Technical Help from the Solid Axle Corvette Club

 

 

To submit a technical question regarding a 1953 to 1962 Corvette, simply email
sacctech@solidaxle.org. In the subject box you need to put "sacctech/ (your SACC
membership number)".  Example: sacctech/1234
If you are not a member, your question will not be excluded, however, it won't get priority.

Disclaimer:
Our officers enjoy answering questions about your Corvette. Please keep in mind before asking questions that we are not qualified or certified to diagnose problems you may be experiencing with your Corvette. It is recommended that an A.S.E. (Automotive Service Excellence) certified automotive technician diagnose the vehicle for you. This way you get an accurate diagnoses on the problem and an understanding of the parts necessary to remedy the problem

Keep in mind that members enjoy a wealth of information via the SACC quarterly magazine, On Solid Ground.  Here are some of the topics contained in the Spring, 2008 issue:

-Insulate Your Solid Axle

-1956 Goodyear Corvette

-Harmonic Balancer Re-Install

-Six Cylinder Corner

-Will We Need NOS Engine Oil for out Old Cars?

-The Willet Run Garage

-The Marketplace - Member Classified Ads

**********
hi. I am not a member. but i have a question. i am trying to remove the speedometer cluster from a1961 corvette.ihave removed thetwo screws and the nut  from the cluster under the dash. but do not seem to have a lot of wiggle room to remove the speedometer from under the dash to replace the speedo needle. any help would be appreciated. also would like to have a membership application. thank you

 From: Ken Amrick, Editor, On Solid Ground, and East Region Representative:  

I'm not aware that you can remove the speedometer from the dash without first removing the instrument cluster.  There is an article on tips for removing the instrument cluster in the Spring 2005 issue of our club magazine.  Back issues of the magazine when available can be purchased from the editor for $6.00 each. 
Because is is so difficult for most of us to fit under the dash to remove the attachment nuts, most of us remove the steering wheel and the seat assembly before starting on the instrument panel.  Some of the attaching nuts are located way back in the area where the windshield end post is attached to the body.  You will need a 1/4 inch drive with a swivel adapter to remove them. (I think there are 2 in this area if I remember correctly.)  It's not a difficult job, but it's not a pleasent one either.  It is hard on the back and a time consuming job.  Be sure to pad the steering column when sliding the instrument cluster out to keep it from getting scratched up.  Ken

**********
Where might I ind a accurate 1960 Corvette Radio Ground Strap Kit Diagram and description of each ground strap.
Thank You
Leland # 2768
 From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Purchase an original assembly manual for your 1960 from either Corvette Central, Mid America or NCRS.  In it you will find diagrams showing where each ground strap is located.

 

 

 

**********

I have a 62 Corvette with non-matching number engine and transmission and I am not sure about the differential. I am ordering a transmission from Eddie Wass to match the car.  He asked if I wanted a close ratio or wide ratio transmission.  I am not sure what to tell him. I plan to find the correct block to put in a 300 hp engine.  I have most of the parts gathered up for that, except for an 870 bock dated late May or early June (I actually have two 870 blocks, neither have the correct dates though).  I believe the build date for my car was around July 6th 1962.

  I looked at the differential and the only things I saw on it are the numbers 3725899 and an E-157. Since I have the money saved for the transmission, I want to change that out first.  Do I tell him to build a close ratio or wide ratio transmission? If you need my VIN it is 20867S113613.

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

David,

  Your 1962 Corvette with a 300 HP engine was originally equipped with a wide ratio four speed manual transmission. The close ratio transmission was for the higher horsepower 340 and 360 engines. The intent was to keep the engine revolutions up when shifting between second, third, and fourth while racing.

  A Corvette driven on the street is much easier to drive with a wide ratio transmission. With a close ratio transmission, it will seem like you are always be starting in second gear. Even if it had a close ratio originally, I would recommend a wide ratio for normal street driving.

  Good luck with your ’62.

  Cheers, Noland Adams

**********

top will not go down enough i have to force lid down tight on corners on my 1959 corvette. what is the problem.  thanks dave.

Hi;  If you were able to latch the top in prior years, then it could be.
1- If you left the top down for any length of time the material shrinks, so set in the in sun for a day or two and it should come back.  Never leave your top down for any length of time. ( I put mine up and latch it every night.)
2 - Something has moved in your frame work. You may be able to tell at the attachment bolts on each side behind the seat.  You may need to call around to find a shop that understands an early Corvette top and have them adjust it.
3-  The front latches have moved.  It should fit tight against the windshield but these can be adjusted.
4-  The top pads are pinched in the frame work.  These belong on the top of the frame when the top is up
5 - If the top is very hard to latch, there is a good chance that you will pull the windshield out of the frame and this requires the windshield frame to come off.  OUCH. This is a project.
6 - The rivets in the frame may be loose and causing the frame to move around.  This will cause the frame to be rebuilt and new canvas put on.
 
If it is a new top take it back to the upholstery shop.  What happened is the top frame was not fit to the car before the canvas was attached.  They may need to get new canvas and start over. Very few upholstery shops know how to put on any convertible top.
 
Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

**********
I have seen Inca Silver 58’s with Black and also White side coves, which is the correct color ? I believe it is Black but is it possible that late 58’s could have had White coves like the 59’s did ?

Thanks
Mike

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:  

Hi:  Silver was not a color on the early (first series) of the 58.  Silver was on the later 58's and the cove color was black.  Hope this helps.  Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

I  own 59 corvete serial #  J59 S100146
I AM TOLD IT WAS BUILT  SEPT 11 1958 THE CAR HAS A 350 IN IT AND I  FOUND
THE ORIGINAL CARBS 270 HORSE AND THE DISTRIBUTOR

WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR IN 1976 IT HAD A 283 2 BARREL
I NOW WANT TO BUILD UP THE CORRECT ENGINE THE TACH HAS A 6500 RPM  REDLINE
AND WHEN I PURCHASED IT IN 1976 THEY GAVE ME THE CORRECT MANIFOLD  IT WAS IN
THE TRUNK I  BELIEVE IT IS A 270 HORSE ORIGINALLY SINCE IT HAS  THE 6500
RPM REDLINE NOT A FEULIE

I  FOUND A 3756519 BLOCK BUT IT SAYS SEPT 58 SO THAT WON'T DO SO HOW  FAR
BACK CAN I GO AS FAR AS A CASTING DATE TO HAVE THE CORRECT ENGINE  SHOULD I
GO BACK 2 OR 3 MONTHS

THEY SAY THEY CAN RE STAMP IT AS A CU AND GET ME ON MY WAY BUT I WAS
CURIOUS HOW FAR BACK I COULD GO I'M LOOKING EVERYWHERE AND I DO WANT TO MAKE
THIS CORRECT SO I CAN GIVE IT TO MY CHILDREN ONE  DAY.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:
 

Hi:  Your car was a very early 59.  Now if the engine was assembled ( on the 
front right block pad) in Sept 58, or cast ( back of the block on the 
flywheel flange) and put into the car on or about the11th, it is almost 
impossible.  10 total days from final assembly in flint to placement in the 
car in St. Louis?  You really need a engine cast and assembled in mid August 
of 58 ( or before) to have it in your car.  You really need a 3737739 block, 
The 519 block may work as this was the change over in early 59 as long as it 
is a Aug cast date.
At NCRS most re-stamps are detected, as we read the broach marks and the 
stamp in and of itself. However some of the re-stampers and doing a better 
job. You need to obtain the original parts and have them rebuilt, as most 
reproductions have differences.
Just keep looking for a good block as one will come along.
On your tach the yellow line should start at 6,000 and go to 6,300 and then 
red from the 6,300 to 6,500.
 Keep enjoying the car and have fun.  Thanks Larry


**********

Hi gentlemen, I am looking for seat belts for my 1958. Any recommendations, how can I be sure that I am buying correct material color and hardware?
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:
Hi: 1958 Seat Belts are all the same. They are a gray four-web weave material with the potmetal handle painted in blue Hammertone. The Original belts had a chrome plated male end. It may or may not have "235" stamped on it. The belt with the female buckle had a Irving Air Chute tag attached with city and U.S. Patent # 2,458,810. Generally the originals have been found to have the female buckles in the outboard side. Comment: If you are not showing the car you may want to get close and save some money. Enjoy the car. Thanks Larry


**********

I'm looking for a pair of trunk spears for my 1958 Corvette. I would 
appreciate any suggestions on this subject. Thanks.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  The original trunk spears are hollow inside, therefore they are a lot 
lighter then the reproduction.  If you are looking at originals make sure 
they either have good chrome or can be re-chromed.  Not all shops can chrome 
them.  The reproductions are about half price of the originals or less and 
are solid.  What happens is the springs that hold the trunk up will not take 
the additional weight and you need a broom stick to hold up the trunk lid. 
The do make a kit to increase the tension on the springs that works well. 
Good luck and enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:
I see that Larry Richter has answered you, but I have some additional


information about reproduction trunk spears. There are at least four sources

 
for the reproductions. One company was located in 

Michigan

, but they stopped

 
making them, the last I heard. They had a quality problem, resulting in some

 
poor fitting pieces with a less than perfect exterior plating surface.

 
A more recent manufacturer was in 

Texas

. These reproductions were aluminum,

 
cast in 

Mexico

. The price was just a few hundred dollars, but the aluminum

 
was porous and it took a lot of work to prepare the surfaces for plating.



 
A machine shop located in 

Minnesota

 (as I recall) had a special guide made

 
for their computer guided milling machines. Because there are complex

 
compound curves, and the left is different from the right, a lot of

 
machining had to be done to a large aluminum billet. The result was an

 
expensive but perfect reproduction, ready for plating. The price for each

 
side was in the $1,300.00 to $1,400.00 range. Once again, this was for just

 one part.



 
Now that I think about it, I can't remember details about the fourth source

 
for '58 trunk spear reproductions. Maybe it was just three guys that made

 
them. They say the memory is one of the first senses to go. I'll miss my

 
memory- I wonder where I left it.



 

Good Luck, Noland Adams

**********
I'M WORKING ON A 1960 CORVETTE TRYING TO FIT THE DOORS ,THE PROBLEM IS THE PASSENGER DOOR MAKES STRANGE CREAKING NOISES AND I CAN'T SEEM TO FIND THE CAUSE.I HAVE REPLACED THE HINGES AND THE NEW ONES MAKE THE SAME NOISE.WHEN OPERATING THE HINGES WITHOUT THE DOOR ON THERE IS NO NOISE BUT AFTER INSTALLING THE DOOR THE NOISE RETURNS.I HAVE TRIED SHIMS IN DIFFERENT PLACES WITH NO LUCK,SO I'M AT A LOSS AS TO THE REASON FOR THE CREAKING NOISES.  THE DRIVES DOOR WORKS GREAT WITH NO NOISE...THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP WITH THIS MYSTERY---RON

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

Ron,

The only part that could make noises when one of the doors is moved is the hinge pins and bushings. The pin in each hinge has two bushings. First, I would try soaking the hinge pins and bushings with a penetrating oil. If the noise prevails, it is possible the pins and bushings are worn, but this usually happens to the driver’s door. You can purchase pin and bushing kits at Corvette Central or other reliable parts sources.   Good luck,

  Noland Adams


**********
Does anyone have experience with a Mallory 4264511 distributor as a replacement for an OEM unit in a C1.  This distributor has Corvette tach drive, magnetic breaker, vacuum and mechanical advance and wires up to the stock ballast resistor and a stock or high-output coil. (NOT a coil-in-cap HEI). The engine currently in my 62 is a Gen 1 350 with a dual point distributor and mechanical advance only a la 62 327/340 distributor.  Mechanical advance only isn't the greatest set up for street driving especially with an L46 cam(350/350) and a 3.55 rear so I am looking to make a change. 

Thanks for any input.

 From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Hal,

I’ve been watching your progress on getting the ’62 restored. I just wanted to wish to well, although I can’t help you on this distributor problem.

  Cheers,       Noland Adams

**********

First, you guys are great!  I'm sending in my membership this week.  I have another question on the windshield install of my '61.  It is in the shop and they tell me the lower channel is bent.  I am sceptical as everything looked great when the assy came off the car, and fit good when reinstalled six months ago.  I took it in because the gasket across the top had pulled out and got rolled under the top of the windshield exposing the outer edge of the windshield (probably from a too tight top install).  the car has never been hit near the windshild.  Have you ever heard of this phenomena and how would that affect fit across the entire top edge of the assy?
 
Thanks for being there for us.

From: Max Brockhouse, President of SACC:  
I bet the corners of your windshield tabs are broken off.  This will cause the weather strip to have a gap.  Send them to Corvette Central to have them rebuilt.  Glass installers back in the day would not remove the windshields, just pry them back to allow room to replace the glass and after 50 years of a soft top pulling back on the frame, they break.

 



**********

I am replacing a six cylinder Blue Flame engine back into a 1954 that had a V8 installed and need to find a repair manual or some kind of literature/diagram/photos that shows how this is done regarding placement of all parts, lines, wires, etc.  Can you recommend any sources?

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

Roger,

  There weren’t many repair manuals for Corvettes before 1956. The best reference is the book I wrote on 1953 to 1962 Corvette Restoration, which covers six cylinder Corvette engines in detail.

  Therefore this is a shameless advertisement for my book. It is available from me, Noland Adams, PO Box 1134 , El Dorado , CA 95623 . The book lists for $79.95, but I can offer it for $70.00 plus $5.00 shipping and handling. Send me a check or money order for $75.00; be sure to include any special message to go along with my autograph.

  Good Luck,

  Noland Adams

**********

Can you tell me what the standard shop time to replace a windshield in my 1961 Corvette should take?  (ie: what was the standard shop rate time expected from removal of the assy, replacement of the glass, to reinstallation in the car.

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  A standard shop should not be considered.  Best go to a Corvette shop that works on early Corvettes.  The window frame will have to be removed and is held down by a bolt about every 7 or 8 inches that is access under the padded dash.  If you are handy, best do it yourself as it will take most of a day.

 


From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi: Here on the west coast they allow between 5 & 7 hours at about $50 to $70 per hour.  On the early cars you must get under the dash to remove the windshield.  You can save a bunch if you remove the windshield with the frame ( they come off together). Be very careful of the bolts on the back corners as the are difficult to get out without breaking them off.  They can be brazed back on by a expert in welding.  Once that is complete you can remove the bright work around the glass.  Now is a good time to have it polished and any dents removed.  Try to find a shop that has changed a early Corvettes windshield before, or you may have problems that you never dreamed could happen.
You need a expert to re-install the glass in the rubber and get it to fit into the bright work channel and back on the car.   You need to check the top after replacing the windshield in the car to make sure your top fits as it should and check the door fit.   Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry


**********
Hello

I have a 1958 Roadster (Have owned it for 41 years now) I just got it back from restoration / paint folks. Putting back together. During the restoration, a new interior, including dashpad was installed. My problem: Brake lights work fine, as does turn signals. However, when I pull headlight switch out, even at parklight position, the brakelight rear light fuse  (10 Amp) blows. Headlights continue to burn. Could my problem be in the rear taillight housing, even if the brake and turn signal side still works? Any insight you can give me will be greatly appreciated.  Also, I am very interested in joining the solid axle Club.

Many Thanks

 From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:

My guess is a grounding problem in the left rear taillight area. I would buy a bucket of fuses and try removing hot wires until the problem goes away. Then you have the faulty source surrounded. Another problem area might be the turn signal switch just under the steering wheel. If I had a 1958 to 1960 Corvette available, I might be able to duplicate the problem and thus provide a solution. Since I have never experienced this personally, I can only offer a thoughtful guess about the cure.

 

Good Luck, Noland Adams

                        SACC # 1 

Note from web editor:  If you would like to speak to Noland personally, he will be at our convention this summer.  Click on
'2010 Convention' for details.  To join SACC, it is easy, just click on 'OUR MEMBERSHIP' and print the application form.  Send it in.  Easy as that.  Hope you join us!
Jack "Doc" Hollada

**********

Can you tell me if there is a site I can go to that will give me the bolt

torque for a quick steering adapter and the proper installation

illustration?

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi : I have researched your question on the Quick steering and do not have an answer on the installation or the bolt torque. The best I can do is Section 9 in the Corvette Service Guide it gives the torque for the factory steering assembly ( page 9-10 & 9-11) This may be some help. Also perhaps Corvette Central would have some information. Good Luck Thanks Larry

From Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

In 1958 I had a 1957 Corvette with a 270 engine and a 3 speed close ratio transmission. I bought a quick steering adapter over the Chevy parts counter. That's been over 50 years ago, but it didn't come with installation instructions at all, as I recall. It was obvious that the tapered studs went into the tapered holes. The method we used was to tighten them as tight as we could. If the bolt or stud broke off, we backed it off half a turn.

Good Luck,

Noland Adams

SACC # 1



**********

Which other vehicle rear end housing will fit a 1959 Corvette without major modification?

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:
Any full size 1953 Chevy sedan.  In 1960 the Corvette rear end was changed.

 

 


**********

How do I remove the manual window regulator assembly on driver side?

Thank you,
Tom Richards

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of Sacc:

Hi: You need to remove the two screws holding on the arm rest assembly.  Then remove the handles and window cranks, You will need to remove the horseshoe clips holding them on from behind ( careful not to slice you door panel). Unscrew the locking knob. If you do not have the correct tool go buy

one. ( about 3 or 4 dollars) Remove all the screws holding on the panel.  Pull out from the bottom with your hands and lift up to remove.  Next remove the end molding on the top of the door and the outside top molding ( screws are on the inside) Do the same with the inside molding.  Remove the inspection plate ( big one bottom back and almost square) Thenput the window crank back on ( no clips required) and run the window up or  down until the sash retaining screws are visible ( one will be visible on the top front of the large inspection plate and the other one in the round  inspection hole about 8 or 10 inches forward from the inspection plate.  Remove these two screws.  You may need to pry up on the bottom channel to make the window loose.  The carefully remove the glass ( bottom channel still attached from the top  of the door.) Have some help and do not drop.  Remove the screws retaining the regulator and then from the car. Make sure you have the correct replacement before you put the old one in the garbage. Comments: Be sure to mark everything so you window will fit back in the same as it came out. Grease everything so it will work correctly especially the guide's and gear. Before you install the door panel make sure everything works correctly and the fit is correct.

Good Luck and enjoy the car. Thanks Larry

**********

Hello,
There are three set type screws at the pinion area of the diff. Is there a torque spec on these screws or is there a specific tightening instruction?

From: Larry Richter, founding treasurer of SACC:

Hi: The Corvette Service Guide states the following. Under Pinion Assembly
 #5.  Install three tapered lock screws and draw them down evenly and tightly, then tighten lock screw nuts.
 Note.  A statement in general states  " All bolts should be tightened to 40-60 Ft. Pounds."
If you need more data let me know your fax number and I will fax you several pages of the
manual    Thanks and enjoy the car.  Larry

**********

Gentlemen,

 Two Questions:

1. I have a posi rear end in my 1960 fuelie. I need to add some posi fluid. The person that restored my corvette stated not use new synthetic posi fluid but the "whale fat" posi fluid that the car was  manufactured with. Is this true? If so, where do I go to purchase this  type of "natural" posi fluid?

 2. Car has sat in my garage from late summer until now. When I parked the car for winter, everything worked  great. However, I started the car today and when the clutch is  depressed, it will not shift into gear. What is the possible problem  and solution? Thanks For the help. I'm stationed out here at Beaufort SC and there is not a "go to" place for classic corvettes in the area

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi; I would use the original type of oil with the additive in you possiunit. The problem is that the new synthetic type makes the clutches veryslick and may not work correctly. The newer units are built for thesynthetic fluid. G.M. dealerships should be able to get the product. If

not try the better parts stores.  On your second question. Is the clutch releasing so the transmission can go in to gear? If it is not rock the car in gear with the clutch depressed as the clutch is stuck. You may even try to turn the engine over with the battery in gear with the clutch pushed in. Be sure your battery is of full charge. If this does not work and the car is so you can start it in gear you may try to drive the car with the clutch pushed in, and hit the brake pedal hard, maybe several times. Be very careful and ready to turn the engine off if something happens. Perhaps have some one ride with you with the their hand on the key. Again be very careful. If the problem is not in the clutch then it is either a transmission linkage problem or an internal transmission problem.Please contact us if the above does not work. Good luck and enjoy the car.

Larry

**********
I just last week, joined SACC and thought I'd run a question by your tech "experts".
I've had my 1961 Corvette since the mid 70's.
It is a "correct" 270 HP car, and we drive the "pants off of it"!
During a recent tune-up attempt, I became extremely frustrated trying to obtaining a "set" of dual points that I could get proper dwell.  Several trips to NAPA and returning junk; even bent rotors.
At any rate, I deceided to purchase an Ignitor from Pertronix.
After a complete tune up, including plugs and adjusting the lifters, etc, I attemped to time the car.
I brought the mark to 12 degrees advance as I alway do, but it would barely idle.
After adjusting the idle, I took it for a ride and "no power" - extremely retarded!
I then timed it by ear, taking the timing mark past 12 degees and up to about 1:00 PM on the balancer; took it for a ride and it goes "like stink"!
I crawled under the car, took off the bottom pulley to check the balancer.
It was still "all lined up" with the key way, and not slipping within its rubber.
Emailed Pertronix and the tech person said my distributor needs stronger mechanical advance springs; that there is no resistance with the Ignitor but some resistance with the old dual points.
Put the light on the car again and reved up the motor and the mark stays at the same place, 2:00 PM - -   So "no advance"??!!
Ever heard of this?  Are they correct; I need my distributor checked for stronger mechanical advance springs?
Thanks for your input and help!
Jim
From:  Bill Herron, SACC Treasurer:  

Hi Jim,
 
I've had a Pertronix unit on my 57 since 1999.  I replaced the dual points and condenser with the (then latest) unit and basically did nothing else but drive the stink outta the car (just like you).  The only problem I had dealt with using the shorter "points" attaching screw when installing the distributor module; the screw loosened up after a multi-lap jaunt around Atlanta Motor Speedway (at substantially higher than legal speeds, I might add ~130mph!) and temporarily stranded me on I-75 at downtown Atlanta that evening.  I was able to diagnose the problem, replace the short screw with the longer "condenser" screw and have not looked under the distributor cap since.  I still keep the dual points, condenser (and short screw) in the trunk just in case!  Without referring to my records I am confident that I've put 25k+ miles on the car in the meantime, including trips to CA, MI, KY and IL all from FL and back.
 
In a nutshell, I haven't had problem one with my unit.  I did remove my distributor and had it checked on an old Sun distributor machine - it was in good working order.  Maybe you can find an "old school" shop in your vicinity that still has a Sun machine (and someone who can operate it)!  I hope this helps...
 

**********
Can someone tell me the thread size of a stock '57 corvette 4-speed shifter knob? Thanks, Ron.
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  The thread size is 5/16 -18  Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

 

 

 

**********


I need a vin plate for my 57 vette. It was lost when  it was painted. I have the title and have owned the car for 25 years. can you help, or tell where I can get one.  Cal
 From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:  

I'm sure you are a very honest person with honorable intentions. Unfortunately, there are some not so honest people out there. And because of them, there are several people/companies who reproduce "cowl" and "trim" tags, but no longer produce VIN tags.

Over the years, I've discussed this with a few of them and all were very explicit about this point: if they make a VIN tag, and even if unknown to them it is used to disguise a stolen car, or defraud a customer about a car's true history, if discovered, they could be charged as an accessory.

I'm sure there is someone who provides this service, but sorry, I don't know who they are. However, if you search the internet long enough and follow-up with phone calls, you'll probably succeed in your search.

 

 

 

**********

I'm not a member, but I do have a ' 61 Vette that I'm trying to positvely identify the engine. The car is supposed to be a real F.I. car, and from all the published "signs" to look for it's the real deal. The engine nubers are as follows:
 
Casting #s at the rear of the block are 3756519----D99
Stamped #s on the front are F414CS, no other #s (VIN) are present.
 
The VIN on the car indicates it was built mid November 1960. From the research I've done, the block is the correct type but doesn't seem to be the correct year. Any help you can furnish will be greatly appreciated.
 
                                                                                                  Thanks in advance

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC: 

Don,
 
The CS engine is a fuel injected engine with mechanical lifters. I would check the left inner fender panel to see if there are holes which held brackets around the large air inlet hose to the air cleaner. You didn't provide your serial number, but you stated it was built in mid-November 1960, which means it is a 1961 with a serial number about 102500.
 
Your engine's assembly date is F414CS. The "F" means it was assembled at the Flint engine plant, and "414" means it was assembled on March 14th.
 
Now we go to the engine casting number 3758519 and the casting date code D99. The 519 block was used from 1959 through 1961. The date D99 means April 9, 1959.
 
In building a production calender, we have:
 
519 block, cast D99- April 9, 1959
engine assembly date F414CS- April 14, 1959
Your '61's build date- mid-November 1960
 
I have watched the production and assembly of engines and Corvettes at the Grey Iron Foundry in Saginaw, The Flint V8 engine plant, and the Corvette assembly line in St. Louis. There are two factors in identifying your engine. First, about one and one-half years elapsed between the time the engine was built and your '61 was built. The other is the lack of a serial number on the front engine pad. That means the engine was built at Flint, but was never shipped to the St. Louis Corvette plant. Instead, it was shipped as a long block to a Chevrolet dealer who ordered it as a special order. Long  blocks come complete with heads, valve covers, and oil pan. I'm guessing now- sometime in 1961 the owner of your '61 was looking for a replacement engine. The parts department of a dealer just happened to have an older long block available, and it was purchased and installed in your '61.
 
I am reasonably sure this is what happened in this case. Be aware that because it has a high hp mechanical lifter fuel injected engine in it now, that does not help to identify the original engine.
 
Good Luck,
 
Noland Adams

*Note from Doc Hollada, Website Editor:  Don, hopefully you will click on to "Our Membership" and download the membership form, a pdf file.  Send in your dues and the membership form, then join us at Bowling Green this summer and converse with Noland in person.


**********
I have a '58 car and I can see the crescent shaped arm bent and the pin hinge for the crescent arm coming half way out as the trunk lid closes.  This causes the trunk lid on the left side does not go all the way down, causing a bad fit.

Can a body shop change parts of the hinge tower with removing the body rivets for the hinge tower?
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  First remove the trunk divider board and examine both hinges and towers. You may have a problem on both sides.  A good shop may be able to bend the part and or parts back to the original shape.  If excess wear is apparent replace the part or parts.  If you have reproduction trunk irons you may want to put the after market springs in to hold the trunk lid up.   These are a lot heavier than the original.  ( if the irons are hollow brass they are the original type). If solid they are reproduction.  There is a small amount of adjustment through the shims that can be made on the trunk lid.   Thanks and enjoy the car.  Larry

**********

I just sent in my dues to rejoin after a long time.  The serial number on my car is 20867S10809.  My car is on the final stages of restoration and I'm down to having the hardtop restored.  Here's my question.
 
What is the correct color for the headliner in a 1962 Corvette?
 
In one of the Corvette books I thought I saw a description of the top for 62 having a white headliner and a black headliner for the 61 model year.  I have two hardtops for my car.  (one for restoration and one for parts)  The nicer of the two has the black headliner.  I haven't been able to locate that information again and need to know which is correct for my car before I get the hardtop restoration started.  Although my car will be a driver I'm doing everything my budget can tolerate to make it as correct as possible.
 
Do you know which Corvette book had this info in it?
 
Thanks in advance,

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  All 62 Corvettes had a white headliner in the hardtop.  From the front their are two one inch heat seams ( inch apart center to center) going across the car. ( door to door) then a two inch gap and most of the top are the one inch heat seams going front to back.  The same heat seams pattern is on your door panels.  Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice-President: 
Of the 14,531 Corvettes produced for 1962, 11,256 were equipped with the RPO 419, hardtop. 8,074 were manufactured with both softtop and auxiliary hardtop, while 3,179 came with hardtop only.

The '56 thru '60 Corvette hardtop headliners matched the color and pattern of the car's vinyl interior. However that changed in 1961...

Although not offered as an interior color for either '61 or '62, I believe the only color offered for both years for headliner was "white".

Hope this helps.

 

 


**********

I have a problem on my 1962 Corvette in that the engine cooling fan blades are very low in the radiator shroud, so low that the tips only clears at the bottom of the shroud by 3/8”.  The shroud is stock and the fan is a stock 17” diameter.  All of the rubber engine mounts are in place, both at the engine and the transmission.  The transmission mount, at the cross member, has one shim on each side of the cross member spacing the transmission downward.  This is a low mileage Corvette that does not appear to ever been wrecked and all of the previous owners do not report any damage history.

  I cannot see any way to raise the front of the engine at the mount except to shim under the rubber engine mounts with washers.  But to shim here would take over an inch to come close to raising and centering the blades in the shroud.  To lower the transmission, which would raise the fan, would take even more shimming than the front mounts.  This could cause a driveline angle problem.  I have tried to find out what the driveline angle should be but there is nothing on this subject, can you also let me know what the angle range should be at the drive shaft and the engine?  Where all front top rubber mounts the same thickness?

  If needed, I would be glad to give you a call to discuss.

  Thank you for any help on this problem,

  Jack  

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  The fan is not centered within the fan shroud.  The specks call for the following about 3/8 to 7/16 of a inch on the bottom and about 1 and 1/2 inch on the top.  It should have about 1 inch at the 90 and 270 degree on the sides, with a stock 17inch fan and stock shroud.   You fan appears to be right where it should be.  You do not want to raise the front of the motor for a lot of reasons.  Go have fun  Thanks Larry


**********

 I AM DOING A 1960 VETTE AND NEED INFORMATION ON REPLACING THE WINDSHIELD RUBBER . I HAVE THE WINDSHIELD OUT AND THE NEW RUBBER GASKET,BUT THE METHOD OF INSTALLING IT IS NOT AS EASY AS THE SERVICE MANUAL MAKES IT SOUND. IF YOU CAN SHED ANY LIGHT ON THE INSTALLATION PROCEDURE IT WOULD BE A GREAT HELP.
I TRIED LUBRICATION ON THE RUBBER TO GET THE LOWER CHANNEL AND TRIM ON WITH NO LUCK AND DON'T WANT TO BREAK THE ORIG GLASS TRYING.....
Hi:  I have helped on several of these and all have needed an expert.   My very strong advice is to take it to someone that knows how to set it in the frame correctly.  You can have all kinds of problems if this is not correct.  Most common are leaks, top not fitting correctly, windows not going to the full height and on and on.  Good Luck  Thanks Larry

 


**********

I have a completely reconditioned 1960 Horizon Blue 290 HP Fuel Injected Corvette with a Frost Blue Interior I have owned for 41 years this coming January.

I recently attended the FL NCRS Chapter Judging event a Howey-In-The Hills Fl.  During the judging there were several thing that the judges mentioned that

I needed to correct before the January NCRS Judging Event that is held at Old Town in Kissimmee Fl.  One was that I need to install several screws in the carpet, the other one was that I needed to find and install the correct capacitors with the correct numbers.  MY first question is, where are these screws located

In the carpet (a picture would be nice) and my second question is what are the numbers on these three capacitors and where would be a good place to order them?

  I met Mr. Adams at the opening of the Corvette Museum in 1994.  He was kind enough that day to sigh my Corvette Restoration Book Vol. 1.  As I mentioned above

I have owned my 60 Fuelie for 41 years and it was completely reconditioned 2 ½ years ago and I have enjoyed driving it all over Florida . At the local car shows I spoke with several people that worked on the early Corvettes from the beginning.  I recently spoke with a man that worked with Mr. Duntov during the development and testing of the Fuel Injection System for the 57 Corvette.  He was a very interesting person to talk to.

  Anyway, I hope you can help with my questions.  I thank you in advance for any info you can send.

  Thanks,

  Wayne    

Hi;  Sounds like a great car.  Your carpet screws are chrome plated ( not nickel or stainless) and are on the right side of the car toward the transmission about 1 to 1&1/2 inches in on the carpet and about the same from the top of the carpet and the bottom bend where it starts up. ( there is no exact spot.) on the left side only one is at the top about the same distance behind the go fast pedal.
`      The capacitor's are #7270568 (large yellow wax unit) attached at the ammeter gauge lead under the dash.  This is only on radio equipped cars.  A radio interference suppression one is located at the generator (#1911995) attaches to the generator terminal with the gray brown wire.  At the voltage regulator (#19427452) attaches to the lower terminal,  both of these have a metal exterior and about 1&1/4 inches long and about 5/8 of a inch in diameter.
       Good luck and have fun.  Thanks Larry 

**********
I have a 61 with a t-10 and am replacing the rubber transmission mount.  The Service Manual states to make sure the shims are replaced to ensure proper driveshaft alignment.  My car has no shims.  Is there a way to verify if the shims are required? 
Great tech website, BTW.
 
Ray 
From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC: 

Hi:  The shims ( if present ) are between the crossmember and the frame.  They were installed on some of the Corvettes to align the drive shaft.   They are not required but make sure they were not present when you removed the cross member.
 
Good Luck  Thanks Larry

**********

I have a 1960 Corvette. The tail lights stopped working (both sides).

Stop lights and turn signals ok. It would be quite a coincidene for

both bulbs to fail at the sale time. Are the tail lights on a separate fuse?
Thank You,
 From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi; All of the Rear Lights are on the same fuse.

You will need a simple ohm and volt unit to check this out. However

pull the rear

bulbs out and use some fine sand paper to clean both the bulb and the inside of the

housing. Make sure they are tight. Inspect the bulbs while they are out.

1. Steps. Check Ground ( not only on the back of the housing but inside the housing)

2. Check and see if you have power to the back of the bulb ( check with park lights on)

3. If the above checks out you may have a broken wire. ( first look in the trunk)

The wire that is broken may not be visible from the outside.

4. The wires go to the back on the drivers side. Remove the sill plate and check.

Somewhere in the above you will find the problem.

Good Luck Thanks Larry


**********

> Hello, I wish to change the carrier assembly gasket on a 1958

> Corvette due to a slow oil leak. I have disconnected the drive shaft

> and removed the nuts from the 10 bolts holding the carrier assembly,

> The assembly refuses to move from the differential. I am guessing that

> an axle or both axles will need to be removed. Any assistance that you

> can provide will be appreciated. Thank you.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi; Here are the steps to remove the Axles.

1. Take off both rear wheels and the brake drum

2. Install a clamp ( to hold in the wheel cylinder and brake shoes)

Remove the differential housing cover ( after draining the housing)

3. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock screw, ( in the housing) and the differential pinion

shaft, axle shaft spacer and differential pinions. ( these are in the center of the housing by the spider gears)

4. Push axle shafts in toward the center of the axle and remove the "C" washers from inner

ends of the axle shafts. ( you do not need to completely remove them.)

5. Pull the axles out

A couple of Notes

( Do not damage any part of the interior gears as then they will need replacing)

( If you have any oil evidence in the breaks you need to replace the outer bearings

and seals. You will need a bearing puller. Again do not damage any the internal Parts )

Good luck, Thanks Larry


**********

>I have a question about my 1962 Corvette. I recently acquired it from my

>uncle and all the numbers match according to the Black Book. I believe

>the car has been painted. My problem is I cannot find a body plate or any

>info on the original colors. It is currently white with black interior,

>but I am not sure it is the original color. The serial # is 20867S113884.

>Any info I really would appreciate.

> Thanks,

> Randy Mayfield
From: Noland Adams, founding president of SACC:

Randy,

You need to buy the Restoration Book I wrote on 1953 to 1962 Corvettes. It

costs about $80, but I sell it for $70.00 plus $4.00 shipping. Ok, no more

commercials.

Just after the start of 1958 Corvette production, the St. Louis Corvette

assembly plant started helping the painter by writing the exterior body

color in the trunk. They used a lumber crayon (usually green) to write the

color name on the vertical front trunk panel. In order to see this, you'll

have to remove the vertical cardboard panel, which will reveal a thin coat

of paint. To find the paint name, use the edge of a quarter under and beside

the right hand trunk lid hinge and tower. The paint is thin over the lumber

crayon, and it will flake off to show the body color. This procedure was

used on 1958 to 1960 Corvettes. Ivory means white, and Turq. is turquoise,

but red, black, and blue color names are obvious.

IN 1961 the placement of the color name changed to the passenger side seat

back. This was also used on the 1962 models. You'll have to remove the

passenger's seat, which is bolted in place. Then look at the seat back panel

which was behind the seat. Instead of being horizontal, it tilts back like

the seat back itself. The St. Louis workers opened the passenger's door and

stood outside the car while they wrote the color name in large letters on

the seat back panel. Again, a thin coat of paint covers the color name on

the panel. The edge of a quarter will locate the lumber crayon under the

paint. Just keep scraping until you find the entire name. If your car has a

hardtop, you might find "HT" there as well. Again, Ivory means white, MAR

means maroon, Fawn means fawn Beige, Etc.

If it was white, you'll find "Ivory" under the paint. The interior color was

not given- You'll have to look at the colored area in the interior. The

factory painted several small areas so that raw fiberglass could not be seen

around the seats.

For more information about our club, check out the Solid Axle Corvette Club

at http//www.solidaxle.org. This is a 1953 to 1962 group of owners who enjoy

their Corvettes and share technical information.

Enjoy your '62!

Cheers,

Noland Adams

**********

Hi. I just purchased a 'driver' quality 1960 vette after long years of wishing I hadn't sold my '59 in '71. I'm not unique in that. My intention is to bring it back to as close to original as I can. I will need to look for the right drive train as everything has been changed. I'm hoping you can help me establish the build date from the Vin number. It ends in 109156 which must be near the end of production for that year. That will help me to know what to look for. One of your answers to a similar question has already been helpful in determining that the tach red line suggests it was a 270 or 290 FI.
Is the location of the crossed flag insignia on the sides a further clue as to FI or not? In other words, did the factory center the flag emblem when mounted alone and somewhat lower when centered together with the FI script above it?
 

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Your 1959 Corvette serial number ending in 109156 was assembled on Tuesday, July 21, 1959. The engine assembly date (engine number) would be two to five weeks earlier, and the block casting date would be two to three weeks earlier than the engine assembly date. These are general time frames, with most of the dated parts following this pattern. Accessory subassemblies like starter, generator, distributor, radiator, and relays will precede the July 21st assembly date by two weeks to four months. These subassemblies are shown in the Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM).
 
BTW, the last '59, serial number 109670, was assembled on Friday, August 10, 1959.
 
Hope this helps,
 
Noland Adams


**********

am going nut's,trying to find out the shifter ball thread size,for my 1971 corvette 4 speed.can you help!!!!.i want to buy a white shifter knob,but do not know for sure what size it is.my guess,is 1/2,or 9/16.
 
                                                                           thanks     dennis
 From: Larry Richter, SACC Founding Treasurer: Hi  The size is 9/16 - 18 ( if it has the stock unit)  Thanks Larry

 

 

 

**********

Before I start chasing my tail and replace every piece of my brake system, maybe someone out there has experienced the same problem? I have a '61 that every part is fairly new, and  I have a '54 that I just purchased that has'nt been touched in years, both are doing the same thing, brakes work ok when cold, as soon as they warm up, no brakes, I have a full pedal, but it's like pushing on the floorboards, it's hard as a rock, what's up? I just can't think of one particular thing that would cause this. Thanks for the help, Paul Monaco

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC

Hi;  This could be several problems.  Here are the most common
1-  Check the adjustment of the brakes including the correct setting for the adjusting Screw ( bottom) and
      the adjusting spring.
2.  Very common problem.  The shoes are either incorrect or on backwards.  The front shoe( primary)
      has about 2 inches more material then the rear.  The front shoe (primary) moves downward and the
      back one moves upward until the upper end butts against the anchor pin.  Check this with the drum
      off.
3.  The shoes float free in the brake, check this as they may be against something when the heat builds up.
4.  Along with the above is heat causing the wheel cylinder to not work.  Do you have any trapped air in the
     line?  
     Good luck  Thanks Larry     

**********

Hey guys,

I was wondering if one of the gurus has an explanation and or a picture showing what and where the date code stamped into a 62 radiator should be. According to the literature I’ve read, from the C62 date code on, the code was stamped on the top of the radiator and the aluminum tag that formerly had the date code stamped into it was stuck on instead of screwed. I have a radiator that has the stuck on Harrison tag with no date code, the sawcut on the top of the radiator, but can’t see a date code stamped into the top in the format month/year anywhere??????? Picture attached

From; Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi;  Thanks for the pictures they helped a lot. 
A new aluminum foil Harrison tag began about February 62 ( serial number range 5,000 to 9,000 plus or minus. This foil was stuck to the upper right top of the radiator.  These radiator's had part number (3150916) stamped directly into the top of the radiator slightly to the left of center mount.  The only answer I have for the 64 ( it should be the date) is it was made in 1964, but I do not have a firm answer for that, unless they found a replacement radiator in 64 or later and put it in.  
You have one of these foil, direct stamped units.  Enjoy  and Thanks Larry


**********

I have a 1957 corvette (3889)  with a 2 speed powerglide transmission.......with no transmission fluid dipstick.  I have been looking for a number a years now with no success.  I am now considering having  one fabricated  ( unless you know where I might find one....)at a metal shop and was wondering if you could give me any information with respect to
length, width, cap size and color, etc.  Anything you can tell me would be useful.

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  

Hi,

I am in the same boat with you. I have a '57 powerglide in my '58. I too am missing the dipstick. I have looked for many years myself. I put a '58 dipstick in 20+ years ago a hope for the best. At lease it keeps the oil in and dirt out.



**********
When ordering a new interior for my Inca Silver 58 I was told Charcoal is the correct color for 58 interiors. In Noland Adams Restoration and Technical Guide Vol.1 under 58 corvette color combinations, he says the second series color combination chart deletes Charcoal and adds Black as interior and exterior colors. I just want to make sure this is correct so that I don’t install the wrong color interior.

Thanks
Mike

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Mike,
 
I have the original color charts from the Corvette assembly plant in St. Louis. Charcoal started out as one of the basic colors at the beginning of 1958 Corvette production. Late in the production year Charcoal was changed to black. No reason was ever given, and the exact point of changeover is unknown. In order to have a black interior, your '58 would have to be built in the last 1 1/2 to 3 months of production. I would look at the overspray beside the seats and determine if it is charcoal or black. If you determine it was originally black, go back to the interior vendor. I assume that you are dealing with either Corvette America or Al Knock in Texas. If they need convincing, have Doug Svoboda for Corvette America or Al Knock call me at home at 530) 626-3232 (Pacific time). They both know me, and if you are sure you need black I can convince them. After all, we do want it done right!
 
Good Luck,
 
Noland Adams

**********

Dear Sirs,

 

I have a l962 Corvette, which I just recently took to a Corvette Specialty shop to have a new wiring harness installed.  Before I took it, I noticed when I applied the brakes the gas gauge needle would go either to full or empty depending on how much gas the gauge showed.  Thinking that putting a new harness in the car would take care of the situation, but it didn’t.  They told me that they had contacted the place where they get their wiring harness from and were told that was a problem with some of the ‘62’s and there was no answer, no fix to it.  Further, that some did - some didn’t, and that General Motors couldn’t take care of the problem either.  Do you know of a solution to this problem, or is this the way it will remain? 

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President: You have a ground problem. Most likely in one of the tail lights. Run an extra wire from the tail light(s) housing to a good ground. If this helps, hide your new ground wire and you are good to go. What is happening is the ground is back feeding through your gauge.

Also, Noland Adams has a tip..



From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

This is a common problem with 1958 to 1962 Corvettes. Behind the instrument panel there is a single ground wire, which becomes overloaded when more than one device is turned on (brakes, turn signals, radio, Etc.). It is a simple matter of the ground wire becoming overloaded and giving a false gas tank level reading. Install an extra ground wire behind the instrument panel up out of sight. Use a piece of 14 or 12 gauge wire to make sure that you eliminate the problem. No one will ever see it and your gas gauge will show your true gas tank level.

 

**********
Can you tell me the differences in the distributor drive tach vs. the generator drive tach?  I have a 61 tach but I cannot tell if it will work on my 62 corvette.  It came out of a 61 but I don't know if it was early or late.  Would a generator type drive work on a distributor drive?   Is there a difference in appearance?    Mike

From: Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Mike,
 
The 1961 and 1962 tachometers appear identical, but they are not. Between the generator and distributor drives, one turns twice as fast as the other. Right now, I can't remember which is which. As I recall, there is a calibration process where the strength of the magnet in the tachometer head is varied to match the speed of the drive unit. Call a speedometer shop that is familiar with Corvettes and they can give you the correct info.
 
Good luck,
 
Noland Adams

**********
Need your help solving an issue with my 1960 Corvette.  Recently purchased my "dream car" and a couple of months ago and all has been fine as I've taken it out for the round about town cruise.  Today decided to take it out on the interstate and get it up to a highway speed (around 70 mph).  When I got the car up to around 70, it started feeling like it was fishtailing around.  The feeling was either like the axle was shifting around or a tire was rolling off the rims.  Checked the tires and all looks OK there.  Crawled under the car and the rear axle looks fine but did notice a couple of things:
1.  Noticed a nylon strap on the left side (just hanging not touching the axle and on the right side the strap is missing.  I can see where the straps had touched the axle in the past so not sure if this could be the problem.
2.  Measured the distance from the center of the tires on the drivers side (101.5 inch) and Passenger side (102 inches).  Not sure if a 1/2 difference is OK.

Do you have any suggestions or thoughts as to what might be going on?

Thanks,
Dan

From Larry Richter, founding treasurer of SACC:

Hi;  You could have several problems.  The One half inch is material on the car.. It could be anything from a bent rear spring, bend axle housing, rear spring bushings gone or wore out to a bent tire rim, and on and on.  You may even have front suspension problems.  I would suggest that you take the car to a good four wheel alignment shop that has the knowledge or the measurements for the car.  They should be able to either tell you what is wrong or be able to fix the problem.  Do not let them just start to change the parts until it goes away, it needs to be fixed.  Thanks Larry

 

**********
Note to Robert Round - you need to take the lock off your email so I can open it. Also, please put 'SACCTECH' as the subject.  Thanks...Doc

**********
Application form - Question on Solid Axel #1 and #2 do you mean the vin # of the corvette?

From Noland Adams, Founding President of SACC:  

Neil,
 
Yes, we're assuming that you may have more than one solid axle Corvette, that's why we have #1 and #2. About the term serial number or Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), the correct term for 1953 to 1969 Corvettes was the serial number. In 1970 GM ( and the other auto manufacturers) used a standard alphanumeric identification number called a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Although the term serial number is technically correct for a solid axle Corvette, most folks do like you did- they use the term VIN for all years. So, use the term you want, we're talking about the identification number for a specific vehicle.
 
Thanks for asking,
 
Noland Adams


**********

I need help to solve a problem with my '58 Vette windshield.  When I connect the convertible top, the

top of the windshield frame pulls up enough that the top of the glass starts to show.  The

windshield was professionally  installed.  I believe the frame structure is

not broken.  Also, is there such a thing as an aftermarket rubber molding

that would cover the glass separation?

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Both of your windshield posts are broken at the dog leg. You are not going to like to hear this. The only way to fix this is to remove your windshield, no easy task. Check the GM service manual for removal. Send the pot metal post to Corvette Central in Sawyer, MI. They will attach a replacement plate to bottom of the post and make it better than new. This is a common problem caused by two items. (1) The pull of a soft for 50 years and (2) glass installers prying the glass frame apart just enough to slide a replacement windshield into to frame. Pot metal will only flex so many times before breaking

From: Larry Richter, founding treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  What happened is that the top frame was not fit to the car before the canvas was installed.  This is my suggestion.  First put the top down and make sure the windshield is back in the rubber.  You may need to pull the windshield off the car to get this correct. " ouch".  Then take remove the canvas off the top frame and fit the frame to the top, including the door glass and windshield.   It should snap down front and back and the door glass should fit to the top.  The top frame needs to be straight on the top of the window with the rubber installed.  The adjustments are behind the seats for the top frame. Make sure it fits in all areas every time as the raise and lower the frame. This includes the windshield and the back lid. Then ( made need to get a new canvas top)( "ouch") and attach it to the frame.  You may want a professional to install the canvas.  There is no quick fix.  Thanks Larry

**********

 I am writing at the request of my husband, Richard Howell who is a member of SACC.  We have a 2007 Supplement to the Road Assistance Directory and would like to know if there is any way we could obtain an updated version of this information. On Sept. 15th we are heading out in our 1964 Corvette for the New England states for 8 days.  The fact that we are taking a 45 year old car that distance is a slight gamble but something we always wanted to do in the '54 that we own but now that it is a "trailer queen" as I have lovingly titled it we will be doing it via the 10 year newer version.  Our main stops will be Vermont for Hemmings Motor News, Boston area, Plymouth, and on to Cape Cod & maybe Block Island.  We would feel much better if we knew their were SACC members along the way that if necessary we could call and get suggestions if the need arises (either for repairs or suggestions of places not to miss.) 
 
Thank you for any help you could give us.

From Ken Amrick, Editor of On Solid Ground:  
The Road Assistance Directory is now a part of the Roster.  The 2009 "Roster and Road Assistance Directory was distributed along with the Summer issue of the magazine.
After each member's phone numbers there is a column entitled "Road Assistance" If that member is participating, there is a "Y" in the column for YES.  

 

 

 

 

**********
Hi,

I live in Merrick, New York. I have a 1960 Corvette and like to have the steering gear box rebuilt. Do you know of anyone who does this type work so I know its done correctly.

 From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC:

Hi:  If you call the Corvette Stop at 1-800-924-2493 they can help you.  Ask for Drew and tell them I referred you to him.  He does a super job.  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

How do you replace the fuel line that runs from the tank to the fuel pump on a 1959 Corvette? I have been told the engine must be removed for access.

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC

Hi:  You do not need to remove the engine to replace the fuel line.  My first question is why do you need to replace the line?  If you have rust in the carburetor you must find where the rust is coming from first, generally this is the fuel tank.  However there may be other problems.  Check the fuel neck ( from the cap to the tank) I have seen a lot of rust in this area, or it may be the fuel pump in and of its self.
    Assuming the short line from the tank to the long line is good.  There is a connection to the long line on the right side just above the sway bar mounting. ( you will need to drain the tank at this point).  The long line generally goes on the outside of the frame to another connection about 3 inches from the fuel pump. There are several clips holding the line to the frame.  It is simpler to remove the right front tire and possibly some other items to have access.  You can bend the long line, but be careful not to kink the  line. This can be disconnected at this point.  The forward short flex line goes into the fuel pump.  When it is apart replace this flex line and the fittings.  Be very careful because these brass fittings are easily damaged.  I will admit that space is very tight but with the correct tools it is not a hard project.
    Corvette Central has the parts in the 53-62 Book   800-345-4122   Good luck and let me know if you have other questions.   Thanks Larry

**********

Good Morning,  You may not be the one to direct this question to but if not would you please pass it on to the proper person?
 
We are members of Solid Axle Corvette Club and have been for many years.  We are planning a trip to the New England States beginning Sept. 15th and would feel a bit more comfortable knowing we have a current listing of the Road Assistance Directory.  The one we have is 2006 with a 2007 Supplement.  Could you please tell us how we can obtain this information or even if you can copy, paste, and send via e-mail the portion containing information on Pennsylvania, New York, Vermont, Massachusetts, and Rhode Island. 
 
We have always wanted to take a Corvette on a long trip like this and since the 54 is a fresh frame off restoration we have decided to take the 64.  If you would ask any of our friends they would all tell you we are nuts for taking a 45 year old car on a trip like this but WHAT DO THEY KNOW?????   In examining our information we realized that things certainly do change in three short years looking at the information on members that were personal friends of ours, let alone everyone else.  This rapid change in this length of time also gave us both a loud message that we should do this now because you never know what lies ahead. 
 
Thank you in advance for any help you can give us. 

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  If you are a current member of SACC you should have received one with the second mailing of the year.( for the year 2009)  You can contact the editor Ken Amrick at vette5362@mail.com   Thanks and have a good trip.  Larry
 

 

**********

Hi just wondering if you have any links to a demo tape etc. of a installation and adjustments of a soft top frame on a 59 vette
Kind regards Lou

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi;  Al Knoch at 800-880-8080 or e-mail at alknoch@flash.net  has them.  The most important item is you must have the frame fitted and adjusted to the car in all areas before installing the cover.  Good Luck Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

Hello:  I have a stock 1962 corvette fuelly. I am in the process of detailing the chassis.  Was it common for the 1962 to have visible wax pencil shim marks on the chassis? The Quanta detailing kit gives me the pencil, but no indication as to the location of the marks. I've seen mid-years with shim marks, but not solid axles. Please advise.  Thanks.  JC

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  I do not believe there were any shim marks on the Solid Axle cars.  I have never seen any on the original cars.  The machine to measure the height of the frame, came in for the 63 and up cars. They used two different colors to indicate the shims required.  White generally means one and red or orange generally means 5.  Let me know if you find any real evidence of original solid axle cars  with shim marks.  Thanks Larry


**********

Hi. I just purchased a 'driver' quality 1960 vette after long years of

> wishing I hadn't sold my '59 in '71. I'm not unique in that. My

> intention is to bring it back to as close to original as I can. I will

> need to look for the right drive train as everything has been changed.

> I'm hoping you can help me establish the build date from the Vin

> number. It ends in 109156 which must be near the end of production for

> that year. That will help me to know what to look for. One of your

> answers to a similar question has already been helpful in determining

> that the tach red line suggests it was a 270 or 290 FI. Is the

> location of the crossed flag insignia on the sides a further clue as

> to FI or not? In other words, did the factory center the flag emblem

> when mounted alone and somewhat lower when centered together with the

> FI script above it?

 

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC: 

Hi: Great find and when you are finished enjoy the car.

First you need to purchase 3 books

Noland Adams Vol 1 ( 53 to 62)

The 1960 Assembly Manual

NCRS Judging manual for 58-60

These three will answer a lot of questions and solve a lot of problems for

you.

On your questions. You car was built the first working day of July 1960.

What that means is that all the parts should be dated 6 months or less

before the assembly date. Generally the car parts will be dated about one to

two months (April 15 to June 15 ) before assembly.

As to what was the original horse power or was it a fuel unit. The one spot

that should be still original is the firewall. Look directly behind the

distributor and if there is a hole about 2.5 inches wide and about 1 inch

high it was a fuel unit. All fuel injection cars had a distributor tack

drive and all carb units had the drive on the back of the generator. You

may find a bracket or holes on the drivers side ( left ) fender about half

way back that held the air cleaner for the fuel unit. If no evidence either

place is was a carb car.

On the fenders unless it has the original fenders and many do not, it will

not tell you anything. The injection script is located about 4 and 1/4

inches forward of the door opening. Oh, yes someone may have changed the

tack.

Good Luck and let us know and questions or problems you have. Thanks Larry Yes you can join SACC. and the club welcomes you.

 

**********

Hi, my name  is Joseph Hydell.I was refered to Solid Axle and NCRS by NCOA. I would very much appreciate help with following.In  1971 i purchased a 1961 corvette,in Calif. About5 yrs ago I decided to restore the car,stripped the car totally,ever screw out,all paint off.It was an enormous undertaking as I know nothing about cars.I am proud to say  I did a * job.My problem is .Last year my home burned down.I had to sell the car.I sold it to a local police officer,price somewhat negotiable,and verbal,To a point,He stopped paying me short of $2000.Friday is small claims court.His  issue,I'm sure will be stress cracks,on front end,Something he was aware of ,shown on my video tape.However without some refrence,to the fact that this was  common with61,62 vettes,As this is his town,I don't have a chance.Any leeds,I appreciate greatly.One note,I was sure to give him Noland Adams guide.Very very little survived the fire That book did,and so did ELVIS' autograph.   THANK YOU, very much,  Joe

From Brad Bean, SACC VP: 
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Without getting into a "he said, no he said" discussion as to whether he was made aware of the stress cracks prior to the purchase... vertical creases on the front fenders, centered above the wheel wells (of varing severity) are fairly common on the 1958 through 1962 body style, especially '58 - '60.

These creases often develop due to the weight of the front end and the front end being attached to the frame. As the top of the fender is horizontal, it has some ability to flex as the car vibrates and bounces. However, at the smallest point where the fender curves downward and becomes vertical, it will often bow outward and over time develop a crease (and later a crack) in the fiberglass.

Unfortunately, the proper solution is often to replace the fender or entire front clip.

To grind out the fiberglass and fill it in, never looks right on the fender surface, and (under the same stress that created the problem to begin with) the repaired areas will ultimately crack where the repaired areas attach to the fender. Also, you can't hide the reinforced repairs on the underside from NCRS judging or during the re-sale process.

Brad

**********

I am  having a problem getting my horns to work on my 61. I have replaced all the wiring  and everything else works. I can make the horns work when jumping  the red and blace wires at the horn relay but when I try the horn button nothing. I have tried another relay with the same result. Tha tan wire is connected at the column.   I am lost. i simply do not know how the horn circuit works. Any way to test the tan wire?

From: Noland Adams, founding President of
SACC:  

Pat,
 
It's been a long time since I've worked on the horn relay, but I think I can explain the principle. First of all, it takes a lot of watts (voltage times amperage) to get the horns to produce its loud noise(s). A heavy duty horn relay is added to the circuit to handle the power load required by the horn(s). In order to get the relay to pull in and send power to the horns, a wire runs from the rerlay through the column, ending at the horn button. This wire is always "hot", so when you push the horn button, you are grounding the wire, which pulls in the relay, and the horns produce noise. You should have power on the wire in the column at all times. If this wire shorts out- maybe while turning a corner- you will go batty trying the silence those blaring horns.
 
Try installing a jumper on the relay where the tan wire is connected. By grounding this wire, the horns should sound off. Then check the wire up through the column to the horn button. Somewhere there's an open circuit like a broken wire or maybe a bad relay.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Good Luck,
 
Noland Adams

**********

I have a 1960 vette and the key will

> not open the trunk, it

> used to open ok but now the key just turns and the trunk

> will not open. How do I

> get it open to repair it ???
   John

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  You will not like what I am about to tell you. You will need to break the plastic emblem, then try not to damage the aluminum backing any more that you have too, but you just as well beat it to death as well. Then you can use this round hole to reach the latch and open your trunk. Then you can repair the problem of the key no longer working to release the trunk latch. Do save the chrome ring however.
From; Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:  

Hi:  Just break out the large trunk emblem and reach in with a stiff wire or something that will grab the latch to move it.  You may need to feel around to see what is broken.  Would suggest that you buy the new part that failed and a new trunk emblem. Install the new lock first to make sure it works correctly ( several times ) then install the new trunk emblem.  Good luck  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

Hello,

I have a 54 corvette and am attempting to remove the steering box and steering shaft. I have removed all the proper bolts as well as the firewall grommet and dash supports but the shaft cannot clear the side wall of the engine compartment. My question is does the shaft need to be separated from the steering box first before removal, or is there a trick to remove them as one piece?  

Thanks,

Mitch

 

From: Noland Adams, President Emeritus, SACC:  

The 1953 to 1955 Corvette steering column and the steering box containing the gears were installed as a unit in the body at the Corvette assembly plant (Flint or St Louis). Then the body was lowered onto the chassis and along with the steering column and box, and they were bolted in place.
 
After all of these years, it's no surprise that the steering box needs rebuilding. It will probably need a bearing set, and perhaps new gears. Removing the steering column is a difficult job, indeed. Some owners have given up and removed the body from the chassis. Besides providing easy access to the steering box and column, there are many other items that can be easily reached at the same time, including body repairs and body mount repairs.
 
Another method is to cut the inner fender panel, and repair it after the rebuilt steering column and box are reinstalled. None of this is quick and easy.
 
The steering box and column is easier to remove/replace on 1956 and 1957 Corvettes, because more space was provided. 1958 and later Corvettes have even more space, so their steering parts are fairly easy to remove/replace.
 
Good luck with your 1954 Corvette repairs!
 
Cheers,
 
Noland Adams

From Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  The box and shaft are one item. They have to be removed as a whole. Ideally you need to remove the body to get the steering shaft and box off of an early Corvette. But you can remove parts of the front axle and spring and related parts and after much time and work you can pull the steering box down and out with the Corvette on a lift. Good luck with you project.

From: Larry Richter, Past Treasurer, SACC:  

Hi:  You need to remove the steering wheel and the hub ( with the turn signal switch ).(Careful of the wires to the horn and turn signal switch)( and remove the plate around the column) with the car up in the air, you should be able to slide it out the bottom of the car. If you cannot get it up in the air you will need to take part of the left suspension or steering gear loose.  If you do mark the shims ( if any so it can be reinstalled later. ) You will need to turn it to clear the steering gear under the car.  Any questions let me know.   Thanks Larry

 

**********

Hello,
 
I have been the proud owner of E54S001601 for the past 5 years.  I purchased the car from a gentleman who passed away from Sandpoint Idaho who had owned the car for over 30 years.  He had only put 100 documented miles on the car driving it on to his trailer and off while having it stored in the Talyor/Parker GM dealership over the past 30 years. 
 
I am starting an NCRS restoration and have found black paint under the 3 or so coats of Polo White which I was hand stripping.  I have taken picture of it but wanted to know what kind of other documentation is needed or can I find out more information on black 54's that were produced by GM???Since only 5 or 7 black 54's are know to be produced. E54S001601 is the first 600th corvette made in 54 and is one of the first 1,000 made for corvettes.....  I have contacted DMV in Washington State and they do not hold any records past 15 years and do not even have microfish to check old records on historic cars....
 
Any information would be greatly appreciated of you could lead me to the right person or persons who may know more about 1954 corvettes.  I am SACC member 2929.
 
 
Sincerely,
 
mark

 

Hi:  Black was not used after March 5, 1954.   The start of Production for the 54 was Dec 28, 1953 and there are generally no production records available for the 54.  However, NCRS has documentation that S.N. 2628 was produced on May 18 of 54.  If you average this out it is about 350 + or - per month so you car was built ( on the average of the first 1628 cars) toward the end of February of 54.  Therefore, it could be an original black car.  Look in all the little hidden places for evidence of over spray on the raw fiberglass.  You should document this in very good pictures for future reference.   It should have a red interior ( same as the white cars).  You can also contact Noland Adams regarding additional information on these early cars.   P.S.  I live 50 miles North of Portland so you can contact me if you wish.  Thanks Larry

**********

Sirs,
I am in the process of changing the weatherstripping around the windshield in my 1960 Corvette. I started the WS at the bottom of the glass and progressed to the sides and around the corners of the glass. It looks a bit short of fitting around the rest of the glass! I really don't want to pull and stretch the WS too much to fit the windshield! (I don't want to break this original windshield!!). Should I let this WS soak in the sun for awhile or is there something else important that I am missing in my installation process? Please get back ASAP as the cruise season is short enough here in the East!!
Thanks,
George Full

From: Larry Richter, Past Treasurer, SACC:
Hi: The windshield rubber is made to fit very tight.  I use hand cleaner (GOOP) so it slides around the glass. Have a helper and put a small amount in the channel of the rubber and put the bottom on first and around the corners.  Make sure that it is pulled tight. then up both sides to the top and it should fit.  Be very careful that you do not put excess pressure on the glass in ways that will bend the glass as it will break.  I do not put any sealant from the glass to the rubber as the windshield will work a little as you drive the car. Make sure that you adjust the windshield to the top before the reassemble the dash.  Thanks Larry

 

**********

Hello,
I am having trouble with my 59 Corvette Powerglide overheating.  In everything I have read I see no reference to any type of tranny cooler?  I do see in 63 they have one, but not for the early models?  Any help?  Do I need to go to an aftermarket of some type?
Thankyou,
Scott Gross

From: Noland Adams, Founding President:

Scott,
 
The first Corvette Powerglide transmission cooler was installed by the St. Louis factory in mid-1963 production. First, you stated that you're having trouble with your "'59 Corvette Powerglide overheating". Then you asked about a transmission cooler. My first question to you: is the transmission overheating or is the radiator/cooling system overheating? The 1959 Corvette is fairly lightweight car with a 283 cid engine, and normally does not need a transmission cooler.
 
So, do you have a larger engine that may put more strain on the Powerglide transmission? Is your problem with the radiator/coolant overheating? There are many possible causes for coolant overheating- a plugged radiator, a bad thermostat, bad hoses, timing out of adjustment, Etc. Start by using a 50 percent mix of Prestone anti-freeze and distilled or deionized water. Now, is it really overheating, or are you just getting a high coolant temperature reading? It could be your dash instrument's temperature reading.
 
There are so many variables here, but perhaps we can eliminate the obvious potential problems, and come up with a solution.
 
Thanks for asking,
 
Noland Adams

**********
Sirs,
> I own a 1960 red Corvette that I've had for 25 years. The windshield weather
> stripping is starting to separate from the glass. I am very tempted to play
> with this issue but something tells me I better ask, first! Is it worth
> tackling on my own?
> George Full

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:
This is something you can do yourself.  But how much time and how nimble are you?  You will need to pull the dash loose at the door post to access two 1/2 nuts.  Then about every 6 inches all along the front or bottom of the windshield frame are small nuts that will need to be removed.  These are accessed from under the dash on the inside of the Corvette.  If the pot metal parts of the windshield post are cracked at the bottom when you remove the assembly, have them fixed as well.


**********

Gentlemen,

> I own a 1958 that my dad bought in 1960 and gave to me in 1970, after
> plenty abuse and neglect I have been trying to bring it> back to > correct as possible. I would be interested to know the build date (June 13th is my guess) of the car and confirm correct dates for the components since most were out of the vehicle at one time or another. Car is #7946: Engine stamp F603CQ, E 21 8 Heads E 16 8  Dist 8-E-23  Intake D-25-8  Thanks

>Steve

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President: 
Your 1958 would have been assembled on June 17 mid day of production.

 


 

**********

Dear Sirs:

 

Here’s a good one.  I have a ’58 Corvette and there is a minimum ½ inch gap along the left side of the trunk lid, along the rear wheel.  The trunk lid does not go all the way down to meet the body near the rear wheel area of the body, on both side of the car.  The right side is at lease ¼ gap above the body.

I tried to use shim, but the shims cannot make that much of an adjustment.

A friend told me what needs to be done is must use something to bend the trunk lid down on the edges that don’t go down far enough to meet the body, and when the trunk lid cracks just repair the cracks.

  Maybe there’s another ’58 trunk lid for sale?  Trading up to another ’58 car is too expensive for me in Hawaii.  Help!

  Aloha,
Eric

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice-President:

The car has apparently been damaged in an accident and not repaired properly. The only real solution is to take the car to a reputable restoration/auto body shop and have them make the appropriate repairs. However, this will not be inexpensive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

**********

I have a 57 with a state vin number.  Where is the vin on the frame?

From: Larry Richter, founding Treasurer of 
SACC: 

Hi:  The vin number is stamped on the left side (driver).  As you sit in the car it is under your feet.  It could be forward or back about a foot, and on either side of the top of the frame.  If the frame is in really good condition you should be able to take a wire brush and clean the top of the frame, between the body and the frame, and find the number ( or part of the number). with a mirror.  If the frame has some rust ( most did) it is gone.  You could pull the body and give it a close look and perhaps have some of the number.  These were stamped for control numbers and some were very lightly hit.  Good luck  Thanks Larry

 

 

From: Noland Adams, President Emeritus, SACC: 

Dear David
 
Re: 1957 serial number on frame.
 
Before 1970 the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) was called the Serial Number, so that's what I call it. The number is stamped on top of the frame's left hand side rail. If the body is off of the frame, the number is located on the left (driver's side) of the center of the frame's main X member. With the driver seated in the car, the number on the frame is just a bit to the left of his or her hip pocket. With the body installed, there is a small gap between the body and the frame. By using wedges, you can "bend" the fiberglass and increase the gap. Then use sandpaper or a small brush to clean the frame where the number is located. The numbers are deeply impressed in the top of the side rail; perhaps it helps to locate this low spot. Then, using a dental mirror, read them- but they'll be backwards.
 
Once an experienced NCRS judge read the serial number on my frame incorrectly. I was almost penalized for having a replacement frame. So read the frame's serial number carefully.
 
If you need a serial number plate replacement, perhaps I can help. Contact me at nolandadams@internet49.com.
 
Good Luck!
 
-Noland Adams

 

**********

1959 Corvette.

 

Is it allowed for a non member of your club to ask you a technical question?

 

I need to remove the power glide transmission because of an oil leak

Can I remove the transmission without pulling the engine?

 

Regards

 

Henninng Sorensen

Denmark

 

From Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  You can remove it either way.  I prefer to take the engine out with the trans attached.  You will need to have the correct tools either way.  I would suggest that if you have never done this before and do not have the correct tools ( ie engine hoist, lifts, manuals etc,) you need to pay a professional to do the task.  You could do more dollar damage then you will save.  Have fun and enjoy.  Thanks Larry

 

**********

I just bought a 1960 corvette basket case and I want to find out its history
do you know how I can?
Thanks
Gary

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC

Hi;  The history on old cars is difficult if not impossible to find out, if you do not have the original documentation.  Below are a few ways that may or may not work.  G.M. does not have this information on the cars built in St. Louis. (54 to part of 81)( part of 1981 forward they do have this for cars built in Bowling Green.)
1-  Check in the state where the car was last registered.  They may go back a few owners or they may not.  If the car has not been registered for a while, this may be the end.  They may be able to tell you which state the car came from.
2- Look around the car to see if there is any hidden paper work, repair orders, registrations anything and go from there.
3- Talk to the old ( really old ) time Corvette Owners in the area you purchased the car and perhaps some one will remember the car.
4- Look under the front windshield, in the trunk and under weather striping, to see if you can determine the original color, this may help.
5- Look for any major repair, or modifications in the fiberglass, then check around the long time body shops body shops.
I wish you good luck, and that is what you are going to need.  Thanks and have fun.  Larry

**********

I 've owned this car since 1968,it's a 61 vette, and always had a 62 interio,trim & ect, but titled as a 61 Chevrolet conv. the vin is10867109866 it's roman red/red interior can you help? I want to freshin it up,but don't know whether to make it look like a 61,or62it doesn't have 62 coves, that protrude .Thank you ,hope you can help sincerely John Marshall


From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  There are several differences between the 61 and 62, including the block ( if original) should be casting number 3789935 for a 61 and all 62's have 3782870 casting. All 61's had a silver finish grill, and 62's had a black finish. You can look to the glass ( if original) the letter code is L for 61. It goes on and on. but you have a 61 serial number, in fact more than 1000 from the end of production. Your car was build about the 10th of June 61, and production ended for the 61 the end of July. Look under the seat there may be a black metal tag about 1X4 inches with the seat assembly date. ( hope it is still there). My guess is that some one put a 62 interior in the car back before 68.  It appears to be in fact a 61.  If I can help any more let me know, and enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry


Dear Sirs:
 
I'm running a 1961 with a 4 barrel carburetor and I have a problem keeping engine paint on my intake manifold at the cross-over.
 
The cross-over keeps peeling the paint off due to the heat generated and I'm wondering if I can block off the cross-over to prevent the paint loss.
 
The car is only used in the summer and apart from a slower choke release, are there any other issues that I'll encounter if I proceed with my idea?
 
It's my understanding that the cross-over serves to further atomize the fuel in the carburetor by using the heat and that given it's a summer only car, I shouldn't run in to other issues.
 
I use heat rated engine paint, but the problem persists and I have just finished acid dipping the manifold to clear it of any impurities.
 
I would appreciate your input on this.
 
Many thanks.:

From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi;   Several items or a combination of several items.  (1)  The exhaust heat raiser could be only opening part way. Get the correct new one and install it. (2) Timing of the engine could be off 2 or 3 degrees. (3) You have a valve problem or problems that one or more are not closing completely. Do a compression check and a leak down test to see if do have this problem.  (4) The carburetor may have improper settings. Have a scope test for settings and exhaust gas readings.  (5) most discount store bought paint will not take the heat.  Go to a auto paint store and get very high temp paint.  Make sure the manifold is completely clean before painting and do not put more than two thin coats on. Too much paint may be the problem.  A minor amount will burn off.  Thanks and enjoy the car.  Larry
 

**********

When I touch the brakes on my 62, the gas needle shifts position and returns to its original position once the brake is released.  What do you suggest to alleviate this movement?
 
Best regards,
 
Landry

From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:
Hi;  That is a grounding problem.  One way to fix that is to run a separate wire from the back of the dash (Metal) to a good solid ground.  If the wire is brittle and will not bend easily you may want replace part or all of the wiring in the car.  This is a safety issue at this point.  Look very close at the wire from the brake light switch and see if there are any problems. Thanks and enjoy the car .  Larry

 

**********

Hello.  For years I have been interested in  purchasing a 58 - 62 Corvette.  I don't know much about the mechanicals and  was wondering if you could recommend someone I could retain as a consultant to  assist me in buying a car.  There are lots of nice looking cars on the  internet but they can't all be as nice as they're described.  Thank  you.
 
From Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:
There are companies/individuals who do this for a fee, but they are specific to a locale.  The best way to do this is to first find a car, then find some qualified in that area to look the car over.  They will render an opinion, but usually only to the mechanical and physical condition of the car, not it's correctness or authenticity.

Brad

 

 

 

 

**********

Hi I just bought a 1959 corvette It has a British Columbia assigned vin because when it came to my province in 1983 it had no vin tag how do I find the original vin number or where should I look do I have to remove the body

From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  You probability will need to remove the body.  The vin number is on the top of the frame rail drivers side about the center of the X brace. There is no exact location so look forward and back, side to side. As you are standing on the drivers side looking down ( body removed) you may be able to read it.  Some you can read with a mirror with some wire brushing in the are between the body and frame.   Even if you remove the body it may be rusted beyond identification.  If the car has a frame section in that area it is gone.  Good Luck  Thanks Larry


**********

Hello,

 I have a question on my 1961 corvette 283, all stock 2x4 dual quad car.

What should the volt meter read in the car if the generator is doing

 the job correctly? My car shows zero while running, goes below the

negative number when I run the lights. Battery will go dead if I run with the lights on for

awhile. Checked out system and seems to be working ok, no broken wires,

ordered new regulator, but not sure if this is the issue or not. I

was just looking to find out what my gauge should read in the car.

Regards,

David Seymour

From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi: When the car is sitting with the ignition off the gauge should be inthe center. Ignition on and headlights on it should read about 2 to 4 ampsdischarge. On the starting it should go to 10 to 12 discharge, once the carstarts it should go to 12 to 15 amps charge and then over a 5 to 15 minute

period should be back to near zero. With the car running it should be at 1to 2 amps charge once the battery is recharged. Set it up for 1000 RPM. A lower RPM will cause a discharge at idle and this is normal. Do not set itup for more than 16 amps charge, as it will do damage to your radio. Be aware of the over the counter voltage regulators as some can not be set upcorrectly and others there is no setting on them. You could have severalproblems:

1. Bad Battery

2. Voltage regulator not set up correctly

3. Generator not adjusted correctly ( yes they are adjustable) 4. A short in the wiring ( test this by taking the fuse out one at a time

and see what happens) If you have the original wiring I would suggest you

replace it with new.

The Best place to get all the details is in the 1961 Passenger Car Shop Manual Pages pages 9-2 to 9-12.

If you send me your address I will photo them and mail it to you.

Thanks and have fun Larry

 

**********
HI:
 I've got a 57 Corvette I'm restoring and I'm putting on disc brakes for piece of mind. I've got the front kit and the adapters for the rear that use the 88 Iroc discs. My question is what MANUAL dual master cylinder should I be using to run the four discs. I don't want to have a hard pedal every time I hit the brakes. I have been told that I should forget the four disc brake idea because of not being able to run a power booster and just run the front discs and put a good set of linings on the drums in the rear. Any thoughts on this?
 
  Thanks for your time,
           Brent Fields
From; Larry Richter, founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  The one and most important item is the complete system must be balanced for all 4 wheels.  You cannot buy one part one place and another somewhere else. Generally, you need a 1 inch bore and a master cylinder specific for the four wheel disk brake system.  The proportioning valve must match the master and the brakes.  Call Pedro at 714-771-6569 at ABS Power Brakes. You may need to purchase some parts to make it work correctly.  Note: some of the units require you to drill another hole in the fire wall to lower the pedal rod.  The four wheel disk brake system works great when set up correctly.  Enjoy the car  Thanks Larry 

**********

Do these steering box casting numbers identify an early Corvette unit?

 C1UR 3550 B (main body)

 C1UR 3580     (side flange)
We are building a Nostalgia Gasser and have located an old tube axle adapted to early Corvette spindles......the steering box that came with it is still a mystery.

 Thanks,

Ron

From Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC:

Hi:  I have no idea what you have for a steering box.  After considerable research it appears it is not a early Corvette.  Housing part numbers were 56XXXXX ( a seven number code ) The early group numbers were 6.5XX to 6.9XX.  I will keep looking but it appears it is not even a G.M. ( perhaps after market )  Thanks and enjoy the car.  Larry

**********

I am preparing a 56 Corvette for NCRS judging in 2009.    The last time the car was flight judged by NCRS, the battery had points deducted because it was not a “tar top”  battery.

  Can you direct me to a source  of  NCRS “correct” batteries?

  Thanks,
Don

From: Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer

Yes:  Contact Restoration Battery at 513-574-4481 and ask for a real tar top.  It should come to you dry and you add the acid and water.  The top will be a dull black and sticky ( not a plastic top that some of them have.)  good luck with the 56  Thanks Larry

 

**********

hi
just wondering if you can help me with my 59 vette
I have a sag mark in both front fenders above the wheel and when I look behind the back support bracing seems all original and without any accident damage or previous repairs but in that area it seems like there is like a joint or somethink in the bracing and it seems like the weakest spot, with years of saging etc. the front body mount under the radiator may have dropped a little causing the body to do this Would you think I am on the right track. I have restored the frame/chassis and about to fit body back and repair this area which would be the best way
Cheers Lou 

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC

Hi:  There is really no way to repair the sag over the wheels on the 58-60 Corvettes.  Yes you can build it up, but the glass is all ready weaken.  Primary reason is individuals leaning over and putting weight on the fender for 50 years.  You will never be happy to do it this way.  Two suggestions (1) Call Jerry at 1-800-550-1200 and see if he will make you a section of the fender that you need.  The problem with that is there will always be a cut mark  in the fenders and the repair will always show upon close examination.  This way is cheaper (maybe) than the other way.  (2)  Call Corvette Image at 503-492-0164 and buy all new glass.  They make the glass with the correct bonding strips and feel of the glass.  You may want to consider a complete front end.  Be sure to get the chassis 4 wheel aligned before attaching the body. If you do this make sure the glass man know early Corvettes and the measurements or it will be a mess.  The only way the front body mount can drop with out frame damage is either a crack in the glass or a shim or two have fallen out. Thanks and good luck.  Larry

**********

Is there a differential offset on the 61?
 
Thank You, Ed

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC

Hi:  All the 60-61-62 rear suspension systems are the same.  There is no differential offset on the 61.  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********
Hello- I just retired and am taking on a restoration project on my 59 vette which I have owned for 29 years. I would like to replace the door window liners which I have already purchased. Is there anywhere I can get written instructions on how to do this? do the windows and regulator have to come out? how, etc. appreciate any info. thanks, Dale

From Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC

Hi:  Yes the inter workings of the door need to come out, due to the fact that you cannot get the lower screws ( or rivets if you so choose to put in)  Originally the front edge had Phillips screws and metal retainers in addition to glue on the posts.  This is a good time to grease all of the window gears and door opening parts, plus align the window.  I can send you a three page instructions on this procedure, but if you are going to do a lot or restoration on the car you need three items (1) the Assembly manual for 59  (2)  The Corvette Servicing Guide (3) Noland Adam's Book  " the Complete Corvette Restoration and Technical Guide Vol # 1.  These will tell you most of what you need to know.  Let me know Thanks Larry.

**********

I am currently trying to make a deal on a 1957 and 1961 Corvette. I noticed that the newer 1961 has a linkage that run from the rear axle to the frame on each side (located over top of the rear leaf springs). I didn’t see this on the 1957 but I was wondering what year the linkage started and what it’s purpose is. I suppose it is to control axle wrap or to aid in braking performance but I thought I would ask. Is there any web sites that might show the difference between the frames in greater detail?

 

Terry Simpson

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi: :  All 56-57 Frames are generally the same, except for the transmission mounting, stick to automatic.  The 58-60 Frames are all three slightly different.  Beginning in 59 the traction bar was added (frame to rear axle housing), in 60 the Rear Stabilizer bar was added.  ( lower spring hanger to frame).  The 61-62 frames were changed again due to the rear body mounts, for the new rear body configuration.  The 57 did not have the traction bar or the rear stabilizer bar.  I would suggest that you purchase Noland Adam's "Restoration & Technical Guide- Vol.1"  This give you very good details of the frame and a bunch more data on the early cars.  The main purpose was to stop the rear spring wind up with the higher horsepower cars.  A side note, I have a very strong 59 - 270 hp. that in a full speed shift I bent both top leaves of the rear springs. Thanks and enjoy the car.  Larry  

From Max Brockhouse, SACC President:
This rod is called an anti-roll bar, it was added in 1960 to control rear wheel hop.

**********
hi my name is richie i am looking for specs on rearend i have to centers 1 370 nonposi  1 411 posi i want to change the 370 to a posi both ring gears are 37 teeth pinon one has 9 one has 10 i know i have to keep ring and pinion together i need a step by step and tork specs. thanks richie

From Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  Contact Drew at Corvette Stop 1-800-924-2493  They have all the data.  Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

i need to put fuses in the fuse box of a 1962 327-340 4-speed, but when i am under the dash i can't read the small lettering on the right side of the fuse box....can you tell me the values and order of the new fuses...
 
thanks for your help
 
nearly blind in Cincinnati

From Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer: 

Hi  Your flasher unit should be on the lower left, as you face the fuse block under the dash. On the right side should be 6 fuse blanks the are as follows from bottom to top
      1. instrument and clock lights.                        3 amp
      2. heater                                                      10  "
      3. radio                                                          7 1/2 amp
      4. brake, & tail, interior                                  15 amp
      5.   Should be blank   ( No fuse)
      6. Parking Brake alarm                                  10 amp
 
            All are AGC fuses.  The Head lights have a circuit breaker (15amp) separate.
  On the top side of the flasher are some accessory plugs that could have anything plugged in over the years.
 
A word of caution the above is the original, so be careful that your car has not been haywired over the years, test each one separate to see if it does operate the correct circuit.  If it blows the correct amp fuse then you have a short in that circuit.  Do not put a larger fuse, find the short,  as Corvette's burn really good. Use a plastic fuse puller not a screw driver as you may get metal to metal and blow or burn something up.   Good luck   Thanks Larry                               

**********

I have been slowly restoring a 1960 two top roadster while enjoying the ride in Houston , Texas . I discovered a couple of years ago the rear end was not a 3.70 positrack but a 1957 passenger car unit.  I began the search for a P case unit and purchased one in Califorina, rebuilt and ready to install. Unfortunately I learned the hard way.  From the outset the clutches grabbed when in reverse or when turning causing tire drag. I have tried all the suggestions to remedy the problem, GM fluid, Ford fluid, driving in circles (forward and reverse) for extended periods and most anything else you can think of.  The unit has been out twice in recent months and sent to two different specialty shops in the Houston area without success.  The problems cited have included assembled wrong, wrong clutch spacers and the latest was the removal of paint which had been applied to the internal parts at the California shop where it was purchased.  Can anyone suggest a competent rebuild shop where I can ship this unit for a proper rebuild?  I am reinstalling the 1957 unit in order to enjoy the ride in the meantime.  The details on the car, built November 1959, original #’s 283 2x4 and tranny, spending part of its life in California (black CA VIN tag) although I purchased the car in North Carolina in a neglected condition.

Thanks

Pat Murray

From Larry Richter Founding Treasurer, SACC:

Hi:  The problem appears to be a miss-mash of parts.  Call Drew at the Corvette Stop 1-800-924-2493.  He has a guy that can fix the posi.   This may be a little spendy but it will work.   Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

Hello- I am in the process of trying to install a new windshield in my 59 vette via the process of doing it with the frame srill in the car.How do I get the top center piece with the 4 screws off.  is it pried off or how without damaging it? thanks, Dale


From Larry Richter, SACC Founding Treasurer:

Hi:  First off you should not try to install the new windshield with the frame in the car.  You need to remove all 9 bolts ( the two on each side you will need to remove the inside kick panel, as they are at the back edges).  Once the frame is off the car the four screws will come out and this piece snaps off. The end pieces come off by tipping them out. ( you cannot do this with the frame in the car.) Be sure to measure the distance in several places so the new glass is set at the same height and angle as the old one or your top will not fit correctly.  You need to be very careful how you handle the new glass as it will break quickly.  Suggestion, take the frame with the old glass in it along with the new windshield to a glass shop that understands the early Corvettes. After they take the frame apart you may want to polish the stainless and chrome that is the frame.  You should put a new rubber in around the new windshield while it is apart.  What you pay them is cheaper than a new windshield if you break it.  Have fun   Larry

**********

Dear Sirs,
 
    I have a 1961 Corvette with the original 283/ 230 engine, B/W transmission, etc. The car has
been restored to all original except for front disc brakes, dual master cylinder and SS gas tank. 
All gages, even the parking brake light, work. My problem is the passenger door. It lifts slightly
on closing. Enough so that with the window rolled up, and convertible top up, you have "slam"
the door shut.
The door rubs the mating top of the body to a point where there are grooves in the fiberglass.
The drivers door closes perfect.  
My question is: How do you adjust the doors. I have pulled the side panels but am unable to see where
the hinges are attached to the door. None of the assembly manuals I have show this area.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Sincerely,
John

From Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  First off there is no adjustment on the doors except on the latch when the door closes.  What you might do is to find a body shop that knows something about the early Corvettes.  This is usually done by bending the hinges ever so slightly ( They may need to be removed first ).  With proper alignment the door should close correctly. Caution, again be sure the body man knows what they are doing or they may break the body.   The problem with the window is one of two items.  First is the window, it may not be adjusted correctly.  To do this remove the inside door panel.  It will not take very much adjustment.  Second,  the top made need a adjustment.  If the break in the top bow that is over the window is not straight when the top is up that may be some of the problem.  That sag in the top bow has caused a lot of problems. Thanks and enjoy the car.   Thanks Larry

**********

 Gentlemen, I've been looking for a Neutral Safety Switch Assembly and Bracket for my powerglide. Do you know where I may locate one and have one fabricated? Thanks Terry

 

From: Larry Richter, SACC Founding Treasurer:

Hi:  Here is the story.  The 61 Corvette is a one year only on the switch.  I did considerable checking and this is going to be difficult to obtain.  All my parts suppliers do not have one, either NOS, used or repo. It appears that no one is reproducing them.  Beware, some of the suppliers list a 53 to 68 as one part.  During this period there were seven different part numbers in the Corvette parts manual, and therefore not a one size fits all.   The 62 has a slightly different configuration due to the change to an aluminum housing.  The 60 may be able to be modified to fit a 61, perhaps some one will know. All I can say is good luck  Thanks Larry


**********
I have a 58 290hp fuelie that looks to be originally  silver. Do you know the correct  paint codes for body, wheels and the two  different side cove option colors?

 Thanks
Mike

From Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:
I've attached two sheets in a "word" document that should answer all Mike's questions, except one...  The answer to that one is that all wheels on 1958 Corvettes were "silver", regardless of the body color.

Hope it helps.
Brad

Click HERE

 

 

 

 


**********

Hi I'm about to fit a new rear crossmember on my 59 chassis but not sure how it should be done I have the rivvet kit but no instructions don't know how they go in or where to weld and where to fit rivets can you please help, Thank you  

From Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  They are riveted on the back ( two each side) and welded on the front.  This weld needs to be the full width of the frame.  Now a word of caution at this time I would only tack weld the rear cross member on the front and put bolts where the rivets go.  Why? This rear cross member is the rear body mount and the rear inside bumper support plus a couple of other items.  This rear cross member is very critical to the proper alignment of the body.  If it is off just a fraction or your frame is not 100% perfect you will have problems.  When you fit the body and bumpers this brace may need to moved a fraction to have everything fit.  After you fit the body and it is perfect, then pull the bolts and install the rivets and weld the rear brace to the frame.  Also before you do the paint and final fit and painting of the body have the rolling frame with the running gear installed, and get a four wheel alignment at a good shop.  Too many times the body is attached and painted and when the body shop moves the frame around they will break the body, fiberglass cracks really easily.  Thanks Larry


**********

Good evening,
    Thank you so much for the information on the suspension shims. Now could you tell me if there is a video of book out there that you judges use during the inspections of the car. I want it to be right the first time out. I am doing all the work myself in my own garage. I would love to find a restoration video that would guide someone as myself through the correct assembly process of what was painted then assembled or assembled then painted as you mentioned in your first reply to me.
 
    I have the third edition NCRS judging manual but it still leave a lot of questions I have unanswered. I also have Noland Adams Restoration technical guide. I just ordered the NCRS technical guide as I am a NCRS member. Any suggestion in the matters would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
P.S. What a great web site you run here. It is great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

From Larry Richter, Founding SACC Treasurer:

Hi:  Glad to help. To my knowledge there are no video's available for the chassis on the early cars.  However I have some suggestions for you, (1) From NCRS get the assembly manual for your 60 and the CD for the 58 to 60 model years, these will tell you a bunch. Example if the judging manual and the pictures in Noland's book show a natural bolt holding the part on then there is a good chance the part was painted then assembled on the car. (2) Contact Tim Mickey ( National Team leader for 58-60).  He is listed in the front of the Restorer.  (3) If you can find a 58 to 60 Duntov car somewhere close to where you live and the owner is willing to let you photo the car that will be another good source.  Remember all most none of the G.M. Semi gloss was exactly the same shade, so what do you do.  Say, paint the frame with the way it came out of the can, then add a little flattner to the paint and paint more pieces that the assembled to the frame later.  Then add some more flattener and do more parts. This will give you the slight shade difference.  There are some of the chassis that were left natural.  What I do is to clean them back to the original raw material and cover them with a thin coat of semi-gloss clear.  This keeps it from rusting for a while. Looking down the road, be sure to get a four wheel alignment before you try to fit the body on the frame.  Good Luck  Thanks Larry


**********

Good day to you,
    Do you know where I could buy NOS tapered aluminum shims for the front crossmember of my 1960 corvette? I am just starting a Top Flite restoration and have a long road ahead. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

From Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  The only suggestion I have is the Corvette Stop 1-800-924-2493.  The are very good with the early cars and will be a good source for NOS parts and information (Ask for Noland or Drew)   I believe that Corvette Central has them in Reproduction at 1-800-345-4122.  Remember that you are doing a NCRS restoration so some the parts are either hidden or we ( as National Judges) do not look closely at the parts. Example:  The front shims are almost completely hidden, as are the king pins and break shoes.  Now the bolts holding the A-arms together, the front stabilizer bar, the steering assembly and shocks are visible to the judge.  So be aware what is hidden and what is visible.  We not only judge the configuration but the type of finish on the part.  Be sure to consider if the part was painted and assembled or assembled and then painted, big difference.  Thanks Larry

**********
I'm finally getting to restore my 1961, do you know if the Honduras
>> Maroon
>> was available with a silver insert, or do you know where I can find out?
>> Thanks,
>> J.B.

From Larry Richter, Founding treasurer of SACC:



Hi; The original paint code for your car in a solid color is #523.  The only factory cove color for maroon was white and that was paint code #529.  The
cars were originally painted a solid color then the cove was painted over
the main color. If you are not going to have the car judged and you like
silver in the cove "go for it"  Enjoy the car. Thanks.
 Larry


**********

I have an older corvette and would like to do work on the interior door panels because they are cracking in spots  and would like to know how to repair them by myself and finding out the proper way/tricks and hints from the experts .

Thank you,

Mel

From Larry Richter, founding treasurer of SACC:

 

To my knowledge there is no repair or companies that do repair on door panels on our early cars. You will find various products that claim to but it does not work.  I would suggest you buy new one's, and save the old one's just in case someone really can repair them.  Enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

 

 

 

 

 

**********

Hi, I recently purchased a 1961 vett and stumbled across your site while trying to get info on wheel alignment. While I'm at it I have other questions also. Answers to any or all questions will be greatly appreciated. Some background first. The car is a '61 last #'s 110435 with a '65 327 365 hp motor, Muncie m21 (I think? no drain plug) and a Hurst shifter, everything else is pretty original with the exception of the paint, door panels and maybe the seat covers. I am told it had an old frame off resto ( I believe it as I inspected it closely on a lift and the frame still has paint on it and appears rock solid with no rust at all) and has been sitting for years. There does not seem to be any body repairs, all bonding strips there with factory fiberglass oozing out. All gauges work except tach (generator drive noisy so was disconnected ) and speedo. All gauge lights work, lights, blinkers, etc. The heater motor wasn't working but after crawling around under the dash I found it was just a fuse. I got a kick out of the close-line type drive for the windshield wiper drive, I've never seen that before, I tinkered with cars when I was younger but my oldest till now was a 64 GTO tri-power( wish I still had that one, I sold it with an extra parts years ago for $400! ) Anyway I am pleased with my vett except for the following:
 
> The car pulls to the right, can Is it assimple as adjusting the tie rod ends myself or should I get a professional?
 
> The steering wheel has a "flat" spot or a "skip" that seems to occur in different steering wheel positions at different times. Sometimes it happens around a slight corner, sometimes going straight. I have only driven the car close to home and go pretty slow, but is this an immently dangerous situation, could something break or is it just a tired steering box? I seem to recall reading something about this as common on C1's but can't remember where I read it.
 
> Is my car supposed to have a rear sway bar? I understand a sway bar was added from 59 to 60 but mine doesn't have one or the straps that hold up the rear end ( the brackets are there but no straps )  
 
>The car is fitted with rear air shocks, is there any reason this is not a good situation?
 
> I understand the front wheel bearings are not the greatest and need frequent greasing. Am I looking for trouble trying to dissemble, inspect, and re-pack them myself? Should I purchase replacement bearings before I even start? Can you recommend where to purchase them? I read about tightening to 15 ft lbs then back off is this correct information? Do you recommend or are there updated bearing assemblies available? This car was not purchased for any daily,long distance, highway, or high speed driving just a weekend cruiser. 
 
> The rear end seems about 1/4" off center, i.e. the tires are about 1/4" away from the springs on the left side and 3/4" on the right. Is this ok or does it need to be corrected?
 
Thank you in advance for any information/advice you can give.

From Larry Richter, founding SACC treasurer:

Hi:  First off you need to make the car drive correctly and safe.  It sounds like you need to have the steering gear box and the complete front end re-built.  The actual rebuilding you can do your self with new parts if you have the ability and the tools to do the job. You may need such items as king pins, upper and lower bushings and so on. You may want to take the car to someone that understands early Corvettes and just a every day shop.  Shop around your area and get references.  No references on early cars forget the shop. 
I would recommend a change over from the front ball bearings to the roller bearings.  They work great.  Next you need a good high end set of radials.  P205/75R 15 tires.  If you get Volume 14 # 1 of the club magazine " On solid Ground" I wrote a article where you can use a G.M. wheel that is 15X6 and the instructions of the how and where.  They really drive great.
Yes the Rear Stabilizer bar was standard equipment in the 61.
You really do not need rear air shocks just good new ones.  If the car sits too low in the back without the air shocks then you need to have the rear springs re-arched.  Be sure to take them to some who has the original measurements for the arch.
The car will not drive correctly until you do all of the above and get a four wheel alignment.  You may also have rear axle problems ( ie something is bent )
Corvette Central at 1-800-345-4122 is a good source of all the parts.    It sounds like this is not going to be a quick fix, but done correctly the first time for safety and you should get a lot of years of fun driving, go enjoy the car.  Thanks Larry

*********

Hi...I have a 1954 Corvette for which I have been searching for front and rear pinion bearings with no luck.  I have just about worn out my welcome on Google, I have been there so much.  Do you have any suggestions as to where one might find those bearings?
 
Thanks for your help
Dave

From Larry Richter, past Treasurer of SACC:

Hi:  Contact the Corvette Stop at 1-800-924-2493 or 1-530-677-4270  and talk to either Drew or Noland.  They should have them.  Thanks Larry

 

 

 

 

 

**********

I inherited a 1959 corvette in very bad shape I need to know the proper wheel size so I can try to find some. and what years might work.
 
thanks
 
Joe
From Larry Richter, founding Treasurer of SACC
Hi  The wheel size that was standard was 15 X 5 on a 4 and 3/4 bold pattern.  You should be able to find wheels as all 55 and 56 cars had the almost same wheel.  The only difference is most of the car wheels the spider was riveted to the wheel and on Corvette's they were welded.  If you are going to drive the car look back about 2 years in our club magazine, I wrote an article where you can use a 15 x 6 wheel.  Follow the instructions and they drive great.  Let us know if you need any more help.  Thanks Larry

********

Hi,
 
I'm putting an "inline 30AMP fuse holder", on my 1957 Corvette cigarette lighter.  ¿WHAT FUSE AMPERAGE SHOULD I PUT IN THE HOLDER??
 
 
This is a newly restored car.  A few months ago when I grounded the wire from the cegarette ligher element, the entire black ground wire melted onto my carpet.  I have since taken the cegarette lighter apart and I do NOT get the test light to light up when I contact the hot wire on the element and the ground wire on the housing.  I assume the cigarette lighter is OK.  I guess I will find out for sure when I put juice to the fuse holder.
 
I'm leaning towards putting a 7 AMP fuse in the holder.  ANY SUGGESTIONS??
 
Thank you in advance,
Mike

Hi  All of the original material has the cigarette lighter with other items on the car on the same fuse.  They are all 20 amp.  I would use a #12 wire to both the inline and the automobile fuse holder. In the inline I would put the smallest fuse that will hold it.  Start with a 8 amp and if it does not hold it go to a 10 and on up.  A 15 amp should hold fine, if it does not you have another problem in the car.   Good Luck  Thanks Larry

********

 

Dear Sacc,
 
I have a 1960 Corvette - last 6 digits of VIN # are  102761. By all accounts this car rolled off the assembly line in Dec 1959. I believe they started building 1960 C1s in Oct 59 - I guess to have sufficient numbers for the dealers come Jan 1960. Is there any way to get a specific build date from the VIN number as all of the VIN decoders don't seem to go into that much detail. Also how do I find out what options were originally fitted to the car?
 
Regards and thanks for your time
 
Mick

From Ken Amrick, Editor, On Solid Ground:

Mick,
   There is a book that was published from GM records that gives a specific build date for the car, but I don't have it.  I don't believe there is any way to determine what options originally came with the car. 
Ken  

 

 

From Max Brockhouse, SACC President:

Your '60 was built midday January 20, 1960. 
Max

 

 

 

Hi:  Regarding your 60, the more original the car the more you can learn about the car.  Let me explain.  #2761 was build early in the fourth week of January of 1960.  Now for some clues on the options.  To my knowledge there is no original data that will tell you exactly what the car was born with.  I would recommend that you purchase Noland Adams Corvette and Restoration book Vol #1 for reference.
    1.  If it has the original engine, on the block pad will be a engine assembly date and two letter code.  These codes will give you the engine horsepower and the transmission.  If it is a restamp or another engine that information is almost gone, with one exception.  If it has the original tach and the redline is at 5200 rpm it was a 230 or 245 horse. If it is at 6200 it was a 270 or F.I. 290.
    2.  On the fuel injection there are several was to tell if was an original F. I. ( look in Nolands Book )
    3.  Color, Look around the interior of the door hinges, deep inside the trunk, under the rubber of the windshield, in the area where the top folds down for clues.  If it was a complete restoration and a good one, you will not know the original color if it had a color change.
    4.  The rear axle had a tag with two letters if that is still attached that will tell you if it was a positraction and the transmission type.  This will also give you the transmission ( the codes should be the same on the original engine and the original rear axle. )
    5.  Is any of the original upholstery still in the car? Certain interior colors came with certain exterior colors.
    6.  Even if you trace the owners back, they could have all changed some items.
 
Even if everything is changed and the car runs and drives great and you like the car.  "Enjoy it"
 
Thanks Larry

 

******

 

Hi,

I am searching for a correct dated block for a overseas friend with a
62. I know that NCRS accept the a 6 months cast date difference to the
cars build date but I am trying to understand how long a block sat prior
to being assembled.

Approximate birthday for 05443 is January 15, 1962 according to the
birthday calendar.

I have seen different articles about correct numbers matching straight
axle cars that have different time spreads between the casting date and
the build date.
Would 14 days between casting and build be too close for 1962?
What would be the normal spread for a 62 of this period?

The UAW contract states that the workers had a half day on Christmas Eve
and New Years Eve with a full day for Christmas Day and New Years Day.
that would add a total of 3 days during the Christmas Holiday.

I saw you answer about a 59 motor and you gave advice that it would be a
month between cast and build. This adds to my confusion.

Any help would be great fully received.

Thank You
Tony

From: Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer of SACC

Hi:  I am unsure when G.M. starting casting the 870 block.  A guess would be
early in 61 for test purposes.  The first production 62 Corvettes were
assembled in St. Louis in mid August of 6l. That will tell you that the
motor assembly would be in July of 6l.  NCRS generally will allow a 6 months
window on the casting date of the block. ( in your case that would be a July
61 cast dated block up to December 61 for the window.)  A January 62 cast
dated block will be too late ( in most cases) for the car assembly date mid
Jan of 62.  The 870 Block was used in many different vehicles starting for
the model year 62.  Have the block tested before shipping.  Let me know if
you need additional data.  Thank Larry

******




i need some advice.  have a '62 that i've been rebuilding for 17 years.  got it finished and tried to align the front end and it was so far out that neither caster or camber could be adjusted within spec.  all shafts and bushings are new, crossmember and control arms are used but new to the car.  right spring tower needed a repair 'bung' welded in for the upper shaft.  right side is farther out than left.  a friend of mine with a state of the art body shop says  it won't be a problem to flex the crossmember to bring both sides within adjustment range on his frame rack with laser/digital locating system.
 
is this the best way to deal with the problem?  does anyone make crossmember to frame shims that would correct the problem?  i put new, factory spec, shims in when i rebuilt the front end.  is there someone i could talk to who really knows old chevy front ends?  vette service manual says to recenter the control arms on the tower, 'bear' brake and alignment book suggests bending the crossmember.  i don't want to do anything until i know what i'm doing.
 
any help is greatly appreciated.  thanks.   
 
greg 

From Larry Richter, Founding Sacc Treasurer

Hi;  I agree with your friend with the laser/digital system and a four wheel alignment.   You may have more problems then with the front end ( ie the frame) if the frame needs adjusting it will move the body panels around.  This means that the fit on the body will be off.  It may even crack some of the fiberglass.
Suggestion.  First have him see if it is the front end in and of itself.  If it is, and you have the new correct parts it should ( note should) be corrected.  If not and you need to do some frame adjustment you may have a serious problem. Some of the problem may in the alignment of the real axle.  I just follow the Assembly manual with the front end rebuild, correct parts, and a good frame shop.
All old car restorations should start with a four wheel laser alignment and then fit the body to that frame.  Who knows how many accidents the auto was in.  Be careful and let me know.  Thanks Larry

 

**********
Hi.....I am trying to find where I could obtain an exploded view of the shifting mechanism for my 55 corvette.....even a hand drawn picture would be great.....Thanks for any assistance.....Denny

From Max Brockhouse, SACC President

 Your best bet would be to purchase the 55 info book(s) from NCRS or buy the assembly books from Corvette Central or Mid America.

 




**********
Hello…I recently bought a ’61 with a 350 in it…..the tires are not original with P215/65 R15’s on it….I would like to replace with original tires, wheels and hubs but am having trouble finding wheels that will work…do you have a suggestion as to where? Cokers was no help with the wheels….thanks, Jerry

From: Larry Richter, SACC Founding Treasurer

Hi:  Original wheels for 56 to 62 Corvettes are the same as 55 – 56 Full size car.  For Corvettes they were welded and most of the car ones were riveted. From the outside they look the same. You should be able to find lots of them.  Have the wheels balanced first.  You need to get P-205 75 R 15, these are about 3/8 of a inch shorter in height than the original 6:70.  The 205 works really great with a six inch rim ( see a detailed map of the wheels in a issue of Straight Talk about a year ago written my me. )all info is in the article.  I have them on my 62 and they drive really nice.  Any Questions or comments let me know. Many Thanks Larry

 

 

**********

I have a problem that is driving me nuts.  I have a '61 vette, with a 350
> crate motor. I have an overheating problem.  it is ok when driving, but,
> when I get in stop and go traffic, or stop at a long stop light, it
> overheats. I replaced the copper radiator with a Dewitt aluminum radiator.
> I was told the car would run 20% cooler. WRONG.  tried water wetter, NO!
> tried several different rad. caps,, nope. replaced fan and fan clutch with
> a
> six blade flexlite fan with spacer, no.  tried 180 thermo, no. tried 165
> thermo, no. replaced fan clutch, still overheats. I have a shroud.  the
> motor has only a few thousand miles on it. (when I bought the car, it had
> a
> 327 motor in it, and it overheated.) when I first got the car, there was
> no
> recovery system, the first time I would take the car out, like to a show
> and
> park, the radiator would always puke. it did this no matter if the coolant
> was low, or up to the top, didn't ,matter. It also did it with the new
> motor.  I now have a recovery tank on it. I gave up and took it to a shop.
> it was running at 165deg. we let it idle for about ten minutes, and the
> temp
> gage buried past 220. when I shut it off, it blew the cap off the plastic
> recovery tank, and puked all over. I left it with the shop, and after a
> lot
> of money spent, it still overheats. the shop suggests using a 7 blade fan,
> but if a 6 blade didn't work, why would a 7?  there other suggestions were
> to seal the narrow gap between the radiator, and the fan shroud, or to
> call
> De Witt and get an electric fan to mount on the radiator.
> Any suggestions?
> thanks, Chuck.

From Larry Richter, Founding Treasurer, SACC
Hi:  It appears that with all that you have done with the cooling problem,
you may have an internal engine problem.  Could be (1) timing - too far
advanced (2) vacuum, or lack of it (3) A Crack in a head or block that
only opens up with heat, have a leak down test preformed when the engine
is hot, and exhaust gas test in the radiator. (4) timing chain one
tooth off (5) exhaust manifold or pipe blockage
Any good shop should be able to perform most of the tests 

Let me know what you find  Thanks Larry

**********

I have a 1962 corvette with a tired NOM.  I want to install a new Ram Jet
> >350 GM Crate motor. I need to know if this engine can be installed without
> >having to modify the hood to allow clearance for the fuel injection unit?


From: Larry Richter, founding Treasurer, SACC

Hi:  That is a good question.  I should fit , but you may want to take some
measurements first. a. The motor mounts to the top of the engine on both the
new and old engine. b. the set back on the engine for firewall clearance. c.
height of the new and old motor. d. does the new motor need a adaptor to
bolt on the early fuel injection unit. e. and several more.  Thanks Larry

********

 

How difficult is it to install a quick steering adaptor, and is it worth
>> the
>> effort?
>> Thanks, Chuck



From Noland Adams,
President Emeritus




Chuck,

The fast steering adaptor is quite easy to install. First, remove the tie
rod ends from the third arm. Then install the adaptor, which uses those
original holes. Attach the U-bolt around the third arm, and install the
original tie rod ends in the adaptor. Next, you're going to drive slowly to
the closest wheel alignment shop, where you will need the toe-in corrected.
If you don't drive slowly, you'll lose a lot a valuable tread.

I installed a quick steering adaptor on my 1957 Corvette back in the good
old days, which was an early model with 270 hp and a 3 speed transmission.
Is it worth it? That's something you will have to answer to your
satisfaction after it's installed. You'll find the steering is very stiff
when the Corvette is stopped or moving at a low speed. After about 20 mph or
so it becomes easier to steer, and it's a real pleasure at highway speeds.
After I got used to the quicker steering, I would not have considered going
back to the stock ratio.

One little trick that will help you steer easier at a vehicle speed of 5 mph
or less is to run 5 to 6 more PSI in each front tire. You'll drive more on
the center crown of the tire which lowers friction. However, it's not enough
to effect handling and traction safety.

Good Luck!

Later, Noland

 

From Larry Richter, founding
Treasurer, SACC

 

Hi Assuming your entire front end is in perfect condition ( most are not unless a recent rebuild).  It is not too bad. You will need a four wheel alignment after it is installed.  It will drive different so be careful on the highway until you and the car get to know one another.  I personally do not like them unless you are doing some type of racing or auto cross events.   Thanks Larry



****************

 

Dear Sirs:

 On a 1961 Corvette, does the interior door lock knob point to the front or rear of the car? I keep getting contradictory information and have now come to the source of all knowledge on our favorite car.

 I look forward to hearing from you.

 Regards.

 

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:

Correct orientation is to the rear, handle down when locked.


 

 _________________________________SACCTECH__________________________________________

 

Dear Solid Axle Corvette Club Tech Desk:

I have a opportunity to purchase a "stated as" a  Exclusively for Corvette Owners Folder (1957 Corvette)
This is the folder that came in all new Corvettes years 1957 to 1962, the "Original Owners", by mailing in the Corvette News Post Card, that was attached to the front of their Corvette's Owners Manual would receive back the folder that was titled:  Exclusively for Corvette Owners, this contained the following items:
 
1- Folder (Blue in color) with the Title Exclusively for Corvette Owners on the front of it.
 
1- 10K Gold Pin, back of the clasp stamped Ballou Reg (in small plastic case)
 
1- Corvette Owners Identification Card (Business card size)
 
1-Copy of Corvette News
 
1-Corvette Patch (Cloth sewn type, round circle) with Chevrolet Corvette, crossed flags, gold V pictured
 
Note:  There may have been also, a welcome letter with this folder additionally.
 
Any additional detailed information/pictures you can supply would very much be appreciated.  Also, if you can or would direct me to a site that could give me the additional information or e-mail any documented photos of any of the items or printed material listed it would be great.  This above listed information is the best I have at present and time and I have no documentation or proof to back any of it up.  I really, need some close-up details of the original items and written material to justify the extreme asking price for this folder and contents.  I haven't first hand knowledge or any expertise with this type of material, but would be happy to supply any gained information or identification from the purchase of this material with you if I do complete the purchase.  I have 1957 Fuel Injected Corvette, and most of the information, about this folder was told to me by the original owner.  He has long since passed away, I didn't really realize at the time of our discussion about the folder.  It was just a conversation at the time, general information that I was getting from him.  I have really attempted to keep the car original and pass it on to my boys, so many of the cars have been revised and cut-up for parts and customized.
 
With the age of this material, and very limited accessibility and extreme high price, you can see what a position it places a buyer in.
 
Thanks in Advance for any help.
Dan



From Noland Adams, President Emeritus, Solid Axle Corvette Club,
Author, Member, National Corvette Museum Hall of Fame

 

 

Dear Dan,
 
I remember the Corvette Owners package very well. I worked in the parts department of the local Chevrolet dealer at the time, and my every day driver was a 1953 Corvette. Whenever anything Corvette-related came to the dealership, I got it. There was an original announcement sent out to all Chevy dealers, and I filled out and sent the form in to Chevrolet. Copy machines were not common in 1957, but now I wish I had kept a copy of that announcement somehow. In the process of four moves, my Corvette package got separated, and then lost.
 
However, I do recall the package very well. It seems that the letter with the package stated that you were fortunate to own a Corvette, Etc. I don't have any photos or other information to share with you. I remember that the patch had a lot of gold threads in it, and it really looked good!
 
You didn't mention the asking price for this package. Remember, as you stated, it's an old and hard-to-find package. However, due to its rarity, I expect  the seller could ask just about any unreasonable amount, and someone would be willing to pay that amount. Just remember that this is old and fragile materials. You'll want to store it in a sealed frame, mounted on acid-free paper. Any good photo frame shop can direct you how to store these valuable items.
 
In fact, the many documents we have that support the originality of our Corvettes should be preserved in the same way. If not, they will fade away into- nothing.
 
Perhaps other readers will have more information on the Corvette Owner's Folder and its contents.
 
Thanks for the question,
 
Noland Adams

Web Editor's Note: Dan, It is obvious that you have lots of knowledge and enthusiasm for solid axle Corvettes.  We would
love to have you join the Solid Axle Corvette Club!

_________________________________SACCTECH__________________________________________

Sir,
    I own 1959 Corvette #6655, with a build date somewhere around April 17, 1959. After searching for 15 years, I finally found what I believe to be a correct numbers matching block.  It is a #519 block with casting date B109. The stamp pad has the original stamping F310CS ( which works for my original 290 horse FI car). My question is in regards to the correct heads to use.  It is my understanding from reading your Restoration Guide- Vol. 1 that the #3755550 head was used until assembly date 3/9, and after that the #3767465 was used which makes that a possibility for my block's 3/10 assembly date.
What would be your recommendation for head number and casting date for my engine?
Thank you in advance for your consideration in this matter,

 

From Noland Adams, President Emeritus, Solid Axle Corvette Club,
Author, Member, National Corvette Museum Hall of Fame

 

 

Dirk,
 
Here's your answers. First, your '59, serial number 6655, had a final assembly date of Friday, April 17, 1959, according to the Corvette Birthday Book. Now let's build a calendar for your Corvette:
 
Casting date on heads _________________See Below_________________
engine block casting date B109 (Feb. 10, 1959)
engine assembly date F310CS (March 10)
Final assembly date April 17, 1959
 
Since the heads were installed on the engine when it was built on March 10, the heads must precede that date. After being cast, the heads are inspected, machined, and assembled. Each of these three processes takes time- at least two weeks. So you are looking for a set of '59 heads that were cast before the approximate date of Feb. 20, 1959. The code would be B209, both the dates on both heads could vary as much as two weeks, as long as they both are dates B209 or earlier.
 
You should not be concerned with the casting numbers of the heads as much as the casting dates. The head casting line usually did not make a complete changeover, as the dies for the heads are a complex marching job. Therefore, the heads could be 550 or 465- surely the supply line of 550 and 465 heads became mixed after the inspection, machining, and assembly processes. So look for heads with the "right" casting date for your engine. It is possible that the heads were cast after the block.
 
Write back if you have more questions.

_______________________________________________________________________________________