Technical Help from the Solid Axle Corvette Club

 

 

To submit a technical question regarding a 1953 to 1962 Corvette, simply email
sacctech@solidaxle.org
. In the subject box you need to put "sacctech/ (your SACC
membership number)".  Example: sacctech/1234
If you are not a member, your question will not be excluded, however, it won't get priority.

Disclaimer:
Our officers enjoy answering questions about your Corvette. Please keep in mind before asking questions that we are not qualified or certified to diagnose problems you may be experiencing with your Corvette. It is recommended that an A.S.E. (Automotive Service Excellence) certified automotive technician diagnose the vehicle for you. This way you get an accurate diagnoses on the problem and an understanding of the parts necessary to remedy the problem

Keep in mind that members enjoy a wealth of information via the SACC quarterly magazine, On Solid Ground.  Here are some of the topics contained in the Spring, 2008 issue:

-Insulate Your Solid Axle

-1956 Goodyear Corvette

-Harmonic Balancer Re-Install

-Six Cylinder Corner

-Will We Need NOS Engine Oil for out Old Cars?

-The Willet Run Garage

-The Marketplace - Member Classifieds

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RE;  Upper fan shroud:
 
  1,  I am the fellow, that wrote in about having difficulty installing the upper fan shroud on by 57.  I did unloosen the core support, the front four body bolts( along the firewall), and finally raised the front end to allow the shroud installation.  I have to raise it about a 1/4 of an inch!!!
 
This action now will lead to some re-shimming of the car as the passenger door now needs adjusting.  I could just adjust the strike, but it appears that a shim or two would be a better choice. 
 
Any thoughts on this?
 
2.  One thing that has :bugged" me for many years:
 
The ribbed rubber strips that are placed on the frame prior to re-installing the body to the frame.
 
Were these glued originally?  They seem to fall out from time to time. 
 
3.  A very common appearance issue, is the front hood alignment with the front of the car.  In some cases the hood hinges don't have enough "play" in them to allow the hood to sit in the opening without the front edge of the hood  being higher than the front edge of the  car.  During the restoration of our 56, we adjusted the hood during body work, and raised, (built up), the front of the body so the hood fit perfectly.  Not wanting to over-restore this 57, we did not do that.  Is there play in the body mounting to the core support, that effectively "raises the front of the slightly?  I seem to recall there is little plat with the existing bolt holes where the front of the body is bolted to the core support.   Am I missing something here?  
 
I appreciate all your help!
 
Best regards!
 
 
Bill

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

The screws attaching the inner fenders to the radiator core support as well as the core support to front crossmember need to be loosened to allow the front end to be raised to match the hood profile.
Re-shimming  the body to the frame to match adjacent body lines should be done before moving the door latch. Rubber pads were attached to the top of the frame with yellow weather strip adhesive.
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

 

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Hello I just came across your website. I just acquired a 60 vette that's got an original automatic trans , Right now the car is stuck in park, I do not see any kind of release button or safety on the shifter set up, Do you know if there is one hidden or something? I just don't want to force it and break something if I don't know where something is, thanks.

 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Allen,
 
You have more issues than one memo can cover.
The most important one is this, go to the local DMV with the widow who you are buying the car from.
Have her request a duplicate title for the car so that you can legally prove ownership by having them transfer title to you. 
Since the car has been tampered with and the VIN tag is missing, it is very possible that whoever stole the hardtop & horn button also may have taken the VIN tag and could well have registered it to another car.  Read Ron Melaragni's  article regarding proving ownership of his 1961 in a recent issue of "On Solid Ground" to help understand what you are facing.

 
Depending on when the 1960 Corvette was built, the VIN tag would either be in the front inside the driver door opening or resistance welded to the top of the steering column just forward of the firewall.
 
I would make sure I could legally own it before spending a lot of $$$$ fixing mechanical issues.
 
Good luck,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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My 62 has the generator on the left side of the engine and the expansion tank on the right side. This appears to be original. I've seen this on other 62's from time to time. Can you tell me what that's all about. Thanks so much

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  I am quite certain that the St.Louis assembly plant did not produce a 1962 Corvette with the generator/expansion tank configuration that you describe on your car.  Probably got somehow rearranged with an engine rebuild or water pump exchange.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Doug Prince is right.  The factory never mounted the generator on the driver's (left) side and the expansion tank on the passenger (right) side in the 1961-2 models.  As explained below, the engine compartment and expansion tank are not configured to do this.
 
The generator mounting bracket is bolted to two bosses on the right side exhaust manifold.  The generator mounted on this bracket is controlled by the voltage regulator mounted on a special shaped pad molded into the right side inner fender fiberglass via a short shielded cable.  To move the generator to the left side, the voltage regulator also has to be moved.  Where do you mount the voltage regulator on the left side?  There is no mounting pad molded into the left side inner fender fiberglass.
 
The radiator expansion tank mounts via a strap type mounting bracket to two bosses on the left side exhaust manifold.  The tank is fed on the bottom elbow via a short 3/4 inch heater hose from a right angle fitting on top of the water pump.  If the tank is moved to the right side, then the elbow fitting on the bottom of the tank will be aimed to the right, away from the water pump.  How do you connect the tank bottom fitting to the water pump top fitting?  Using 2 feet of heater hose?  No.
 

 

Larry Pearson

 

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Could you send me a explosion view of the emerg. Brake handle assy. For 53-54 c1 vette. Please.

Frank

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:

Greetings,
  I could not find an explosion view in my tech books, so here are two photos of my 1954 original parking brake assembly. I hope this helps .
 
Bruce Fuhrman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I have a 1962 327/340hp corvette that I just purchased to be all original with 26k miles. The shocks are the spiral style shocks, is this correct for 1962? Thanks!

Joey
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Spiral shocks were OEM equipment on 1962 Corvettes and will be dated and painted somewhat gloss black.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I have a 1959 Corvette with a non-matching 283 4brl engine (it’s too slow). I want to replace it with the biggest engine I can fit (without modifications) in the engine compartment. I do want an engine with dual-quads as I love the sound and look. How big can/should I go – 327, 350, 427? I want it to sound “hot rod” and be quick but also look somewhat stock. Thanks,  Sean

 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor:  I believe a 383 will fill the bill and remain very stock appearing if you decide to run cast iron cylinder heads. Plenty of torque and horsepower and I would recommend a roller lifter camshaft for even more performance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi, I am replacing my whitewall 670X15 bias ply tires and stock wheels with radial tires and custom wheels for better handling on my 1958 Corvette, and only using the bias ply for show purposes. I have been told I can use Torquethrust 2 -15X 7 wheels and p225r tires. What I have seen on this tech site is that 15X6 wheels and p205r  tires would be the largest  that would fit. I would like your advice please, thanking you in advance , Bill.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Bill, the first thing you need to keep in mind with your 58 is that the front suspension is from a 1949 Chevrolet sedan, and is designed for 5 inch wheels and the 6.70x15 tire.  The optional wheel was 5.5 inches.  This is the same wheel that the 1963-7 Stingrays used, but the center hole has to be enlarged slightly to fit over the larger front hubs that C1's used. These wheels do not have the ability to mount the full wheel covers that the 56-62 models used.  Going to 6 and 7 inch wheels with 205 or 215 radial tires is asking for trouble with fender lip breakage and frequent front wheel bearing failure.  Whatever wheel you try to use, the offset must be the same as the stock wheel, or you will place unacceptable loads on the small outer wheel bearing, resulting in frequent failure of this bearing.  This is the case even if you go to replacement tapered roller bearings in place of the stock ball bearings. Basically, the center line of whatever wheel you end up with must be directly over the large inner wheel bearing, which is designed to carry the weight of the vehicle.  Changing the wheel offset, in or out, causes more of the vehicle weight to be borne by the small outer bearing, which it is not designed to do.  The rear axle bearings on C1's are not affected by changes in wheel offset from stock.
The correct radial tire size for your car is 195 75R15.  This size is not common, but it is the only size that works properly on 5 and 5.5 inch wheels.  The 205 and 215 sizes require 6 inch rims to work properly, and these heavy tires cause a high unsprung weight, resulting in a harsh ride.
I will try to forward to you a lengthly analysis on C1 tires I wrote just yesterday.  If you want awsome handling and super wide tires on your ride, sell your 58 and buy a new C7.
 
Larry Pearson

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The Torquethrust Wheels and tires will fit and you will love the look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hello I just bought a 1962 corvette, it started for me and ran... As soon as I touched the button on the knob, on the left of steering wheel under the temp gauge, the car died. I can't jump it or start it now ... I was wondering what that button did??? If u can help I'd be greatly appreciated thx...Justin

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:   It is the windshield washer system vacuum button that when pushed operated the windshield washer water to spray and also activated the windshield wipers.  It is quite possible that a prior owner has made this button into a “kill switch” for the engines ignition system.  Verification should be quite easy to do.

 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Advisor:  The aluminum button in the center of the windshield wiper knob causes the windshield washer to activate and the windshield wiper motor to activate through a vacuum controlled timer mounted on top of the windshield wiper motor. If you pushed the button and the engine died, I suspect that a defective wiper motor grounded out the ignition at the ballast resistor, causing the engine to die. This may have caused a fuse to blow.
The windshield wiper motor gets its power from the same brown 18-gauge wire that connects to the ignition switch and powers the car's ignition through the ballast resistor located next to the wiper motor. They tie together through a screw connection on one end of the ballast resistor. First, make sure that the screw connection is tight. If it is, loosten the screw and remove the wire going to the wiper motor. Your car should now start and run. If it doesn't, check out the condition of the terminal on the end of the brown wire and make sure that 12 volts appears here when the ignition is turned on. Maybe the wire is broken at the terminal connection. I always felt that 18 gauge is too small for this much of a load with the wiper motor running in addition to the ignition load. Again, check for a blown fuse.
Good luck with this.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi

I have a WCFB Carter carb that has been giving me fits.
I had it to National Carb twice and after $200 I still have the same
problem, does not feed enough fuel to get over 48 MPH
I have a steady stream of fuel from the third fuel pump,
gives me a quart in 40 seconds @ 5 lbs pressure.
I do not need to restore this carb just fix it....do you have
a reliable source for this type of repair
Thanks
Larry
Okeechobee FL

From Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 
Larry,
 
I have never owned a dual carb set-up but the front carb is the primary and as such, my guess is that your low speed issues would be similar to the operation of the 1X4 Carter WCFB.
 
I had a similar issue with my 230 HP many years ago that turned out to be the accelerator pump in the front of the carb that wasn't lifting the metering rods. No matter how I feathered the gas pedal it wouldn't go over 45 MPH.
The metering rods & their lift linkage were sticking in a rebuilt carb that sat too long.
Cleaning the rods & an accelerator pump kit took care of the issue.
 
Look into joining the Sunshine State Chapte

r and talk to them about references to local shops who may specialize in adjusting & synchronizing dual quads.

 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC 

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I have purchased a 1959 corvette and the speedometer does not work at this time.  The odometer continue to register mileage but the speedometer needle does not move.  Are there some tricks that I can try before removing the speedometer and having it gone through.  I would love not to have to remove the dash and take the speedometer out.  Let me know if you have any ideas.   Kevin

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Other than a little Voodoo there is nothing that I can think of short of pulling the instrument housing out and having the speedometer rebuilt and you should have the tachometer rebuilt at the same time.  Good luck with your project as working upside down is not much fun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yesterday the handle on my hood release cable pulled off. Is there a way to put it back on, in other words how is it attached to the cable? I tried to screw it back on but it pulled back off. Any information on this is much appreciated. I do not want to buy a new repro assembly as I hear they are junk made in China.

Tom

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Tom,
 
I had the same thing happen to my car.
Use a small pair of vice grips as an emergency release handle to get the hood up.
Your hood release handle was manufactured as die-cast over a knurled rod so you have a couple choices.
 
1) Push the handle back on using some of the newer two stage plastic weld adhesives on the market.
    Hold the shaft in the handle tightly in place while the adhesive cures.
    Drill a cross-hole as small as possible thru the handle & shaft, press a brad/nail into the hole, snip
    the sharp end off about 1/16 in and peen as a rivet.
Or
 
2) Buy the "correct" replacement that costs $110 instead of $80 for the cheap version.
    Check out Corvette Central P/N 461131 or Paragon Reproductions P/N 13828.
    Both are GM P/N 1990947
 
If you opt for the new cable, make sure you bend the cable wire ends to 30-40 degree angle just past the screw clamps after they are adjusted & tightened . This keeps the clamp from falling off, leaving you unable to open the hood without breaking something.
  
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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DEAR SIRS,

COULD YOU TELL ME THE CORRECT HEAD BOLT MARKING ON A 1962 CORVETTE 327??? THANKS,

MIKE

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Mike,
 
1959-1962 head bolts had a double circle headmark.
Check out Paragon Reproduction P/N 13661K.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi,

 My hood front pass side how do I adjust the latch it pops up driving?

Bob

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  When my '54 had the same issue, I noted that the weld at the base of the post to the flange had some play. I had a welder tac weld it in 4 places and it made it rigid and it stayed down. Also, shut down from center, not the side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi
I have a 62 Corvette with a wiring problem. If my light switch is turned to illuminate the dash lights but not so far as to turn on the interior light then the dash lights stay on when the key is off and that draws down the battery. Turning the dimmer light switch completely clockwise (dash lights off) saves the battery. I tried a new switch but that did not fix the problem. I also checked the wiring diagram in my 62 Service Guide and the color codes/ connections appear correct. I saw however that the original and replacement light switch each have 8 possible connection positions but the car has only seven wires (also shown on the wiring diagram). Any suggestions

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Alan,
 
As I understand the function of the light switch,
 
With the knob pushed all the way in, only the courtesy light should turn on after the knob is rotated past the detent. Dash light dimmer function should be inactive because they should not be illuminated.
 
With the knob/shaft pulled out to the first detent position, the dash lights, parking lights , license plate light & tail lights should be on and then the dash light dimmer function should be active.
Rotating the knob should still activate the courtesy light.
 
With the knob/shaft pulled to the second detent position, head lights should be on, parking lights off, dash lights, license plate light & tail lights should be on, dash light dimmer function active.
Rotating the knob should still activate the courtesy light.

 
The light switch function should be independent of the ignition, whether on or off.
 
Operation other than what I have described would indicate to me that either the headlight switch is defective or that something is mis-wired.
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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I am trying to replace the trunk springs on my 58 to solve the sagging trunk lid issue but I can not figure how to remove them. After removing the bottom nut the lid can not be raised enough to remove the spring, is there a way to remove the top nut and would that help to remove the spring ?

Thanks,
Mike
 

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Yes, cut a slot in flat washers as wide as the trunk spring rods. It will not be real easy, but use a large flat blade screw driver and lift the spring up. Insert a washer, one at a time. This will add tension or strength to the weaken springs. Probably 5 washers to start with. Too many will not allow the trunk lid to close (the spring will not have enough travel to collapse). To my knowledge, currently no one is producing a reproduction spring with enough strength to hold the lid up. It is a larger problem for '58 owners because of the boat straps on the trunk lid.

Max Brockhouse SACC President

 

 

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I have a 61 vette the motor was rebuilt and a 3/4 cam installed 20 years ago. when this was done an edlebrock intake and a holley 650 carb was installed . the air cleaner , the ingintion shield and the carb and intake were all thrown away.
Motor was built J140 car was built oct 16th 1960. Ok do you know if original ingnition shielding and air filter will fit?
they also changed out the powerglide for a 3 speed 400 but i have the power glide but it needs rebuilt. any idea of what a rebuilt one cost and is mine worth anything as a core or for rebuilding?
thanks
Bud
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The factory air cleaner will not fit on a Holly carburetor….the factory shielding will still fit but I assume that it also has all been thrown away. 1961 was the last year for the cast iron Powerglide transmission. Unless you really, really want to go back to the Powerglide I would recommend that you stick with the current transmission as it is more efficient and less costly to rebuild if need be. Quality transmission rebuilders for the old cast iron Powerglide transmissions are few and far between. Good luck with your project.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I have a friend thinking of purchasing a 1958 Vette. The car is said to be an original Fuel Injected car but is now carburated. The original fuel injection is not available so he would like to know how he can tell if the car is truely an original Fuel Injected car. Someone told me long ago that there a mounting hole, for fuel injected cars only, inside the engine compartment, left inner fender that was for the fuel injection air cleaner. Is that true and is there other ways to identify a fuel injected car?
Also, can you tell me what the tachometer redline should be for all 1958 engine options?
I will be joining the Solid Axle Club as I have a 1959 and a 1962 Corvette and this forum is just what I need.
Thanks,
Dan

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Dan,
Simple questions, complex answers.
All 1958 Corvettes had either 5500 or 6500 RPM redline depending on HP.

5500 RPM tachometer was used for 230 HP base engine & 250 HP fuel injected. Both of these would have been generator drive tachometers.

A 6500 RPM tachometer w/ generator drive would have been used in the 270 HP.

The 6500 RPM tachometer w/ distributor drive was used on 290 HP fuel injected engines.

So, back to your first question, how do you tell if it was really a FI car?
There were 504 cars w/ 250 HP FI & 1007 cars with 290 HP FI and although both are fuel injected,
the distributors, generators and routing of the tachometer cables were different.
Tachometer routing for the 290 HP required a special hole thru the firewall ~halfway between the distributor & the steering column.

In addition to the 2 air cleaner mounting holes (w/ riveted support bracket behind), due to access issues, the WSW reservoir was moved from driver side to the passenger side area just forward of the battery. There should also be screw holes in the left inner fender for attachment of the air cleaner inlet air hose straps.

Good luck to your friend,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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to sacctech


Must the canvas straps around the axle of a 1962 Corvette be in place for shipping on a follow along trailor?

Thank you

Larry

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The canvass straps that you refer to on this 1962 are rebound straps to control the car if it were to go over a significant bump in the road and keeps the rear tires in contact with the road. They have nothing to do with the chains that you refer to as these are in place to keep the car intact with the trailer as it is being towed down the road.

C1s are transported all over the country with the rebound straps in place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi,

Can you help with the following

1. Can you recommend tires for this car, with standard 5" rims and body height.
Are there well regarded options for bias ply 670x15 and radials P205/75R15 that you could recommend. Would like to avoid rubbing under fenders

2. For international membership, is it possible to have a reduced annual fee if the magazine is received by email rather than post.

Thank you

Warren from New Zealand

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Warren,

You can put Coker American Classic 205-75R15 tires on your stock rims all the way around to get wider tires, radial performance and a stock appearance all in the same package w/o affecting your speedometer. That's what I would recommend.
They are available from Corvette Central as well as other outlets.

If you really want bias-ply tires, Corvette Central also sells reproduction Firestone, BF Goodrich & US Royal 6.70-15 tires that would be correct for your 1959. (Goodyear bias-ply tires were not available on Corvette until 1961). Just keep in mind that bias-ply tires are more for looks than for driving.

Regarding the overseas dues cost & e-mail of the quarterly club magazine "On Solid Ground", that is above my pay grade but those responsible are aware of your question.

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

Website editor's note:  The club's award winning quarterly magazine is in print form only.

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  P205/75R15s are perfect for your application which give you the correct ride height….depending on your preference there are many different manufacturers with equally different sidewall appearances.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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What are the production quantities for each body color for 1958 Corvettes?
How many 290hp were made?

thanks,

Bob

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Bob,

The answer to your questions & more is available in "Corvette Black Book" by author Mike Antonick.
Every Corvette owner needs one. It is updated yearly & can be purchased from any of the major Corvette parts vendors.

Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

 

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Hi,
 
I recently purchased the captioned car which is a Top Flight body off restored car.  I have not yet joined your club, but seriously looking into it.  This is Corvette #9 for me, but my first C1....I love it! 
 
My question is with respect to the soft top.  I live in Florida and my vehicle is always parked in the garage.  I keep the soft top securely fastened with both the back latches and front latches, but is it necessary to keep the back latches secured while parked?  When I go for my weekly ten mile drive through the country, I always have the soft top lowered to enjoy the ride.  I want to ensure that I do things correct so any assistance that you can provide would be very much appreciated.  I also heard something about rolling up a towel and putting it into the crease of the plastic window when I lower the top as not to damage the window...is this true or just a myth?
 
Thanks again,
 
Gordon

From: Brad Bean,  Vice President of SACC:  I too live in FL and like to take drives, esp. in the spring and fall. If your top is really taut, some owners like to undo the rear latches, when the car is garaged, to reduce chances of separating at the seams. However, if the top is not too tight and the garage is not temperature controlled, I like to keep the rear latches fastened so the vinyl remains taut and wrinkle free.

No myth regarding the rolled up towel in the crease of the rear window, when in the down position. The clear plastic scratches easily and this helps to minimize the wear. It also keeps the pointed stainless trim tips from penetrating the top when folded. Word of caution... make sure towel is not too thick as to cause stress on the metal frame joints; ovet time this could bend the frame.

I encourage you to join both SACC & the Sunshine State chapter of SACC. Most of these people have forgotten more about these cars than I will ever know.

Enjoy your new purchase!

Brad Bean

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Would you know where I might buy a Hardtop shipping box. I would appreciate any info you have.
Thank You
Lee

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Lee,
I would contact http://www.thehardtopshop.com/ or call them at 724-457-0680 for information on the size box required to ship a hardtop. After they fix them, they then ship them all over the USA.

Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
 

 

 

 

 

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President: 

Same holds true for "The Glassworks" in the Pittsburg, PA area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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 Two more simple questions: it is a fuelie car, but has carb, has a dual point distro not a fuelie one but from what i was told it is part of a GM kit that folks got back in the day to retro the fuel since no one knew how to setup for the changing season here in the east coast. I pulled the wires, they were clear and brittle and can see they were correct lengths and all, but Igot some Napa ones,  and well no power now, they were for sure solid copper wires.   Any ideas where to get the correct ones for a 60 fuel dual point setup?
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Adviser:  Correct length and style of spark plug wires are readily available from Paragon Corvette Reproductions or Corvette Central. These wire sets are manufactured by Electric Limited. 1960 Corvette spark plug wires were not dated. Fuel injected and carburetor Corvettes all used the same spark plug wires.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Wayne,
If you really have a Cascade Green 1960 big brake fuelly, please be very careful that you don't damage it or change anything until you have it professionally appraised.

As for spark plug wires for it, all 1960 Corvettes used the same wires regardless of horsepower.
They should be available from any of the major Corvette parts vendors to get GM Restoration Parts.

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

 

 

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How does one remove the 3 side spears. also does anyone know if any of the backer place for all three, the visible one was ever chrome? I have a set on know that are painted over and well they are chrome underneath...

Looks like the wheel well cover may need to be unbolted and rich up in there? I can see the 3 long end nuts....

thank you
Wayne

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Wayne,

If you are referring to the three horizontal side spears in the cove, the speed nuts that fasten them are located behind the kick panels inside the car.
What you are seeing behind the splash pan are the speed nuts that fasten the crossed-flag emblems.

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

 

 

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Missing Cover: I'm doing my first oil change on my recently acquired 1959 and upon removal of the oil filter I noticed there is no cover over the flywheel (picture attached). This appears to be the "flywheel housing extension". Are these known to fall off? I'm concerned that I may have driven without this in place and allowed debris to enter the housing. What would you recommend I should do to be sure I won't damage anything if I just replace the cover? Can you point me to the right size bolts for installing a new one and any other tips you might want to add such as proper seals, gaskets etc.? Thanks!
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Adviser:  No gaskets are required and the piece is available from any of the large restoration stores. You will have to remove the starter as this shield gets sandwiched between the starter housing and the bell housing. It is attached by four ¼ x 20 recessed hex head bolts with a captured external lock washer. These are the same style bolts that attach the oil pan to the engine and also available from reproduction sources. The picture indicates that your Corvette’s engine oil filter has been converted to a “spin on style.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hello,

I'm putting a little '60 Vette back together and I was installin a new throwout bearing tonight and couldn't get the fork back on right. Is there a trick to it. The fork doesn't have enough play to slip past the rounded knob that the clip is supposed to hold on to.   Randy

 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:  Randy,

How did you get the clutch fork out ?? Whatever you did, try the reverse on re-assembly.

If that doesn't work, try backing the clutch fork pivot ball stud out of the bell housing to see if it will give you the clearance to install the fork, then re-torque. Otherwise, .............

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi, I own an original '67 big block that I have owned since I got out of high school in 1970, however my problem is with my wife's 1960, which she drives regularly in the summer. I gave her the car as a wedding gift 33 years ago.
It is a 3 speed.
Problem was last year or so the clutch wasn't disengaging properly, and you would get grinding going first to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. The pedal was at the top and no adjustment left.
I put in a new clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing, which were all the same size as the ones i replaced, unfortunately I can't get enough adjustment.
If I adjust the clutch rod so I get pedal then the throw out bearing rests right on the pressure plate( I know this is a no no), if I adjust so bearing is off the pressure plate I don't get enough clutch to shift properly. The grommet where the pedal rod hooks up was worn out so I turned down an insert to tighten this area up, it didn't seem like this grommet could add that much to the clutch adjustment.
The pedal/clutch is all the way at the end of the pedal.
 Obviously something is wrong but I don't know what.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks:

Paul
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Paul,
If your wife has been driving this car summers for 33 years, take another good look at the wear & elongated holes In all the clutch linkages. 
Inspect the clutch fork ball in the bell housing, the clutch fork where it contacts the ball, the holes where the push rod attaches to the fork, the pin hole in the push rod, the push rod pin and both pivot balls for the Z bracket. While you are giving it the attention it needs, you might want to add a grease fitting to the Z bracket tube and some felt packing around the pivot balls to keep the grease contained. 
 
Taking all the slack out of the system and proper lubrication should increase the adjustment available. 
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC


**********

Looking for info on what was the power train that came with my '60.
ref:Serial #100. I know is was a 283, but at what level?
The 1st owner, I have His name (*), bought the Vette 24 Dec. 1959.
Nice Christmas gift for someone !!

Also would like to find out how many owned My Vette before Me.
I may be the 4th ?
 JOHN
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter: 

John,
As one of our newest members, welcome to SACC.
 
VIN #00867S100100 tells us nothing except that it is the 100th 1960 Corvette built in St Louis.
Any additional information has to be determined from studying the car itself.
 
You have to look for clues as to which RPO's were installed in the car originally.
Things like which tachometer, WSW reservoir location, mounting holes under the hood with nothing attached, generator, starter & distributor P/N's.
Your car is early enough that it should have a copper/brass radiator regardless of engine option but it may have a 4 blade fan or a 5 blade clutched fan. 
They are all important clues as to the original engine, if it was replaced.
If it is original, the engine # will tell you what it is.
 
Regarding previous owners, check with your state DMV.
In Michigan, they will check the records for $15-$20 a name.
 
Good luck with your search,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

**********

How to install speedometer cable in 1959 corvette . Thank you

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Ron,
 
I'm going to make an assumption here that you already disconnected the transmission end of the speedometer cable casing and unsuccessfully tried to pull the cable out.
There is a collar around the cable in the small ferrule at the end attached to the speedometer that keeps the cable properly located in the cable housing.
To replace the cable, disconnect the small ferrule from the back of the speedometer, note/document how the speedometer cable assembly is routed under the instrument cluster and thru the firewall, then pull it out. SAVE THE GROMMET, you may need it later.
Also note the cable assembly routing from the firewall down to the transmission, then remove it.
 
Replace it with the correct length replacement assembly that can be purchased from most Corvette parts vendors. '59s are steel case with different lengths depending on whether the car has 3 speed,
4 speed T-10, 4 speed Muncie, or Powerglide transmission.
Be sure the new cable is properly lubed.
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

Thanks , but my problem is that I can't get my hand under the dash to disconnect the speedometer cable .

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Ron,
 
Sure you (or your mechanic) can.
Get a light, lay on your back with your head directly under the instrument cluster and look for the access that allows your fingers to turn the knurled ferrule nut.
You may have to push some wiring out of the way but I've done it dozens of times since 1968.
Lay a piece of cardboard over the lower seat frame so you don't tear your shirt or your back on the seat track attachment screw sticking up out of the frame.
 
Good luck.
Bill Huffman  
 

 

 

**********

Dear Sir,

Firstly I would like to confirm my desire to become a member of the solid axle corvette club and would like to know how I can do this.

 I am from western Australia and have just stumbled across the club in conversation with someone.

I have 4 corvettes, including a 1960 270HP corvette and would like to know which configuration my aluminium tank top radiator would have come in to confirm my car is correct. My Vin number is 00867S101617 and the engine number is dated F1208CU, which is December, so I am assuming my car is an early car produced in around January 1960? Hoping you can confirm this as well.

I am wondering if my car would have had the ribbed tank top with the sight hole or if it would have had the flat tank top with no sight hole. I would like to get confirmation so I can ensure this is correct as the car has been subject to a body off restoration and is in extremely nice condition. It may be that both types may have been in use at this time, but that is not clearly documented anywhere I have tried to find this information.

I am planning a holiday to the USA and need to place my order by tomorrow, so if I can get a response to this query, it would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks in advance for your help.

 John

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

John,
 
Welcome to the Solid Axle Corvette Club.
Joining is as easy as clicking on the Membership & Application link (the 4th link above Technical Help), filling it out and sending it and a check to the address noted.

Your engine number indicated a 270 HP Corvette engine assembled in Flint on 8 Dec 1959.
It must have been built early and shipped fast because VIN # 00867S101617 is a car built in St Louis early in the second week of December. First Dec build was #1454 and last was #2059.
 
I can't answer your question regarding the tank top.
Both my '60s are early & both have copper/brass radiators.
However, because of where it is located and since there are not many old Corvettes in Australia, unless you imported it recently, I would assume that if it fits and appears original, it probably is.
The November/December/January time period had several changes going on.
   Transition from all copper to Copper or aluminum, based on application.
   Transition of VIN plate from driver door jam to steering column.
   Transition from engine number like yours to one incorporating the last digits of VIN #. 
As a consequence, stuff happened.
 
Good luck with your restoration,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC 

**********

Hi,

 I have a 1954 corvette in need of a top is pinpoint vinyle the correct type?

 Thanks,

Bob

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

Hi Bob,
   No, the correct top is beige canvas. It can be found and purchased in Texas at  alknochinteriors.com

 

Bruce Fuhrman 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

I have a 1960 corvette but it has 1961 sill plates.  I am going to install the correct sill plates but the old holes for the small step plate are not visible.  How do I correctly position the small step sill plate since no old holes are visible?  Woodge

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Woodge,
 
Lift & remove the seat cushions and the seat backs from the seat frames and set them aside.
That will give you access to the underside of where the small dimpled step plates are mounted.
Depending how the holes were filled, you may find hardened filler stalactites hanging down below the surface. This is exactly the same thing you would be looking for to find cove moulding holes that somebody had filled in on the door.
You may be able to use the seat frame a fulcrum to force the filler up out of the filled holes in the fiberglass. Or, you may have to remove the seat frame to get better access.   
The filler doesn't have to be pushed up out of the holes, just enough to show where they are located.
Then use a really small diameter punch, so you don't enlarge the holes, to drive the filler down thru.
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

Good Morning Sirs: My 1961 is being repainted following an accident and the painter wants to know if the inside of the trunk was originally black, or speckled. Could you please advise if it was speckled, was it light, medium or dark grey and if possible what the paint code was. Feel free to contact me with any questions you may have or to let me know how I may be of service. I look forward to hearing from you.
Regards, David

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Tech Advisor:  David

All 1961 Corvette trunks ( and the trunk lid bottom as well as the convertible top well and deck lid bottom) were painted body color. Note that the paint in these areas was not as glossy as the body because the factory prep was not very good nor were these areas polished out.

Chip Werstein

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hello
Can the radiator in a 1962 Corvette be removed without removing the fan shroud?
Thank you for any help you can give me.
Best regards,
Bob

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor: 

Bob,
 
In my experience, the radiator can not be removed without removing the fan shroud because it is almost impossible to access the lower hose for removal ( and re installation) from the radiator. In addition, the outlet at the bottom of the radiator will not clear the right lower portion of the shroud unless you modify/cut it. I always take the hood off too just to make access easier.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

**********

I just recently found your site and posted a question which you answered in just one day.  The solution offered did the trick. I wanted to say thanks and let you know I have sent my membership app in.  Honest the check is in the mail!
I now have another question which I would like some help on.  The 62 vett that I own, I believe it to be a numbers matched car, iIt still has the serial number plat riveted to the column , it matches the block number along with the transmission number etc, etc. My problem is I just can’t find out much about the car.  I purchased it about 21 years ago while in California from a very well known vet. dealer (they are still in business) with the original black plates on it.  I had it shipped back east and at the time was to ignorant to ask for any documentation, I just wanted to get it back and drive it.  I would like to learn more about it but don’t really know where to start to do my home work.  The serial number is 20867S101111.

Any suggestions on how to go about finding more about the car?
Curious George


PS Thanks to all who contribute to this site. You are a wonderful resource .
 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

George,
 
Since I live in California I will try to answer your question. California DMV keeps records on cars for only about 3 years after they are no longer currently registered in Ca. So unless your car is still registered in Ca. on the black plates DMV will be no help.......and even if it was the records would probably show only your name going back a few years.
 
I would suggest contacting the dealer .......they may be able to help. Also, I would place ads in the NCRS Driveline, On Solid Ground and the S. California SACC newsletter The Solid Scoop under info wanted with a good description of the car and details of the purchase. It has only been 21 years........someone is likely to remember your car.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

**********

Hi ,
 
 Is the tach cable for a 1961 black or grey? All the reproduction suppliers list it as being grey. All the pictures I've seen of original engine compartments the cable sure looks like it's black.
 
My rear axle housing appears to be original (has mounts for strut rods, etc.). The casting numbers are L 561, 3725899, GM with a T over a 2. The casting number seems to be correct, it is non-posi. The date appears to be December 5th, 1961. My car is a late 61, 110063. The stamped code looks like BB1221. The first B is very faint, but the second B is very legible. The 1221 I believe is December 21st. But the BB doesn't seem close to any axle codes for 61s or 62s. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Thanks, Mike

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Mike,
 
According to the NCRS 1961-62 judging manual, all 61 tach cables for non FI motors were black vinyl covered and driven off the generator.. FI tach cables were steel cased and driven off the distributor.
 
The read end you have is not original to your car. Based on your info, it came from a 1961 passenger car. BB indicates V8, 3 speed or 6 cyl, powerglide...........3.36 ratio, non posi.
 
Regarding the dates on the rear end......your 61 was built on June 28 so the casting date should be May or early June 1961 with an assembly date in the first half of June. Of course there are exceptions to this, but if you look for a correctly dated rear end, this is a good guideline to follow.
 

 

**********

I have a 59 all original Vet but I am not sure where to look
for the engine number,  I have manifold numbers but I do not
think they have a value.
Thanks
Larry

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Larry,
 
The engine number should be F(Flint) Mo & Day of assembly (ex. 1023 for Oct 23) plus two letter suffix (CQ,CR,CS,CT,CU, DG) depending on HP & transmission option.
Corvettes engines were not stamped with the VIN number until mid-1960 model year.
 
This number can be found on the stamp pad at the front of the engine just forward of the passenger side head. It may be hidden under the fuel pump to carburetor fuel line.
 
The intake part number & date code are important if your car is really "original".
The part number should match the HP application noted in the engine code and the casting date code (A thru L for Jan-Dec and numerical date, 1-31) must pre-date the car manufacturing date.
 
 
Good luck with your investigation,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC 

**********

I have a 1960 with dual quads, 245 Hp engine.  I bought it about 7 years ago and I do not know the history of the car.  Ever since I purchased the car it would overheat when I drove it with external temps much above 85 degrees.  Below that external temperature the engine temp would run above 180 degrees, probably 195 or so.  On warm days I can let it idle in the driveway and the engine temp will continue to climb.   I checked all of the usual things, fluid levels, coolant mix, I flushed the system, did a pressure check, changed the thermostat and nothing seems to help.  I checked the sender and temp gauge with my IR temp meter and they appear to be accurate.  Also, you can watch the temperature gauge and it will climb to 180 degrees (the temp of the thermostat) and it will hold there for a while and then it will begin to slowly climb.  I know that it is either an air flow or a water flow problem. 

 The water pump had a slight leak, so I decided to change that.  I am in the process of buying a matching numbers water pump but there is an issue there.  The pump that I took off was not a matching numbers pump, it was an aftermarket pump and it had been rebuilt.  On that pump, the distance from the pulley hub flange to the mounting surface of the pump was 5 5/8 inches.  The matching numbers pump that I received had a dimension of 5 ¾ inches, so the pulleys did not line up.  I did a little research and from what I can find, this dimension should be 5 5/8 like the one that I took off.  Is this correct?

 I am also addressing the air flow issue as well.  I read in the Corvette forums that overheating is a common problem.  Some people have improved it by eliminating the gaps between the radiator and fan shroud.  I have sealed that up by flattening a length of 5/8 inch heater hose and pushing it in the gap between the shroud and the radiator (this actually looks like it belongs there) and I have blocked off the square hole on the lower right fan shroud.  Now more of the air that the fan draws should flow through the radiator.  I am still waiting for the water pump before I can tell if I have improved the situation.

 I am thinking of the next step if this does not solve the problem.  This engine has the 4 blade fan directly mounted to the water pump pulley.  I noticed that there are two versions of the 4 blade fan, one up to ’57 and one after ’57.  I am not sure which one I have, how can I tell which one I have and what is the difference between these two?  Would this be part of the problem if I had the wrong one?  Should I consider switching to the 5 blade fan with the fan clutch?

 Thanks for any help that you can provide.

 Don

There is one more question that I forgot to ask that I hope you can pass along.  My car has the “conventional” copper brass radiator like the one shown below.  I am finding conflicting  information with regards to what radiator cap should be used, a 7 Lb. or 13 Lb.  The car came with a 7 Lb. cap, changing to the 13 Lb. cap did not change the overheating problem.

 Thanks,

Don

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Don,
It's good that you asked the second question because that would have been my first question back to you.  1960's came with both copper & aluminum.
Early ones appear to be all copper while later ones had copper for 230 HP base engine & aluminum w/ overflow tank for 245, 270 & 290 HP engines.
 
Copper radiator should have the 7 psi cap and all engines had a 170 degree thermostat.
The 13 psi cap would cause the engine to run a little warmer due to the pressure differential.
 
The 230 HP base engine had a 4 blade fan that was riveted.
The 245, 270 & 290 HP engines had 5 blade clutched fans.
 
Regarding the correct length for the water pump shaft, I would address that question to either
John Pirkle at Masters City Corvette Parts in Augusta, GA or Ron Burke at ChevyCool in Scottsdale, AZ.
That's what they do for a living and they both do it well.
 
Regarding the 5/8 hose between radiator & shroud, a properly installed shroud shouldn't  have that much clearance. However, in early Dec 1959 , at approx. VIN #1600, they added weather strip to the front underside of the hood to seal off airflow between the hood & the radiator. Adding that (and all the other radiator seals that are supposed to be there) would certainly help.
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC 

 

**********

Hi
I have a 62 corvette with a rear light problem. Changing the signal light position turns on and off the brake lights when I hold the brake down. I can find a position about mid way between up and down on the turn signal when the brake lights work and another slightly up or down where just the drivers side works. When either signal side is active the brake on that side is off (not sure if that is the way it was designed to work). I have done the following without success : replaced the rear wiring harness, replaced the turn signal harness (twice), ran separate ground wire for the rear harness,and ran a separated fuel tank ground wire. I only succeeded in stopping my fuel Gage movement when the lights were activated.

 Thanks for your Help

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  This is a frequent problem with C1 Corvettes although most of my experience has been with 58-62s.  The first area of concern is usually the turn signal harness as all electrical to the rear of the car runs through this switch with the exception of the gas tank sender.  You have an all too typical grounding problem since you have already replaced the turn signal switch and the rear harness.  Your problem probably lies with the rear tail light socket to housing ground as this connection becomes corroded overtime.  I drill a very small hole between the tail light housing where it meets the tail light socket and screw in a small sheet metal screw between the two.  This will create a proper ground for the tail light housing and the tail light socket.  Since we are dealing with a fiberglass car grounds are very important for proper electrical function.  Good luck with this problem but this should solve it for you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Alan,
 
Although grounding could be a problem, my guess is that your canceling cam assembly is worn out ( you did not indicate that you replaced it) and/or your turn signal cup is loose.
 
Chip Werstein 

 

 

 

 

**********

I think I need to rebuild my steering box.

My first concern is what are the steps I need to take to remove the steering box?

 

Jack

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  All C1 owners should a have copy of the Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12 on hand at all times.  Chapter 9 gives a very complete detail of servicing the C1 steering box and how to remove and install the unit.  Good luck with this project as all the rebuild components are available from the Corvette reproduction parts suppliers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hello gentlemen!                                                                                     5/15/14
 
I have a 57 Corvette.  I have owned it since 1977!  The fan should was missing so I ordered one from Paragon.
It will not install properly.  When you view the photos in Nolan Adams' Corvette Restoration book, , it is noted that the upper shroud was installed to the lower shroud before the body drop.
 
This replacement shroud will not install as it should.  So............my question is this:  Should I loosen all the body bolts again to raise the car up enough so that the upper shroud bolts correctly to the core support, or am I missing something?  I hate to re shim the whole car again, just to get the upper shroud to fit.
 
Thanks for all your help!!!
 
 
Bill

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Bill,
 
If I understand your question correctly, you bought a 20 year old previously wrecked 1957 Corvette that didn't have a fan shroud assembly but was "drivable". 30 some years later you decided to do a frame off restoration.   The body is now re-bolted tightly to the frame and in trying to complete the car, the fan shroud won't bolt up.
 
Simple question, complicated answer.
 
The body from firewall rearward is supported by the frame.
Shimming is to minimize body twist so the doors, deck lid & trunk are supported and fit correctly.
 
The body from firewall forward is supported by the radiator support which is supported by the front crossmember. The fan shroud actually defines the angle between the radiator support and the front horns of the frame.
 
The hood hinges attach directly to the radiator support. That, within the hinges adjustment limits, 
determines the hood height & position. The front end can be raised or lowered to match the body height to the front of the hood. 
 
If the doors, deck lid and trunk open & close properly and the edges are uniform, leave the body bolts/shims as is.  If not, loosen them for re-shimming later.
 
Remove the hood.
 
Loosen the two radiator support to front crossmember bolts.
 
Loosen the radiator support to inner fender bolts on each side.
  (They should have a large fender washer under the bolt head)
 
Loosely attach all the fan shroud attachment hardware.
 
After all the fasteners are installed,
start re-assembly by tightening the fan shroud to both the frame & radiator support.
Reattach the hood.
Raise the front end to match the hood and re-tighten the inner fender attaching bolts.
 
Retighten the radiator support to front crossmember bolts.
(NOTE- some re-shimming may be required between radiator support & front crossmember) 
 
If it still won't line up, there may be frame distortion from a previous accident that never got fixed.
It's possible that's why your car didn't have a fan shroud when you bought it.
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

Hi I was wondering if you happen to know where I can get a gasket rebuild kit for the original 3 speed transmission that came with a 1961 base model (230hp). I found the rebuild kits for the 4 speed but not for the 3 speed. Thank you!

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Ryan,

If you haven't already done so, call (instead of looking in the catalog) the usual Corvette parts vendors and ask for a Saginaw 3 speed manual rebuild kit. Low volume items are not always in the catalog.

If Corvette Central, Paragon Reproductions, Chicago Corvette or 4 Speeds by Darrell in Vermillion, IL can't get you one, try a local  transmission repair shop or Chevy dealer. If you brought it in for repair, they would find you one.

The question I have for you is, do you really drive a car with a non-synchromesh 1st gear?  The reason parts are hard to find is that most owners convert them to 4 speed for drivability. Unless you have an absolutely original museum car, value should not be adversely affected by making it easier to drive.

Good luck in your search,                                                                                                                            Bill Huffman,                                                                                                                                                  President,  Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

Hello:

I am trying to replace the front brake drums on my 58, but they will not separate from the hub. The corvette servicing guide says the drum is held to the hub by three rivets which must be removed to replace the drum. Are these rivets available and if not where would I go to have them replaced?

Thanks
Mike
 

From:  Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Mike,
 
Except for maybe "proving originality" the rivets aren't needed at all.
5 studs & lug nuts hold the drum & hub assembly together.
Not replacing the rivets will have no effect on your car's drivability.
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

 

**********

Dear SACC,

If the assembly plate is missing to install restored original horns, does it require removing the hood and radiator to access this area to rivet on the assembly plate to the inner skirt fiberglass underbody?

And if I do not want to work with my head upside down, I would also need to remove the motor?

Thank you,

Eric

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Tech Advisor:  While no job is impossible it is my opinion that life will be much better for you to remove the hood for easier access to your particular problem as space before the radiator is very limited.  Good luck with this impending task at hand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Here is the car-1962 was originally a carb car-converted to fuelie in 1987
The injection is a 1961-runs like a top .My question is what is the solenoid on the front of the engine
it has a vacuum line connected to the cranking sensor and vacuum advance. The car starts -will not idle
runs rich. I discounted that solenoid car runs like a top.I know that this is a modification someone placed there.
Is it needed? Should I get rid of it? replace it ? or forget it and drive the car. I think it is connected to a battery cut off
installed as part of an old pager alert security system. The Gentleman I purchased the car from owned it for 27 years
and is just not a mechanic and can not give me any information. The car originally came from California. The car is really
a driver for me-and my hope is it remains in my family for many years. A old love affair and distant dream now my reality
                Any help will  be great I will send pics.
                     John

 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor:  The “Achilles Heel” for Rochester fuel injection units from 1958-1963 was the cold start cranking signal valve.  When this valve would fail and not close the fuel injection unit would run extremely rich and not idle.  This valve is currently available either brand new or rebuilt from Jim Thorpe, 563-359-7863 and sells for around $140.00.  This valve is also available from other fuel injection parts suppliers.  The purpose of this valve was to supply cranking engine manifold vacuum to the main control diaphragm for starting only.  As soon as the engine started and manifold vacuum to the valve was 3 inches or more it was to have closed off.  Failure to close itself off would cause over rich conditions and no idle quality.  If your engine will cold start without the need for the valve then don’t replace it but if cold starts are difficult then you should replace the valve.

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

I have a completely rebuilt starter installed on my 1961 Corvette.  When I turn the ignition from the “start” position back to the “on” position the starter continues running.  What ideas do you have?
-David

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  I had a similar problem on a 62 Corvette that I was restoring.  The starter that I took out worked just fine but “how many of us have said no let’s get it rebuilt”!  Well “Murphy’s Law struck and the starter did the same thing as yours….it would not disengage and just kept cranking even with the key turned off.  I took it back to the rebuilder and they “forgot” to replace the some inexpensive parts in the bendix drive system of the starter housing end case.  The end of the bendix drive has a retainer, snap ring and thrust collar.  The thrust collar and snap ring were worn out and once they were replaced everything worked just fine again.  Reference a 1968 Motors Auto Repair Manual, page 167 for more more information and have your bendix drive replaced or serviced and this will solve your problem.

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

How do I remove and replace side cove trim on my 1956 corvette please? Thanks!

Jim

 

 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:

The procedure for cove trim removal & replacement is the same for 1956-1961.

Roll the windows all the way up,  Remove the door release knob, window regulator handle and

door lock lever,

Remove the door pull on '58-61,

Remove the door panel,

Remove the two inner door access covers,

Loosen the nut, star washer & flat washer from all the trim attachment studs inside the door,

Loosen the 2 nuts, star washers & flat washers at he front edge of each door. 

If the trim hasn't already separated from the door, rotate the stud CCW to release the head of the stud from the trim.  New door trim is available or you can have the old refurbished.

 To re-install, reverse the process.

Good luck with your project,

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

I have a 1962 340hp. I know it is supposed to be timed at 10 degrees btdc. The tab looks like the attachment below. Could you explain to my how to read this and what notch on the tab I would use as a point of reference for 10btdc.
Thank you for you time and consideration.


Bart
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Each line on the tab represents 2 degrees of timing so that five lines from the 0 line to the A line would be 10 degrees BTDC.  Obviously this is a reproduction timing cover tab so be sure to line up the 0 mark with the groove in the harmonic balancer when you attach it to the timing cover….JB weld works great for this application and use the five minute brand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

I was going to take my original 62 out of winter moth balls this week.  Started it up and the car lurched forword even though I had the clutch in.  I put the car in neutral and she cranked up just fine.  However I could not put it in any gear with the engine running.  With the engine off I could move thru the gears except reverse.  I have had this car for over twenty years and have not had one problem with it up until now.  Any thoughts on what the problem maybe or/how I could possibly fix it ?

Any help is appreciated,
George

From: Larry Pearson: SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

I have this same problem with my 1960 Corvette and 1949 Plymouth from time to time. especially after not driving the cars for several months, or years.  Your clutch disc has bonded itself to the flywheel.  The solution is to break it loose.  With the clutch pedal depressed to the floor and the parking brake hard on and your right foot hard on the brake pedel, put the transmission in high gear and see if applying the starter can break it loose.  This always works for me.  The problem should not reocurr once you break the clutch loose from the flywheel and start using the car.  During the winter storage, rust probably formed on the flywheel and caused the clutch disc to stick to it. Clutch discs are made or a porous material that can absorb moisture from the air and cause the rusting.  If the problem continues to reocurr, or the above procedure doesn't free it, you will have to remove the clutch and clean everything.  Maybe you need a new clutch disc.
 
Larry Pearson

**********

I am not a member of the Solid Axle Organization but hoping you can give me some guidance.  I currently own a C-3 Corvette which I've had since 1992 but my favorites have always been the C-1's.  I'm at the point in my life where I can afford a C-1 and have narrowed my search down to the 1960 with the 283/245 horsepower or the 283/270 horsepower.  Can you please advise of the pros and cons of these power plants and reliability?  
 
 
                                          Thanks
 
                                          Sparky
                                          Pa.   

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Sparky,
 
The only major difference between these 2 motors is the camshaft........the 270hp is a solid lifter cam with a lumpy idle and may require occasional lifter adjustment. The 245hp is nothing more than a base 230 hp motor with dual quads and has a smooth idle. Both engines are very streetable, reliable and easy to drive. I prefer the 270 because I like the lumpy idle and solid lifter sound.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

 

**********

I cannot fill my tires because the stems are not quite long enough.  Do any of the companies like Ecklers or Corvette Central sell extenders?  I have seen generic versions but they appear to be for big SUVs and are too large.  Robert

From: Bill Hufman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Most tire stores (Discount Tire, Belle Tire, Sears, etc.) and auto parts outlets (Auto Zone, Advance Parts, NAPA Stores, etc.) will sell you valve stem extenders.
 
Probably more appropriately, there are usually three different stem lengths in two different seal diameters and the tire stores could install the proper length & balance your tires for you.
 
Corvette Central sells the correct valve stem for your C-1 with the smaller diameter seal & will sell you the correct "Dill" caps as well.
 
However, I found that the stem holes in most of my rims were oversize.
I used the correct length, larger diameter seal stems from Auto Zone with the "Dill" caps from Corvette Central and had Sears mount & balance the tires on a newer machine that didn't scratch the painted rims. 
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC 

 

**********

I have just purchased a 58 Corvette, It has a beautiful paint job of silver metallic blue, but there is some difference in the application of  the paint. The cove is white but the cove panel behind the front wheel has the body color of blue. also the panels underneath of the front and rear bumpers there is no clear coat and it is just the blue paint. I have seen some factory photos of the cove painted like this and photos of the area under the bumpers looking like it was not clear coated . My question did the painter take some discretionary differences or did some of the factory Corvettes come this way.? Soon too be a new member, thank you.   Bill.

 

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  Hi  Regarding the Paint type.  All Corvette's were painted with lacquer through the 1981 model year, if built in St. Louis.  The ones built in Bowling Green did use a base-clear coat paint for the 1981 Cars.  To be factory correct no clear coat should be applied to the car.  Enjoy your 58.  Thanks Larry Richter

 

 

**********

Hi, I'm working on a 1960 corvette for a customer. Im woundering where the data plate location is at. Im looking for paint code number and any other information it might have. Was told might be under dash pass side by heater valve. Thanks for any information. Lanr

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Lane,
 
The short answer to your question is that there is no paint data plate on any 1953-1962 Corvette.
Depending on the build date, the VIN plate will either be just below the driver side upper door hinge attached with Phillips head screws up thru approx mid Nov 1959 or resistance welded to the top surface of the steering column just forward of the firewall.
You may find crayon markings that give an indication of paint color on the panel behind the passenger seat or in the trunk front panel behind the trunk liner cardboard.
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC 

 

 

From:  Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Lanr,
 
There are no data plates on Corvettes prior to 1963. The original color may be found written in green crayon behind the cardboard trunk divider once the paint is scrapped away. It is usually on the right side. It will only tell you the primary color, not the cove or interior color. The interior color can usually be determined by examining the interior of the car for signs of original interior paint. Under the speedometer housing is usually a good spot to look for original interior color.

 

 

 

 

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President: 


 

The only paint indication on a 1960 Corvette will be in green crayon.  This will be located in the trunk.  Remove the cardboard  on the bulk head.  Look between the center support and the right hand spring tower.  If there is still paint , take a coin and press firm until paint chips or flakes off.  Once you find a green spot, go slightly right, left, down and up until letters begin to form. The green crayon is wax and paint will not stick, allowing the paint to flake off. That is why you do not want to grind or scratch vigorously.  This will only destroy it for ever.  I would suggest you apply clear on top of the color area once you find it to save it for another 50 years.  It will be written in a slight upward angle.  Long paint names will be shorten.  For example, BLk for black and BLUE for silverblue.  Good luck and let us know what you find.  The 1960 may not have left St. Louis painted silverblue.

Max Brockhouse SACC President

**********

Hello

Thank you for taking time to help.  I have recently started restoring my 54 corvette and when I went to remove the gas tank, I noticed that it had been leaking and when I got the tank out, I can see that it had been externally patched in three places and coated internally with sealer.  I think that it is time to replace the tank.  In searching the catalog parts companies, I could not locate anyone who actually sold a reproduction 54 gas tank.  Is there anyone that you could recommend that sells reproduction tanks or should I go to a local company in the area that claims to repairs gas tanks?  Although 98% of the car is and will be original, I am not concerned with regards to the authenticity of the gas tank so a reproduction tank is not an issue for me. 

Any guidance you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time!! 

Daren 

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC: 

Daren,

I have had too much trouble with rotted out gas tanks in the past. First, I tried an external patch, which worked a few days. Next, I removed the tank, rinsed it out, and poured in a yellow goop that was supposed to be an internal sealer. After sloshing it around to cover the interior, you drain out the excess and let it dry for a day or two. That was a BIG hassle, and it only worked a few days before it failed too. Finally I found a brand new gas tank (expensive) and the problem went away.

 In my opinion, the old tank is nothing but scrap metal. I found a company that can get you a stainless steel replacement gas tank for your 1954 Corvette. It is a little bit different in shape, but it is supposed to fit and function properly. You can call them at 530) 677-4270 Pacific time. I hope this works okay for you.

Good Luck. Noland Adams


 

**********

Hi!
Can anyone tell me how the 4.56 rear end gears performed on the 62 Corvette.
Off the line performance and highway driving??
Thanks!
 
Rich

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Rich,
 
Are you building a dragster or a driver ? Stock engine or GM Performance engine ?
A 4.56 will give you fast starts & acceleration but also high RPM and high ambient noise level  at driving speeds.  So, if you will be trying to drive this car, it is not advisable.
 
I had a '62 with a 3.08 with a worn engine and had to slip the clutch to get it rolling.
After rebuilding the 327-250 HP and adding a 327-350 HP cam, it ran well from a standing start
& at highway speeds but it never was mistaken as a dragster.
 
There is a reason GM had 3.70 as the standard Corvette axle ratio until the higher horsepower
327 came out in 1962.
 
Good luck with your project,
 
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  4:56 gears are strictly for drag racing and are/would be border line ridiculous for driving on the street.  The 327 engine produced more rear wheel torque than the 283 generation did and would be just fine with either 3:55 of 3:70 gears.  You will never pass a gas station with the 4:56s!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hi,

 I have 54 the post for the windows do not go all way down so I can not lock them in, one of the knobs is bent where would I get the parts to repair it and how hard is it to remove the door panel to replace it?

 Thanks,

Bob

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

Hi Bob,
     The good news is the door panels and white metal bar are very easy to remove, simply bring a Phillips screwdriver. The other good news is there are no window wind mechanisms to deal with. The white plastic nobs and the chrome bezel are readily available (see below). The locking mechanism may be a challenge to find if broken. I am not sure why it will not engage. Do the front first then the rear should drop in the hole in the chrome. Is the chrome aligned properly? Did you replace / rebuild the side curtains and misalign the square pins? Also, try sliding the white ball as you try to engage the pin.
Hope this works.
Bruce Fuhrman
 
Options for '53-'55 parts;
 
E-BAY- vettegal.com (Mary Jo in Poway, CA)
Grossmueller's  908-213-8832  (In Phillipsburg, NJ)

 

 

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Bob,

 1953 to 1955 Corvette side curtains (windows) is a complex combination of plastic, rubber, and different metal alloys with many specialized fasteners (rivets, screws, Etc.). Look in the member ads in our club magazine ON SOLID GROUND for Steve Newsom. He rebuilds and restores side curtains to a like-new condition. He’s in Texas at 281) 413-0028.

 Regards,  Noland Adams

**********

hi   
 
I have 62 corvette , has 180 thermostat  gauge showing 200 plus
 
thank you

Ray

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Ray,
 
In no particular order, possible root causes are:
   Radiator/engine block needs flushing,
   Inadequate cooling level,
   Improper anti-freeze vs water coolant mix,
   Oil level low,
   Defective or too hot thermostat, 
   Defective temp sending unit,
   Defective temp gauge,
   Defective fan clutch,
   Defective water pump / blocked hoses,
   Fan belt too loose.
 
First thing I would do is check fluid levels. other items
Then, have the actual temperature checked against the gauge reading.
If the gauge is  right, check off the other items one by one, easiest to hardest, till you find the problem.
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  If you have recently had the sending unit in the intake manifold replaced the current ones sold at most auto parts stores are not calibrated to our C1 temperature gauges.  I very reliable investment is to purchase a digital infrared heat gun.  This instrument will give you a very reliable temperature reading to know if you really have a problem.  If you find out that the car does not overheat but has an incorrect sender then you can go to any Radio Shack outlet and purchase a very inexpensive diode to be placed in line with your blue temperature gauge wire line and the sender.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Larry Pearson, SACC Advisor: 

I have two 62's. One is 360hp and is all original including the sender, fan clutch, 170 thermostat (replaced with new Delco), water pump (rebuilt), and original 62B dated aluminum radiator (never has leaked yet).  I bought this car in 1972 and it never overheats. 
I bought a second '62 360hp in 1974 and it came with the original sender, a GM service replacement water pump, a 5-blade flex fan, 170 thermostat, and a replacement hand-crafted cross-flow copper radiator.  The FI has been replaced with an AFB 340hp setup.  The engine short block has been replaced with a GM service replacement unit for this application (bought in 1974) and uses the 30-30 camshaft.  It always ran over 180 degrees.  No matter what I did, it always ran hot.  Then I read some articles by the De Witt Corvette Radiators people explaining that the way the original aluminum radiators were constructed, they cool much better (30%) than any copper service replacement radiator can be made to cool.  Even though copper conducts heat (and electricity) much better than aluminum does.  In the 70's I bought a GM service replacement aluminum radiator to use in the FI car when the original aluminum radiator finally failed, and I still had it in storage in the garage.  So I decided to put it in this car to verify that De Witt's claims were true.  They are!  End of the overheating problem.
 
Some additional things to consider.  Today's service replacement fan clutches are calibrated to engage at 195 degrees, not 170 degrees.  They can be modified to engage at a lower temperature.  Years ago an article was written in the NCRS Restorer magazine on how to do this.  These cars all came with a 170 degree thermostat, not 180.  The 170 thermostats may still be available.  I have no ideas on getting a properly calibrated service replacement sender unit.  It is important that the fan shroud be completely in place.  Make certain that the fan blade tips are spaced out from the engine so they are just inside the fan shroud.  If you are using a fixed fan in place of the clutch fan it has to be properly spaced out from the water pump to achieve this.  On the 340 and 360hp cars there are flat rubber seals on each side of the radiator to prevent cooling air from bypassing the radiator on the sides.  There are also three flat rubber seals below the radiator glued to the fiberglass to seal the bottom of the radiator.  Consult the AIM to see how this is done.  Corvette Central should be able to supply the seals and special retainers for the side seals.  The engine timing must be set correctly (8 degrees, as I recall).  I use Podell's lead addative to prevent detonation in this engine (11.25:1 compression).
 
If you fix all of these things, you should have no more cooling problems. 
 
Larry Pearson

**********

Do you have any info about how many 1960 corvettes Tasco Turquoise had silver coves?  I have #100.
 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

According to all the information I have from original Chevrolet documents to current NCRS judging guides, the only cove color available from the factory on a turquoise 1960 was white. 383 were painted turquoise with white coves.  However, note that 15 cars were painted "unknown special colors or primer".
 
We can assume that a dealer could and would paint the cove any color the costumer requested. In my opinion, it is unlikely your car came from the factory with a silver cove.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

**********

Dear SACC,

I think I got a good one that may not have been seen before!

 I have my 58 trunk lid shimmed so the back and front of trunk lid is even with body line.  But both sides is 1/4 to 1/3 inch above the body line.  I believe the correct way to fix is to break loose the body rear upper surround and shim up and fit to the trunk lid or maybe install new upper rear surround.

 Question:  Can I do the opposite:  alter the shape of the trunk lid with to match the body line?  Can I add new fiberglass material to the trunk lid and then grind or cut off the old material on the sides of the trunk lid?

 Is this possible?

 Aloha,

Eric
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Eric,
None of these cars was perfect coming off the production line.
Over-restoring an old Corvette is like scrubbing a rare coin to "brighten" it up. 
Before you do anything, study as many other '58 cars as you can so that you know what "normal" looks like.
The reason for shimming is to allow the weather-seal to keep water out of the trunk area.
My advise............
If your trunk is wet, re-shim it.
If your trunk is dry, leave it be.
 
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC 

 

**********

I’m thinking of using Shell diesel oil 10-40 w in my 1962 corvette with a 327 engine.  (?)  Dennis

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Many controversies about today’s oils and older cars with flat tappet camshafts.  Starting about six years ago many engine builders were confronted with rebuilt flat tappet engines with the camshaft going flat at or near break in.  The one thing we now know is that current engine oils do not have very much if any zinc dithiophosfate or phosphorus.  These compounds were very prevalent in the “old Days” but the oil companies began to remove them from their oils because they were not compatible with catalytic convertors in newer car exhaust systems.  The EPA has required auto manufacturers to warrant the catalytic convertors for 150,000 miles and the manufacturers went to the oil companies and made them produce engine oils that would not devoid the warranty.  Many specialty oil companies have moved into the void and sell and produce oils with high zinc and phosphorus compounds in them specifically marketed to our older cars with flat tappet camshafts.  Amsoil is just one of many oil companies that produce this type of oil today.  It is called Z-ROD and is a fully synthetic oil with high concentrations of zinc and phosphorus.  The downside of these specialty compounded oils is they are not cheap but neither is your older Corvette.  These specialty oils are an insurance policy for your older Corvette engines. 

 

 

 

**********

Do they make an insert to place in the convertible top bin on my 1957 Corvette.  All I have is the hard top and I want to clean up the soft top storage area.
Also does anyone produce the plug covers for the (2) holes in the bottom of the above top storage bin?
 
Thanks
 
Bob

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Bob,
 
The two holes in the bottom of the folding top storage area are drain holes for water leakage,
so mine are left open.
In folding top equipped cars, there is a black felt pad glued to the tank cover. 
 
You could add a "big tank" cover to fill up the space or just use it as extra trunk space.
This area is not readily visible if you have a hardtop only car.

 
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

From Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Bob,
 
I have 2 57's in my garage. One is an early car, the other is late. Each has 3 holes in the bottom of the convertible top storage area. I believe the center hole, about 3/8" is a drain hole just in case water should get in the storage area. The other 2 holes which  are 2" in diameter and located just under the hinges, are access holes for installing the nuts on the top of the shock absorbers. Although I have never seen covers over those 2" holes, I believe originally they would have been covered. I cut out 2 square pieces of tar paper and glue them over the holes. 
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

**********

Helping a friend restore a '59 Corvette. It is in pretty bad shape with a lot of monkeys playing around the car for years. The front emblem is on and cut through the Fiberglas. The rear emblem is missing and it looks and feels like someone did a lot of body work. Did the rear trunk emblem fit through a hole like the front emblem? Was it just put on with bolts through the Fiberglas? How can we find the correct position of the emblem on the trunk? I would appreciate any help you can give us.
Best regards,\Bryce

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President: 

Emblems in the front and back were the same and fit the same on 58 - 60.

 

Yes, the front and back emblems were mounted in the same fashion.  The convex "bowl" of the emblem fit in to the larger hole with the three studs fitting into the three smaller holes on the body/trunk lid.  The three studs are fastened with speed nuts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Bryce,
 
58-60 have  hole in the front panel for the front emblem. They would have the same size hole in the trunk lid for the rear emblem. They use the same emblem front & rear and they attach with 3 speed nuts onto the 3 bezel studs.
 
If the trunk lid on your friend's 59 has no emblem hole, it may be a 56-57 trunk lid or one of the previous owners glassed or used body filler to close it.
 
Either way, there are two choices.
Buy a correct trunk lid w/ emblem hole or find a correct 59-60 to use to make a locator template.
A 58 car would work but the trunk spears would make the template more difficult to accurately locate for a 59. 
 
 Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC 

 

**********

I have a 1961 245HP duel wcfb carbs. It stalls on left hand turns only. I first thought it was vapor locking but temp from carb bowls to fuel pump is good. I tried using racing insulation on fuel line from fuel pump to fuel bowl/filter to be sure. I checked the  rubber fuel line from steel line to fuel pump, no problem with clearance or twisting or binding due to torque. Replaced fuel pump which seemed to have helped, but still have the stumble.

Do you think it is the Carter part number 145-142 brass bushing between the fuel bowl and the vacuum passage.

Out of ideas in N.C.

Chuck

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Adviser:  Stalling while only turning in one direction usually indicates that some of the floats are not set properly allowing fuel to slosh from one or more vent tubes.  The beauty of Rochester fuel injection is that it eliminated this problem!  Check and reset your float heights to factory specifications.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hi,

I'm not a member but I came across your website and I have a question I'm hoping you can answer. I have owned two Corvettes many years ago. My first was a 1959 that I bought in 1964 and the second was a 66 I bought in 1985. Hands down my 59 was the car that gave me Corvette Fever.

I'm a little older now and have started a build on a new Morrison 62 solid axle chassis and not being able to find a 62 body that I could afford I opted for a Downs Industries replica 62. Unfortunately it is as hard a build as if I had bought a 62 wreck. Nothing fits, everything has to be customized to accept NOS or original parts. (I'm referring to the body, the chassis is perfect.). Now my question; Do the cut outs in the floor pan beneath the fuel tank have a purpose? The floor in my replica is solid. No holes. Someone on another forum suggested that the original cutouts were a safety feature and that has caused me some concern. Can you clarify this issue for me?

Thank you

Bob

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  You should probably contact Morrison first since they got you into this “mess” in the first place.  We are predominately a factory original organization with little or nothing to do with “kit cars.”  Good luck with your project…….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Bob,

Although I don't disagree with Doug regarding kit cars, as a retired automotive engineer, I believe you have asked a safety related question that might be of interest to C-1 owners.

 

The holes below the fuel tank have three purposes;

1) Drain plug clearance hole on the far right (pass) side to allow the tank to be drained while

    still installed in the car.

2) Holes for front attachment of tank hold-down straps& attachment brackets to secure the

    tank in place. It is extremely important to use both the straps and the insulator

    between tank & straps to eliminate metal to metal contact.

    Loose tanks, wear / abrasion & possible sparking are not good.
3) Other holes are to allow circulation of air up & around the tank.

    Without these holes, gasoline vapors could leak into the passenger compartment.

 Other holes that may be missing are the tank vent hose holes that should be located in the gas filler area. The gas tank must be vented.

 In the long run, my bet is that it may be less expensive to buy a new body from these folks,
Back to the Future Products, LLC.

In any case,
Good luck with your project,

Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

**********

My 59 is an early car. Our research after buying a judging guide says the inside of the trunk should be interior color. My car will be black with red interior. So is the underside of the trunk lid red? Thanks for your help.

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President: 

Trunk compartment color has frequently been a point of discussion, as different examples exist.

 

Noland Adams' Corvette Restoration & Technical Guide, Volume 1 (pages 254 & 255) indicates that for 1958 throught 60 the trunk compartment color matches the car's interior.  He goes on to say the 1958 Corvette paint instructions indicate the hardtop, trunk compartment, deck lid panel (inside), and folding top lid panel (inside) were all painted the same; to match the car's interior.  He states the factory continued to use these same painting instructions for1959 and 1960.

 

He also cites an example of a 1960 Corvette where a trunk compartment was painted the same as the car's exterior.  He only indicates this for 1960 and states there is no rhyme nor reason as to the timing or why it occurred.

 

However, the NCRS judging manual ( page 12) states: "1958 and early 1959 trunks were painted interior color.  Remainder of 1959 to 1960 painted exterior body color."

 

You mention your Corvette is an early 59. If so, both opinions support painting the trunk interior the same as the car's interior color.  Nolans research supports the inside of the deck lid being the same as the trunk color.  There is a GM file photograph of this on an early 1958 prototype, on page 242 of his book.

 

**********

Hi,
I have a 1954 corvette will a 1953 fuel pump work in my car? Also you help me last week on the carb’s flooding all three were flooding, what should the pressure be from the pump?

 Thanks,
 Bob

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

H Bob,
    The '53 fuel pump (AC 9797) is the same as the passenger car pump and easier to find. It will work on the '54 except you will not be able to locate the fuel filter by the pump where it was placed on the '54's. The '53 filter was mounted in front of the #1 carb. The '54 pump (AC 4132) has the fuel attachment lines angled to permit the filter to be added next to the pump.
   The fuel pumps produce about 10 psi. I put a pressure regulator in mine and set at 1.5 psi and I works fine, no flooding. You may have needle valve seats that are worn or accelerator pump diaphragms that are porous causing the flooding?
Good luck,
Bruce Fuhrman

 

 

 

 

**********

Hi Everyone.
    I have been trying to find out the correct ppg code in lacquer paint for for my 1954.The new tech manual and judging guide only says Metallic Beige for the interior pieces the car is Pennant blue. Does any one know the exact code  in lacquer they used.for the Metallic Beige.Thank you Bob

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

Hi Bob,
    If there were codes in 1954, I do not know where they recorded them! Maybe Noland knows. When I restored my '54  we were able to find some protected original paint under the weather striping and some metal plates. We polished and clear coated the best spot and the painter computer color matched to the original color perfectly. There were only 300 painted Pennant Blue.
Good luck.
Bruce Fuhrman

 

 

 

 

 

**********

I have another question, where on the frame are the vin numbers on the frame.  Rick

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  The stamped VIN # is stamped on the top of the frame rail on the left side about under the drivers thigh. It cannot be seen since there is only about a one inch gap between the Fiberglas floor and the frame. To check it, I had to make a thin wood stick,wrap it with sandpaper, then clean off many years of dirt and rust. Then clean off, pack in some white chalk or powder, then blow off. Then use a small dental mirror and flashlight to read the # and compare with the door post. They should match.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hi

I have a 57 Vette. The door was not closing properly. I tried to adjust the door striker. Two of the 3 screws were stuck solid and impossible to loosen. I tried PB blaster, using an impact screwdriver, and finally I've drilled out the heads figuring I could get it with a stub remover. Still not working. I think a prior owner has glued the sticker bolts. Is there a way to access the bolts from the back side? What do you suggest.

Thanks,  Bob
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The door striker bolts screw into a nut plate that is behind the door jam and is basically not accessible unless you want to remove the wheels and cut through the body.  The screws have become completely rusted over time and this is not an uncommon problem with C1s.  I suggest that you grind off the remaining heads and drill out the screws and install helicoils to repair the holes in the nut plate itself.  Be patient and good luck with this project.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hi,
I just pick up a 1954 corvette a few issues: the first is when I start the car gas pours out of the carb’s and the engine starts shaking, and the top it came shipped  down how do I put it up what is the process?
Thank You,

Bob

From: Bruce Furhman, SACC Secretary: 

HI Bob,
 
    The gas coming out of the 3 carbs is either bad accelerator diaphragms (rubber which gets attacked by our new gas) and / or stuck needle valves in the float chambers. You need to rebuild the carbs and put a pressure regulator in line and set for about 2 psi.
  I am not sure what top you are referring to? The convertible top, hood or the top of the carbs?
Bruce Fuhrman

 

 

 

 

 

Follow up: Thanks for the tip on the carb’s . The convertible top, having a hard time latching the rear to the deck is there a procedure do I start latching front middle bows or rear first? Thanks,Bob

From: Bruce Furhman, SACC Secretary:  Hi Bob,
OK, this is a common problem with '53 - '55 tops. Here is what I did to keep them latched assuming you want to keep all stock.
The back plates in the deck cover are probably worn and are made of soft metal. Any vibration and they pop loose. So, latch them first, then the front. I replaced the 2 plates which helped but did not keep them from coming loose on long trips. I then wedged a small piece of rubber between the chrome release lever and the base clip which keeps the teeth engaged in the base plate. You may want to place a rubber band or duct tape around the rubber and lever to assure it does not come out. This has worked for me on long trips.
Good luck.
Bruce Fuhrman

 

**********

I was driving my 62 original 327/300 hp about 60 mph, in the cool evening, when the engine just shuts down as if you would turn the ignition switch off. It was off for about 10 seconds then the engine restarts and continuous to run. Ok, odd...drove for another 2 or 3 minutes then off again. This time after I came to a stop on the side of the road.... She would not start.  Towed her home and look for electrical problem because it had gas going in the carb when I would pull back the throttle lever. Changed out the coil and she started right up. Great!!! When sitting behind the wheel it is automatic to look at each gauge for those whom have had one for decades.  Well, the battery was on constant discharge...not much...but it wasn't where it should have been. More especially when I would reive the engine it may move a fraction but would remain in the negative side. Turned on the lights still no movement. Thus, I changed out the volt regular, coil resistor still the same.  Your suggestion and/or experience on what I may do next would be much appreciated.

Thanks
3208

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Generator or regulator and most likely the coil voltage resistor problem, but I am not sure which.  At a recent antique tractor meeting (club that I am involved with) a battery shop spoke and he says always check the battery first.  If a battery is 3 years old it most likely has failed and sometimes it will not hold enough for a generator to keep up allowing for no spark to the engine.

Max Brockhouse SACC President

 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Darrell,

Sounds like you had a defective ignition coil.

The voltage regulator that you replaced may not have been defective.

 I would advise you to polarize the electrical system.

Form a  4-5 inch insulated copper wire into a C-shape and arc across the Battery & Generator (top & bottom) terminals on the voltage regulator.

There is no way to know how long this condition has existed so be sure to have the battery & generator output checked after you get it running.  
Good luck,

Bill Huffman, Pres. Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

Simple question: how to install gasline/brake frameclips on 57. I push them in the holes and they are still loose. The ends going through the frame rails are crescent shaped and do not spring back. Whats the secret?
Thanks,
Bob

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Bob,
 
The reproduction brake/fuel line clips sold by the various Corvette suppliers simply do not function as they should. I always buy extras because I know some will break and others will fail. Any tension on the fuel and brake lines will pull the clips out of the frame. Make sure your lines are straight and true.............not always an easy thing to do.

 

 

 

 

 

**********

I am restoring a 1959 corvette Black, silver coves and red interior. I have done research on the paint code for the red dash color and have found several different answers. I was hoping you could answer this question for me as we are at the point of needing to buy the red paint. We meet your club in Kissimmee Fl, Very nice group hope to meet again as we have two C1 corvettes and LOVE them. Thanks hope you can help me out with this question.  Debbie

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The red interior color of your 1959 Corvette was called Roman Red.  There were three different manufacturers of this lacquer color from St. Louis.  DuPont 2931LH, R&M A1138R and Ditzler DDL70961.  Lacquer paint is generally not available today but a high quality body and paint shop should be able mix up this color for you using modern paints and materials.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

good afternoon. My name is Don and I live in Ohio. Is there a local chapter or can I register otherwise? I do have a question about 57-62 positraction carriers. I am currently restoring my 62 that I have had since 1966. I have heard that there are two or three generations of carriers and I would like to know how to identify them so I can get the correct parts and also clutch packs. If there are sources for parts that you know about, that would be helpful also. Thanks, Don

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:

Don,

Unfortunately, there is not currently a local SACC chapter in the Ohio area but all it takes is a few interested C-1 owners to start one. You didn't say where you live in Ohio but after you join the National SACC, Michigan Chapter is authorized to admit members from NW Ohio & NE Indiana.

Contact me at MI_SACC@yahoo.com if you are interested.

 Regarding rebuilding a posi unit, I assume from your question that your car does not currently have a posi-traction differential. But whether that's true or not, contact Darrell Shepherd at 4 speeds by Darrell in Vermilion, IL.

He can rebuild your differential or sell you a correctly dated posi-traction unit.  Darrell has rebuilt two 3.70 posi units for me. I supplied the correct castings & flanges. 
He supplied the GM series 3 carriers and other internal components.

 Good luck with your project,

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

My 59 vette ,283 with carter wcfb 4bb starts good when cold. After driven half hour or more, fully warmed up, and shut off and restarted within 1 to about 2 minutes will starts good but if not started for 10 to 20 minutes it won't start unless I press the gas peddle to the floor. It acts like its flooded. I removed the air cleaner and can see an occasional dripping of gas in the manifold. Carburator has been rebuilt. Timing, point gap all good. Been told it's todays lousy gas. A friends 57 chevy 283 does the same thing. Hope someone has a solution as this is hard on starters. How do I join your organization? You help a lot of people. Thank you very much.

 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Joining is easy.

Look for the membership application tab just above the technical help tab. 

Print it, fill it out & send it in.

If you live within the borders of an SACC Chapter,  you should give then a try also.

 Your car has a common issue that has been discussed previously

Basically, your '59 and your friend's '57 have the same cast iron intake manifold (3746829) with built in carburetor heating ports. The hot start problem is from the fuel boiling over into the carburetor throat and into the engine.
In order of difficulty:

 1) Switch to premium gas which has a higher boiling temp.
 2) Set the float level lower but not so low that it cavitates on hard turns.
 3) Put extra gaskets or a fiber spacer between the manifold & carburetor as a heat insulator.
 4)  Switch to the fuel injection intake manifold gasket set that closes off the carburetor heating ports
.
Good luck solving your flooding,

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

Hello, My name is Mike and l own a 1960 Corvette. I would like to go to a larger wheel and tire combo in the rear. I currently have a 6.70/15 stock tire on stock wheels. I would like to upgrade to a 7 inch tread width tire. What backspacing is needed on the wheel to fit this size tire without modifications to the body or suspension?

 
Thank you,

 
Mike

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Mike,

You can put Coker American Classic 205-75R15 tires on your stock rims all the way around to get wider tires, radial performance and a stock appearance all in the same package w/o affecting your speedometer. That's what I would recommend. 

 

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

**********

Hi,  My name is Bob . I have a 1960 Honduras maroon corvette that I've owned since 1975.  It's mostly stock original except for some updates, tires carb, intake, electronic distrubuter,etc.  If you attended Memphis it was there!  My question and problem is, I have stock wheels and original hubcaps not after markets.  The hubcaps are a real bear to mount on the wheels Is there any trick or method to making this job any less of a strain .  I've spent hours taking the dents out and then only putting them back in when I install them.         IF this e-mail thing works out I have many questions about my car.   serial #9953  out of 10261   found a lot of 61 parts on the car that look like they were there from day one!       THANKS  BOB

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Bob,

I saw you and your car in Memphis. I remembered it because I have one just like it.

 Regarding the wheel covers, I have a 2 1/2 inch diameter rubber hammer and a 1 1/2 inch vinyl lead shot filled hammer that I use depending on how tight the rim to wheel cover fit is.

-I have never dented mine but I sometime have to tap around the outside edge 2 or 3 times to
 make sure the cover is completely seated.

Always strike the cover squarely with the face of the hammer, never with the edge.

A piece of 2x4 to use as a tapping block might help in keeping the  hammer away from the cover.

Bill Huffman, Pres.  Michigan Chapter SACC  
 

**********

I am a new member and have a 1962 corvette 4 spd. I do not know if it was the original transmission. I took it to the shop that has been working on the car because I lost  a screw in the shifter and could not get the car out of reverse. The screw was installed, but the car now runs much less smooth, and vibrates more  than it did previously. I thought that the shifter made need adjustment and took it back to the shop. They said that  the adjustment was fine( the car shifts from one gear to another easily) but they noticed a jury rigged transmission mount that may be creating the problem. I order the correct transmission mount. They also noticed that the shaft on the drive shaft yoke was exposed to a greater length than it should be. They thought the trans may have been converted from a 3 speed and said that I need a new drive shaft, which I presume is longer than the one on the car

 My questions are( 1)  how much of the yoke shaft should be visible and (2) Are there different drive shaft lengths for a 4speed, a 3 speed and automatic trans( in case the car was initially an automatic trans).

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

New member,

Sounds like you may have a number of underlying issues that may need to be addressed.

Questions:

Stock shifter with reverse lock-out? Does it have the anti-rattle spring & bracket ?

Is the car really vibrating or is it the shifter? Or the drive shaft/ yoke ?

The 4 -speed transmission mount is different than a 3-speed mount although the transmission cross-member/support is the same.

If the transmission was misaligned, the spline on the output shaft or the drive shaft yoke spline could be loose/worn. On a '62, you should have the 26 tooth spline on shaft & yoke.

 Regarding yoke exposure, you most likely saw 1 to 1 1/2 inch of  exposed outside diameter due to rear suspension drop from being up on a hoist.

 Good luck with your project,

Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

Thank you for the earlier prompt reply's to several question I have sent to your relating to my 1960 C-1.

My primary issue with this car is that at 65 or 70 mph, my engine, with the 3.7 rear end is turning over 3,000 rpms.  If I go to a 3.08 posi this should drop my rpms down to around 2,600 or so.

I have owned this 1960, two 1969's, a 1999 and a 2007.  Both the 1999 and 2007 were 6 speed manual transmissions and at 70 mph the engine rpms were barely over 1,600.  What do you have to do to this car to get the rpms down to around 2,000 at 70 mph?

Season Greeting to You and Yours,

Don

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  It may be a case of wanting your cake and eating it too!  Remember you are driving a C1 Corvette and not a C5 or C6.  Six speed manuals are great today but your C1 is 54 years old.  Depending on what engine is currently in your C1 going to 3:08s will make it a real dog around town.  Based on my experience, I suggest that you may have to get used to the RPMs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*********

I have a Roman Red 1959 with white coves, white soft-top, and black interior.  I would like to add a hardtop which was originally part of the build, but no longer in my possession.  What is most proper, a white hard-top or red?  I prefer the red, but can live with white if that is more correct.  Thanks!  

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Most hardtops that I have seen are body color although there have been a few painted the cove color.


What is proper? Or were they even available in cove color from St. Louis?
I didn't work there, but I know a couple of guys who did.

They are blind copied on this memo so perhaps they can tell us .

 

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

From: John Hinckley, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

Factory-installed hardtops left St. Louis in body color; there was no mechanism to order them any other way.
 
Regards,
 
John Hinckley

 

From: Brad Bean, SACC VP: 

Never say never, but hard tops were only offered, from the factory, painted the primary body color.

 

I am aware of one case where it was painted to match the cove, at the dealer prior to delivery, which I guess would have made it "original". 

 

Also, the headliner color and style should match the car's interior color and year.

 

Personal note... for investment purposes, it's nice to have a correct hard top, for a car which came with one.  I too purchased and restored one for my '60.  However, I enjoy driving the car with the top down and it was a pain taking a hard top of it on. Plus, if I left home with the hard top on, no matter how nice the day was, the hard top had to remain on until I returned home.  After one summer of using the hardtop, I stored it in the garage where it remained for 15 years; selling it rather than move it following retirement.

 

Just food for thought.

 

 

**********

I have recently purchased a 1960 Corvette that has had a frame off restoration. Since the restoration the bumper "down" nose panel has been damaged. I have located a replacement part from Zip Corvette parts.

 
My question is how much of the old nose down panel has to be removed in the area where it bonds to the nose "up" panel?
I have recently acquired several books on automotive fiberglass repairs and intend to install this part myself.
Any other guidance would be appreciated.
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Ron,

The lower front panel as an OEM part extends from the center line of the headlights back to the wheel openings from one side to the other behind the bumpers and below the grill surround. You might want to consult a local Chevy dealer or body shop that does fiberglass repair to see if your lower panel can be repaired. An otherwise completely restored C-1 is a poor place to start learning fiberglass repair.

 

Remember the Hippocratic Oath, "Do your patient no harm".

Or as Dirty Harry says, "A man has to know his limitations".

 

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

 

**********

Follow up question, I have owned both a  1999 and 2007 Corvette and both had the 6 speed transmission.

My goal on this car is to make it as drive able as possible yet maintaining the external appearance of being 100% original.  Do you know if it is possible to install one of these transmissions in this car?  I would like to get the motor turning around 2100 rpm at 70 if at all possible. The 1999 and 2007 were turning around 1600 with the six speed.

Thanks,

Don 

          From: Paul Lemieux, Michigan Chapter: 

My 59, 230 hp, had an original 3 speed, 3.70 geared drive line.  The trans started to leak quite a bit so a decision was made to replace it with a keisler built tremec 5 speed.  At 70, my engine is turning just 2100 rpm, this has made the car so much more fun to drive.  I also optioned to have the optional shifter which is identical to the stock 4 speed shifter.  I ordered directly from keisler and had the trans professional installed, I believe that Corvette Central also sells the keisler unit.

 
Paul

**********

Hi

I have just recently joined the club and my member number is 3701. I purchased a 1960 C1 that has had a frame off restoration in 2009.  I have been working out of country and the car was not driven until I retired in August of this year.  
There are three primary issues:

 
Issue #1:  The clutch pads are frozen and the limited slip feature of this rear 
                end is not working.  I have added one of the additives that was
                recommended, went to parking light did figure eights, and
                pads are still stuck.
                What is required to service these pads?

 
Issue #2:   The car has either a 4:11 or 4:56 rear end and at 70 MPH the 
                 tach is showing 3,000+ RPM. 
                I am getting parts estimates of between $ 1200 and $ 2400
                to install a posi 3:36. Any idea as to which estimate is reasonably
                correct?  Is a 3:08 possible?

 
Issue #3:   The car has a 383 stroker installed with an estimated HP of 450.
                 Since the car has the original tire size and I do not plan to spend
                 my weekends at the drag strip, I do not believe that the chassis
                 or rear end will  be at risk.  Do you believe otherwise?
                
Donald
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:

Don,

Let's address your questions one at a time.

 

1) I had a similar issue with a rebuilt 3.70 posi unit. I had it rebuilt, then went a couple years before I got around to installing it. We put in Posi-lube plus a GM additive and spent a couple hours doing figure 8s.  The clutch pads were still stuck.

 

Took the car on a 50 mile road trip, drained the axle lube completely, added another bottle of GM additive and then tried the figure 8s again. over the next week of short runs, the posi unit began working fine.

 

2) With a stock 3.70 axle in mine, it runs 3000-3500 RPM at highway speeds.

Since your car was recently redone, and if it has the original rear end, you should be able to read the axle code stamped on the passenger side front surface of the differential casting along with the differential assembly date.

Look for AN for 3.70, AP for 4.11 or AQ for 4.56.

 

Casting number on the driver side should be 3743833 along with a casting date.

Last complete rebuild cost me about $1800, summer of 2012.

Either a 3.55, 3.36 or 3.08 will require a new carrier.

It is your car, make yourself happy.

 3) The 1949 Chevrolet chassis with stock tires, brakes and steering in your 1960 Corvette was never designed to handle 450 HP in any way except CAREFULLY.

 Good luck with your project,

Bill Huffman, Pres., Michigan Chapter SACC

 

 

 

**********

Hi,
My name is Jay and I am looking for the pins and clips that hold the shifter to the trans. on a 1961 4 speed.
Thanks for your help,
Jay

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Jay.
You don't say whether you have a Borg Warner T-10 or a Muncie Transmission. You also didn't say whether you have a stock shifter or a Hurst.

. An OEM original 61 Corvette w/4-speed should have a BW T-10 with T-handle reverse lock-out.  However, after 52 years any combination is possible.

 After you find out what is in your car, complete linkage kits for your combination are available from most Corvette parts vendors for less than $100. 

If you really only need the pins & clips, check Corvette Central P/Ns 531016 & 531115.

 

Bill Huffman, Pres.  Michigan Chapter SACC 
 

**********

Hi there, we have a 1958 Corvette with a 1962 283 engine with an aluminium intake manifold.   Can you tell us whether the 1962 283 corvette motor had an aluminium intake manifold from factory?

 Regards,

Dave

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  All 1962 Corvettes were assembled with the newly introduced 327 cubic inch engine with various horsepower ratings.  The 340 horsepower version had a single four barrel aluminum intake manifold.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hello !
Trying to improve the turn signal cancel mechanism I got some information from Rarecorvettes that refers to some leaf springs that go under the turn signal ring.  With the mechanism laid out in front of me, I see neither the thin leaf springs, nor any place to mount them if I had 'em.  Is there a source for these internal steering column parts ?
Thanks,
Gary

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The turn signal cancelling cams very often wear out.  Paragon Reproductions sells a complete turn signal cancelling cam mechanism , part number 8960K.  Your turn signal housing has two small wheels that must be cleaned and lubricated in order for the new mechanism to work properly.  Use needle nose pliers to insure that they turn freely after cleaning and lubricating them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hello. I have a question regarding starter motors for C1 Corvettes. I have a 1958 Corvette with the original 283 engine. I have tried to keep it mostly original.  I am trying to find out if anyone actually makes a high torque starter motor that will fit my engine. It does not have to be a mini starter, a full size starter will be fine. I have tired unsuccessfully twice in purchasing a high torque mini starter only to find out it does not fit my engine. The holes on the engine are 1/8" off from the holes on the starter.  The reason I am looking for a high torque versus a regular, is after I drive for about an hour and the engine is hot,, when I stop for a coffee and return to start the car, it is difficult to start. I have narrowed it down to the starter being overheated. I added a thermal wrap to the motor/ solenoid, but that did not really help. 
Or does anyone make a high quality starter that does not get overheated and will start easily in warm weather. (it gets warm in Calif.)
Any ideas or assistance is greatly appreciated.
 
Thank you,
Tim

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Tech Advisor:  This one is very easy.  Just buy a GM starter for a big block Corvette C2 as all C2s with the big engine had a high torque starter motor.  You will have to just change the end frame, the part that bolts to the starter in a C1 to the bell housing.  This is an easy fix and you will love the difference it makes.  I also suggest that you install a larger in diameter positive battery cable when you make this conversion. Go to a two gauge or larger as they flow more current with much less resistance to engine heat. Works like a charm for me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

****************************************************************************************************************


Hello there,

My dear husband who would kill me if he saw that I was typing this, misplaced the only set of keys we have to our 1961 Corvette.  I have a sneaking suspicion they are in the trunk, but he seems to think they are in the pocket to a USMC uniform that he turned back into the Corps when he retired last year.

Anyway - no locksmith wants to touch the car, so I thought I'd seek expert advice about how I go about fixing this dilemma.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Michelle

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  The good news is, you can open the trunk without a locksmith.  The bad news is, you will have to damage the trunk emblem in order to do it.  Drill a series of holes in the plastic emblem to weaken it and break it out as well as the metal dish behind the emblem.  Now use this hole to reach the rod on the key tumbler inside the trunk lid. Now pull the rod until the latch releases.  Good luck and all is not lost

 

 

.

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  

One way would be to remove the glove box key assembly and take to a locksmith. He can make a key which if a stock car should match the trunk lock.
Phil, an owner of a '62.

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Bill Herron, past Treasurer of SACC;  

"One key fits all" on my 57.  If your glove box is unlocked, open it and remove the lock.  The actual lock unit (inside the housing) will have a four digit number stamped on it; that's the key code for that lock.  I don't recall 61 for sure but assuming it's the same as 57 that code (and a competent locksmith) will be able to make a new key.  As an alternative, call AAA (I did once when I locked the keys in my trunk 3500 mi from home!).  I won't bother with the details but a locksmith came out and opened the trunk with no damage.
 
Bill Herron

 

**********

Im looking for a place to purchase a service manual that has the information on how to change and set up a new crown and pinion gear set.
Hope you can help.
Thanks

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor:  Refer to Corvette Service Manual ST-12 Chapter 4.

**********
Hi,
Could you please supply me with the wheel alignment specs for my '61 Vette?
It's steering very average and I've got her booked in at the local tyre shop for adjustment but they haven't any spec's.

Thanks in advance,
Alex

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor:  

As per Corvette Service Manual ST-12 wheel alignment is as follows:

Caster    2 degrees  +- ½ degree

Camber   ½ degree +- ½ degree

King Pin Inclination   3 1/2 to 4 1/2 degrees

Toe-In (per wheel)    1/16th inch – 1/8thinch

Toe-Out on Turns

   Inner Wheel     20 degrees +- 2degrees

Outer Wheel 24 degrees +- 2dgrees

**********
I've got another question.

I need a service manual / rebuild manual with pictures of the original
3-Speed Saginaw transmission which is used in my 1960 Corvette.

It seems that there is no information or manual about this 3-Speed
transmission. That is very disappointing. Furthermore there are no rebuild
kits for this kind of transmission available?

Do you know where I can gather information about this transmission or even a
book? And where to buy any correct rebuild kit?

Thank you very much and have a nice day.


Yours sincerely


Ruedi Keller, Switzerland

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor:  Information about rebuilding and repairing three speed manual transmissions can be found in a 1961 Chevrolet Passenger Car Shop Manual.  The chapter in this manual would also apply to your 1960 three speed transmission.

**********

I have a 1962 corvette and would like some help the number on the steering colm is #20867S103393 I would like to know the build date of the corvette and what would be the correct date code for the block and heads 327 340 hp with 4 speed any help would be great
Thanks Walt

From: Max Brockhouse, President of SACC:  Your '62 was built fairly early on the 15th of November1962.  Actually your '62 is fairly early production model year.  The '62 started production on September 17, 1962.

 

 

 

 

**********

What type of gas should I use in my 1959 vette it's a 283 automatic just restored,thank you Phil

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor:  Your engine has lower compression than the high performance engines and should operate just fine on 91 Octane gasoline.  Today’s gasoline’s are 10% gasohol which is very detrimental to older cars fuel systems.  Gasohol attracts water which when combined with alcohol forms an acid compound which will start to eat away at the inside of older pot metal carburetors and metal fuel lines.  By adding one once of automatic transmission fluid to each gallon of gasoline will inhibit this process so that rust and acids can not form in your Corvette’s fuel system.

**********

Hi,
I just ran across your web site and I'm not an SACC member.  I have a 1960 Corvette and the generator has started to smoke so I'm guessing that it needs to be rebuilt. Do you have any recommendations for a shop that can either rebuild my current generator or a source where I can purchase a "new" generator?  I live in Minnesota but obviously I'd be willing to send the generator off to a shop that knows what they are doing.
Thanks.
Doug

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC: 

Doug,

When replacing parts on your 1960 Corvette, be aware that original parts are more valuable than common replacement parts. Even if your Corvette is modified, keep any original parts you have.

Normally generators are rebuildable if the case isn’t damaged. Every Corvette parts dealer will have a shop in their area that rebuilds generators, starters, distributors, master brake cylinders, Etc. If your part is original, be sure that you get your original rebuilt and returned. I don’t know where you live, but I’d contact the closest Corvette vendor first.

 If you can’t find a vendor, call Corvette Stop at 530) 677-4270. I have worked in Drew’s business for several years, and he knows about the needs of Corvette owners. Corvette Stop is in El Dorado County, California, just East of Sacramento. That’s why I suggested that you try a local source first.

 Enjoy your “60,

 Noland Adams

From Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  First off there are many qualified generator rebuilding shops scattered across the country but you must first determine that you have the correct generator that is original/correct for your Corvette to go through the motions of having it rebuilt.  If the generator in question is not original then you could obtain a generic replacement or seek out a rebuilt original that is correct for your Corvette.  If your generator still has the original Delco Remy metal tag affixed to the body it will either read 1102043 for all engines except for high performance fuel injection or 1102173 for high performance fuel injection engines.  If you have neither of these generators on your Corvette you could opt out for either a generic “over the counter” replacement or seek out a rebuilt correct generator for your Corvette.  NCRS Driveline or Ebay would be your best bet for correctness.

**********
How do I know when my car was built?? 104585           model year 1958.

From; Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Your 1958 Corvette was built early on February 25, 1958.

 

 

 

 

**********

Hello,
 I recently bought a neglected 61, and am concerned that it has the wrong driveshaft.  My question is this: what is the correct overall length of the driveshaft?   
 
I replaced two very badly arched rear springs with replacements from Paragon and now see that the yoke doesn't penetrate the transmission tailshaft up to the previously worn (bright), area?
Also, the driveshaft looks to be an aftermarket shaft.
 Thank You,
 Ger

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  Drive shaft measures 34 1/2" from center of front u joint to center of rear u joint. Yoke is 4 3/4 ".

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********
I've got another question about my 1960 Corvette.

I just cannot figure out how to install the door end tab which should be
bent and also holds the weatherstrip (see enclosed pictures).

Do you have a close-up picture of such a tab correctly installed? It seems
that it would otherwise make scratches at the door.

Thank you very much for an answer and have a nice day.

Yours sincerely

Ruedi

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Look in the 1960 assembly manual, section F, sheet 11. Once you install the retainer, you bend the vertical end up under the weatherstrip. And yes, sometimes it will scratch the door jam.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

 

 

**********
Can you tell me the proper diameter of the front coil springs for my 59 vette, what they put in the car measures 0.6685 and the suspension has absolutely no give whatsoever, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance for your time, Pat

From Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  Original 53-62 standard Corvette spring coils measure .550 and the free ( unsprung) hight of the spring is 13 3/4". 57-59 heavy duty springs have a free hight of 11 1/8" . I do not know the coil diameter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********
Can you tell the build date of my '62 FI by the VIN number?  The VIN ends with S107588.

Thanks
Steve

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor:  Your car was built the first week of March probably on Thursday March the 1st of 1962.

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  The first Corvette on March 1st was #7655 and the first Corvette built on March 2nd was #7724, so most likely March 1st 1962.

 

 

 

**********

Hi Guys!

 Thank for your help the last time.

 I have a ’58 car with oversized screw holes for door panels.  Problem is the oversize screws are loose.

 Question:  how can this be fixed?  I understand to fix fiberglass, both sides has to be sanded and roughed up to adhere new fiberglass layup to prepare for new holes, but I don’t think the inside of the inner door can be reached.

 Aloha,

Eric

From: Max Brockhouse, President of SACC:  Enlarge the holes in the door, insert plastic anchors (some are square & some are round) into the door.  Now' you can use the normal screw to hold your door panel on.

 

 

 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor:  You don’t necessarily have to fiberglass repair both sides of the hole in the door panel as fiberglass repairing of the outside of the door panel hole is sufficient.  However it is like putting a band aid on the problem as it is usually just a one time repair that will strip out over time.  NCRS member Joe Calgagno used to market a metal repair kit that was a fantastic solution to the problem but I don’t think they are available anymore.  To make up this kit on your own is a real no brainer.  Obtain some real thin sheet metal from Lowes or Home Depot about 1/16th thick and cut it into pieces approximately ½ inch by 5/8ths inch and then drill two small holes for small rivets that will attach the metal pieces over the bad door panel holes.  You could skip this rivet step and fiberglass the metal pieces to the door panel.  With this repair you are now putting the door panel screws into metal and not a weak fiberglass repair.  I do this all the time and it works just great.

**********

I have a 54 Corvette vin number E54S003218, car has a top flight award but, major deduction was for engine block stamping. (Stamping improper, insistent?)
casting number, 911
casting date, C114 march 11, 1954
engine stamping, 04I95I7 F54YG My guestion is what date should the stamping be.
Per Corvette Birthday Book, Production date is 5-27-54.
Any help is appreciated.
Rick

From Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  

Hi Rick'
     I have a '54 S/N 3329 which came with engine S/N 0727180. Mine was built in June '54. So, your dates look correct, however, the engine S/N would have been assembled approximately in March '54 based S/N's listed in Noland Adam's book and should have an engine S/N around 070XXXX, not 0419517. There are some production sequence abnormalities which can be explained since some cars have been found to have the original engines built 1-3 months before the car build date. All engines were run up on a test stand before installation. If there were any leaks, noises or other abnormalities, they were sent back to assembly for correction and when repaired, put back in the cycle. Obviously, this could take time. My current engine S/N is 0434847 which was assembled in about April of '54.
Hope this helps,
Bruce Fuhrman 

**********

 

 

Hello,
As I continue my search I realize there is huge amounts of wrong info being
posted on the web.............damn.
Stamped to the engine block-passengers side front on block F1018EB-I have found out(I think) what most of this means-F=Flint-though another web site said that Flint V-8's were designated with a V. 10-Oct.? 18-18th day?-EB-E=Corvette?  but what is the B for? I am so confused;and tired of asking.
Appreciate any help that you can offer.
                                            Thank You,
                                              Dan

From: Mike McCloskey, SoCal Advisor:  (You need to) Buy the NCRS judging manual!

From: Doug Prince, Socal Advisor:  Your engine was built in Flint, MI. October 18th and the engine is for a 283 c.i. passenger car with dual four barrel carbs and solid lifter cam that was 270 horsepower.  1958 Corvette engine codes for fuel injection was as follows:  CR 250 horsepower hydraulic cam with manual transmission, DH 250 horsepower hydraulic cam with Powerglide transmission and CS 290 horsepower solid lifter cam with manual transmission.  Sorry to tell you that you have the wrong engine block!

Dan,
 
It is not possible to determine what your motor (block) came out of without knowing the casting # and casting date of the block. Your decoding of the F1018 is correct.  However, EB is a suffex code that was used for several years and indicates the following applications.
 
1957                     283     passenger car  270hp
 
1958 thru 1961    283     passenger car   turboglide with 4 barrel carb
 
 
The only thing I can say with certainty  is that your block is not original to your car.
 
Chip Werstein

**********

Hello, 
 
I was changing my axle bearings and pulled the ham out (not a limited-slip), to flush out the rear housing when I found one of the side carrier gears with chip damage to the outer end surfaces of the teeth.  
Upon close inspection, it seems that none of the other gears have evidence of related damage and so wondered if this gear may have been used by some unscrupulous previous owner to patch up the differential for resale??
 
Anyway, I wouldn't mind finding a compatible 3.70 differential assembly to prepare as necessary for my car and wondered what other Chevs used this same unit.
 
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Ger

From:  Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

These rear ends were used in 56-62 Corvettes, 55-64 Chevrolet, 62-64 or65 Chevy Nova.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

I'M FINISHING RESTORATION ON A 1960 AND NOTICED THAT ABOUT 18" FROM THE BACK OF THE FRONT FENDERS A HUMP ON TOP OF BOTH FRONT FENDERS OF THE CAR.
I TRIED ADJUSTING THE BODY SHIMS BUT THAT MADE NO DIFFERENCE,DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS THAT MIGHT HELP ME CORRECT THIS PROBLEM? I HAVE CHECKED WITH OTHER OWNERS IN THE AREA AND THAT PROBLEM IS NOT VISIBLE ON THEIRS. THANKS---RON

From: Mike McCloskey, SoCal Chapter advisor:  Shim the front bumper brackets so you are not pulling rearward on the body when you tighten the bumper bolts. 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Ron,
 
I suspect the reason you have not received a response to your question is that it is impossible to identify the problem without seeing the car. My guess is one of the following:
 
1.  18" from the rear of the front fender is the point where the inner fender is bonded to the outer fender. The bonding material can cause a line across the fender at the bonding point, but not a "hump". I see this problem on 56-57 cars , but  not later ones.
 
2.   A front end may have been spliced onto the car at this point and poor body work may have resulted in the hump.
 
I doubt shimming will solve your problem. I would carefully inspect the front end fiberglass for prior repair work to help identify the cause of the problem. The easiest solution most likely will be sanding/grinding the area smooth and repainting the front end.
 
Again, I am only guessing. A competent Corvette body shop can provide a more definitive answer.
 
 
Chip Werstein

**********
Hi

I am having trouble with my brake lights working intermittently.  I know the problem is in the steering column where the turn signals and horn all come together.  However, I can't get it adjusted where the brake lights work and the horn doesn't sound when I turn the wheel.  Do you have a solution to this problem?  I'd welcome ideas for how to fix this problem permanently.  I've had this worked on multiple times.  It works for a while and then the problem returns.  Thus, I'm always worrying that the brake light aren't working.

Thanks for your help.

Jo

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor:  If you are using the original cancelling cam mechanism it is probably completely worn out.  Buy a current reproduction but KEEP the original cancelling cam spring as the spring that comes with the repro is Chinese and is not nearly as strong as the original and will not cancel the turn signal after the turn has been performed.  Be sure that you are using a new reproduction turn signal switch and make sure that all the connections are nice and tight at the steering column.  Be sure to clean and lubricate the cancelling cam wheels that are in the turn signal housing.

**********

Hello,

 1962 Corvette Headlight Switch.  How do you get the knob out of the switch? 

 I have a new switch and the nut wrench to get it out of the dash.

 Thanks,

 John

From: Max Brockshouse, SACC President:  Reach up under the dash, feel the light switch. on the top will be a small button with a spring holding it out, press the button down while pulling out on the knob, this will release the knob/rod assembly.  The knob rod will be three sided with a grove on the end/tip.  Use a LARGE screwdriver to remove the bezel on the out side of the dash, this will allow you to remove the light switch assembly.  To replace the knob into the switch, hold the button while inserting the knob, otherwise the rod will not seat in the switch assembly.

**********

Hi,
  I am restoring my 1960 Corvette rims. Is the entire wheel painted the same as the body color?
Frank

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Frank,
 
1960 Corvette wheels were dipped in semi gloss black paint. Then the front of the wheel was painted body color. Body color overspray can (and should be) seen on the backsides of the wheel.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

 

**********
I am restoring my 59 (owned since 1970, off the road for last 25 years, 77k miles) and have done a lot of reading/research (including much of Noland Adams guide and the Baird/Howey handbook). Today's questions (among the many) are about the suspension. First, the consensus appears to be to replace the coil springs BUT other than NOS (haven't looked for them yet) do all the replacement springs cause the front end to sit too high? Second question is, is there a way to evaluate the original springs or do I assume (as appears to be the case) that ALL 50 year old springs are now sagged somewhat and should just be replaced. Final question, is there one supplier that is most recommended for these front end parts, hopefully made in the USA?? Thanks, Barry

From: Mike McCloskey, SoCal Advisor:  Most original springs have some sag.  Check the assembly manual for front end curb height to determine how much sag your springs have.  All new springs, in my experience, are too tall.  There are many original used springs out there for your car from guys like David Sokolowski, 310-329-5334. Hope that helps.  Mike

**********

I have a 1962 Corvette 340 HP with a 4 speed tranny, I need to change the tranny oil and I have a couple of questions.
 
I noticed 2 plugs on the right side of tranny one low and one slightly higher, I'm assuming the lower is drain plug and the higher is the fill plug, is this correct?
 
Should I use Valvoline Synchromesh fluid or stick to 90w oil, I have read the specs and noticed that the 4 speed tranny has sync on all 4 gears, I'm assuming that they are brass due to the age of the car, what is the recommended fluid?
 
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Thanks
 
Robert

From: Mike McCloskey, SoCal Advisor:  You have the plug arrangement correct.  Fill until it runs our of upper plug...about 2 1/4 pints.  Unless your trans is shimmed tight and is difficult to shift into 2nd when cold I'd use the 90 weight (or 85-140).  If its a tight trans, use the GM manual trans fluid (more like 30w).  Mike

 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

yes, the lower plug is the drain plug. I have always used 90 wt gear oil and never had any problems. However, I do live in S. Calif. and never have to deal with cold weather which may make a difference.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

 

 

**********
I have a block with casting num. 3756519 and engine code num. FOI28M could you tell what its out of? thanks, frank

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:

3756519 is a 283 block from 1958-1962.  Suffex "M" indicates 1958-1962 trademaster truck with manual trans. "F" indicates the block was cast in Flint, Mi. and 0128 is the build date........Jan.28. Can not identify the year without the block casting date.

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Do you have any parts blowups or rebuild information for a washer pump assembly for a 1961 corvette

 Thanks for your help

 Ray

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

To the best of my knowledge, the only person who has parts and rebuilds C-1 washer pumps is Tom Maxwell     301-948-9481    tmax61@msn.com.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hi Folks,
I have a 59 corvette which has a sealed air cleaner.  How does one go about properly cleaning it?

From: Brad Bean, Vice President of SACC:  Not sure about others, but I have an early '60 which has the same sealed air cleaner. Once every few years, I soak mine for a few hours, in kerosene and then rinse and flush it with clean water. Seems to work for me.

Brad

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

 A friend has a 1958 corvette that has been painted more than once. He wanted to know what the factory colors might have been. I found a website " corvette history 1958" in their article they said the 58s had a code plate on the engine side of the cowl. This had body identification, production build date and paint and trim codes. Now this has lead to some disagreement as to if it is there or not. Evidently it is not on his 58. Could you tell us if it is true?

 

thanks Jim

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Jim,

 The trim plate exists, but the first year for the factory installed trim plate was 1963, when it was located under the glove box door next to the serial number plate.

 There might be a hidden body color name in the trunk area. Remove the large cardboard panel in the front of the trunk area. Near or under the right trunk hinge the body color was written using a large lumber crayon (usually green). The name was covered by overspray when the trunk was painted. Using a quarter, scratch away the paint to reveal the color name. Ivory means white, but red, blk, blue, or char (charcoal) are obvious.

 Good Luck,

 Noland Adams

From: Bill Herron, Treasurer of SACC:  While the passenger cars & trucks did have the data plate you refer to, production Corvettes did not have any info attached anywhere except the Serial Number plate until 1963.  The only ways I know to determine the original color are to: 1) find an inconspicuous area and carefully remove the layers of paint until you get to the last one; and/or 2) take a quarter and lightly scrape the paint off of the trunk side of vertical divider panel between the trunk and decklid compartment.  Many, if not most of the 58-62s had the body paint color written in grease pencil there.  Note that (I believe on the later Solid Axles) the color might have been scribbled on the vertical panel in the passenger compartment behind one of the seat backs.  Since the color was written in grease pencil the paint would not adhere; hence a careful scraping usually reveals the color.
 
Bill Herron

**********

My generator on my 1960 restored Vette has no numbers, obviously a replacement. Is there a way to get it stamped??
 
Thanks,
 
Charlie
 
From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  
Corvette generators have a aluminum tag which is stamped with the part # and assembly date and rivited to the generator. Any of the Corvette parts suppliers should be able to provide you with a tag. You will need to give them the horse power and serial # or assembly date of your car for the tag to be made correctly. Note that the old rivits have usually been broken off by a rebuilder and you may want to have another rebuilder install the new tag to avoid damaging the generator.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

**********

How do I tell original paint colors on my 62'.
Thanks in advance.
 
Joe

 

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Long story short; take the passenger seat out, then scratch gently until you find green wax marks under the paint.  It will have your paint color the Corvette left the St. Louis plant spelled out.  Also, look in hard to reach areas inside your Corvette for spots that have never been repainted over the years.

 

 

 

**********

Hello,

 I have a 62 that will not start. When I try to start the car there is nothing, no clicking sound, nothing. I have replaced the battery, starter, starter solenoid, ignition switch. The wiring harness is about 5 years old. I am stumped. What can I do next? Is there something I am missing? I sthere some test I can do?

 Thanks,

 Ron

 

From: Bill Herron, SACC Treasurer:    

I guess the first thing I'd ask is does anything else work?  (ie headlamps).  If nothing works I'd start with the battery cables and trace them back (neg for proper ground & pos for proper attachment) and work my way further as necessary.  If you have working lights I'd be looking at the starting wiring circuit even though you've replaced some things - reproductions sometimes are not as well manufactured as the General's originals.
 
Bill Herron

 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Assuming the starter, solenoid, battery, ign switch and STARTER HARNESS are all good, I would do the following......simple stuff 1st. If the simple things don't fix the problem I would assume that one of the other components in the starting circuit is defective.
 
* is there a battery shut off? They can be defective or wear out and when they do you will get nothing.....no clicking or anything. Remove it and connect your negitive cable directly to the battery.
 
*Check the negitive battery cable ground .......it should be connected to a starter bolt @ the bell housing and should be clean and tight.
 
* Check the starter harness @ the ignition switch to confirm it is pluged in correctly..........it is possible to plug it in so that one of the 3 prongs is not engaged.
 
* Check for power at the solenoid......if no power you have a bad battery or cables.... and starter switch....no power would indicate problem with starter harness.
 
* if you have a remote starter switch, you can bypass the ign switch and harness......if it turns over the problem would be in the switch or harness.
 
*We have a member here in S. Calif. who had the same problem..........turned our to be a bad battery. Check the battery with a voltmeter........it should read about 14 volts
 
Any competent repair shop could most likely resolve this problem quickly. The C-1 starting circuit is quite simple and the shop would have the right tools to analize the problem. I would be interested to hear how your problem is resolved.
 
Chip Werstein

 

**********
I have completely restored my 1958 corvette with a 285 fuel injection system.  The engine was purchased and rebuilt in Tilton, NH and the fuel injection was purchased from Jack Podell.  We first had a problem with the exhaust overheating and Jack suggested that we advance the timing.  We did and it fixed the exhaust overheating problem.  Now the engine starts fine and runs well until it gets hot.  Once the engine gets hot, it runs rough.

I don't know what to do.  My life savings are in the car.

Regards,
Jerry

From:  Doug Prince, Fuel Injection Tech Advisor, SoCal Chapter of SACC:  My name is Doug Prince and I am the fuel injection technical advisor for the Southern California Chapter of SACC.  I have well over 30 years experience rebuilding and restoring Rochester Fuel Injection Units so I think I know a little bit about them.  Jerry Arcaro references a fuel injection unit that I do not recognize as his 1958 Corvette should have either a 7014900 or 7014900R fuel injection unit depending on whether it is a hydraulic cam 250 horsepower car or a solid lifter 290 horsepower car.  That said retarded ignition timing will cause the engine to run poorly and cause the exhaust manifolds to run extremely hot.  I have seen them turn red from heat and apparently Jack Podell was able to steer him in the right direction by advancing the ignition timing.  Starting up cold and running good and then running rough after warm up could be a function of a number of problems.  If the automatic choke and fast idle assembly is not working properly the fuel injection will continue to run in the cold start mode and the fuel meter will continue to be in full rich position and the ratio lever will be on the power stop.  One must observe that the ratio lever leaves the power stop position and then swings over to the economy stop position. Running rough after warm up could also be that the economy stop is too rich.  Another cause could be that the idle mixture screw is out of adjustment and is too rich.  Turning it clock wise will lean out the idle mixture.  The Chevrolet ST12 Service Manual has an excellent section pertaining to fuel injection and trouble shooting.  Jerry may have to rely on some outside expertise.

**********

Hello,
Although I am not a member yet...but will be shortly, I wonder if you could answer this question?
 
I recently completed a frame off restoration on my very low mileage, garage kept, 59 Vette. All work was done by me. While putting the original rear bumpers back on the car, I noticed there was a date stamp on the inside of each bumper in black ink. 
The stamp reads APR 22 AM. It would have appeared to me that this would have washed off over the years but it hasn't. It is a low mileage car and I am the 3rd owner and it's always been garage kept. I have all documentation and receipts (including copy of the original title and the original Bill of Sale) back to the original owner and am confident these are absolutely the original GM issued (not re-chromed) bumpers that came on the car and the car has never been in an accident. In all the restoration books that I have ever read, I have never seen mention of these date stamps. (Could this be a new discovery?) The APR 22 is obviously the date but I don't know what the AM stands for unless is was the morning shift...I don't know. Has anyone seen these date stamps before and can you shed any light on them? I have pictures attached. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
P.S. I posted this question on the NCRS website but had little or no response. Have you ever heard of these date stamps? I wrote to Bob Beard who wrote the 1958 to 1960 Corvette restoration & judging book and he had never heard of these date stamps. He asked that I send him pictures to be included in his next book, which I did. Any info will be very much appreciated.
 
Thank you. 

 
Wayne

 

**********

I have a 1954 corvette and am getting it ready for NCRS judging September 16 and 17. My wiper arms may not b correct. They have TRICO with the letters smaller on each side and numbers as follows 2668725-2691186 CAL 1942-48-52BR. 546431 ad other patent pending numbers.

Thanks for your help,

Tommy

From: Bill Herron, SACC Treasurer:  The date stamps on your pics look quite a bit like the ones I've seen on the instruments in my 56, 57 and 58 over the years.  I feel that those date stamps are correct and original, given your car's history.  It doesn't surprise me at all that for the most part they have not survived the passage of time.  What's the serial number of your car?  I'll bet that the assembly date was May, 1960 or later.

 

 

 

 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Chevrolet dated many parts for traceability purposes. I have seen date stamps on trunk and deck lids ( under the hinge), door posts, speedometers, clocks, door panels, frames and wiper motors,  but never on bumpers. Living in S. California I have had the opportunity to see/inspect many original, non rusty cars over the years and have attempted to take note of unusual markings etc. Sorry I can't confirm that the dates were put on by the factory or vender, but it certainly could be the case. You didn't indicate the Vin # or build date of your car...........it must have a build date after April 22 ( May, June, July) if the stamp is original.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

From: Bruce Fuhrman, Secretary of SACC:  

Hi Tommy,
    I have a '54 with what I believe are the original wiper arms. I looked at the drivers side info. It has the following:
"TRICO"- "SOME OF PATENTS. 202 0244 214 2146396.......... ends with 2564819. CAN. 1936-38-42-43-45-49. BR. 470652.......PATS PEND. MADE IN USA" All this info, except the TRICO requires a magnifying glass to read. I believe the NCRS judges may only verify the TRICO and a series on very small #'s??? 
Good luck,
Bruce Fuhrman

 

 

 

 

**********

Hello, I was wondering if anyone could tell me what width Crager rims and size BFG radial T/A tires will fit my 61? I want to keep a 15" diameter.
Many thanks.

From: Bill Herron, SACC Treasurer:  

I have 6" rims (not Cragar but Kelsey-Hayes/Buick Skylark wires) and 215-65R15 radials with no rubbing problems to speak of (assuming "normal" driving, but don't ask Doc H about that...) on my 57.  I believe your 61 has better rear wheel well/body clearance so you might be able to fit an even wider rim - BUT - I would be concerned with 1) front wheel clearance with anything wider and 2) proper rear springs so there's no body interference.
 
Bill Herron
#229

 

 

**********

I would like to know if it is possible that a July dated starter #1107233 2 g 23 be use on
a early 1963 corvette? help will be greatly appreciated. thanks

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

According to NCRS, all 1963 Corvettes used srarter # 1107243. 63's used a different bell housing (than 62's) which did  not have holes for starter bolts. All 63 starters bolted up into the block. I believe it is possible to change the gear end of the 62 starter so it would work with a 63 bell housing.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Can you provide a source for a quartz movement for my 60 Vette clock?
Also, instuctions on the job wouild be appreciated.
 
Thanks.
 
Dennis

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

I have used VALLEY VETTES ( Mike Poirier) in San Diego for many years. He is a very nice guy and his work is outstanding.......and a quartz conversion is very reasonable. 619-461-1952
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Since I’ve had the car, my ’60 trunk lid has always been sitting about ½” high at the driver’s side front edge. I thought at first it was just the way things are with the fiberglass body, but it’s starting to bother me now. Looks like someone may have overloaded the trunk at some time and forced the lid down, bending the horseshoe shaped hinge bracket. Is that possible?

The deck lid and passenger side trunk lid fit as well as can be expected, weatherstrip is not the issue. I can’t find any method of adjustment other than shims at the bottom of the hinge tower, but that would affect the nice, flush deck lid as well and besides, couldn’t make up ½”.

These hinge brackets look too sturdy to bend without breaking a lot of other things. Have you had experience with this? Suggestions?

Thanks,

Herman

 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal advisor:  

I would suggest buying a trunk/deck lid shim kit from one of the Corvette parts suppliers. There are three bolts on your drivers side trunk lid hinge........insert 2 shims in the bottom bolt.........it will make the top of the lid "dive down". A 1/2 inch is a lot to make up, but if this helps and does not create fit problems elsewhere you can continue to shim until the problem is solved. Worst case scenario....you will improve the fit. Good luck.
 
Chip Werstein

 

 

 

 

**********
Just a quick question. I have a 1961 Corvette and it may need a camshaft replacement. If the radiator assembly is removed, will the cam come out without pulling the engine out?
 
Thanks,
 
Dale

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Dale,
 
The simple answer is yes. But,you must remove the intake manifold, drop the front of the oil pan, remove the water pump, front engine support and the timing cover. Be sure to support the front of the motor because the 4 bolts holding the water pump also support the engine.

 

**********
Hi I need to replace a set of  seat covers on my newly acquired 1960 Corvette, any recommendation on price and quality please before I get it shipped to Australia.

 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  You can purchase the correct seat covers from Al Knock ( the manufacturer) ,Corvette Central or Paragon reproductions. The all come from Al Knock, but Paragon will give you a discount if you ask.

 

 

**********

I am wanting to restore the C-1 steering gear box in my 1962 Corvette and I was reading an article on how to do so.  It mentioned in the article that there were special tools required but never said which ones they were or where they were used nor where to obtain them. 
 
Could you assist me in this area? 
 
Regards,
 
Darrell

 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Darrel,
 
I have rebuilt many steering boxes over the years. I have never replaced the upper bearing race because it requires a special tool to remove the old one....and no one has it. All other bearings and races are easily replaceable using common garage tools. There are three hard parts to this job.........removing the steering box/ column from the car, cleaning the steering box and re instalation. Be sure to buy the upper column bearing and the 3 column seals. NOTE.....the firewall retaining plate only goes on one way. If you reverse it, you'll be removing the column again. I speak from experience. I always adjust the rebuilt box on the bench by feel. I don't have an inch pound puller. Once it is in the car, I readjust the sector to my liking. There should be a little drag in the center position. Good luck.
 
Chip Werstein

**********
Need a little help.  I’ve had my baby for 38 years.  Recently found some brittle wires in the ignition and under the dash wiring.  Replaced the whole thing with the correct colors and gauge wire.  When I removed the wires from the back of the Ammeter, I found that they were divided evenly between the right and left posts.  My wiring diagram shows that the black 12g from the battery terminal on the starter solenoid connects to the left post (viewing from the firewall) and the other four red wires are connected to the right post.  Another reference says exactly the opposite.  I’m inclined to go with the diagram from Chilton, black on left, red on right.  Any advice on my gut instinct will be greatly appreciated.  I’m anxious to get hooked up and start rolling again.  Thanks, Howard

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Howard,
It should be black on the right and red on the left looking from the firewall.If you connect it backwards you won't hurt anything. The gage will read in reverse. Is there any reason you didn't purchase a reproduction starter harness instead of building your own? Good luck.

**********
can you tell me what rear ends were available on a 62 vette? and my 62 has power windows , how can i tell if they are original or have been added?  thanks   Don

From Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Don,
 
250 and 300hp cars came standard with 3.36 open rear end. 3.08 was available with a 4 speed.
 
340 and 360hp cars with 3 speed got the 3.36 open as well.
 
340 and 360 with 4 speed got 3.70 open as standard and optional 3.08, 3.55,  4.11 and 4.56.
 
positraction was available with any gear choice and 3.55, 4.11 and 4.56 were available in positraction only.
 
 
995 62 Corvettes came equiped with power windows. Original switches have rounded corners and later switches have square corners. Also there should be a metal conduit between the door and the door jam to shield the power window wiring and a 40 amp curcuit breaker mounted on the fire wall above the heater with 12 gage red wire coming from the power window harness to one side and a similar wire connected to the other side of the breaker going to the starter motor.
 
Hope this info helps.
 
Chip Werstein

**********
First of all,I have really enjoyed the Corvette Restoration & Technical Guide. Can you please make some comments about the amount of allowable sterring wheel play. I"am restoring a 59. I have the body  off and I"m well on the way, but I do not know what extent to go on the sterring box because when I drove the car the sterring was not bad except for the little bit of play. Also I do not know what lube to put in the box?  Thanks for the help.  Eddie

From Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Inspect the gears for damage and wear......minor damage will create steering problems. Both the sector and worm gears should be convex.......NOT CONCAVE. Concave indicates significant wear which you may or may not be able to adjust out. If the gears look ok I would replace the bearings and seals ( I don't replace the upper race because I have never  figured out how to remove it) The C-1 corvette shop manual ST 12 explains the rebuild and adjustments in good detail. I use 680 weight gear oil in my steering boxes.
 
Chip Werstein

**********

Dear SACC:
 
What can be done to improve the handling on our curvy and hilly highways in Hawaii?  I have a ’58 with newer leave springs/2-inch lower block/urethane sway bar bushings/replace gas shocks in year 2000, but I hope to keep suspensions stock. 
 
Thanks for the tech help.
 
Aloha,
Eric

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Eric,
 
You could add radial tires, slightly wider wheels,a 60-62 rear sway bar, 59-62 traction bars, a fast steering adaptor, front wheel roller bearings, change the kingpin bushings to roller bearings( a shop here in S. Cal does that) and disc brakes. But you will still have a 53 year old car with 60+ year old suspension technology. In it's day, the 58 was probably the beat handling American car built.
 
Chip Werstein



**********
Hi

I'd like to know the birthdate and place of my 58 Vette. Number J585106771. can you help?

Bob

From: Max Brockhouse, President of SACC:
Your 1958 would have been assembled 7 May 1958.

Max Brockhouse SACC President

 

 

 

 

**********

What can be done to improve the handling on our curvy and hilly highways in Hawaii?  I have a ’58 with newer leave springs/2-inch lower block/urethane sway bar bushings/replace gas shocks in year 2000, but I hope to keep suspensions stock. 

 Thanks for the tech help.

 Aloha,
Eric

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  Hi;  If you have the original type tires on the car it will never handle very good.  Switch to Radials and a 20575R15 tire.  If it still does not handle the way you want it to go to a 6 inch rim.  There are several aftermarket wheels on the market ( watch the back set as it is critical ).  Also look back about 4 years in the Club magazine for a article on wheels written by me.  It uses a 6 inch wheel with the radials.  The handling is amazing. Should be about $500.00 + or - ready to mount tires.  If you have any questions contact me.  Enjoy the car. Thanks Larry

 

**********


What is the routing for heater hoses on a 60? Does the ¾ go under the motor/waterpump mount or can it run along side it without getting into the belt? A picture would be nice. All of the diagrams I’ve seen are not very clear. Thanks Gene

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi;  The hose goes in front of the motor mount.  What I do is use a black zip tie and tie it to the radio ground strap from the motor mount.  This works great as it will get into the belt if not done.   Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

 

**********

Hi
 
I am a member. Hope you can help me. My gas gauge always reads full, so I replaced the sending unit on the gas tank. It is still reads full all the time. I can change the gauge, but I'd like to be sure that I need a gauge and it's not a grounding problem or something else. I thought I read somewhere the fuel gauge had something to do with the turn signals? I have changed the turn signal cancelling unit. It seemed about this time the gauge started to show. fill.
 
Any ideas?
 
Thanks, Bob

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Bob,
 
1. check for power at the gage...... pink wire with ignition switch on .(note: there is no power going to the sending unit.)
 
2. check for loose connections at gage.
 
3. Check brown wire at sending unit to make sure it is not touching the black ground wire,
 
4. Check for instrument cluster ground wire @ instrument housing....usually attached at the speedometer bezel attaching screw, drivers side.
 
5. Check for main harness ground wire .....black wire, white stripe....at left valve cover.
 
 
If it still doesn't work, the problem must be the gage. Valley vettes in San Diego can rebuild it 619-461-1952. Good luck.
 
Chip Werstein

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer os SACC:  Hi  First check the fuel gauge in and of itself.  You have a hot wire and a ground wire.  Determine which is which and remove the ground wire.  Then make sure the terminal is clean and run a jumper wire direct to the ground side of the battery. If then the gauge still reads full then either the gauge is bad or a connection is bad from the sending unit. Next activate the turn signals to see if it has a incorrect reading. in your steering column you may have a grounding problem.   Grounding is a real problem in these older Corvettes.  Check all grounds.  Good Luck  enjoy the car.   Thanks Larry

**********

I would like a softer ride for my '62.
Is there a shock absorber that you would recommend?
 
Thanks.
 
Ken

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:

Ken,
 
I use current issue AC Delco gas shocks available from any good auto parts store. They are black and look original and give a very nice ride. However, new shocks will not compensate for damaged or worn out front/rear springs or other suspension parts.
 
Chip Werstein

**********
Hi,I would like to know if the steering column and steering box can be removed from the car , and how do you get out? I have a 1957 corvette and my steering box is going bad.Is this something that can be done in the car ? Thanks JIM

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Jim,
 
I have been attempting to research this question. I am familiar with this job on 58-62, but 53-57 is much more complicated. First of all, the steering box can not be rebuilt in the car. The column and box must be removed as a unit. I always remove the left exhaust maifold and the pitman arm from the box to provide more clearence.
 
Once the box is loose at the frame, firewall and dash, you must slide it forward enough for the column to clear the dash........this is not as easy as it sounds because there is interference at the inner fender..........and it still may not come out. I have been told that the radiator and grill must be removed so the box/column can slide out thru the grill opening, but I can't confirm that. Also, be aware of the column opening in the dash as it is VERY easy to crack or break it during removal and installation.
 
I have done this job on two 57's, but the body was off the frame both times. It was still a very difficult job and I did not come thru the grill opening. I suggest you contact a couple reputable Corvette repair shops to research the job more before you jump into it. I would be interested to hear what you find out. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
 
 
Chip Werstein

**********

Recently, I purchased a Leaf spring re-build kit from Corvette Corner, for my '61 Vette. The instructions indicated that a "Signode Banding Tool / SRC-5823" was to be used to crimp the bands around leafs.  My research on the SRC-5823 is that it is a 5/8" single reverse notch joint type.
 
If I could find one of these to rent I would, but I refuse to pay full price for a new one. 
 (~$400)
 My questions are:
  1. is a single reverse notch joint type correct for the band?
  2. can another type and/or model number of banding tool be used?
 Thank you for any help you can provide!
 
Norm

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor:  

Norm,
 
The SRC5823 is the correct crimping tool for C-1 rear springs. Any truck suspension repair shop should have one...........or any company who uses 5/8 metal banding for strapping . I bought one from a local construction supply house........not a Signode, but it looks/works just like it. Another friend of mine found an SRC 5823 cheap on ebay.
 
If you are attempting to restore your springs to NCRS standards with stainless steel bands, the crimping is the easy part.The bands which are sold by the various Corvette parts suppliers are too short....and they know it. Once you wrap it around the spring, there is not enough material remaining for the tentioning tool to grab and pull the strap tight. It takes me, 2 helpers with homemade tools to tension and crimp  the bands.
 
 
Chip Werstein

**********

Hello,
 
I was wondering if the 4 speed option for the 1959 Corvette was available from day one, or they produced only 3 speed cars initially.  Mine was built on December 18, 1958.  I do not have the original transmission and didn’t know if it would/could have come with a 3-speed or 4 speed.
 
Any help would be appreciated!

From: Bill Herron, Treasurer of SACC:  The 4-speed option for Corvette became available approximately April 15, 1957 (about two weeks after my 57 was built...), so all 59s could have had one.

 

 

 

 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Dane,
 
In 59 (and 58 for that matter) 4 speeds were available from day one as an extra cost option.
 
Chip Werstein

 

**********

Hi-
 
I am restoring a 1960 vette and have a couple of questions.
 
-is the steering column painted the same color as the interior in 1960?
 
-how do you repair the license plate lights that are attached to the bumper. There are rivets holding a housing that keeps the lens in position. In order to replace the lens, do I drill out the rivets and replace with new or can they be pried out.
 
Thanks in advance for any advice,
 
Jim

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:  The interior section of the steering column is interior color while the portion in the engine compartment is semi-gloss black.

The rivets will have to be drilled out and replaced. Make sure you have correct replacement rivets, before drilling out existing ones.

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hi,
 
I am looking at purchasing a 1962 Corvette  the info below has been provided:
 
1962 Corvette VIN # 20867S104263 Correct date coded 327/300 hp engine. Casting number 3782870. Date code K161. December 1961 vehicle build date. 4 speed transmission.
 
I am interested in it as a driver, but would like to know what all the codes mean.  As a driver any suggestions on what fuel to use?  87,89,93??  any fuel additive needed.
 
Thanks
 
Greg

 

From: Chip Werstein, Socal Chapter Board Member:  

Greg,
 
1962 Corvette # 4263 was built 12-19-61. The 870 block is the correct casting for a 62 327 motor. This block was cast 11-16-61 (K 16 1) which tells me it is most likely the original block. Use the highest octane pump gas available in your area with 1/2 qt. of aautomatic transmission fluid per full tank. This will prevent corrosion on the carb.
 
Chip Werstein

**********
Hello,
 
I was referred to your club in trying to get an answer to a C1 Corvette question for my dad.  He owns a 1957 Corvette and needs to replace the original tires, but would like to go back with something larger for better handling etc.  He (we) can't find anyone who can tell us how large of a new wheel and tire size setup he can put on WITHOUT having to make any modifications to the car.  Can you or any of your members possibly help?
 
Thank you, in advance, for your time and help.
 
Scott

From: Bruce Fuhrman, Secretary of SACC:  

I have just replaced my '54 tires with Diamond Back radial tires and am VERY pleased with them. The original size is the same as the '57, 670X15. I suggest you go on line and google Diamond Back tires. They have all the info you need to select the proper tire.
Bruce

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  Hi:  If you go back with the original bias tires it is not going to handle much better than it does now.  Coker tire has them. Better tire is a radial 205-75R15 and not the inexpensive ones.  Best is this about 4 years ago I wrote an article in the SACC magazine regarding a 6 inch rim. A back copy can be obtained for our editor. It has the correct bolt pattern and the back set.  Should run you $400 to 500 for a set of 4.  I have them on my 62 and the difference of handling is amazing.  The 205-75R15 is engineered for a 6 inch rim. Watch out for aftermarket rims as the back set may be incorrect.  Good luck and enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

 

From: Bill Herron, Treasurer of SACC:  

!957 Corvettes came with 5"wide x15" wheels as standard equipment; a 5.5" wheel was available with the heavy-duty brake option.  That being said, my 57 has been running 6" wide Kelsey-Hayes wire wheels (originally from a 1954 Buick Skylark) since circa 1963.  When I purchased the car from the original owner's widow 20 years ago the only change I made was adding 215.65R15 radials with only the occasional rear tire rubbing during hard cornering with a fully loaded trunk and passenger.  For your purposes a 205.75R15 radial tire should fit the original wheels and wheel wells with room to spare. (Note: radials make the car sooooo much more enjoyable to drive!)  If you're looking for newer rims be careful of two things: the offset (where the bolt holes are in relation to the rim) and especially the fact that non-Corvette 4.75" bolt pattern rims most likely do not have the bumps or dimples on the outer part to hold the stock wheel covers on - you might be watching a familiar hubcap roll by you!
 
"Sebring"Bill Herron

**********

Included with my 62 was a radiator that hopefully is the original.  the numbers in the cast inlet and outlet are: inlet is 3150896 and 01030 (looks like a date code) and outlet is 31560897 and 01031.  What is it for?
Pat 1277

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  Hi  The 62 Radiator is an aluminum cross flow and part number 3150916 the supply tank is number 3151016. If it is an early car ( before S.N. 5,000 ) the number will be stamped into the top of the Radiator to the left of center. Characters were about 1/4 inch high.  Form that point forward to the end of 62's they used foil label with the date of manufacture also on the foil.  Go back and check your numbers because you should have a 7 digit number ( last one has a 8 digit number.).  I have no idea what the numbers are from.  Good Luck  enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

 

 

From: Bruce Fuhrman, Secretary of SACC:  The 62 radiator is an aluminum cross flow style. Early cars had a blue& silver aluminum Harrison tag screwed to the top right hand side if the radiator with part # and date..........later cars used a foil tag glued in the same location. The cast inlet # 3150896 was used on both 61&62 radiators, however they differed in that the 61 inlet had a square boss on the top. The NCRS 61-62 judging manual shows this very clearly.

 

 

 

 

 

**********

 

I FOLLOWED THE ADVICE FOR THE LAST C1 FUEL GAUGE PROBLEM BY RUNNING A SECOND GROUND WIRE FROM THE DASH POD TO THE ENGINE BLOCK BUT THE FUEL GAUGE STILL READS 1/8 UNTIL THE BRAKE PEDDLE IS PRESSED, THAN IT READS CORRECTLY.  WHAT NOW?
PAT 1277

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi  I believe you still have a grounding problem.  (1) recheck your new wire from fuel gauge to the ground it must me a clean surface on both ends.  (2) move the ground wire from the dash pod to the ground side of the fuel gauge ( 3) Your brake lights may not be grounded correctly.  ( 4) check all grounds on the car.   The reason I still believe you have a grounding problem is that the fuel gauge works when it is grounded.   If none of these works contact me.   Thanks Larry

 

**********
Hi

Still waiting for my membership response .

I've recently had my 58 Vette tuned (283ci and 245 hp with dual 4brl carters and dual point distributor). New points,plugs,wires, condenser, rotor, dual points, all timed.

In first gear I"'m ok but when I get into second gear and hit 2500 rpm or 3rd gear at 3000 rpm or higher, the car chokes or hesitates.

I've been told by a local mechanic to replace the distributor and the carbs. I've done some additional research and I've been told it could the vacuum advance that needs to be replaced in the distributor.

I love the Vette but it's not running right. Can you offer some help?

Thanks, Bob

From:  Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  Hi;  First go to a shop that understands carburetor's and vacuum advances.  ( Not your average shop).  It could be any of the three or parts of the three.  You need to have a scope analysis first.  Let me know Thanks Larry

 

 

**********
Hi

I have applied for membership about a month ago but no response from the club yet. Hope to hear soon. However that' s not the point of the email.

I have a 1958 corvette. My parking brake or hand brake or emergency brake ( pick a name) is working but the red dash light stays on all the time. I checked and there's a switch mounted with a bracket on the shaft of the bake itself. It very old probably original. As easy as it is to find replacement parts for the Vette, I've checked every Corvette catalogue as well as diagrams of the hand brake and there's no switch to be found. Am I missing something?

Any information you have I'd really appreciate it

Thanks, Bob

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  Hi:  The hand brake has a switch attached to the top of brake handle rod under the dash.  It is about 1 inch wide, 1/2 inch thick and about 2 inches tall.  It activates the light on the dash.  Try Corvette Central they should have one.  If not run a wanted ad for the switch.  It is easy to install.  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********
I am in middle of restoring a 1960 (# 00867S103804) Corvette. I have recently purchased a restored 1960, no rust, rolling chassis. I have some more body work to do but am starting to consider the paint. The car was Roman Red / Ermine White when I bought it but careful check shows the original color was Tasco Turquoise / Ermine White. I plan to return to the original color. My question is: aside from the external color combo, how do I find out the rest of the paint colors such as engine compartment, trunk, wheel wells, whether there are unpainted areas on the underbody of the car, etc.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  Hi  In the engine compartment the colors are various shades of G.M. Semi Gloss.  All the parts were assembled after painting ( no paint on the bolts). Hence the various shades.  The trunk is painted the same color as your car. Tasco Turquoise and not very good ( on the top of the wheel wells will show little or no paint.  The Wheel wells are painted G.M. semi gloss ( the splash pans (front) were painted then assembled.  You need black under coating on top of the wheel wells under the car.(Quote) and not very neat.  The bottom of the body under the car has no paint and should show raw fiberglass, and no evidence of paint.   Noland Adams has a great book out that you need to purchase.  Also buy the NCRS judging guide for the 58 to 60 cars. Good luck  Thanks Larry

**********

I have an original 1957 inside mirror that has an S stamped on the shaft.  What does that S mean?

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Lynn,

GM bought parts from many sources. Most parts had a manufacturer’s identification mark on it. I used to know the names of the mirror manufacturers, and I think there were two in the fifties. Look on other pieces and you may find a logo, or a number or letter or two. It’s a matter of quality control- send GM a faulty part and you’re blacklisted.  Before he retired, I knew a Chevrolet Engineer who could look that information up for me.

 -Noland Adams

**********

Would I be right in guessing a September 1961 build on my 1962. VIN is 20867S100651.  Thank you.

 Michael

From: Max Brockhouse, President of SACC:

Build date for #651 would be September 18, 1961.  FYI, only 20 cars built that day, the last  number was 654.

 

 

 

**********
Max,
A while back you helped me with my birthday, I am ready to stencil my car and Quanta recommends my build date at
6-18-58.
I consider your date as correct, can you confirm.
Thanks again for your great website and tech advice!

Steve

From: Max Brockhouse, President of SACC:
Go for it, my notes say the last car built June 18, '58 was #7963.  The last car built June 19, '58 was #7991.  The last car built June 17, '58 was #7934.

Max Brockhouse, SACC President

 

 

 

**********

Hello i am doing a body off restoration on my 1958 Corvette and i know the vin numbers are on the body and the chassis but the engine does it have the same numbers on the engine as the body or should they be different and also how would i Join your Club also?

 

Thank You

From:  Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi;  The vin numbers were not stamped on the front engine pad until early 60.  You should have only one number on the engine pad.  It starts with F then the date it was assembled and the engine horsepower code ( with the trans). Enjoy the car.  Larry

 

 

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Joe, This is a common problem with 1958 to 1962 Corvettes. There is one ground wire between the instrument cluster and chassis ground. The fuel level varies when one steps on the brakes (brake lights) and the turn signals are on. These extra electrical currents overload the ground wire, and you get a false fuel level. The cure is to add an extra ground wire between the instruments and chassis ground. Let me know how this works out.

Regards, Noland Adams


**********


I have a 1962 Corvette and did a frame off restoration. I replaced
all the wiring and put a new fuel sender unit in the gas tank. The
fuel gauge is original. The problem I have is that the fuel gauge
reads about a quarter of a tank low however, when I step on the brake
pedal and the brake light goes on the gauge reading is correct. Since
everything is new I am at a loss to what is causing this.

Thank you,
Joe

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi : This is a common problem on the cars. It is a grounding problem.

Double check your wires at the ground connection. Also you can hide a wire

going directly to ground. Enjoy Larry

**********


Hi,

> I recently purchased a 1961 corvette. Can you send me information

> on joining your club?  Can you tell

> me the date of manufacture for my car? The vin is 10867s106967.

From:  Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi: Your Vin indicates that the car was assembled in the first week of

April 1961. Have fun, Larry

 

 

 


**********
I think I am being 'jacked around' by a well known carb rebuilder.

What are the proper numbers for a 3059S Carb for 00867S104255,
Feb 26th 1960.

Thanks:
Bill

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi:  The Chevrolet part number is 3779178 ( with a low choke )  Hope this helps.  Enjoy the car. Larry

 

 

**********

 

 

**********

I am not a member, but I have a simple question:  What are the octane ratings for the 1962
Corvette, 327 Engine?  Do I need to run leaded fuel?  I am not sure of the horsepower, 270 to 300

 

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi;  If your engine is in good condition, I would add some lead to the fuel.  If the engine was rebuilt and has harden valve seats should be no problem, unless you are running it at high RPM's. Then you need lead.  I would add some zinc additive unless you have roller lifters. Your horsepower is either 250 or 300 with juice lifters.  Enjoy the car.  Larry

 

 

 

**********
Two questions, first, I am going to lift the body off the frame on my 61. should I remove the doors and brace the opening or can the doors just be left on the way they are. Second, I am going to replace my windshield, dash pad, and dash wiring, is there a recommended sequence or any tips? Thanks, A.J.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi; I would remove the doors and make a brace for each side to attach to the upper front hinge and the lock striker on the back. You can use theoriginal bolts to attach the supports. There is very little support on thebody through the center. I made mine form 1 inch pipe with welded flat steel on the ends, drilled to fit the holes, and the worked great. Adjust them to the exact opening of the door when the car is attached to the frame before lifting. This is the sequence I use. Remove the instrument cluster, center items, and right side grab bar. Then the windshield ( be careful as there are two bolts on each side to the back that are hard to get at) The frame and windshield come off together. Then what wiring you have remaining and them take off the old dash pad in about 1million pieces. On the installation of the new dash pad make double sure that you have the pad fit to the car before gluing it down. Both sides need to be installed for fit first. You will take off quite a lot of the foam backing for the fit. Make sure the end caps fit. The dash pad material goes under the windshield. If you have original wiring I would replace it all for safety. Good luck Larry

**********

I am the owner of a 1961 Corvette.  I am not a member yet however, I am in the process of sending in the application.  This club seems very worth while.  I have a question regarding two rubber seals that I purchased from a corvette parts supplier.  These are rectangular rubber seals which are supposed to be mounted on each side of the radiator somewhere.  They each have three small holes along the edge of the seals but I just cannot figure out where and how they mount.  I have looked at all the assembly books and manuals including Nolan's restoration book but I just can't figure out any details on where and how to mount these seals.  They seem to look like they might be used to make sure that all air is directed into the radiator but there is no indication of where to mount them.  Any ideas?
 
Mike

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi:  On your radiator seals, if you have an original radiator core support and the original fan shroud there are no side rubber seals on the 250hp and the 300hp cars.  Only the high horse cars had them.  The fan shroud was attached directly to the core support on the sides on these low horse cars.   Enjoy the car.  Larry. 

**********

Hi,

I found you on your solidaxle website.  I’ve got a question about a ’61 Corvette.  I am having starting problems and trying to remove the ignition to replace it.  What’s the trick to getting this out of the dash?  Is there a special tool and can I make due without it?

Any ideas are highly appreciated.

Thank you,
Jeff

 

From: Bill Herron, Treasureer of SACC:  

Jeff,
 
I believe your ignition switch is similar (if not nearly the same) as the one in my 57, so the removal procedure should be the same.  Take a paper clip and straighten out one end.  Place the ignition key in the ignition lock and turn the key all the way to the left, insert the straightened end of the paper clip into the small hole to the right of the key and push in (you may have to move the lock around a bit for just the right place).  Once you find it and push the clip in, pull the lock unit out using the key.  (At least that's how it's worked for me for the majority of my GM cars over the years.)
 
"Sebring"Bill Herron

**********

Question:  is it OK to have the pinion angle pointed upwards?  In other words is that how it should be from factory?  I have a ’58 Corvette with 2” lowering block on leaf springs, so driveshaft angle is a little sharp (maybe 6-degrees above level) at differential side.  Transmission angle is level.

  Aloha,

Eric

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Eric,

  Corvette transmissions in the fifties (like your ’58) were similar to passenger car transmissions, including Powerglide, 3 speed manual, and 4 speed manual. In a passenger car, the drive shaft was quite long. The transmission’s tailshaft (output) housing was longer, making the driveshaft a few inches shorter, which eliminated whipping of a long driveshaft. Corvette transmissions had shorter tailshaft housings because the front u-joint had an extreme angle. If a front u-joint was to be operated at such a sharp angle, the trunnions of the u-joint could jam against each other and destroy the u-joint. Chevrolet avoided this extreme u-joint angle by installing rebound straps just above each rear spring. If a Corvette drove over rough road (like a railroad crossing) the rear axle housing could only drop out of alignment a short distance, and the front u-joint never reached enough of a sharp angle to destroy itself.

  I can’t quite envision your u-joint angle as you described it. I would put the car up on a lift that has lifting points under the frame. Put the transmission in neutral and lift the car under the frame. Do not start the car while it is on the lift! The rear differential’s drop will be limited by the rebound straps or the leaf springs. Now turn the rear wheels and observe the operation of the front u-joint as the driveshaft rotates. If the u-joint has internal interference it will likely destroy itself sometime in the future.

  Get back to me if there is a problem, and perhaps I can help. You might want to remove the lowering blocks and get the rear springs rebuilt and rearched. If it were mine, I would improve the handling by: 1) remove the lowering blocks. 2) Have the rear springs rebuilt. 3) Install new Delco low pressure gas shock absorbers made for early Corvettes. These are the cheapest shocks available, and they work the best!

  Good Luck, Noland Adams

**********
Hello,

I was wondering if you could give me some guidance on removing the hubcap on a 1961 corvette.  I have a flat and want to change it.  It seems like it shoul be pretty basic, but I don't want to damage it while removing it.  thanks so much.
Steve

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Steve, I assume you are talking about the full sized wheelcover, as opposed to the small “dog dish” hubcap. The wheelcover is stamped from a thick alloy, so it thicker and heavier than it may appear. There is indented area around the outer surface of the wheelcover. The wheel itself has a number of raised “bumps” in its inner rim. These “bumps” are stamped from the inside, so they appear raised. The indented area in the edge of the wheelcover is forced over the raised bumps to install the wheelcover by tapping the edge of the wheelcover carefully with a rubber hammer. The wheel cover is removed by prying around the wheelcover with a large screwdriver. Go easy, as all you want to do is move the wheelcover over the little bump. Pry a little at several places until the wheelcover pops off.

  You are right; this material can be damaged easily, so proceed slowly.

  Good luck,

  Noland Adams

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi  Take a flat screwdriver and press it on the side that is easy between the cap and the rim.  Pry with the handle to loosen the cap, only do a small amount of lifting.  Then repeat the process several times, each time the cap will come a little further out. and you should be about a quarter to half way around the cap.  At this time the cap should come off. When you replace the cap put the cap with the valve stem first and work around both sides.  If you do have a soft rubber hammer, sit down facing the cap with your shoes off and use your  feet.  Make sure it is tight all the way around.   Enjoy the car.  Larry

**********
I have a 1961 corvette, the deck lid needs adjustment. The front part of the lid sets down about i/4 inch from the body. I do not have the weatherstrip on yet. Is there a way to adjust the lid by the springs? I have the car ready for the paint shop and wanted hood, doors and lid to fit good. Any help would be good. Jim

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Jim; First question is did the deck lid fit before the restoration? If it did it was the weather strip that held it up. If this is a different deck
lid that you have a different problem, either way you will need to make some
adjustment. You need to shim up the lid between the springs and the lid. It should fit correctly before painting. The weather strip should be soft so
that the lid compresses it to make it water tight. Be sure to check the
lock to make sure that everything fits before painting. Good Luck Enjoy thecar. Larry

**********

First of all, thank you very much for your extremely prompt reply to my earlier inquiry regarding bare 327 CSB, casting code 3782870, casting date A152, stamped FOII8RJ.  Unfortunately, I neglected to include the VIN for the car I am thinking about using this bare block for in my earlier request for technical support.   

  I have been told that my 1962 Corvette, VIN:  20867S105822, was assembled at the Saint Louis , MO assembly plant on 01/23/62.  Can you verify that build date?

  Again, thank you very much for your assistance.

  Respectfully,

  Wayne

From:  Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Wayne ,

  To determine a Corvette’s birthday I use The Corvette Birthday Book, compiled by Dennis Moore. Dennis has taken all of the known production dates and service bulletins and produced a 1953 to 1982 Corvette production date calendar. Your previous owner must have used this same reference, because I came up with the same date: Tuesday January 23, 1962.

  Now, let’s get that ’62 running!

  Later, Noland

**********
Last summer my dad gave me his 1959 corvette. When I was a kid it was our everyday car. It has been sitting for 10 years and I am trying to get it running. what I have found is that things have been modified. The engine has the generator mounted on the left side instead of the right (i believe it is a 1963 vette engine) the voltage reg is also on the left and not the right. my question has to do with the fuel line. I noticed the metal line runs from the back to the front of the car but was disconnected and replaced with a rubber line that goes from the sending unit to a cylinder (possibly an electronic fuel pump) mounted on the frame under the passenger seat (with an electrical wire going "somewhere") from there the rubber line goes to the fuel pump on the block then of coarse to the carb. is this normal?

  Speaking of fuel, do i just run regular unleaded when I do get it running?

  Thanks,

  JR

From: Noland Adams, Founding president of SACC:  

JR, before I recommend a grade of fuel I’d like to know more about your engine. Unless it’s a high horsepower engine with high compression and solid lifters, regular unleaded will perform well for you.

  The addition of an electric fuel pump mounted under the passenger seat is certainly unusual. Normally the metal line runs from the tank to the fuel pump, where a special flexible line is attached. Then a metal line runs from the mechanical fuel pump up the front of the engine to the carburetor. Perhaps there was a problem with vapor lock, and the electric fuel pump was added to eliminate that situation. The fuel pump wire is probably connected to the ignition switch so that when the ignition is on the fuel pump is working. If the fuel line doesn’t leak, and the electric fuel pump works, it should run okay even if the mechanical fuel pump is bad. If you have any fuel starving problems I would replace the mechanical fuel pump.

  If you want to return the fuel system to an original type system you can refer to the Restoration Book I wrote (expensive at $75.00 postage paid) or get a copy of the Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) for about $20.00. AIMs are available at your favorite Corvette parts sources like Corvette Central or Corvette Stop at 530) 677-4270.

  I hope this helps,

  Noland Adams

**********

I stumbled across your site and although not yet a member would like to put out a call for your technical assistance. I just recently acquired a bare 327 engine block that I am thinking about installing in my 1962 Corvette that the former owner said was produced on 01/23/62 based upon the VIN.  It currently has no engine in it.  The engine block casting number is 3782870, with a casting date of A152.  The block has an assembly code stamped on it of F0II8RJ. 

  From the casting codes, I suspect that this block can be used to build a reasonably correct motor for my car since the block was cast on 01/15/62.  I believe that the stamped assembly code indicates that this block was cast in Flint and that at least a long block was assembled on January 18, 1962, but I don’t know what the alphabetical suffix, “RJ” means.  BTW – There is no VIN stamped on this block in front of or around the assembly code and no evidence of tampering such as milling off a previous VIN.

 

My gut is telling me that this may be a factory replacement block that was special ordered by a dealer for a warranty replacement installation or sale by their parts department, but that is just my gut talking to me.  What does the RJ suffix mean?

  Any sage opinion would be greatly appreciated.

  Very respectfully,

  Wayne 

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

Wayne , let’s start with what we know. You didn’t include your ‘62s serial number, so we’ll accept Jan. 23, 1962 as the car’s assembly date. 3782870 is the correct block casting number for a 1962 or 1963 327 cid Chevrolet engine. The casting date of A152 identifies the block being cast at the grey iron foundry in Saginaw , Michigan on January 15, 1962. The engine number F0118 means the engine was assembled at the Flint V8 plant on January 18th. Actually, the two ones in the date should be the capital letters “II”. We’ll get to the “RJ” suffix later.

  A calendar of events would show: engine block cast on January 15, 1962

  Engine assembled in Flint V8 plant on 0II8, which means January 18 (1962)

  Your 1962 Corvette was assembled in St.Louis on January 23, 1962

  A time line check shows 3 days between the 15th and the 18th, the minimum time between the foundry in Saginaw and the engine assembly plant in Flint . The time from January 18th to January 23rd is only five days, normally not enough time to send the completed engines from Flint to St. Louis by rail. However, we have documented cases where the St. Louis assembly plant was low on new engine assemblies. In those cases, truckloads of new engines were shipped overnight from Flint to St. Louis . There was even a couple of times where 3 pallet loads (18 engines) were sent by air rather than shut down the Corvette assembly line. So even the short period of five days was enough to get the engines to the assembly line on time.

  Now we come to the engine number suffix “RJ”. I have several reference books that list engine number suffixes and their combinations of equipment. The suffix “RJ” does not appear in any 1962 or 1963 list. By being assembled on January 18 (0II8), we know the engine was being built for a Chevrolet of some type to  be assembled in late January or February. I bought a new long block Chevrolet engine in 1960, and its engine pad was unstamped. I had to go to the nearest Chevrolet dealer to get it stamped, and they wouldn’t even let me watch! So I know that new long blocks came from the factory unstamped. But the suffix “RJ” remains an unidentified mystery.

  Bottom line: the dates on the engine would work for your ‘62, but the engine number would be incorrect.

  I hope this helps,

  Noland Adams

**********

I have a 58 283-290hp vette and have been considering replacing the 283 with a 350 to save the motor and to be able to drive the car longer distances and not have to worry about the engine. I know I can reuse the fuelie unit and distributor, but will I have to install an 097 cam in the 350 so that the unit works properly and how will that affect the 350's performance ? Also will the unit have enough air flow for a stock 350 and will it have to be recalibrated or is it ok as is ?

Thanks

Mike

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Mike, The 283 is a good engine, so I do not know why you would want to "save" it. If its internal condition is in doubt, have it rebuilt, which would include new rings and pistons, line boring the camshaft and crankshaft bearings, and having it carefully balanced. If any part of the 283 is questionable, then have the 350 rebuilt. You should be able to drive either the 283 or the 350 long distances without concern about engine failure.

If you use the 350, you would want to use a good moderate cam and solid lifters. Unless you intend to do a lot of racing or fast driving at open throttle, you will not need the 097 cam. Either the 283 or the 350 will give you plenty of power for driving on the streets at legal speeds. Since you will not be driving at full throttle on the streets for any length of time, I expect the 290 hp FI unit on the 350 will perform satisfactorily. However, I am not an FI expert, and such a person might recommend a recalibration of the FI unit.

Good Luck.

Noland Adams

**********

What is the proper way to clean a 1959 corvette sealed air cleaner?   Thank you.

 

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi;  There is no proper way.  This is what I have used.  After removal use lacquer thinner and apply a small amount from the inside to the screen then blow out with air pressure.  This takes a little time and may take several applications.  BE sure you let the thinner dry over night and blow out again.  Do not put back on the car if you can smell any thinner.  Be Careful.   Enjoy Thanks Larry

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Peter,

  The 1958/59 Corvette air cleaner was sealed, as you noted. There were never any instructions for cleaning the element; the only choice was to replace the entire sealed air cleaner assembly. I can’t imagine what Chevrolet’s engineers were thinking. Perhaps they would recommend scrapping the car when the air cleaner element became clogged. About all you can do is immerse the entire assembly in solvent, slosh it around, and then try to get the element back in its original position in the housing.

  The long term answer is to purchase a 1960 air cleaner assembly and use a replaceable paper element.

  Good Luck,

  Noland Adams

**********
I have a 1962 corvette.  These are all the numbers that I can read and they may not be right.  20867s103347 , 3782870, 17340.  It has a 4 barrel carter af b carb. 4 speed manual transmission.  I cannot make out the number on the head.  What can you tell me about the car.  Any information would be greatly appreciated. 

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Don, you don’t give us enough numbers to work with. 20867S103347 is the serial number of the car, stamped on a small metal plate spot welded to the steering column housing under the hood. 3783870 is the casting number of the block. I have no idea what 17340 means.

  We need 1) engine block casting date, located on the opposite side of the block from the casting number. It’s in small characters- today, January 19, 2011, would be shown as A191. 2) The engine number is stamped on a raised pad on the right front of the block, next to the end of the head. 3) Each head has a raised casting number and date hidden under the valve covers, similar to - but smaller than - the block’s casting number and date. 4) The generator’s part number and assembly date which are stamped in code into the main housing. 5) The distributor’s part number and assembly date which are stamped in code on a metal strip around the main housing.

  After we get this information, we will try to tell you more about your 1962 Corvette.

  Thanks for asking,

  Noland Adams

**********

After several months I am still trying to find out some history on my 62 ser #20867S100193.  Every time I start getting close, I seem to run into a wall. Or some one who is helping me passes away. I have good reason to believe my car was used in the route 66 TV series and would like to talk with someone that knows of any more of these cars or anyone that might help me in any way. I do not want to sell the car or capitalize from this. I just want any help I can get. If Noland Adams or anyone has any ideas or needs any of my information that I have so far, please let me know. Any help would sincerely be appreciated. Thanks so much Gary . Email sqrdeal@grm.net

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Gary ,

I’m sure someone keeps records of the Route 66 tv show, and the Corvettes that were used on the show. I don’t have any information about the show and the Corvettes, although I did meet both actors years ago. I did know a guy that kept records about the shows and the cars that were used. He died several years ago, and I don’t know what happened to his files. I have tried to come up with his name, and it seems his first name was Kermit. I suggest Ken Amrick run an article asking for information about the show and its cars. This is important to SACC members, and I’ll bet a lot of members aren’t aware of the old Route 66 Show and its impact on Corvettes.

Good Luck, Noland Adams

**********

Gentlemen,

 I am restoring a 1961 corvette and was searching the web for an answer
to a problem and discovered your tech page. The problem I have is
when the body is off the frame, the driveshaft angle is too steep and
the universal joint binds on the yoke and will not allow the shaft or
rear wheels to turn. The rebound straps are not installed and the
engine and transmission are in the frame. Are the rebound strap
 required to keep the axle high enough to eliminate this, due to noT
enough weight on the frame since the body is off, or is there another
problem? This is my first corvette and would hate to have a serious
problem after getting it on the road. The car had no engine or tranny
when I bought it, and I installed a '63 corvette 327 w/ 4speed muncie
 and drive shaft that came from a running 1957 vette.
Thanks for any help you may give, 

Travis

From: Bill Herron, Treasurer of SACC:  

Travis,

You're absolutely correct about the rebound straps; they are there to keep the rear axle travel from doing just what's happening to your chassis. The driveshaft angle is rather severe from the factory (due to the x-member frame design) and there's not much room before it interferes with something. That's also a reason for the extended length yoke - to allow for the severe angle without coming off the transmission spline. Drop a spare engine block on the rear of the chassis (we all have one lying around in the garage, right?) or better yet, connect the rebound straps  Hope you have fun and drive it when it's done!

Bill Herron

**********
I'm not a member but hope you can help me. I have a 62 with the 327 340 HP engine. It is always overheating. Pulled the radiator and had it checked. Replaced the thermostat. Replaced all the hoses. All shrouds are in place. Any thoughts?  Thanks.   Bob

From Doc Hollada, website editor, Midwest Regional Rep:  Bob, you might decide to join SACC.  It is easy, simply while at the website, click on Our Membership, download the application form, which is a pdf file, then send it in.  You will enjoy the club magazine, On Solid Ground, plus the other advantages of membership.

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Bob,

  There could be many reasons for overheating
 
1) What temperature thermostat is in the cooling system? I like a 180 degree thermostat.

2) Check the timing. It may be as simple as a retarded distributor.

3) I like Prestone, which I use at a 50 percent ratio; half water, half Prestone. This is the best coolant ratio for the transfer of heat, plus the corrosion inhibitors in the coolant are activiated at the 50 percent ratio.

4) Make sure your fan is mounted in the right direction. Seriously, I have seen two restored solidaxle Corvettes with the fan blades trying to blow air through the radiator. And they were both overheating!

5) It’s obvious, but check the belts for conditions and the correct tension. You may want to remove the water pump and check the pump impeller for unusual wear or missing vanes. Perhaps the coolant is not being pumped fast enpugh.

 

Good Luck,

 

Noland Adams

**********

Hi,   
I have a 1961 Corvette s/n 10867S110063. I'd like to find out the date of manufacture and how the car came equipped. Some of the reproduction parts I would like to buy for it are listed as "late or early 1961". Would my car be considered late or early, as they don't give any serial number breaks.
I'm also trying to find the vin stamping on the frame. I've tried cleaning the frame and looking with a mirror but have had no luck. Do you have any tips on doing this short of lifting the body off the frame? I'm looking in the area under the drivers seat.
 
Thank you for your time, Mike

From: Max Brockhouse, President of SACC:  

Your 1961 was born in St. Louis on September 5, 1960

 

 


From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi, Serial Number 110063 is a very early production 61 ( first week of September 1960)( 6th to the 9th).  The car could have left- over 1960 parts ( GM most always used up the parts from prior years). So any late 60 or early 61 will work on your car.  Remember, when you buy the reproduction parts most have slight difference's ( some very major) from the original. The fit and function should be OK.
On the frame stamping even if you pull the body you may not find it.  Rust on the top of the frame eats away at the numbers.  These numbers generally were not stamped very deep.  Look forward and backward from where you are looking and you may or may not see them.  I have looked at a bunch of frames with very little rust and most are not readable. Their is no easy way to lift the body a few inches without doing everything that is required for a full body off.  Thanks and enjoy the car  Larry
Hi;  Sorry, I am late on this as we were gone for a while.  On your numbers lets put a , in the vin number.  They started with 100,000  and your car is 100,063 ( first week of Sept 60) The last number in Sept is 101,052  Car number 110,160 was in fact made in June.  This should clear this up.
On the options your car came with it is very difficult to tell.  You can tell it was a fuel-injected, all the rest were carbs.  If you have the original engine the last two letters on the engine build date stamp ( front of the pad) will tell you.  If the original engine is gone you are out of luck.  3 or 4 speed if it was changed who knows. With a automatic there will be some special brackets on the frame.  On the tops do you have the back latches on the deck lid if so are there one or two sets. On power windows if the door panels are changed, who knows.  The more your car has been restored at, without the original paper work you will never know.
Hope this helps.  Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

 


**********
I bought a true basket case 1958 corvette. when I say basket case I mean no frame ,no front end ,no any thing. It now has a fram & frontend along with a lot of other used parts but the thing I cant find is a vin plat & title. this car was in a field broken apart & left to rot.it is now ready for paint etc. do you have any suggestions were to purchase a vin plate & title for a 58,59,or1960 vette ?I would get a reconstucted title but I cant get antique plates with one. please help !!! 
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi:  You will need to check with the Department of Motor Vehicles in your state, generally you car will need an assigned vin number and it will receive an assembled title.  In my state it works like this:  You take all of the receipts and the car ( either on a trailer or drive it) to DMV.  They want to know where you acquired the parts, and if any original or assigned numbers are on the parts.  All assembled and or kit cars in my state cannot get antique plates.  ( They can here after the car has been registered for 30 years).
I wish you good luck in your project.  Thanks Larry

**********

Hello,
I have a 54 that I have slowly been restoring and I got to the point where I need paint. I was able to find paint code numbers easily enough and I can get polo white without any problem. Sportsman red is another story. Even though I have a PPG code as well as a Dupont and Valspar code no one seems to be able to mix it for me. I have been to several auto paint specialty stores and they tell me the PPG code doesn't work on their paint mixing machines. I was wondering if others have had this problem and would you have know where I could purchase Sportman Red in a single stage urethane. Or is there another Chevrolet red that is the same as Sportsman Red. Any insight into this issue would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Mitch

From: Ken Amrick, Editor and Publisher of On Solid Ground:  

Hi Mitch,
I have found a company on the internet at www.tcpglobal.com that has color formulas back to about 1900.  I have been purchasing from them and they haven't let me down yet. The last time they found and mixed a rare springtime only color for a 1958 Ford product that no one could mix locally.  You won't find the '54 corvette colors in their color library. So email "Jimmy Chips" and tell him what you need. He mixes the hard ones.  Look around on their site and you will see how to email him.  They can mix PPG or lesser price/quality Restoration Shop paint. I have purchased both paint lines depending on the quality of car I'm working on, and found both very good. Prices are also better than I can do locally most of the time, even when adding in the shipping cost.   They mix anything you want...acrylic enamel,  single and two stage urethane, or acrylic lacquer. Good luck,  Ken Amrick

**********

I recently bought a 1959 chevy apache truck , it was said to have a 1958 corvette motor , I was wondering if you could verify this. the front engine tab says F0129D,  the rear engine casting no. is 3756519, The head casting no. is 3731539. any help is greatly appreciated.  thanks   AL

From: Ken Amrick, Editor and Publisher of On Solid Ground:  

Al,
The pad stamp indicates it was built in (F) Flint on (01) January (29) 29 and is (D) a 185 hp passenger car/truck motor 2v Carb and Powerglide - not a Corvette motor.  The casting number ...519 block was used on all 283 motors in 1959 (maybe late 1958) through I think about 1961.  You can determine what year the motor is by looking at the casting date. Look for it usually around the rear of the block. It will be a letter, then 2 or 3 digits. Letter will be the month cast. Yours will probably be L (December) or A (January) followed by one or 2 digits. That is the day of the month it was cast. And finally the last digit which is the year it was cast 8 (1958) 9 (1959) etc. 
The ...539 head was not used on the 185 hp engines. Those engines used ...537 heads and some other heads, but not 539 heads.  Either you read it incorrectly, or the heads were put on this engine later.  539 heads were used on passenger cars and some Corvettes in 1957. 
Hope all this helps.  If your truck was originally a Powerglide, this may very well be the correct motor, but not the heads.  Ken Amrick

**********

Greetings - recently replaced my biasply tires w/ Coker Radials... on 
a 1958 Corvette - problem is I keep throwing hubcaps...? They stayed 
on at all speeds for the entire season before changing to radials but 
 the rears can not make it 5 miles now without flying off and fronts 
appear loose too when I check them. I've tried differing combos of 
wheel/hubcaps and rebalanced assemblies several times etc. Is this 
common? what might I be able to do to rectify this as I'm at a loss & 
 just remove caps until I get to where I'm parking - quite a bother to  say the least!

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi; Your most likely problem is you wheels. Over the years your wheelsbegin to flex more and more. A hubcap that is attached to the wheel ( notthe spider or the center of the wheel) it does not take much to have it come off. Most likely you need new wheels. The 55 and 56 Car wheels are that 
same with some minor exceptions. There is a chance that one or more of your
hubcaps are sprung and will not stay on any wheel. If you lay the caps on a level 
surface they are not flat on the bottom, your cap is sprung. You have
 
a wall hanging. Enjoy the car Thanks Larry

From: Bill Herron, Treasurer of SACC:  

The original wheels for your Corvette had four "bumps" around the inside ofthe outer rim to hold the wheel covers on. If the wheels have been changedto "bumpless" wheels you caps will come and go as they please.
"Sebring"Bill Herron

 

 

 

**********

Hi I Have A 58 Vette, When I Put It Up On My Car Lift On The Passenger Side, The door gap gets wider by the door handle, opening up toward the front, if I put the car back on all tires the gap closes up, and I can close the door, if the car is on the lift and I open the door it will not latch, on the drivers side everything is ok, if I lift the car very slowly you can see the gap open, could tell me why you think this is happening, And what can I do To repair the problem, Thank You Jerry

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi;  The problem is your frame.  In a Corvette the frame was made very stiff with little or no flex, as all of the strength is in that frame.  While on the lift inspect the frame and you will find rusted parts that are very thin.  If it appears that the frame has several areas of problems you need a new frame. If the car has undercoating clean that off first.  It is possible to put a frame section in the car. but your Corvette needs to come apart to even do that.  It is not cheep ( ouch ) to do this repair.  Be very careful driving the car with this much give in the frame. Thanks Larry

**********

Ever hear of a 1960 Corvette early one that had 1959 Seat covers on it from factory

Thanks
Bill

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi;  That could happen, but it would need to be very early in the 60 production, possibly in the first 200 or so.  Take a good look at the seat covers and see it they have been replaced. Look at the bolts holding the seats to the car, if they have been removed.  Your question is why?  If they have someone just put the wrong year seats on the car. Enjoy the car  Thanks Larry

 

**********

Hi

I need to replace my windshield on my 1960. My first thoughts were to replace it myself, but I have gotten feedback that it is not as easy as it would appear. I did get a quote from one local corvette restoration shop. The quote seemed high ($1800) to me but there again I do not have any experience to compare it against. It does include replacing all the seals qnd a dated windshield. Does this seem reasonable? Does any anyone know of another source to go to? I live in Schenectady, N.Y.

Thanks

Rick

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi The cost of a new windshield ( date coded ) is about $600.00, non date coded is about $400. Now installation, in general you need to remove most of the dash to get the bolts that hold the windshield on,( they are under the dash.) Caution make sure you get the two on the back corners or you will need some repair work on the frame. The windshield and frame come off in one piece. Then the frame comes apart. You will need new gasket material to set the new glass into. then reinstall the windshield. The odds are great that the top will need adjusting to make the canvas fit correct. This takes an expert for the top. Time if all goes really good 6 to 8 hours, if problems will take a lot longer. Ask the shop if they have installed a  early Corvette windshield? If not go to another shop. Good Luck Thanks

Larry

 

**********

Hi there

I am a solid-axle Corvette enthusiast here in Germany.Unfortunitaly not too many experts are here arround to answer my following question correct. My Corvette has no matching No engine,because the engine is stamped with the following Number: :F07171787,casting nr is;3789935,which coud be a late 61 283 Block so far I found out: Questing; why does no suffix appears on the engine? .It looks to me that there is no manipulation on that number and that the engine shoud be made in Flint doest,n it,because of the ,,F,, in the beginning?. Can it happend that the factory(Flint)reststamped it after the engine wassend in for decking/resurfacing the engine?Thats what somebody in enginebusiness told me

Thank you so much for your help& answer!
greeting Joerg

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

Joerg,

Your Chevrolet engine with the casting number 3789935 is a 283 engine installed in various Chevrolet passenger cars and light trucks from 1956 through 1967. Near the end of 1961 production, the Corvette assembly plant was running low on 283 engines needed to finish out the 1961 production line. The 1962 Corvette line was to begin production with a 327 engine, so these available 283s was the solution to engine shortages in late 1961.

The engine number F07171787 means nothing. If the engine was assembled in Flint the engine number could be F07I7CQ (or another two-letter suffix code). Note that the "one" is shown in the date as a capital "I", not the number one. Just before the engine was installed in the chassis at the factory, it was stamped with part of the vehicle's serial number, as you indicated. I have been in both the Flint engine plant and the St. Louis assembly plant where I observed their assembly procedures.

It is possible that the partially built new engine was purchased through a Chevrolet dealer's parts department. Often those new engines were sold as a general replacement with a blank pad where one expects to find the engine number. I have seen cases where the Chevrolet dealer stamped their own code on the engine pad. Perhaps this is what happened with your engine.

If you send me the casting date from the rear of the block and I will try to figure out the details a little closer.

Good Luck, Noland Adams

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Greetings from the America. Your casting number 3789935 was used from about #9500 to the end of production in 61 only along with other G.M.Cars. Now the block stamping F is for flint 07 is The month of July and 17 is the date. ie The 17th of July. The last four numbers ( I have no idea) Since you have a 60 with a 61 engine the original engine is gone. The block also have the V.I.N. number stamped on the pad. Just enjoy the car. Thanks

Larry

**********

Hi,
 
I have a early 1960  # 690..it has a block cast of 3737739..were these blocks used on early 1960 vettes?
 
 thks Bill

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi:  The7739 Block was used through Very Early 59.  So it is incorrect for a 60.  Your car should have a 6519 block.  Your stamp pad either is blank or has a early assembly date.   Just enjoy the car. Thanks Larry

 

**********
I want to remove the body from the frame on my 61, where can i get a DVD or manual that shows the best way to to remove it and support it with out damage. A.J. Long

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

I am the wrong person to answer this question, because I host a body removal DVD, so I cannot reply without sounding like a commercial. Here goes anyway- send $36.00 check or money order to Noland Adams, PO Box 1134, El Dorado, CA 95623, and ask for DVD #3. This is a discounted price because I pay the postage. Or buy one from Corvette Central.

- Noland Adams

**********

How would I find out how many cars are exisitng prior to my vin number 20867s100442? Also locating the build sheets.
Thanks
Rick

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi;  To my knowledge there is no way to tell how many cars made in 62 even in existence today. However on the build sheet if you are a member of NCRS ( must be) and request the information, they may have it.  One of the items you should get is the dealer code, date shipped, etc. The cost for this service is $40.00. This information just came available.  Lets hope they can help you.  If not, and until G.M. finds more original data, with a lot of B.S.  Good Luck Thanks, Larry

**********
Gentlemen,
My 58 base engine is blowing oil out the oil filler cap and the crankcase vent tube, where do  I start?

Thanks again,

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi  It sounds to me like you need a total rebuild of the motor.  Take the car to a good motor rebuild shop and have them look at it.  Generally there is no quick fix  "ouch"  Good luck  Larry

 

**********

 


I have to remove the tachometer from my 1959 corvette for an overhaul. What is the best method to get that unit out of the dash? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bob=

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi; Here is the procedure

1. Remove positive cable from battery and remove and tag for identification all panel lamps and electrical connections.
2. Remove mast jacket lower cover and cover support.
 
3. Remove pressure line from oil gauge and cable from speedometer and tachometer.
4. From under dash panel remove five screws retaining instrument panel
assembly to dash panel.
5. Lift out the complete unit and unbolt the tachometer.
Good luck Thanks Larry

**********

Hi,

You guys are great!

I just joined and already have another question.

I had my local Corvette club meeting this weekend but did not get real specific information.

I am restoring my '60 from the ground up.  I have disassembled the entire back end suspension and am trying to replace the differential gasket since it leaks pretty badly.  I think that I cannot get the differential apart to replace the gasket because I need to remove the rear axles.

I have read the service manual and other manuals, but I guess I am not smart enough or experienced enough to comprehend how to remove the rear axles to get the front of the differential off to replace the gasket.

Am I correct that I need to remove the axles, and if so how can I do this?

I hope you guys don't get tired of me too quickly.

Thanks very much,

Tom Richards

From Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi:  In the Corvette Servicing guide on pages 4-7 through 4-17 is the complete instructions of how to take the rear axle apart.  It will show pictures and detailed instruction of how to complete this task.  Buy one of these books and follow the procedure.  You will also need some special tools.  Good Luck Thanks Larry

**********

I just got a 57 and was told that the 58-62 steering column would bolt right in and that they are 2 inches shorter that the 53-57. This would give me some additional room and be more comfortable for me, I want to drive it. Is this correct? 
Thanks, Jim

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  
Jim,
Yes, your information is correct. Enjoy your '57!
-Noland Adams

 

 

 

 

**********
Is there a good way to refurbish the leaf spring on a '60, or do I need to bite the bullet and buy new ones?

Thanks,

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

Tom,

  The rear leaf spring assemblies on 1953 to 1962 Corvettes are rebuildable. Just about every medium sized city has a company that rebuilds them. The spring assembly is taken apart, and the individual spring leaves are examined. Each leaf must have the correct shape (curve). In a process that I have not observed (brute force, maybe) the leaf is returned to its original arc. Then the leaves are heat treated to retain their shape and reassembled into the spring assembly. Special liners are installed between the springs to provide a smooth action. The spring shop will install a generic spring liner if you do not locate a replacement that looks like the original type of liner.

  Most spring repair shops are unable to furnish the correct exterior clamp. The clamp is a piece of steel bent around the leaves to keep them in alignment. Take photographs or make a drawing showing where each clamp is located and if the opening is up or down. Remove the clamp and keep it for replacement later, but use caution because it may require heating the clamp for removal and installation.

  Now that your rear leaf springs are rebuilt, paint them as needed (probably black). With original type of liners between the leaves, and the original clamp in place, I defy anyone to know that they’ve been rebuilt.

  By rebuilding your springs, you’ve also retained the dates they were built. Oh, yes, they are dated, and sometimes that’s an important factor in keeping the car original.

  As an aside, Delco makes a low pressure gas shock especially for 1953 to 1962 Corvettes. Several major brands also make gas filled shocks to fit 1962 and older Corvettes, but they contain too much pressure; your Corvette will sit higher and literally “ride like a truck”. Best of all, the Delco shocks are a lot cheaper. Any Delco dealer should have them.

  Enjoy your ’60!

  -Noland Adams

**********
I JUST REBUILT MY STEERING BOX AND IT SEEMS FINDING ANYONE WHO KNOWS WHAT TO FILL IT WITH IS QUITE A CHALLANGE. THE SERVICE MANUAL LISTS STEERING BOX LUBE WITH NO SPECS AS TO THE WEIGHT OR TYPE.I'M SURE SOMEONE HAS ASKED THIS QUESTION BEFORE BUT IF YOU CAN FIND A MINUTE TO ANSWER THIS IT WILL BE OF GREAT HELP. EVERYONE AT THE PARTS HOUSES,INCLUDING SUMMIT RACING IN AKRON SAY "THE BOOKS DON'T GO BACK THAT FAR",AND I CALLED LUCAS WHO MAKES A VARIETY OF LUBRICANTS FOR AUTOS AND THEY COULD NOT ANSWER THE QUESTION EITHER..THANKS FOR THE HELP---RON

From:  Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

Ron,

  The recommended steering box lubricant is medium weight gear oil, 30 to 50 weight. However, this will not work (poor lubrication) because it leaks out through the side cover gasket. The original gasket was very thin, and the mating surfaces were not perfect, so most 1953 to 1962 steering boxes leak. Buy a piece of gasket material about 1/16 inch thick (or more) and use a ball pein hammer to “cut” the gasket. With the new, thicker gasket installed, you can now use medium weight gear oil which will not leak. Do not use 90 weight gear oil, because it may not provide sufficient lubrication during cool weather.

Also, be advised that there may be other solutions to this problem as well.

  Cheers,

  Noland Adams

**********

Last night, when I went to put my trunk key into the trunk lock cylinder to open the trunk, the key felt like it does not want to go in all the way. Of course, the key will not turn to the right as (I believe) it is not "seated" all the way in, so it won't pop the mechanism.  There is nothing that I know of inside the lock and the key is not broken off (it's still in one piece). I tried some WD40 in there as well, but it feels nice and loose and will turn easily, it's just that the cylinder is malfunctioning and not allowing the key to enter all the way (I think).

 Is there a secret to "picking" the lock or getting the lock cyulinder out of the trunk without mangling the trunk area?  This car is a Duntov Award/Bloomington Gold car, so I am naturally beside myself with trying to get the trunk open without going crazy on it.

 Thanks in advance fo rany help out there!

 Bob Amon

From: Larry Richter, Foundign Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi;  If the key will not go in all the way you have a key-way obstruction.. Or part of the tumblers got out of alignment.  The lock in and of its self my be junk. You might try a very good lock smith, but be careful.
What you may end up doing is to drill out the emblem remove the back nuts and then you can turn the rod ( latch) and open the trunk. This way you can save the ring on the outside.  The lock may need to be replaced and for sure the emblem.  You are not the first one that has had this problem.  Good luck Larry


**********

I would like to change my 61's front wheel bearings to taper roller bearings. Do you have any bearing numbers or usage info, like are they  63 vette items? Thanks: Jack Flessner member 3232.

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  
Jack,

  The 1953 to 1962 front wheel tapered roller bearings are replacements for the original ball bearings. They are not interchangeable with the 1963 and later tapered roller bearings. I would try your local Corvette parts supplier or Corvette Central. If that doesn’t work, try a local source, Corvette Stop here in northern California . Their phone number is 530) 677-4270. This will improve your ‘61’s handling a lot!

-Noland Adams

**********

I have a 62 with a block no of F1121RD which would indicate a
327/300HP. The intake is numbered 3844459 which is a 63 number for a
 327/300HP. I have owned the car for 30 years now and finally in a
 
position to start a restoration. Several places on the internet have 
an aluminum manifold for the 327/300 in 62? I have also talked to 
 several other Corvette owners at local shows, and they say that may be
 
a possibility due to the late (Nov.) build date. What is the correct 
number to look for and where might I search for the manifold? Thanks 
in advance.

 Rick
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC: 

Hi; All 62 300 hp intake manifold were Cast, not aluminum. All the judging manuals state that it should cast. In NCRS Judging since is what we havegone by for many years, I believe that is correct. The correct number is 3799349. The sellers that have the aluminum intake ones for the 62, are just trying to sell you a part. You could always paint the manifold and a non judge would never know. Good Luck Larry

**********

Looking for info re; identify part ??

the part is connected to one side of the amp gauge , waxy cardboard looking  about the size of a index finger with another wire connector on the other end ?  part number I find looks like 72705682 , mine is not connected , probably has been there forever /  not sure what to call it , resister or filter of some kind ,

thanks for any help ,

Dave/MN

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi  The capacitor that goes on the ammeter battery lead, just goes to ground.  It is installed for the radio background noise.  The number is 7270568.  Make sure the capacitor is good before attaching it to ground,   Good Luck.  Larry



**********
I have a 62 with the 327 340 HP engine. I've had an ongoing problem with overheating. I changed the thermostat, pulled the radiator and had it checked and replaced all the hoses.

Any thoughts?  Thanks.
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi;  This problem could be several items or part of several items
1.  Check the timing on the engine.  It may be either too far advanced or not enough
2.  Make sure that the air is going through the radiator and not around the sides of the radiator
3   You way want to have the engine boiled out
4.  Have a leak down test on the engine when it is hot. It may have a head or block that is opening up under heat.
5.  Take it to a shop that can do a complete scope and generally something will show up.
      It may just take some time to find the problem.   Good Luck  Thanks Larry

**********
Dear Sirs:
My memory is shot, and it's tough getting old, but am I correct, in thinking that I can drop the steering column, on my 1961 Corvette, out though the bottom of the car, while it's up on jacks?
Sure seems like I did this back in the 70's, and the box needs going through again.
Thanks,
Jim
Member #3311

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

Jim,

  The steering column on a 1961 Corvette can be removed by rotating it and lowering it out of the chassis. I don’t think the jacks will make a difference, except it might make it easier.

  Later,
Noland Adams

**********
hi. I am not a member. but i have a question. i am trying to remove the speedometer cluster from a1961 corvette.ihave removed thetwo screws and the nut  from the cluster under the dash. but do not seem to have a lot of wiggle room to remove the speedometer from under the dash to replace the speedo needle. any help would be appreciated. also would like to have a membership application. thank you

From: Ken Amrick, Editor, On Solid Ground, and East Region Representative:  

I'm not aware that you can remove the speedometer from the dash without first removing the instrument cluster.  There is an article on tips for removing the instrument cluster in the Spring 2005 issue of our club magazine.  Back issues of the magazine when available can be purchased from the editor for $6.00 each. 
Because is is so difficult for most of us to fit under the dash to remove the attachment nuts, most of us remove the steering wheel and the seat assembly before starting on the instrument panel.  Some of the attaching nuts are located way back in the area where the windshield end post is attached to the body.  You will need a 1/4 inch drive with a swivel adapter to remove them. (I think there are 2 in this area if I remember correctly.)  It's not a difficult job, but it's not a pleasent one either.  It is hard on the back and a time consuming job.  Be sure to pad the steering column when sliding the instrument cluster out to keep it from getting scratched up.  Ken


**********
Where might I ind a accurate 1960 Corvette Radio Ground Strap Kit Diagram and description of each ground strap.
Thank You
Leland # 2768
From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Purchase an original assembly manual for your 1960 from either Corvette Central, Mid America or NCRS.  In it you will find diagrams showing where each ground strap is located.

 

 

 

**********

I have a 62 Corvette with non-matching number engine and transmission and I am not sure about the differential. I am ordering a transmission from Eddie Wass to match the car.  He asked if I wanted a close ratio or wide ratio transmission.  I am not sure what to tell him. I plan to find the correct block to put in a 300 hp engine.  I have most of the parts gathered up for that, except for an 870 bock dated late May or early June (I actually have two 870 blocks, neither have the correct dates though).  I believe the build date for my car was around July 6th 1962.

  I looked at the differential and the only things I saw on it are the numbers 3725899 and an E-157. Since I have the money saved for the transmission, I want to change that out first.  Do I tell him to build a close ratio or wide ratio transmission? If you need my VIN it is 20867S113613.

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

David,

  Your 1962 Corvette with a 300 HP engine was originally equipped with a wide ratio four speed manual transmission. The close ratio transmission was for the higher horsepower 340 and 360 engines. The intent was to keep the engine revolutions up when shifting between second, third, and fourth while racing.

  A Corvette driven on the street is much easier to drive with a wide ratio transmission. With a close ratio transmission, it will seem like you are always be starting in second gear. Even if it had a close ratio originally, I would recommend a wide ratio for normal street driving.

  Good luck with your ’62.

  Cheers, Noland Adams

**********

top will not go down enough i have to force lid down tight on corners on my 1959 corvette. what is the problem.  thanks dave.

Hi;  If you were able to latch the top in prior years, then it could be.
1- If you left the top down for any length of time the material shrinks, so set in the in sun for a day or two and it should come back.  Never leave your top down for any length of time. ( I put mine up and latch it every night.)
2 - Something has moved in your frame work. You may be able to tell at the attachment bolts on each side behind the seat.  You may need to call around to find a shop that understands an early Corvette top and have them adjust it.
3-  The front latches have moved.  It should fit tight against the windshield but these can be adjusted.
4-  The top pads are pinched in the frame work.  These belong on the top of the frame when the top is up
5 - If the top is very hard to latch, there is a good chance that you will pull the windshield out of the frame and this requires the windshield frame to come off.  OUCH. This is a project.
6 - The rivets in the frame may be loose and causing the frame to move around.  This will cause the frame to be rebuilt and new canvas put on.
 
If it is a new top take it back to the upholstery shop.  What happened is the top frame was not fit to the car before the canvas was attached.  They may need to get new canvas and start over. Very few upholstery shops know how to put on any convertible top.
 
Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

**********
I have seen Inca Silver 58’s with Black and also White side coves, which is the correct color ? I believe it is Black but is it possible that late 58’s could have had White coves like the 59’s did ?

Thanks
Mike

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi:  Silver was not a color on the early (first series) of the 58.  Silver was on the later 58's and the cove color was black.  Hope this helps.  Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

I  own 59 corvete serial #  J59 S100146
I AM TOLD IT WAS BUILT  SEPT 11 1958 THE CAR HAS A 350 IN IT AND I  FOUND
THE ORIGINAL CARBS 270 HORSE AND THE DISTRIBUTOR

WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR IN 1976 IT HAD A 283 2 BARREL
I NOW WANT TO BUILD UP THE CORRECT ENGINE THE TACH HAS A 6500 RPM  REDLINE
AND WHEN I PURCHASED IT IN 1976 THEY GAVE ME THE CORRECT MANIFOLD  IT WAS IN
THE TRUNK I  BELIEVE IT IS A 270 HORSE ORIGINALLY SINCE IT HAS  THE 6500
RPM REDLINE NOT A FEULIE

I  FOUND A 3756519 BLOCK BUT IT SAYS SEPT 58 SO THAT WON'T DO SO HOW  FAR
BACK CAN I GO AS FAR AS A CASTING DATE TO HAVE THE CORRECT ENGINE  SHOULD I
GO BACK 2 OR 3 MONTHS

THEY SAY THEY CAN RE STAMP IT AS A CU AND GET ME ON MY WAY BUT I WAS
CURIOUS HOW FAR BACK I COULD GO I'M LOOKING EVERYWHERE AND I DO WANT TO MAKE
THIS CORRECT SO I CAN GIVE IT TO MY CHILDREN ONE  DAY.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  Your car was a very early 59.  Now if the engine was assembled ( on the 
front right block pad) in Sept 58, or cast ( back of the block on the 
flywheel flange) and put into the car on or about the11th, it is almost 
impossible.  10 total days from final assembly in flint to placement in the 
car in St. Louis?  You really need a engine cast and assembled in mid August 
of 58 ( or before) to have it in your car.  You really need a 3737739 block, 
The 519 block may work as this was the change over in early 59 as long as it 
is a Aug cast date.
At NCRS most re-stamps are detected, as we read the broach marks and the 
stamp in and of itself. However some of the re-stampers and doing a better 
job. You need to obtain the original parts and have them rebuilt, as most 
reproductions have differences.
Just keep looking for a good block as one will come along.
On your tach the yellow line should start at 6,000 and go to 6,300 and then 
red from the 6,300 to 6,500.
 Keep enjoying the car and have fun.  Thanks Larry


**********

Hi gentlemen, I am looking for seat belts for my 1958. Any recommendations, how can I be sure that I am buying correct material color and hardware?
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:
Hi: 1958 Seat Belts are all the same. They are a gray four-web weave material with the potmetal handle painted in blue Hammertone. The Original belts had a chrome plated male end. It may or may not have "235" stamped on it. The belt with the female buckle had a Irving Air Chute tag attached with city and U.S. Patent # 2,458,810. Generally the originals have been found to have the female buckles in the outboard side. Comment: If you are not showing the car you may want to get close and save some money. Enjoy the car. Thanks Larry


**********

I'm looking for a pair of trunk spears for my 1958 Corvette. I would 
appreciate any suggestions on this subject. Thanks.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:
Hi:  The original trunk spears are hollow inside, therefore they are a lot 
lighter then the reproduction.  If you are looking at originals make sure 
they either have good chrome or can be re-chromed.  Not all shops can chrome 
them.  The reproductions are about half price of the originals or less and 
are solid.  What happens is the springs that hold the trunk up will not take 
the additional weight and you need a broom stick to hold up the trunk lid. 
The do make a kit to increase the tension on the springs that works well. 
Good luck and enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:
I see that Larry Richter has answered you, but I have some additional


information about reproduction trunk spears. There are at least four sources

 
for the reproductions. One company was located in 

Michigan

, but they stopped

 
making them, the last I heard. They had a quality problem, resulting in some

 
poor fitting pieces with a less than perfect exterior plating surface.

 
A more recent manufacturer was in 

Texas

. These reproductions were aluminum,

 
cast in 

Mexico

. The price was just a few hundred dollars, but the aluminum

 
was porous and it took a lot of work to prepare the surfaces for plating.


 
A machine shop located in 

Minnesota

 (as I recall) had a special guide made

 
for their computer guided milling machines. Because there are complex

 
compound curves, and the left is different from the right, a lot of

 
machining had to be done to a large aluminum billet. The result was an

 
expensive but perfect reproduction, ready for plating. The price for each

 
side was in the $1,300.00 to $1,400.00 range. Once again, this was for just

 one part.


 
Now that I think about it, I can't remember details about the fourth source

 
for '58 trunk spear reproductions. Maybe it was just three guys that made

 
them. They say the memory is one of the first senses to go. I'll miss my

 
memory- I wonder where I left it.


 
Good Luck, Noland Adams

**********
I'M WORKING ON A 1960 CORVETTE TRYING TO FIT THE DOORS ,THE PROBLEM IS THE PASSENGER DOOR MAKES STRANGE CREAKING NOISES AND I CAN'T SEEM TO FIND THE CAUSE.I HAVE REPLACED THE HINGES AND THE NEW ONES MAKE THE SAME NOISE.WHEN OPERATING THE HINGES WITHOUT THE DOOR ON THERE IS NO NOISE BUT AFTER INSTALLING THE DOOR THE NOISE RETURNS.I HAVE TRIED SHIMS IN DIFFERENT PLACES WITH NO LUCK,SO I'M AT A LOSS AS TO THE REASON FOR THE CREAKING NOISES.  THE DRIVES DOOR WORKS GREAT WITH NO NOISE...THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP WITH THIS MYSTERY---RON

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

Ron,

The only part that could make noises when one of the doors is moved is the hinge pins and bushings. The pin in each hinge has two bushings. First, I would try soaking the hinge pins and bushings with a penetrating oil. If the noise prevails, it is possible the pins and bushings are worn, but this usually happens to the driver’s door. You can purchase pin and bushing kits at Corvette Central or other reliable parts sources.   Good luck,

  Noland Adams


**********
Does anyone have experience with a Mallory 4264511 distributor as a replacement for an OEM unit in a C1.  This distributor has Corvette tach drive, magnetic breaker, vacuum and mechanical advance and wires up to the stock ballast resistor and a stock or high-output coil. (NOT a coil-in-cap HEI). The engine currently in my 62 is a Gen 1 350 with a dual point distributor and mechanical advance only a la 62 327/340 distributor.  Mechanical advance only isn't the greatest set up for street driving especially with an L46 cam(350/350) and a 3.55 rear so I am looking to make a change. 

Thanks for any input.

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Hal,

I’ve been watching your progress on getting the ’62 restored. I just wanted to wish to well, although I can’t help you on this distributor problem.

  Cheers,       Noland Adams

**********

First, you guys are great!  I'm sending in my membership this week.  I have another question on the windshield install of my '61.  It is in the shop and they tell me the lower channel is bent.  I am sceptical as everything looked great when the assy came off the car, and fit good when reinstalled six months ago.  I took it in because the gasket across the top had pulled out and got rolled under the top of the windshield exposing the outer edge of the windshield (probably from a too tight top install).  the car has never been hit near the windshild.  Have you ever heard of this phenomena and how would that affect fit across the entire top edge of the assy?
 
Thanks for being there for us.

From: Max Brockhouse, President of SACC:  
I bet the corners of your windshield tabs are broken off.  This will cause the weather strip to have a gap.  Send them to Corvette Central to have them rebuilt.  Glass installers back in the day would not remove the windshields, just pry them back to allow room to replace the glass and after 50 years of a soft top pulling back on the frame, they break.

 



**********

I am replacing a six cylinder Blue Flame engine back into a 1954 that had a V8 installed and need to find a repair manual or some kind of literature/diagram/photos that shows how this is done regarding placement of all parts, lines, wires, etc.  Can you recommend any sources?

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

Roger,

  There weren’t many repair manuals for Corvettes before 1956. The best reference is the book I wrote on 1953 to 1962 Corvette Restoration, which covers six cylinder Corvette engines in detail.

  Therefore this is a shameless advertisement for my book. It is available from me, Noland Adams, PO Box 1134 , El Dorado , CA 95623 . The book lists for $79.95, but I can offer it for $70.00 plus $5.00 shipping and handling. Send me a check or money order for $75.00; be sure to include any special message to go along with my autograph.

  Good Luck,

  Noland Adams

**********

Can you tell me what the standard shop time to replace a windshield in my 1961 Corvette should take?  (ie: what was the standard shop rate time expected from removal of the assy, replacement of the glass, to reinstallation in the car.

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  A standard shop should not be considered.  Best go to a Corvette shop that works on early Corvettes.  The window frame will have to be removed and is held down by a bolt about every 7 or 8 inches that is access under the padded dash.  If you are handy, best do it yourself as it will take most of a day.

 


From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi: Here on the west coast they allow between 5 & 7 hours at about $50 to $70 per hour.  On the early cars you must get under the dash to remove the windshield.  You can save a bunch if you remove the windshield with the frame ( they come off together). Be very careful of the bolts on the back corners as the are difficult to get out without breaking them off.  They can be brazed back on by a expert in welding.  Once that is complete you can remove the bright work around the glass.  Now is a good time to have it polished and any dents removed.  Try to find a shop that has changed a early Corvettes windshield before, or you may have problems that you never dreamed could happen.
You need a expert to re-install the glass in the rubber and get it to fit into the bright work channel and back on the car.   You need to check the top after replacing the windshield in the car to make sure your top fits as it should and check the door fit.   Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry


**********
Hello

I have a 1958 Roadster (Have owned it for 41 years now) I just got it back from restoration / paint folks. Putting back together. During the restoration, a new interior, including dashpad was installed. My problem: Brake lights work fine, as does turn signals. However, when I pull headlight switch out, even at parklight position, the brakelight rear light fuse  (10 Amp) blows. Headlights continue to burn. Could my problem be in the rear taillight housing, even if the brake and turn signal side still works? Any insight you can give me will be greatly appreciated.  Also, I am very interested in joining the solid axle Club.

Many Thanks

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

My guess is a grounding problem in the left rear taillight area. I would buy a bucket of fuses and try removing hot wires until the problem goes away. Then you have the faulty source surrounded. Another problem area might be the turn signal switch just under the steering wheel. If I had a 1958 to 1960 Corvette available, I might be able to duplicate the problem and thus provide a solution. Since I have never experienced this personally, I can only offer a thoughtful guess about the cure.

 

Good Luck, Noland Adams

                        SACC # 1 

Note from web editor:  If you would like to speak to Noland personally, he will be at our convention this summer.  Click on
'2010 Convention' for details.  To join SACC, it is easy, just click on 'OUR MEMBERSHIP' and print the application form.  Send it in.  Easy as that.  Hope you join us!
Jack "Doc" Hollada

**********

Can you tell me if there is a site I can go to that will give me the bolt

torque for a quick steering adapter and the proper installation

illustration?

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi : I have researched your question on the Quick steering and do not have an answer on the installation or the bolt torque. The best I can do is Section 9 in the Corvette Service Guide it gives the torque for the factory steering assembly ( page 9-10 & 9-11) This may be some help. Also perhaps Corvette Central would have some information. Good Luck Thanks Larry

From Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

In 1958 I had a 1957 Corvette with a 270 engine and a 3 speed close ratio transmission. I bought a quick steering adapter over the Chevy parts counter. That's been over 50 years ago, but it didn't come with installation instructions at all, as I recall. It was obvious that the tapered studs went into the tapered holes. The method we used was to tighten them as tight as we could. If the bolt or stud broke off, we backed it off half a turn.

Good Luck,

Noland Adams

SACC # 1



**********

Which other vehicle rear end housing will fit a 1959 Corvette without major modification?

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:
Any full size 1953 Chevy sedan.  In 1960 the Corvette rear end was changed.

 

 


**********

How do I remove the manual window regulator assembly on driver side?

Thank you,
Tom Richards

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of Sacc:

Hi: You need to remove the two screws holding on the arm rest assembly.  Then remove the handles and window cranks, You will need to remove the horseshoe clips holding them on from behind ( careful not to slice you door panel). Unscrew the locking knob. If you do not have the correct tool go buy

one. ( about 3 or 4 dollars) Remove all the screws holding on the panel.  Pull out from the bottom with your hands and lift up to remove.  Next remove the end molding on the top of the door and the outside top molding ( screws are on the inside) Do the same with the inside molding.  Remove the inspection plate ( big one bottom back and almost square) Thenput the window crank back on ( no clips required) and run the window up or  down until the sash retaining screws are visible ( one will be visible on the top front of the large inspection plate and the other one in the round  inspection hole about 8 or 10 inches forward from the inspection plate.  Remove these two screws.  You may need to pry up on the bottom channel to make the window loose.  The carefully remove the glass ( bottom channel still attached from the top  of the door.) Have some help and do not drop.  Remove the screws retaining the regulator and then from the car. Make sure you have the correct replacement before you put the old one in the garbage. Comments: Be sure to mark everything so you window will fit back in the same as it came out. Grease everything so it will work correctly especially the guide's and gear. Before you install the door panel make sure everything works correctly and the fit is correct.

Good Luck and enjoy the car. Thanks Larry

**********

Hello,
There are three set type screws at the pinion area of the diff. Is there a torque spec on these screws or is there a specific tightening instruction?

From: Larry Richter, founding treasurer of SACC:

Hi: The Corvette Service Guide states the following. Under Pinion Assembly
 #5.  Install three tapered lock screws and draw them down evenly and tightly, then tighten lock screw nuts.
 Note.  A statement in general states  " All bolts should be tightened to 40-60 Ft. Pounds."
If you need more data let me know your fax number and I will fax you several pages of the
manual    Thanks and enjoy the car.  Larry

**********

Gentlemen,

 Two Questions:

1. I have a posi rear end in my 1960 fuelie. I need to add some posi fluid. The person that restored my corvette stated not use new synthetic posi fluid but the "whale fat" posi fluid that the car was  manufactured with. Is this true? If so, where do I go to purchase this  type of "natural" posi fluid?

 2. Car has sat in my garage from late summer until now. When I parked the car for winter, everything worked  great. However, I started the car today and when the clutch is  depressed, it will not shift into gear. What is the possible problem  and solution? Thanks For the help. I'm stationed out here at Beaufort SC and there is not a "go to" place for classic corvettes in the area

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi; I would use the original type of oil with the additive in you possiunit. The problem is that the new synthetic type makes the clutches veryslick and may not work correctly. The newer units are built for thesynthetic fluid. G.M. dealerships should be able to get the product. If

not try the better parts stores.  On your second question. Is the clutch releasing so the transmission can go in to gear? If it is not rock the car in gear with the clutch depressed as the clutch is stuck. You may even try to turn the engine over with the battery in gear with the clutch pushed in. Be sure your battery is of full charge. If this does not work and the car is so you can start it in gear you may try to drive the car with the clutch pushed in, and hit the brake pedal hard, maybe several times. Be very careful and ready to turn the engine off if something happens. Perhaps have some one ride with you with the their hand on the key. Again be very careful. If the problem is not in the clutch then it is either a transmission linkage problem or an internal transmission problem.Please contact us if the above does not work. Good luck and enjoy the car.

Larry

**********
I just last week, joined SACC and thought I'd run a question by your tech "experts".
I've had my 1961 Corvette since the mid 70's.
It is a "correct" 270 HP car, and we drive the "pants off of it"!
During a recent tune-up attempt, I became extremely frustrated trying to obtaining a "set" of dual points that I could get proper dwell.  Several trips to NAPA and returning junk; even bent rotors.
At any rate, I deceided to purchase an Ignitor from Pertronix.
After a complete tune up, including plugs and adjusting the lifters, etc, I attemped to time the car.
I brought the mark to 12 degrees advance as I alway do, but it would barely idle.
After adjusting the idle, I took it for a ride and "no power" - extremely retarded!
I then timed it by ear, taking the timing mark past 12 degees and up to about 1:00 PM on the balancer; took it for a ride and it goes "like stink"!
I crawled under the car, took off the bottom pulley to check the balancer.
It was still "all lined up" with the key way, and not slipping within its rubber.
Emailed Pertronix and the tech person said my distributor needs stronger mechanical advance springs; that there is no resistance with the Ignitor but some resistance with the old dual points.
Put the light on the car again and reved up the motor and the mark stays at the same place, 2:00 PM - -   So "no advance"??!!
Ever heard of this?  Are they correct; I need my distributor checked for stronger mechanical advance springs?
Thanks for your input and help!
Jim
From:  Bill Herron, SACC Treasurer:  

Hi Jim,
 
I've had a Pertronix unit on my 57 since 1999.  I replaced the dual points and condenser with the (then latest) unit and basically did nothing else but drive the stink outta the car (just like you).  The only problem I had dealt with using the shorter "points" attaching screw when installing the distributor module; the screw loosened up after a multi-lap jaunt around Atlanta Motor Speedway (at substantially higher than legal speeds, I might add ~130mph!) and temporarily stranded me on I-75 at downtown Atlanta that evening.  I was able to diagnose the problem, replace the short screw with the longer "condenser" screw and have not looked under the distributor cap since.  I still keep the dual points, condenser (and short screw) in the trunk just in case!  Without referring to my records I am confident that I've put 25k+ miles on the car in the meantime, including trips to CA, MI, KY and IL all from FL and back.
 
In a nutshell, I haven't had problem one with my unit.  I did remove my distributor and had it checked on an old Sun distributor machine - it was in good working order.  Maybe you can find an "old school" shop in your vicinity that still has a Sun machine (and someone who can operate it)!  I hope this helps...
 

**********
Can someone tell me the thread size of a stock '57 corvette 4-speed shifter knob? Thanks, Ron.
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  The thread size is 5/16 -18  Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

 

 

 

**********


I need a vin plate for my 57 vette. It was lost when  it was painted. I have the title and have owned the car for 25 years. can you help, or tell where I can get one.  Cal
From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:  

I'm sure you are a very honest person with honorable intentions. Unfortunately, there are some not so honest people out there. And because of them, there are several people/companies who reproduce "cowl" and "trim" tags, but no longer produce VIN tags.

Over the years, I've discussed this with a few of them and all were very explicit about this point: if they make a VIN tag, and even if unknown to them it is used to disguise a stolen car, or defraud a customer about a car's true history, if discovered, they could be charged as an accessory.

I'm sure there is someone who provides this service, but sorry, I don't know who they are. However, if you search the internet long enough and follow-up with phone calls, you'll probably succeed in your search.

 

 

 

**********

I'm not a member, but I do have a ' 61 Vette that I'm trying to positvely identify the engine. The car is supposed to be a real F.I. car, and from all the published "signs" to look for it's the real deal. The engine nubers are as follows:
 
Casting #s at the rear of the block are 3756519----D99
Stamped #s on the front are F414CS, no other #s (VIN) are present.
 
The VIN on the car indicates it was built mid November 1960. From the research I've done, the block is the correct type but doesn't seem to be the correct year. Any help you can furnish will be greatly appreciated.
 
                                                                                                  Thanks in advance

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC: 

Don,
 
The CS engine is a fuel injected engine with mechanical lifters. I would check the left inner fender panel to see if there are holes which held brackets around the large air inlet hose to the air cleaner. You didn't provide your serial number, but you stated it was built in mid-November 1960, which means it is a 1961 with a serial number about 102500.
 
Your engine's assembly date is F414CS. The "F" means it was assembled at the Flint engine plant, and "414" means it was assembled on March 14th.
 
Now we go to the engine casting number 3758519 and the casting date code D99. The 519 block was used from 1959 through 1961. The date D99 means April 9, 1959.
 
In building a production calender, we have:
 
519 block, cast D99- April 9, 1959
engine assembly date F414CS- April 14, 1959
Your '61's build date- mid-November 1960
 
I have watched the production and assembly of engines and Corvettes at the Grey Iron Foundry in Saginaw, The Flint V8 engine plant, and the Corvette assembly line in St. Louis. There are two factors in identifying your engine. First, about one and one-half years elapsed between the time the engine was built and your '61 was built. The other is the lack of a serial number on the front engine pad. That means the engine was built at Flint, but was never shipped to the St. Louis Corvette plant. Instead, it was shipped as a long block to a Chevrolet dealer who ordered it as a special order. Long  blocks come complete with heads, valve covers, and oil pan. I'm guessing now- sometime in 1961 the owner of your '61 was looking for a replacement engine. The parts department of a dealer just happened to have an older long block available, and it was purchased and installed in your '61.
 
I am reasonably sure this is what happened in this case. Be aware that because it has a high hp mechanical lifter fuel injected engine in it now, that does not help to identify the original engine.
 
Good Luck,
 
Noland Adams

*Note from Doc Hollada, Website Editor:  Don, hopefully you will click on to "Our Membership" and download the membership form, a pdf file.  Send in your dues and the membership form, then join us at Bowling Green this summer and converse with Noland in person.


**********
I have a '58 car and I can see the crescent shaped arm bent and the pin hinge for the crescent arm coming half way out as the trunk lid closes.  This causes the trunk lid on the left side does not go all the way down, causing a bad fit.

Can a body shop change parts of the hinge tower with removing the body rivets for the hinge tower?
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  First remove the trunk divider board and examine both hinges and towers. You may have a problem on both sides.  A good shop may be able to bend the part and or parts back to the original shape.  If excess wear is apparent replace the part or parts.  If you have reproduction trunk irons you may want to put the after market springs in to hold the trunk lid up.   These are a lot heavier than the original.  ( if the irons are hollow brass they are the original type). If solid they are reproduction.  There is a small amount of adjustment through the shims that can be made on the trunk lid.   Thanks and enjoy the car.  Larry

**********

I just sent in my dues to rejoin after a long time.  The serial number on my car is 20867S10809.  My car is on the final stages of restoration and I'm down to having the hardtop restored.  Here's my question.
 
What is the correct color for the headliner in a 1962 Corvette?
 
In one of the Corvette books I thought I saw a description of the top for 62 having a white headliner and a black headliner for the 61 model year.  I have two hardtops for my car.  (one for restoration and one for parts)  The nicer of the two has the black headliner.  I haven't been able to locate that information again and need to know which is correct for my car before I get the hardtop restoration started.  Although my car will be a driver I'm doing everything my budget can tolerate to make it as correct as possible.
 
Do you know which Corvette book had this info in it?
 
Thanks in advance,

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  All 62 Corvettes had a white headliner in the hardtop.  From the front their are two one inch heat seams ( inch apart center to center) going across the car. ( door to door) then a two inch gap and most of the top are the one inch heat seams going front to back.  The same heat seams pattern is on your door panels.  Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice-President: 
Of the 14,531 Corvettes produced for 1962, 11,256 were equipped with the RPO 419, hardtop. 8,074 were manufactured with both softtop and auxiliary hardtop, while 3,179 came with hardtop only.

The '56 thru '60 Corvette hardtop headliners matched the color and pattern of the car's vinyl interior. However that changed in 1961...

Although not offered as an interior color for either '61 or '62, I believe the only color offered for both years for headliner was "white".

Hope this helps.

 

 


**********

I have a problem on my 1962 Corvette in that the engine cooling fan blades are very low in the radiator shroud, so low that the tips only clears at the bottom of the shroud by 3/8”.  The shroud is stock and the fan is a stock 17” diameter.  All of the rubber engine mounts are in place, both at the engine and the transmission.  The transmission mount, at the cross member, has one shim on each side of the cross member spacing the transmission downward.  This is a low mileage Corvette that does not appear to ever been wrecked and all of the previous owners do not report any damage history.

  I cannot see any way to raise the front of the engine at the mount except to shim under the rubber engine mounts with washers.  But to shim here would take over an inch to come close to raising and centering the blades in the shroud.  To lower the transmission, which would raise the fan, would take even more shimming than the front mounts.  This could cause a driveline angle problem.  I have tried to find out what the driveline angle should be but there is nothing on this subject, can you also let me know what the angle range should be at the drive shaft and the engine?  Where all front top rubber mounts the same thickness?

  If needed, I would be glad to give you a call to discuss.

  Thank you for any help on this problem,

  Jack  

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  The fan is not centered within the fan shroud.  The specks call for the following about 3/8 to 7/16 of a inch on the bottom and about 1 and 1/2 inch on the top.  It should have about 1 inch at the 90 and 270 degree on the sides, with a stock 17inch fan and stock shroud.   You fan appears to be right where it should be.  You do not want to raise the front of the motor for a lot of reasons.  Go have fun  Thanks Larry


**********

 I AM DOING A 1960 VETTE AND NEED INFORMATION ON REPLACING THE WINDSHIELD RUBBER . I HAVE THE WINDSHIELD OUT AND THE NEW RUBBER GASKET,BUT THE METHOD OF INSTALLING IT IS NOT AS EASY AS THE SERVICE MANUAL MAKES IT SOUND. IF YOU CAN SHED ANY LIGHT ON THE INSTALLATION PROCEDURE IT WOULD BE A GREAT HELP.
I TRIED LUBRICATION ON THE RUBBER TO GET THE LOWER CHANNEL AND TRIM ON WITH NO LUCK AND DON'T WANT TO BREAK THE ORIG GLASS TRYING.....
Hi:  I have helped on several of these and all have needed an expert.   My very strong advice is to take it to someone that knows how to set it in the frame correctly.  You can have all kinds of problems if this is not correct.  Most common are leaks, top not fitting correctly, windows not going to the full height and on and on.  Good Luck  Thanks Larry

 


**********

I have a completely reconditioned 1960 Horizon Blue 290 HP Fuel Injected Corvette with a Frost Blue Interior I have owned for 41 years this coming January.

I recently attended the FL NCRS Chapter Judging event a Howey-In-The Hills Fl.  During the judging there were several thing that the judges mentioned that

I needed to correct before the January NCRS Judging Event that is held at Old Town in Kissimmee Fl.  One was that I need to install several screws in the carpet, the other one was that I needed to find and install the correct capacitors with the correct numbers.  MY first question is, where are these screws located

In the carpet (a picture would be nice) and my second question is what are the numbers on these three capacitors and where would be a good place to order them?

  I met Mr. Adams at the opening of the Corvette Museum in 1994.  He was kind enough that day to sigh my Corvette Restoration Book Vol. 1.  As I mentioned above

I have owned my 60 Fuelie for 41 years and it was completely reconditioned 2 ½ years ago and I have enjoyed driving it all over Florida . At the local car shows I spoke with several people that worked on the early Corvettes from the beginning.  I recently spoke with a man that worked with Mr. Duntov during the development and testing of the Fuel Injection System for the 57 Corvette.  He was a very interesting person to talk to.

  Anyway, I hope you can help with my questions.  I thank you in advance for any info you can send.

  Thanks,

  Wayne    

Hi;  Sounds like a great car.  Your carpet screws are chrome plated ( not nickel or stainless) and are on the right side of the car toward the transmission about 1 to 1&1/2 inches in on the carpet and about the same from the top of the carpet and the bottom bend where it starts up. ( there is no exact spot.) on the left side only one is at the top about the same distance behind the go fast pedal.
`      The capacitor's are #7270568 (large yellow wax unit) attached at the ammeter gauge lead under the dash.  This is only on radio equipped cars.  A radio interference suppression one is located at the generator (#1911995) attaches to the generator terminal with the gray brown wire.  At the voltage regulator (#19427452) attaches to the lower terminal,  both of these have a metal exterior and about 1&1/4 inches long and about 5/8 of a inch in diameter.
       Good luck and have fun.  Thanks Larry 

**********
I have a 61 with a t-10 and am replacing the rubber transmission mount.  The Service Manual states to make sure the shims are replaced to ensure proper driveshaft alignment.  My car has no shims.  Is there a way to verify if the shims are required? 
Great tech website, BTW.
 
Ray 
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC: 

Hi:  The shims ( if present ) are between the crossmember and the frame.  They were installed on some of the Corvettes to align the drive shaft.   They are not required but make sure they were not present when you removed the cross member.
 
Good Luck  Thanks Larry

**********

I have a 1960 Corvette. The tail lights stopped working (both sides).

Stop lights and turn signals ok. It would be quite a coincidene for

both bulbs to fail at the sale time. Are the tail lights on a separate fuse?
Thank You,
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi; All of the Rear Lights are on the same fuse.

You will need a simple ohm and volt unit to check this out. However

pull the rear

bulbs out and use some fine sand paper to clean both the bulb and the inside of the

housing. Make sure they are tight. Inspect the bulbs while they are out.

1. Steps. Check Ground ( not only on the back of the housing but inside the housing)

2. Check and see if you have power to the back of the bulb ( check with park lights on)

3. If the above checks out you may have a broken wire. ( first look in the trunk)

The wire that is broken may not be visible from the outside.

4. The wires go to the back on the drivers side. Remove the sill plate and check.

Somewhere in the above you will find the problem.

Good Luck Thanks Larry


**********

> Hello, I wish to change the carrier assembly gasket on a 1958

> Corvette due to a slow oil leak. I have disconnected the drive shaft

> and removed the nuts from the 10 bolts holding the carrier assembly,

> The assembly refuses to move from the differential. I am guessing that

> an axle or both axles will need to be removed. Any assistance that you

> can provide will be appreciated. Thank you.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi; Here are the steps to remove the Axles.

1. Take off both rear wheels and the brake drum

2. Install a clamp ( to hold in the wheel cylinder and brake shoes)

Remove the differential housing cover ( after draining the housing)

3. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock screw, ( in the housing) and the differential pinion

shaft, axle shaft spacer and differential pinions. ( these are in the center of the housing by the spider gears)

4. Push axle shafts in toward the center of the axle and remove the "C" washers from inner

ends of the axle shafts. ( you do not need to completely remove them.)

5. Pull the axles out

A couple of Notes

( Do not damage any part of the interior gears as then they will need replacing)

( If you have any oil evidence in the breaks you need to replace the outer bearings

and seals. You will need a bearing puller. Again do not damage any the internal Parts )

Good luck, Thanks Larry


**********

>I have a question about my 1962 Corvette. I recently acquired it from my

>uncle and all the numbers match according to the Black Book. I believe

>the car has been painted. My problem is I cannot find a body plate or any

>info on the original colors. It is currently white with black interior,

>but I am not sure it is the original color. The serial # is 20867S113884.

>Any info I really would appreciate.

> Thanks,

> Randy Mayfield
From: Noland Adams, founding president of SACC:

Randy,

You need to buy the Restoration Book I wrote on 1953 to 1962 Corvettes. It

costs about $80, but I sell it for $70.00 plus $4.00 shipping. Ok, no more

commercials.

Just after the start of 1958 Corvette production, the St. Louis Corvette

assembly plant started helping the painter by writing the exterior body

color in the trunk. They used a lumber crayon (usually green) to write the

color name on the vertical front trunk panel. In order to see this, you'll

have to remove the vertical cardboard panel, which will reveal a thin coat

of paint. To find the paint name, use the edge of a quarter under and beside

the right hand trunk lid hinge and tower. The paint is thin over the lumber

crayon, and it will flake off to show the body color. This procedure was

used on 1958 to 1960 Corvettes. Ivory means white, and Turq. is turquoise,

but red, black, and blue color names are obvious.

IN 1961 the placement of the color name changed to the passenger side seat

back. This was also used on the 1962 models. You'll have to remove the

passenger's seat, which is bolted in place. Then look at the seat back panel

which was behind the seat. Instead of being horizontal, it tilts back like

the seat back itself. The St. Louis workers opened the passenger's door and

stood outside the car while they wrote the color name in large letters on

the seat back panel. Again, a thin coat of paint covers the color name on

the panel. The edge of a quarter will locate the lumber crayon under the

paint. Just keep scraping until you find the entire name. If your car has a

hardtop, you might find "HT" there as well. Again, Ivory means white, MAR

means maroon, Fawn means fawn Beige, Etc.

If it was white, you'll find "Ivory" under the paint. The interior color was

not given- You'll have to look at the colored area in the interior. The

factory painted several small areas so that raw fiberglass could not be seen

around the seats.

For more information about our club, check out the Solid Axle Corvette Club

at http//www.solidaxle.org. This is a 1953 to 1962 group of owners who enjoy

their Corvettes and share technical information.

Enjoy your '62!

Cheers,

Noland Adams

**********

Hi. I just purchased a 'driver' quality 1960 vette after long years of wishing I hadn't sold my '59 in '71. I'm not unique in that. My intention is to bring it back to as close to original as I can. I will need to look for the right drive train as everything has been changed. I'm hoping you can help me establish the build date from the Vin number. It ends in 109156 which must be near the end of production for that year. That will help me to know what to look for. One of your answers to a similar question has already been helpful in determining that the tach red line suggests it was a 270 or 290 FI.
Is the location of the crossed flag insignia on the sides a further clue as to FI or not? In other words, did the factory center the flag emblem when mounted alone and somewhat lower when centered together with the FI script above it?
 

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Your 1959 Corvette serial number ending in 109156 was assembled on Tuesday, July 21, 1959. The engine assembly date (engine number) would be two to five weeks earlier, and the block casting date would be two to three weeks earlier than the engine assembly date. These are general time frames, with most of the dated parts following this pattern. Accessory subassemblies like starter, generator, distributor, radiator, and relays will precede the July 21st assembly date by two weeks to four months. These subassemblies are shown in the Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM).
 
BTW, the last '59, serial number 109670, was assembled on Friday, August 10, 1959.
 
Hope this helps,
 
Noland Adams


**********

am going nut's,trying to find out the shifter ball thread size,for my 1971 corvette 4 speed.can you help!!!!.i want to buy a white shifter knob,but do not know for sure what size it is.my guess,is 1/2,or 9/16.
 
                                                                           thanks     dennis
From: Larry Richter, SACC Founding Treasurer: Hi  The size is 9/16 - 18 ( if it has the stock unit)  Thanks Larry

 

 

 

**********

Before I start chasing my tail and replace every piece of my brake system, maybe someone out there has experienced the same problem? I have a '61 that every part is fairly new, and  I have a '54 that I just purchased that has'nt been touched in years, both are doing the same thing, brakes work ok when cold, as soon as they warm up, no brakes, I have a full pedal, but it's like pushing on the floorboards, it's hard as a rock, what's up? I just can't think of one particular thing that would cause this. Thanks for the help, Paul Monaco

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC

Hi;  This could be several problems.  Here are the most common
1-  Check the adjustment of the brakes including the correct setting for the adjusting Screw ( bottom) and
      the adjusting spring.
2.  Very common problem.  The shoes are either incorrect or on backwards.  The front shoe( primary)
      has about 2 inches more material then the rear.  The front shoe (primary) moves downward and the
      back one moves upward until the upper end butts against the anchor pin.  Check this with the drum
      off.
3.  The shoes float free in the brake, check this as they may be against something when the heat builds up.
4.  Along with the above is heat causing the wheel cylinder to not work.  Do you have any trapped air in the
     line?  
     Good luck  Thanks Larry     

**********

Hey guys,

I was wondering if one of the gurus has an explanation and or a picture showing what and where the date code stamped into a 62 radiator should be. According to the literature I’ve read, from the C62 date code on, the code was stamped on the top of the radiator and the aluminum tag that formerly had the date code stamped into it was stuck on instead of screwed. I have a radiator that has the stuck on Harrison tag with no date code, the sawcut on the top of the radiator, but can’t see a date code stamped into the top in the format month/year anywhere??????? Picture attached

From; Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi;  Thanks for the pictures they helped a lot. 
A new aluminum foil Harrison tag began about February 62 ( serial number range 5,000 to 9,000 plus or minus. This foil was stuck to the upper right top of the radiator.  These radiator's had part number (3150916) stamped directly into the top of the radiator slightly to the left of center mount.  The only answer I have for the 64 ( it should be the date) is it was made in 1964, but I do not have a firm answer for that, unless they found a replacement radiator in 64 or later and put it in.  
You have one of these foil, direct stamped units.  Enjoy  and Thanks Larry


**********

I have a 1957 corvette (3889)  with a 2 speed powerglide transmission.......with no transmission fluid dipstick.  I have been looking for a number a years now with no success.  I am now considering having  one fabricated  ( unless you know where I might find one....)at a metal shop and was wondering if you could give me any information with respect to
length, width, cap size and color, etc.  Anything you can tell me would be useful.

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  

Hi,

I am in the same boat with you. I have a '57 powerglide in my '58. I too am missing the dipstick. I have looked for many years myself. I put a '58 dipstick in 20+ years ago a hope for the best. At lease it keeps the oil in and dirt out.



**********
When ordering a new interior for my Inca Silver 58 I was told Charcoal is the correct color for 58 interiors. In Noland Adams Restoration and Technical Guide Vol.1 under 58 corvette color combinations, he says the second series color combination chart deletes Charcoal and adds Black as interior and exterior colors. I just want to make sure this is correct so that I don’t install the wrong color interior.

Thanks
Mike

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Mike,
 
I have the original color charts from the Corvette assembly plant in St. Louis. Charcoal started out as one of the basic colors at the beginning of 1958 Corvette production. Late in the production year Charcoal was changed to black. No reason was ever given, and the exact point of changeover is unknown. In order to have a black interior, your '58 would have to be built in the last 1 1/2 to 3 months of production. I would look at the overspray beside the seats and determine if it is charcoal or black. If you determine it was originally black, go back to the interior vendor. I assume that you are dealing with either Corvette America or Al Knock in Texas. If they need convincing, have Doug Svoboda for Corvette America or Al Knock call me at home at 530) 626-3232 (Pacific time). They both know me, and if you are sure you need black I can convince them. After all, we do want it done right!
 
Good Luck,
 
Noland Adams

**********

Dear Sirs,

 

I have a l962 Corvette, which I just recently took to a Corvette Specialty shop to have a new wiring harness installed.  Before I took it, I noticed when I applied the brakes the gas gauge needle would go either to full or empty depending on how much gas the gauge showed.  Thinking that putting a new harness in the car would take care of the situation, but it didn’t.  They told me that they had contacted the place where they get their wiring harness from and were told that was a problem with some of the ‘62’s and there was no answer, no fix to it.  Further, that some did - some didn’t, and that General Motors couldn’t take care of the problem either.  Do you know of a solution to this problem, or is this the way it will remain? 

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President: You have a ground problem. Most likely in one of the tail lights. Run an extra wire from the tail light(s) housing to a good ground. If this helps, hide your new ground wire and you are good to go. What is happening is the ground is back feeding through your gauge.

Also, Noland Adams has a tip..



From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

This is a common problem with 1958 to 1962 Corvettes. Behind the instrument panel there is a single ground wire, which becomes overloaded when more than one device is turned on (brakes, turn signals, radio, Etc.). It is a simple matter of the ground wire becoming overloaded and giving a false gas tank level reading. Install an extra ground wire behind the instrument panel up out of sight. Use a piece of 14 or 12 gauge wire to make sure that you eliminate the problem. No one will ever see it and your gas gauge will show your true gas tank level.

 

**********
Can you tell me the differences in the distributor drive tach vs. the generator drive tach?  I have a 61 tach but I cannot tell if it will work on my 62 corvette.  It came out of a 61 but I don't know if it was early or late.  Would a generator type drive work on a distributor drive?   Is there a difference in appearance?    Mike

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Mike,
 
The 1961 and 1962 tachometers appear identical, but they are not. Between the generator and distributor drives, one turns twice as fast as the other. Right now, I can't remember which is which. As I recall, there is a calibration process where the strength of the magnet in the tachometer head is varied to match the speed of the drive unit. Call a speedometer shop that is familiar with Corvettes and they can give you the correct info.
 
Good luck,
 
Noland Adams

**********
Need your help solving an issue with my 1960 Corvette.  Recently purchased my "dream car" and a couple of months ago and all has been fine as I've taken it out for the round about town cruise.  Today decided to take it out on the interstate and get it up to a highway speed (around 70 mph).  When I got the car up to around 70, it started feeling like it was fishtailing around.  The feeling was either like the axle was shifting around or a tire was rolling off the rims.  Checked the tires and all looks OK there.  Crawled under the car and the rear axle looks fine but did notice a couple of things:
1.  Noticed a nylon strap on the left side (just hanging not touching the axle and on the right side the strap is missing.  I can see where the straps had touched the axle in the past so not sure if this could be the problem.
2.  Measured the distance from the center of the tires on the drivers side (101.5 inch) and Passenger side (102 inches).  Not sure if a 1/2 difference is OK.

Do you have any suggestions or thoughts as to what might be going on?

Thanks,
Dan

From Larry Richter, founding treasurer of SACC:

Hi;  You could have several problems.  The One half inch is material on the car.. It could be anything from a bent rear spring, bend axle housing, rear spring bushings gone or wore out to a bent tire rim, and on and on.  You may even have front suspension problems.  I would suggest that you take the car to a good four wheel alignment shop that has the knowledge or the measurements for the car.  They should be able to either tell you what is wrong or be able to fix the problem.  Do not let them just start to change the parts until it goes away, it needs to be fixed.  Thanks Larry

 

**********
Note to Robert Round - you need to take the lock off your email so I can open it. Also, please put 'SACCTECH' as the subject.  Thanks...Doc

**********
Application form - Question on Solid Axel #1 and #2 do you mean the vin # of the corvette?

From Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Neil,
 
Yes, we're assuming that you may have more than one solid axle Corvette, that's why we have #1 and #2. About the term serial number or Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), the correct term for 1953 to 1969 Corvettes was the serial number. In 1970 GM ( and the other auto manufacturers) used a standard alphanumeric identification number called a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Although the term serial number is technically correct for a solid axle Corvette, most folks do like you did- they use the term VIN for all years. So, use the term you want, we're talking about the identification number for a specific vehicle.
 
Thanks for asking,
 
Noland Adams


**********

I need help to solve a problem with my '58 Vette windshield.  When I connect the convertible top, the

top of the windshield frame pulls up enough that the top of the glass starts to show.  The

windshield was professionally  installed.  I believe the frame structure is

not broken.  Also, is there such a thing as an aftermarket rubber molding

that would cover the glass separation?

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Both of your windshield posts are broken at the dog leg. You are not going to like to hear this. The only way to fix this is to remove your windshield, no easy task. Check the GM service manual for removal. Send the pot metal post to Corvette Central in Sawyer, MI. They will attach a replacement plate to bottom of the post and make it better than new. This is a common problem caused by two items. (1) The pull of a soft for 50 years and (2) glass installers prying the glass frame apart just enough to slide a replacement windshield into to frame. Pot metal will only flex so many times before breaking

From: Larry Richter, founding treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  What happened is that the top frame was not fit to the car before the canvas was installed.  This is my suggestion.  First put the top down and make sure the windshield is back in the rubber.  You may need to pull the windshield off the car to get this correct. " ouch".  Then take remove the canvas off the top frame and fit the frame to the top, including the door glass and windshield.   It should snap down front and back and the door glass should fit to the top.  The top frame needs to be straight on the top of the window with the rubber installed.  The adjustments are behind the seats for the top frame. Make sure it fits in all areas every time as the raise and lower the frame. This includes the windshield and the back lid. Then ( made need to get a new canvas top)( "ouch") and attach it to the frame.  You may want a professional to install the canvas.  There is no quick fix.  Thanks Larry

**********

 I am writing at the request of my husband, Richard Howell who is a member of SACC.  We have a 2007 Supplement to the Road Assistance Directory and would like to know if there is any way we could obtain an updated version of this information. On Sept. 15th we are heading out in our 1964 Corvette for the New England states for 8 days.  The fact that we are taking a 45 year old car that distance is a slight gamble but something we always wanted to do in the '54 that we own but now that it is a "trailer queen" as I have lovingly titled it we will be doing it via the 10 year newer version.  Our main stops will be Vermont for Hemmings Motor News, Boston area, Plymouth, and on to Cape Cod & maybe Block Island.  We would feel much better if we knew their were SACC members along the way that if necessary we could call and get suggestions if the need arises (either for repairs or suggestions of places not to miss.) 
 
Thank you for any help you could give us.

From Ken Amrick, Editor of On Solid Ground:  
The Road Assistance Directory is now a part of the Roster.  The 2009 "Roster and Road Assistance Directory was distributed along with the Summer issue of the magazine.
After each member's phone numbers there is a column entitled "Road Assistance" If that member is participating, there is a "Y" in the column for YES.  

 

 

 

 

**********
Hi,

I live in Merrick, New York. I have a 1960 Corvette and like to have the steering gear box rebuilt. Do you know of anyone who does this type work so I know its done correctly.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC:

Hi:  If you call the Corvette Stop at 1-800-924-2493 they can help you.  Ask for Drew and tell them I referred you to him.  He does a super job.  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

How do you replace the fuel line that runs from the tank to the fuel pump on a 1959 Corvette? I have been told the engine must be removed for access.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC

Hi:  You do not need to remove the engine to replace the fuel line.  My first question is why do you need to replace the line?  If you have rust in the carburetor you must find where the rust is coming from first, generally this is the fuel tank.  However there may be other problems.  Check the fuel neck ( from the cap to the tank) I have seen a lot of rust in this area, or it may be the fuel pump in and of its self.
    Assuming the short line from the tank to the long line is good.  There is a connection to the long line on the right side just above the sway bar mounting. ( you will need to drain the tank at this point).  The long line generally goes on the outside of the frame to another connection about 3 inches from the fuel pump. There are several clips holding the line to the frame.  It is simpler to remove the right front tire and possibly some other items to have access.  You can bend the long line, but be careful not to kink the  line. This can be disconnected at this point.  The forward short flex line goes into the fuel pump.  When it is apart replace this flex line and the fittings.  Be very careful because these brass fittings are easily damaged.  I will admit that space is very tight but with the correct tools it is not a hard project.
    Corvette Central has the parts in the 53-62 Book   800-345-4122   Good luck and let me know if you have other questions.   Thanks Larry

**********

Good Morning,  You may not be the one to direct this question to but if not would you please pass it on to the proper person?
 
We are members of Solid Axle Corvette Club and have been for many years.  We are planning a trip to the New England States beginning Sept. 15th and would feel a bit more comfortable knowing we have a current listing of the Road Assistance Directory.  The one we have is 2006 with a 2007 Supplement.  Could you please tell us how we can obtain this information or even if you can copy, paste, and send via e-mail the portion containing information on Pennsylvania, New York, Vermont, Massachusetts, and Rhode Island. 
 
We have always wanted to take a Corvette on a long trip like this and since the 54 is a fresh frame off restoration we have decided to take the 64.  If you would ask any of our friends they would all tell you we are nuts for taking a 45 year old car on a trip like this but WHAT DO THEY KNOW?????   In examining our information we realized that things certainly do change in three short years looking at the information on members that were personal friends of ours, let alone everyone else.  This rapid change in this length of time also gave us both a loud message that we should do this now because you never know what lies ahead. 
 
Thank you in advance for any help you can give us. 

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  If you are a current member of SACC you should have received one with the second mailing of the year.( for the year 2009)  You can contact the editor Ken Amrick at vette5362@mail.com   Thanks and have a good trip.  Larry
 

 

**********

Hi just wondering if you have any links to a demo tape etc. of a installation and adjustments of a soft top frame on a 59 vette
Kind regards Lou

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi;  Al Knoch at 800-880-8080 or e-mail at alknoch@flash.net  has them.  The most important item is you must have the frame fitted and adjusted to the car in all areas before installing the cover.  Good Luck Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

Hello:  I have a stock 1962 corvette fuelly. I am in the process of detailing the chassis.  Was it common for the 1962 to have visible wax pencil shim marks on the chassis? The Quanta detailing kit gives me the pencil, but no indication as to the location of the marks. I've seen mid-years with shim marks, but not solid axles. Please advise.  Thanks.  JC

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  I do not believe there were any shim marks on the Solid Axle cars.  I have never seen any on the original cars.  The machine to measure the height of the frame, came in for the 63 and up cars. They used two different colors to indicate the shims required.  White generally means one and red or orange generally means 5.  Let me know if you find any real evidence of original solid axle cars  with shim marks.  Thanks Larry


**********

Hi. I just purchased a 'driver' quality 1960 vette after long years of

> wishing I hadn't sold my '59 in '71. I'm not unique in that. My

> intention is to bring it back to as close to original as I can. I will

> need to look for the right drive train as everything has been changed.

> I'm hoping you can help me establish the build date from the Vin

> number. It ends in 109156 which must be near the end of production for

> that year. That will help me to know what to look for. One of your

> answers to a similar question has already been helpful in determining

> that the tach red line suggests it was a 270 or 290 FI. Is the

> location of the crossed flag insignia on the sides a further clue as

> to FI or not? In other words, did the factory center the flag emblem

> when mounted alone and somewhat lower when centered together with the

> FI script above it?

 

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC: 

Hi: Great find and when you are finished enjoy the car.

First you need to purchase 3 books

Noland Adams Vol 1 ( 53 to 62)

The 1960 Assembly Manual

NCRS Judging manual for 58-60

These three will answer a lot of questions and solve a lot of problems for

you.

On your questions. You car was built the first working day of July 1960.

What that means is that all the parts should be dated 6 months or less

before the assembly date. Generally the car parts will be dated about one to

two months (April 15 to June 15 ) before assembly.

As to what was the original horse power or was it a fuel unit. The one spot

that should be still original is the firewall. Look directly behind the

distributor and if there is a hole about 2.5 inches wide and about 1 inch

high it was a fuel unit. All fuel injection cars had a distributor tack

drive and all carb units had the drive on the back of the generator. You

may find a bracket or holes on the drivers side ( left ) fender about half

way back that held the air cleaner for the fuel unit. If no evidence either

place is was a carb car.

On the fenders unless it has the original fenders and many do not, it will

not tell you anything. The injection script is located about 4 and 1/4

inches forward of the door opening. Oh, yes someone may have changed the

tack.

Good Luck and let us know and questions or problems you have. Thanks Larry Yes you can join SACC. and the club welcomes you.

 

**********

Hi, my name  is Joseph Hydell.I was refered to Solid Axle and NCRS by NCOA. I would very much appreciate help with following.In  1971 i purchased a 1961 corvette,in Calif. About5 yrs ago I decided to restore the car,stripped the car totally,ever screw out,all paint off.It was an enormous undertaking as I know nothing about cars.I am proud to say  I did a * job.My problem is .Last year my home burned down.I had to sell the car.I sold it to a local police officer,price somewhat negotiable,and verbal,To a point,He stopped paying me short of $2000.Friday is small claims court.His  issue,I'm sure will be stress cracks,on front end,Something he was aware of ,shown on my video tape.However without some refrence,to the fact that this was  common with61,62 vettes,As this is his town,I don't have a chance.Any leeds,I appreciate greatly.One note,I was sure to give him Noland Adams guide.Very very little survived the fire That book did,and so did ELVIS' autograph.   THANK YOU, very much,  Joe

From Brad Bean, SACC VP: 
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Without getting into a "he said, no he said" discussion as to whether he was made aware of the stress cracks prior to the purchase... vertical creases on the front fenders, centered above the wheel wells (of varing severity) are fairly common on the 1958 through 1962 body style, especially '58 - '60.

These creases often develop due to the weight of the front end and the front end being attached to the frame. As the top of the fender is horizontal, it has some ability to flex as the car vibrates and bounces. However, at the smallest point where the fender curves downward and becomes vertical, it will often bow outward and over time develop a crease (and later a crack) in the fiberglass.

Unfortunately, the proper solution is often to replace the fender or entire front clip.

To grind out the fiberglass and fill it in, never looks right on the fender surface, and (under the same stress that created the problem to begin with) the repaired areas will ultimately crack where the repaired areas attach to the fender. Also, you can't hide the reinforced repairs on the underside from NCRS judging or during the re-sale process.

Brad

**********

I am  having a problem getting my horns to work on my 61. I have replaced all the wiring  and everything else works. I can make the horns work when jumping  the red and blace wires at the horn relay but when I try the horn button nothing. I have tried another relay with the same result. Tha tan wire is connected at the column.   I am lost. i simply do not know how the horn circuit works. Any way to test the tan wire?

From: Noland Adams, founding President of
SACC:  

Pat,
 
It's been a long time since I've worked on the horn relay, but I think I can explain the principle. First of all, it takes a lot of watts (voltage times amperage) to get the horns to produce its loud noise(s). A heavy duty horn relay is added to the circuit to handle the power load required by the horn(s). In order to get the relay to pull in and send power to the horns, a wire runs from the rerlay through the column, ending at the horn button. This wire is always "hot", so when you push the horn button, you are grounding the wire, which pulls in the relay, and the horns produce noise. You should have power on the wire in the column at all times. If this wire shorts out- maybe while turning a corner- you will go batty trying the silence those blaring horns.
 
Try installing a jumper on the relay where the tan wire is connected. By grounding this wire, the horns should sound off. Then check the wire up through the column to the horn button. Somewhere there's an open circuit like a broken wire or maybe a bad relay.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Good Luck,
 
Noland Adams

**********

I have a 1960 vette and the key will

> not open the trunk, it

> used to open ok but now the key just turns and the trunk

> will not open. How do I

> get it open to repair it ???
   John

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  You will not like what I am about to tell you. You will need to break the plastic emblem, then try not to damage the aluminum backing any more that you have too, but you just as well beat it to death as well. Then you can use this round hole to reach the latch and open your trunk. Then you can repair the problem of the key no longer working to release the trunk latch. Do save the chrome ring however.
From; Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:  

Hi:  Just break out the large trunk emblem and reach in with a stiff wire or something that will grab the latch to move it.  You may need to feel around to see what is broken.  Would suggest that you buy the new part that failed and a new trunk emblem. Install the new lock first to make sure it works correctly ( several times ) then install the new trunk emblem.  Good luck  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

Hello,

I have a 54 corvette and am attempting to remove the steering box and steering shaft. I have removed all the proper bolts as well as the firewall grommet and dash supports but the shaft cannot clear the side wall of the engine compartment. My question is does the shaft need to be separated from the steering box first before removal, or is there a trick to remove them as one piece?  

Thanks,

Mitch

 

From: Noland Adams, President Emeritus, SACC:  

The 1953 to 1955 Corvette steering column and the steering box containing the gears were installed as a unit in the body at the Corvette assembly plant (Flint or St Louis). Then the body was lowered onto the chassis and along with the steering column and box, and they were bolted in place.
 
After all of these years, it's no surprise that the steering box needs rebuilding. It will probably need a bearing set, and perhaps new gears. Removing the steering column is a difficult job, indeed. Some owners have given up and removed the body from the chassis. Besides providing easy access to the steering box and column, there are many other items that can be easily reached at the same time, including body repairs and body mount repairs.
 
Another method is to cut the inner fender panel, and repair it after the rebuilt steering column and box are reinstalled. None of this is quick and easy.
 
The steering box and column is easier to remove/replace on 1956 and 1957 Corvettes, because more space was provided. 1958 and later Corvettes have even more space, so their steering parts are fairly easy to remove/replace.
 
Good luck with your 1954 Corvette repairs!
 
Cheers,
 
Noland Adams

From Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  The box and shaft are one item. They have to be removed as a whole. Ideally you need to remove the body to get the steering shaft and box off of an early Corvette. But you can remove parts of the front axle and spring and related parts and after much time and work you can pull the steering box down and out with the Corvette on a lift. Good luck with you project.

From: Larry Richter, Past Treasurer, SACC:  

Hi:  You need to remove the steering wheel and the hub ( with the turn signal switch ).(Careful of the wires to the horn and turn signal switch)( and remove the plate around the column) with the car up in the air, you should be able to slide it out the bottom of the car. If you cannot get it up in the air you will need to take part of the left suspension or steering gear loose.  If you do mark the shims ( if any so it can be reinstalled later. ) You will need to turn it to clear the steering gear under the car.  Any questions let me know.   Thanks Larry

 

**********

Hello,
 
I have been the proud owner of E54S001601 for the past 5 years.  I purchased the car from a gentleman who passed away from Sandpoint Idaho who had owned the car for over 30 years.  He had only put 100 documented miles on the car driving it on to his trailer and off while having it stored in the Talyor/Parker GM dealership over the past 30 years. 
 
I am starting an NCRS restoration and have found black paint under the 3 or so coats of Polo White which I was hand stripping.  I have taken picture of it but wanted to know what kind of other documentation is needed or can I find out more information on black 54's that were produced by GM???Since only 5 or 7 black 54's are know to be produced. E54S001601 is the first 600th corvette made in 54 and is one of the first 1,000 made for corvettes.....  I have contacted DMV in Washington State and they do not hold any records past 15 years and do not even have microfish to check old records on historic cars....
 
Any information would be greatly appreciated of you could lead me to the right person or persons who may know more about 1954 corvettes.  I am SACC member 2929.
 
 
Sincerely,
 
mark

 

Hi:  Black was not used after March 5, 1954.   The start of Production for the 54 was Dec 28, 1953 and there are generally no production records available for the 54.  However, NCRS has documentation that S.N. 2628 was produced on May 18 of 54.  If you average this out it is about 350 + or - per month so you car was built ( on the average of the first 1628 cars) toward the end of February of 54.  Therefore, it could be an original black car.  Look in all the little hidden places for evidence of over spray on the raw fiberglass.  You should document this in very good pictures for future reference.   It should have a red interior ( same as the white cars).  You can also contact Noland Adams regarding additional information on these early cars.   P.S.  I live 50 miles North of Portland so you can contact me if you wish.  Thanks Larry

**********

Sirs,
I am in the process of changing the weatherstripping around the windshield in my 1960 Corvette. I started the WS at the bottom of the glass and progressed to the sides and around the corners of the glass. It looks a bit short of fitting around the rest of the glass! I really don't want to pull and stretch the WS too much to fit the windshield! (I don't want to break this original windshield!!). Should I let this WS soak in the sun for awhile or is there something else important that I am missing in my installation process? Please get back ASAP as the cruise season is short enough here in the East!!
Thanks,
George Full

From: Larry Richter, Past Treasurer, SACC:
Hi: The windshield rubber is made to fit very tight.  I use hand cleaner (GOOP) so it slides around the glass. Have a helper and put a small amount in the channel of the rubber and put the bottom on first and around the corners.  Make sure that it is pulled tight. then up both sides to the top and it should fit.  Be very careful that you do not put excess pressure on the glass in ways that will bend the glass as it will break.  I do not put any sealant from the glass to the rubber as the windshield will work a little as you drive the car. Make sure that you adjust the windshield to the top before the reassemble the dash.  Thanks Larry

 

**********

Hello,
I am having trouble with my 59 Corvette Powerglide overheating.  In everything I have read I see no reference to any type of tranny cooler?  I do see in 63 they have one, but not for the early models?  Any help?  Do I need to go to an aftermarket of some type?
Thankyou,
Scott Gross

From: Noland Adams, Founding President:

Scott,
 
The first Corvette Powerglide transmission cooler was installed by the St. Louis factory in mid-1963 production. First, you stated that you're having trouble with your "'59 Corvette Powerglide overheating". Then you asked about a transmission cooler. My first question to you: is the transmission overheating or is the radiator/cooling system overheating? The 1959 Corvette is fairly lightweight car with a 283 cid engine, and normally does not need a transmission cooler.
 
So, do you have a larger engine that may put more strain on the Powerglide transmission? Is your problem with the radiator/coolant overheating? There are many possible causes for coolant overheating- a plugged radiator, a bad thermostat, bad hoses, timing out of adjustment, Etc. Start by using a 50 percent mix of Prestone anti-freeze and distilled or deionized water. Now, is it really overheating, or are you just getting a high coolant temperature reading? It could be your dash instrument's temperature reading.
 
There are so many variables here, but perhaps we can eliminate the obvious potential problems, and come up with a solution.
 
Thanks for asking,
 
Noland Adams

**********
Sirs,
> I own a 1960 red Corvette that I've had for 25 years. The windshield weather
> stripping is starting to separate from the glass. I am very tempted to play
> with this issue but something tells me I better ask, first! Is it worth
> tackling on my own?
> George Full

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:

This is something you can do yourself.  But how much time and how nimble are you?  You will need to pull the dash loose at the door post to access two 1/2 nuts.  Then about every 6 inches all along the front or bottom of the windshield frame are small nuts that will need to be removed.  These are accessed from under the dash on the inside of the Corvette.  If the pot metal parts of the windshield post are cracked at the bottom when you remove the assembly, have them fixed as well.


**********

Gentlemen,

> I own a 1958 that my dad bought in 1960 and gave to me in 1970, after
> plenty abuse and neglect I have been trying to bring it> back to > correct as possible. I would be interested to know the
build date (June 13th is my guess) of the car and confirm correct dates for the components since most were out of the vehicle at one time or another. Car is #7946: Engine stamp F603CQ, E 21 8 Heads E 16 8  Dist 8-E-23  Intake D-25-8  Thanks

>Steve

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President: 
Your 1958 would have been assembled on June 17 mid day of production.

 


 

**********

Dear Sirs:

 

Here’s a good one.  I have a ’58 Corvette and there is a minimum ½ inch gap along the left side of the trunk lid, along the rear wheel.  The trunk lid does not go all the way down to meet the body near the rear wheel area of the body, on both side of the car.  The right side is at lease ¼ gap above the body.

I tried to use shim, but the shims cannot make that much of an adjustment.

A friend told me what needs to be done is must use something to bend the trunk lid down on the edges that don’t go down far enough to meet the body, and when the trunk lid cracks just repair the cracks.

  Maybe there’s another ’58 trunk lid for sale?  Trading up to another ’58 car is too expensive for me in Hawaii.  Help!

  Aloha,
Eric

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice-President:

The car has apparently been damaged in an accident and not repaired properly. The only real solution is to take the car to a reputable restoration/auto body shop and have them make the appropriate repairs. However, this will not be inexpensive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

I have a 57 with a state vin number.  Where is the vin on the frame?

From: Larry Richter, founding Treasurer of 
SACC: 

Hi:  The vin number is stamped on the left side (driver).  As you sit in the car it is under your feet.  It could be forward or back about a foot, and on either side of the top of the frame.  If the frame is in really good condition you should be able to take a wire brush and clean the top of the frame, between the body and the frame, and find the number ( or part of the number). with a mirror.  If the frame has some rust ( most did) it is gone.  You could pull the body and give it a close look and perhaps have some of the number.  These were stamped for control numbers and some were very lightly hit.  Good luck  Thanks Larry

 

 

From: Noland Adams, President Emeritus, SACC: 

Dear David
 
Re: 1957 serial number on frame.
 
Before 1970 the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) was called the Serial Number, so that's what I call it. The number is stamped on top of the frame's left hand side rail. If the body is off of the frame, the number is located on the left (driver's side) of the center of the frame's main X member. With the driver seated in the car, the number on the frame is just a bit to the left of his or her hip pocket. With the body installed, there is a small gap between the body and the frame. By using wedges, you can "bend" the fiberglass and increase the gap. Then use sandpaper or a small brush to clean the frame where the number is located. The numbers are deeply impressed in the top of the side rail; perhaps it helps to locate this low spot. Then, using a dental mirror, read them- but they'll be backwards.
 
Once an experienced NCRS judge read the serial number on my frame incorrectly. I was almost penalized for having a replacement frame. So read the frame's serial number carefully.
 
If you need a serial number plate replacement, perhaps I can help. Contact me at nolandadams@internet49.com.
 
Good Luck!
 
-Noland Adams

 

**********

1959 Corvette.

 

Is it allowed for a non member of your club to ask you a technical question?

 

I need to remove the power glide transmission because of an oil leak

Can I remove the transmission without pulling the engine?

 

Regards

 

Henninng Sorensen

Denmark

 

From Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  You can remove it either way.  I prefer to take the engine out with the trans attached.  You will need to have the correct tools either way.  I would suggest that if you have never done this before and do not have the correct tools ( ie engine hoist, lifts, manuals etc,) you need to pay a professional to do the task.  You could do more dollar damage then you will save.  Have fun and enjoy.  Thanks Larry

 

**********

I just bought a 1960 corvette basket case and I want to find out its history
do you know how I can?
Thanks
Gary

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC

Hi;  The history on old cars is difficult if not impossible to find out, if you do not have the original documentation.  Below are a few ways that may or may not work.  G.M. does not have this information on the cars built in St. Louis. (54 to part of 81)( part of 1981 forward they do have this for cars built in Bowling Green.)
1-  Check in the state where the car was last registered.  They may go back a few owners or they may not.  If the car has not been registered for a while, this may be the end.  They may be able to tell you which state the car came from.
2- Look around the car to see if there is any hidden paper work, repair orders, registrations anything and go from there.
3- Talk to the old ( really old ) time Corvette Owners in the area you purchased the car and perhaps some one will remember the car.
4- Look under the front windshield, in the trunk and under weather striping, to see if you can determine the original color, this may help.
5- Look for any major repair, or modifications in the fiberglass, then check around the long time body shops body shops.
I wish you good luck, and that is what you are going to need.  Thanks and have fun.  Larry

**********

I 've owned this car since 1968,it's a 61 vette, and always had a 62 interio,trim & ect, but titled as a 61 Chevrolet conv. the vin is10867109866 it's roman red/red interior can you help? I want to freshin it up,but don't know whether to make it look like a 61,or62it doesn't have 62 coves, that protrude .Thank you ,hope you can help sincerely John Marshall


From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  There are several differences between the 61 and 62, including the block ( if original) should be casting number 3789935 for a 61 and all 62's have 3782870 casting. All 61's had a silver finish grill, and 62's had a black finish. You can look to the glass ( if original) the letter code is L for 61. It goes on and on. but you have a 61 serial number, in fact more than 1000 from the end of production. Your car was build about the 10th of June 61, and production ended for the 61 the end of July. Look under the seat there may be a black metal tag about 1X4 inches with the seat assembly date. ( hope it is still there). My guess is that some one put a 62 interior in the car back before 68.  It appears to be in fact a 61.  If I can help any more let me know, and enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry


Dear Sirs:
 
I'm running a 1961 with a 4 barrel carburetor and I have a problem keeping engine paint on my intake manifold at the cross-over.
 
The cross-over keeps peeling the paint off due to the heat generated and I'm wondering if I can block off the cross-over to prevent the paint loss.
 
The car is only used in the summer and apart from a slower choke release, are there any other issues that I'll encounter if I proceed with my idea?
 
It's my understanding that the cross-over serves to further atomize the fuel in the carburetor by using the heat and that given it's a summer only car, I shouldn't run in to other issues.
 
I use heat rated engine paint, but the problem persists and I have just finished acid dipping the manifold to clear it of any impurities.
 
I would appreciate your input on this.
 
Many thanks.:

From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi;   Several items or a combination of several items.  (1)  The exhaust heat raiser could be only opening part way. Get the correct new one and install it. (2) Timing of the engine could be off 2 or 3 degrees. (3) You have a valve problem or problems that one or more are not closing completely. Do a compression check and a leak down test to see if do have this problem.  (4) The carburetor may have improper settings. Have a scope test for settings and exhaust gas readings.  (5) most discount store bought paint will not take the heat.  Go to a auto paint store and get very high temp paint.  Make sure the manifold is completely clean before painting and do not put more than two thin coats on. Too much paint may be the problem.  A minor amount will burn off.  Thanks and enjoy the car.  Larry
 

**********

When I touch the brakes on my 62, the gas needle shifts position and returns to its original position once the brake is released.  What do you suggest to alleviate this movement?
 
Best regards,
 
Landry

From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:
Hi;  That is a grounding problem.  One way to fix that is to run a separate wire from the back of the dash (Metal) to a good solid ground.  If the wire is brittle and will not bend easily you may want replace part or all of the wiring in the car.  This is a safety issue at this point.  Look very close at the wire from the brake light switch and see if there are any problems. Thanks and enjoy the car .  Larry

 

**********

Hello.  For years I have been interested in  purchasing a 58 - 62 Corvette.  I don't know much about the mechanicals and  was wondering if you could recommend someone I could retain as a consultant to  assist me in buying a car.  There are lots of nice looking cars on the  internet but they can't all be as nice as they're described.  Thank  you.


 
From Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:
There are companies/individuals who do this for a fee, but they are specific to a locale.  The best way to do this is to first find a car, then find some qualified in that area to look the car over.  They will render an opinion, but usually only to the mechanical and physical condition of the car, not it's correctness or authenticity.

Brad

 

 

 

 

**********

Hi I just bought a 1959 corvette It has a British Columbia assigned vin because when it came to my province in 1983 it had no vin tag how do I find the original vin number or where should I look do I have to remove the body

From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  You probability will need to remove the body.  The vin number is on the top of the frame rail drivers side about the center of the X brace. There is no exact location so look forward and back, side to side. As you are standing on the drivers side looking down ( body removed) you may be able to read it.  Some you can read with a mirror with some wire brushing in the are between the body and frame.   Even if you remove the body it may be rusted beyond identification.  If the car has a frame section in that area it is gone.  Good Luck  Thanks Larry


**********

Hello,

 I have a question on my 1961 corvette 283, all stock 2x4 dual quad car.

What should the volt meter read in the car if the generator is doing

 the job correctly? My car shows zero while running, goes below the

negative number when I run the lights. Battery will go dead if I run with the lights on for

awhile. Checked out system and seems to be working ok, no broken wires,

ordered new regulator, but not sure if this is the issue or not. I

was just looking to find out what my gauge should read in the car.

Regards,

David Seymour

From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi: When the car is sitting with the ignition off the gauge should be inthe center. Ignition on and headlights on it should read about 2 to 4 ampsdischarge. On the starting it should go to 10 to 12 discharge, once the carstarts it should go to 12 to 15 amps charge and then over a 5 to 15 minute

period should be back to near zero. With the car running it should be at 1to 2 amps charge once the battery is recharged. Set it up for 1000 RPM. A lower RPM will cause a discharge at idle and this is normal. Do not set itup for more than 16 amps charge, as it will do damage to your radio. Be aware of the over the counter voltage regulators as some can not be set upcorrectly and others there is no setting on them. You could have severalproblems:

1. Bad Battery

2. Voltage regulator not set up correctly

3. Generator not adjusted correctly ( yes they are adjustable) 4. A short in the wiring ( test this by taking the fuse out one at a time

and see what happens) If you have the original wiring I would suggest you

replace it with new.

The Best place to get all the details is in the 1961 Passenger Car Shop Manual Pages pages 9-2 to 9-12.

If you send me your address I will photo them and mail it to you.

Thanks and have fun Larry

 

**********
HI:
 I've got a 57 Corvette I'm restoring and I'm putting on disc brakes for piece of mind. I've got the front kit and the adapters for the rear that use the 88 Iroc discs. My question is what MANUAL dual master cylinder should I be using to run the four discs. I don't want to have a hard pedal every time I hit the brakes. I have been told that I should forget the four disc brake idea because of not being able to run a power booster and just run the front discs and put a good set of linings on the drums in the rear. Any thoughts on this?
 
  Thanks for your time,
           Brent Fields
From; Larry Richter, founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  The one and most important item is the complete system must be balanced for all 4 wheels.  You cannot buy one part one place and another somewhere else. Generally, you need a 1 inch bore and a master cylinder specific for the four wheel disk brake system.  The proportioning valve must match the master and the brakes.  Call Pedro at 714-771-6569 at ABS Power Brakes. You may need to purchase some parts to make it work correctly.  Note: some of the units require you to drill another hole in the fire wall to lower the pedal rod.  The four wheel disk brake system works great when set up correctly.  Enjoy the car  Thanks Larry 

**********

Do these steering box casting numbers identify an early Corvette unit?

 C1UR 3550 B (main body)

 C1UR 3580     (side flange)
We are building a Nostalgia Gasser and have located an old tube axle adapted to early Corvette spindles......the steering box that came with it is still a mystery.

 Thanks,

Ron

From Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC:

Hi:  I have no idea what you have for a steering box.  After considerable research it appears it is not a early Corvette.  Housing part numbers were 56XXXXX ( a seven number code ) The early group numbers were 6.5XX to 6.9XX.  I will keep looking but it appears it is not even a G.M. ( perhaps after market )  Thanks and enjoy the car.  Larry

**********

I am preparing a 56 Corvette for NCRS judging in 2009.    The last time the car was flight judged by NCRS, the battery had points deducted because it was not a “tar top”  battery.

  Can you direct me to a source  of  NCRS “correct” batteries?

  Thanks,
Don

From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer

Yes:  Contact Restoration Battery at 513-574-4481 and ask for a real tar top.  It should come to you dry and you add the acid and water.  The top will be a dull black and sticky ( not a plastic top that some of them have.)  good luck with the 56  Thanks Larry

 

**********

hi
just wondering if you can help me with my 59 vette
I have a sag mark in both front fenders above the wheel and when I look behind the back support bracing seems all original and without any accident damage or previous repairs but in that area it seems like there is like a joint or somethink in the bracing and it seems like the weakest spot, with years of saging etc. the front body mount under the radiator may have dropped a little causing the body to do this Would you think I am on the right track. I have restored the frame/chassis and about to fit body back and repair this area which would be the best way
Cheers Lou 

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC

Hi:  There is really no way to repair the sag over the wheels on the 58-60 Corvettes.  Yes you can build it up, but the glass is all ready weaken.  Primary reason is individuals leaning over and putting weight on the fender for 50 years.  You will never be happy to do it this way.  Two suggestions (1) Call Jerry at 1-800-550-1200 and see if he will make you a section of the fender that you need.  The problem with that is there will always be a cut mark  in the fenders and the repair will always show upon close examination.  This way is cheaper (maybe) than the other way.  (2)  Call Corvette Image at 503-492-0164 and buy all new glass.  They make the glass with the correct bonding strips and feel of the glass.  You may want to consider a complete front end.  Be sure to get the chassis 4 wheel aligned before attaching the body. If you do this make sure the glass man know early Corvettes and the measurements or it will be a mess.  The only way the front body mount can drop with out frame damage is either a crack in the glass or a shim or two have fallen out. Thanks and good luck.  Larry

**********

Is there a differential offset on the 61?
 
Thank You, Ed

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC

Hi:  All the 60-61-62 rear suspension systems are the same.  There is no differential offset on the 61.  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********
Hello- I just retired and am taking on a restoration project on my 59 vette which I have owned for 29 years. I would like to replace the door window liners which I have already purchased. Is there anywhere I can get written instructions on how to do this? do the windows and regulator have to come out? how, etc. appreciate any info. thanks, Dale

From Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC

Hi:  Yes the inter workings of the door need to come out, due to the fact that you cannot get the lower screws ( or rivets if you so choose to put in)  Originally the front edge had Phillips screws and metal retainers in addition to glue on the posts.  This is a good time to grease all of the window gears and door opening parts, plus align the window.  I can send you a three page instructions on this procedure, but if you are going to do a lot or restoration on the car you need three items (1) the Assembly manual for 59  (2)  The Corvette Servicing Guide (3) Noland Adam's Book  " the Complete Corvette Restoration and Technical Guide Vol # 1.  These will tell you most of what you need to know.  Let me know Thanks Larry.

**********

I am currently trying to make a deal on a 1957 and 1961 Corvette. I noticed that the newer 1961 has a linkage that run from the rear axle to the frame on each side (located over top of the rear leaf springs). I didn’t see this on the 1957 but I was wondering what year the linkage started and what it’s purpose is. I suppose it is to control axle wrap or to aid in braking performance but I thought I would ask. Is there any web sites that might show the difference between the frames in greater detail?

 

Terry Simpson

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi: :  All 56-57 Frames are generally the same, except for the transmission mounting, stick to automatic.  The 58-60 Frames are all three slightly different.  Beginning in 59 the traction bar was added (frame to rear axle housing), in 60 the Rear Stabilizer bar was added.  ( lower spring hanger to frame).  The 61-62 frames were changed again due to the rear body mounts, for the new rear body configuration.  The 57 did not have the traction bar or the rear stabilizer bar.  I would suggest that you purchase Noland Adam's "Restoration & Technical Guide- Vol.1"  This give you very good details of the frame and a bunch more data on the early cars.  The main purpose was to stop the rear spring wind up with the higher horsepower cars.  A side note, I have a very strong 59 - 270 hp. that in a full speed shift I bent both top leaves of the rear springs. Thanks and enjoy the car.  Larry  

From Max Brockhouse, SACC President:
This rod is called an anti-roll bar, it was added in 1960 to control rear wheel hop.

**********
hi my name is richie i am looking for specs on rearend i have to centers 1 370 nonposi  1 411 posi i want to change the 370 to a posi both ring gears are 37 teeth pinon one has 9 one has 10 i know i have to keep ring and pinion together i need a step by step and tork specs. thanks richie

From Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  Contact Drew at Corvette Stop 1-800-924-2493  They have all the data.  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

i need to put fuses in the fuse box of a 1962 327-340 4-speed, but when i am under the dash i can't read the small lettering on the right side of the fuse box....can you tell me the values and order of the new fuses...
 
thanks for your help
 
nearly blind in Cincinnati

From Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer: 

Hi  Your flasher unit should be on the lower left, as you face the fuse block under the dash. On the right side should be 6 fuse blanks the are as follows from bottom to top
      1. instrument and clock lights.                        3 amp
      2. heater                                                      10  "
      3. radio                                                          7 1/2 amp
      4. brake, & tail, interior                                  15 amp
      5.   Should be blank   ( No fuse)
      6. Parking Brake alarm                                  10 amp
 
            All are AGC fuses.  The Head lights have a circuit breaker (15amp) separate.
  On the top side of the flasher are some accessory plugs that could have anything plugged in over the years.
 
A word of caution the above is the original, so be careful that your car has not been haywired over the years, test each one separate to see if it does operate the correct circuit.  If it blows the correct amp fuse then you have a short in that circuit.  Do not put a larger fuse, find the short,  as Corvette's burn really good. Use a plastic fuse puller not a screw driver as you may get metal to metal and blow or burn something up.   Good luck   Thanks Larry                               

**********

I have been slowly restoring a 1960 two top roadster while enjoying the ride in Houston , Texas . I discovered a couple of years ago the rear end was not a 3.70 positrack but a 1957 passenger car unit.  I began the search for a P case unit and purchased one in Califorina, rebuilt and ready to install. Unfortunately I learned the hard way.  From the outset the clutches grabbed when in reverse or when turning causing tire drag. I have tried all the suggestions to remedy the problem, GM fluid, Ford fluid, driving in circles (forward and reverse) for extended periods and most anything else you can think of.  The unit has been out twice in recent months and sent to two different specialty shops in the Houston area without success.  The problems cited have included assembled wrong, wrong clutch spacers and the latest was the removal of paint which had been applied to the internal parts at the California shop where it was purchased.  Can anyone suggest a competent rebuild shop where I can ship this unit for a proper rebuild?  I am reinstalling the 1957 unit in order to enjoy the ride in the meantime.  The details on the car, built November 1959, original #’s 283 2x4 and tranny, spending part of its life in California (black CA VIN tag) although I purchased the car in North Carolina in a neglected condition.

Thanks

Pat Murray

From Larry Richter Founding Treasurer, SACC:

Hi:  The problem appears to be a miss-mash of parts.  Call Drew at the Corvette Stop 1-800-924-2493.  He has a guy that can fix the posi.   This may be a little spendy but it will work.   Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

Hello- I am in the process of trying to install a new windshield in my 59 vette via the process of doing it with the frame srill in the car.How do I get the top center piece with the 4 screws off.  is it pried off or how without damaging it? thanks, Dale


From Larry Richter, SACC Founding Treasurer:

Hi:  First off you should not try to install the new windshield with the frame in the car.  You need to remove all 9 bolts ( the two on each side you will need to remove the inside kick panel, as they are at the back edges).  Once the frame is off the car the four screws will come out and this piece snaps off. The end pieces come off by tipping them out. ( you cannot do this with the frame in the car.) Be sure to measure the distance in several places so the new glass is set at the same height and angle as the old one or your top will not fit correctly.  You need to be very careful how you handle the new glass as it will break quickly.  Suggestion, take the frame with the old glass in it along with the new windshield to a glass shop that understands the early Corvettes. After they take the frame apart you may want to polish the stainless and chrome that is the frame.  You should put a new rubber in around the new windshield while it is apart.  What you pay them is cheaper than a new windshield if you break it.  Have fun   Larry

**********

Dear Sirs,
 
    I have a 1961 Corvette with the original 283/ 230 engine, B/W transmission, etc. The car has
been restored to all original except for front disc brakes, dual master cylinder and SS gas tank. 
All gages, even the parking brake light, work. My problem is the passenger door. It lifts slightly
on closing. Enough so that with the window rolled up, and convertible top up, you have "slam"
the door shut.
The door rubs the mating top of the body to a point where there are grooves in the fiberglass.
The drivers door closes perfect.  
My question is: How do you adjust the doors. I have pulled the side panels but am unable to see where
the hinges are attached to the door. None of the assembly manuals I have show this area.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Sincerely,
John

From Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  First off there is no adjustment on the doors except on the latch when the door closes.  What you might do is to find a body shop that knows something about the early Corvettes.  This is usually done by bending the hinges ever so slightly ( They may need to be removed first ).  With proper alignment the door should close correctly. Caution, again be sure the body man knows what they are doing or they may break the body.   The problem with the window is one of two items.  First is the window, it may not be adjusted correctly.  To do this remove the inside door panel.  It will not take very much adjustment.  Second,  the top made need a adjustment.  If the break in the top bow that is over the window is not straight when the top is up that may be some of the problem.  That sag in the top bow has caused a lot of problems. Thanks and enjoy the car.   Thanks Larry

**********

 Gentlemen, I've been looking for a Neutral Safety Switch Assembly and Bracket for my powerglide. Do you know where I may locate one and have one fabricated? Thanks Terry

 

From: Larry Richter, SACC Founding Treasurer:

Hi:  Here is the story.  The 61 Corvette is a one year only on the switch.  I did considerable checking and this is going to be difficult to obtain.  All my parts suppliers do not have one, either NOS, used or repo. It appears that no one is reproducing them.  Beware, some of the suppliers list a 53 to 68 as one part.  During this period there were seven different part numbers in the Corvette parts manual, and therefore not a one size fits all.   The 62 has a slightly different configuration due to the change to an aluminum housing.  The 60 may be able to be modified to fit a 61, perhaps some one will know. All I can say is good luck  Thanks Larry


**********
I have a 58 290hp fuelie that looks to be originally  silver. Do you know the correct  paint codes for body, wheels and the two  different side cove option colors?

 Thanks
Mike

From Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:
I've attached two sheets in a "word" document that should answer all Mike's questions, except one...  The answer to that one is that all wheels on 1958 Corvettes were "silver", regardless of the body color.

Hope it helps.
Brad

Click HERE

 

 

 

 


**********

Hi I'm about to fit a new rear crossmember on my 59 chassis but not sure how it should be done I have the rivvet kit but no instructions don't know how they go in or where to weld and where to fit rivets can you please help, Thank you  

From Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  They are riveted on the back ( two each side) and welded on the front.  This weld needs to be the full width of the frame.  Now a word of caution at this time I would only tack weld the rear cross member on the front and put bolts where the rivets go.  Why? This rear cross member is the rear body mount and the rear inside bumper support plus a couple of other items.  This rear cross member is very critical to the proper alignment of the body.  If it is off just a fraction or your frame is not 100% perfect you will have problems.  When you fit the body and bumpers this brace may need to moved a fraction to have everything fit.  After you fit the body and it is perfect, then pull the bolts and install the rivets and weld the rear brace to the frame.  Also before you do the paint and final fit and painting of the body have the rolling frame with the running gear installed, and get a four wheel alignment at a good shop.  Too many times the body is attached and painted and when the body shop moves the frame around they will break the body, fiberglass cracks really easily.  Thanks Larry


**********

Good evening,
    Thank you so much for the information on the suspension shims. Now could you tell me if there is a video of book out there that you judges use during the inspections of the car. I want it to be right the first time out. I am doing all the work myself in my own garage. I would love to find a restoration video that would guide someone as myself through the correct assembly process of what was painted then assembled or assembled then painted as you mentioned in your first reply to me.
 
    I have the third edition NCRS judging manual but it still leave a lot of questions I have unanswered. I also have Noland Adams Restoration technical guide. I just ordered the NCRS technical guide as I am a NCRS member. Any suggestion in the matters would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
P.S. What a great web site you run here. It is great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

From Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  Glad to help. To my knowledge there are no video's available for the chassis on the early cars.  However I have some suggestions for you, (1) From NCRS get the assembly manual for your 60 and the CD for the 58 to 60 model years, these will tell you a bunch. Example if the judging manual and the pictures in Noland's book show a natural bolt holding the part on then there is a good chance the part was painted then assembled on the car. (2) Contact Tim Mickey ( National Team leader for 58-60).  He is listed in the front of the Restorer.  (3) If you can find a 58 to 60 Duntov car somewhere close to where you live and the owner is willing to let you photo the car that will be another good source.  Remember all most none of the G.M. Semi gloss was exactly the same shade, so what do you do.  Say, paint the frame with the way it came out of the can, then add a little flattner to the paint and paint more pieces that the assembled to the frame later.  Then add some more flattener and do more parts. This will give you the slight shade difference.  There are some of the chassis that were left natural.  What I do is to clean them back to the original raw material and cover them with a thin coat of semi-gloss clear.  This keeps it from rusting for a while. Looking down the road, be sure to get a four wheel alignment before you try to fit the body on the frame.  Good Luck  Thanks Larry


**********

Good day to you,
    Do you know where I could buy NOS tapered aluminum shims for the front crossmember of my 1960 corvette? I am just starting a Top Flite restoration and have a long road ahead. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

From Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  The only suggestion I have is the Corvette Stop 1-800-924-2493.  The are very good with the early cars and will be a good source for NOS parts and information (Ask for Noland or Drew)   I believe that Corvette Central has them in Reproduction at 1-800-345-4122.  Remember that you are doing a NCRS restoration so some the parts are either hidden or we ( as National Judges) do not look closely at the parts. Example:  The front shims are almost completely hidden, as are the king pins and break shoes.  Now the bolts holding the A-arms together, the front stabilizer bar, the steering assembly and shocks are visible to the judge.  So be aware what is hidden and what is visible.  We not only judge the configuration but the type of finish on the part.  Be sure to consider if the part was painted and assembled or assembled and then painted, big difference.  Thanks Larry

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I'm finally getting to restore my 1961, do you know if the Honduras
>> Maroon
>> was available with a silver insert, or do you know where I can find out?
>> Thanks,
>> J.B.

From Larry Richter, Founding treasurer of SACC:



Hi; The original paint code for your car in a solid color is #523.  The only factory cove color for maroon was white and that was paint code #529.  The
cars were originally painted a solid color then the cove was painted over
the main color. If you are not going to have the car judged and you like
silver in the cove "go for it"  Enjoy the car. Thanks.
 Larry


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I have an older corvette and would like to do work on the interior door panels because they are cracking in spots  and would like to know how to repair them by myself and finding out the proper way/tricks and hints from the experts .

Thank you,

Mel

From Larry Richter, founding treasurer of SACC:

 

To my knowledge there is no repair or companies that do repair on door panels on our early cars. You will find various products that claim to but it does not work.  I would suggest you buy new one's, and save the old one's just in case someone really can repair them.  Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi, I recently purchased a 1961 vett and stumbled across your site while trying to get info on wheel alignment. While I'm at it I have other questions also. Answers to any or all questions will be greatly appreciated. Some background first. The car is a '61 last #'s 110435 with a '65 327 365 hp motor, Muncie m21 (I think? no drain plug) and a Hurst shifter, everything else is pretty original with the exception of the paint, door panels and maybe the seat covers. I am told it had an old frame off resto ( I believe it as I inspected it closely on a lift and the frame still has paint on it and appears rock solid with no rust at all) and has been sitting for years. There does not seem to be any body repairs, all bonding strips there with factory fiberglass oozing out. All gauges work except tach (generator drive noisy so was disconnected ) and speedo. All gauge lights work, lights, blinkers, etc. The heater motor wasn't working but after crawling around under the dash I found it was just a fuse. I got a kick out of the close-line type drive for the windshield wiper drive, I've never seen that before, I tinkered with cars when I was younger but my oldest till now was a 64 GTO tri-power( wish I still had that one, I sold it with an extra parts years ago for $400! ) Anyway I am pleased with my vett except for the following:
 
> The car pulls to the right, can Is it assimple as adjusting the tie rod ends myself or should I get a professional?
 
> The steering wheel has a "flat" spot or a "skip" that seems to occur in different steering wheel positions at different times. Sometimes it happens around a slight corner, sometimes going straight. I have only driven the car close to home and go pretty slow, but is this an immently dangerous situation, could something break or is it just a tired steering box? I seem to recall reading something about this as common on C1's but can't remember where I read it.
 
> Is my car supposed to have a rear sway bar? I understand a sway bar was added from 59 to 60 but mine doesn't have one or the straps that hold up the rear end ( the brackets are there but no straps )  
 
>The car is fitted with rear air shocks, is there any reason this is not a good situation?
 
> I understand the front wheel bearings are not the greatest and need frequent greasing. Am I looking for trouble trying to dissemble, inspect, and re-pack them myself? Should I purchase replacement bearings before I even start? Can you recommend where to purchase them? I read about tightening to 15 ft lbs then back off is this correct information? Do you recommend or are there updated bearing assemblies available? This car was not purchased for any daily,long distance, highway, or high speed driving just a weekend cruiser. 
 
> The rear end seems about 1/4" off center, i.e. the tires are about 1/4" away from the springs on the left side and 3/4" on the right. Is this ok or does it need to be corrected?
 
Thank you in advance for any information/advice you can give.

From Larry Richter, founding SACC treasurer:

Hi:  First off you need to make the car drive correctly and safe.  It sounds like you need to have the steering gear box and the complete front end re-built.  The actual rebuilding you can do your self with new parts if you have the ability and the tools to do the job. You may need such items as king pins, upper and lower bushings and so on. You may want to take the car to someone that understands early Corvettes and just a every day shop.  Shop around your area and get references.  No references on early cars forget the shop. 
I would recommend a change over from the front ball bearings to the roller bearings.  They work great.  Next you need a good high end set of radials.  P205/75R 15 tires.  If you get Volume 14 # 1 of the club magazine " On solid Ground" I wrote a article where you can use a G.M. wheel that is 15X6 and the instructions of the how and where.  They really drive great.
Yes the Rear Stabilizer bar was standard equipment in the 61.
You really do not need rear air shocks just good new ones.  If the car sits too low in the back without the air shocks then you need to have the rear springs re-arched.  Be sure to take them to some who has the original measurements for the arch.
The car will not drive correctly until you do all of the above and get a four wheel alignment.  You may also have rear axle problems ( ie something is bent )
Corvette Central at 1-800-345-4122 is a good source of all the parts.    It sounds like this is not going to be a quick fix, but done correctly the first time for safety and you should get a lot of years of fun driving, go enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

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Hi...I have a 1954 Corvette for which I have been searching for front and rear pinion bearings with no luck.  I have just about worn out my welcome on Google, I have been there so much.  Do you have any suggestions as to where one might find those bearings?
 
Thanks for your help
Dave

From Larry Richter, past Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  Contact the Corvette Stop at 1-800-924-2493 or 1-530-677-4270  and talk to either Drew or Noland.  They should have them.  Thanks Larry

 

 

 

 

 

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