
Technical Help from the Solid Axle Corvette
Club
*Note: It has come to my attention that Chip Werstein
has passed away. When we created this page to help
anyone who has a
tech question regarding a solid axle Corvette, Chip was right there from the
beginning. His answers helped
many, many people, whether they were club
members or not. Chip, you will be missed!
To submit a technical question regarding a 1953
to 1962 Corvette, simply email
sacctech@solidaxle.org
*Note: If you are using an Apple iPhone, you will have to hold down on the blue
letters. Then a box comes up and you
will need to select "New Mail Message". You should be fine then,
your email question will go to it's intended mailbox.
*In the subject box you need to put "sacctech/
(your SACC
membership number)". Example: sacctech/1234
If you are not a member, your question will not be excluded, however, it won't
get priority.
Disclaimer:
Our officers enjoy answering questions about your Corvette. Please keep in mind
before asking questions that we are not qualified or certified to diagnose
problems you may be experiencing with your Corvette. It is recommended that an
A.S.E. (Automotive Service Excellence) certified automotive technician diagnose
the vehicle for you. This way you get an accurate diagnoses on the problem and
an understanding of the parts necessary to remedy the problem. The experts
render opinions. Remember, the Solid Axle Corvette Club does not endorse
any supplier, manufacturer, or place of repair.
Keep in mind that members enjoy a wealth of
information via the SACC quarterly magazine, On Solid Ground. Here are
some of the topics contained in the Spring, 2008 issue:
-Insulate Your Solid Axle
-1956 Goodyear Corvette
-Harmonic Balancer Re-Install
-Six Cylinder Corner
-Will We Need NOS Engine Oil for out Old Cars?
-The Willet Run Garage
-The Marketplace - Member Classified
**********
06/29/2022
Suggestions for Alignment setting?..
Thanks
Larry
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Larry: The front end alignment specifications for 1953-1962 Corvettes is
found on page 14-1 of the Corvette Servicing Guide, Chevrolet publication
ST-12. This is the only official Chevrolet service manual for the 1953-1962
Corvette, and it is a"must have" for all C1 Corvette owners. It is available
as a reprint from all the major Corvette parts suppliers.
The front end alignment specifications for 1953-62 Corvettes are:
Caster: 2 degrees, plus or minus 1/2 degree.
Camber: 1/2 degree, plus or minus 1/2 degree
Toe-In (per wheel): 1/16"-1/8"
Larry Pearson
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Larry,
The C-1 alignment
article was published by Vette Magazine in their
June
2002 edition. It was an article by Richard F Newton.
Michigan Chapter
has a copy on our website,
www.solidaxlecorvettemi.com.
You may have to get our webmaster's
permission on signing in, but that's easy.
The article is a pdf file.
https://www.solidaxlecorvettemi.com/_files/ugd/0f0903_dd0ca5b654ea420bbc1d5ff55766753c.pdf
Same alignment works for both bias-ply and radials, but radials give a more
stable ride.
I take a copy with me to the alignment shop so the tech will
know how.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
06/19/2022
How to replace upper eye brow moldings on a 1959 Corvette,
Thank you.
Don
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Don: I am assuming that you are referring to the front left and right
upper outer grille moldings. These are chrome plated zinc metal die
castings. Corvette Central sells new replacement moldings. Each of the
four outer grille moldings have three 1/4-20 plated steel mounting studs
threaded into them. They attach to the fiberglass body from inside the
fender with 7/16 inch steel hex nuts which thread onto the studs. These
mounting nuts are easily accessible without removing the front wheels if
you turn the wheel in.
It is very possible that your hex nuts are rusted onto the mounting
studs, and trying to remove them will either break the mounting studs or
cause them to unthread from the moldings. If the studs break off close
to the castings, you will have to drill them out, a very difficult
procedure. New replacement studs can be made from 1/4-20 bolts of an
appropriate length by sawing the hex head off. New 1/4-20 nuts are
readily available from hardware stores. Use 1/4 inch flat and lock
washers under the mounting nuts. Apply grease on the end of the studs
before installing the nuts to prevent future rusting.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/14/2022
I purchased a restomod wonderbar radio for my 1959 corvette. I had a mobile
tech come out and install it. Warranty on installation is over. It worked fine
for awhile then just recently when I turn off the ignition to lock the radio
stays on. The radio company did three bench tests and found nothing wrong with
the radio. However, now it won’t turn off. I have to unplug it. Is it in the
ignition switch wiring?
-David
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Probably an ignition switch
problem. The radio itself don't know whether you have the car running or not.
As long as it has power (12V) it will stay on, unless turned off manually with
the Vol control knob. The circuit should be a 14Ga. pink wire off the ign sw -
to the fuse panel - 14 Ga Yellow, to the radio connector. The Gas and Temp
gauges are fed from the same Ign Sw terminal. Does the gas gauge drop to 0 when
you turn off the ignition? If so the radio is wired to an incorrect source
(12V). If NOT the ignition switch is faulty.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
David: locojohns (John Spencer) did an excellent job with his answer.
Additionally, turning the radio Volume control fully counterclockwise until
it clicks must turn the radio off, even if the ignition switch won't, and
you are saying it doesn't. If that is the case, the radio on/off switch is
defective and needs to be repaired, in addition to the problem with the
radio not turning off with the ignition switch, which it should. You say
that the radio worked fine until recently. It is hard to believe that two
separate things went bad at the same time.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/10/2022
Hi:
Anyone the San Fernando Valley, or L.A do fabulous minor body work
and painting?
Joe
Also, my Electronic Power Assist Steering
system has aggravated the cars tendency to wander and reduced its ability to
re-center from turns. I’m told this might be remedied by adding caster to the
upper A-arm pivot and installing a second shim. Can you tell me if adding shims
is a time consuming job or a simple one please?
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: Joe,
The Corvette Servicing
Guide ST-12 shows a clear picture of the 3733477 shims, which are the tapered
aluminum spacer that sets caster on C-1's.
They are located between the front
frame rail and the front suspension crossmember. After 60 years both shims could
be deteriorated due to galvanic action if you live near the ocean.
To
replace them, the front crossmember assembly must be unbolted from the frame (8
bolts on each rail) and dropped down far enough to clean & paint the affected
areas and reassemble with new shims & fasteners. Be careful of the gas & brake
lines if you do this.
However, I suspect that the accumulated
backlash/looseness in the steering system may be your biggest issue.
You
need to check for looseness in the steering gearbox, the two drag link bushings,
third arm bearing, tie-rod ends, kingpins & the wheel bearings all of which are
simpler fixes before you opt for the major surgery.
Good luck with your
project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
06/02/2022
I have 61 Corvette and all four hub caps keeps moving. It
will move enough that it would bend the valve stems. I rest all four hub caps
take the car out for a ride, come home and have to reset hub caps again..
I do have the correct rims for the car with four nubs on them. The wheel
cover only two delineated spaces on each hub cap. I was told I need four on each
hub cap. Please advise……Glenn
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I have had the same problem with four nub wheels.
May need to bend the clips out a (very) little.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glenn: Starting in 1966, I have owned one 1960 and three 1962's and never
have experienced the problem that you are having. Except for some minor
appearance issues, the 1955-56 Chevy sedan rims are identical to the 1955-62
Corvette rims and, therefore, are not rare. I suspect that the wheel covers
that you are using might be reproductions, and that might be the cause of
your problem. Original wheel covers snap firmly into place and mount
tightly against the wheel rim. Grabbing the spinner, you cannot move them.
If yours are loose it might be possible to bend the areas where the wheel
nubs contact the lip on the wheel cover to make them mount tightly on the
rim. Original wheel covers are available, but will cost you at least $400
for a decent set. To stay with what you have, I suggest that you convert
your rubber valve stems to metal ones, which are readily available at tire
shops, and you will need a tire shop to install them.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/20/2022
The drivers side clamp that secures the top needs tightened. Would
appreciate your help on how to tighten it on my 62. Thank you.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I assume that you are referring to the chrome plated clamp on the driver's
side that clamps the top front header to the windshield frame being loose.
The procedure to adjust this clamp is outlined in the official Chevrolet
Corvette shop manual, "Corvette servicing Guide", publication ST-12, on page
1-29, under the heading "PROBLEM B". If you don't have a copy of ST-12, it
is available as a reprint from all of the major Corvette parts suppliers,
and I highly recommend that you acquire a copy if you don't already have
one.
If you don't have a copy of ST-12, the adjustment procedure is a simple
one. Unlatch both right and left clamps and raise the top header off the
windshield frame with a piece of 3/4 " wood. If this is a hard top, you may
have to loosen the two front top hold down screws so as not to stress the
top assembly. Loosen the two large chrome plated Phillips head screws that
secure the clamp that needs adjusting to the top header, and you will find
that the clamp can be adjusted up and down to make it tighter or looser when
clamping the top header to the windshield frame. Adjust as necessary and
then tighten the screws. There should be an adequate adjustment range unless
the top header weatherstrip is damaged or missing.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/12/2022
New member here # 5130. 1960 model. I have two assembly manuals. Does
anybody or anywhere is there an explanation of the numbers and letters in these
books? My Mid America manual pg L71 has a 451247 screw. Is there footnotes for
these? Thanks, Jim
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Jim,
I believe the numbers you refer to are GM part numbers. If someone has
an old parts book they may be able to look up the number and tell you
what the screw is.
Verle
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jim: I am assuming that you are referring to the 1960 Corvette Assembly
Instruction Manual (AIM). The wonderful thing about the AIM's is that the
GM part number for every part, sealant, screw, washer and nut that was used
in the assembly of your 1960 Corvette is listed. However, except for
specialty hardware, none of the screws were listed for separate sale in the
parts book. Instead, the parts books state the size and length of the
hardware. For example, SCREW, (1/4-20 x 5/8"). I have a Corvette
parts book from 1972 and your 451247 screw is not listed in the part number
index. My AIM for 1960 does not have page numbers like L71, so I cannot
determine what particular screw you are talking about. Almost all hex head
bolts used in your car had a head stamping indicating the strength (grade
3,5,or 8) and the manufacturer's trade mark (A,E,U.TR, RBW, for example),
and the NCRS judging guides frequently specify these markings. Corvette
Central reproduces and sells some of the hardware specified in the NCRS
judging guides.
When I restored my 1962 Corvette in 1974, I cataloged every screw in the car
by the head stamping, the length, and the pitch of the thread. I then
cleaned them and had all of them re-cadmium plated and then I put them back
where they came from when I re-assembled the car. My 1962 Corvette has all
the original nuts and bolts, and they all look like new!
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: I have an original Chevrolet
parts catalog for 1953 through 1973. I show no reference to any Chevrolet part
number 451247. If you can describe the application, I can probably identify the
screw if that's what you're looking for.
**********
05/07-2022
Hi - my 54 restoration is complete except for new convertible top. I
need a tan(beige) top. Is Al Knoch the only source, or are there other
suppliers
today?
Thanks,
Mike
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: I put a canvas Al Koch top on my
54 in 2000. I’ve been very pleased with it.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Mike: In my experience, go with Al Knoch. His products are considered to
be the best. The only problem I have had is with the length of his pads
that go under the top fabric and act to properly space the bows. Using his
pads on my 1960 and 62, they come pre-cut to length and were at least one
inch too short and I had to make compromises to make them work. This might
not be the case with the 53-55 pads. Local installer Jeff Reade has Al make
his pads longer, and they are referred to as the "Jeff Reade" pads. Call
Jeff at 310.570.5554 for more information.
One other problem is with the thickness of the top material that all
reproduction top makers are currently using. The original top fabric was
very thin and the top folded into the top compartment behind the seats with
no effort. The new material is very thick and stiff and it is very
difficult to get the top into the top compartment so the lid can close.
Again, this is for the 56-62 tops. I have no experience with the 53-55 top
material. Either way, there is nothing that you can do about it.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/04/2022
Hi... I'm trying to find where and which direction a distributor heat shield
goes on my car. As you well know, passenger side
bolted to exhaust manifold.
Any information you may lend will be greatly appreciated. 1959 2X4
Carbs.
Best,
Mike
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The driver side mounts just like
the passenger side - two tabs mounted to the inside bolts of the front and rear
exhaust manifold mounting bolts. See photos.
Driver's
shielding
Front
side mount
Rear
shielding
Corvette Central has a good illustration of the shielding and mounting
hardware. Pg95 - mounting brackets are identified as L-Brackets P/N 471125 (4
required)
Ffrom:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The chrome plated shields shown in the pictures are not all of the
shields.. They were installed on radio equipped Corvettes to shield the AM
radio from spark plug radio interference. The complete radio shielding on
your 1959 Corvette consists of five pieces: one on each side of the engine
as shown in the photos; two vertical pieces at the rear of the engine going
up to the distributor; and a large polished stainless steel cover over the
distributor and the ignition coil. Radio delete Corvettes got none of
this. This shielding was necessary because the Corvette fiberglass body
offered no shielding to the radio from the engine ignition radio noise.
This shielding was not needed with the metal cars and trucks, where the
steel body shields the radio.
There were, however, four separate spark plug wire heat shields installed on
all 1958-62 engines. They protect the spark plug wire boots from exhaust
manifold radiant heat that would damage them. They each attach to the
engine block on each side using a short 1/4 inch thread 7/16 hex head bolt
with captured external star lock washer, These heat shields were present on
all Corvettes. If you are using silicone rubber spark plug wires and boots,
these heat shields are probably not necessary.
Refer to Corvette Central's catalog under "Ignition Shielding" to see all
the parts and hardware needed for a complete radio shielding setup,
including the four spark plug wire heat shields, which can be purchased
separately.
Larry Pearson
**********
04/08/2022
I am trying to find the location for the stamped numbers on
the frames of my 1954 and 1962 Corvettes could you please help!
Chuck
From: Bruce Fuhrman, past Secretary of SACC:
I had a 1954 (but not a 1962). I had experience in CA in finding the S/N. The
S/N is stamped on the frame below the drivers lift cheek (on the bodily rear
end). It can not be visable, there is only less than in inch clearance from the
body! You can rub the sandpaper on the spot, and put chalk dust and an mirror to
observe it.
Good Luck!
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
03/23/2022
I am working a 59 frame off and am getting bac to body reassembly. Looking
over the grill and eyebrow surrounds and the studs used to affix them to the
body. Keen, corvette central and zip along with my original have various sizes
of studs. The grill surround appears to use 2 inch long studs on the outer most
“circumference” but when installed over 1” of stud is exposed. Is this correct?
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Ron,
Those
vendors you mentioned, and most others supply diecast surrounds & eyebrows
from Trim Parts that were cast in GM's original tooling.
The studs
are shorter on the ends of the surround.
You have
most likely been to car shows and seen C-1s with 1 or more dimples in the
upper surround. Beware overtightening the washers & nuts on the
studs when you install them. The dimples are re-assembly damage.
Good luck
with your project,
Bill
Huffman, Pres
Michigan
Chapter SACC
(Discussion continued)
Thank you Jack, I just joined SACC this afternoon. What im trying to verify
is are the studs , 2 inch long correct. When installed and hardware on they
protrude about 1 inch and appear too long. The Assembly manual shows same part
number for all studs. But I have 3 lengths. Here is a picture of the upper grill
surround for my 59 with the studs installed.

From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Ronald - I have a 58 whose grill
surround is original, and the mounting studs are long like those shown in your
photo (approx. 2").
**********
03/08/2022
Hi, I Joined the SACC earlier this year #5112 and I’m looking forward to
the club activities. I just purchased a 1957 270 HP corvette this year. The
car was restored over a period of years finishing in about 2011. After going
through the NCRS judging process that concluded in 2013 the car was mostly
stored in a climate controlled room and obtained about 130 miles since the
restoration. The car was started on a regular basis during storage.
I am
now experiencing a starter issue. When trying to start the engine i will get a
whining noise from the starter. The starter is not engaging the flywheel just
spinning. This may happen two, three times in a row and then it does engage and
the engine will start.
Does this sound like a solenoid problem or could
it be the starter drive that is attached to the solenoid. My thought is since
this starter was rebuilt perhaps 12 to 15 years ago and only 130 miles on it
perhaps it is dirty or needs lubrication? Or is it a typical solenoid fault?
Thanks
Eugene
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I would first check to make sure the starter bolts are tight.
When you turn the key to start position you should hear a metallic
click. That would be the starter gear engaging the flywheel.
Since the starter is just spinning the starter is not engaging the
flywheel but the solenoid is working enough to provide power to the
starter motor.
Get someone to help you turn the engine a little ways. Put the car in
high gear and push/bump forward or back a little just to turn the
flywheel some. Then, try the starter again. This is a check to see if
some ring gear teeth may be missing.
If the starter just spins after that I would remove the starter and
investigate the solenoid and the starter gear.
You can bench test the solenoid with a battery and jumper cables.
Positive battery to the large top post on the solenoid. Touch the
negative to the starter case. The starter must be securely attached to
the bench. When you touch the negative cable to the battery it will
torque over violently if not fastened down.
If the starter gear does not extend to engagement position remove the
solenoid and check the linkage.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: I agree with Verle, however, to
get the solenoid to kick in you have to apply 12V to the solenoid terminal
marked "S". This terminal is connected to your ignition switch. The battery
cable attached to the large terminal is always hot. When the solenoid is
energized it connects the Battery cable to the starter and pushes the starter
gear (bendix) into the flywheel. If the starter is spinning then the solenoid
is operating. BUT the solenoid also pushes the bendix gear into the flywheel to
roll the engine. The Bendix gear is a spring loaded and threaded assembly.
Normally the starter gear is on the end of the Bendix assembly (held there by a
spring). When the solenoid is activated the Bendix assembly is pushed into the
flywheel, with the gear at it's end, it engages the flywheel. When the engine
starts, the speed of the flywheel is greater than the rotational speed of the
starter and the gear is extracted because it is on a threaded shaft that
basically unscrews it from the forward position (disengages the flywheel). Once
the starter is rested - a spring pushes the starter gear to the START position
(end of the shaft), ready for the next time you need to start the engine. If the
spring that normally returns the starter gear is weak or broken the gear does
not return to the START position, thus when you engage the starter the gear does
not engage the flywheel. The whole Bendix assembly or the spring itself can be
replaced. I hope this helps - this is not a complicated repair. Getting the
starter off is probably the hardest part of the process.
PS: You can engage the solenoid without suffering the violent torque of the
starter by simply applying 12V to the starter terminal (marked "S") without
applying 12V to the battery terminal.
Follow-up:
This is a follow up question regarding the starter not engaging the flywheel
and just whining. I pulled the starter and i have it strapped to my bench.
When I put 12 volts to the large top post and ground the starter then put 12
volts to the s terminal the starter gear works fine. The solenoid shoots out
the gear and spins every single time. It is not
acting like it did when the
starter was bolted to the engine. I looked at the flywheel and all of the ring
gears look good. Could this be due to no load on the starter and not a very
robust bench test? I would hate to crawl back under and install back on the
engine and find out it still needs to be rebuilt.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Eugene - does the drive gear spin
freely in one direction and lock up in the other ? The drive gear is suppose to
spin freely in one direction only. The large hub just behind the gear is a
ratchet. A Bendix assembly (or starter drive assembly) is only about $50 - I
might replace it just to see what happens. Good Luck - John
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The problem you are having is most likely caused by a worn out Overrunning
Clutch assembly. The pinion gear is attached to a cylinder that contains
what is known as a sprag. This is a one-directional clutch device. When
the starter is spinning the pinion gear against the flywheel teeth it fully
engages the starter motor shaft to the pinion gear and cranks the engine
over. When the engine starts, the internal sprag device disengages the
pinion from the starter shaft to protect the starter armature from being
over speeded and destroyed. The pinion gear then freely spins on the
armature shaft until the driver disengages the starter. When the sprag
wears out, it does not reliably connect the pinion gear to the starter
output shaft in the cranking direction.
To test the overrunning clutch action the pinion should turn freely in the
overrunning direction and must not slip in the cranking direction. You can
check this out with your fingers. Even if the clutch seems to be working
properly, I recommend replacing it if is old and the pinion gear teeth
appear to be worn. Also, check that the spring immediately behind the
clutch assembly is in good condition. If this spring is weak or broken, the
pinion gear will not be pushed far enough to engage it with the flywheel
teeth.
The Overrunning Clutch assembly is retained on the armature shaft with a
snap ring sandwiched between a thrust collar (in front) and a retainer ring
on the back side. Refer to a Chevrolet sedan shop manual to instruct you on
how to remove and reinstall the snap ring so that a new Overrunning Clutch
can be installed.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Loose Starter
bolts - the bolts would have to be VERY loose to cause the starter to not
even try to mesh with the flywheel
Bad Bendix linkage - Possibly. This, however, is a very simple linkage
- i've never seen it fail. If so check the pivot pin. if it's missing
or not.
Bad Bendix Gear - Probably. Its a common problem - for the Bendix (not
the solenoid) spring to fail. This will cause the starter gear to "not
return" to the start position, thus not engage the flywheel when the
starter kicks.
If this is the problem - repeated
attempts to start the engine will eventually engage the flywheel because
the starter/Bendix shaft is threaded such that a sudden spin of the
starter will thrust the gear into the flywheel
Bad flywheel ring gear - Again possibly but not probably. If the ring
gear is bad - repeated attempts will not cause the starter to engage.
You have to bump the engine to a different flywheel position like you
describe.
I have attached a photo exposing the Bendix assembly. Note the spring
between the solenoid wishbone yoke and the starter gear. This is the
spring that fails and causes the starter gear to fail to engage the
flywheel, You can also see the thread on the starter drive shaft that
causes the gear to retract when spun by the flywheel when the engine
starts.
**********
02/24/2022
Is there a site where I can find some back issues
of the club magazine? I used to find some on EBAY, now I can’t find
any. Thanks Steve
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
This should be easy. Join SACC, then order all back issues available
from our new National Editor Alan Blay.
Bill Huffman
*Joining is easy! On our website simply click on "Online New Member
Application".
**********
02/08/2022
Looking for a qualified mechanic to service my 54 Corvette.
I live in downtown Dallas. The car will need to be trailered.
Contact information.
Anthony
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: (*Note: Please be aware of the
disclaimer above). DMS Corvette Shop in Garland. 972-494-6900. I own a
54 and he's the only mechanic I'll allow near it except myself.
PS:
highly recommend association with the local chapter of the solid axle club.
Wealth of knowledge and support.
**********
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, Past Club Secretary:
Hi Anthony, (I assume you have a stove-bolt 6)
I do not have a recommend in downtown Dallas, but I do have
a recommends on oil!
Use a 30W conventional oil, not 10/30W oil. Add "ZINC" to the oil,
(ZDDP available in auto stores). The reason is; In the late 90's they
reduced zinc out of the oil (because every car had roller cams) and tappets
were obsolete.
Enjoy your "6",
Bruce Fuhrman
01/20/2022
Hello,
I am trying to figure out if this tach drive unit is a gm part or a repro? If it
is a real gm part can you give me an idea of it'svalue? It cam as extra parts
with a 1958 that I bought in 1992. Mike
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: This appears to be a GM unit.
The markings are different than the unit on my 58 but I don't think that is
significant. You can purchase new drive units for approximately $110.00
**********
12/24/2021
Hello,
Is there an easy way to remove each of the cables from the
rear of the dash cluster (to twist off the knurled nuts)?
The way I've tried it get at them is to reach over the steering
shaft, but I need baby hands and fingers to grasp the nuts
Is there a better and easier way to reach them without dropping
the steering shaft?
Thank you
58 Newbee
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Rex. I own a 1960 and two 1962's, and I have been under there lots of
times, although it is harder now that I am 80. Lie on the floor on your
back with a light and reach up with your right hand and loosen the nuts with
your thumb and fore finger. I do this when I need to lubricate the cables.
If this doesn't work for you, then you will have to remove the instrument
housing, which is lots of trouble. To do this refer to page 1-6 in the
Corvette Servicing Guide, Chevrolet publication ST-12. This is the official
Chevrolet shop manual for C-1 Corvettes and is available as a reprint from
all of the major Corvette parts suppliers. This is a "must have" for C-1
Corvette owners who work on their own cars. You can't drop the steering
column enough to do much good.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/04/2021
Subject: 1958 corvette stock 283 cu in, 290 hp
Hi all, I’m looking for a approx. 600cfm carb to install on my stock
manifold. Is there a good carb out there that won’t need an adapter plate
for this application? Cannot seem to find a good rebuilt/rebuildable stock
carb. I’m concerned about height/clearance with hood. I had a 600 Holley
with adapter and had hood clearance issues when airfilter was installed.....
Jack
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jack: You say that you have a stock 283, 290 hp engine in your 1958, and
you are looking for a 600 cfm carburetor to go on this engine. This engine
came with fuel injection, not a 600 cfm carburetor, The only engine in 1958
with a single four barrel was the 230 hp engine with a cast iron intake
manifold. The 245 hp and 270 hp engines had dual Carter carburetors. This
arrangement was continued through 1961, and became 250 hp in 1962. All
these single four barrel engines came with a Carter model WCFB carburetor.
Do you have the 230 hp intake manifold that will fit a WCFB Carburetor on
your engine? The Carter WCFB carburetors once were very plentiful, but now
can cost over $900 rebuilt to NCRS judging standards, which you don't need.
You should be able to find a WCFB carburetor online. Corvette Central
offers a rebuilding service.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/1/2021
I
have a question about 57 Corvette cross member bolts and some others on the car.
The Frame was painted separate from the cross member, as I understand it, and
thus some of the cross members were painted a more shiny color than the frame
and was assembled to the frame as it went along. With that being said how
would the bolts have been painted that hold it on to the frame? Second
there are several parts that were assembled to the frame after it was painted
like the axle bumpers rear springs just to mention a few. So were all
these bolts painted or not or just some of them and where would I person find a
list of what was and wasn’t painted.
Thanks a lot for your help.
Kermit
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I assume this question is raised in anticipation of NCRS judging.
NCRS flight judging does not judge those parts. They do not raise the car
and it is too low for most people to get under to see the parts.
I painted my bolts black to go with the cross member and for protection.
If it is related to Bow Tie judging, those cars are placed on a lift so the
complete underside of the car can be inspected for originality. As part of
that process judges compare patina of various parts and something that has
been restored/painted will stand out.
If the car is that original/unmolested I would leave it alone.
Verle
**********
11/26/2021
I am a UK member looking for a
wiper motor cable complete with ratio box , my old cable is approximately
32.5 inches in length, please could you tell me if this item is available
and a part number if possible and contact details where I may be able to
source this part.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Malcolm: Corvette Central sells rebuilt left and right hand windshield
wiper transmissions, complete with cables. The cost is $109 each side plus
a $100 core charge and shipping. They also used to provide a rebuilding
service. Their catalog numbers are 651080L and R. They also offer a
complete wiper upgrade kit that includes everything needed including the
motor. The car may have to be modified to install it.
Larry Pearson
**********
11/23/2021
I have a 57 I am doing. Are the bolts that hold the
Front Cross Member and several other parts like the motor mounts painted.
I have never seen a none restored car and know that some of the cross members
were painted gloss and some weren’t so they were installed after the frame was
painted thus my question about the bolts. Also stuff like the rear spring
mounts to the fame and shackle bolts and nuts just things like that because they
were installed after the frame was painted I think or were they? You know
upper/lower A arm bushings and things of that nature that was put on after the
frame paint. I am pretty sure the grease zerks were not painted because I
am old enough to remember that as I worked in a gas station and greased them.
Got any ideas?
Thanks,
Kermit
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Kermit: If you are restoring your car for NCRS Judging, obtain a copy of
the NCRS Judging Guidelines for your year car and follow what they say. If
not, I have made a study of the chassis painting over the years, but not as
early as 1957. I have a collection of photos taken by Motor Trend when they
road tested a new fuel injected 1961 Corvette. They put it on a grease rack
and completely photographed the chassis front to back. Also, there is a
book "Birthplace of Legends" that has assembly line photos taken over the
years at the St. Louis assembly plant. Here is what I have come to believe.
The frames were manufactured for Chevrolet by an outside supplier (I forgot
the name) and were dip painted with gloss chassis black paint before
shipment to the St. Louis assembly plant. There is a red stencil, upside
down, on the frame just under the driver's seat that gives a part number
with a manufacturing batch number after it and a manufacturing date below
it. Chassis black paint is identical to radiator paint, and is an
inexpensive black tar like coating that is solvent based. It dries but does
not cure like enamels, and is easily removed with any petroleum based
solvent like mineral spirits and lacquer thinner. Next the front and rear
suspensions were installed, the exhaust system, the brake system including
the master cylinder (sticking up in the air by the vertical brake line), the
fuel lines, and then, finally the engine/transmission and drive shaft. Just
before the body installation, everything got spray painted with chassis
black paint (except the engine): The front and rear suspensions (including
zerk fittings), the brake drums and backing plates and rubber brake hoses,
the exhaust system including the mufflers, the left side of the master
cylinder and its brake line, the drive shaft, the cast iron transmissions (3
and 4, speed and PG) with black overspray on the bell housing and bottom
clutch cover. The frame was not purposely re-painted, but parts of it
obviously did. The result wasn't pretty, and it wasn't meant to be. They
wanted to rust proof the entire chassis before the body got installed. I
have pictures to prove all of this.
As far as the front engine mounting to the frame goes, in the beginning it
was done as shown in the factory Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM). The
verticals were bolted to the frame and when the engine was installed, the
rubber engine mounts were set in place with the steel tube and the engine
assembly with the gloss orange painted cross member was set on the rubber
mounts and bolted with the lock nut thick flat washer, and radio ground
strap on top. The lock nut, the flat washer and the ground strap have no
orange paint on them. This is how your 1957 was done.
Sometime after 1957, this all changed. The AIM never got updated to show
this. My un-restored 1960 was done as described here. The verticals, the
rubber engine mounts radio ground strap and the cross member got assembled
in some sort of fixture. This was probably done at the St Louis plant, but
could have been done at Flint Engine. This entire assembly got installed
on the engine. Just before the engine got painted, they masked off the
verticals and the rubber engine mounts. Then everything else got painted
orange, including the lock nut, the large flat washer and the end of the
radio ground strap.
This gives you something to think about . Again, if NCRS is going to judge
your car, restore it like they say. In my experience, NCRS and I do not
agree on a lot of things. The judging people at NCRS are very stubborn and
will not correct their publications when proven wrong. But I can prove what
I believe. They can't.
Larry Pearson
**********
10/30/2021
Hello,
>
>
> I have a 62 corvette, 300 hp with a t-10 4 speed
trans. Recently, it started to grind slightly when I shift from 1st to 2nd.
After the car warms up it doesn’t do it. What do you suggest? I’m thinking to
change the oil to see if that will fix it. What transmission oil do you
recommend?
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chuck: The proper lubricant for your transmission is 90 weight gear oil.
This is available in quart bottles at all auto parts stores. But I don't
think that the gear oil is the cause of your transmission grinding.
Check your clutch linkage adjustment. There should be about one inch free
pedal in your clutch pedal before the clutch linkage starts to engage the
clutch throughout bearing. If this free travel is much in excess of one
inch, depressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor may not cause the
clutch disc to fully disengage from the flywheel and this may cause a
grinding sound when attempting to shift into gear. But if this were the
case, there would be grinding when shifting to all of the gears. Clutch
free travel adjustment instructions are found on page 6R-3 in GM's shop
manual for all C-1's, Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12.
Reprints of this manual are available from all the major Corvette parts
suppliers.
Your transmission gearshift linkage may need adjustment for second gear
engagement. The adjustment procedure is, unfortunately, not found in the
ST-12 shop manual. It is found in the 1961 Chevrolet Passenger Car Shop
Manual on page 12-29. The 1-2 shift rod is the long one going to the front
shift lever on the outside of the T-10 transmission. With the shifter in
the second gear position, make sure that the the transmission lever for 1-2
is all the way forward.
If none of this solves your problem, your transmission may need servicing.
Second gear is a particular problem with the T-10 transmission. With heavy
use, the second gear synchronizers fail to keep second gear engaged, and it
will come out of gear, particularily when lifting off the gas pedal. I
seldom use second gear in my three C-1's. If you look at the gear ratios,
the third gear ratio is close to second gear ratio in the 3-speed
transmission. So why bother using second gear? I shift directly from first
to third. I only use second when stuck in traffic.
Larry Pearson
**********
10/25/2021
Attached is a photo of the hubcaps that were on the '54
Corvette that I recently purchased and I know they are not Corvette hubcaps but
wondered if anyone can identify the year, make and model that these were
originally used on? I am guessing a 50's vintage Chevrolet? Thanks for your
help, John

From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Photos of the first Corvettes off
the production line in 53 exhibit a hubcap very close to that in your photo.
They are believed to be that of a 53 Bel Air. Investigate passenger car (Bel
Air) caps around your year. I have attached an article from "The Real Corvette
(pg29)" FYI.

**********
I’m in the process of restoring my 1961 Corvette as original as possible. I
have a restored set of original Seatbelt Hambones which are silver cadmium
coated. The vehicle is black with silver coves and I was wondering if you
know what color and finish the Hambones should be. I know they do get some
over spray on them when painting the body.
Can you please help me out?
Regards
Dave
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dave: I assume that you are referring to the two outboard seat belt support
assemblies that attach with four bolts to a reinforcement riveted to the
floor pan under the car. They were in place when the exterior was painted,
and you can expect at least some exterior overspray to be on them. They
could actually be completely painted black, but this was not deliberately
done, because these supports were not visible with the seats in place. If
you are having your car judged by NCRS, don't worry about the appearance
because the judges can't see them.
Larry Pearson
**********
Members,
Does anyone know where I can buy touchup paint for my 1958 sonwcrest
white Corvette?
Thanks.
Ed
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Where are you located? I
recently purchased 58 Charcoal acrylic lacquer from English Color in Plano,
Texas. They had to import it from their shop in Houston - but they still
supplied it.
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I buy from Paintscratch.com
I use Venetian Red in 1 oz and spray cans.
Joe
**********
09/21/2
I ordered a convertible top
front right latch (for my ’61) in July and was told in August that it
was backordered, and last week I was told the order was cancelled as
they could not get the part from the manufacturer. Every place I look it
seems that they are now out of stock even though they are still
advertised in most catalogues. Any suggestions on where to go to
get one?
Chris
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chris: Try Sully's Tops, in Fresno California. They reproduce the entire
top frame and sell individual parts. Call 559.291.8677, 800.451.8680,
http://www.sullystops.com.
Paragon sells used parts.
Larry Pearson
**********
09/14/2021
Greetings!
I have a 54 Corvette restomod that I have owned for about 15 years. I have
a 350 sbc in it, although from most perspectives it looks original until
the hood is opened. The original sway bar is notched, which prevents me
from installing a larger and much-needed radiator fan. Can you offer me a
resource to find a sway bar (perhaps straight or notched in the other
direction)/that will fulfill my need? I’ll be most grateful.
I didn’t know this club existed (silly me,). I just joined.
Thanks much!
Richard
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Richard: You don't say what type of radiator fan you are using. If
you are using a water pump mounted fan, the notched (forward) sway bar
should not be a problem. It would offer more fan clearance than a
straight sway bar would. But if you are using an electric fan mounted
on the radiator, then the forward notch would be a problem. The forward
notched sway bar was necessary due to the considerable length of the six
cylinder engine. When the small block V-8 was introduced, the sway bars
were made straight, because this engine is much shorter than the six.
It is interesting to note that the better heat rejection of the V-8 (due
to the much shorter path from the exhaust valve to the exhaust port with
the new V-8 cylinder head design, resulting in less exhaust heat being
transferred to the coolant) allowed Chevrolet to use a smaller radiator
for the V-8 in sedans. The V-8 also weighed less then the six, and cost
less to manufacture. In 1955, I am told that it cost Chevrolet about
$65 to manufacture a 265 V-8 engine, exclusive of overhead costs. They
should have charged less for the V-8 than the six, but they didn't,
In answer to your question, any 1956-62 sway bar is straight. They
should be easy to acquire.
Larry Pearson
**********
Hi, I have a 61 Corvette 283 Engine w/ DUAL
Quads 245 HP. What type of gas should I use in this engine.
I have been running a premium fuel w/ Lucas Octane Booster.
Can I switch to 87 Octane and run Octane Booster ?
Or is there anything better that you can recommend.
Thanks,
Glenn
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Glenn,
I'm going
to assume you mean you are using unleaded Premium 93 Octane 10% ethanol
gasoline with octane booster in your car.
Around
home, I use 100% recreational 90 octane unleaded gasoline in my 1960 230HP
283 that has with same compression ratio as yours and it runs fine.
Your
car's components were not designed to deal with the corrosive effects of
ethanol long term.
On long
trips like the recent convention trip, I had to use the Premium 93 gas and
filled up on the good stuff when we got home.
However,
if if your engine has not had hardened valve seats installed in the stock
heads, you probably need to add lead substitute as well.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glenn: I own a 1960 Corvette with the base 230 hp engine, and it is
completely original and has never been rebuilt. This is the exact same
engine as the 245 hp engine, except that it has a single 4 barrel
carburetor. Both engines have a 10.5 compression ratio. I live in
California, which has the worst gasoline in the country. Premium is 91
octane and $5.00+ per gallon. My 60 runs just fine with the 91 octane
gasoline and no octane booster. Occasionally I add a lead substitute to
protect the valve seats, but I don't think that this is necessary for
the low performance engines.
If your engine is original or has been rebuilt to original specs and is
properly timed, you should have no problem using 91 or better octane
pump gasoline. If it pings when driven hard, retard the timing. I have
a 62 with 11.25 compression and have had no luck with octane boosters.
I have found that 1/2 quart of lead additive per 10 gallons of premium
boosts the 91 octane to an acceptable level for this engine. Lead
additive is available on the internet.
Larry Pearson
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: You did not say whether your motor
runs in a manner that it needs octane booster. That is important to the
question. The stock configuration was 9.5 compression with flat top
pistons. The combustion chambers were small on the stock heads and 0.016"
head gaskets were used. Do you know whether the configuration is stock or
was the motor rebuilt with 0.030 or thicker composite head gaskets?
If you are getting pinging during acceleration, have you backed off on
the timing?
We need more information and I am inclined to say your motor does not
need anything special in the fuel.
With ethanol additive gasoline, I would use 1/2 oz. of ATF per gallon of
gasoline.
**********
08/29/2021
I had a tail light pigtail short out and now I have no taillights. Any quick
suggestions to look for?
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Probably a fused wire. Start at
the light switch and work your way back.
**********
08/21/2021
Tech Help,
September
2020 and April 2021 posts to your tech team and review of past posts were
a valuable source to remove and install the speedo and tach with newly greased
bearings on my 59.
Now I think the fuel pump failed.
Paragon no longer stocks the AC 4656 fuel pump as mentioned on this thread.
It seems it is no longer produced. Does anyone have a source that
still has one. I am leery about purchasing a reconditioned original on EBay.
Anyone have experience with rebuilding these pump?
Eric
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Eric: You say that you "think" that your fuel pump has failed. Did you
test it? Most vacuum gauges will test fuel pump pressure. Also, you can
disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor, hook a rubber hose to it and run
the hose to a can or large bottle, start the engine (pouring gas down the
carburetor if there is no gas in the carburetor) and see if the pump pumps
gas into the bottle. If it does, your pump is probably good.
Your carburetor either has a built in fuel filter or an external fuel
filter. Remove the external filter or the bronze internal filter element
and try to blow through it. If it is plugged up, that is the problem and
replace the element.
If you need to rebuild or replace your old pump, Corvette Central sells
rebuilt 4656 pumps or rebuild kits. The Chevrolet passenger car shop manual
for your year tells you exactly how to rebuild your pump from a rebuild
kit. If you decide to rebuild your old pump, do not attempt to
replace the rocker arm pivot shaft. The ends are staked to keep the shaft
in place, and it will be very difficult for you to properly stake the ends
of the replacement shaft. I have not encountered a shaft so worn that it
needs replacement.
Larry Pearson

From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Also, You can get the car to run for
long enough by pouring gas into the area where the metering rods are. Then
start the car and see if there is any flow from the disconnected fuel line.
**********
08/16/2021
In sorting out parts I need for the
restoration of a '54 I recently purchased (stored for over thirty years), I
have a seat frame and adjusting rails for the driver's seat but nothing but a
seat bottom and backrest for the passenger seat. Doesn't the passenger seat
require a similar frame? I was told the passenger seat was fixed (no adjusters)
how does it attach? Is the attached drawing for a '54 drivers seat?
Thanks, John
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The passenger seat on a 54 is not
mounted to a frame. The spring sets (bottom and back) mount directly to the
floor and bulkhead of the car itself. I don't know of anywhere the brackets
(more like clips) are shown. If you can't find any references to help you - I
can take a photo of mine and send it to you. Good luck - John
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, past club Secretary:
Your are right, the passenger seat is
not adjustable. You are missing the anchor plate (front/rear)
I suggest you make from steel? The bolts come from the underside.
Good luck,
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
07/23/2021
Rebuilding 62. All I currently have is a green and yellow
wire that was hooked to the old neutral safety switch. From
what I am reading, I should have two purple wires. I took
the tape off the wiring and see that the yellow wire
actually is one of the purple wires which leaves now with a
green and purple (yellow). I cannot find anything listing
on the wiring diagram for the NSS so am at a lost where or
how this is supposed to be connected except it looks like it
should go to something on.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Deb: The 1962 Aluminum Powerglide transmission is option (RPO) 313. The
1962 Aluminum Powerglide is a completely new transmission that replaces the
cast iron Powerglide used in 1961 and earlier Corvettes. To find out how
the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) mounts and how the wiring harness is routed,
you need to purchase a copy of the 1962 Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual
(AIM), which is available from all the major Corvette parts suppliers. The
RPO 313 section is seven pages long and shows all about the installation of
the NSS, but it does not explain or show how the NSS wiring harness connects
into the car wiring system. The purpose of the NSS is to prevent the
starter from activating unless the transmission is in Park. It somehow
connects in series with the purple wire in the car's wiring harness that
activates the starter solenoid. It appears in the passenger car shop manual
that there is some kind of adapter on the back of the starter solenoid that
the NSS wiring harness connects into. Contact Lectric Limited at
708.563.0400 to see if they can help you with the NSS wiring harness. They
reproduce all the wiring harnesses for your car.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/15/2021
I recently became a member and received my member number
today.
I have enjoyed reading the great advice in the technical help.
I tried a search to see if my question was already answered
previously to avoid asking the same question over again, but was
unable to find anything.
I am wondering if anyone has advice on installing the radio antenna
on a 1961.
A former owner replaced the original antenna with an antenna from
some other vehicle. I recently purchased a correct antenna and
reviewed the instructions in the 1961 service manual. Though it
seems straight forward, the part I am finding a bit tricky is making
sure that the bezel that sits on top of the fender is in the correct
position. When I tighten the cap, and check the antenna with a
level, it is not straight up and down. Perhaps it is not supposed
to be straight up and down. I do not know since the car did not
have the correct antenna before I changed it. Another concern is
that when I tighten the cap, I would think that it should contact
the bezel evenly all around, but in my case it makes full contact on
one side, but has a very, very small gap on the opposite side. I
have tried refitting it a number of times, but still come up with
the very small gap on one side. From a distance, it all looks
great, but if I could find out how to make it even better, I would
appreciate it.
Thank you for taking the time to consider my question.
Bruce
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Bruce,
Welcome
to SACC!
If you
bought the whole antenna kit, there should have been a strap/clamp that
attaches the lower body of the antenna to the wheel well inside the trunk.
This
attachment determines the antenna angle coming out the top of the rear
fender. The chromed bezel just covers a big ugly rubber gasket sealing water
out of the trunk.
You, as a
guy who really cares, are putting far more thought into its alignment than
the assembly operator who originally installed it in 1961.
Relax and
enjoy your car because none of them were born perfect.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bruce: You mention a 1961 service manual. I have never heard of such a
thing, except for the passenger cars. The Chevrolet Corvette Servicing
Guide, publication ST-12 is the only official shop manual that Chevrolet
produced for the C1 Corvettes, and it attempts to cover the entire
1953-1962 production run. It is a "must have" for all C1 Corvette
owners who work on their cars. If you don't have this manual, it is
available as a reprint from all Corvette parts suppliers. The radio
antenna installation is covered on page 13-4. Figure 3. Although this
figure is supposed to apply to all C1 Corvettes, it actually is
specifically for the 1961-62 Corvettes, which is exactly what you are
looking for.
You don't say where you got this "correct" antenna. What you have may
actually be for a 1956-60 Corvette, which installs through a rounded
fender top rather than the rather flat sloped fender top of the 1961-62
Corvettes. The 1956 through 1960 antenna assembly is slightly longer
than the 1961-61 because of the longer height in the trunk compartment,
but it might work in your 1961 trunk. Corvette Central sells the fender
top hardware if you have the earlier setup.
I assume that your car originally had a radio installed by the factory
and, therefore, that the hole in the fender top is in the correct
location so everything in the trunk properly lines up. All vertical
mast antennas need a ground plane to work properly. On metal car
bodies, the car body is the ground plane. On the Corvette, the frame is
used as the ground plane, and this connection is provided by a copper
strap that connects the antenna housing to a bolt accessed through an
access cover in the trunk that electrically connects to the frame, as
shown in Figure 3. Also the frame must be grounded to the engine block
with the two heavy copper ground straps that connect the frame to the
engine mounting bracket shown in Figure 6 on page 13-7. On Corvettes,
the engine block is the ground point for all electrical systems on the
car.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/06/2021
Good Afternoon :
I acquired a 1954 corvette 10 years ago. The vehicle did not have the
original engine or transmission.
After many years of searching. I found
an original 54 corvette engine and transmission. I had the engine and
transmission rebuilt.
The question that I am asking is the timing of the
engine. I have the beebee on the flyweight in line with the pointer.
The distributor rotor on number 1 cylinder on the cap. When I crank the
engine over and check the to see if the distributor rotor in on number 1
again it seems the it is off from the original setting.
Am I doing something wrong.?
Your help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you
Scott
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, Past Secretary: Hi Scott,
Is the engine running? If not,
there is something wrong. Be sure the compression is #1 and not exhaust.
Do this by taking the sparkplugs out and checking the compression in #1.
It may be the installed the distributor off by a gear?
If running- I had a '54 and it had the original engine &
transmission. During a transmission o'haul they could not locate the
proper flywheel (the teeth were worn out) by the starter, so they
reversed it! It worked out, BUT, I lost the timing mark! I
simply used a Dwell meter to set the points and drove the car till
there was no "ping" and used the Dwell meter again when replacing
the points. The proper dwell is 40.5-47.5 degrees, and the timing is
on the beebee.
Good luck,
Bruce Fuhrman
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
1- Rotate the engine until the timing pointer lines up with the BB or circle
on the
flywheel.
2- Adjust the points for proper dwell. Rotate the distributor until the
points are on a high point of the distributor cam. Adjust the points
for a 0.16 gap (establishes an approximate setting)
3- Connect a ohm meter between the points feed to the coil and ground
(disconnect from the coil). When the points are closed the ohm meter
should read 0 ohms. Rotate the distributor until the points just open
(ohm meter will jump to MAX ohms). Lock down the Distributor.
4-
Note where the distributor rotor is pointing - it should be pointing to
No.1 plug terminal.
5- If you need to adjust the dwell you will have to re-adjust the
timing.
Addendum to above answer.....
You are not looking for where the distributor rotor aligns with No.1 -
you are looking for where the points break associated with No.1
**********
06/26/2021
HELLO EVERYONE, I am
putting the finishing touches on my 1960 corvette and I realized I
did not know what the orientation of the door lock knobs should be.
I looked at a number of C1s on the internet but saw multiple
orientations. So, in the unlocked position where should the
lock “point”; to the right, down,??? Thank you for your time.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Years ago, I had the good fortune to be able to purchase 8x10 glossy B&W
prints of photos that Petersen Publishing took of new Corvettes they did
road tests on for 1959, 1961 and 1962. Most of these were not used in the
magazine articles. They all show the position to be straight down. If you
are having NCRS judge your car, position them the way they tell you to in
their judging manual, or they will make deductions. NCRS is "always"
right. Years ago, I gave up trying to get them to fix their mistakes.
Larry Pearson
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I tried my in several positions and picked the position that worked best for
me.
As Larry said, if you are having it judged, do it like their manual says.
Verle
**********
06/25/2021
Hello folks. My ’58 is a 245hp and T-10 4-speed setup.
Normally, shifting is smooth and secure. But, on very rare occasions the
shifter linkages somehow get locked up (happened at parking-type low speed,
probably going to reverse but really don’t remember). The immediate
correction is crawling under (not always easy) and jiggling linkages. I’ve
had this car 20 years; I think it happened twice, but the first time may
have been 60 years ago with my first ’58.
My question is – any clues as to what to look, for to avoid this
kind of lock-up? Thanks, Al
This photo was taken under car in 2019 when it had locked-up – hit or miss
with cam at arm’s length!
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Al,
I assume
you have a stock '58 shifter with the spring as a detent to separate 1st &
reverse shift action. In all the efforts to steer/ shift/ brake and the 360
visuals related to having no RH rear view mirror, it gets pretty busy for us
in the drivers seat.
After 63
years, I'll bet that shifter spring isn't as rigorous in its lock-out
function as it used to be, allowing both 1st & reverse to try to engage at
the same time.
Hello
shifter lock-up.
Either
refurb or replace the spring, buy another '57-'58 stock shifter or you might
want to upgrade to the '59-'62 4 speed shifter w/ reverse lock-out handle.
It just
can't shift into reverse unless you actively want it to & pull the T-handle.
If you
have noticed linkage rattle, it might help to replace the bent cotter keys
with the correct GM G-clip.
Regards,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I have experienced shifter lockup in the past. On mine the main problem was
it was worn out.
I rebuilt it with new bushings and shims to reduce/eliminate the slop in the
shift levers.
It may also be wear in the transmission side plate, detent spring, detent
balls, etc.
Last but not least, the shifter needs to be adjusted so the shift levers are
properly aligned. Misalignment can potentially cause the problem.
Many years ago I was with a friend in his 62 late one rainy night when the
shifter got locked up in one gear. We found a closed gas station with a pay
phone booth with light on. We jacked up the driver side of the car and I
slid under the car with water running on the pavement to pull the shift rod
to get it in neutral. While I was under the car a police car pulled up and
wanted to know what we were doing. After an explanation he asked a few more
questions and left, while giving us a suspicious look. My friend never did
adjust the shifter and had lock up problems more than once. I refused to get
under it after the first time.
Verle
**********
06/22/2021
I'm restoring my 60 vette. I noticed something very odd and no one has a
good answer. The bulk head between the trunk and the gas tank area is
missing . It was cut out very neatly. It appears it was once part of
the body. Why in the world would someone do that?? Any help will be
greatly appreciated. Thanks Bob
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Robert: I own a 1960 and two 62's, and the differences in the trunk storage
between the two models is very significant. The capacity of the 1960 and
earlier Corvettes trunks is quite small compared with the 61 and 62 models.
I suspect that a prior owner was looking for a way to get more trunk space
that was accessible from the trunk area and cut this panel out to easily
access the additional storage area that is there where the soft top goes.
Of course, if the car has a soft top, it must be in the up position to free
up the space. If your car has a hard top only, access to the soft top
storage area is not possible with the hard top in place. I have used the
soft top storage area for additional storage during long trips with my cars.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/18/2021
Does anyone make king pin
kit with needle bearing instead of bushing.
Also is a good thing to do ?
Also on differential fill plug leaks ? Install new plug with gasket, someone
total me to use copper gasket .
Please advise.
Regards,
Glenn
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glenn: I finally got around to see if anyone manufacturers or sells a
needle bearing king pin kit, and found nothing. If it was available,
Corvette Central would have it, and they don't. The bushings will last
longer than you will, as long as you grease them. The factory recommends a
1000 mile interval for greasing all 22 grease fittings on your car's front
suspension. This is unreasonable, and I feel that you can safely go to a
2000 mile interval. Be sure to grease all four inner fittings on the upper
A-arms. They are hard to see and access, but if you ignore them, the
bushings will fail and are very difficult to replace.
The differential fill plug uses a leather gasket. If you replace it and it
still leaks, wrap the plug threads with Teflon tape and that should fix the
leak.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/17/2021
I am Chris and I have a ’61. Thank you Verle for your suggestion with my
tail light issue. Still working on it. My fuel gauge reads beyond full and
does not change. I heard from someone that it might mean the gauge is not
grounded. Any thoughts on how to check out my gauge? Second question, what
additive, if any, should I put in my tank when I fill up. I have put 93 octane
in it so far. It is the original 283 engine.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
The fuel sending unit in the tank has a wire that should be attached to the
frame to ground it. Could be a problem on either end of the wire. Make sure
the frame connection is not rusted. Or, it could be a problem with the
sending unit its self.
The following was copied from another source and explains how to check the
fuel gauge.
"The
following information is reprinted with the permission of Mr. Fred Aldrich,
a.k.a. The
Chevelle Engineer.
Data presented are the same from his popular website with only minor changes
to spelling and overall format. Mr. Aldrich passed away in 2011 and
graciously allowed me to use some information from this website before his
passing.
1
) Locate
the fuel sender feed wire near the fuel tank. You're looking for a single
tan colored wire. With the tan wire disconnected at the fuel tank, the fuel
gauge should read past full with the ignition on. Wait a few moments as some
fuel gauges take a long time to respond. Touch the tan wire from the body to
any convenient ground and the gauge should read empty. If not, you have a
wiring problem or a bad gauge.
2) If the gauge responds correctly, the gauge
and wiring are OK. Next use a multi-meter to measure resistance to
ground of the sender wire connection on the top of the fuel sender
or the tan wire from the top of the fuel tank. Measurements should
track the fuel in tank.
Full - 84-88 ohms
Half - 40 ohms,
give or take
Empty - 0-2 ohms
If this doesn't check, then
sender or wiring on top of the tank is bad or the sender not
adequately grounded. Senders are typically grounded by a black wire
which is welded to the sender and attached to the body with a sheet
metal screw.
3) If the sender checks OK but
gauge and wiring don't, clean the connections, reconnect the sender
wiring and separate the Fisher connector (located just outboard of
the fuse block under the dash). The gauge should then read past
full. Ground the tan wire in the dash side of the Fisher connector
and the gauge should read empty. If not, you probably have a bad
gauge or possibly a dash wiring problem. Go to Step 5.
4) If the gauge checks OK, then make the same
resistance checks to the tan wire in the body side of the Fisher
connector. If the readings are different than those at the sender,
body wiring has a problem and requires detailed inspection. If they
look OK, then the Fisher connector is probably dirty.
5) Clean and reconnect Fisher connector, pull the
connector off the back of the gauge and make the same resistance
checks to the tan wire. If they don't check, you have a dash wiring
problem. If they check OK, your gauge is bad. Gauges can be
bench-checked but this is best left to a specialist.
Note: As noted at the beginning of the page, Mr. Aldrich passed
away in 2011 and graciously allowed me to use some information from
this website before his passing.
Ref: your question about gasoline and additives:
What horsepower engine do you have? If
high performance, does it have the domed pistons for the higher
compression?
For the lower horsepower engines you can safely run 87 octane. I prefer to
use alcohol free gas when I can find it. No additive.
Same thing on high performance engine, use 91 or 93 octane, no additives and
no alcohol.
Alcohol has less power than gasoline. 10% alcohol will reduce gas mileage
and horsepower.
Gasoline has a heat value of 20,400 BTUs while ethanol has a heat value of
12,800 BTUs. This means when compared to gasoline, ethanol will have only 60
percent of the heat value of gasoline
They way racers go faster with alcohol is to build the engine with high
compression ratio and increase the mixture to 9.0 instead of the 14.7 for
gasoline so they are burning a lot more alcohol to make more horsepower.
This requires a special carburetor or other induction system to handle the
volume.
Verle
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chris: On the subject of your tail light problem, the 1961 and 1962
Corvettes had their tail lights located low in the trunk where the
sockets could be damaged by trunk items coming in contact with them. In
1962, light gray plastic protective cones were placed over the four tail
light plugs to protect them from damage. These protective cones are
reproduced, and I recommend that you purchase a set for your 1961.
As to the damage that can occur to the in trunk part of the tail lamp
assembly, each connector plugs into the tail light assembly and is
retained by two plastic pins molded in to the sides of the plug-in
socket. If one of these gets broken off, the socket plug will become
cocked in such a way that one of the two spring loaded contacts may not
properly contact one of the bulb contacts. In the worst case, the
spring loaded contact may contact the grounded lamp housing, resulting
in a blown fuse. A broken off pin can be repaired without replacing the
plug assembly. You can drill a hole in the socket where the pin is
missing and fabricate a plastic pin out of a plastic rod obtainable from
hobby stores and use JB Weld to secure it in place. Drill the hole
slightly smaller than the plastic rod diameter to make a tight fit prior
to JB Welding it in place. You can even use a tooth pick.
The gas tank is grounded with a black 18 gauge wire that connects to the
tail light ground wire in the rear wiring harness. The engine block,
not the frame, is the ground source for all electrical system in your
car. If this black ground wire somehow is not there or is an open
circuit somewhere in the wiring harness, the proper way to ground the
gas tank is to run an 18 gauge or larger wire from one of the sender
screws down through the rocker panel area and up to the instrument
housing where you should attach it to one of the 1/4 inch screws that
attach the instrument housing to the metal structure, which is an
excellent ground point. All the electrical systems, the horns, the
lighting, clock, and the instruments (except the radio and wiper motor,
which have their own ground wires) connect to the engine block via a 12
gauge black with white stripe wire that connects to the driver's side
upper rear rocker arm screw. This ground wire must be in excellent
shape and well connected to the rocker arm cover screw, or nothing in
the car will operate properly, if at all.
When you finally get your gas gauge working properly using the original
black gas tank ground wire, you will likely note that the gas gauge
pointer moves to the right when the brakes are applied. This is a
result of a factory screw-up with the 1961 and 62 Corvettes. When they
added the two additional tail lights, they neglected to use a larger
ground return wire and stayed with the 18 gauge wire, which is
inadequate for all those lights and the gas tank sender. The resulting
electrical imbalance results in the gas tank pointer moving when the
brakes are applied. The only way to fix this is to run a separate
ground wire from the gas tank to the instrument housing as described
above.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/06/2021
I am Chris and I just joined the solid axle corvette club. I recently
purchased a 1961 Corvette. My original program was that the right blinker
worked great but when I selected the left blinker, the green arrow on my dash
came on but did not blink and the front white left blinker light came on but did
not blink. Same for the left rear lights. From a blog someone told me that I
likely needed to replace my turn signal flasher on my front driver’s side fuse
box. I found out from this blog where that fuse box was located….thank you very
much Larry!!! I bought the replacement flasher, installed it and it solved my
blinker and brake light problems which was very helpful, especially in Texas
since I have to get the car inspected before I can get my plates (I bought the
car from a dealer in Minnesota). However my new issue is that now the rear,
left inside tail light does not come on with the running lights. I had put a
new bulb in it and both filaments look fine. Any thoughts on my problem? Thank
you for any help.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Chris,
First thing, check to see if there is 12 volts in that socket. If you have
voltage, check to verify a good ground. The rear lights ground to the frame.
It could be a bad socket or a loose wire on the back of the socket.
Let us know what you find.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Check the position of your turn
signals. Make sure it is in the neutral position. These switches have a bad
habit of moving slightly to one side (usually left turn). It will not be enough
to cause the blinker to engage - but it will turn off that tail light.
**********
06/03/2021
Can you tell me where the fuse box is on a 1961 Corvette? I need to replace
the turn signal flasher.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chris: The fuse box is located on the firewall on the driver's side just in
front of the parking brake assembly. In order for the turn signals to work
properly, the parking light and tail light bulbs (all six) must be in
working order or it won't flash properly, or at all. The turn signal
flasher operates properly using the current draw from the bulbs. Also, the
turn signal switch must be in good working order. All the bulbs are two
filament bulbs. One filament, the skinnier one, works the running lights
when the headlights are on. The turn signals in the rear use the same
filaments, the thick ones, that the brake lights use. They work together in
the rear. When the brakes are applied, the brake light filaments are
interrupted for the turn signals.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/30/2021
54 vette choke knob
Any tricks to removing choke cables and knob from on a 1954 vette? I
plan to have the cables replaced. Thanks, Tex
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: No trick - Loosen cables
from the carbs, the knob attaches to the dash with a large nut on the
back of the dash, loosen the nut and slide the choke cable assembly out
of the carbs, firewall and dash.
**********
05/30/2021
G'day
I have just got a 1959 Corvette
The seats are loose, no holes in floor.
Questions
1/ Do you have any guidance where to locate the seats before drilling the
holes?
2/ Are the underbody plates mounted with the nut facing to ground?
If not do you need to cut hole for nut to fit into?
3/ Are the underbody plates bolted on the outside holes or riveted on?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mike
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Look at the assembly manual for how they
are mounted. For a 1957, it is sheet J2. The nut plates are installed from the
bottom, not in the car. The floor is flat where the nutplates are located.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
1. Below is a illustration of the 59 interior to help you locate your seats
properly
2. the mounting plates are oriented with the nuts down. See mounting
illustration
3. The plates should be riveted in place.
Good luck - John
Note: if you're having trouble locating your seat rails - slide the seat all
the say back on the rails, set the seat frame in the car against the rear
bulkhead.
This gives you a full range of adjustment. Make sure when slid
forward the seat (cushion) does not interfere with the transmission hump.
This is adjusted by the side to side location of the seat.


**********
05/27/2021
I’m redoing the front suspension on my 1960 (5034). My question is should I leave the original inner upper pivot shaft?
What I have read it is the most important part of the job. The new cap only goes on a few rotations and bogs down, the
old caps spin right on. What I can figure is it is a 3/4 by 11 can’t find a die to clean threads. Also read where you
can make the tool to thread new pivot shaft in with old shaft parts but see Paragon part number 10538 is a pivot shaft installer,
is that for this pivot shaft? I called their tech line and the guy was what does the catalog say, it doesn’t. Thanks

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Are the new caps the same thread pitch? Your description suggests wrong
thread pitch.
I cannot tell from the picture, are threads damaged? Are they rusty or
encrusted with dirt, etc?
You can clean threads with a wire brush without damaging them. If they are
damaged on the starting end I have cleaned large threads like that with a
triangle file and carefully working to make them match with the good
threads.
Verle
From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Examine the threads on the shaft and you should find there is wear. That is why
the new nuts do not fit. Understand how this works. As the suspension
compresses and the A arm moves, the end nuts rotate. If they are worn, it may
have play.
Getting the new upper inner shaft installed takes a lot of force. I stood
on a breaker bar to get the shaft to turn until equal amounts of thread are
showing on both sides. If the fitting weld lets go, a new one will need to
be welded in.
That installation tool is not useful. I have one that I did not use. I
used the lower outer shaft as a tool. The bushing and pivot bolt are the
same thread as the upper inner shaft. Put the bushing on the outer shaft
threads, screw the pivot bolt into the bushing until it contacts the end of
the shaft and you have a tool to screws the shaft in with.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: If the old caps (nuts) thread
on with no resistance but the new ones do - the new ones are of the wrong
thread. Don't force them. Have you purchased a new pivot shaft yet - try
the new nuts on the new shaft. If the new shaft threads are different, they
will not install in your original equipment.
**********
05/01/2021
In 1983 I purchased a garage-fire Corvette which was located just a few blocks
from Noland Adam's home in Albany, CA. I really got into rebuilding it at the
time, joining the Bay Area chapter of NCRS. My wife and I even hitched a few
rides down to the meetings with Noland. Here it is, 2021, and after a stock car
racing period, during which time the Vette just
sat,
I got back to work on my "driver" several years ago. The burned car left me an
almost original chassis, engine, T10, and the original hardtop. The car is about
95% complete but one thing that bugs me is that the hardtop lines up with all
connection points except for one on the deck lid, it's about 3/8" off and I can
see no way to make it fit. The body that we used came from a Corvette wrecking
yard in Yuba City, CA. Noland likely remembers it, although it's long gone
today.
So the body is not the one that the original hardtop was mated to. This could be
the main, or the problem. Does SACC have any ideas about this, or
heard of any fixes?. I can only think of plugging the hole and drilling a new
one. Anything would be appreciated. Thanks,
Joel

Fr
om: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Joel,
Measure the hole locations on both sides on the deck lid. I assume the
deck lid is lined up well with the body.
Hard tops will can and will distort if they are not stored with the
right supports.
I suspect you can move that part of the hard top over enough to get the
bolt in. Make sure the other bolt is not tight and try to push the
misaligned part into place. You push and hold while wife starts the bolt.
You may have to release the latches on the front to get the back started
then latch the front.
Don't ask how I learned about the hard top "warping".
Verle
**********
04/25/2012
Any thoughts on Needle bearings on King pins.
Found info on the web. [ A king pin kit with a Torrington needle bearing ]
Replaced Kings Pins years ago, that were frozen in place.
Had to Heat the H out of the spindle to get the old ones out of My
1960 C1, serial number 100
JOHN
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I installed needle bearings in my 57 about 2001. Over the last 20 years we
have driven it over 40,000 miles, most of that on long road tours with no
problems.
I have been diligent in greasing all 22 front suspension zerks about every
1000 miles including on road tours frequently at oil change shops. I have
always insisted in going into the pit with the worker so I could point out
all the zerks.
Verle
**********
04/14/2021
Hi,
I am I the process of fixing my car. I could really use
some help applying the dash pad. Any suggests or someone who knows how to do
this?
Frank
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Corvette Central and Al Knoch
Interiors offer DVDs that show how to do this. There are also U-Tube videos
available, if you search C1 Dashpad Installation
**********
04/08/2021
In
September
2020, your officers answered some questions about speedometer
cables and bouncing speedometer needles on my 1959. I also searched your posts
for information on removing my speedometer and tachometer. I have all the wires
labeled, bolts removed but can’t figure out how to remove the wiper cable pull
knob on the instrument panel. Please advise. Thank you.
Eric
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Eric,
to release the switch from the cluster housing.
Good luck,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Eric: Disconnect the battery. Then you reach up and disconnect the
speedometer and tachometer cables. Remove the 1/4 inch bolts that hold the
instrument housing to the dashboard structure. Pop out the instrument light
bulbs in the speedometer and tachometer. The oil pressure gauge is a
mechanical gauge with a copper line connecting it to the engine. Be careful
not to damage it. You probably will have to remove the screws holding the
Ammeter/Oil Pressure gauge from the instrument housing. Put a thick towel
over the steering wheel hub to protect it. Pull the instrument housing
forward as much as possible so you can access the screws holding the
tachometer and speedometer to the instrument housing.
The wiper control is a twist knob, not a pull knob. Loosen the set screw
and remove the knob from the control shaft There is a hex nut holding the
wiper control to the instrument panel. Remove it with a socket and the
control comes loose from the instrument housing.
Larry Pearson
Addendum
from Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bill Huffman made a good point that I forgot. I now recall that the wiper
control is not held on by a hex nut, but with a round nut with two slots.
You don't need a special tool to remove it, you can improvise by using long
nose pliers. Grind the tips as necessary to fit into the slots, and use the
plier's handles to turn the nut.
Larry Pearson
**********
03/29/2021
Was wondering if you could tell me if
you can “interchange” channel selector “push buttons” from a 59 to a 62 Corvette
Wonderbar radio. I have a 62 radio I need to make look like a 59. I understand
the push buttons are made differently. Also, are the “Chrome Face Plates”
interchangeable? Thanks.
Dennis.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Ecklers Corvettes
800-327-4868 sells faceplate/bezel/pushbutton refurbish kits for 58/60 and 61/62
Corvette wonderbar radios. Contact them to see if they are mechanically
interchangeable.
From
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Dennis,
Wonderbar knobs, push
buttons & faceplate are different between 1959 and 1962 radios but functionally
are all the same. Kits to convert or restore are commercially available from
most Corvette vendors.
The link below is from Corvette Central so you can see
what's available.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/radio/radio-rebuild/1959/?count=15
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dennis. The 1958-1960 Corvette Wonder Bart radios are the same and have
flat ends on the push buttons, The 1961 radios are the same as the 58-60
radios, except that the button faces are rounded. The 1962 Radio was a
completely new design. The case is larger and the large aluminum filter
capacitor was moved from the left side to the rear of the unit. From 1958 -
61, the large aluminum filter capacitor on the left side had a tendency to
interfere with the cowl vent actuator mechanism and was easily damaged by
it. The face plate and buttons on the 62 radio have the same appearance as
the 1961 radios. The wonderbar switch on the 62 radio has a different feel
to it when actuated. Instead of the microswitch click-click feel as it is
depressed, it has simply a smooth push connection feel when activated. The
face plates of the 1958-62 radios all look the same and are easily removable
and are interchangeable, but that is not what you need. The push button
assemblies are integral to the internal tuning mechanism and would be
extremely difficult to remove and interchange. Find a 58-60 radio and do a
swap with someone who needs a 62 radio. I have a 1960 radio and need a 1962
radio.
Larry Pearson
**********
03/27/2021
I have a 1962 corvette that to the best of my knowledge has a 1962 block and
a1963 transmission.
I recently had a new clutch and throwout bearing installed.
Since then the car drives differently. first the clutch pedal has to be
depressed to the floor to shift, which was not the case before the work.
The clutch pedal would actually get stuck to the floor if it was depressed
that far before the replacement.
The concerning thing is that the car shakes (jumps) when in gear (all gears)
when driving down the road, It will now when coasting with the clutch pedal
pushed or when accelerating.
Is there adjustments to be made?
Greg
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
The clutch to the floor "should" be just an adjustment of the linkage. If
that does not cure that problem then who ever installed the new parts needs
to make it right.
You say the car shakes in all gears. Does this happen at a certain engine
RPM or does it happen at a certain speedometer reading?
If at engine RPM that suggests something related to the engine is out of
balance, such as the new clutch that was installed.
I have had several new pressure plates/clutch disks significantly out of
balance. Started having them balanced as a matter of course before
installing. I remove flywheel, which is a known good part and have the new
clutch balanced on the flywheel.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The clutch pedal travel is adjusted by
lengthening / shortening the clutch push rod (847) that connects the cross shaft
(709) to the clutch wishbone.(489K). This is accomplished by screwing the push
rod clevis (883) up or down the rod. See attached drawing for reference
numbers. The shaking can be several things. If it didn't shake before you had
the work done, it shouldn't shake now. If the clutch assembly (Disc and/or
pressure plate is out of balance that will cause a shutter, but most replacement
parts don't require balancing. The crankshaft where the pilot shaft of the
transmission is stabbed has a brass bearing or bushing. If this was
inadvertently removed and not replaced - you will get a violent shaking at all
speeds and gears (common oversight).

From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Greg: You need to consult with section 6R, "Clutch", of the Corvette
Servicing Guide, Publication ST-12, which is the only official shop manual
for C 1 Corvettes and is a "Must Have" for C1 owners. If you don't have a
copy it can be purchased from any of the major Corvette parts suppliers. By
reading Section 6R, you will learn a lot about how the clutch system works
in your car and how to make adjustments.
Whenever changing a clutch, the clutch free travel must be adjusted. This
procedure is found in page 6R-3 of ST-12. Normally, clutch free travel is
about 1" before the clutch linkage starts to disengage the clutch. If it is
too much, you will have to push the clutch pedal too far to disengage the
clutch. If it is non-existent or worse, the clutch can slip all the time,
and you will burn it up. Maybe you installed a throwout bearing of the
wrong length. If so, adjustments won't fix it. Your car originally came
with a Borg & Beck style pressure plate. Maybe someone put in a diaphragm
type pressure plate, which your car is not set up for.
Clutch pedal total travel adjustment procedure is given on page 6R-3. It
sounds like this may need adjusting. Normally, changing a clutch and
throwout bearing does not affect this adjustment.
Clutch pedal repositioning adjustment is given on page 6R-3 to 6R-4. It
sounds like this may need to be adjusted. Normally, changing a clutch and
throwout bearing does not affect this adjustment
If you paid a mechanic to do the work, the result you describe is totally
unacceptable, and you should take the car back to have it fixed. Because
your mechanic may be totally unfamiliar with vintage Chevys, you should take
your ST-12 Manual with you. Your car is probably older than your mechanic.
Maybe, you too.
Larry Pearson
Also
from John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Greg - you casually
mentioned your clutch would stick when pressed to the floorboard. This may not
have been your major concern, but it is a problem that needs addressing, so here
goes. This can be caused by several things. See
the attached illustration: The return spring (630) on the cross shaft (709) is
designed to give resistance to the pedal when you clutch. As you continue to
depress the pedal, this spring crosses the axis of the cross shaft and becomes
an assist rather than a resisting force. This is designed to allow you to relax
a little when holding the clutch in at - say - a stop light. 1) If your
clutch pressure plate springs are weak they may not overcome the return spring
on your cross shaft, however, they would have to be very weak to cause this. If
this is your problem - replacing the clutch should solve this. More likely 2)
the clutch return spring (630) attached to your cross shaft (709) is the
problem. Where the spring changes from a resisting force to an assisting
force, as you depress the pedal, is adjustable. The adjustment is made with
the bracket (635). It should never cause the pedal to stick down. Several
things may cause this 1) You have the wrong return spring (630). This spring
should be a 17 coil spring. 2) the return spring (630) attaches to the cross
shaft bracket (635) by a link (636) which is about 1" long. If this link is
missing and the return spring (630) is connected directly to the bracket (635)
it requires the return spring to be stretched further than it is designed to be,
and will significantly increase its tension strength. When the clutch is
depressed to the point the return spring becomes an assist, the increased pull
on the spring may become more than the pressure plate springs can overcome, and
could cause the clutch to fail to return properly. Check to verify you have a
correct return spring and the attaching link is there. Good luck - John
**********
03/25/2021
Hello, I recently placed the body onto a new frame. I did not personally
remove the connections under the hood. Can you direct me to a schematic showing
the connections and grounding straps for the 1962 corvette.
Regards Mark
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapteer President:
Mark: The schematic for the 1961-62 Corvettes is shown on page 12-14,
Figure 19, of the official Chevrolet service manual for all C-1 Corvettes,
Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12. If you don't have a copy, it
is a "must have" for all C-1 Corvette owners, and is available in reprint
form from all major Corvette parts suppliers. You also need a copy of the
Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) for the 1962 Corvette, which
tells how the entire car was assembled, and is available from the same
sources as ST-12. Page B 146-147 shows how the wiring is routed under the
hood. By paging through the AIM, most of the questions you might have will
be answered.
As far as grounding goes, all electrical systems must be grounded to the
engine block, which is connected to the negative side of the battery. The
frame is not a good ground. Because the fiberglass body does not conduct
electricity, every lamp and electrical component in the car must have a
separate ground wire that ends up going to the main ground wire for most of
the car's electrical systems, which is a 12 gauge black with white stripe
wire, which is connected to the driver's side upper rear rocker arm screw.
This must be there, and in good condition, or nothing works. In addition,
the radio has its own ground wire, which connects from the 1/4-20 bolt that
connects the radio to the support bracket and goes through the firewall to
the passenger side upper rear rocker arm cover screw (see ST-12, page
13-3). The wiper motor also has a separate ground wire that connects its
mounting plate to the same rocker arm cover screw as the radio ground (see
ST-12, page 12-5, figure 5). The voltage regulator case is grounded to the
engine block via the woven shield that encompasses the generator field and
armature wires. It connects to a screw on the generator housing, which
connects electrically to the engine block.
If your car has a radio, there are two heavy woven copper ground straps that
connect each side of the front engine mount to the frame (see ST-12, page
13-7). This makes the frame a "ground Plane" for the radio antenna for
improved reception, which is also grounded to the frame in the trunk (see
ST-12, page 13-4). There are also filter capacitors on the generator
(connects to the armature terminal), the voltage regulator, and the ignition
coil, designed to filter out electrical noise in the radio (see ST-12, page
13-5, figure 4).
Larry Pearson
**********
03/09/2021
Hi
Thank you for the information on the windshield wiper bracket mount on
my 58. I had read that it was in that location for the fuel injection cars
but wanted your input to confirm.
My follow up question is did they put the mount/bracket on cars that did
not have the wiper sprayer option ? My car has no sign of sprayers but has
that bracket with no tank.
Thank you again
Barry
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry: This is very interesting. The windshield washers were an option in
1958, and maybe your car was ordered to delete that option and the factory
mistakenly bonded an inner fender for FI and washers to your car. That
bracket was screwed to the inner fender before the inner fender was bonded
to the outer fender, because it was much easier to do it that way. If you
remove it, there is no paint under it. Either that or someone removed the
sprayers and filled the holes. Look under the dash for evidence of this.
Or maybe your car was wrecked and a FI front end with washers got bonded
on. There are endless possibilities here.
The presence of this bracket does not, in itself, prove that your car is an
original FI car. If it is, there is a rectangular nut plate riveted to the
driver's side inner fender for mounting the FI air cleaner. This was also
attached to this inner fender before the inner fender was bonded to the
outer fender.
If it turns out that your car is a washer delete and you are restoring it to
be judged, you should remove the bracket and fill in the holes. Also, there
was a large cylindrical vacuum storage tank mounted to the inner fender
above the battery on washer equipped FI cars. Is that there?
Larry Pearson
**********
03/07/2021
I have a 1959 corvette and am trying to install
the rear bow weather strip. The weather strip has 2 sets of two holes at
the latch positions, does the latch fit over the weather strip and the
screws go thru it or are the holes in the weather strip just access holes to
reach the latch screws. Also is there a trick to getting the weather strip
lip to stay on the rear bow so it can be glued or stapled?
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Order of assembly - top bow -
weatherstrip - latch - mounting screws. See illustration below.

**********
03/04/2021
Hello, I’m restoring a 1960 barn find. Finally putting the
car back together. However, I need some direction on how to install the new dash
pad.
I know that I need to cut the dash but not sure how much
too cut and where. If there is any help or a source you can point me to I would
greatly appreciate it.
Thank You, Bob
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Bob,
Here is a
link to Part 1 of an 18 part YouTube video from Paragon Reproductions that
shows the whole process.
Good luck
but remember, measure twice and cut less than you think you should.
You can
always trim twice but once cut too short, you buy a new pad.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
**********
03/01/2021
61 corvette fi yes but not on car ign switch wont start car head
lites dont work battery good put no power to ign switch and head
lites found a wire in same harness with the purple wire that goes to
sol had all coating burnt off cant tell what color that wire was
not sure where it went but all wires are on the ign switch
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Tom, you
need a GM 1961 Corvette Assembly Manual that can be bought online.
You are
also going to need almost a complete re-wire so he is going to need Paragon
Reproductions or Corvette Central
where he
can also buy an assembly manual to do the repairs.
Most of
the electrical info & schematics are in their catalogs or with Lectric
Limted's wiring harnesses.
Bill

From
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: CAUTION - CAUTION - CAUTION
: Burnt insulation usually means YOU HAVE A SHORT in your wiring.
Electrical shorts and fiberglass Corvettes don't play well together. Before
you go any further - make sure you have a fire extinguisher readily
available. If you don't - Go Get One. Next thing you need is a volt meter
- you don't need an expensive one - just one that will tell you you have 12
volts at test points. Third - its a good ides to have a helper, operating
the ignition switch and testing for voltage in the engine bay or under the
dash by yourself is difficult. I have included a rough layout of the wiring
(ignition / lighting circuit) for reference, assuming your car has a stock
harness.
Before you start - loosen the connection to your battery sufficiently -
so you can disconnect it immediately if needed.
1) Power comes from the battery - to - the starter solenoid (term B) -
to the Ammeter. (SEE DIA FOR WIRE SIZES AND COLORS)
2) From the Ammeter - to - the Ignition Switch..... and..... Lite switch
.... Clock, Horn Relay, ACC Fuse, Voltaqge Reg, and Cigarette Lighter
Connections (connections are NOT fused).
3) From the Ignition Sw. - power is returned to the Starter Solenoid
(term S) to activate the solenoid and connect the battery to the
Starter.
TESTING FOR PROBLEM
1) verify voltage (12V) at the "B" term of the solenoid. (ignition
off) This is the 6 GA wire off the battery.
2) the Black 12 Ga. wire from that same terminal feeds the Ammeter. The
load side of the Ammeter feeds the Ignition Sw (14 RED) and the Light
Sw.(12 / 14 RED) and others.
Since you have noted a burnt wire in your starter harness it is probably
the wire running from the solenoid to the ammeter. This would
disconnect power from the ignition and lights.
3) Test for voltage on the Ammeter. Single wire is feed (probable burnt
wire) - multiple wires is load. Both should have 12V (ignition OFF).
If no voltage - you have verified the main wire from the solenoid to the
ammeter is open (burnt). Note: This is not your problem, however, it is
the result of a problem. Analyze the wire from the burn to the
ammeter. If you don't find an obvious problem - disconnect the battery
and run a new wire (12 Ga.) to the ammeter. It would be a good idea to
put a fuse in line with this wire until you have everything working
properly. Get a hand full of fuses also. Once the wire is in place -
reconnect the battery. If the temp. wire (fused) to ammeter blows,
disconnect all wires from the load side of the ammeter. Reconnect them
one at a time - disconnect battery / connect single load / reconnect
battery. Does one blow your fuse ? If so that circuit has the short
you are looking for. All these feeds are hot (they do not require the
ignition switch to be activated) except the ignition switch feed. When
testing the ignition circuit the "ON" position connects the instruments
and radio. The START position connects the power to the starter
solenoid.
Once you have identified what circuit (load) is causing the problem, you
simply have to determine if the wire feeding the load is the problem or
the load itself. Good luck.

From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Tom: If you understand electricity and know how to use a Multimeter
(measures voltage and resistance), you need to consult with the schematic on
page 12-14 (Figure 19) in Corvette Servicing Guide, Chevrolet publication
ST-12. This is the only official shop manual for C-1 Corvettes and copies
are available from all the major Corvette parts suppliers.
If the wiring harness is burned up, you may have to purchase a new wiring
harness for the firewall forward. This wiring harness connects the battery
to all the circuits in the front of the car, including the ignition,
headlights, generator, voltage regulator. horn relay, front turn signals,
starter solenoid, windshield wiper, and more. The purple wire goes to the
starter solenoid and is part of this wiring harness. It sounds to me like
the large red 12-gauge wire from the starter solenoid may not be properly
connected to the large starter lug where the battery cable also connects.
This wire provides battery voltage to all the electrical circuits in the
car. Also, the engine block is the ground point for all the electrical
circuits in the car, and everything connects to a driver's side upper rear
rocker arm cover screw via a 12-gauge black wire with a white stripe. If
this isn't connected, nothing in the car will work.
Without seeing the car, this is all the advice I can give you at this time.
Larry Pearson
**********
02/18/22021
On a 56 Corvette with 2 four carbs, and 1896
heads, Is the generator pulley 3 3/4" or 3 5/8" also are the press marks
rectangular or round? my 56 is #1896 Thank You
Wayne
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Wayne
The correct heads are at that VIN would be 762 and used with the 3 bolt
exhaust manifolds. The 043 generator uses a 3 5/8 pulley. What are press
marks referring to?
Joe
**********
02/18/2021
I have a question about door weatherstrip
installation. The reproduction weatherstrip that I recently bought for the doors
on my 62 has the plastic pins to insert in the holes of the door....so I would
like to know is it necessary to use 3m adhesive when the pins and clips might
suffice? Thank you , Garry
From:
Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President:
Yes!! Use the 3m adhesive. Put a THIN layer of the adhesive on both surfaces as
it is a contact cement.
Allow dry til it's slightly sticky to the touch before putting the
weatherstrip onto the door surface.
Don't close the doors for at least 24 hours after applying the
weatherstrip to the doors.
**********
02/09/2021
Hello,
My 1956 air cleaners have a lot of scratches and some
dents. Should I have then restored or just buy replacements? I don't plan to
have the car judged, but I always do like to keep the original equipment if I
can. Expense wise I would just purchase new ones if it was going to be real
costly to restore the originals. If I were going to have them restored, is
there anyone that you can recommend to me to do that job?
Also some time
ago I asked the question of why my two clutch forks that I had put away to use
in my 1956 when I finally got to it, were different. One with a slotted end and
one with an oval hole. You explained the the slotted one was used in a 1957
through 1962. I think that you went on to say the the adjustable ball, held on
with a clip, are hard to find. I do have the complete unit and I wonder which
style you would recommend that I install.
Thank you,
Michael
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter President:
Michael: I assume that you are referring to the small sealed aluminum air
cleaners. These air cleaners are made up of a thin aluminum stamping.
Once it gets dented, the metal stretches and it can't be simply be pushed
out from the inside without leaving an unsightly ripple. And there is not
enough metal thickness to buff out deep scratches. In other words, they
cannot be restored to the original look if they have dents and deep
scratches. This is also true for the 1958-62 large aluminum air cleaner
tops. If you want the original look, you must buy the reproductions.
Larry Pearson
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Michael
I would use the factory typical configuration for a 1956. It is easier to
get it correct the first time rather than later on.
Joe
**********
02/08/2021
Hi,
I recently bought a 62 Corvette the wipers do not work? No hum from
the motor cables seems to be in tack how do I tell if it is the transmissions or
the motor?
Thankyou
Bob
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Bob,
Welcome to Corvette
heaven. I'm guessing you just bought either your first Corvette and or your
first C-1.
The tach drive is off your distributor and has nothing to do
with your wipers.
If the tachometer is noisy, it's probably your tach cable.
If it's noisy & erratic, it could be either or both of the tachometer or
cable.
The electric wiper motor switch is on top of the wiper motor
gearbox and is actuated by a pull cable attached to the wiper switch located on
lower left of the instrument cluster closest to the steering column.
The
problem could be switch cable adjustment or being disconnected, a blown fuse or
faulty contact inside the gearbox switch. Use a meter to check for electric
current. If you have WS Washers, the coordinator which mounts on the gearbox
switch plate could be missing, broken or disconnected. Try buying an original
and you'll see why it could be missing.
The wipers don't have
"transmissions", they have a mounting Pully-Shaft and are both driven by cables
off the wiper motor gearbox.
Buy yourself a 1962 Corvette Assembly Manual and
read it before you
accidentally break something that is costly to replace.
Congrats on your new toy,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bob: Things to check:
1. Is the control on the dash actually moving the switch on the top of the
motor? The connection is adjustable with a set screw and washer. All 62's
came with a windshield washer, and the vacuum operated automatic activator
is on top of the wiper motor connects to the motor switch and maybe this is
keeping the motor from operating.
2. The motor gets its electrical ground from a brown wire that connects the
base through the right mounting screw to the upper rear rocker arm cover
screw on the right bank. The motor needs this ground connection, otherwise
it gets its ground through the control cable that goes to the dash, and this
is not a good ground connection. The engine block is the ground point for
all electrical systems in the car. The car body is non-conductive
fiberglass and all electrical systems on the car must have their ground
connections end up on the engine block. The frame is not a good ground.
3. The wiper motor gets its power through the ignition switch brown wire
that connects to the ignition ballast resistor on the passenger (right)
side. Is it there, or is it going somewhere else?
4. If you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the power lead to the
motor case while moving the switch. It should read less than one ohm when
the switch activates the motor. If you get an open circuit no matter where
the switch is, then the motor needs repair. Corvette Central has a
rebuilding service. Or you can open up the cover and see if there is a
broken wire and maybe fix it yourself.
Larry Pearson
Bob: Some additional thoughts on your wiper problem:
1. The wiper motor circuit is not fused. It comes directly off of the
ignition circuit, which is not fused. There is a built in circuit
breaker that protects the ignition circuit against internal shorts in
the Wiper Motor.
2. Complete servicing information for the windshield wiper motor and
system is contained 12-4 through 12-9 in Corvette Servicing Guide,
publication ST-12. This is the only official shop manual for all C-1
Corvettes, and is something you must acquire to help you maintain your
62. It is available from all Corvette parts suppliers. Page 12-9
contains a Trouble Shooting guide for the wiper motor.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: First - the wiper motor operation
has nothing to do with the wiper transmissions and drive cables. Don't tear
into these unless you have to. The motor control located in your dash is not
electrical - it is connected to the wiper motor via a sleeved cable. The actual
electrical switch that turns the motor on and off and controls its speed is on
the motor assembly itself. 1) Make sure you have power to the motor. The motor
feed connects to the ballast resistor in the engine bay on the firewall on the
passenger side by the wiper motor. This is not a fused connection. It feeds
directly from the ignition switch. Switch ON = 12V. With the switch ON you
should have 12V at the ballast resistor and wiper motor. 2) Make sure the motor
is grounded. It should be a jumper between the motor mounting plate and the
engine valve cover mounting screw. 3) Make sure a twist of the wiper switch on
your dash moves the wiper motor actuator slide. And moves it far enough to
activate the motor switch inside the cover plate to which it is attached. 4) If
the actuator doesn't move or you are not sure it moves far enough - loosen the
clamping screw that holds the cable jacket in place and move the actuator by
hand. If after this you get no motor, you probably have a bad motor. You can
disassemble the motor assembly and remove the cover plate to inspect the switch
and speed controls, but I have rarely seen them fail. Good Luck - John
**********
02/07/2021
Hi
Is this a windshield washer tank mount ?
Passenger side wheel well.
Thanks
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter President: Barry
The passenger side washer jar
was used on 58 thru 62 fuel injected cars and your bracket is unique to fi cars.
All others used a diffetent bracket mounted on the drivers side splash pan. The
fi washer equipment was moved to the passenger side due to air cleaner
interference.
Chip Werstein
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Yes!!
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry: Yes it is and it is mounted on the passenger side because your car
was originally fuel injected. On 1958-1962 fuel injected cars, the air
cleaner assembly blocked access to the left hand location, so it was moved
to the passenger side and uses a different type of bracket. Also, because
it is close to the exhaust manifold, a black painted aluminum heat shield
was screwed to the inner fender with three screws to protect the washer
assembly from the heat. The drivers side mounting for carburetor engines
was mounted low on the fender skirt and therefore was not subjected to
exhaust manifold heat,
The windshield washer was and extra cost option until 1962, when it became
standard equipment.
Larry Pearson
**********
02/02/2021
Restoring a 1960 (5034), I have the doors off and can't find any video or
how to on tearing down the doors, removing windows ect. I have an assembly
manual but not very helpful on how to strip everything out.
thanks
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: I have taken Um-teen doors apart
and I have to retrain myself every time. They are kinda like a Chinese
Puzzle. Just take your time and don't get frustrated. To take the
window out you don't have to remove the front post and door guts, a lot of
rebuilders do - it just adds to more loose pieces you have to manipulate.
You roll the window up and down to gain access to all the mounting hardware.
1) With the glass (and frame) loose from the regulator (four small screws hold
the glass to the track that runs along the bottom of the window unit) - 2) Lower
the regulator down out of the way. 3) Rotate the window assembly slightly toward
the rear (front up - back down) and it will come out. If it binds up -
don't force it. Move or remove what is binding. With the glass out,
the remaining pieces come out fairly easily. When you're re-assembling it
- go slow - pay attention to how it came apart. The glass and frame go in
last. The door glass frame is notorious for catching on everything.
You will think it won't go back together - inspect the back glass frame - it
will undetectably catch on the door braces and not allow you to set the window
forward enough, thus the window will not roll up and down when assembled.
Note the operation of the window as it rolls down - it rocks back then down.
Good Luck. Let me know if you invent any new words, I'll add them to my
garage dictionary. - -John
**********
1/17/2021
My name is Leo.
I inherited my uncles 58 corvette about 1.5 years ago and I’ll be starting restoration.
First thing first. Fiberglass work. I already had a fiberglass guy look at my car and seems to be on point with the work needed,
(front end needs the most work). He looked at the top of the front end, fenders and hood. The fiberglass is solid,
but has fibers exposed.
My question to you concerns the process only for the top of fenders and hood. I was told to sand and reglass using chop Matt sheets.
I was also told to sand and mix resin with half inch chop strand (the half inch chopped fiberglass that comes in plastic bags-looks
like powder) and brush a new layer over the tops of the fenders and hood.
Then block sand. Is this something that is done? It was suggested because the car sat out for 10-20 years in a field, and even
though the fiberglass is solid, the top is showing fibers. What’s your thought?
Thanks
Leo

From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Leo - if the glass is sound, and
it looks like it is, I would just restore the gel coat. This is a spray on
process, it doesn't add significant thickness and it will give you a smooth
surface to prime and paint. You will still want to lightly sand the gel coat
(300 grit or higher) before priming.
**********
1/5/2021
Hi,
I
have the rear axle strut rods off my 61 and would like to replace
the bushings. Does anyone have any experience doing this? I got
replacements from Corvette Central, they said just use WD40 or soapy
water and just "push them into place". It sounds to easy.
Thanks, Mike
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Mike,
When
you're done, the rebuilt strut rod assembly with 2 new bushings needs to
look exactly like what you started with except, it will look & function as
"new".
That
means the bushing steel outer ring & the steel inner ring both need to be
centered in the strut rod ends after assembly even though inner & outer are
of different length.
Whether
you use a mechanical press, a hydraulic press or a big vise for assembly,
that means you need to use spacers on both sides to apply pressure to the
rod end O.D. emboss on one side and to the bushing outer ring on the other
side when pressing them together.
The outer
bushing is a press fit into the rod end, so lube of some type will be
necessary.
Good
luck,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Mike
Bill's explanation is correct but the bushings can still be
difficult to press in. To make installation easier i heat the strut rod
ends....im in s.cal so just putting them in the
sun
on a warm day does the job......and put the bushings in the freezer. The rod
will expand and the bushing will contract providing a couple thousands extra
clearance which will make installation much easier.
Chip Werstein
**********
Hi
I have noticed the the attached photograph is different then just about
every other 58 Corvette I have seen
Can you identify the difference for me ?
Barry
From:
Joe Lemay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
It is a vacuum wiper motor. I had one in a 55 Chevy. They are a bit of a
problem going uphill in a downpour; stopped.
Joe
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry
As Joe said, you have the wrong wiper motor. Should be electric.
Also the ballast resister is in the wrong location.
Chip Werstein
**********

Hi
I have read about some tachs but haven't found any comments on redline at
5500 and what it may have been originally attached to 230 hp I am guessing.
The other redlined higher at 250 and 290
Thanks
Barry
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Barry,
For 1958 thru 1960, the 5500 RPM tach was used on the low HP engine
options which were the 230 HP carbureted,
245 HP dual carbureted &
250 HP w/ FI.
The 6500 RPM tach was specified for higher HP options 275
HP dual carb and 290 HP w/ FI.
Good luck with your restoration project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
This is not a 58 tach. 58 tachs had a rev counter (like spedo has a mileage
counter). This tach appears to be a 60 model. "light green background to 20 -
signal green above that.
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry
The tach in your photo is from a 60 to 62 low horse car. Normally
referred to as a 5300 redline. 58 tach had no color band up to the redline, dots
under the numbers and a rev counter. These were used on 230,245 and 250 hp cars.
Chip Werstein
**********
12/17/2020
Hello,
I purchased from a friend a harmonic balancer with a
riveted on pulley, which is about 6 13/16 inches across and my water pump
pulley is 2 3/4 inches high from the inside to the outside of the pulley. The
pulley is 7 1/8 inches across. I was taken off his 265 cubic inch engine. I
began by installing a new crankshaft spacer recently purchased from Corvette
Central. i put some RTV silicone on the inside of the balancer, (recommended by
the machine shop that rebuilt my engine), and installed the balancer. It slid
on 1 1/4 inches, the length of the remaining part of the crankshaft sticking
out. My water pump was also recently purchased from Bill Mock. My water pump
pulley has about 1/8 inch of clearance between it and the balancer pulley,
looking at it from the front and from the side it looks like the balancer pulley
is slightly behind the water pump pulley. Does that all seem correct?
The next question is in regards to my core support that came with my car, a
basket case without a radiator. When taking the car apart a few years ago, I
found that the core support had a hole cut out in the bottom by a torch. Most
likely for a radiator drain cock. Thinking that it was pretty ugly, I took it
and a later solid axle core support to a shop and asked them to cut the drain
hole from the later one and weld it into the support from my 1956. Eventually i
found a radiator and when i slid the radiator into the core support, I found
that the drain is well above the drain hole that I had installed. Looking on
the 1956 assembly manual it looks like the 1956 core support didn't have a
drain hole in the bottom. Is that correct? I guess if it is, I will have to
fill in the hole that put in the bottom of mine.
Thanks for all of your
help now and over the past months.
Happy holidays,
Michael
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Michael
You have a problem. If the balancer slid on, do not use it. It is an
interference fit that requires light tapping to install onto the crank.
Even if the crank is tapped, stay away from this balancer unless you have it
professionally rebuilt by someone such as Damper Doctor.
There is a small amount of clearance between the two pulleys. They should
exactly line up if you are using the 1956 components or the low horsepower
1957 components.
First, the spacer is required on the end of the crank to account for the
motor support and second gasket that spaces the water pump out. Are you
using a stock motor support for a C1 Corvette?
Second, if you use a higher horsepower water pump pulley it is wider (3/8
vs. 1/2). From the Judging Manual page 180 "Pump
pulley used on 1956 engines and base 220 horsepower 1957 engines has a
smooth conical taper from the belt groove to the fan mount; 1957 optional
engine fan pulley has a "stepped" taper and 1/2-inch "deep-ride" belt
groove."
I know what
this looks like. For my car, the belt stays in place with a 3/8 balancer
pulley and 1/2 water pump pulley.
There is a
hole in the radiator support on the passenger side. See the Assembly Manual
Section 13, Sheet 3. There is a nipple, coupling and petcock, that extends
the petcock below the core support.
-Joe
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: The 1956 through 1960 Corvettes used a copper and brass
radiator that bolts to the core support used for those years. The drain
cock fitting is located on the front of the passenger side of the bottom
tank of the radiator. You reach through the grille teeth to access this
drain cock fitting (if you have fairly skinny arms). Otherwise, get
someone who does, because that is the only way to get to it, unless you
remove the hood. There is no hole in the bottom of the core support for
the 1956 through 1960 cars, because the drain cock is not on the bottom
of the radiator.
Starting in 1961 an aluminum radiator appeared and the radiator core
support was completely redesigned, because the radiator attached to it
in a completely different way. The aluminum radiator mounted to the
support with three rubber donuts, two on the bottom and one on top. A
reason for the rubber donuts was to prevent a corrosive galvanic action
from forming between the aluminum radiator and the steel radiator
support. Also, this approach made it very easy to remove and replace
the radiator. The drain cock and its extension pipe for this radiator
are of all-aluminum construction (to prevent galvanic corrosion) and
exits straight down through a flared oval shaped hole on the driver's
side of the core support. The reason for this was because the aluminum
radiators were of a cross-flow design and the "tanks" were on both
sides, not the bottom and top. Never use brass fittings on an aluminum
radiator.
Larry Pearson
*****************
I have a 1959 corvette that had a
differential grease leak into the brake on the right side. I pulled the
axle and found a bearing with 1 o ring and a 1/8 inch spacer. The bearing
called out for the 58 - 62 has 2 o rings and is the same thickness as the
old bearing with the 1/8 inch spacer. However, when installed the bearing
with 2 o rings has a slight bit of the bearing that is not seated in the
race although I never looked at the positioning on the old bearing prior to
pulling the axle. My 59 has a 57 block so perhaps the rear axle is 57 also
as the bearing race measures slightly less than 1”.
So, are the
bearings of the 57 interchangeable with the bearings called out for the 58 -
62 and why the spacer on my old bearing. The 58 - 62 seems to be a better
bearing as it is sealed and with double o rings I would think it would give
better leak protection.
Jeff
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Jeff,
Just to reiterate
what's in your memo, you have a 1959 Corvette with a defective right rear
bearing seal leaking axle lube into your brake components, you think the old
bearing is incorrect because it is different from the new replacement that
you just bought so now you you think you may have a 1957 engine & rear axle.
Before you buy any more parts,
PLEASE go online to get a copy of the
GM 1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12,
then invest in a GM 1959
Assembly Manual plus
buy an NCRS 1953-1967 Corvette Specification book,
both of which you can buy from most Corvette parts vendors.
With
these you need to get acquainted with the part numbers & date codes of what
your 61 year old car has & the assembly manual will tell you what part
numbers it should have.
I suspect a previous owner put in some
similar but not necessarily correct parts because they were cheap or easier
to get.
Good luck on your quest,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jeff: All 1957 through 1962 Corvettes used the same axles. Cars with
Positraction got roller type rear axle bearings and non Positraction
cars got ball bearings. All 1957 through 1962 Corvettes used the same
axle bearings of both types, as applicable. The service roller type
rear axle bearings have not been available for many years. They are
considered to be heavy duty and were also used in taxi cabs. In
addition to the two "O" rings used to seal the bearing outer race to the
axle housing, the bearing also has an inner seal, on the outside only,
to keep the differential gear oil from leaking onto the brake components
but allowing the gear lubricant to lubricate the balls and rollers.. A
failure of either seal will result in a leak. Corvette Central sells new
replacement "O" rings. The bearing seal is not serviceable. You have
to buy a new bearing. Usually bearing failure results in a leak.
The bearing is supposed to be pressed onto the axle shaft all the way to
the flange. There is no spacer that I am aware of. Then a retaining
ring is pressed onto the axle shaft to assure that the bearing stays in
place. The retaining ring is wider than 1/8 inch. This retaining ring
is not a spacer and must be there or the axle might start moving out of
the bearing.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/14/2020
Hello —I have a 1962 Corvette 327 / 340 hp. I’m in the process of installing new
hoses from the expansion tank. I found this cooling system hose routing diagram.
However it doesn’t include the heater core hose connections. Where do those
two hoses plumb in?
Thanks. -Rex
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Rex
That illustration is taken from the 1962 assembly manual. You need a copy
of that manual. The routing of the hoses and clips that hold them in place
is shown.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Rex,
It helps
to use vendor catalogs from folks who sell C-1 parts.
Try
Paragon Reproductions or Corvette Central.
Both diagrams are borrowed from the GM C-1 Assembly Manual for each
particular year. The 1962 GM Assembly Manual is available from most Corvette
parts vendors.
Please get one.
Bill Huffman, Pres
Michigan Chapter SACC

From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Heater connections go
to 1 )intake - 2) waterpump - see attached. good luck - John
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
The heater hoses do not connect directly to this over flow system. One
heater hose connects to the water pump, small connection just above the
radiator hose connection. The other heater hose connects to the right front
of the intake manifold, not the hole on top of the intake but on the front
of the intake..Note the hose connection sticking out upper left in the
picture.
Verle

From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Rex: The routing of the two heater hoses plus the two brackets that hold
them and the aluminum tie strap are all pictured in Figure 24 (Heater
Connections) on page 1-13 of the official GM shop manual for the C-1
Corvettes: Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12. If you don't have
this manual, it it a "must have" for C-1 Corvette owners, and is available
in reprint from all the major Corvette parts suppliers.
All the fittings and brackets are available from Corvette Central if you
need them. The part numbers are:
451345 Heater hose bracket on inner fender (W shaped) This screws to the
inner fender fiberglass above the battery.
451316 Heater hose bracket on generator support bracket bolt.
451330 Aluminum tie strap (the long one). The short one ties the two small
hoses going to the aluminum expansion tank.
451326 curved fitting going to the right hand side of the water pump.
451327 straight fitting going to the intake manifold.
The heater hoses were originally held on to the fittings with simple
"Corbin" spring clamps. These are self tightening and work fine with your
13 lb system. If you are going to a higher pressure system you probably
should use a screw type or a tower or worm gear type clamp. These type
clamps are not self tightening and you should re-tighten them shortly after
driving the car. The rubber hoses compress slightly after they thermally
cycle a few times.
Larry Pearson
**********
12/05/2020
I have a 1961 fuelie. Should this car have the generator with the tach drive
or a standard generator
Thomas
From: Bill Huffman,
Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Tach drive
on your 1961 fuelie depends on its HP rating.
A 275 HP w/
7077200 FI and a1010915 distributor with one output that only drives the FI
fuel pump needs a tach drive generator.
A 315 HP FI
has a dual drive distributor that drives both the tachometer and the FI fuel
pump.
If your car
has a lower RPM redline it should be the 275.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From: Larry Pearson, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
Your car should have a high performance 35 amp generator with cast steel ends
and dual ball bearings (front and rear). The part number should be 1102268.
According to the Delco Remy application catalog, this generator was also used
on pickup trucks, so it should be common, But it is not, and it gets very
expensive to buy one. Your FI distributor should have a tach. drive fitting
on it for your tachometer.
If you are not having your car judged, any 30 amp generator will work. If you
have a 4:11 or 4:56 rear end or are using low profile tires you should have a
dual ball bearing type generator because of the high engine speeds it will
encounter. It should also have a large diameter pulley to reduce generator
speed.
Larry Pearson
**********
I have just removed the body off my 1960 corvette. I have been razor blade
stripping the last coat of paint (2nd coat painted over orig in
1970). What is the best way to strip the original paint and primer, I have read
about many options.

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Some enthusiasts don't recommend this method
because unless the surfaces are washed very thoroughly you acn leave behind a
chemical residue that will ruin a new paint job. But with care this can be
prevented. I have attached some photos of the process I have used numerous
times. The color coats (repaints) strip easily but I find teh original factory
coats to be a little more stubborn. I use a chemical stripper (bought from your
paint supplier - not home depot). Put on a good pair of rubber gloves and have
a bucket of clear water by your side at all times. Use a paint brush to apply a
liberal coat of stripper - wait - let it do its job. The paint will bubble up
(you may need a second coat/application of stripper) Use a plastic bondo
spreader (not a metal putty knife or razor blade) to scrape off the stripped
paint. This will almost be a liquid. Scrape the paint off the spreader into a
coffee can or other suitable (throw-away) container. You may need to repeat
this step several times. When you get down to the last coat (primer) scrub the
stripper with steel wool to get to bare glass. Apply one more coat of stripper
and scrub it with a clean steel wool pad - only this time, apply running water
to the area while you scrub instead of scraping the stripper. The last step is
the critical one. Apply plenty of water (from a running hose) while you
scrub/clean the stripper off. This removes the chemical residue that will ruin
your following paint job. The result is a clean glass surface that is not
gouged up or damaged. After the glass dries, a light sand job will prep it for
the repainting process. See photos attached. Good luck !!




From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Stephen,
I have stripped numerous C-1 Corvettes over the years. I have used a PPG
stripper designed for use on fiberglass which will not attack the the
fiberglass. It will take off the original lacquer and some factory primer. The
remaining primer needs to be wet sanded off using 220 grit paper. It is a long
and tedious job. Others my suggest faster and easier methods using stronger
stripper etc. but you run the risk of damageing your gelcoat and glass matt.
It has been several years since I've tackled a job like that and there may be
new/better products available
today.
I would check with PPG and other major paint manufacturers for advise.
Chip Werstein
**********
11/12/2020
Hello,
I
have a 1954 Vette with a problem that I hope you can help me with.
I've searched for a solution, but with no success.
The
ignition switch has four positions (LOCK, OFF, ON, START). The finger
guard of the lock cylinder has one hole on the right side for insertion of the
cylinder lock removal tool (AKA paper clip). My lock has become
difficult to get in and out of the LOCK position, so I no longer use the LOCK
position. I’d like to replace the lock cylinder.
I
have seen videos of ignition lock cylinder removal on newer Chevys, but not on
the '54. Newer locks have two holes on the left side of the finger
guard; mine has only one hole on the right. Also, newer locks have an
ACCESSORY position all the way to the left; mine has no ACCESSORY position.
For newer locks the instructions say to put the lock in the ACCESSORY
position, insert the paper clip into the bottom hole, and pull out the
cylinder. Without more explicit instructions that apply to a ’54 I’m
reluctant to move ahead because I don’t want to screw something up. So
here are my questions if you can help.
How
do I remove the lock cylinder on my '54? Do I insert the paper clip when
in the OFF position or LOCK position? Or I just leave things alone and
learn to live with the problem and not use the LOCK position?
Do
you have a recommendation for a replacement lock cylinder? I see that
the Standard Motor Products US21L may work. Another
option is the Dorman 989-037, but the finger guard may be too
large. Also, I've seen references to GM 3772085. I
don't know if that's the OEM part number, and I wouldn't know where to find
it. Any suggestions?
So
that’s the story. I don't want to get the existing cylinder stuck in
the LOCK position, which would render my Corvette undriveable. If you
can provide any guidance, it will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks.
John
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
John
Contact Pete Lindahl 505.412.2389. He is the lock guy. He my even have nos ign
switches. Nice guy, quality work. I have used him for years.
Chip Werstein
**********
11/10/2020
I have a 1962 with a 327 / 340 hp , my garage floor under my tail pipes is
full of black soot every time I start her up and it will clear it self after a
few minutes.
Can you help?
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
Black smoke suggest an over rich fuel mixture.
A cold start will have the choke set so the mixture is richer. After a short
time the choke will open reducing the mixture so the black smoke ends.
The choke may be set too rich.
Verle
**********
11/6/2020
As far as I know and can tell, my 1958 never had any windshield washers.
Since I am going to be installing a new one piece front end from the upper
dash forward on my 1956, I am wondering whether windshield washers were an
option. I am thinking of leaving it washers delete as my 1958 appears to
be.
Thank you,
Michael
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: According to the NCRS Specifications Guide, the windshield
washer on the 1956 was standard equipment until "approximately April of
1956", after which it became FOA 109, a $11.85 option. If you are
planning to have NCRS judge your car and your car is an early one, you might
need this. If you have it, why not install it?
Windshield washers were an extra cost option until 1962, when they became
standard on the car.
Larry Pearson
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Michael
In 1956, windshield washers were a required option through March
1956. All cars were fully optioned with 2X4 barrel, windshield
washers, power top, parking brake alarm, and courtesy lights. If you
have an early car, those options were present. This was covered in a
bulletin on April
6, 1956.
BTW, there is no such thing as washer delete, radio delete, heater delete;
they were listed as options.
**********
11/2/2020
What is the correct procedure for installing the harmonic balancer? I
would assume that you get it started and then drive it on by placing a piece
of hardwood or a brass cylinder on the center of it and hitting it with a
hammer. I looked in the 1957 Motor's Auto Manual, but it didn't have any
description of how to install one. I just want to make sure that I do it
correctly.
Thank you,
Michael
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
If you are removing the motor, have the crank tapped for a retaining bolt.
I believe it was a 7/16-20 X 2 1/2. It is a safety issue if you have
heard from someone who had their balancer fall off. I know there were no
balancer bolts in 56-57, but we learn.
If there is a bolt, install the balancer with a threaded rod. Screw
the rod all the way in, then use a washer and nut to pull the balancer on.
Otherwise the threads can strip on a bolt if the fit is tight. Then
remove the rod and replace with a bolt.
If you do not have a threaded hole, use a rubber mallet to drive the
balancer on.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: If your crank snout is threaded, use a grade 8 bolt with a
thick washer(s) to pull the balancer onto the crankshaft.. Choose a bolt
long enough that it threads at least 1/2 inch into the crankshaft threads
before starting the installation Once the balancer is completely seated
on the crankshaft snout, use a bolt and washer as described in the next
paragraph to assure that the balancer stays in place.
If the crankshaft snout is not threaded, you have to pound it on with a heavy
steel hammer and a thick block of steel, brass or aluminum. Do not hammer
directly on the balancer. Wood and rubber hammers won't work.
If the balancer is used and goes on easily, it will come off easily, and that
is not acceptable. If you cannot get a balancer that goes on tightly,
then you will have to find a way to drill and tap the crankshaft snout.
The thread size should be 7/16x20 and the retaining bolt should be 2 1/4
inches long. This bolt length is too short to use to pull the balancer
on. The factory washer part number is (was) 3739422. Corvette
Central can supply the bolt and washer. Also, use a lock washer over the
flat washer.
One more thing. A special round washer type spacer with a notch to clear
the key should be on the crankshaft snout to space the balancer out by the
thickness of the front cross member engine mount to cause proper belt
alignment. This always ends up missing whenever an engine gets rebuilt.
Once the engine is together, there is no easy way to determine if this spacer
is in place. If you have access to a loose crankshaft, measure the
length of the snout and then use a caliper depth gauge to see if your snout is
slightly shorter, indicating that the spacer is in place. The original
GM part number for the spacer was 3734984. Corvette Central can
supply it.
Larry Pearson
**********
10/18/2020
Wondering if someone has an opinion on new black carpet for a 62
-Garry
From:
Bill. Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:
Garry,
Most carpet from Corvette suppliers will be from Al Knoch Interior.
Their stock 1959-1962 black carpet is a black/olive tuxedo carpet intended to be
identical to GM original. I'm sure there may be vendors who sell a true black if
that's what you want.
It' your car, make yourself happy.
One thing I've learned in 5o + years of owning Corvettes, the next owner will
most likely want it in stock condition so they don't need to re-do it.
Hope every mile is a happy memory,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
10/15/2020
Hello — I just bought a 1962 Corvette with the 327 / 340 hp engine,
numbers’ matching, a little rough, but it’s all there. However
someone sanded the paint down to the fiberglass. 1) What is the
best/safest primer to use for covering this bare surface? 2) How does one
safely remove oil spots from the bare fiberglass surface? 3)
What’s the correct color for the rear end housing, the 3rd member
‘pumpkin’, and the backing plates? 4) Can you recommend a written
source which provides detailed pictures, restoration info, component colors,
hose, line routing, etc.?
Thanks. -Rex
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:
The best source is the National Corvette Restoration Society.
Scroll down to the 61-62 manual. This is a 364 page manual with detailed
information.
If you want a correct/original restoration I suggest you join NCRS. There are
chapters across the country.
Many of us in SACC are also NCRS members.
Don't be afraid to ask questions here.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Rex: On questions #1 & #2, you need to contact a Corvette body shop
in your area that has an excellent reputation for painting Corvettes.
The car was originally painted with Acrylic Lacquer and this material has been
banned by the EPA in most areas of the country. Major paint
manufacturers like Ditzler no longer make all the toners that are required to
make the correct colors. Also the primer originally used is no
longer available. The cars were not clear coated. Don't plan on
painting a Corvette yourself or having a general purpose body shop paint it.
Properly painting a Corvette can take six months and costs lots of money.
At least your car has already been stripped down to bare fiberglass, and this
saves you lots of money. Now it will be easy to determine if any
bodywork is required. On the assembly line, it took about four hours to
primer and paint the car, and the resulting finish had lots of orange peel and
was not even close to being show quality.
On questions #3, the entire chassis including the brake lines and backing
plates, brake drums, one side of the brake master cylinder and the line going
up to it, the front and rear suspensions including the springs and shock
absorbers and rear axle assembly, the rear axle rebound straps and even the
exhaust system (most of it) was painted with chassis blackout paint.
Prior to 1962, the cast iron transmissions were painted with chassis blackout
paint. The 1962 cast iron three speed transmission was probably painted
chassis black, but not the 4-speed and Powerglide transmissions, which were
aluminum. This final blackout painting was done just prior to the body
being mounted on the frame. This paint was an inexpensive petroleum
based material, that is referred to as "tar"paint and quickly
deteriorates. I recommend using black enamel, and originally the finish
was glossy when new. The rear axle rebound straps don't look painted because
the paint they used absorbed into the material. I have road test photos
and assembly line photos of new Corvettes that prove all of this.
On question #4, if you are going to have NCRS judge your car, you need to join
the organization and obtain their judging manual and do everything it tells
you to do. This manual is a "cook book" that judges use down
to the letter. In SACC, we do not judge Corvettes. We maintain and
enjoy them. Doing everything in the NCRS judging manual gets very
expensive. If you are not going the NCRS route, the Corvette Assembly
Information Manual (A.I.M.) should tell you everything you need to know about
how the car was assembled, The A.I.M. for the 1962 Corvette is available
as a reprint from most Corvette parts suppliers.
**********
10/06/2020
My 62 starts and idles great. When I take off it starts to miss on 1st
2nd and third, not as bad on fourth. I replaced plug wires, cap and
rotor, and rebuilt the carb but nothing is working.
-Adnan
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Adnan: Make sure that your
timing is properly set. The timing mark on your harmonic balancer (damper)
may have shifted due to deterioration of the rubber in its construction.
To verify that the timing mark is correct, you will have to determine the actual
top dead center. You can do this by removing the #1 spark plug and
carefully turning to engine over with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to
determine when the piston is at the top of travel. If your balancer is
retained by a bolt, you can slowly turn the engine over using a 1/2 inch
ratchet. If not, remove all of the spark plugs and turn the engine over
using the fan blades, if it is rigid (no fan clutch). If none of the
above, you will have to turn the engine with a screwdriver on the teeth of the
flywheel and with the use of a helper.
Once you have determined top dead center, mark it with a Sharpie on the edge of
the balancer is it is different from the factory mark. Then replace the
balancer as soon as you can, because it is defective.
If the timing is correct, try a new coil. Check the spark plug wires for
continuity with an ohm meter and insulation breakdown by looking for sparking in
the dark. If the wires are of the radio suppression type, the resistance
should be about 1000 ohms (I think). Ten thousand ohms or higher is too
much. Check the ballast resistor for continuity with an ohm meter.
It should be between 0.5 ohms and 1.5 ohms.
Larry Pearson
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Adnan - Larry is correct to suspect timing, but I would suspect the distributor
advance more than a change in the harmonic balancer. You can check this
with a timing light. Hook up the timing light and watch the timing mark on
the timing chain cover and its relation to the mark on the balancer as you goose
(highly technical term meaning open rapidly) the throttle. You should see
the timing mark move in relation with the timing chain cover tab. If it
don't you have a vacuum advance problem (usually presented as a faltering of the
engine during acceleration) or a mechanical advance problem (more typical of
what you're describing). When you first crack your throttle you should see
the timing drop (vacuum advance function) then advance with RPMs (mechanical
advance function). Otherwise it sounds like you've addressed the other
suspects. Good luck - John
**********
09/29/2020
I have been restoring my ’59 for 30+ years. I’m on the downhill side of
this project. But, I’ve run into a problem of how to adjust the door hinges
& align the doors. Every source I’ve found only shows the locations of the
hinge bolts which control the alignment & some mentions possibly using
shims. However, I’ve found no info on what procedure or order to follow. My
efforts so far have been less that acceptable. Can you suggest where I can
find such info? Thanks for your time & any guidance or help you might offer.
Lewis
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Lewis: The procedure is found
in the only official GM shop manual for C-1 Corvettes: Corvette Servicing
Guide, Publication ST-12. Reproductions of this manual are available from
all the major Corvette parts supply sources.
The explanation is found on page 1-19, DOOR HINGES and refers to figure 31 on
page 1-17. The door is held to the upper and lower door hinges by three
bolts per hinge. The bolt access holes were originally covered with round
black felt covers to keep rain water out of the area behind the door panel.
If you loosen (don't remove) these three upper and lower bolts, the door can be
shifted up and down and back and forth to a small degree. As you adjust
the doors as necessary for proper alignment with the body exterior, just tighten
one bolt of the three until you have the the door in proper alignment and then
tighten the other two bolts. If the door needs to move outward, you will
have to add round steel washers between the hinge and the door. If the
door needs to move inward, you will have to remove any shims that are already in
place. If there are no shims in place, you might have to take your car to
an experienced Corvette body shop for help on this.
There are two large Phillips head screws that hold the hinges to the body.
There is no adjustment here, so leave them alone. Be sure to lubricate the
flat friction springs in the body part of the hinge assemblies. Use
Lubriplate light white grease. There is an upper and lower flat spring in
each door hinge. These are to keep the door fully open with their friction
so the door doesn't close on you when you want it to stay open.
After you have the door properly adjusted, be sure to replace the round seals
using an adhesive. If there were no seals, use a couple layers of masking
tape over each of the six holes.
Larry Pearson
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Lewis,
I had the
same problem with two different full restorations, this is how I did it.
Work
carefully, this is not the time to scratch the paint.
Attach
the hinges to the body "close but very loose" then mount the
door on the open position hinges.
Attach
the hinge bolts to the door "close but very adjustable".
Measuring
from the floor, lift & support the door level as close to final position
as possible then tighten the body screws to finger tight adjustable.
Cut 8 or
10 cardboard shims measuring 4" x 8". Tape them equally spaced
around the door opening, lengthwise across the sill to protect the paint.
Close
& latch the door. The fit / door gap should be uniform all around.
If it is,
Tighten the all door attachment bolts securely. If it's not, adjust the
latch on the body & try again.
Open the
door carefully without applying any extra load and tighten the hinge
to body screws.
You
should be done,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
**********
09/26/2020
I just bought a 1959 corvette that has Fuel Injection emblems on it and I am
trying to locate the build information to determine if it was actually built as
a fuel injected car. The original engine is long gone and just getting
started with the job of replacing tired parts.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Jeff,
The bad news is that there is no data base that contains the information you're
looking for regarding 1953-1962 Corvettes.
The paint & engine code plate under the hood wasn't added till 1963
production start.
The good news is that with publications such as the Corvette Black Book, the
NCRS 1953-1967 Corvette Specifications Guide and the GM 1959 Assembly
Instruction Manual, by comparing your car against the standard configuration of
the 4 optional engines, three transmission options, plus the numerous RPO's, the
car will tell you what it was.
Just remember, owner modifications over the last 61 years may give you
conflicting testimony. You are it's archivist, historian & conservator. Take
pictures.
If your car is a fuel injection car with the engine changed, all the various
components or their previousmounting located under the hood will be where the
AIM required them to be.
Good luck in your investigation
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter
**********
09/23/2020
Hi
I have a 1958 Corvette 283 w/4 bbl. & 3 speed.
It has been taking a break in my barn since 1970ish
I just started cleaning up parts that I took off in 1976 and seeing what I
have.
I have a few questions.
Did GM / Chevrolet put 1957 intakes on the 1958 cars on the assembly line ?
I also have the 7 fin valve covers which from what I understand is put on
"optioned" engines.
Also on passenger side fender there is a red/white/blue emblem bar where the
fuel injection emblem would go on a fuelie.
Attached is a picture of each.
Mine is definitely a 1958 with all the fixings ( hood louvers, trunk Spears,
etc ) correct vin for that year.
Any input on this would be helpful ?
Thank you
Barry
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Barry,
In the 25
years before this rough cut gem started it's break in your barn, ANYTHING is
possible.
If you
really want the real story, you are going to have to let the car itself tell
its own story, part by part, assembly by assembly, using date codes, casting
numbers and GM part numbers. You will need a 1958 GM Assembly Manual to
determine location of windshield washer reservoir & vacuum cannister,
washer tubing, tachometer drive, tach RPM Redline, engine block and a host
of other components to determine whether or not it could possibly be the
rare FI car you are hoping for.
I would
guess that this car was run hard, abused badly & put away wet long
before you two met. It likely needs EVERYTHING, and there is no cheap easy
solution here.
Sorry to
be a wet blanket but somebody had to say it. Might as well be me.
I
resurrected a 1960 ex drag race car from a barn 20 years ago.
I still
have it. I still love it.
Best of
luck with your dream car.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: To my knowledge no 57 intake
was used on a 58, even early production models. The intake shown is a
57. The correct casting for a 58 is 3746829. The valve covers
are 7 fin covers used on 58s, but not the 230HP. The emblem shown is
interesting - it looks like the FI plate used on the 65 model but that
emblem had a "fuel injection" script on it. What is your
engine and head casting numbers and car serial number? It appears you
have a car that has been kept alive using parts from several cars - if you
are pursuing an NCRS numbers matching car - get out your checkbook. If
however you just want to restore your car to a period correct car (correct
CI engine, paint color, interior, etc) it opens up a wide variety less
expensive options. I have a 58 that I am very proud of, I restored it
in 1980. It does not have a Duntov award, but it has been viewed and
blessed by Mr. Dontov personally (in 1984). The SACC Tech panel is the
best source for info I know. If I can be of any help, don't hesitate
to call. - John
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
The date code on the intake appears to be "G" so that
would be July of 57. It is possible that it could have been installed on
an early 58.
I am pretty sure the emblem is not something that would be installed on an
early Corvette, it looks similar to the 65 Corvette FI emblem.
Is your 58 an early car?
Verle
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry
Your intake is a 57. Note the casting date is c 12 57.....march
12 1957. 58 cast number is 3746829.
Your valve covers are 1959. Off set holes with high script
corvette. 58 is the same but with low script.
F I emblem bar appears to be from a 65 corvette.
Chip Werstein
**********
09/21/2020
I installed a Jim Meyer Racing IFS on my 60 and now they
are out of business and I need Upper and lower control arm bushings. I was
hoping someone in your club might have some info on these.
Signed, Desperate in WI
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Ned,
Corvette
Central in Sawyer, MI has been selling this C-1 suspension upgrade for several
years. I'd give them a call at 800-345-4122 and see if they can help you with
this.
Good luck,
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC.
**********
09/20/2020
I own a 1959 that has speedometer and
tachometer cables that do not rotate smoothly. I lubed both cables by
rubbing dry graphite along their length, less the last inch or more. It
helped the speedometer until I sped to 55-60 mph, the speedo needle really
bounced and before I pulled to the side, the needle dropped and stopped
working. The tach needle also bounces periodically. I have
disconnected both and now have a project ahead of me to remove them and send
them for repair.
Searching speedometer on this Technical Help
page really helped. A nice company in Colorado made a 18” test cable I
used to spin the speedo. Under finger twisting speed, I heard the same
bearing squeal emitted when the speedometer needle dropped.
Now to the question: Under an age old
topic, does one dry lube or grease lube speedo/tachometer cables? The
gentleman who made my test cable said that graphite will inevitably work its
way to the end of the cable and get in the speedometer. I just did what
my father taught me and used graphite powder.
Eric
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Eric
I had the same issue. Tried repeatedly to lube and clean the cable.
There was no change.
A local speedometer shop inspected it and replaced the bearings and all was
good. There were no issues with the cable. Hopefully, the speedo
did not break the last time it was connected.
Joe
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Eric: Sorry that this response
is late. I have 12 cars and have had speedometer problems like you describe many
times. I normally am able to fix the problem myself. I will tell you
how I do it.
The speedometer and tachometer cables must be lubricated with a light weight
grease. Graphite is not a proper lubricant for speedometer cables.
Years ago, the AC division of General Motors sold ST-640 Speedometer Cable
Lubricant. It comes in a metal toothpaste type tube and is white and is
very soft. I recently asked a speedometer repair show what to use, and
they said to use a light weight general purpose grease. Use Lubriplate
grease if you can find it.
To lubricate it, pull the cable from the casing and inspect it for damage.
Then use your fingers to apply the grease to the cable as you push it back into
the casing.
Now for your other problem. The squealing is caused by the speedometer or
tachometer bearings being dry. In my experience, you can lubricate these
bearings yourself. Check the bearings for excess wear by turning the shaft
end with your fingers and check for up and down movement, indicating excess wear
that will require a rebuild. If there is no evidence of excess wear, drill
a small hole, around 1/16", in the top of the casing just at the end of the
threads where the cable nut threads on. There are two bronze bushings that
support the speedometer shaft, and this will put you at about the middle between
them. Inject a small amount of oil into this hole. I use a
hypodermic needle. Use 50 weight engine oil or 90 weight gear oil.
Originally, these bushings were greased, but it is hard to get grease into this
hole and to where the bushings are using this method. Rock the speedometer
back and forth to get the oil to the bearings. Spin the shaft with your fingers
to make sure it is free. When in operation, the cable spins at 1000 rpm at
60 mph, so good lubrication is a must. The tachometer cable spins at half
engine speed, because the distributor/generator adapter operates at half engine
speed. If you have a shop rebuild the tachometer, make sure that they
calibrate it to read twice shaft speed.
Whenever you hear the speedometer or tachometer make a squealing sound,
immediately pull over and disconnect the cable . This vibration can
greatly damage the inner workings of the speedometer in very short order.
It sounds like your speedometer has suffered internal damage and lubrication
will not help it. With the speedometer or tachometer, if you spin the
shaft in the correct direction with your fingers and the pointer does not move,
you will have to have the unit rebuilt. You can make a test adapter out of
a nail. Pound the end square with an hammer and use an electric drill to
spin the shaft at varying speeds to make sure that the pointer moves smoothly.
If not, you will have to have it rebuilt to fix this.
Corvette Central offers a rebuilding service. Mechanical speedometers and
tachometers with a cable have not been manufactured for many years.
Everything is electronic today,
and it is hard to find someone locally who has the parts and knowledge to
properly rebuild and calibrate your units.
Larry Pearson
**********
09/19/2020
Do you have any hints on replacing rear shocks on a 1962? I have a customer
with a very nice black/red 250HP/PG. The problem is very little access
to the top bolts. Fortunately, the left shock broke off at the top and removal
won’t be a problem. My thought for the right one is to remove the muffler
for access and use a zizz wheel to cut through the shock at the bottom rubber.
Tightening will also be a problem. There isn’t room for turning the nut with
a wrench. You could hold the nut from turning and turn the shock but it would
be hard to get it tight. Is it possible to get access to the top nut with a
hole through the body? What am I missing?
Thank you.
BTW, by father had a new Corvette in ’57 and traded it for a new one in
’59. I had a ’66 coupe I bought for $2100 in 1972 and put a 370HP 350 in
it. Had to sell it for $12K in 1984 when I started a family.
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Spencer
You need a copy of the AIM Section J Sheet 3. Look at View A on that
page.
In the folding top compartment behind the gas tank cover, there is an access
hole that allows a socket or wrench to be put on top of the shock.
Joe
Update: The access hole is correct for a 1957. Later C1s at
some point eliminated the access hole. One can still assemble the shock
from below by twisting it to tighten the bolt.
**********
I am hoping that you would have help/instructions for removing the horn
button on a 1962 Corvette.
-Charlie
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Charlie,
The horn button is retained inside a split spring steel stamping that also acts
as the horn contact by three equally spaced retainer detents under the button
face.
Insert a flat tool that won't scratch the steering wheel on both sides of
the button and pry up. It should pop off.
Good luck,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
09/08/2020
I just recently purchased a 3 speed transmission mount bracket from Corvette
Central. When I went to install it I discovered that the bolt holes in
the bracket were about 2 or possibly 2 1/8 inches on center, and my
transmission mount holes are 3 1/4 inches on center. I believe that is
the measurements of a 4 speed transmission mount bracket. My
transmission main case has a casting number of 3845122 and is dated G 9 56.
The side cover is 3731911. but the tail shaft housing is cast 3855710 and is
dated D 28 5. I assume that I have the wrong tail shaft housing, but
what do I have? Is it from a 1955 Corvette? Would I be able to use
a 4 speed transmission mount bracket, or should I try to find a 1956 tail
shaft housing?
Thanks,
Michael

From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Michael
You have a few different items. The main case is a 56, but cast in
Tonawanda and was never used in a Corvette. The 3855710 tail was used
on 1965 Corvettes.
I do not know about that tail mounting arrangement. The correct 3
speed will mount to the C1 tailhousing. I am using a early 3 speed
shifter with a later C1 tailhousing. You should be able to acquire a
later C1 tailhousing. The 1956 3722946 tail may be pricey.
The
3 speed shifters mount to the transmission tail without a bracket. The
shifter is arranged with holes to match the tailhousing. Check the AIM
and you will see that.
The
bracket at the bottom of the transmission is different for a Muncie 318 3
speed and a BW T-10. The height is greater for a BW but the spacing is
the same. That bracket you purchased may be the plate that allows
using a Muncie M-20 with a C1 transmission crossmember. You would need
to describe if it is a flat plate with four holes in it.
**********
09/05/2020
Hello guys,
I have had a 58 Corvette for many years. When I bought the car it had an
aftermarket scissor jack and never really did anything with it. I have
recently found an original Jack correct for my car. The bad news is the jack
(the block thaty the screw goes into) is stripped. The screw is fine and I
think has Acme threads? Any idea how to repair or who might be able to help?
Thanks!
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Fred - I too have a 58 (great
choice) and an original scissor jack. Although my jack is in mint
condition - I would never use it. A scissor jack is a very dangerous tool.
If you need to raise your 58 for any service, use a hydraulic floor jack.
Use the scissor jack for show only.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Fred: I own a 60 Corvette that
I purchased from the original owner. It had the original jack and it had
probably been used only once and it had completely fallen apart. The
original jacks that came with these cars are dangerous to use and are
recommended for show judging only. Even the reproductions of this jack are
not recommended to jack up the car, only for NCRS judging. My 62 came with
a far superior jack of a different and better construction. The
aftermarket jack that your car came with is undoubtedly a much better and safer
jack to use for everyday driving. I question that the jack you have
is a correct original one because for the threads to strip, it would have been
used many times, and that is not possible with the original jacks.
If you are having your car NCRS judged, and if, indeed, your jack and jack
handle are correct looking and will pass a visual check, leave it the way it is.
NCRS judging does not check the jack operation, only the look. You
shouldn't be able to see that the internal threads are stripped by looking at
the jack.
Larry Pearson
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Fred,
Over the years of owning a C-1, I have learned that a good aftermarket scissor
jack is:
1) visually undisguisable from an original if you remove limiter
tubes over the Acme screw,
2) they are unsafe to use for anything more than car show browny
points
3) most guys carry an small aluminum floor jack for emergencies.
The Acme nut in your aftermarket would most likely fit the original screw but
tearing down both jacks to swap parts means reassembling the original and which
will still be unsafe to use.
My advise, use the modified aftermarket jack or put the original jack in the
spare tire well under the 6.70-15 bias ply spare for show or points. I've never
seen an owner asked to actually jack-up the car with it.
Keep a real floor jack for emergencies.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
09/02/2020
Does anyone sell the drain plugs below the fuel tank on a 1959 corvette
Thanks
From: John
Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The only openings I know
of under the tank are for ventilation - no plugs
**********
08/29/2020
Hello,
I am building a 327 340hp engine for my
’62 Corvette. It has a NOM 283 dressed to look like a 300hp 327 engine
currently and it originally a 300hp car.
I figured it would be nice to have a correct,
though not #s matching 327 340hp style engine in my car. Things are
progressing pretty well except for the issue with the oil pan. I sourced a
6qt trap door SHP oil pan w/windage tray; though now my engine builder is
stating it won’t clear the ’62 suspension/steering. Apparently, this
pan is actually from a 1963 engine and while it will be fine on the engine
itself, it won’t work in the car.
Are the ’62 and earlier SHP pans specific enough that a
’63 and up SHP pan will not fit (IE interfere with the car)? Do I need
to try and find a ’62 and earlier pan? It took me a long time just to
find this one. Thanks for any help on this!
Greg
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Greg
62 corvette pans are 5 guart. Engines hold 6 quarts....5 in pan, 1 in filter.
All 62 pans are the same 2 step configuration but the 340 and 360 pans have the
trap door. They were also used in eariler cars. Dont think 63 pan will work. 62
style pans are out there but getting difficult to find. You could use the 250,
300 hp pan as it looks the same from the outside. Most likely Dave Sokolowski in
Calif. Has a few of both styles. He advertises in the ncrs driveline.
Chip Werstein

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
My GM Parts manual shows the 57-62 oil pan to be a five quart pan #3789629.
These pans are commonly referred to as three step pans (the third step
is required to clear the steering) For a visual see the following
link
ebay.com/i/362969807298?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
**********
08/25/2020
I have 61 Corvette with Dual
Point Distributor and Dual Quads I replaced the Dual Point with Pertronix
91183 Ignitor 11 in place of the Dual Points.
The car start right up. Idle great, but under a load it misfired and shut off
while driving it. Called Pertonix they total me that the mechanical advance is
Not working. Could this be possible. Has anyone install Pertronix in place of
dual points?
Thanks,
Glenn
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glen
You must use a pertronix coil with their ignition system. Also, the pertronix
requires 12 volts to trigger it so if you are using a ballast resister connect
the trigger wire to the 12 volt side.
Chip Werstein
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
From Pertronix installation instructions:
1. IMPORTANT: Read all instructions before starting
installation.
2. DO NOT USE WITH SOLID CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES.
3. The Ignitor II ignition can be used
in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 0.45 ohms or greater.
4. All external resistors must be removed to achieve optimum
performance from the Ignitor II ignition system.
5. The Ignitor II is compatible as a trigger for most
electronic boxes.
**********
08/24/2020
I have a 54 and when I open hood and pull up
I need assistance from another person to pull towards cockpit
It seems in a bind
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The hood hinge leaves a lot to be desired. It seems to bind just as you
lift the hood. Depending how worn the
hinges are. I know of no adjustment to fix this problem short of the
hood stops that fix where the hood rests.
From: Verle Randolph, Red River
Chapter VP: It may need the hood hinges adjusted.
Lubrication on the hinges helps.
Verle
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: The hood support can stick.
**********
08/19/2020
I have a 1960 that has been sitting for 42 years. I just started
cleaning and pulling numbers from under the hood items. I know the VIN
plate is suppose to be spot welded to the steering column, stamped and made from
stainless steal. While cleaning the dirt off the VIN plate I noticed it
was loose, I pried it up and discovered it was glued on. I took a magnet
to it and it does stick. Does a magnet stick to the VIN tags for this year
vet as true stainless does not.
Thanks
Steve
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Steve: I own a 1960 and
checked the VIN tag last
night with a magnet, and it is very much magnetic. The question is
why was your tag glued on? The car could be stolen, of course. Or it
could have been in a severe accident that required that the steering column be
replaced and the tag re-attached to the replacement column. If the engine
is the original one, the VIN number is stamped on the front pad of the block
along with with the manufacturing date code and horsepower/transmission code.
The VIN number is also stamped in large characters on the top of the frame under
the driver's seat. Reading this requires that the body be somehow lifted
above the frame in this area about one inch so you can read it. If the
frame is badly rusted, this number might not be readable at all.
If you are planning to have this car judged by NCRS, they very thoroughly
evaluate this tag and its attachment. They don't pry on it to verify that
it is spot welded on, and you can epoxy it on in such a way that it looks
correct. Also, they make portable spot welders and it might be possible to
have this tag properly spot welded in place. There is an industry that
reproduces this tag and apparently it is not exact and can be detected as a
replacement. NCRS will not judge the car if this tag is suspect. You
will be required to have your DMV verify the car's VIN, and this gets very
messy. If you plan to have NCRS judge your car with this re-attached tag,
do not discuss anything about this issue with the judges. Let them figure
it out.
Larry Pearson
**********
08/15/2020
Will a 3rd member out of a 1962 nova fit in a 1959 corvette?
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: I have never tried
it but I believe it is the same as Corvettes and tri five Chevies. Probably a
tall gear.
Verle
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Wishbone: The 1955 through
1964 Chevrolet full size sedans use a differential assembly that will fit your
1959 Corvette. The 1962 Novas were much smaller than the full size sedans
and had a four and six cylinder engine option. In my opinion, it is highly
unlikely that the differential supplied with this car was the same size as that
used in the full sized sedans. The full size sedans came equipped with
everything from a larger six cylinder engine to a 409 W motor.
Larry Pearson
**********
08/14/2020
I started the job of installing new king pins in my older restoration,
1962. This is a project that I have put off for a while mostly because
of being too busy until now and the fear of messing up a restored car.
After just completing the front end rebuild on my 1956, i discovered that king
pins aren't such a hard job to replace. Within less than an hour I was
nearly ready to remove the first king pin in the '62 and then the project came
to a halt. I couldn't get the lock ping to move and be allowed to be
driven out. I tried hitting it by first placing a piece of hard wood
against it and hitting that with a good sized hammer and then with a brass
shaft and the hammer. It still won't move. I sprayed rust buster
on it and also sprayed some down from the top of the king pin and decided to
wait until morning an hope that it frees up. I'm guessing that I am not
the first one to encounter this problem. Is there any tricks that I
haven't thought of to free my lock pin?
Thank you,
From: Joe LeMay, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
The lock pin you are refering to is the pin driven through the spindle support
and secured with a ~5/16 nut?
You may have to hit the king pin up and down to try to loosen the lock pin.
I may have been overtightened when it was installed and is now stuck.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Advisor: I agree, you
may have to drive the king pin up and/or down a little.
If penetrating fluids and such like don't work, try a strong solvent in case
someone used locktite. Not likely but who knows. I like B-12 carburetor
cleaner for this.
Might also try a?? C clamp. Tighten C clamp on the pin making sure the back
side is open so the pin can move. Get C clamp as tight as you can, then strike
the C clamp with a hammer.?? Grasping at straws here.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Sounds like you have a problem.
Were you able to remove the nut holding the pin in ? If so you
might try running a nut back on the pin (run it on several threads short of
seating). Use the nut as your impact surface - not the pin itself.
This way you won't risk mushrooming the pin. If penetrating oil
and a brass rod don't free it - the only other suggestion is heating the
steering knuckle to expand it. To do this you have to completely
disassemble the knuckle.
Thank you all for your help. I am able to easily remove the nut and
the lock washer and I have put the nut back on and have been hammering on it
by using a one inch piece of brass that is about six inches long. i
have used a C clamp and hammered on that as suggested. I was thinking
of heating around it and I have a question for Mr. Spencer. Why would
I have to remove remove the knuckle before I heat it? Is it because it
would have to get so hot that it would burn the grease seals on the control
arm shafts?
Thank you,
Michael

Access and mass. I know its a pain to remove the knuckle from the
brake assembly and A-frames, but it allows you to work on the knuckle on
your workbench - not the car. This gives you very good access and it
removes the part from the car (I'm very nervous with a torch around my
fiberglass cars). Additionally - it removes any additional mass which
draws heat. All you want to heat is the
knuckle
around the lock pin.
**********
08/06/2020
Before I install my harmonic balancer I wanter to check to make sure that I
have the correct one. My balancer has a casting number of 37680 on the
inside of the center section and although it has been painted black, I would
assume that the balancer on a 265 cubic inch engine should be painted the red
engine color. So do I have the correct balancer and am I correct in
thinking that it should be painted red? It is a stock 1956, 265 cubic inch.
Thank you for your help.
>
> Michael
From: Verle Randolph, Red River
Chapter VP: I looked up that casting number and it does
not look like what I think a 56 265 balancer should look like.
Here is a very ugly one:
From: Joe LeMay, SoCal
Chapter Advisor: The photo below is similar to the typical factory
balancer but there are some differences. The typical one has a 3/8"
pulley riveted to the balancer and two threaded holes to remove the balancer
from the motor. See the attachment. There is no separate part number
stamped on the riveted pulley. This pulley is also used on 1957 corvettes
except the 270 and 283 HP motors. 270 uses a riveted 1/2" pulley with
the same balancer configuration (rare to find). 283 HP uses a 1/2"
pulley bolted to the balancer in three places. It would look like the
photo below. All balancers with riveted pulleys are painted engine color.
Balancer with bolted pulley is engine color. The bolted pulley is black.
Thank you for the information that you supplied regarding the 1956 harmonic
balancer. I am sorry that I didn't include the horsepower of my engine,
but it sounds like in 1956 all horsepower engines used the same balancer with
a 3/8 inch pulley that was riveted on. Is that correct? Now I know
that the one I have is incorrect and possibly aftermarket. Do you have
any suggestions where I could purchase the correct one, and if I find one
without the pulley, could I get a new pulley riveted back on?
It has been many years since I have worked on this 1956 project and when I
would order new parts or buy used ones back then, I would put them away until
the day came that I needed them. It seems that I had put away two new
clutch forks. One has a oblong hole at the end where the linkage
attaches and the other one is slotted and they are both bent differently.
The assembly manual shows the one with the oblong hole in its diagram, but
parts catalogs show the one with the slot in it as being the one for
1955-1962. Can you please help me out with this question? I would
send pictures if I knew that there was a way to do that.
Thank you,
Michael
From: Joe LeMay, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
Damper Doctors and Damper Dudes are two who would have one and do rebuilds.
They had what I was looking for. You can try the internet or ebay but that
one may require rebuilding, or the pulley may be bent.
There are two different clutch forks and bellcrank to fork pushrods.
1956 clutch linkage rod had a spherical end and was secured with a spring
clip to the clutch fork. There would be
a dish in the fork to accomodate the rod. 1957 clutch linkage rod had
a flattened end and was secured with a clevis pin to the clutch fork.
The fork has a rectangular slot. The 1957 configuration is shown in
the Paragon catalog. The 1956 parts are rare. The typical
adjustment swivel that attaches to the bellcrank is also rare. It will
be long enough to accommodate a coil spring that is shown in the assembly
manual. The current repros are for 1958 and up and are shorter.
They do not use the spring.
**********
08/03/2020
1958 Corvette. Parking brake issues, parked with parking brake
off since 1977.
Handle, shaft will not rotate. The shaft will not pull outward.
Is frozen … The pin that sets towards the fire wall is loose.
-Wayne
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: If the handle will not rotate,
then the shaft must be frozen in the conduit. Your only recourse is to
get penetrating oil in there to free it. The conduit is open on top -
you can use a can of penetrating oil to apply the oil directly to the shaft
instead of spraying it. Otherwise you need to remove the brake shaft
assembly and soak it in kerosene.
**********
07/30/2020
> I would like to purchase a 1956 trunk lid from someone
> Do you know anyone?
>
> Thanks
> Rob
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: Rob,
This should be real easy.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/body-frame/fiberglass-rear/56-60-trunk-lid-press-moulded-141093?returnurl=%2fc1-53-62%2fbody-frame%2ffiberglass-rear%2f%3fcount%3d27'
Ecklers, Chicago Corvette, Mid-America, et al sell the same parts.
If you're looking for an original, Paragon has one. https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-349779-trunk-lid.aspx
Otherwise, hit the internet and remember- Condition, Condition, Condition. The
better it is, the more it costs.
Good luck.
Bill
**********
I have a 1957 corvette I am reassembling and I am trying to figure out
correct routing of headlamp and parking lamp harness routing and location
of clip for lamp to harness connector if you have any photos or documents.
From:
John Spencer, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Here is the routing for a 58 -
don't have an illustration for a 57 but they are basically the same I
believe.

From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Bill: You need to purchase a
copy of the 1957 Corvette Assemble Instruction Manual (AIM), Reprints are
available from the major Corvette parts suppliers. These manuals were used
by the Corvette assembly plant to direct it on how to build the car.
You want Section 12, page 12. This page shows how the chassis wiring
harnesses were routed in the engine compartment of the car. Other pages
show how the rear of the car wiring was routed, and how the under dash wiring
was routed.
Larry Pearson
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: The routing
shown for the 58 is the same for a 57. Headlight wiring clips are very
high, above the radiator on the grill side of the radiator support. Some
may be broken from bending too many times.
Verle
**********
07/28/2020
I am currently putting all the chrome etc. on my freshly painted 1960
corvette. I have new emblem kits for both the front and back. My
question is: where do you place the foam gasket; between the bezel and body or
between the body and the actual emblem or between the emblem and the backing
plate? Thanks in advance.
Rewards,
Book
From: John Spencer,
Red River Chapter Advisor:
Front Emblem assembly order (from outside surface);
Bezel-Body-Foam Gasket-Emblem-Backing Plate. See Illustration
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Book: The chrome bezel goes on
the outside surface. On the inside surface, the order is: Gasket,
emblem, and backing plate. There are special self threading winged nuts to
hold everything together. Pre-thread the special winged nuts on the three
studs on the bezel to make it easier to install them with the bezel in place.
Corvette Central sells a special tool to tighten these nuts, which you really
need. They do make a PAL self threading nut with a hex head which is a lot
easier to use, but it will not pass NCRS judging.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/23/2020
I have a customers 1962 C1 with a torn up clutch cross shaft bushing.I
have to question the direction the bushing is installed and wether it
has the correct shouldered bolt in place.He keeps tearing the rubber out
of the bushing.Any help,picture or otherwise is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance Don
From: John Spencer,
Red River Chapter Advisor: See illustration. Shoulder bolt is
Paragon Corvette P/N 628K ($10.00).
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Don: The bushing assembly
consists of an outer sleeve that is pressed into the cross shaft with the
shoulder directed toward the engine, a rubber insulator, and an inner bushing.
In my experience with my two 62's, the rubber part rapidly disintegrates leaving
the inner bushing in direct contact with the outer metal sleeve. This is
particularly the case if you are using a high performance Borg & Beck
pressure plate which takes lots of pedal pressure to activate. I have
found that it works fine without the rubber part. It makes me wonder if
the original factory part used a more durable rubber compound than the service
replacement units.
If this bothers you, I strongly suggest that you purchase a replacement bushing
kit from Danchuck, the 55-57 Chevy parts supplier. Go online to see it.
Their catalog number is #345, and it currently costs $16.95. The heart of
their bushing kit is two identical bushings custom made of Delrin plastic.
These do not press into the cross shaft, they install with one on each side of
the cross shaft hole in place of the original pressed in outer sleeve.
Nothing is pressed in, so it is easy to service if it wears out. You must
remove the old outer sleeve to make room for this kit. I have been using
one of these kits for about 25 years in my "beater" 62 and have had no
problems with it at all. Of course it will not pass NCRS judging.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/22/2020
Hi!
Would like to know the exact measurements for placement of the front badge on my
1960.
Bought the car with 61 emblems.
VIN says it is a 1960.
Getting painted and the painter needs to know the placement to make the hole for
the correct emblem.
Thanks! Any help is appreciated.
Cindy
From:
Brad Bean, SACC President:
Although only one year apart, there are a number of significant differences
between a '60 and '61 Corvette. If it's a '60, and the front end is
original, the holes to accommodate the '58 - '60 Corvette emblem should be
there, even if it has since been filled. Unless the front clip has been
replaced a good body shop should be able to detect the hole's location.
Other than the front end emblem, are there any other signs the body differs
from a 1960 Corvette? IE: grill vs. "teeth" in the grill
opening or "ducktail" rear end vs. curved style?
Before you start drilling a large hole in your car, let's try to make sure it
is a '60. As you are probably aware, production of 1961 Corvettes began
in September of 1960. Do you mind sharing your VIN #? (Your VIN
will not be published.)
(continued)
That make sense as the front end clips from '58 thru '62 were interchangeable
and they were probably more concerned with getting it back on the road, than
about making it original.
Because of it's early accident and repair you have a unique car (with the
'62 emblems). It's your decision on whether you want the car to look
original or to reflect it's unique history, as to if you replace the emblem
with that of a '60. Obviously,
if you plan to have the car judged, original is the way to go.
However, an argument for keeping it as is would be... it would be a
conversation piece at any show where people know their C1s.
A '60 as early as yours, should have some interesting part combinations as
they used up left over stock from '59 on the early '60s. Would be
interesting to see if the body shop used those parts or the hardware from
the '62 donor clip...
Unfortunately, we are in NC and my '60 and reference materials are in
FL. If no one has answered your question by the time I return to
FL, after August
1st, I'll research the measurements for you.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Cindy,
I 100 %
agree with Brad's advise that you determine exactly what year your car is
before you start modifying anything. The differences between a 1960 and a
1961 should be instantly obvious to most Corvette folks.
The rear
of the body from doors back are uniquely different.
Rear
bumpers & tail lights are uniquely different.
Interior
upholstery is uniquely different.
The seats
are different design.
1960 has removable seat cushion & back with wide vertical pleats.
1961 has fixed cushions and narrow vertical pleats.
So please
use the internet to review pictures of both before proceeding.
Years
ago, I bought a 1962 Corvette basket case that had been poorly repaired with
a 1958-60 front upper panel.
Bad
things have happened to 60 year old cars.
(continued) Cindy,
Front & rear emblems are the same on a 1960. Unless the rear emblem is
perfect, you might want to buy 2 complete emblem assemblies to avoid
comments after you get done that they are "different".
Attached picture is my early 1960 during restoration.

The emblem is centered on the front panel as shown.
The hole diameter is about 1/8 inch diameter larger than the I.D. of the
emblem outer trim ring.
Use the emblem gasket as a guide for locating the hole.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Cindy: I know of no source
that gives the measurements of exactly where the large round hole goes to
accommodate the 1960 emblem. The problem is that all the front fiberglass
edges are rounded and there are no sharp edges to make measurements from. The
hole in the trunk lid is exactly the same size and shape as the nose emblem, and
they both use the exact same emblem. The hole is exactly centered between
the headlights, and all you need is the vertical measurement I own a 1958
original front clip, and a complete 1960 car, and I will make the
measurements tonight
and email them to you tomorrow.
Your painter can paint the car the way it is and add the round emblem hole later
if time is a problem. Be sure to fill in all the 1962 emblem holes before
painting the car, because none of them are used for the 1960.
Larry Pearson
*********
07/19/2020
I recently changed the engine oil and filter on my 1961 Corvette and have
noticed a slight oil leakage at the oil filter canister bolt head.
Do you know of a way to eliminate this leakage? I don’t remember leakage
at this location prior to the oil change. I am fairly certain I have
sufficient torque on the bolt and have observed no oil leaking at the cannister
to engine interface. The canister assembly is fairly new (Purchased from
Paragon in 2004). The original canister bolt to canister was not
integral (Bolt was not attached to the cannister). So I replaced it with
the Paragon canister assembly.
> Thank you,
> Mike
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Mike,
The original style oil filter cannister can be a leakers delight if not
installed properly. The rubber square x-section sealing ring at the top has to
be seated flat without twisting or humps plus the cannister needs to be
installed straight & perpendicular to the engine block sealing surface. The
original detachable cannister bolt should have had a seal under the bolt head
flange to keep the oil from leaking out the bottom.
Your integral bolt cannister should have either a seal under the bolt flange or
sealing grooves formed on the underside of the bolt flange.
Paragon has very helpful customer service people. Since you are local, why not
give them a call at 800-882-4688. I'm sure they would be happy to help you.
Regards,
Bill Huffman, pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
solidaxlecorvettemi.com
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Mike: The original bolt was
held in place with the canister shell with a spring on the inside of the
canister. The bolt did not come out separately from the canister, they are
held together. If the leak is at the bolt head interface with the canister
shell, see if you can work some Teflon pipe thread sealer tape between the bolt
head and the canister shell. This very likely will stop the leak.
On the other end, whenever I change the filter cartridge, I remove the aluminum
"O" ring retainer to remove the old O-ring at the top end. It is
difficult to remove the old rubber O-ring without doing this.
To make the oil filter change a lot less messy, I drilled a hole in the bottom
of the canister and threaded it for a 1/8 pipe plug. There is enough metal
thickness here for the plug to seal and not leak. I use Teflon tape on the
plug threads and never have had a leak. This allows me to completely drain
the old oil out of the canister so when I remove it there is no hot oil running
down my arm and onto my driveway. I only change the filter element every
other time I change the oil, and this allows me to easily drain the old oil out
of the canister. Of course this will fail in NCRS judging if the judges
see it.
Larry Pearson
**********
07/17/2020
Hello,
Need to replace m clutch cross shaft bushing on my '61. I may also have
to remove the clutch cross shaft to check the ball studs or remove the bushing
if it doesn't come out readily. Can I get instructions on both. ST-12 was
unclear in there instructions.
Thanks Larry
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: To remove the cross shaft
requires releasing the tension on the cross shaft helper spring. I have
always placed a pair of large vicegrip pliers (or
medium pipe wrench) on the cross shaft itself, released the clutch
push rod from the cross shaft and allowed the cross shaft to rotate and relax
the spring. Once the spring is removed - disassemble of the cross shaft is
an easy task. take caution here - the cross shaft spring is stout - have a
good grip on the cross shaft with your pliers - make sure you can rotate and
hold the shaft with the pliers before removing the clutch push rod.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Larry: I assume you have a completely stock system with the big assist
spring and the remains of the original bushing, which is pressed into the top
end of the cross shaft. If this is the case, you will have to remove the
cross shaft to remove and replace the bushing. Your car's clutch pedal
system should be exactly like pictured in figure 7, page 6R-4 in ST-12.
If your car is using a diaphragm type pressure plate (not original), the
heavy assist spring is gone, because it is not needed.
The procedure on page 6R-9 is correct for removing the cross shaft. Once
the cross shaft is removed, the bushing outer sleeve must be pressed out of
the cross shaft. I use a socket of the proper size on both sides to
press the sleeve out in a vice. The bushing is composed of three pieces:
the outer sleeve, a rubber insulator, and an inner bushing. The rubber
part disintegrates with age, and that is probably what you are facing.
Everything will work fine without the rubber. Press the service
replacement bushing into the cross shaft using a socket slightly larger that
the one you used to to remove the sleeve. Lubricate both ball pivots
with lots of chassis grease before reinstalling the cross shaft.
Unfortunately there is no grease fitting on the C-1 cross shaft. This
came in 1963. Use the cross shaft installation procedure in ST-12 to
reinstall it.
In my experience, the rubber insulation rapidly disintegrates, and back to
square one. Danchuck sells a two piece bushing made of Delrin that
replaces the original rubber insulated bushing. Their catalog number is
#345. I am using one of these in my 62, and it is completely trouble
free. It won't pass NCRS judging, however.
Larry Pearson
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I wrote a short article on how to fabricate a press out of a bolt and sockets.
It is in September
2019 Solid SCOOP. (Does that get distributed?)
The hardest part is compressing the gorilla spring. Remove the bellcrank
to clutch fork pushrod fitting. Use a pipe wrench on the bellcrank tube,
or a large open end wrench on the bellcrank arm to relieve the pressure the
spring creates on the bushing bolt, remove the bolt, and release the spring
pressure.
If you need the article, I can send something.
Joe
**********
07/08/2020
It seems like everyone is having questions regarding their 1962 at this time.
I have had mine now for 45 years and I have just changed my front wheel
bearings to roller bearing that i purchased from Zip. My problem is that
even though I pushed the inner races into the hub to the shoulder, I can't
seem to keep the inner bearing seal in place easily while I slide the hub onto
the spindle. If it isn't slid on smoothly the bearing seal comes off and
it can be floating in there and not allowing you to adjust the wheel bearing
properly or even to know that it hasn't stayed in place. Has anyone else
ever had this problem, or does anyone have a solution to this problem?
Thank you,
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River VP:
Compare the new seal to the old seal, are the dimensions the same?
I had a similar problem some years ago on a different car, the seal was
"similar" but just enough difference it would not stay in place.
I bought from my normal parts store, they knew me so they worked with me to
find out what the problem was. Turned out the new seal was actually made for a
completely different car. It was very similar but did not work. We looked at
several different boxes until we found the correct seals.
Verle
**********
07/07/2020
VIN number check. We have a 61 vette left to us, no title, no tag on steering
column. I understand there might be a stamp on the frame under the drivers
seat. Is there a way to check this without removing the body or cutting hole
in the floor. Thanks for any input on this matter.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: My 58 has the VIN stamped on the
frame. It is located under the driver's seat area on the top of the frame.
Depending on how much space you have between the frame and underbody, you
can see it with a light and mirror.
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: I checked my VIN stamp on a 1957.
It is located at midlength of the door. You will need to loosen all the
body bolts (12), and remove the five- left side nuts. Put a 18" piece
of 2X4 on the floor between the frame and rocker panel. Jack up the body
about 1 1/2 inches. Clean the top of the frame in that area and use a
mirror taped to the floor under the frame rail. With the correct lighting,
you should be able to take photos.
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Does the car have the original engine? If so the last 5 digits of
the vin will be stamped on the pad along with the engine assembly date.
However, with the tag missing it may have been a theft recovery and the original
engine may be long gone.
Chip Werstein .
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
In addition to trying to get a photograph, which will be a mirror image, not
a positive, I suggest that a pencil rubbing be attempted.
Larry Pearson
From: Verle Randolph, Red River
Chapter VP:
I was able to read my frame stamp by inserting a wood wedge to lift the floor
board a little. Used sand paper to clean the frame, wiped it off and could
read VIN with mirror and light. Might help to unbolt the driver seat from
floor to make it a little more flexible.
Verle
From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC
Secretary:
I had the same problem on my '54. In CA they have to verify the
"original" VIN # before the issue plates. Joe is right, the
VIN # is stamped on the top of the frame just below the mid of the drivers
seat. It is about 1" clearance between the frame and the body fiberglass.
I did not raise the body and inserted my finger and found the stamping. I
sanded the # and put chalk dust on the # and flat wiped it clean with a cloth.
Then as Joe said, I took a dental mirror and a flashlight to explore. I was
able to read the # and I got an "adda- boy" from the inspector at
the CHP!
Good luck,
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
I have owned my '62 for over 50 years. The top is rarely used. I
would like to know what I can lubricate the bows with that won't stain the soft
top.
Thank you ,
Bud
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Bud,
WD-40 brand
makes a spray White Lithium grease that has a 6 inch application nozzle
that I used to lube the rotating joints in my soft top frame.
Use gentle
pressure on the release button, put a rag behind the frame to catch the
overflow and wipe off the excess grease.
Don't
overdo it and you shouldn't have an issue with the grease staining the top.
Remember, it's easier to add more grease periodically that deal with the
collateral damage of using too much.
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bud: The absolutely critical point needing lubrication is the pivot
point over the center of the side windows. Without lubrication, this
joint will seize up and bend or break in two the section that goes to the
front header when the top is raised. I do not recommend any spray grease
because it is very hard to get grease to work its way into the joints. I
use 30 weight engine oil in a 20 cc hypodermic. This arrangement allows
you to exactly pinpoint where you are applying the oil. Thirty weight
oil is thin enough that it will easily penetrate all the joints without
getting on the top fabric.
Larry Pearson
**********
7/01/2020
My 62 had the typical gasoline smell. Since
it’s almost 60 years old, I decided to replace the gas tank. I checked
for leaks in the new tank by filling it with water. No leaks. Then
I looked at Joe Calcagno’s website (RareCorvettes.com).
One of the things he does is to take out the filler tube, put the cap
on, turn it upside down and fill it with water. Good way to find leaks.
Luckily, I had 3 gas caps to try. One vented and two unvented.
Here is what I found.
1. New gas filler tubes can be defective.
I sent one back and got another - still bad. They leaked at the joint
between the tube body and the fitting on the end. The new ones weren’t
seal welded, only tack welded. Totally unacceptable. After
going through two of them, I decided to use JB Weld all around the joint on
the outside of one of the new the filler tubes. It worked! Second
time I’ve used JB Weld to fix something (last time it was the weld on the
small aluminum fitting on the bottom of the expansion tank). Works
great. I love that stuff.
2. Most gas caps leak. I used the one
that leaked the least. It was an unvented one. I then JB Welded the
rivet connection on the inside of the gas cap. The rivet holds the
handle on but it is a mechanical connection that gas can leak through. To
finally stop all leaking, I made another rubber gasket to go over the existing
gasket on the inside of the gas cap. (I just found this out after
installing everything and still smelling gas. Even a tiny leak at the
gas cap really smells). The gas cap really fits tight now.
Did some right turn 360’s with a full tank of gas. No leaks. No
smells. BTW, I’ve had an old inner tube for years that I’ve used to
make custom gaskets. Very handy.
3. Installing the fuel sending unit is tricky.
If you don’t do it right, it leaks too. I made the mistake of over
tightening the screws holding the unit on the tank. The gaskets deformed
and leaked. I also made a mistake by installing the ground wire on one
of the screws, the way you’re supposed to. If you install the ground
wire terminal on the screw, you would need an extra gasket. The steel on
steel connection between the terminal and the tank, or between the terminal
and the screw head, leaks. Joe Calcagno recommends soldering the ground
wire to the top of the sending unit, instead. I didn’t have any luck
doing this so I cut off the terminal, stripped the end of the wire and wrapped
the bare wires around the metal fuel tube on the unit. Then I used a
hose clamp to hold it in place.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Charles. I got my first 62 in 1966, and currently have two 62's and one
60. No fumes in any on them. The proper and easy fix is to
completely seal the gas tank cover. There are three large holes in the
fiberglass area under the gas tank area. The area under the gas tank is
a high pressure area when the car is driven and any fumes from a leaky sender
gasket, a broken vent line hose, or the hose connecting the filler tube to the
gas tank will get into the car if the gas tank cover isn't completely
sealed. Use 3M Strip Caulk to seal the edges of the tank cover
perimeter to the car body. Strip Caulk is a black clay-like material
that remains pliable to allow easy removal of the gas tank cover if needed.
Strip Caulk is available in most automotive paint stores.
Gasoline leaks in the gas filler area, as well as rain water, drain directly
under the car via a rubber hose that connects to a fiberglass nipple in the
gas tank area under the drain hole to a hole in the gas tank area floor
directly under the drain hole.. If this hose is missing or broken, then
fumes from the gasoline filler area will end up in the gas tank area and into
the passenger area if the gas tank cover is not completely sealed, as
described above.
Larry Pearson
**********
06/24/20
Hello. We just recently purchased a 1960 with the 4-speed. The
speedometer does not work. The cable turns at the speedometer, but only in
reverse. I haven't looked at the driven gear yet, but was just wondering
if anyone else has seen this issue.
Thanks,
Neil
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
T-10 and early M-20, 21 use a steel drive gear and plastic driven gear.
The driven gear can wear and the teeth are contacting (marginally) in reverse,
and the contact in forward is so little the speedo needle does not move.
Try replacing the driven gear with one that is the same diameter.
If that does not work- The other issue is a mismatch with the drive gear.
There are two drive gear diameters and two driven gear diameters. See
the March
2020 Solid Scoop for my article on speedo gears.
**********
06/14/2020
I would like to know the correct torque specifications for the flywheel and
pressure plate bolts on a 265 cu in engine. Also is locktite recommended
on these bolts?
Thanks,
Mike
From: Joe Lemay, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
The specs I use are 60 for the flywheel and 35 for the pressure plate.
Use medium threadlocker. Do not use permanent.
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Flywheel torque = 65 ft lb, clutch pressure plate = 35 ft lb. (source
- GM Chassis Service Manual)
Locktite not recommended
**********
06/13/2020
I just put a new clutch pressure plate and flywheel in my 62 Vette. I have
the transmission about 1 inch from being up to the bell housing and it is hung
up. Any help?
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP: The usual problem is
misalignment of the clutch plate. If it is not accurately centered on the throw
out bearing the input shaft will hold the transmission an inch away.
This is how many transmission ears are broken, someone tries to pull the
transmission to the bell housing with the bolts.
Remove the transmission and look through the center of the hole and look at the
clutch plate hole and the throw out bearing alignment.
Solution is to remove bell housing, loosen the clutch plate bolts until you can
move the clutch plate and center it. The alignment tool that comes with the
clutch kit is usually plastic and does not do a good job of centering. It often
(usually???) allows the clutch plate to slip down just enough to cause your
problem.
If you have an input shaft from any Chevrolet standard transmission they work
better. If not, do your best to center the clutch plate with the alignment tool
as you tighten the lower two bolts a little. Move the tool in and out. when
centered it should move fairly easy. Keep doing this as you tighten bolts around
the clutch plate to make sure the tool moves. Also, remove the tool and inspect
the alignment visually.
It is a bother but it must be done.
I have bought many very good 4-speeds with broken ears for a cheap price.
Verle
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Lee,
you changed the flywheel. Did you check to make sure the nose bushing fit the
transmission input shaft?
1 inch is about the depth of the nose bushing.
If you did and it fit, does the clutch spline fit the input shaft freely or was
it sticky/tight?
Is the clutch spline symmetrical relative to the plates? If not, the new
clutch plate could be backward.
Did you use an input shaft installation tool to align the flywheel/bushing/
clutch plate/pressure plate assembly before tightening & torqueing the
pressure plate to the flywheel?
Good luck on your installation R & R,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
06/09/2020
Next question: I replaced all 22 front suspension/steering joints when I did
the full restoration a few years ago. Now, 3 of the 22 joints will not
accept new grease and I have confirmed the zerk fitting is passing grease by
removing it and confirmed grease does get through the zerk. So something
appears to be blocking grease passage. One is inboard tie rod joint the
other two are the LH and RH aft upper control arm joint.
Ideas on what I should try to resolve the issue?
Thank you,
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I am having the same issue with the four lower inner fittings. I have not
disassembled the joints but the zerk fittings will pass grease. This is a
complete rebuild done in 2014 and there is about 5000 miles on the car.
I grease it with the car jacked high enough to get under with a creeper.
If I hold the grease gun fitting to the joint as I do for all the other
fittings, all the grease gets rejected. If I brace myself and push the
gun as hard as I can into the fitting, I can get a small amount of grease to
come out of the joint. I am pushing the gun into the fitting with a lot
of pressure; as much as I can create.
I have not tried an air pressure grease gun. I would expect to get more
grease into the fitting as I can push the gun with both hands and not have to
operate the lever. With air pressure and two hands, I hope to clear
whatever it is that is creating the blockage.
From: Verle Randolph, Red
River Chapter VP: I have had this
problem before on a Solid Axle and another vehicle.
One thing that helped me was to remove the zerk and squirt some lubricating oil
in the hole. Jack car up, remove tire, jack stand support. I found better
results by squirting oil several times over two or three days.
My theory is the grease hardens over time, possibly by losing volatile
ingredients. The lubricating oil softens the grease making things work better
and allowing grease to be added through the zerk.
Only other option I know is to dismantle and redo.
Verle
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Mike: I have six early GM cars (three of them are C-1's) with the kind
of suspension our Corvettes have. All the A-arm joints are
"metal to metal" with very tight tolerances when they are new, like
yours are. When the joints get some wear, in my experience, it becomes
easier to inject grease into them due to the increased tolerances. I
have some joints where it takes all my strength to inject grease into them,
but slowly some grease expels from the back of the joint indicating that the
joint is getting properly greased. That is all you can and need to do
with the difficult joints. We are told by GM to grease these suspensions
every 1000 miles. Last resort - Go to a fitness center and train to
improve your upper body strength, and that will make it easier to grease your
car..
Larry Pearson
**********
06/08/2020
I can't figure out how to put the chrome trim pieces on the glove box door.
These two pieces are approx. 12 inches long, 1 inch wide and are positioned
vertically when the door is closed.
I've had this car since 1973 and a '56 before it for 7 years. I've
assembled this door twice before when painting it but can't seem to get it
together this time.
Thanks for your help,
Jim
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The seat separator panel is attached to hinge by the middle bolt holes of the
panel and the top holes of the hinge. It uses #8 clutch head screws.
These screws would be painted body color. The moldings are attached with
four- #8 philips screws through the bottom and top holes.
Parts suppliers will have the trim hardware to retain the molding. It
is the usual hardware to retain body molding. Paragon has the typical
hardware.
The short lower stainless steel trim
moldings are bolted and retained with hex nuts and star washers.
**********
06/07/2020
After draining the radiator and engine block, how do I install 16 new quarts
of coolant? It only seems to accept about 10 quarts.
Thank you,
Michael
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: Even if you open Block Drains (if
you have them) you don't completely drain the block. If you're wanting to
remove all the old coolant, you have to flush the block. This will dilute
what coolant is remaining in the block and if you flush it long enough - replace
the residual coolant with clear water. When adding coolant back - simply
anticipate the amount of clear water in the block to establish your desired
concentration of coolant-to-water.
Note: Heater core will hold 1 Qt.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: When filling an
empty radiator and block you will have a lot of trapped air. Pour in as much as
you can. Leaving the radiator cap off, start the engine and let it run, when the
thermostat opens the level will fall. Keep pouring in water/antifreeze until it
is full. You may have to top off a few times. After a drive where the engine is
thoroughly warmed up. Turn off, let cool down then check the water level, ad as
necessary. You need to open the heater control valve so it can drain or fill.
The Corvette Servicing Guide -P 14-9 at bottom, says 16 qt w/o heater, 17 qt
with heater.
Verle
From:
Chip Werstein, Socal Chapter Advisor:
Mike,
Verle is .most likely correct in his diagnosis of your problem. I
have been aware of potential air lock problems when filling cooling systems for
many years but have never experienced it. I drill two 1/8 inch holes in
the thermostat thin metal mounting flange. This prevents the system from being
sealed up which allows trapped air to escape thereby preventing air locks. Give
it a try.
Chip Werstein
**********
06/05/2020
My
question pertains to 56-57 Corvettes, if the Saginaw transmissions were cast in
Saginaw where were they assembled?, St. Louis. Same with the
rear ends casting in Detroit and assembled in St. Louis, or that is what I read
somewhere who knows where do you have any info on that one?
Thanks,
Kermit
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Although it may be referred to as a Saginaw transmission, there is not such
thing. Muncie 318 transmissions were produced for many years. The
main case that was used in Corvettes was cast in Saginaw. Passenger car
main case was cast in Tonawanda. There are very few ways to tell them
apart.
If you are trying to get your Corvette back to stock appearance, you will want
a Saginaw cast case and gears with a 2:20 first gear ratio. There is
also a Muncie 319 that is a 3 speed with overdrive.
That did not answer the question on where it was assembled, but maybe someone
has that.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
There was a foundry, Saginaw Metal Casting Operations Saginaw, Michigan
1919 , where cases were cast and assembly was done in the Saginaw Transmission
Saginaw, Michigan.
Metal casting for power trains. Engine Blocks. Crankshafts
Manual Transmissions, Originally made the Saginaw 3 and
4-Speed manual transmissions.
The old Saginaw plant was torn down in 2019.
I believe the Corvette plant in St Louis did no major assembly on mechanical
parts. Those parts, engines, transmissions, rear ends, etc came ready to be
installed. The plant did add accessories to those assemblies.
Verle
**********
5/31/2020
Could you clarify something
Re: 1957 Airbox corvettes and exactly what was the factory assembly reference
number for the car option
There seems to be confusion :
All the literature of every type refers to the 1957 Corvette Airbox cars as
OPTION : RPO 579E
As delivered, the car came with the RPO 579E engine and a long
list of other factory-installed pieces that completed the RPO 684
Heavy Duty Racing Suspension etc
The
Corvette Restorer Msgazine : 1957 RPO 579E TACHOMETER 9 2 FALL 1982
page 19 in conjunction with Wilson Swilley article. . He says it is
from Factory Production specifications
THE FACTORY
ASSEMBLY MANUAL JUST SAYS RPO 579 with no letter after it
There apparently references to RPO 649D being the air-box
RPO code in nternal
Duntov document. and also on facebook (i.e. registry of Corvette Race
cars ) a copy of a dealer invoice for one of the "air-box"
corvettes were the line reference on the dealer invoice for the
$726.00 air-box option is RPO579D
So
what is the correct terminlology :
(a)
was RPO 579D the factory reference for just the Air-box option alone
(b)
was there an RPO 579E option before the airbox option (note: Noland
Adams book: GM
instructions for mounting the RPO 579E tachometer)
(c
) was there a change in RPO number during year
THEREFORE
QUESTION IS :
What
exactly does RPO 649 E reference to in terms of factory documents
What
exactly does RPO 649 D reference
to in terms of factory documents
Thanks
for clarification in this matter
William
From: Tom Parsons, Red River Chapter FI expert:
I’ll try to answer the questions as best as I can which were submitted by
William Keogh. Can someone add the people which were listed in the original
email that are not included. I could not get their address to attach.
BUT, the very first issue that needs to be addressed is RPO579E.
THERE IS NOT, AND THERE NEVER HAS BEEN AN RPO579E---------PERIOD!!!
Somehow, someway, back in the stone ages, SOMEONE incorrectly listed the
“Airbox” option as RPO 579E----------------AND IT HAS JUST STUCK ALL THESE
YEARS-----------------INCORRECTLY!!! The correct option number for the 1957
Corvette with the fresh air duct for the fuel injector is RPO 579D.
That is what it was in the beginning, and always has been. The publications,
“Armchair Experts” and subsequent listings for RPO 579E have been WRONG
FOR OVER 60yrs!!!!! Back in the 50s when I first became aware of
fuel injected Corvettes and in the 70s when I finally got a chance to become
involved with FI, the “E” never actually made sense to me, but I could
never come up with a reason for it. Fast forward to 2007 and Key Kayser’s
books (Vol I and Vol II on fuel injection). For fuel injection aficionados, if
you do not have these books, you are missing the boat! Once and for all, Ken
has cleared the air regarding RPO 579D (erroneously “E”). Not only does he
totally clarify the misconception, but he does it with GM documentation. He
also clarifies some additional misconceptions. ALL listings for the fuel
injected engines with the hydraulic cam have also been reversed. RPO 579A is
the3sp (or manual transmission) RPO 579B is the Powerglide. And an additional
support for the 579D as being the correct RPO for the 57 Airbox, the listings
for 58-59-60 with a solid lifter car are RPO 579D. More support that RPO 579E
for 57 was, and always has been wrong!!!
Now, back to RPO 579D. MOST people here probably know that it was more than
just a SOLID LIFTER ENGINE with a special duct to direct
cooler to the injector. It was a package-------------IT ONLY CAME ONE
WAY! Within the pkg was the air HAND LAID fiberglass air duct
for the injector. It only came with a manual transmission (MOST PROBABLY all
were 4sp), positraction, NO heater, NO radio, 5.5in (NOT 5.0in) wide wheels,
heavy duty brakes, special ducting for direction cooling air to the brakes, 5
instead of 4 leaves in the rear springs, HD front (and shorter) springs,
thicker front sway bar, HD shocks (the rear cross member was modified for
mounting the rear shocks), a unique FI ignition distributor (908) with a tach
drive fitting that turned a plain, AC 8000rpm tachometer which was mounted on
the steering column. The tach in the center of the dash was eliminated and the
hole was covered with a front/rear emblem-----------------------WITH ONE
EXCEPTION------------ 57 VIN 4007, restored by Bill Connell several years ago,
which was the FIRST production built Airbox car, had the hole covered and
finished smooth with a piece of fiberglass. There was a ONE ONLY fairing which
covered the steering mounted tach. On the assembly line for these VERY FEW
special cars, it was determined to be too time consuming and too much trouble
to cover the center hole for the regular tach, thus, the use of a front rear
emblem to cover the hole.
SOOOOOOOOOOOOO, where did I learn all this? Nothing magical. Ken Kayser has so
thoroughly and expertly provided these details (AND MUCH MORE) in his books,
plus supported it with GM documentation, and as I mentioned above, his books
would be a valuable addition to anyone’s Corvette library. When I got his
Vol I and started reading it, SO MANY unanswered questions just begin to fall
into place----------------------just one example, the 5 Cadillacs with fuel
injection and the one Oldsmobile with FI. Of course, I presume everyone knows
about the 57-58 Pontiacs with FI which was a regular option.
I am not familiar with any option 649D or 649E.

The number of fresh air
ducts (airboxes) built was 50. THERE IS NO SURVIVING GM DRAWINGS OR
DOCUMENTATION FOR THEIR CONSTRUCTION, BECAUSE IT GOT DISPOSED
OF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Per Ken Kayser. What a shame!!!!!!!!!! Even though 50
airbox ducts were fabricated, only 43 cars were built with an airbox FI pkg.
So, where did the other 7 ducts go??? Well SOME of them have been accounted
for. One (a 48th car) was factory installed, BUUUUUUUUUUUT, the production
order was changed to a 2x4 engine (FI was removed and replaced with 2x4s) and
a major portion of the duct was sawed off! (MANY years ago, 70s, it was
rumored that car was in Arkansas, I never saw it) That leaves 6 unaccounted
ducts. A SACC member (John Neas in Tulsa) has one of the unaccounted for ducts
on his 57 FACTORY RPO 579C car. It was delivered to Rosenthal Chevrolet
WITHOUT an airbox (and the tach was in the dash). About 2-3wks after delivery
to Rosenthal, a complete Airbox pkg was delivered and installed on John’s
car. So now that leaves 5 unaccounted for ducts that were fabricated. One of
them MAY, repeat, MAY be on my 56. I just do not positively know the actual
source of my airbox. I bought it about 30yrs ago from someone--------------AND
IT APPEARED TO NEVER HAVE BEEN INSTALLED (NO installation holes were in it).
By the way, the fresh air duct (airbox) on the SR2 cars is custom made for
those cars. It is totally different from the ducts installed on the production
Airbox cars.
The picture of the red airbox is my “built” 56 “579D” car. It has
all the 57 579D components EXCEPT the ducts going through the rockers for rear
brake cooling.
I probably have not answered all the questions about the 57 Airbox option, and
if there are more questions, I’ll see what I can answer.
**********
5/31/2020
I
have a 1962 Corvette 327 340hp 4 speed matching , the car sometimes cuts out
while driving, it loses power and powers up again while driving, sometimes it
looses power and just quits and will not start until it sits a while and cools
down ??
What
do I check ?
How
do I join your organization ??
John
John,
Let's answer the easy question first.
Regarding your car issues, I would suggest a couple things.
1) Use only premium gasoline as a minimum and 100% gasoline 90 octane with
lead additive & octane booster as required.
It sound like your carburetor is "boiling over"
and flooding the engine. Higher octane helps solve that.
Hardened valve seats in the heads eliminates the need for
lead additive.
2) Recently, two of our chapter members encountered similar running issues.
One made it home, the other got flat-bedded.
In both cars, a 1959 & a 1960, the coil was defective
and ran perfectly after that one part change.
Good luck with your car,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I had the same problem. Would let it sit when hot. Then it would start.
One day after cooling, it would not start, and there was no fuel in the
carburetor. The fuel pump was failing and finally needed to be replaced.
When you replace it, use the original configuration inlet and outlet (and
maybe original part number pump). It is a good opportunity to correct
some other items with the fuel lines if needed.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
For a cheap and easy test install a known good ignition coil and see if that
makes any difference.
Water in the fuel can cause the engine stall, then restart while still moving.
As mentioned, lack of fuel. Could be fuel pump, partial blockage in tank or
line.
Verle
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
This could be a number of problems, but from your description - I would
suspect the coil. A defective coil will often fail in one of two modes, or
both; 1) the broken coil (wire coil) becomes intermittent - it will quit firing
for no reason and then start firing as sudden as it stopped. 2) as it heats up
it will fail and cease to fire until it cools down and remakes contact. This
is an easy fix - replace the coil and see if the problem goes away, if not at
least you know you've eliminated one possibility. All the other
possibilities are not so easily fixed. They are probably in the
carburetion or fuel delivery. Things to investigate; does the stall
occur in a turn or at a totally random time. (Left turn is carburetor), when the
stall occurs - does it seem to be the lack of fuel (fuel pump, or filter) or
does it seem to be flooding (restarts with footfeed floored = carb adjustment).
-John
**********
5/30/20
There are special rivets that are on the door latch mechanism that I was going
to fix the assembly with. Are the rivets available or will the assembly need
to be replaced?
I’m best corresponding on my home email instead of my work address, but I
have a photo of what I’m talking about attached to this message.
Thank you.
Jim
From:
John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:
I
don't know of any source for the Door Latch mechanism rivets. I'm sure you
could find rivets that would work from a rivet supplier, but I don't believe the
new mechanisms are terribly expensive. I would replace the whole
mechanism.
**********
5/27/20
Steering,
I have excessive free travel when I turn all the way right or left what would
cause this?
Richard
From: John Spencer,
Red River Chapter Advisor: This
is a curious problem. The steering box on a C1 is designed to have zero
lash (play) at the high point (center position). As you turn the steering
the play between the worm gear and the sector shaft roller increases. This,
however, is not suppose to be excessive. In a worn steering box it's all
but gone; as you tighten the worm gear / sector shaft engagement at the high
point (where the worm gear has its most wear) to eliminate play - you
decrease the designed play at the steering's extremes where the worm gear
experiences less wear. Attempting to adjust the play out of the center or
high point often yields a binding of the steering at the extremes not excessive
play. I would go through the steering box adjustment procedure and verify
the play exists in the steering box. This procedure can be found in
Chevrolet's Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12. Steering adjustments are found
in Section 9, the guide which can be found on-line.
From: Verle Randolph, Red
River Chapter VP:
I would do a complete inspection of the front suspension and steering.
Excessive play in steering could be any of a number of problems.
A-frame moving, tie rod ends, idler, spindle bushings, steering box....
Verle
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: You
need a copy of ST-12 and a scale that will measure a pull force of 0-3 lb.
First be certain the steering wheel is centered using the indicator mark behind
the horn button. Adjust that with the drag link or tie rods. Adjust
your steering box exactly as described in ST-12. It worked for me.
**********
05/20/20
I
recently purchased a used front sway bar from a 1961 Corvette. I was with the
understanding this should have a diameter of 1” but when I measured it the
diameter is .805
Would
you know the correct diameter ?
Thank
you
Joe
A
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Vice President:
From old GM parts manual, .8125 for 1960 to 1962.
**********
5/13/20
Sir’s,
I
have a question; Where might I find some pictures of the underside/back of
the dash on my car. And BTW I just sent my application for membership in today and
was unaware of your existence as a club.
Thanks
in advance and I’m sure with your vast knowledge of several members there is a
wealth of information about these cars.
Kermit
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Kermit,
The 1956-57 Corvette Assembly Manual has the illustrations you're looking for.
Every Corvette owner absolutely needs a copy for their year car.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: If you are planning to have it look as
original,
I have a 1957 that I plan to remove the gauges and replace all the wiring
connections as original
My resources are my 1957 AIM electronic file that was put together from several
resources. The
file size is huge so it cannot be sent. There is one internet site that
has them, (http://earlycorvettes.com).
1956-7 Judging Manual, and go to the NCRS Discussion Board. You can search
for photos from
members who posted there.
Joe
If
you are planning to have it look as original-
I have a 1957 that I plan to remove the gauges and replace all the wiring
connections as original. My resources are my 1957 AIM electronic file
that was put together from several resources. The file size is huge so
it cannot be sent. There is one internet site that has them (
http://www.earlycorvettes.com)
.
1956-7 Judging Manual, and go to the NCRS Discussion Board. You can
search for photos from members who posted there.
Joe
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Kermit: Unfortunately, most 1957 Corvettes have gone through a period
when they were, essentially, worthless and the people who acquired them had
little regard to originality and made a lot of modifications to them.
Your best source for the information you are seeking is to examine an
original unrestored car. In NCRS, these are called "Bowtie"
cars. Maybe you can find one of these in the area that you live in
through NCRS, If you live in the Los Angeles area, I can help you with
this. Otherwise, attend NCRS and SACC events and see if you can find
what you are looking for.
Larry Pearson
**********
5/13/20
Hello,
If this question has been asked before I apologize. What grease do
you reccomend when assembling and maintaining the C! front supension.
Thanks For your Tech page,
Steve
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:
I use the "standard" heavy chassis grease used on all car in the
50s, 60s, 70s, ....I just looked at a couple of tubes and did not see a
specific designation. Being paranoid I regularly grease the front end, all 22
zerks.
On long road tours I usually have the car greased about every 750 or so miles.
That is probably more than necessary but I don't have trouble with the front
suspension wearing out.
I replaced the ball bearings in the front hubs with tapered bearings, they
last better.
The obvious ones to keep lubricated are the king pins and the A-frame.
From
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Steve,
You should be able to locate a digital copy of 1953-1962 Corvette Servicing
Guide ST-12 online.
Page 0-7 contains Illustration Fig 10 which shows all chassis lubrication
requirements.
The answer to your question is a GM approved Chassis Lube and all 21 fittings
should be lubricated every 1000 miles.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Steve: My response goes beyond your question, but you should find it
useful. I have many years experience servicing General Motors front
suspensions, and have seen it all.
First, you should have a copy of Corvette Servicing Guide, Publication ST-12.
This publication was prepared by Chevrolet in 1962 and is the only official
shop manual for C-1 Corvettes, and is available from all the major Corvette
parts supply sources. This publication is a "must have" for
all C-1 Corvette owners.
Except for ride height, your front suspension is identical to that used on the
1949-1954 Chevrolet sedans. All the bushings are
"metal-to-metal" with a very limited ability to store grease.
Therefore, Chevrolet recommends that the front suspension lubrication points
(22 of them) be greased every 1000 miles using chassis grease. The 1000
mile interval is extremely short by today's
standards and, in my experience, you can go 2000 miles without causing undue
wear. Chassis grease is available in cartridges that fit in a standard
chassis grease gun. I recommend that you outfit your grease gun with a
rubber hose that is sold separately. This greatly assists in accessing
the hard to reach grease fittings.
When greasing the fittings, wipe off the tips of each one to prevent the
injection of abrasive dirt before greasing with the gun. I keep my front
suspensions clean by taking a putty knife to scrape off all the old grease and
road dirt. I have a 5 gallon metal can filled with about two gallons of
Mineral Spirits and use an old sock to do the cleaning. Your suspension
may have so much old caked grease and dirt that you cannot find the grease
fittings. The upper A-arms each have two inner grease fittings that are
hard to see, but must be greased. The king pins each have two fittings,
two facing forward on one side and two facing rearward on the other.
Consult ST-12 to see where all the fittings are. The front center pivot
(steering idler) ball bearing is permanently lubricated on Corvette.
The wheel bearings should be packed every 10,000 miles with Sta-Lube Heavy
Duty Drum Brake Bearing Grease (in the green can), This is the only
satisfactory grease to use for ball bearing wheel bearings. Dip each
bearing in solvent and use a heavy paint brush to work out all the old grease.
Carefully inspect the balls for evidence of spalling (failure). Each
ball must be shiny and smooth. Inspect the inner and outer bearing
races for evidence of flaking. The surfaces must be completely smooth.
Pack the grease into each ball bearing assembly by hand, making sure that
there no voids. After installing the bearings, tighten the castle nut to
30 ft-lbs and spin the hub to make sure the bearings are seated. Then
back the nut off until the cotter key clears the first hole in the spindle and
insert it and bend the ends to keep the key in place. If your grease cap
has a static collector in it, cut off the outside tail of the cotter key to
prevent it from engaging the spiral on the collector and destroying it.
Ball bearing wheel bearings must be pre-loaded. Tapered roller wheel
bearings must never be pre-loaded. The castle nut must be slightly loose
with tapered roller wheel bearings.
Larry Pearson
**********
5/12/20
Recently purchased a 1961 corvette but
the spears were in the trunk. And it seems last time painted the holes were
filled and painted over. I have got all parts for reinstall but wondering if
there is a pattern to putting them back on the car. Don’t want to willy
nilly a $60k car
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Randy & Doc,
First, let's define our terminology.
1958- 1961 Corvettes have 3 Side Spears on each side cove.
Corvette Central sells them as individual parts or as complete kit 331215.
1958 Corvettes have a pair of Trunk Strips that Randy doesn't need.
Assuming whoever filled in the side cove mounting slots merely filled them
with body filler & a putty knife, the original mounting slots/holes should
be obvious by inspecting the coves on the inside of the panels. The splash
shields on the inner fenders and the kick panels in the cabin will have to be
removed to gain access. Use a small drill from the inside to open the holes
then use a small round or flat file regain the original size.
Please, go buy a 1961 Assembly Manual & read it before you start cutting.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
**********
5/12/20
Were bell housings and transmissions painted or just left unpainted in 1956?
Thank you, Michael
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: The cast iron transmissions were installed on the engine
after the engine was painted red with the bellhousing attached. Then
the cast iron transmissions, 3 sp, 4 sp (late 1957), and Powerglide, were
painted with gloss black chassis paint with the engine/transmission in the
chassis. There was black overspray on the bellhousing. This was
the way my unrestored 1960 was done. This final blackout painting was
done with the engine and transmission mounted in the chassis just prior to
the body drop. The brake drums brake lines, one side of the brake
master cylinder and brake line to it, the front suspension, the rear
leaf springs, and the exhaust system were all painted with chassis black
paint. It wasn't pretty. It was done as a rust preventative.
The paint quickly burned off the exhaust manifolds and the exhaust system.
There is an assembly line photo in the book "Birthplace of
Legends" by Peter Licastro that shows this. I can't find my
copy so I can't tell you what page it is on.
Larry Pearson
**********
05/11/20
Were bell housings and transmissions painted or just left unpainted in 1956?

From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Michael:
1956 Corvette engine color is red except possibly the last few weeks of
production, which may be Chevy Orange; Manual
transmissions use a cast-iron bellhousing and is painted engine
color. There were several items that were bolted to completed engine
and they were painted as an assembly including the water pump, oil pan,
balancer, and bell housing. Items that were not bolted onto the
assembly were many times black, such as the road draft tube and generator
adjusting brace.
The red color is similar to Ford Tractor
Red.
Joe
**********
05/10/2020
Can the powerglide transmission on a 1954 Corvette be removed without removing
the engine?
Thanks,
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
Yes, you can remove the Powerglide transmission on the '54 without removing
the engine.
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
05/10/2020
I need to put in my lock assembly for trunk on 1960 corvette. I am having a
rough time trying to attach the retainer clip which holds the lock cylinder in
place. Should I remove the corvette emblem to get better access to the lock
assembly? Thank you for your assistance. Jim

From:
Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President:
Yes remove the emblem. You are fortunate to have that opening for the
emblem to give you access
to install the retainer clip. That's the reason they designed that emblem
that way. I have a 1957 and
don't have that extra room to work. It's REALLY hard to get that retainer on
a 56-57.
Bill Preston
**********
Dear Solid Axle Corvette Club:
I hope you can help me, The problem concerns body segment being fitted
properly: Hood adjustment so front of hood is flush with fender on 1960
corvette
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I assume that the question is: How do you adjust the hood on a 1960
Corvette to fit the opening and to align the hood with the front of the car
and the side fenders?
Refer to figure 6 on page 11-2 in Corvette Servicing Guide, Publication ST-12.
This publication, prepared by Chevrolet in 1962, is the only official shop
manual for C-1 Corvettes, and is available as a reprint from all major
Corvette parts supply sources. This publication is a "must
have" for all C-1 Corvette owners.
The hood hinges have slotted mounting holes where they attach to the hood (two
bolts) and the radiator support (three bolts). The three bolts attaching
the hood hinges to the radiator support allow for up and down adjustment of
the hood and the two bolts attaching the hinges to the hood provide fore and
aft adjustment.
The rear lock assemblies mounted on the rear of the hood also allow up and
down adjustment of the hood at the cowl. There is a screwdriver slot of
the tip of the hood lock assembly for this adjustment. Also, the
rubber bumper on the catch assembly mounted on the firewall is adjustable up
and down.
If your Corvette has had front end collision work improperly done, it may not
be possible to achieve a perfect fit of the hood to the body.
Larry Pearson
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Jim,
As designed, the hood height is pretty much locked in once the hood hinges are
bolted to the underside of the hood and radiator support bracket.
There are actually two separate adjustments:
1) There are 4 (2 on each side) inner fender to radiator support bracket
screws/fender washers that lock the entire
front clip height in place on both sides relative to the hood.
2) There are steel & rubberized fabric shim packs/screws that help
raise/lower the support bracket relative the chassis
& helps lock in the hood height.
Note: This is IMPORTANT !! All front bumper bolts and support bracket to chassis
shims/screws must be LOOSE before attempting to raise the front clip to match
the hood height. Loosening the inner fender to main body/cockpit screws at the
rearward edge on both sides might help ease some strain also.
Good luck & be careful,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
I have been told the V-8's could have come from the factory with either 10
inch or eleven inch flywheels and clutches. Is that correct? I am
trying to get the correct size for my 1956. I have had a 3789733 casting
flywheel for some time and had planned on using it. I looked in a 1973
GM parts book and under flywheel it says, second design, 10 inch clutch, but
when you look up clutches, it says 10.5 inch clutch. I look in catalogs
and some have 10 inch 10 1/8 inch and some have 10.4 inch. Hemmings
Motor news seems to say either 10, 10.5 and 11 inch. After all of what I
have read I am thoroughly confused. What would be the size that was used
from the factory and what is the recommended size to use?
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
My 1964 chevrolet master parts book lists flywheel casting
number 3729004 for all 55 thru 62 corvettes as well many other 55 thru 64
passenger cars and trucks. The actual clutch diameter is referred to as 10 or
10.5 inches. There is an 11 inch listed for 55 thru 64 passenger and
trucks....cast 3714463 for hd applications, but not for corvettes.. I can not
find your flywheel 3789733 listed anywhere.
Chip Werstein
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:
3789733 is an 11" flywheel for late 60s and 70s. Used mostly on big
blocks.
Not for Solid Axle Corvettes.
Verle
**********
Hello, I am finishing up with rebuilding my front suspension which I stopped
work on seven years ago. Back when I installed the new king pins, I think that
it was the owner of the machine shop that replaced my upper inner bushings in
the spring towers, that suggested putting locktite on the outside of the lower
king pins bushings to keep them from turning. The more I learn and the more i
think about it, I think that this was probably the wrong thing to do. Can anyone
tell me whether I did the right thing or wrong thing in putting locktite on
those bushings? I know they call them free floating bushings. My second question
is how can you tell when an upper control arm is no longer serviceable? My new
bushings, when inserted into the outer side without turning in the threads and
without the outer shaft in place, will go into the hole leaving a thread or two
showing on the outside. They seem to tighten to the prescribed 35 foot pounds
when it is assembled with the cross shaft in place. It is just that I have had
it apart a few times and possibly by other owners as well. If this one side is
in need of being replaced, I would rather do it at this point. I do have another
control arm that I could replace it with, but it is pitted and doesn't look so
nice as my one that came on the car. Thank you for all of the help.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: Ref: 1953-1962
Corvette Servicing Guide
Technical Service Department
Chevrolet Motor Division
Installation
"When replacing the kingpin floating bushings it is not necessary to ream
them to size as service bushings are machined to finish dimensions.
However, when replacing floating bushings, care should be taken to make sure the
oil grooves in the bushings line up with the lubrication fitting hole in the
steering knuckle.
These bushings should be free both on the kingpin and in the steering
knuckle."
This would suggest that locktite is not appropriate for the bushings.
I am curious why the shop suggested locktite.
Verle
**********
hi, What color is the metal axle positraction tag? Thanks. Steve
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Steve: I have a 8x10 glossy print from Petersen Publishing Motor Trend
road test taken of the rear axle of a 1961 Fuel Injected Corvette with the car
on a lift. The series of 31 prints I purchased from Petersen in the late
70's shows all aspects of this car: front, rear, interior, trunk, engine
compartment, interior and the entire chassis of the car. This car has
1519 miles on it, so it had been driven, and the chassis was not like new
anymore. You can even clearly see the grain on the steering wheel.
These were high quality pictures taken with a large format camera.
The Positraction metal circular tag and the plug were unpainted. It is
possible that these items were removed for inspection of the contents and the
chassis blackout paint was removed at that time, because it seems plausible
that these items would be painted chassis black. Also, there is a large
yellow (It was yellow on all three of my cars) circle of paint circling the
fill plug area and a large white "X" grease marked under the yellow
paint.
Larry Pearson
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Steve,
It is my belief the circular tag was raw steel....possibly painted over during
the blackout process. I always cad plate mine. NCRS has never deducted anything
for the plating.
Chip Werstein
**********
Hi guys , i have a 1957 corvette and i am looking for the correct headlights
. it is" a t-3" triangle in the middle with pebble grain, on the
bottom it shows " guide" on the bottom and above that it shows "
sealed beam" in small letters. in 1956 it had large words " sealed
beam". can you folks help me locate 2 headlights.
thank you
bob
From: Larry Pearson, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
Robert: Corvette Central sells "correct" reproductions of the
1956-57 headlight bulbs. Of course, these are not "exact"
reproductions. The originals had a small bright silver half moon shaped
shield inside in front of the filaments. The reproductions have a larger
fully round black cone shaped shield with a slot across the center. I
assume that NCRS accepts the reproductions.
Larry Pearson
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Bob
Per the JM
Headlamp bulbs must be matching Guide T-3 design; with pebble-grain (not
vertical ribs) within
triangle. SEALED BEAM 3/8" and 1/4" high lettering were both used
throughout the 1956 and 1957
year models.
The other challenge is they are non-DOT. I would like to get another
set myself.
Joe
**********
Having a tough time locating replacement hinge pins for a 1955 Corvette. Any
help appreciated.
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: Ebay vender for
early Corvette parts partsqueen responded to my message:
"New message from: partsqueen Top Rated Seller(9,765Green Star)
Hi There, I have the door hinge shims and plates and a few door hinge pins and
maybe a few bushings and not many"
Her parts store is on ebay.
If you deal with her make sure to clarify what you are getting and what
condition.
She often has very hard to find parts.
If the pins don't show on her store, click on a part and send message about the
pins.
Verle
*Note: From: Web Editor: When you venture on ebay
you are never sure who you are dealing with. They may not have a lot of
expertise, plus their idea of quality might not be the same as your idea of
quality. They may send you something that differs from what you asked for.
As Verle said above, make sure you verify the part and condition.
I just found another source for early parts.
http://www.carolsclassiccorvettes.com/
Lloyd Miller, a noted restorer of 53-55 Corvettes said he has had good luck with
them.
I have not asked them about hinge pins.
Another issue, 55 hinges are aluminum. You have to be careful to not break them.
Verle
(Note: From Web Editor: The same disclaimer noted
above applies.)
**********
Larry here from the Solid Axle Club. I have a '61 FI and the welch plug
on the side of the meter is seeping fuel. Wondering who may have
experience and be able to seal or replace the plug?
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Larry: They all leak because the zinc casting cold flows causing the
plug to loosen up and leak. This is not a problem with the early sand
cast aluminum fuel meters that use a pressed-in aluminum plug. Don't try
to replace it. The factory pressed it in with a special fixture that no
one I know has. If it just seeps, I recommend living with it. If
the plug is so loose that it might pop out, you must epoxy it in place. If
appearance doesn't matter, seal it with JB Weld. JB Weld is not affected
by gasoline when it is cured. JB Weld sags until it cures. Use wax
paper to hold it in place while it cures. Or remove the fuel meter (or
the entire unit) and lay it on its side while the JB Weld cures.
If appearance does matter, you will have to remove the fuel meter top cover
and try to compress the existing welch plug using large Channel Lock pliers or
a "C" clamp and a steel bar or thick washer on the inside of the
casting for support. I have not tried this. Do not use
a hammer. Be very careful not to break or warp the casting.
Do not use Cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) or RTV Silicone sealer. These
adhesives are not compatible with gasoline.
Larry Pearson
**********
Due to illness, my 1959 sadly sat
for too long. Upon starting it, the
brake pedal went straight to the floor. The master cylinder is dry (and
a little rusty). There is no sign of a leak anywhere underneath or
around the lines or cylinder. Any ideas what may have happened.
I run
Dot5 with stainless lines, but the brakes are original drums. Hope
everyone is well and likely finding more time to work on your cars!
Thanks for helping.
Best,
CLM
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Clark,
If there was brake fluid in the 59 when you parked it then it had to go
somewhere. You state there are no visible leaks at the master, wheel
cylinders or brake line fittings then there is only one other place it could
be leaking. Check the under the dash at the rear of the master where
the push rod enters the master. If the seals on the piston fail, fluid can
leak out into the passenger compartment. If this is the case your firewall
insulation pad will be soaked with silicone fluid . I run dot 5 in all my
vintage cars.....one for over 30 years and several over 20 with no issues. I
don't use SS brake lines because it can be difficult to get the fittings to
seal. Last resort............fill up the master with dot 5 and pump the
pedal until the leak presents itself.
Chip Werstein
**********
Hello SACC Tech Help,
Sorry to bother you, but I had a question on rear axle bearings on a 1962
model. I'm rebuilding the rear differential and installing new axle
bearings while I have easy access.
The question is...when I install the axle bearings, should the shielded part
of the bearing face outward or inward towards the ring gear. the way it
came out was with the bearing shield facing outward (it was leaking grease
& oil). I believe this direction is the way it left the factory, but
having said that I've heard other people say to put the shield facing towards
the ring gear. The reasons cited are;
- That the gear oil will help lube the bearing as it penetrates the
bearing shield.
- That the rubber seal with spring facing outward helps keep brake
dust, water, and dirt from the bearing.
- The the bearing shield facing outward will not stop the grease
from leaking out and getting on the brake shoes.
So I can see good arguments for installing the bearing facing either
direction and wanted to ask what the current thinking was from the folks at
SACC.
Any and all opinions and insights are appreciated.
Thank you much!
Arvid
From: Bill Huffman,
Michigan Chapter President:
Arvid,
Page 4-8 of the Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12 clearly shows that the rear
bearing shield is installed to the outboard side to allow axle lube access to
lubricate the rear bearings.
Get yourself a complete digital copy of Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12
on-line.
It will answer many of your questions at a glance.
Bill Huffman, pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Hello,
>
> I'm hoping that you might be able to help me out or possibly direct in in
the right direction for some help. I am just finishing up with a from
suspension rebuild on my 1956 which has a 1957 frame. This is a car that I
have never driven incidentally. When I got everything back together it was
quite obvious that there is something wrong with the right hand side. That
side has extreme negative camber which cannot be adjusted out even with the
eccentric pushed all the way out. The hub lays back at the top about three
inches. The top of the brake hub is missing the upper control arm by about a
quarter of an inch. I thought that the steering knuckle might be bent, but
on examination I think that it has been replaced with with the wrong part.
It doesn't have a stop on the back side either. It could have never
had one or it could have been broken off.
>
> So here is my problem, I have another steering knuckle from a 1949
Chevrolet and and one from a 1953 Chevrolet. I have heard that they are
the same as Corvette, but I have also heard that the spindle on them comes off
at 1 1/2 inches lower. Therefore they may not be the same as Corvette.
Do you happen to know what the casting number would be for those spindles.
If i knew what the casting numbers were for Corvette, I could try to match
it up with one from a passenger car.
>
> Thank you for your time and help.
>
> Best regards,
> Michael
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Cahpter Advisor:
Mike,
The steering knuckle ( I refer to it as the spindle ) is the same for both
53-62 Corvettes and 49-54 Chevrolet passenger cars. Casting number 3693446 for
both left and right sides. I believe your problem is with the steering knuckle
SUPPORT which is what the steering knuckle attaches to with the kingpin. I too
have heard there are differences in the support but I don't know the exact
differences.
49-52 passenger steering knuckle support casting
number...........................Rt.........3687652
Lf..........3687651
53-54
..............................................................................................................Rt.........3703786
Lf..........3703785
53-62
Corvette................................................................................................Rt............3733450
Lf.............3733449
I have heard that the 53-54 passenger and 53-62 Corvette supports are
dimensionally the same. The difference is the material they are made of but I
can't confirm that. 3733450 knuckles can easily be purchased. In fact, I have
a couple.
Chip Werstein
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Here is the other part of the puzzle
The
49-52 pass car and 53-62 Vette spindle supports are the same. The
53-54 pass car spindle supports have the knuckle for the king pin about 1
in. higher. If the 53-54 pass car spindle supports are used on a
Corvette, they will lowers the car. See the photo.
Joe

**********
Thanks a bunch. I'm trying to trace ownership. (1962 Vette). I
believe there was only 3 owners including myself but am having difficulty. I
was told the warranty was probably best way
Paul
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Paul,
I have never heard anything about warranty records and Chevrolet claims they
don't have build sheets going back that far.The DMV offices in some states
may keep vehicle ownership records from day one. I live in California which
is not a state that keeps old records. I've owned my 62 since 1973 , a black
plate California car, and I've never been able to trace ownership back
prior to 1973. However, NCRS has shipping records on most Corvettes from mid
1962 going forward. This info can be purchased from NCRS and will provide
you with the build date, ship date and the dealer it was shipped to. The
last I heard they had info on 62's beginning with aprox VIN 6000. Perhaps
the delivering dealer is still in business and may be able to provide some
info. It's a long shot but..........
Chip Werstein
**********
I own a 1962 Corvette which I did a frame off restoration in 1977-80. The car
has been driven 8500 miles since them. During some service this winter, I
noticed play in the left front king pin. There is i n/out
movement of the bottom of the tire. The wheel bearings have no runout. I dismantled
the left side, cleaned everything and nothing looks worn. Measuring everything
with micrometers, I see no difference in pin or bushing diameters compared to
a new set. There IS a .002" difference between the bushing outside
diameter and the inside diameter of the spindle bores. These are the free
floating bushings. This seems excessive and could be the source of the
movement. My question is, Are there any specifications for the good/discard
diameters of the knuckle and spindle where the king pin bushings go? I did not
notice this during the rebuild and can only guess what may have caused these
bores to be large if in fact they are. I really don't want to take the right
side apart to compare sizes, hence the reach-out to you.
Sizes Measured:
Bushing ID - .868/.869" Bushing OD - 1.054" (lower bushing checks
1.053/1.054")
King Pin Diameter .866"
Spindle Bushing ID - Upper bore. - 1.056/1.057" Lower bore 1.056"
My mics are three place, and I plan to repeat the checks with a 4 place mic,
but I doubt tenths of thousands are the problem.
Thank you for your time
Gary
From: Bill Huffman,
Michigan Chapter President:
Gary,
Before you tear your car's front suspension apart, king pins are most likely
only a small contributor to the looseness, especially if only the left side
exhibits this.
Worn tie rod ends, a worn or poorly adjusted steering box worm & shaft
gear,
a worn pitman arm ball stud, worn or poorly adjusted drag link bearing ends,
a worn/loose third arm bearing or even a cracked/broken third arm bracket
(from lifting the front end with a jack) all have an impact on LF wheel in/out
looseness.
I found all but the cracked third arm bracket after I added tapered bearings
to my 1960.
Good luck with your search,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From: Verle Randolph, Red
River Chapter VP: Bushing Diameter:
1.05"
Bushing Length: 1.315"
Bearing Thickness: .59"
Pin Diameter: .866"
Material Type: Steel
Apply a light coat of grease to the new bushings and insert into the spindle, aligning
the grease channel
on the O.D. of the bushing with the grease zerk hole in the spindle.
IMPORTANT! Installing bushings incorrectly will cause premature wear of
kingpin and bushings.
Verle
**********
have the frame on my 56' cleaned/primed now, what color is
closest to the original frame color bearing in mind i will buy
paint at ace thks gene
From:
Brad Bean, SACC President:
Understand your desire to get the painting done while we are still under a
"stay at home" order due to COVID-19, and Ace has some good products
for around the house, including "Rust-oleum" paints for metal.
However, the frame is the base for everything else that follows, so I'd allow
the time and expense to do it right, including purchasing the proper paint.
Not just color (which is a satin black), but quality, as well.
There are a number of sources for the proper automotive paint, including your
local automotive paint supply stores. If your local stores are closed,
my mail order supply house of choice, for restoration automotive paints is
"Eastwood" of Pottstown, PA. You can call and speak with a
specialist about your specific needs, ie: color, type and quantity. They
also offer spray cans, if you don't have a paint gun and compressor.
Call: I-800-345-1178 or order on-line
www.eastwood.com
Good luck!
**********
Looking to find correct positioning of trunk and deck lid weatherstrip on a
1958 Corvette. Been looking for hours but nothing concrete is showing. Thank You
Dale
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP: First, adjust the trunk lid to a
good fit with the body.
The trunk weather strip was installed to trunk lid inner lip with the seam
(ends) located at the bottom center, near the latch mechanism. 56-57 Technical
Information Manual.
From personal experience on my 57, if you actually want it to seal you may have
to custom fit. That is, verify the weather strip is actually in "good
contact" all the way around.
I had to add material to "make the weather strip thicker" on a lower
corner. The material I added was a piece of weather strip with the thick edge
trimmed off. You would get judging deductions for that. I wanted a good seal
because we drive the car.
I suggest you buy the NCRS technical manual for your car. It has lots of details
like this.
Verle
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

Here is additional information for the trunk weatherstripping.
It is not tubular in shape.
From the 1956-7 JM:
Trunk lid weatherstripping is of the same type as door seal.
It was installed to trunk panel inner lip with the seam located at the
bottom center, adjacent to latch mechanism. Yellow adhesive was brush
applied and may have been excessive. Weatherstripping should not show
signs of paint overspray.
If you have the typically weatherstripping, it is somewhat like an L.
The 'thin' leg is glued to the trunk vertical surface. The fatter leg
lies against the trunk horizontal surface.
Joe
**********
how many body bolt downs (body to frame) are there
-Sharon
From:
Chip Westein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The answer is 12. 13
if you count the spare tire hold down bolt.
Chip Werstein
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: According to the GM
Manual: 1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide page 1-47:
The underbody attaches to the frame body mounting brackets at
ten locations (fig.103).
The ten body bolts and washers are installed from the top
side of the underbody.
Verle
**********
I have purchased a 1962 radiator .it has a date
code of 62L stamped on top as usual.but this date goes beyond when they
stopped making 62 cars.the code L is for november. i wonder if harrison made
more than GM ordered or just made extras as the 63s were different.maybe gm
had ordered more as they knew some would get damaged in collisions etc. i am
wodering if anybody has run into this late date code and what it means.i
submitted a ? earlier about what posi fluid to use in my covette and really
apreciate the response.
steve
From:
Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: Aluminum radiator
#31150916 was used in late 61, and all 62 with external supply tank 3151016.
The radiator was probably produced for some time after 62 assembly was ended
for the parts supply system.
The later dates are considered replacement parts. There would be a minor
deduction in judging if everything else was correct (part number,
configuration, etc).
A lot of OEM/NOS parts fall into this category. Everything is correct except
the date code.
Verle
**********
I have been spending time getting our 1961 Corvette
roadworthy again. I ended up taking the tach and speedometer out of the
car and having a rebuild of them from D&M Restoration in Greenville, SC.
Very happy with their work.
The issue I have now is that the tach is not reading
correctly and is reading high through all revs. My question is about the
pulley on the generator. I have a 3 5/8” diameter pulley on the
generator. I am thinking that the 4” pulley would bring the RPM’s down
and make the reading more accurate.
Am I on the right track here?
Rob
From: Verle Randolph, Red
River Chapter VP: The mechanical tachs are similar to the
speedometer, they can be calibrated internally.
You might talk to D&M about it.
When I had my tach rebuilt I talked to them about calibration and they verified
it.
How do you know the tach is not reading correctly? Have you
compared it to another (electric) tach?
I would try to verify the tach reading before doing anything.
Changing the pulley size would adversely effect the generator output.
Verle
**********
I have a 1960 corvette that I am repainting. As part of this effort I need to
repaint the underside of the hood. I will be using a satin black paint; is
this the correct hue? Also are the male hood plates (on the hood) satin black
or are they some type of plating? I have searched the web and found pictures
of both painted satin black and what appears to be silver painted. Thanks in
advance.
Thanks for your time.
Regards,
Book
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter:
Book,
Two members of Michigan Chapter actually worked as engineers on the C-1
production line in St Louis.
I asked them this same question several years ago.
The answers are: the inside of the hood was painted in semi-gloss black, on
the production line from inside the engine compartment before the chassis/
body joining. The cowl side edge & two outer edges were masked with
a fabricated drop on & off cardboard mask to keep the outer edges body
color.
Both sets of zinc dichromate plated hood latches (male & female) were
installed in the car before painting the engine compartment. Original
condition would appear to have black overspray on the latch edges only &
not under the latches.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Book,
I will once again strongly suggest that anyone wishing to restore a Corvette
correctly purchase an NCRS judging manual specific to their year car.
1. Under side of hood paint. Semi flat black, matching engine
compartment blackout.
2. Hood hinges, latches and locks. These items were cad plated and
installed prior to body painting and engine compartment blackout painting.
They may and probably will appear with blackout paint over spray in varying
degrees.
Chip Werstein
From:
Brad Bean, SACC President:
I agree with Bill's statement that painting the underside of your hood
"satin" black, as well as painting the "male" hood latches
the same color is correct. The latches were affixed to the underside of the hood
prior to painting.
On a personal note... during the first restoration of my '60 Corvette, I
removed my hood latches and noticed the area under the latches was unpainted
fiberglass, supporting the fact the underside was painted with latches in
place.
Over years, paint adheared to the fiberglass, but started pealing from the
bare steel latches. This gave rise to the incorrect theory the latches
had been unpainted. This and personal preference is why you see some
latches in natural steel. However, if restoring as original, this is
incorrect.
Good luck with your restoration!
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Here is additional information from the 1956-7 JM. I do not have a
later C1 JM.
Underside of hood panel is semi-flat black, matching engine compartment
black-out.
All metal items in rear latched & hood lock are cadmium plated,
except for the coil springs, which are painted gloss
black. However, these hardware items were installed prior to exterior
body paint and engine
compartment blackout painting, and therefore may appear with paint
overspray, in varying degrees, much
of which may not have completely adhered to these lubricated parts.
**********
Again thanks for your help.
I did the following tests. Battery is good/Strong/new
Tank is full.
With the key on I have 12.5 volts.
the key on and the 2 lines to the sending unit. the gauge reads full
or full plus.
I removed the sending unit and only get about a .02 change in the resistance from
0.00 to 0.02.
The unit is new (less than a year) but I am I correct to think the sending
unit is bad?
When everything is hooked up, the gauge moves from below empty to empty.
Thanks for you help.
Todd
From: Verle Randolph,
Red River Chapter VP and Advisor: Todd,
Since you have the sending unit out take a close look at the coils. Most
covers are attached by tabs that bend over to hold it in place. Straighten
the tabs carefully, remove the cover and inspect the surface where the
moving contact rubs on the coils. Look for corrosion and/or broken wires. I
have had mixed success with repairing those things. If there is corrosion
you can try sanding with fine emery cloth or sand paper. Don't rub too hard
you can displace wires.
Verle
**********
I just received my dads 1960 corvette that has been parked for 15 years.
I’ve got it running and the fuel gauge doesn’t work. He
says it worked when he parked it. And we replaced the fuel tank
and pick up unit this winter. Mow the gauge doesn’t work.
I plan in taking the pick up unit out and testing it with a volt meter to
ensure it is working.
Any Advise on what to test or look for on the gauge side?
The other question I have is I would like to put larger wheels or tires on
it. Does anyone know the max size that will fit and look
appropriate.
This will be a driver, as it doesn’t have matching numbers.
Thanks for your help. Todd
From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP and Advisor: Todd,
Since you have the sending unit out take a close look at the coils. Most
covers are attached by tabs that bend over to hold it in place. Straighten the
tabs carefully, remove the cover and inspect the surface where the moving
contact rubs on the coils. Look for corrosion and/or broken wires. I have had
mixed success with repairing those things. If there is corrosion you can try
sanding with fine emery cloth or sand paper. Don't rub too hard you can
displace wires.
Verle
From: Verle Randolph, Red
River Chapter VP and Advisor: Does the gauge not
move at all? Is there fuel in the tank?
The gauge is hot all the time. It should have 12 V. Check that first.
The "sending unit" is just a variable ground.
Check for 12 V to the sending unit. If the key is on and the battery is good
there should be 12 V. If not 12 V, check the wire for damage. Make sure the
connection on the Gauge is clean.
Ground the wire where it connects to the sending unit. The gauge should show
empty.
The tank must have a good ground to the frame or some other place that is
grounded to the battery.
Are you talking about larger diameter wheels or just wider wheels.
I have 15X7 with 215 70 15s. They look good and work good, don't rub. 57
Corvette.
I have no experience with wheels larger than 15"
Verle
**********
My question is
about what fluid I should use in the rear end of my 1961 Corvette. It is a posi
rear. Right now I have an open rear end, but originally my car was equipped with
a posi rear end as it has the vent. I purchased an original correct posi unit
for my car. Which I will be installing this spring. I know I can't use silicone
fluid in the rear end. Would I use 80/90 lube? What posi additive should I use?
Thanks for the help!
If you have any questions email me and I while respond.
Thanks,
Steve
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Steve
I have used in my early Corvette rear ends Stay Lube 80W90 limited slip gear
oil part# SL 2473 ( one gallon with pump) and one bottle ( 4 oz.) of AC Delco
limited slip additive # 88900330......$9.00 from Summit. Put the additive in
first and then fill up with oil.
Chip Werstein
**********
my 1961 (driver) is an early vin with a copper/brass radiator. (Not the
radiator that has the funny offset tank) The fan shroud lacks a good 1 1\2
inches of sealing off the top tank. Is there a special shroud for a 61
that does not have the aluminum radiator?
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I would suggest you refer to the NCRS 61-62 judging manual for complete
information.
Very early 61 base motor cars used left over 60 copper radiators. supposedly
there were 192 left over.
after that all engines used left over top tank aluminum radiators.
After 61 aprox vin 1700 all remaining 61 and 62's used the later
aluminum x flow style.
All 61 and 62 fan shrouds are the same
However there were 3 different core supports used in 61 so you may have a
radiator/core support mismatch.
I will also add that in 50 years of playing around with C-1 Corvettes, I have
never seen a 61 with an original copper radiator.
Chip Werstein
From: Verle Randolph, Red
River Chapter VP and Advisor:
The shroud should be a three piece top. The center
shows to be 4 inches depth.
Logo is P in a keystone. Stamp on the vertical.
No measurement on the gap or set back on the fan. All
shrouds are the same but supports are different.
Verle
**********
Found a 59 Vette n trying to verify vin to engine....is there anyone or a
document to do that? Also original specs ? Color etc.
From:
Brad Bean, SACC President:
Sorry, but on C1 Corvettes, there is no direct link between the VIN and the
engine number, and there are no longer production records indicating which
engine was installed in a particular vehicle (all records were destroyed in a
fire). However, to see if the engine is "possibly" the original
block, you can estimate the vehicle's date of production by using the VIN and
Corvette monthly unit production numbers; then compare that with the production
date of the engine block (located on the engine's stamp pad) to determine if
they are compatible. There are various opinions on this but general
guidelines indicate the engine block should have been produced two to six weeks
prior to the vehicle's production date. If the these align, it indicates
the numbers are "matching", but not necessarily "original".
As mentioned all C1 production records were lost in a fire, and C1s did not
have trim tags or build sheets, so unless the previous owners kept the
original bill of sale or early items (like color photos and copies of vehicle
registrations, etc...), color and options are difficult to substantiate.
There are some physical traits on the vehicle that could indicate if it came
with certain options, but you either need to know what you are looking for or
know someone who does and is willing to help. A local NCRS C1 judge or
restoration shop, specializing in early Corvettes, might be your best bet.
The stamp pad on a 1959 283 CI block is located on the front right
(passenger) side of the block, just beneath where the valve cover meets the
manifold. It protrudes out from the block and the numbers can easily be
seen with a flashlight with the hood open.
The engine number should be stamped into this "flange" (not raised
numbers/letters). It should be six characters long. Starting with the
letter "F". All letters are capital.
Starting with 1960 production the last six numbers of the VIN will precede
the engine number. So you can tie in the serial number with the
engine, but not for '59.
There are two ways to determine original color, but neither are an option if
you don't own the vehicle. In most cases, the color name was written on
the back side of the passenger compartment (inside of the trunk) with a greece
pencil. If you remove the cardboard front trunk liner, you can sometimes
see the outline of this thru the paint. If the car has been restored and
repainted, this is probably gone. The other way is to scratch off paint
from one of several areas, where it would be difficult for a shop to
have removed all of the original paint before repainting (such as the inside
corners of the gas filler compartment). But I doubt the current owner
would consent to this and even if they did it is not 100% conclusive, as if
the restorer had the body dipped, all traces of the original paint are
probably gone.
I'm guessing you are looking to purchase this '59 and would like to verify
some things before you buy it and time is short. If so, my advice would
be to enlist the services of a local professional. If you have the time
and are in this for the long run, suggest you locate a copy of Noland Adams'
book: "The Complete Corvette Restoration & Technical Guide - Vol.1
1953 Through 1962". These have been out of print for decades, are
scarce and pricey (if you can find one), but a good investment and will help
you understand the physical "tell - tell signs" of what to look for,
what information is out there and where you can find it.
Good luck!
**********
Howdy, this is Darrell 1959 C1
I am looking for some guidance to the right
direction to get the interior done my 59. It has been a complete body off
restoration and I am not sure where to start with ordering interior kits,
supplies and such. I will need foam for seats, carpet, and anything else needed
for a 59.
Can anyone give me a direction or where is the
best place to get interion supplies?
From:
Brad Bean, SACC president:
Appreciating the need not to give endorsecements, one can't answer this question
without sharing the benefit of our experiences, including brands. Also,
there are as many answers to this question as there are members on the
panel. Frankly, it depends on what Darrell wants to do with his C1 and
what he wants to spend, with the most accurate and correct reproductions
generally being the most costly.
That being said, Al Knoch is generally recognized as one of the best for
accuracy and quality (& most expensive). However, decent quality
interiors are available from Paragon, Corvette Central and Corvette
America. One more note... if he wants the original looks but the comfort
and feel of leather, Corvette America also makes a leather alternative
interior.
Of course, the end product will only be as good as the quality of the
installation, so choose your upholstery installer wisely. Also, if you
are going to pay the price of a new interior, I recommend going the extra
distance and purchase new springs and padding, as well.
Leather was not offered on C1s, including 1959. I mentioned leather only
as an alternative, as I wanted the look of the original interior, but was more
interested in comfort versus having the car judged at NCRS. And... living
in Florida, didn't like sticking to the vinyl seats in short pants during the
summer's heat.
Again your end purpose should govern the type and quality of interior you
choose. If restoring to NCRS & Bloomington Gold standards, then
you want the most correct and best quality interior; Al Knock would be a
good choice. However, if you want a correct looking
"driver", the others will work without the additional expense.
**********
Electrical issues: I have a 62 Vette which I have done my best to keep
as original as possible inside and out. I was wanting to change out the
radio system to a more updated unit with XM services. Thus, I had the
ignition switch on during a period for hookup but when I attempted to start
the car it wouldn’t start. After checking under the hood for a short period
I touched the coil in checking the coil wire and it was hotter than fire.
I noticed after close inspection it had cracked. (I take it the points were
closed). Changed it out, removed distributor cap and points and they also were
fried. Changed points and condenser and properly set points with feeler gages.
Turned ignition and car started right up. Checked gauges battery was on
full charge all working. Went to turn off engine after battery
changed up and engine continues to run like I had not turned ignition off but
left it on. I had to pull coil wire to turn off engine. Went to
troubleshooting. Disconnected the hot wire to the radio. Thought it may
be my ignition switch. Changed it out started engine, turn switch to off
engine still running. Changed my voltage regulator and ballast resister
no luck. Engine continues to run on off. I am lost. Any HELP!!!
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Hi Darrell
You may have an ignition switch issue. When the switch is off, there
should be no voltage to either the start wire or the run wire that goes from
the switch to either side of the ballast resistor. When the switch is at
start, voltage goes to the ballast resistor and directly to the coil.
When the switch is ON, voltage goes to the ballast resistor, through the
resistor and to the coil.
Also start the car while checking the voltage at the coil.
1. Turn to ON. Voltage should be less
than 12V (8-11V?)
2. Turn to start. It should be 12-14V during
starting.
3. Start the engine, and release the key.
The voltage should drop to less than 12V (8-11V?) while running, since the
electricity should flow through the resistor. If the voltage does not
decrease, it is pointing to an issue with the switch.
Check these. You may have shorted the switch.
Joe
**********
I am having some steering tightness in the 61 Corvette. I Put new grease
sockets and greased, but still hard to turn. Have you had any of this before?
Maybe needs steering fluid!
Roger
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Roger,
This problem is nearly impossible to diagnose with your 3 sentence
explanation, but I'll attempt to give some possibilities as to the root of
your problem.......in no particular order.
1. There are 20 grease fittings in the front suspension. Did you grease all
of them?
2. Do you run big tires or stock 6.70x15? Wider tires will make the car
steer harder.
3. Do you have the stock 17" steering wheel or a smaller one? The big
wheel gives the driver more leverage.
4. Has the front end ever been rebuilt? If not, after nearly 60 years it is
probably worn out.
5. Have you checked the steering box for lubricant? Manual calls for 90
weight gear oil, but it will leak out quickly. I use 680 weight gear oil and
I still have small leaks. Many people use grease but I don't like it.
6. Steering box could be out of adjustment.
7. Steering box may be worn out especially if it has been running dry for a
while.
Sorry I can't be more specific.
Chip Werstein
**********
I have two questions,
I have 1961 Corvette that oil canister that holds the filter is leaking around
the bolt that holds the filter to engine.
Rear end drain plug is also dripping oil after I installed new seal.
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glenn,
I am not aware of any company that offers a rebuild kit for the oil canister.
Try to tighten the bolt as much as you can.....that might stop the leak. Other
options are replace the canister with another either used or repo. Or you
could convert it to a spin on style filter.
Rear end drain plug leak. I always put a good thread sealer on the drain
plug. You will need to drain the rear end, thoroughly clean the plug and
housing threads, re install the plug with thread sealer and refill the rear
end.. I use a product called Right Stuff.
Chip Werstein
**********
Does anyone know what the function of the micro switch near the chock cam is
for. The only way I can keep my car running after starting it is to insert a
piece of cardboard between the switch and the cam. If I do not insert the
cardboard the car barely runs and appears to run very rich.
Thank You,
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Craig: The early FI units
(prior to 1958) had an electric solenoid attached to an arm that, when activated
by the car's starter circuit, caused full enrichment from the spill valve to
assist in starting the car. The solenoid is only activated while the
starter is cranking. When the starter is released by the ignition key the
solenoid is disabled and the FI unit operates in the normal mode without
starting enrichment. The purpose of the micro switch is to disable the
solenoid during engine cranking if the engine is flooded by flooring the gas
pedal as you would with a carburetor. This is process is called
"unloading". Evidently your unit is mis-wired so that the
starting solenoid is always activated when the car is running or starting,
causing a very rich situation when the car is running. That is why you are
having to activate the micro switch with a piece of cardboard to disable the
solenoid. You need to correct your wiring error by connecting the FI unit
starting solenoid to the starter solenoid circuit and not the car's 12 volt
battery.
Starting in 1958, a device called the Cranking Signal Valve (CSV) was
introduced and the expensive solenoid and micro switch were eliminated.
Initially,the CSV was mounted directly to the Plenum and it caused full
manifold vacuum to be applied directly to the main diaphragm on the fuel meter
to cause the needed enrichment during starting. In later units the CSV
was moved to the Enrichment Diaphragm Cover causing manifold vacuum to be
applied to the enrichment diaphragm assembly and that caused fuel enrichment
during starting. When the engine starts, manifold vacuum increases and
the CSV senses this and shuts off the flow of manifold vacuum to the main
diaphragm or the enrichment diaphragm. To achieve "unloading"
when the engine is flooded, flooring the gas pedal causes the air meter
throttle valve to fully open, reducing the manifold vacuum to the CSV and
reduces starting enrichment. When the CRV fails to shut off the manifold
vacuum when the engine starts, the engine runs in a very rich mode like you
are experiencing. When this happens, the CRV is defective and has to be
replaced.
Larry Pearson
**********
I’m looking for a template or dimensions to position the flags and “fuel
Injection" insignia (coves and trunk lid) on my 1957 Corvette. Do you
know where I can find that information? The mounting holes were eliminated
when the car body was restored. Thanks!
>
> Bill
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Bill,
Before you start drilling new holes, clean the back side of the cove panels down
to the clean fiberglass. If it was really a fuelie, the holes filled with bondo
are most likely still there.
Re-drill from the back side using as small a drill bit as possible then clean
out the original hole with a slightly larger drill bit or small round file from
outside the car.
Don't punch it out with a hole punch from the inside because that will blow out
a large hole in your paint.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
I just found your website and have an issue with my 62 Corvette. I
purchased the car in 1975 and have significantly restored it. I have
not, however, done anything to the transmission. It had a Hurst shifter
installed when I bought it. Lately it tends to 'lock-up' on the 2-3
shift and get 'stuck' in 2nd. Crawling under the car and wiggling the 2
levers from the transmission will usually free it, but I can never tell
which wiggle does the trick. Is this a tranny problem or a Hurst
problem? Any suggestions?
Thanks so much.
--
Fair Winds,
Mark
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Mark,
I will assume your car has a 4 speed. I believe in always trying the
"simple fixes" first. Before tearing into the transmission, I would
re adjust the shifter. It's quite simple, but it's a tight working space in
the trans tunnel. Hurst shifters are almost indestructible. It is possible the
your 2nd or 3rd gear levers have somehow become miss adjusted or the 3rd gear
stop has become loose and moved. Google Hurst Competition 4 speed
adjustment for directions. Hope this solves your problem.
Chip Werstein
**********
Solid Axle Corvette Club:
Trying to find correct or original screws to mount speedo to dash set of two.
For a 1956 Corvette.
Thank you
Richard
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The assembly manual (section 12 sheet 11) shows the speedometer is mounted
to the dash with two PN 187572 screws that bolt to nut plates that are
riveted to the dash. A have a note that says they are recessed hex
head machine screws.
Joe
**********
Dear Solid Axle Club,
I have a 1957 Corvette with an original Rochester Fuel injection. I bought car
In 1995 after a frame off restoration started in 1991.
The fuel injection was restored in that time frame. It basically has been
running great since. Last week I noticed a strong gas smell
and noticed a lot of gas pooled on intake manifold. I cleaned up and haven't
started since. Does this sound like a unit leak?
I'm taking it to my local rod mechanic Monday
just to make sure it's not coming from somewhere else.
Can you recommend someone located near me who can repair or rebuild unit if
necessary. I'm located in Temecula Valley.
I'm not a member but know several of your members especially Walden Dahl who has
done lots of work on this car. I'm waiting
a return call from him. Also if you know any tech sites that might explain
problem.
Thank You
Ron
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Ron: If the fuel leak is under the fuel meter, the likely problem is the
spill valve cover under the fuel meter. It uses a rubber "O"
ring to seal it, and these have a tendency to crack and leak when they get
old. If this is the problem, do not drive the car!!! There
is high pressure fuel under the cover, and this leak is the leading cause of
FI equipped Corvettes burning to the ground. You have to pull the unit
to get at the cover screws, and you will need a new O ring. It is easy
to install.
Larry Pearson
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Ron,
My guess is that the gasket between the high pressure pump and the fuel meter
has failed or the high pressure shaft pump seal has failed. They are fairly
simple fixes but the FI unit will need to be removed. Regardless do not drive
the car. It is a fire looking to start. There are two people in your area who
are fuel injection experts. Chuck Smith in Valley Center and Doug Prince (
818-425-0679) in Murreitta. Walden is also a good choice but somewhat
inconvenient for you.
Chip Werstein
**********
I have a 56 corvette and the speedo bezel needs to be restored/replaced. My
question is are the groves on the front of the fuel suppose to be
painted black or left chrome?
From:
Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Below the speedometer, the recesses are painted black.
From the Judging Manual, "Circular grooves in bezel have black paint
strips."
Joe
**********
Hi Guys, you been a great help in the past
and I’m hoping you can give me assistance with my sun
visors?
I purchased a new set of sun
visors from Corvette America. The sun
visors have a seam around the entire perimeter where the vinyl meets.
There are no predetermined holes for the mounting rods which must go into the sun
visor. When I called Corvette America for technical help they had no
answer and suggested I ask a form. Can you please help me in how to best
create the hole in the sun
visor to insert the rod?
Thanks again for your help,
RS
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Roger,
The
assumption by the aftermarket manufacturer & vendors is that you have
existing sun
visors that you use as a model for fitting your new hardware kit into your new sun
visors. They fit exactly the same way.
I would use a blind hole locator punch from my screwdriver set to locate
the holes in the visor inner structure & penetrate the vinyl.
I'm
certain that Paragon https://www.paragoncorvette.com/ would
be more than happy to fit new hardware to your visors if you or a local
shop are unable to handle it.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Hello,
I have 61 Corvette, my question is that
my rear license plate does not work. I have power to the socket and the bulb is
good.
I have notice that there is no ground to the light. Do I need a ground ? If so
how do I wire it. I have looked for diagram on the internet no luck.
Regards,
Glenn
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Glenn,
The
license plate light is grounded using the same wiring harness as the rear stop
lights.
Check
out page 66 of Paragon's C-1 catalog for a picture. https://www.paragoncorvette.com
Bill
Huffman, Pres.
Michigan
Chapter SACC
there
is no wire coming out of the harness, I need to run ground wire from the light
to ?
I
have power at the socket
(From
Bill Huffman) All Corvette electrical
equipment (lights, gauges,tank sending unit, radio, battery, WS wiper,
etc.) are grounded to the frame / chassis.
Somehow the ground lead has broken or been cut. So open the rear light harness
cable covering (tape), find the ground wire (use a meter to verify continuity to
the chassis), splice in an extension wire and connect the ground to the lamp
housing. Consult your local Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone for help.
Or
buy a new rear light wiring harness (Corvette Central P/N 661325).
Or
buy a new rear light wiring harness (Paragon P/N 5319).
BTW-
Get yourself a 1961 Corvette assembly manual CC or Paragon or Mid-America.
It
answers most, if not all, your questions about your '61.
Good
luck,
Bill
Huffman
**********
Hello Everyone
I purchased a 61 fulie 35 years ago . Its been running , is there a way to
track the serial #
Thanks
Jim
From:
Brad Bean, SACC President:
This is stating the obvious, but it may be your only opportunity, because there
are no factory records at Chevrolet or GM on C1 Corvettes as hard copies were
destroyed by fire, years ago.
If you kept a copy of the title from your original purchase, this would give
the name and address of the previous owner, and that's a good start. If so,
you can write them to see if they have information on how long they owned the
car and if they retained any records on the car's previous owner(s). But,
be prepared for a dead end as I've owned my C1 for 26 years, and when I wrote
the former owner listed on the title from my purchase, I found they had long
since moved with no forwarding address.
Another possibility, if you've stayed in the same state since your purchase
and it has a history in the same state, there is a small chance your state
department of motor vehicles may be willing and able to help track it. However,
most state records only go back so far and hard copies were destroyed when
they converted to microfilm and these were discarded when they converted to
digital.
A long shot... SACC members have the ability to place a free ad our
quarterly magazine, "On Solid Ground". Place an inquiry ad
asking if anyone has information relating to your VIN number, along with your
contact information, and see if anyone responds.
These are my only ideas. If another of our members has any suggestions,
I welcome their comments. Good luck!
**********
Good morning:
Would we have a diagram of wiring generator/regulator and distributor with tach
drive gen on 1961 corvette?
Harold
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Harold: Most of the answers you need and much more are found in
Chevrolet's official shop manual for the C1 Corvettes: Corvette
Servicing Guide, Publication ST-12. The Chassis Wiring for 1961-62
models is found on page 12-14. The actual servicing of the distributor
is found in Section 6Y, Engine Electrical. ST-12 does not cover the
servicing of the generator and voltage regulator and the operation of the
car's charging system. For that you have to refer to the 1961 Chevrolet
Passenger Car Shop Manual, Publication S&M-32, Section 9, Electrical
Systems.
Corvette Central sells the ST-12 Corvette Servicing Guide reprint, but not the
car shop manual. Actually, any Chevrolet car shop manual for the
1955-1962 models should give you the information you need to service the
charging system. If you will be in Los Angeles on Saturday,
November
9th, I will be teaching the operation and servicing of the C1 Corvette
electrical system at our SOCALSACC Fall Tech Session.
Larry Pearson
**********
Greetings!
I’ve recently installed a power rack and pinion steering system in my ’62
Corvette. I removed the serial number tag from the original column after taking
a picture of it in position. I contacted our county’s Ohio State Highway
Patrol office, and the Sgt there is willing to work with me on properly
documenting the repositioning of the s/n tag to the driver’s door post.
I’m curious if you have any photos of 1959 and earlier C1s with the tag
location on the door post, so I can duplicate the position as closely as
possible. The local Sgt actually suggested positioning the tag on the door post,
as opposed to the cowl near the steering column, saying he has seen many early
Corvettes with them there. He was not aware of the ’62 tag being located on
the column.
Once I have a photo of a door post-mounted tag, I need to take the car to the
local Post, where they will write me a letter explaining why the tag is not in
its original position. Ant help will be appreciated.
Regards,
Dave
From:
Joe LeMay, Socal Chapter Advisor: This is an NCRS article that relates to
California, but should be a good guide for use in any state.
VIN Verification
Joe LeMay (55193)
(Although the process applies to any car, it was
specifically for my 1957)
There are some words and phrases that we in NCRS really
like. They are things like: typical,
appears to be factory applied materials, casting date within 6 months of
production date, Top Flight, Duntov.
There are other words and phrases that we in NCRS do not
like. Not typical, wrong, incorrect,
“not lacquer,” and the worst one- counterfeit.
Counterfeit can really get you in trouble.
You so proudly show up with your car for a judging meet for
flight judging, sportsman, or just to be there.
Someone looked at your VIN tag with an opinion “this is not the VIN tag
that was issued and installed at the factory.
St. Louis did not use that one.” You
are informed that your VIN tag is not the typical factory VIN tag.
It is a counterfeit.
The part of
the Judging Reference Manual that applies to the VIN tag reads:
“The
car must have the correct attached Chevrolet factory Vehicle Identification
Number (VIN) plate or an attached valid state-approved replacement ID plate that
matches title and/or registration. …..
Any car appearing without identification as described shall be ineligible for
any NCRS judging.”
So what needs to happen now?
It is really simple. There
are two options.
1. Just show your car with a bad VIN tag to the California Highway Patrol.
They will look at it. Then
they take your car away and you never get it back.
That is it. Never to be seen
again. Only the pictures remain.
Judged again? You just want
to drive it again!
2. Keep the car. Send a letter to
the NCRS. Tell them they will never
see your car again. You are through.
No those are the wrong approaches.
You have a VIN tag that looks like this (photo).
Looks good, right? It is the
tag that came with the car, right? You
bought it that way. You have a CA
title. The registration is current
and you legitimately drive the car on the street.
The process with this counterfeit mess is much simpler and
you will not lose your car. The
resolution is clearly stated in the JRM. You
need to get your VIN verified with a state-approved replacement ID plate.
The process can sound scary. The
reality is something different. Here
is what you do in California.
During the assembly process in the St. Louis plant, the VIN
number was stamped on the frame. On
a C1, the VIN number is stamped twice on the frame.
The frame stamps are on the top side of the frame right below the driver
seat, about half way along the door. Then
during body drop, the corresponding VIN tag was attached to the body.

Although there is a VIN tag attached to the body, the true
VIN number for the car is associated with the number stamped on the frame.
During restoration or collision repair, if the body or frame is changed,
the VIN tag that matches the frame stamp is to be used.
If the body is replaced, the VIN tag that matches the frame
must be installed on the replacement body. Nothing
changes. If however the frame is
replaced, the VIN tag that matches that frame must be used.
Your VIN has changed. You
need a clean title for that replacement frame to be installed.
Your car will now have a new VIN, new title, and new registration.
You will not be able to see the VIN on the frame with the
body firmly bolted to the frame. How
do you see the frame stamp and get a photo of the frame stamp?
You may need this information if you want to be certain this old car that
changed hands so often is what your paperwork says it is.
Here is the process to see the frame stamp and get a photo
of it. Unloosen all the nuts for the
body bolts a few turns. There are
two at the radiator support, four on each side under the body (8 total), and the
two in the rear in the fender wells. Now,
remove the four nuts under the body on the left side.
Place a 2x4 wooden block on the body floor just outboard the frame.
This is where the outer seat bolts are located.
Ensure the block is long enough to support the weight of the body without
cracking the floor. Jack up the body
an inch, creating space between the body and the frame.
The body will move. Just do
not go too far.
Now find the VIN frame stamp.
It should be about in the midpoint of the door.
You may need to clean the top of the frame to remove dirt, etc.
Use a mirror placed and held against the body.
Reflect a light onto the frame. You
should see both VIN stamps. They are
only a couple of inches apart.
Take a few photos of both VINs stamped on the frame.
I taped a mirror to the body to hold it in place.
It could take some experimenting with the angle and intensity of the
light and the camera to be used. The
camera needs to be able to focus very close to the object.
I had more success with an iPhone 5S than a digital camera.
I may not have had a macro setting on the camera?

So now what do you need to do?
Gather all the information you may have on the car.
It could be the current title, and any past titles that you have as a
record. You have your registration,
license and insurance card. You have
a photo of your VIN tag, and the photos of the VIN frame stamps.
Make copies of all this information.
You will be submitting the copies. I
did not have any of this information returned to me, so do not provide original
documents. Call your local CHP to
make an appointment to have your VIN verified.
They do this all the time and it is not some crazy request.
You will most likely meet others at the CHP office doing the same thing.
When I was there, a guy had inherited his mother’s car from Georgia, it
had been repaired and the VIN tag was missing.
Go to the CHP office for your scheduled appointment.
They will take all your paperwork, and take your car behind a fenced area
to complete the process. They will
drill two holes for the rivets to attach their replacement ID plate to your door
frame. Their ID plate number will
match the VIN tag and the current title. They
will also provide you with a copy of an Application for Vehicle Assigned
Identification Number Plate. That is
their record of the replacement ID plate.
I requested they not mount their replacement ID plate to
the space where the original VIN tag was located.
They added theirs below the original area.
I did not want to lose the original look of the VIN tag.
A potential new owner may want to see that tag.
The entire process took an hour and was very easy to do.
Here is the final product.

One more thing; If you are going to have your car judged
(which is why I went through this exercise), remove your ‘counterfeit’ VIN
tag before it is presented for judging. NCRS
does not want to see that non-original on the judging field, but the replacement
ID plate meets all of their requirements.
**********
Hello
I have a 1960 corvette I am rebuilding. Have a few issues I have ran into.
The temp gauge reads about 20-30 degree to high can these be recalibrated?
The engine when 1st started when cold has 70 lbs pressure the oil
gauge only goes to 60 will it damage the gauge going to 70 when warm drops
down to correct temp?
Is there someone that rebuilds the original horns?
Thanks
Jeff
From: Joe LeMay:
Hi Jeff
The temp gauge can vary depending on the ambient temp and the condition of
the cooling system. Those variations also consider whether the gauge
itself is reading correctly. What is very important with these systems
is whether the electrical connection between the gauge and the threads is
continuous. If you use Teflon tape or some other material to seal the
sender with the intake manifold, that can create added resistance, and an
inaccurate gauge. You can check the sender by immersing it in a pot
off very hot water at a known temperature. Keep in mind, these engine
temperatures can rise in hot summer months.
Oil pressure as high as you are seeing is very easy to create. Just
get an oil pump with a high pressure spring. The stock oil pressure
for these C1 engines is 45 psi. You can restore that pressure by
selecting and installing the correct oil pressure relief spring. That
will require access to the oil pump. Is that part of your rebuild?
The gauge itself is very simple and usually trouble free.
All
C1s used a 45 psi oil pressure spring and had a 60 psi gauge. A
higher volume pump is not beneficial in a small block. It just allows
more oil to be bypassed at the pump. It also puts more oil into the
top of the engine where it can leak out. The oil pressure
spring that comes with any new pump may not be correct, and I suggest making
the change at the time of installation to insure you will have the correct
and desired pressure, via the spring. The 45 psi spring is available
from GM as P/N 3814903. Order that spring and insure it is installed
in the pump. It will provide 40-45 psi @ 2000 rpm in a hot motor.
There is also the 49 psi green spring that is available through Melling.
There
are a couple of horn rebuilders. We just lost one of the better
rebuilders. Horns are very simple and disassembling one may show how
easy they are to adjust. Are you looking to try it yourself?
Joe
LeMay
**********
Need help! Would like to get information on the alignment and how to DIY
recover the cloth top on my 58 if anyone has DVDs or step by step instructions
I would appreciate it very much there doesn't seem to be anyone in my area that
knows how at a reasonable price so once again I get to do it myself thanks!
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jerry: Al Knoch not only sells a convertible top for your 1958 Corvette,
but he sells a DVD that instructs you on how to install the top yourself.
He sells his Top Install DVD for the 1956 through 1962 Corvette for $60.
His toll free order line is 1.800.880.8080, or visit his website at
http://www.alknochinteriors.com.
Larry Pearson
**********
Jack
/ Bill,
I
put the Vintage Generator on with all the correct bracket for 61 Corvette. So
far everything is working fine.
How
to make few changes. Mounting plate for the Generator had to slot holes in the
plate that got mounted to the
exhaust
and the correct fan belt would not work. There is no way to get this belt on.
Other than that everything is align.
Have
about two fingers from heater hose to belt. So Far so good. Again thanks for
your help. I have join the Solid Axle Club,
but
they did not cash my check yet.
Two
last question. What color paint is on 61 Corvette firewall and inner fenders ?
Do you know any good transmission shops in New Jersy,
My
T-10 Trans is leaking oil around the shaft that holds the cluster gear
in.
Regards,
Glenn

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Glen,
Generator. I am guessing that you have the wrong generator mounting plate
and/or wrong u bracket. There are different parts for different
applications. The belt issue could be incorrect size gen pulley or belt too
short.
Trans leak. If I am understanding you correctly, the trans leak is
where the cluster shaft enters the front of the trans case. Your leak would
be between the front of the trans and the bell housing. Before sending it to
a trans shop, I would try the following simple fix.
1. loosen the 4 bolts that fasten the trans to the bell housing about 3/8
". Do not remove them. With a large screwdriver, pry the trans back
until it contacts the bolt heads.This can be done without removing the drive
shaft or shifter.
2. clean the area between the trans and bell housing. I use the edge of a
rag soaked in lacquer thinner. If you don't mind making a bit of a mess
brake clean will work too.
3. take a linen business card (not a shiny card) or gasket material and
cover both sides in gasket sealer.I use a product called The Right Stuff
available at any auto parts store.
4. insert the card between the trans and bell housing so that it completely
covers the cluster shaft area. Re tighten the 4 trans bolts. Let it cure for
a day. This little trick should solve your leak. If it doesn't you have a
very worn cluster shaft or hole or the leak is elsewhere. Good luck.
Chip Werstein
**********
I
have a 1960 FI and it has windshield washer system. I am in need of a wiring
schematic ( rubber hoses) for the 60Vet.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Ron,
Page 73 of Paragon Reproductions C-1 catalogue shows the fuel injection
windshield washer set-up. However, it appears to be a smaller copy of a drawing
contained in the GM 1960 Corvette Assembly Manual which is really what you need
to get. It's available from any of your favorite Corvette parts vendors.
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President
**********
I have a 1960 with a reproduction steering
wheel. I need a high quality Red replacement or a place that can repair the
original which has cracked at the spokes.
Can you help?
Tom
From: Bill Huffman,
Michigan Chapter President:
Tom:
If it is top flight or Duntov material, Richard Dunham is your guy. He is an
NCRS Judge & SACC Member from Michigan who restores original steering wheels.
It's not cheap...he offered to upgrade my '60 wheel last year for $1000.
If your car is similar to mine, a really nice driver I've owned for 51 years and
don't plan on selling , Corvette Central or Paragon and a half dozen others
sell quality reproduction wheel kits for less than $500.
Regards,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Hello,
I have a question about my 1960
roadster. When the convertible roof is folded and the rear deck closed, the fit
is terrible. The rear deck sits about an inch above the rest of the car! I’ve
attempted to adjust the roof with no luck. If you can provide any help with
respect to getting a better fit I’d very much appreciate it.
My apologies for the email
signature…a guy has to work!!
Rog
From: Larry Pearson, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
Roger: I have never heard of the type of problem you seem to be having. I own
a 60 and two 62's, all with soft tops. You seem to be saying that with the
soft top assembly folded into the top compartment, when you slam the deck lid
and it latches, that the deck lid back surface pops up about one inch above
the trunk lid surface. Does it do this with the soft top up in place? If
not, I suspect that the connection between the soft top cover hinges and the
soft top fiberglass cover is broken, and needs to be repaired.
One of the problems with
today's
service replacement soft top fabric is that it is at least twice as thick as
the original fabric. The result is that the top assembly does not easily fold
down into the top compartment cavity. The ends stick up, and you have to slam
the cover to compress the folded top into the compartment. This puts a lot of
stress on the fiberglass soft top cover, and this could have resulted in the
fiberglass connection with the cast steel hinges has fractured. If this is
what happened, it will be very difficult to repair the fractured fiberglass
well enough so that it will be strong enough to take this kind of force. You
may have to purchase a used top cover. A used cover should be readily
available, but will have to be painted to match the rest of the car.
Another possibility is that the soft top cover hinge assembly has broken
loose from the car body. You will have to remove the cardboard cover in the
trunk to see if this happened. I have never heard of this happening.
Larry Pearson
From:
Brad Bean, SACC President:
I too have a '60 with a soft top. Like you, I had a similar folded roof
problem, to the point that it cracked my deck lid at the two ends.
Unless the car has been altered, the distance between the bottom of the
storage area and the deck lid, when closed, is a constant.
Assuming you have made all possible adjustments... my first
question... do you use a "pillow" or folded towel to keep your rear
window from being scratched? If so, make sure it does not impede with
the joints when folded.
If not, and it's the correct top for your car, the struts are probably
bent. Another sign that is is the problem is the two support bars,
with weather stripping, above the side windows form a slight "V"
rather than being straight across. The bends may not be detected by
the untrained eye, and if you have not done this before I reccomend
sending it to a professional soft top shop to have it straightened.
This process will probably require the replacement of the soft top
material, as well. While it's there, may as well have them refinish
the metal and replace the weatherstriping.
This has been my experience, but if someone else has a less costly
solution, I invite them to please pass it along.
Good luck!
From: Bill Huffman,
Michigan Chapter President:
Rog,
Since you live in area code 705, we will be at Mackinaw Corvette
Crossroads on
August 24th. If you can make it, I'd be happy to take a
look at it.
The deck lid position relative to the body is controlled by the hinge
mechanism and the latch. If tight & properly adjusted, it should be
the same whether the top is up or down.
Either the top is not folding properly (could be long handles on the
top header bar latches or 60 year old top frames don't fold the way
they're supposed to) or the tank cover is sitting too high to allow
the top to fold.
If there is anything under your deck lid other than the folding top
frame, take it out. You can only pack extra stuff after the top is
fully seated.
The few C-1 big tank cars (mostly racing cars with heavy duty
suspension & brakes) made were hard top only due to insufficient
folding top space. Was the folding top added later and not installed
correctly ?
Buy a 1960 Assembly Instruction Manual. Owning a C-1 can be a study in
the history of questionable repairs or modifications by previous
owners. The manual tells you what's supposed to be there.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Having an intermittent problem with switch to start engine, I have replaced
switch still have problem
Ignition lock cylinder?? Is this next? Replace or is there a repair procedure
to follow
Input appreciated
Thanks
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
George: If the replacement ignition switch functions mechanically then
the lock cylinder cannot be the problem. You don't give many details, so
I will go down the list of things that could be the problem.
1. When you turn the switch to "START", does the interior
light (an option in 1958) go out? If your car does not have the interior
light over the radio, then turn the headlights on instead. If the
light(s) goes out, then your battery is defective or the terminals to the
battery are corroded and need to be cleaned.
2. If #1 passes, then does the starter solenoid click when you turn the
switch to START? If not, then the problem is either the wiring to the
starter solenoid or the solenoid itself.
3. If #1 & 2 passes, then the problem is the large contacts inside
the solenoid that connect the battery to the starter, or the starter motor
brushes are worn out.
**********
Driving season is coming soon here in the Northeast. I’d like to
install brighter LED taillights in my ’62.

From: Bill Preston, Red
River Chapter President:
I recommend changing to an LED assembly, not just changing the bulb. The
assemblies are much brighter than the bulbs alone. One source for an
acceptable unit is Corvette Central part #492138. A word of caution: If you're
changing the front parking lights to LED, as well, you will need an LED
flasher or equalizer. If you leave your front parking lights with the original
type incandescent bulbs, you won't have to change the flasher. (The LEDs pull
so much less current that the existing flasher won't function without a fake
load on it)
Bill Preston
**********
Hi Folks !
Love my ’62 but frustrated with
the audibles when rough road causes both doors to rattle. Think I could
repair/replace cause but would appreciate knowing beforehand what parts are
usually at fault and what is required to effect repairs to make it nice and
tight again. Any words, books, articles, videos would be helpful.
Thank-you,
Gary
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Gary: The door windows have a chrome plated steel frame that rides in
felt or velvet channels to avoid a metal-to-metal contact problem. The
chrome window post on each door has riveted to it a felt-lined channel to
prevent a metal-to-metal contact. The felt wears with use to the point
where the window frame can make contact with the metal bead on each side of
the channel that can result in an audible rattle. Corvette Central sells
replacement front channels. At the rear of the door there is a black
painted steel "U" shaped channel that originally was lined with
black velvet that was glued to the inside of the channel. With age and
use, this velvet liner comes loose and falls inside the door. With the
velvet gone and the window down, the metal-to-metal contact here will cause a
very audible rattle. This is probably the source of your rattle, because
this eventually always happens. Corvette Central sells replacement
velvet that you have to glue into the channel using contact cement. They
do not service the channel with new velvet in it. There are also
velvet-lined seals stapled to the two stainless steel moldings on the top of
each door. These can wear out and cause rattles. Corvette Central
sells replacement seals and staples for the correct look.
Refer to the factory C-1 shop manual, Corvette Servicing Guide,
Publication ST-12 for instructions on how to perform the repairs.
Corvette Central sells reprints of this manual. The information is found
on pages 1-14 through 1-17. You do not have to remove the window
assembly to preform this work, in my experience. The rear channel is not
pictured, but is held in place with two screws at the back of the door, which
are shown. The channel comes out through the rear access cover.
You have to remove the the arm rest, door panel, and the access cover to do
this. Be careful not to over-tighten screws that thread into fiberglass,
or the fiberglass will strip out. I repair stripped out holes with JB-Weld.
But that is another story.
Larry Pearson
**********
1962 fuelie of 340 hp,was my dad's car,6500 rpm tech and finned brake drum. how
can I tell if was f.i. or carburetor car.brother in law stored it on dirt floor
pole barn last 15years.has 350 and 4 speed, in#20867S102053.any information
would be great. thanks p.s. Brother in law wants to buy high tech chassis and
motor, power steering, and disc brakes ,I want to keep original frame and finned
drum brakes.
From:
Brad Bean, SACC President:
Sounds like you'd like to be able to show your father's '62 was a "fulie"
in order to make a case for higher value as an original restored car vs a "restomod"...
My personal tastes lean to "original" vs restomod, but that is a
matter of taste as economics are not on your side. Recent auction prices
indicate a nicely done restomod will bring a higher price as most NCRS top
flight car, especially for '6l & '62 models.
FYI... there were 14,531 Corvettes produced for 1962, 1,918 of which were fuel
injected (13.2% of production).
However, I digress... back to your question. As there was no "trim
tag" on a '62 Corvette and the original engine is missing, there are a
number of things that might indicate it may have been originally equipped with
a fuel injected engine. The first four assume the front end has never
been replaced.
1). The '62 "Fuel Injection" emblem had two studs, so
two holes would have been made in the body pannels. Check
inside the fender body pannel, behind the wheel well openings. Look, or
feel, beneath the crossed flag emblems to determine if there is evidence of
these holes having been filled. (If feeling, wear gloves as the fiberglass may
be rough.)
2). The fuel injected air cleaner was fastened with two bolts to a
bracket which was attached to the fender with rivets. Carbureted cars
would not have this bracket. So, look at the left (driver side) inner
fender lip, about 10 inches forward of the master cylinder for this bracket or
evidence of the rivet holes. For aesthetics, the bracket may have been
removed and the holes filled, so feel inside the lip for signs they may have
been filled (again, use a glove).
3). If the radiator has not been replaced... for fuel injected
Corvettes in 1962, they used rectangular retainers with rubber seals on each
side of the radiator, where it is attached to the front of the support.
4). Windshield washers, for Corvettes, were standard beginning with 1961.
For fuel injected cars, it was mounted on the passenger side, while for
caubaureted cars it was mounted on the driver side. So check the
location of the washer unit. If the washer unit has been removed or
relocated, these holes may still be there, all on the inner fender. Two
above the battery for the vacuum tank, three vertical holes (aligned with the
back of the valve cover), and between those two locations there would be four
holes (drilled in a rectangular pattern).
Also, there would have been a hole in the firewall, behind the hood latch on
the passenger side, for the washer hose. If no hole, there would have
been a dimple in the fire wall as a guide for this hole. If the dimple
is there, then a hole was never drilled. However, if the surface is
flat, the hole may have been filled, so check the inside of the firewall for
signs of patching.
5). All '62 Corvettes had distributor driven tachs, however a fuel injected
car would have a hole in fire wall, on the left side of the wiper motor for
the cable, while a caubaureted car's cable would have been through a hole to
the right of the wiper motor.
There are other indicators, but most are based on whether or not the fuel
injected engine had solid lifters.
Regardless, these are just indicators of possible fuel injection. If
they exhist you may have a "fulie" but should have a professional
confirm your findings before proceeding with your restoration. If none
of these sign are present, chances it was not a fuel injected car.
Hope you and your brother in law come to a mutual agreement before things
become akward at future holiday gatherings. Otherwise, Thanksgiving
dinner will be uncomfortable for everyone.
Good luck!
**********
Hi, I need to replace the spinners on
my hubcaps on 57 Fuelie. I do not need the entire dog dish, just the
spinners. The ones I am replacing are partially painted red.
That is, the left flag, the one with the little fleur de elis, is
painted red and everything else is black.
But all I can find on Ecklers and
Corvette Central are all black, with no red whatsoever. It is
important for me to restore this to ORIGINAL because I will be selling it at
Mecum in May in Indianapolis. Do you know if the fuel injected 57
spinners are supposed to be red to set them apart from the carbureted cars?
Or perhaps these spinners were replaced at an earlier time by someone who
did not know that they were supposed to be black?
Steve
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Steve,
The printing on 56-62 hubcap spinners was always painted black.
Chip Werstein
**********
Will
the Wonderbar radio from 1958 and 1959 corvette will fit a 1960 corvette? What
is the value of a totally restored radio?
Thanks
Jeff
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Jeff,
The
wonderbar radios will fit the same but the knobs were sometimes different from
one year to the next.
Both
my wonderbar radios (and my clocks) were repaired be Corvette Clocks by Roger in
Jackson, TN http://www.corvetteclocks.com/
I would call him regarding current value & repair.
From:
Brad Bean, SACC President:
Yes, a '58 or '59 radio will fit in a '60 Corvette. Wonderbar radios were
not just for Corvettes, as almost any model GM radio of that era are
interchangeable. The only difference are the tuning and volume knob differ
from other models and for pre '58 and post '60 Corvettes. Replacement
knobs are avilable thru almost any Corvette Restoration parts supplier.
As theDr radios were not exclusive to the Corvette, they are readily
available and not too pricey. A decent older restored Wonderbar will
bring $500 to $750. However, you can expect to pay $1200 to $1500 for a
freshly restored one.
**********
Need help please,
I have contacted at least a dozen corvette websites to no avail. I have a 56
Corvette and am struggling with installing the upper Chrome trim on the
glove box. I picked up four new retainer clips that get screwed into the
fiberglass section but am struggling with installing the new chrome pieces
without scratching the paint. Do the chrome pieces slide down and then up on
the clips or are they angled on one side and then spread a little bit and
pushed onto the clips. Any help or illustrations would be appreciated .
Mike
From:
Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President: The
2 top stainless trim pieces above the glove box door on a 56 must be snapped
onto 2 NSS clips on each side that are mounted directly to the
fiberglass with sheet metal type screws (with the friction clip
toward the sides), These trim pieces are closed on both ends making it
necessary for you to snap them
onto both the clips from the inside toward the outside. I use masking tape on
the paint that will be exposed once the trim is in place. Don't put the tape
under where the trim piece will be because you can't get it out once the trim
piece is on.
Bill Preston
**********
I have purchased a 1962
Corvette. It is my first corvette. It has the removable hardtop with a soft
top. I am looking for instructions on how to remove and install the hardtop. I
will be picking this car up the end of April.
John
From:
Brad Bean, SACC President:
John,
Actually, fairly simple... undo the two upper latches located above the
windshield, left and right. Then flip up the two latches located on the
deck lid (one behind each seat). Make sure all latches are clear of the
bars. Unless you have a hoist to raise the top, it will take two people
to lift the top off the car and remove it to the rear.
Good luck and enjoy your car. When reinstalling the hard top, I've found
it's easier to latch the upper catches first, then the rear.
Enjoy your purchase and please consider joining SACC.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
John: Your hard top is secured to the car with two latches that
connect the top front header to the windshield frame header and two
special stainless steel hex head bolts that hold the top rear frame to the
the rear deck lid and two special stainless steel hex head bolts that hold
each side bracket (one on each side) to the car body right next to the door
opening. Use an end wrench to remove these four stainless steel bolts.
Then unlatch the two front latches that secures the top front header to the
windshield frame. Two people are required to safely lift the top off
the car (It can be done with one person lifting the top in the middle, but
this is very risky if you lose your balance). It weighs about 75
pounds. The top should be stored on end with the back window frame
against a wall and with the header on the floor on a piece of carpet or
blanket. Do not store the top horizontally on a box with the box
pressing against the inside headliner. This will cause a permanent
indentation into the headliner, and this cannot be removed. To
reinstall the top, reverse this process.
The two chrome latches on the deck lid are used to secure the soft top rear
bow to the deck lid. You mention that the car has a soft top, but you
did not ask for directions for putting the soft top up. Here are some
simplified instructions to help you out It is a one-man operation,
assuming that your car did not come with the power top option (extremely
rare for 1962). It is pretty straight forward. Depress the large
chrome button just above the glove box door to unlatch the top deck lid.
Make sure that the trunk lid is closed. Open the top deck lid.
Lift the soft top header out of the storage cavity and latch it to the
windshield frame. The soft top assembly will follow the header out of
the top cavity, Then hold the back of the soft top frame high enough
so you can slam the top deck lid. Then, assuming that the soft top
fabric and the metal top frame were properly installed and the fabric is
still plyable (not hardened and stiff), push the deck lid bow down and
connect the rear bow hanger loops to the hooks on the end of the deck lid
latches. Push the latch handles down to secure to top rear bow to the
deck lid. If the top fabric is stiff,put the car in the sun
to soften it up. All this assumes that the top frame was properly
adjusted so the side windows will fit in the weather strippings.
Adjusting the top frame to fit the side windows is beyond the scope of this
explanation, but was explained in a prior Sacctech response.
The soft top cavity originally had a black felt cloth glued to the gas tank
cover. Reproductions are available. If it is missing, place a
soft towel on the gas tank cover. This is to protect the top rear
window from being scratched by the rough fiberglass surfaces in the top
cavity. When putting the top down, place a soft towel in the fold of
the rear window to protect it from scratches.
Your car originally came with an owners booklet that explained how to use
the car features, and it is very detailed. Reproductions are available
if your car doesn't come with one. Get a copy and study it.
These cars are simple and easy to service, and are very fun to drive.
Larry Pearson
**********
Can a guy remove the engine without removing 4 speed gearbox? Thanks,
Dave. 4053
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dave: You can leave the transmission in place and remove the engine with
the bell housing attached or leave the bell housing attached to the
transmission. You won't have to remove the drive shaft or drain the
transmission or disconnect the shifter. You will have to support the
front of the transmission somehow because the rear mount is too far back.
You will have to raise the front of the car to get under it and disconnect the
transmission. You will have to have the engine hoist holding the engine
up when you disconnect the transmission or have a jack under the engine oil
pan to hold up the rear of the engine. Then when you lower the car to
facilitate the engine removal, you will have to lower the front support of the
transmission at the same time and remove the rear engine support. Maybe
you can use a second floor jack that can be controlled from the side of the
car to support the transmission while lowering the car. The problem will
be when you reinstall the engine. You will have to get the transmission
input shaft lined up with the crankshaft bushing and the throw out bearing and
the splines in the clutch disc. The floor jack under the transmission
will be in the way at this point. I have never done this so I can't
speak with experience. Maybe I am leaving something out and this is
easier than I think. Or there is another way to do it. But I have
explained the problems that have to be solved as I see it.
I still recommend that you remove the transmission attached to the engine as I
described. It is a lot simpler. Then you can put everything
together on the garage floor and reinstall everything as a unit.
Larry Pearson
**********
With the aid of fellow SACC member, we diagnosed an electrical issue on my '58
Fuelie, down to a faulty module of a Breakerless SE (Single wire Electronic
Ignition). The module lasted 8 years, covering 25K miles and I am
looking to source a replacement.
Sadly, Lectric Limited has had the kit on back-order since December, with no
indication of how long it will take to restock their supply. Paragon has
exhausted their inventory as well and is on a monthly watch list.
http://breakerless.com/
Would you know of any other source?
Don
From: Bill Preston, Red
River Chapter President: Don, you could possibly try other aftermarket
suppliers, or it may be that one of our members might have a unit that they
now don't need. If you are a member and have a unit, just drop a line to
sacctech@solidaxle.org.
**********
Can a guy remove the engine without removing 4 speed gearbox? Thanks,
Dave. 4053
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dave: I have done this and it saves a lot of time and trouble. You
can even leave the stock shifter on the transmission, but you must disconnect
it from the transmission body and tilt it back to the rear. It can't be
sticking up. You have to remove the transmission rear mount cross
member and lower the transmission tail shaft down to the ground using a
scissors jack or something like it. Use a piece of plywood on the ground
under the transmission tail shaft, because, initially, it will be dragging on
the ground. Install the engine hoist so that the
engine/transmission tilts down at the rear. Slowly raise the engine and
inch it forward in steps until the assembly clears the radiator support.
You will have to manually lift the transmission over the radiator support,
because it hangs down lower than the engine oil pan. You must plug the
transmission output shaft with a spare yoke or drain the transmission so the
gear oil does not leak out the rear. You can re-install the combination
by reversing this process.
Larry Pearson
**********
Can you tell me the correct length of the drive shaft for a 1960 corvette? I
have an auto transmission and looks like a lot of the transmission shaft still
showing.
Thanks
Jeff
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jeff: All 55-62 C1 driveshafts were the same length. Make sure
that the cloth rebound straps are in place to support your rear axle housing
when the rear end is jacked up. Without these straps, the rear axle
housing can drop so far down that the driveshaft yoke can disingage from the
transmission. Also, make sure that your driveshaft is using the correct
long yoke. I don't have the dimensions. The passenger cars had a
much longer driveshaft and used a short yoke.
Larry Pearson
**********
My 62 vette tach cable broke, I believe this to be the original cable, this
is a 340 hp 4 speed with a distributor driven tach I measured it at 41.5 inches,
all the replacements are 32 inches?
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The original 1962 tach cable housing was light gray plastic coated, and this
was used for all engines that year. I don't recall the length, but it
needs to be the correct length to fit in the short space available.
If a service replacement cable is used, it may be too long and will
cause a kink at the tach. housing that could result in cable breakage.
Normally the cable breaks when the bushings in the tach. head freeze up due to
lack of lubrication. Reach up and try to turn the stub sticking out of
the tach. housing with your fingers. Use the broken off end to assist
you. If the shaft is difficult to turn with your fingers, the bushings
in the head need to be lubricated. You can do this yourself. To do
this, refer to another procedure I prepared for the sacctech website. If
the bushings are worn out (sloppy), you will have to take your tach. to a
speedometer repair shop. Corvette Central offers a rebuilding service.
If you take it to a speedometer repair shop, make sure that they calibrate it
to read twice shaft speed. This is because the distributor
operates at half engine speed.
The inside cable is a speedometer cable made to the proper length.
Speedometer cable repair kits should be available at your local automotive
parts store. You cut the service repair cable to the proper length
and then attach the end on using the procedure that is provided. You
should use a light bodied automotive grease to lubricate the cable while
installing it in the outer housing. Do not use oil.
Larry Pearson
**********
What happens if you don't use the lower clean air tube to the carburetor?
My car seems to run fine without it.
For many years, I’ve had trouble with the choking sticking in the open
position. Just wondering if this could be the cause. Just had the
carb rebuilt. It’s super clean but the choke still sticks. I’ve
heard that the choke housing sometimes warps for some reason. Maybe it
gets too hot.
Chuck
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chuck: The lower clean air tube was not used until 1962. Prior to
that, the lower end of the exhaust manifold choke stove tube was open to the
air, which could result in problems in dusty areas. If you don't use the
lower clean air tube and you live in a dusty area, you should open the choke
housing from time to time and clean out any dirt buildup that you find.
If you find nothing, then there is nothing to worry about. Corvette
Central sells a reproduction for the lower clean air tube. There needs
to be a fitting in the carburetor air horn for a rubber hose from this tube to
connect to. This fitting in the air horn was not there prior to 1962.
If it is there and you aren't using it, you should cap it off.
In my experience, the Carter WCFB carburetors have a big problem with a
sticking choke, and I have not found a reliable fix for it. The choke
housing on them is made of die cast zinc, which can warp The Carter AFB
carburetors I have had experience with give no trouble at all, but the choke
housings on them are made of aluminum. My 1960 230hp engine has the
original WCFB carburetor on it and it sticks open. I have to move it
closed by hand to start the car cold. The problem is that the piston in
the choke housing sticks in the bore. The only way you can properly
access the bore to clean it is to knock out the aluminum freeze plug at the
end of the bore. You can remove the plug by making a tool out of a large
nail (with the point ground off) by bending it so it fits in the bore, and
then tapping it with a hammer to remove the plug. Then you can properly
clean the bore and examine how well the piston fits in the bore. If the
bore is warped, round it out with a file or other tool until the piston fits
loosely in it. The piston and bore must not be lubricated with oil or
grease. The lubricant will collect dirt and make the problem much worse
in the long run. A dry lubricant from a spray can might help if the
problem persists. I have not tried this. When you are done, the aluminum
plug can be tapped back in place with a hammer. Use JB Weld if it won't
stay in place.
**********
I need to replace the trunk lock on my corvette.i am having a problem
attaching the retainer clip. Do I need to remove the trunk emblem to get better
access to the lock?
-Jim
From: Bill Huffman,
Michigan Chapter President: Jim,
It is not necessary to remove the emblem to reset the trunk lock...But it
certainly makes it easier to see what you're doing.
However, replacement parts can be "similar to" as opposed to being
"identical to" the OEM part.
It may be possible for a locksmith to rebuild your original lock rather than
replace it.
Make sure the replacement is "identical to" the original lock, dry fit
the retainer to both new & old outside the car to check fits. If the trunk
lid lock area has been repaired, that may explain why the fit is difficult and
may have to be adjusted.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
The folks that rebuilt my Carter
carburetor say adamantly that with new oxygenated fuels the fuel pressure should
not exceed 3 PSI. They recommend a holly in line regulator. Also
timing set at 30 degrees at 3000 rpm. Any thoughts? Thanks again,
Dave. 4053.
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
I have 3 Carter stock carbs on my '54 and I have a fuel pressure
regulator set at 1.5 psi. The car runs fine and I
crossed county in 2003 with this set-up. If you have another carter carb,
I will leave that to the V-8 guys.
Cheers,
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
What
do the pros think about silicon vs conventional after 100% brake system change
out. Master cylinder, wheel cylinders, drums, shoes and actual
hydraulic lines. Dave, 4053
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Dave,
Speaking
for myself only, every older Corvette brake system I have had to rebuild, wheel
& master cylinders were full of rusty sludge and steel lines were
rusty/rusted through. All have been replaced with new or rebuilt cylinders or
callipers, SS brake lines and silicone based fluid.
Having
owned the same cars for many years (one since 1968), other than pads or
shoes, I have had no brake issues since switching to the silicone based fluid.
The
only down-side is that dot 3 fluid is more readily available. I keep two
bottles in the garage.
Regards,
Bill
Huffman, Pres,
Michigan
Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor:
Dave: I have been using dot 5 Silicone brake fluid in all my cars since
I first became aware of it in 1975 and I think it is wonderful. I have
had no problems with it in these cars I own: 1949 Plymouth, 1951
Oldsmobile, 1955 Cadillac, 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air, 1960 Corvette, 1962
Corvette (2), 1968 Caprice, 1972 Chevrolet C 20 Pickup, 1975 Chevrolet Monza,
1984 Oldsmobile, 1992 Camaro. All US military vehicles use Silicone
brake fluid, because they don't want brake failure. Dot 5 is compatible
with all rubber components that use dot 3.
There are some issues with it, however. First, it is hard to find and is
very expensive. However, since it lasts forever, it is very inexpensive
in the long run. Second, it is extremely difficult to remove from
surfaces you plan to paint. Since it is not a petroleum based product,
petroleum-based solvents will not remove it. I, quite frankly, don't
know what solvent will remove it from surfaces to be painted. California's EPA
has banned all known solvents that remove silicone. You have to sand or
grind it off, and even this might not work. If you spill it on concrete,
it turns white when the concrete gets wet, and this never seems to go away.
When the concrete is dry, it is not visible.
Silicone brake fluid absorbs air in the form of micro-bubbles when it is
agitated in the presence of air. These micro-bubbles will congeal into
large bubbles and will dissipate when the fluid is allowed to sit undisturbed
for at least one day. If you shake the container the fluid becomes milky
with millions of micro-bubbles. For this reason, you cannot pressure
bleed a brake system with Silicone brake fluid, and it probably cannot be used
with abs brake systems because the brake fluid gets violently pulsed when abs
is activated. Silicone brake fluid cannot be used in hydraulic power
window and top systems that use brake fluid. This is because the pump
agitates the brake fluid in the presence of air, causing millions of air
bubbles to form in the reservoir, causing the reservoir to overflow with
bubble filled silicone fluid. I had this happen with a 1948 Buick
hydraulic power top system which I tried to convert to silicone. If you
have to use dot 3, use dot 4 instead. They are supposed to be compatible
and dot 4 is supposed to resist absorbing water.
If you have your silicone equipped vehicle serviced in a shop, they always
will add dot 3 brake fluid to top off your reservoir, no matter what you tell
the mechanic or any signage you use. Most mechanics do not know what dot 5
fluid is, and they definitely do not stock it. The dot 3 fluid goes to the
bottom of the reservoir and does not mix with the dot 5, so you might not be
aware that this was done. Most dot 3 fluids can co-exist with silicone
fluid, but some versions of dot 3 will turn to "jello" when mixed
with silicone. All dot 3 does not have the same chemistry. If you
have a garage service your silicone equipped car, take a plastic tie wrap and
secure the reservoir top so the mechanic cannot get into it.
Because of the agitation problem with dot 5, bleeding a newly overhauled brake
system must be done very slowly. Plan on spending two days doing
it. Remember, though, that if you do it right, the result is, literally,
forever. Start out by carefully and slowly pouring dot 5 into the master
cylinder reservoir to fill it. Let it sit overnight. This will
allow the dot 5 to slowly fill the master cylinder bore. You need a
helper to finish the bleeding. Make sure all bleeder screws and brake
line fittings are tight. Use a clear plastic hose on all bleeder screws
and feed it into a small glass bottle. The clear plastic hose will allow
you to see when the brake fluid starts coming out and is clear of bubbles .
Have your helper go to the right rear brake bleeder screw and open it.
Very slowly push the brake pedal down to the floor and hold it there.
Have the helper close his bleeder screw. Then slowly lift the brake
pedal all the way up. Do not pump the pedal the usual three times and
then have the helper open the bleeder screw. This will cause the dot 5
fluid to be "blasted" through the air-filled lines, and will cause
the fluid to be "aireated" with millions of micro air bubbles, and
you will never get a hard pedal. Repeat this process until you see
clear, bubble-free, dot 5 coming out of the wheel cylinder or caliper.
Then take a hard rubber hammer and rap the cylinder or caliper several times
to dislodge any bubbles stuck inside. Then do the routine again until
there are no bubbles. Make sure that the master cylinder reservoir remains
full throughout the bleeding process. Pour the dot 5 fluid into the
reservoir very slowly to avoid aireation. Move to the left rear, the
right front, and last the left front wheels and repeat this procedure.
When you are done with the left front wheel, you should have a hard pedal.
Push the brake pedal down hard and hold it there and see if it slowly moves
down to the floor. If so, you have a leak somewhere, and you have to fix
it. Dot 3 and 5 fluids are liquids and do not compress. If when
you are done the pedal is somewhat soft, you have air in the system. Let
the car sit for 24 hours, and then repeat the above process until you get a
hard pedal.
You can do the above procedure by yourself, but it is tedious. Cut a
piece of 2x4 to length and wedge it between the brake pedal on the floor and
the front seat cushion. With this you can work both ends by yourself.
Be sure to push the pedal down and then raise it up slowly.
When I converted my brand new 1992 Camaro to dot 5, I did not disassemble and
clean out the brake system. I flushed it out with dot 5 at each wheel
until no more dot 3 came out each bleed screw. I took a turkey baster
and emptied the master cylinder before starting the bleeding process.
Although there probably was some dot 3 still in the system, it now has been 26
years and I have never had any sort of brake failure. The calipers and
the master cylinder are all original.
If you are rebuilding your master and wheel cylinders or calipers, if the
rubber cups are not cracked or worn, I re-use them. Rebuilding kits are
hard to get. Today's
repair kits are made in China and I do not trust anything they make. In
my experience, some of their rubber parts are bad right out of the box.
Never use anything but alcohol as a solvent to clean brake parts.
Petroleum based solvents and lubricants will destroy brake system rubber
parts. Use brake fluid as an assembly lubricant. If you use a
brake hone to clean up the brake system bores, do not attempt to polish the
bores with fine sandpaper. They may leak if you do this. The
finish should be left coarse. This advice came from a man who has a
business rebuilding and re-sleeveing calipers, wheel cylinders and
master cylinders.
Larry Pearson
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Tech Advisor:
I agree with Bill and Larry, I
am a big fan of dot 5 and use it in all my vintage cars. However when bleeding
a C-1 system I always start at the left rear wheel because it is furthest from
the master cylinder......then rt rear, rt front and finally left front.
Bleeding is challenging and time consuming especially the pumping the pedal
method. Years ago I had a friend who would loan me his power bleeder loaded
with dot 5 which had the right top for the C-1 master. Thats the easy and fast
way to do it. He's long gone and I started gravity bleeding. I have a lift and
I get the car 6' in the air. I use a long clear plastic tube and drain it into
a clear bottle. I usually go around the car 4-5 times until all the bubbles
completely disappear, always making sure the master is full. Normally it takes
me 2 days to get a good pedal.
Chip Werstein
**********
1961 Corvette Deck Lid Chrome Clip Installation
Is there a
cut sheet, instructions, anything, showing how to install the chrome clips
and chrome molding that go on the deck lid? Do the clips get installed to
the deck first and the chrome slides over the clips or do the clips go on
the chrome and then attach to the deck lid?
Any help
would be appreciated.
Thanks
Bill

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bill
The clips are installed in the stainless moldings first and then the assembly is
mounted to the convertible deck lid.
There is a good illistration in the 1961 assembly manual in section
E sheet 4.
Chip Werstein
**********
I have a 1960 corvette with dual 4 barrel cards and an
automatic transmission .Did this model have a transmission oil cooler in the
radiator? My radiator is not set up and I do not have any lines
Thanks for your help
Jeff
From:
Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer:
Due to the horsepower to weight ratio of early Corvettes
they did not use a transmission cooler so the transmission itself has 2 brass
plugs installed blocking the passages where lines would connect.
**********
I have owned my 1962 corvette (# matching) for almost 9 years and I’m going
to have the second gear synchronizer replaced. My question is that I dropped the
rear driveshaft from the differential, but the front slip yoke isn’t budging. I
sprayed penetrating oil on it but hasn’t come lose yet. Has anyone have any
ideas? I don’t want to damage my T10.
Thanks
Kevin
From: Doug Prince, SoCal
Chapter advisor: For some reason, GM
decided in model year 1962, to add a ¼ inch spacer between the transmission
mount and the tail shaft. I surmise that GM wanted to cut down on the drive
shaft angle for some reason but you must install this special spacer if you want
to add a Muncie for speed transmission. All 62 C1s had this special spacer. I
worked on a 56 C1 years ago and I pulled the motor and transmission and could
not get the drive shaft splines/yoke splines to line up when I went to reinstall
the drive shaft in the transmission. 56 C1s had a metal protection plate in the
transmission tunnel and this was my problem in getting the yoke and output shaft
splines to line up. Lowering the transmission a little bit solved the problem
and everything went together and worked just fine. Maybe try lowing the
transmission at the transmission mount will allow the yoke to come out
easily…..give it a try before beating on the transmission drive shaft as you
will have to remove the transmission mount to remove the transmission in the
first place. Good luck with this problem.
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter advisor:
Kevin
Usually the reason for the driveshaft not easily sliding off the trans out
put shaft is that the splines on either the output shaft or yoke are
twisted. In the past I have had to pry or carefully hammer the yoke out of
the trans. Once apart, determine which parts are damaged and replace as
necessary.
**********
I have a 59 corvette that is supposed to be original but the engine ID stamp
is SAW903. I am stumped! My understanding is it should start with “F” or “T”.
Casting # is 3794226 D2463 on the block, and the intake casting# is3746829 C69.
I am a new member and could use your help.
Thx,
Lou

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: Louis,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but....an engine with the engine suffix SA
and a casting date of D2463 is most likely a 250 HP 327 from a 1963 Chevy B body
Passenger car w/ automatic & A/C. Casting date was
April 24,
1963.
Your casting number should be 3756519 and a cast date at least two-three weeks
prior to your car's build date.
The intake manifold is the cast iron for the 283 cu-in 230 HP w/4-barrel Carter
WCFB carb. The cast is
March 6,
1959 & may be original depending on your vehicle build date. Build dates are
calculated fairly acurately in the NCRS Corvette Birth-order book from the VIN
number.
You might get lucky & find the car build date on the distributor tag on the
vertical shaft just below the distributor cap, if it is actually the original
distributor. The 230 HP distributor P/N was 1110946."
A Corvette 230 HP/ 283 cu-in from 1959 MY would have a stamped code of Prefix
letter "F", (month A-L because letter I was not used for Sept), day (1-31), year
(8 or 9), application Suffix letters "CQ".
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Living in Belgium an relatively new owner of a 1954 C1 I encounter problems
ordering spares.
Groessmueller seems closed/not replying.
Could you recommend suppliers with 54 spares and good (web) documentation
for ordering?
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
Hi Hans,
I too have a '54 Corvette and it is Venetian red. I too had an issue
finding unique parts for the '53 - '55. I was lucky finding parts from Mary Jo
who used to specialize in these models. She is still in business and her web
site is
www.VetteGal.com and now she sells thru ebay. Her e-mail
isVetteGal@gmail.com or
Mj@VetteGal.com
Try her out.
Good luck & Merry
Christmas,
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
To prevent front wheel bearing early
damage what is the dimension of offset that one should be looking for? Would it
be zero and how are these measurements described? Thanks, Dave. 4053.
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dave: The offset you need is zero, and for the front wheels only. This is
true for all cars unless the front hub is designed to handle an offset with
the original front wheels. Offset does not pose a problem with the rear wheel
bearings because the rear axle bearing already is offset inward from the axle
flange and the offset loads are absorbed by the rear wheel bearing and the
differential side bearing, which can easily handle additional offsets.
If you are purchasing new wheels, the manufacturer tells you about any
offset. Keep in mind that aftermarket wheels wider than 5.5 inches make
steering very difficult unless you install an aftermarket power assisted
steering system in your car. If you are buying used wheels and you don't know
the manufacturer or the model number, you can measure it this way. First,
measure the distance between the flanges where the tire mounts. Then divide
this measurement by two. Then do your best to measure the distance between
the back surface of the wheel that mounts to the wheel hub and the the inside
surface of the wheel flange. You have to estimate this as best you can,
because it can't be directly measured with a ruler, so you have to"eyeball"
it. Put a straight edge across the back of the wheel and measure the distance
from the back mounting surface to it. Then measure the distance from the
inside of the wheel flange to the straight edge and subtract this from the
other measurement. This should give you a pretty accurate measurement. You
should be accurate to within one quarter of an inch. This measurement equals
one-half of the distance between the flanges for zero offset. Offsets of
one-half inch or less should not pose a big maintenance problem. Greater than
one-half inch will cause a maintenance problem with the small outer wheel
bearing. Keep in mind, that if a wheel bearing fails and seizes up, it will
cause damage to the spindle that the bearings ride on. Nobody makes a
reproduction spindle that I know of, so you will have to find a used one. Any
1949-1954 Chevy sedan spindle should work.
The reason that I know this is that a good friend of mine has a 1972 Dodge
Charger with aftermarket aluminum wheels that have an offset. The outer wheel
bearings, which are tapered roller bearings, fail on a regular basis. He
loves those aluminum wheels, so he puts up with the maintenance problem. He
checks those outer wheel bearings on a very regular basis.
Larry Pearson
**********
I'm
restoring a 1962 corvette and have a paint question. Center section to the under
body fiberglass is supposed to be un-painted, there is an extreme amount of
grease from the driveshaft,
I'm concerned that the grease may have stained the fiberglass. How does this
impact the judging if i can't get the stain removed. Also any ideas on how to
remove the stain.
your help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Rick
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Rick,
Your question could probably best be answered in the NCRS Judging Guide for 1962
Corvettes as to whether or not the NCRS judges deduct points for grease on the
bottom side of the transmission/ drive shaft.
Kind of like asking if your homeowners association can make you sell your home
if your lawn has dandelions----you have to read the rule book.
However, removing the grease/stain is a different issue. Clean the underside the
same as you would the engine compartment: scrape off the grease & dirt sludge
with a plastic putty knife, spray on a foaming engine cleanser such as Gunk, let
it work, soft bristle brush the area and rinse with a garden hose. Repeat
process until you're satisfied.
Find a hoist, wear a disposable hooded poncho & have fun.
From: Larry Pearson, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
Rick: I have a 62 and went through what you are trying to do in 1974. This
was for the Western States Corvette Club (WSCC) judging, which, at the time,
was cleanliness only. They sent a skinny judge under the car to check for
dirt and grease on top of the frame and the driveshaft tunnel, and I passed.
I won the Sweepstakes award at that show, which was at the 1974 WSCC National
Convention in Los Angeles, so I know how to clean this area.
Since the car body is fiberglass and will not rust, no special effort was made
at the factory to paint the underbody. And undercoat was never used in this
area or on the frame at the factory. What it got, to some degree, which
varies from car to car, is overspray from the grey primer and the final color
coat. For example, on my 62, the bottom of the doors was mostly grey primer
with a light color coat. It is highly unlikely that this overspray reached
the driveshaft tunnel, so bare fiberglass is expected to be there. What I did
was to carefully scrape off the grease buildup in the area of the transmission
u-joint with a putty knife and then I used lacquer thinner and paper towels to
finish the cleaning. Lacquer thinner will not harm fiberglass in any way, and
may help to remove any staining on the fiberglass. I did not notice any
staining from the u-joint grease on the driveshaft tunnel fiberglass on my
62. However, my 62 did have a small factory repair using woven fiberglass mat
and clear resin towards the rear end of the fiberglass tunnel. I understand
that this was commonly done in this area, and should be acceptable to NCRS
judges, if they can see it. Under no circumstances should you use a paint
stripper like JASCO to remove any staining you encounter. JASCO will destroy
the resins in the fiberglass, and you can not recover from this type of
damage.
NCRS Flight Judging normally does not involve raising the car on a lift, and
without a lift, the judges cannot even see the driveshaft tunnel area. So
don't worry about it. A lift is normally only used for Bowtie judging at the
National Convention.
Larry Pearson
**********
Were the factory installed hood hinges bare metal or painted black on a 57
corvette?
>
> Doug
From:
Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer: Hood hinges, latches, and locks were all
installed prior to paint and blackout process. They were cad plated and also
exhibited some amount of rust inhibitor spray so even though they were sprayed
black during blackout process the paint did rub off very easily.
**********
Hi Guys,
I had Crager G/T wheels on my 61 in the 70's and would like to put a set back
on. I was going to get the American Racing Torg Thrust D wheels, 15x6 VN105D. I
was going to order them from CARiD in New Jersey, but they told me they wouldn't
fit my car. They couldn't tell me why when asked. Has anybody used these wheels,
they are similar to the ones on the 57 on the inner cover the Winter 2018 issue.
Thank you for your time.
Mike
From:
Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer:
My shop installs 17”x7” Retro Billets (a chrome copy of the Torque Thrust)
on C1 and C2 all the time with no issues. 225 45 17 tires. Sometimes very
minor rub on full turn. You should be fine just check clearances before
driving. If you have backspace or offset questions feel free to call me.
Michael Capozzio
Classic Corvette Restorations

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: Make sure that the center line of whatever aftermarket wheel
you choose is directly over the large wheel bearing. If the center
line is offset, in or out, the small outer wheel bearing will take on
more of a load than it was designed for and it will fail. This is
true weather you are using the original ball bearings or after market
tapered roller wheel bearings. The ball bearings are more prone to
failure than tapered roller bearings, so if you must have an offset,
switch over to the aftermarket roller bearings, and check the small
outer bearing frequently for signs of failure. I suggest at least
every 10,000 miles.

From; Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter
Advisor:
I have seen, on a number of occasions, some owners of original C1
Corvettes that still have the original front brake drums riveted to the
front wheel bearing housings. The rivets must be removed for after
market wheels to be installed as the rivets will not allow the
aftermarket wheels to fit flush against the front wheel bearing
housings. Horrible out of balance conditions and possible loss of the
complete wheels can result…..not good!!!
**********
Good Morning
My question is on my 1960 Corvette hardtop, the (3) required
hold down bolts, are they chrome, stainless, or otherwise?
Thank you.
Dennis
From:
Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer: The bolt and receiver nut are stainless
steel.
**********
Hello,
I am a new member
of a few months, can’t find my membership #.
I have a 1959
that I am restoring as original and at present working on the steering. I am
stumped on a simple item. The seal around the hole in the inner fire wall. Most
suppliers offer 2 types of seals, a soft and a hard. Does this car take both or
one or the other?
Thanks, sorry to
bother you for such a minor thing.
Darrell
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Darrell,
The steering column
outer plate & steering column outer seal are forward of the firewall. The
steering column inner seal & steering column inner grommet are in the cabin
behind the firewall. All 4 parts plus the attaching screws are required to seal
around the steering column. Look on page 28 of Paragon Reproductions C-1 catalog
for picture of the assembly.
Good luck with your
project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
I'm looking at a 1961 corvette with 1459 original miles. White with silver
coves and red interior. This is my first attempt at buying a vet of this year
and I'm not sure what is good and bad. The car was repainted but was never
sanded out. All numbers match. The rubber on the door seals look new but the
glue job was sloppy. The dealer said all bushings were replaced but there isn't
any documentation of this. The interior is very good except for a seam on the
drivers seat coming apart. Some of the chrome has pits but looks like it was
chromed over the pits. There is some slop in the steering wheel just not sure if
it's more than an inch. There was surface rust on the Jack and handle in the
trunk so I'm not sure if the trunk leaked or just moisture. The convertible top
is new but it doesn't seal tight against the trunk. I'm not sure what they fit
like when they were new. All that being said its a 283 4b and they want
$57.200 for it. I'm not a mechanic but can do some things so I realize a
professional may be needed. Do you think this is a good deal and what is
critical to look for? This car was never titled and had 1 owner
>>>>
>>>> Mike
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Mike,
All I can say is WOW! 1400 miles and never titled. There must be a great
story behind this car, but I see some red flags here.
* being sold by a dealer. Is this a reputable Corvette dealer?
* any documentation on the one owner and where this car spent it's life?
* Why were the bushings replaced ......what bushings. The a arm bushings
could not possibly be worn out in 1400 miles.
* Why was a low miles car repainted and re chromed?
* the original door, trunk and deck lid weatherstrips were attached with
yellow glue which was applied in a very sloppy manner. Over the years it
would have turned brown.
* an almost new car should have very little steering play. It is
adjustable.
*The poor top fit is most likely top frame adjustment or poorly installed
top.
* Before spending the money I would have it inspected by an early Corvette
specialist.
I wish I could offer more help but it's difficult to access any car
without seeing it.
Chip Werstein
**********
When installing new drag link innards
and tightening screw plugs on each end are these plugs fully tightened when you
can slide cotter pin through holes while aligned with slot in plug? 4053 didn't
pay attention when he disassembled drag link. I don't think that the plugs
will tighten to the point cotter pin could be installed over face of plug
regardless of slot position. Thanks for being there. DAVE.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Dave,
The best exploded view of the C-1 drag link assembly that I have found to answer
your question is on page 29 of the Paragon Reproduction C-1 parts catalog.
The short spring & spacer are installed in the short end of the link that
connects to the third arm. The 2 longer springs & spacers are installed in the
longer end that connects to the steering gear pitman arm.
Make sure that the four bearing surface cups are fully seated to the third arm
or pitman arm studs so there is full contact between the bearing surfaces an the
studs spherical surfaces. Mis-alignment of one of the bearing surfaces may
account for why your rebuild won't assemble properly.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
4053 is surprised to realize that all power systems in car are fed by a #12 gage
wire with starter exception. Without any current protection on this conductor
how often have these wires burned up? Does anyone know what the total current
draw can reach with all systems operating? Thanks, Dave.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dave: This red #12 gauge wire
ends up going to the fuse block or the ignition switch and almost everything
off of these are fused. Four exceptions are the windshield wiper motor the
power top motor, the power window motors, and the headlight switch. All of
these have internal or external circuit breakers. I have never heard of this
red 12 gauge wire burning up.
The total current draw depends
on how many electrical appliances are in operation at once. The small
instrument panel bulbs are 2 1/2 watts each. The fused appliances probably
operate at less than 1/2 of the fuse rating. Add it up. The generator can
produce 35 amps, and this was designed to handle all the expected loads plus
charging the battery. The voltage regulator limits the maximum output of the
generator to 35 amps. If the total load exceeds 35 amps, then the battery
will provide the additional current, and the ammeter will show a discharge. I
have never seen this happen under normal driving conditions except at idle
when the generator is taken out of the circuit by the voltage regulator,
because it cannot provide 12 volts or more at idle speed. The alternator,
which replaced the generator in 1963, can provide enough output at idle.
Larry Pearson
**********
I am looking to purchase a 1962 Corvette with a severely rusted frame. I am
planning to replace the frame with a stock frame but what other year C1 frames
could be used without a great deal of alteration?
Thank you in advance for your answer,
Daniel
Michael: Make sure that the center line of whatever aftermarket wheel you
choose is directly over the large wheel bearing. If the center line is
offset, in or out, the small outer wheel bearing will take on more of a load
than it was designed for and it will fail. This is true weather you are
using the original ball bearings or after market tapered roller wheel
bearings. The ball bearings are more prone to failure than tapered roller
bearings, so if you must have an offset, switch over to the aftermarket
roller bearings, and check the small outer bearing frequently for signs of
failure. I suggest at least every 10,000 miles.
From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
In all due respect I would highly recommend that you DO NOT purchase this 1962
Corvette unless you are absolutely stealing it. If the frame is that rusted out
then so will all of the front and rear suspension parts as well as the rear leaf
springs and sway bars. You will have to do a basically complete “body off”
restoration which is extremely time consuming and very expensive if you have to
sublet all the work out. Buying a C1 or any Corvette in this condition is
asking for a lot of trouble.
**********
I have a 56 corvette with a Muncie transmission that was incorrect for the year.
I had the powerglide that came with the car rebuild. Turns out it is a passenger
car powerglide with the corvette tailhousing. My question is do I have to use
cooling lines or can I run it without the cooling lines to look correct because
I know the corvette powerglides were air cooled. I appreciate your input.
Melody
From:
Max Brockhouse, SACC President Emeritus: No, your PG would be air
cooled.
**********
I have a 1962, 327 cu in, 340hp 4 speed. This is not a judgeable car but one
that is often driven so performance and reliability are more important then
originality. I haven't done a tune-up in many years. With new technological
advances I'd like to know what spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, points,
rotor and condenser I should use? Is Pertronix recommended? Also, is there a
preferred supplier?
From: Doug Prince, SoCal
Chapter Advisor: Your Corvette with the 340 horsepower
option came from the factory with dual ignition points, condenser and dual
window distributor cap. The spark plug wires were the radio suppression type so
not to interfere with the radio, if so equipped. This is all “old school” and
is not advisable for a car that is not judged and is a driver. I have installed
many Pertonixs products in my client’s cars. Their latest drop in electronic
modules are exceptional easy to install with no air gaps required. They provide
a very hot spark with multiple sparks and an adjustable rev limiter. Now none
of this is at all necessary with a driver installation but worth the price in my
opinion. You should install their recommended hotter coil as well. Once you
install these parts you will never have to do it again. The Pertronixs part
number for their electronic module is PNX-71181 and their recommended coil part
number is PNX-40011. These parts are readily available from Summit Racing,
phone number 800-230-3030. Original AC spark plugs are no longer available and
I use Autolite 85s. I use Standard Ignition parts for the rotor and distributor
cap…the rotor is DR-311T and cap is DR-429 Your Corvette came with a dual
window cap for adjusting the points which you will no longer need to do.
Corvette Central offers a very superior replacement spark plug wire set with a
life time warranty and cut to fit, their number 301161, phone number
800-345-4122. It is not rocket science to install these ignition products and
once completed you will never have to do it again.
**********
61 wiper cable adjust.
How is it done? My shop manual says press button on outer end of wiper
transmission shaft. What button? I'm so confused. Thanks, Dave.
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Dave,
First, the WSW
cables on my C-1s are NOT adjustable. The cables are assembled from the
wiper motor pulley to the two wiper shaft pulleys in the opposite direction
so that the wiper arms move inboard together then outboard together at the
same time. This is assuming that the three pulleys are tight to their
respective shaft and the two knurled wiper shaft ends are each attached
tightly to their wiper shaft.
My wiper arms are
adjusted by removing the wiper arm assembly from its shaft, allowing the
wiper motor to cycle to its stop/rest position, then reinstalling the wiper
arms female knurl back onto the wiper shafts male knurl so that the wipers
rest just above the windshield trim in the center of the windshield.
One or the other
may have to be re-adjusted so that they have synchronous but opposite
motion.
If it appears somewhat weak, sloppy & spastic in its movement, just remember
it is a 57 year old machine.
That's why some
owners upgrade to the new modern electric wipers & others just use Rainex
and never turn them on.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer: Dave, C1 wiper transmissions do have
a cable adjustment. The transmission has a set of spring loaded clutches
built in. When you remove the wiper arm and push down on the center of the
transmission post it will move slightly and releases the clutches. When
installing cables you can push on the stub to release the cable tension and
have someone pull on the cables from under the dash to gain a bit of
additional length. Once installed push on the post again and the spring
tension will take up the slack. Problem is the transmission is often worn or
seized in which case it is much easier to just remove transmission from
cowl, install cables on wiper drum, and reinstall transmission into cowl.
Hope this helps.
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The wiper cables are not
really adjustable, but the cable tension can be increased. Over time the
cables can stretch or become loose which reduces the effectiveness of
the wiper system. To do this you push hard on the end of the wiper
transmission shaft to depress it about 3/8". This action releases the
shaft from the tension spring inside the transmission and allows the
spring to tighten up which pulls the cable tight between the
transmission and the wiper motor drum. Next release the shaft so it can
return to it's original up position. Do both sides and the "adjustment"
is complete.
Now for the bad news. Most of the time on old Corvettes one ore both
shafts will not depress because they have rusted/corroded or somehow
frozen in place. For repair the transmissions must be removed and sent
out for rebuilding. ( Mary Jo Rohner in Sand Diego does this.....The
last pair she did for me was $140). Removing and re installing the
transmissions is quite challenging, especially the drivers side. You
may want to have a competent Corvette shop do the job for you.
Chip Werstein
**********
1960 Corvette 230 HP
Does anyone have any ideas on
how to replace the rollers in the turn signal housing?
Thank you,
Terry
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Terry,
Almost any part is replaceable.
The trick is either having the correct nomenclature to find it in the various
catalogs OR have a good picture of what you're looking for. Try the attached
pictures from Paragon Reproductions catalog to see if you find it. There are
lots more pics where these came from.


Good luck in your search.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Terry.
I suspect there is a way to replace the rollers......after all someone put
it together in the first place. But i have never seen it done or know
anybody who has done it. The easy way out is to buy a reproduction. Both
Paragon and Corvette Central offer this part for around $60.
Chip Werstein
**********
SS
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: The correct cab for you 62 340hp
Corvette is a Carter AFB 3269S. They were used on 62 300 and 340HP engines with
manual trans. I believe they were also used on 62 passenger cars with the 300 Hp
327 and manual transmission. Note that they also had a stamped date under the
part #. Example......H 61 which indicates August 1961. This is the date on my 62
340HP Corvette which was built
October
30, 1961.
I am not aware of any published torque spec for lug nuts. My feeling has
always been REALLY TIGHT.
Chip Werstein
From: Doug Prince, SoCal
Chapter Advisor: If you have an adjustable torque wrench 60 foot
pounds should be more than enough. Use increments starting at 20 foot pounds
and increase to 40 and then 60 foot pounds using a “star” pattern from one lug
nut to another so that each lug nut is tightened in three increments.
**********
Hi Gentlemen
I have a 61 corvette fuelie. When i put it back together 20 years ago when
brake pedal was pushed the gas gauge moved up. It didn't bother me then . Now
it does . Replaced the float assembly in tank , Didn't help. I've heard of
this problem before.
HELP
Thanks
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jim S: All 1961 and 1962
Corvettes have this problem. It was this way when the cars were new, and
Chevrolet must have gotten complaints from owners of these cars when they were
new. Maybe there is a service bulletin on it for the dealers, but I have not
seen it.
Here is the cause. First,
remember that the fiberglass body does not conduct electricity, so all
electrical appliances in the car (all lights, the radio, the heater, the
windshield wiper motor, the clock, the gas tank) must end up connecting to the
engine block (not the frame), which is the ground return point for everything
electrical on the Corvette. When the two additional taillights were added in
1961, Chevrolet did not increase the size of the ground return wire in the
taillight wire harness to accommodate the additional current flow from the two
added taillights. It remained at 18 gauge, and this wire size is too small to
handle all this current. It should have been increased to 16 gauge. The gas
tank gauge shares this ground wire (it connects to the taillight ground wire
inside the wire harness). When the brakes are applied, the additional current
overwhelms the 18 gauge ground wire, and the result is that a small voltage
develops on this ground wire, which affects the gas gauge reading. It gets
even worse when the running lights are on. Additionally, the taillights and
the license light are never as bright as they could be if there was a larger
wire size used on the ground return. The gas gauge usually flickers whenever
the turn signal is activated. I have a 1960 Corvette, and none of this
happens with it.
How to fix the problem. The
most direct way is to run a 16 gauge wire from the gas tank ground and route
it under the rocker panel and up to the instrument panel and tie it to one of
the bolts that hold the instrument housing to the metal framework under the
cowl, which is the instrument panel ground. Leave the gas tank ground wire in
place. This should help the taillight ground problem, and the lights should
burn brighter.
If your car came with a
factory radio, there should be two large braided ground straps going from the
front engine mount crossmember to the frame, one on each side. This gives
the frame a good ground connection to the engine block. This was done so that
the frame could act as the ground plane for the radio antenna. On metal cars,
the car body is the ground plane. If these ground straps are not present,
then the frame gets grounded to the engine block through the master brake
cylinder line, and this is not good. A simple fix in the trunk then would be
to connect a 16 gauge wire from one of the taillight housing mounting studs to
the antenna mast ground wire, which is a braided copper conductor that
connects to a bolt that connects to the frame. I have not tried this, but it
should work if the frame has a good ground connection to the engine block, and
if the bolt to the frame is not rusted out. Water can collect in this cavity
and cause rusting. Try this out with a jumper wire with alligator clips.
On the subject of ground
wires, if your Corvette has a radio, there should be three wires connecting to
the upper rear rocker arm cover screws. On the passenger side, there should
be two wires, a green one connecting to the wiper motor mounting plate and a
second heavy black wire connecting through the dash to the radio mounting
bracket. On the driver side, there must be a large black with white stripe
wire connected here. This is the main ground return for all the car
electrical systems except the wiper motor and the radio. It must be there and
in good shape. It conducts a lot of current.
You mention that you replaced
the gas tank sender unit. If you weren't careful, this can cause another
problem. On the factory installation, the steel arm with the float mounted on
it was carefully bent so that the gauge would read accurately. Service
replacement units, including NOS AC units, may not be bent properly. I
installed a new AC unit obtained many years ago from Chevrolet and I
discovered the hard way that the car runs out of gas at 1/8 tank reading. It
should have some gas left when the gauge reads E.
Larry Pearson
**********
I have a 1960 corvette with the auto
transmission .Does anyone know where I can buy a new or used neutral switch
assembly,I need all the assembly? Or is there a conversion aftermarket kit out
there? I had the transmission completely rebuilt but missing these parts.
Thanks
Jeff
From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Jeff,
Look for Corvette Central P/N 591055.
Regards,
Bill Huffman, Pres
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Please let me know the dimensions on a 1960 original front
sway bar from center of eye to center of eye. Mine is a 13/16 bar and measures
34 ½” wanting to know if that is correct.
Thanks
Jeff
From:
Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer: Jeff, you have the correct sway
bar.
**********
Where can I find instructions for removing and reinstalling the radiator in
my 1957 Corvette? Thanks!

From: Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer: Ron, the ST-12 service manual is
a great source for for this but owning a ‘57 myself and doing C1 restoration for
a living I can give you the quick breakdown. Drain radiator (of course). Remove
top hose. Remove fan belt (to aid in removal of upper fan shroud). Removal of
hood is not necessary but helps. You can simply remove the hood support and use
a stick or similar item to prop open further then normal. Remove the bolts
holding fan shroud to support. Remove shroud. Lower radiator hose clamp is
tricky. It may or may not be necessary to unbolt and move the lower fan shroud
shielding out of the way to get to the lower hose clamp. Remove the two front
hood alignment blocks that are just above radiator tank. Now, there should be
(not always as they are often not replaced) two lower radiator bolts that are
accessible in the wheel house area behind the front tire. Once they are removed
radiator should be able to be slid strait up. Best to have two people doing this
to evenly lift it. Reinstall in reverse order. If the two lower bolts were
missing replace them. They really are often missing. This is always a great time
to replace thermostat too. At least a 180 degree. No 160. System needs the
pressure build to properly cool. Hope this helps.
**********
Dear Tech Helpers:
I own a 61 with a 283/230 hp V-8 build date
November 1960. I have owned the car for about 2 years and it is in
very good driver condition with much of its original equipment in place. The
drive train is numbers matching.
The radiator has developed a small intermittent leak from the top of the tank
where the “lollypop” dome joins the discharge tube. I am looking for advice
on the best way to address this before I take the car to a local radiator shop
for a repair. I was wondering if the breach can be cleaned and soldered and
if so, what is the proper way to do this? Or, could I use an epoxy repair to
caulk the leak at least temporarily? If so, what do you recommend?
I have a black aluminum Harrison radiator with the correct stock number in the
car that appears to be period correct from the design but when I checked, the
date stamp on the plate dates the radiator January of 62 (62A). So, it
appears to be a replacement installed some time ago, perhaps early on in the
life of the car.
Also,
I understand from my research that early 61’s used the same model radiator but
it was left unpainted.
Can
anyone verify this for me since if I need to eventually replace the radiator,
I would want to do so with one that is correct for my build date.
Thanks in advance for your help on this.
Joe
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor:
Joe: You don't say if this
car is to be NCRS judged or if it is just a "driver". If it is to be judged,
then acquire a copy of the NCRS judging guide and follow what it says. Is the
leaking radiator a Harrison aluminum radiator? If so, a radiator shop can't
fix it with solder, because aluminum can't be soldered like copper and brass
can. Radiator shops typically use epoxy cement to repair aluminum radiators,
so you can do this yourself. A leak in this area is common and you can
repair it with JB Weld. Carefully clean all paint, moisture, and corrosion
from the repair spot before applying the JB Weld. It is best to do this with
the radiator out of the car so it can be tipped to get the JB Weld to stay in
the proper location. Heating JB Weld speeds up the curing process, because it
is difficult to keep it from sagging before it cures. My late 1962 still has
the original 62B radiator in it and I repaired it in this area over 40 years
ago, and it is still holding up. But I seldom drive it. Be advised that when
these Harrison aluminum radiators are taken out of service and dry out, severe
internal corrosion can take place. Many restorers keep these aluminum
radiators filled with coolant while restoring their cars to prevent this
corrosion problem. Or try filling the radiator with nitrogen gas to prevent
this oxidation. Most premium tire shops use nitrogen gas to fill new tires.
The earliest 1961 base engine
cars used the 1960 copper radiator. Harrison aluminum radiators were an
option on the 1960 Corvettes. The early Harrison aluminum radiators came in
bright aluminum or black anodized aluminum (not painted). Some of these early
radiators had aluminum top tanks on them. Harrison aluminum radiators cool
much better than any copper
radiator can that fits in the same space. This is essential for 62 and later
Corvettes with the 327 engines. Always use full strength green antifreeze
filled to a 50-50 dilution with distilled water from the grocery store. Don't
use pre-mix antifreeze, because you don't know what kind of water they diluted
it with. Tap water can have minerals in it that can damage your aluminum
radiator. De-ionized water is available commercially. It is used to clean
corrosion from metal containers. Some radiator shops use it to clean copper
radiators and gas tanks. If you use it to dilute your antifreeze, it will
immediately dissolve your aluminum radiator.
Complete, correct and dated
reproduction radiators can be purchased from a company named DeWitt. They
know what configuration your car needs and can build an exact reproduction of
it. But this doesn't come cheap. Plan to spend at least $1000 for one of
their radiators. Go online to find them.
Larry Pearson
**********
I am a recent member of SACC and am looking for somebody in the central part
of California to install a new top in my 1957 Corvette. I have heard that
there is somebody that will even do house calls. Anybody know of this?
From: Chip
Werstein, SoCal Chapter President:
Jay,
Adam Parker from Phoenix is probably the best there is for C-1 convert tops
480-251-6352. Not sure he's doing it any more but if he got a group in Calif
who needed tops he would he would come over for a week and install the tops at
your house. Check with him. He's done several tops for me and many for
SOCALSACC members. Also Sully's in Fresno 559-291-8680, but I have never used
them.
Chip Werstein
**********
Hi
I have a 1957 Corvette in Venetian Red with a Beige
interior. I was wondering what is the correct color of the trunk matt, red or
black?
Thanks, Bob

From: Michael Capozzio, Restorer in Ohio: Normally the 56-57
trunk mat is red for red colored interior and black for beige colored interior.
**********
I have a '59 Vette and the fuel gauge pegs to the right when the key is in
the start position. I have confirmed that the ground is connected to the back of
the gauge; where do I go from here? Is my sending unit toast?
From:
Michael Capozzio, Restorer in Ohio: The back of the fuel gauge has 2
wires. The pink is 12 volts power. The brown is ground with variable resistance
coming from the sending unit. Disconnect the brown from the fuel gauge and see
if it goes to “E” with key on. Also, using a multimeter set to ohms check the
resistance of the brown wire. It should go from basically 0 ohms empty tank to
about 30 ohms full tank. Always best to pull sending unit from tank and check
resistance as you move float. If you decide to replace sending unit be careful
as cheaper units do not have correct resistance to make gauge read properly.
Best solution is to rebuild original sending unit. If it checks out okay and you
decide to rebuild gauge there are several reputable rebuilders out there.
**********
Was getting ready for parade and stopped at bank. Car now won't shift
into any of the 4 gears but I can force it into reverse but even then it
won't move.
I'm hoping it's just a linkage problem and not the transmission
itself.
It's a 283 four speed. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Keith
I had a similar situation with one of my cars. Turns out the
transmission had locked it self in 2 gears. I put the shifter in neutral and
got under the car to check the position of the 3 levers on the trans. Reverse
and 1-2 levers were in neutral. 3-4 lever was slightly engaged in 3rd. I moved
it a very small distance and it clicked into neutral. Problem solved but i dont
know what caused it in the first place.
Chip Werstein

From: Michael Capozzio, Ohio: Try manually putting shift arms
in transmission into neutral. If it’s stuck in gear it will go into reverse but
will bind and not move. If the arms won’t go into reverse it may have a broken
shift fork.
**********
Hello !
Previous member has a question about making a strong repair to the
chrome door post on a '62. Previous owner was using the post as a
handle to close the door and has resulted in a week post attachment.
What is the best way to reattach the post so that it will become an
integral part of the door again. We won't be using the post as a
handle, but there is considerable mechanical advantage acting on the
attachment point.
Thanks,
Gary
From: Chip
Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Corvette central offers door post
repair. The tabs are broken because the windshield was not shimmed properly at
the rear of the post. Consult aim for more info.
Chip Werstein
**********
Hi guys,
I’m prepping my car for the NCRS National meet in Las Vegas in July. I got a
call from the National Judging Chairman concerning the state of my VIN tag on
the steering column. Apparently it was determined from photos taken at
previous Regional meets (all Top Flight results) that the tag is not a factory
applied tag. I was told this is a common issue with ‘62s because the spot weld
is not that secure. I was asked to check the frame stamp to verify and to
obtain a California state issued VIN Tag to bring with me to the meet. While
all documentation indicate the correct and matching VIN # apparently I need
this document.
Has anyone had this problem and does anyone know the quickest way to get it
resolved. Unfortunately the meet is only 6 weeks away and DMV isn’t usually
work in an expedited mode.
Thanks for the help!
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
I had a similar situation with the DMV on my '54 when I changed to YOM plates.
They needed to verify the VIN on the frame did agree with the door VIN #. They
were not able to crawl under the car to verify the VIN # on the frame so, they
referred me to the CHP. I called the local (Ventura) CHP office and made an
appointment to have them verify and they set it up in less than 2 weeks.
Hint- Locate and clean the frame VIN # (I believe
it is on the frame in '62?) before you take it to the CHP. They will give you
the proper paperwork for the DMV which you can use to show to the NCRS.
Good luck,
Bruce Fuhrman
Secretary SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Steve: The issue is that the NCRS
"experts" have analyzed the characters and shape of your VIN tag from
photographs, and feel that it is a reproduction. You need to check this out,
because if the NCRS judges at the Las Vegas National Convention determine that
the tag is a reproduction, they might fail your car even if the VIN number on
the tag matches the frame number. You need to compare your tag with a known
"good" tag and carefully compare the size and shape and spacing of the
characters and the tag itself. Do the spot welds look right, or is it glued
or pop riveted on? If the tag is a reproduction, but you can prove that the
VIN matches the frame stamping, will they pass the car? It is hard to see or
photograph the stamping on the top of the frame without cutting a hole in the
floor pan or taking the body off the frame. If your frame is rusty on top,
the frame stamping may not be legible.
It is unfortunate that this issue
did not come up at a Chapter or Regional judging, but the annual National
Convention judges usually are the most experienced in the Club, and they have
the last word.
A California State issued VIN tag
is a sticker that DMV makes up to replace a completely missing VIN tag. Your
VIN tag is not missing. If your frame stamping VIN is different from the
steering column VIN, your car may have been stolen. Nothing but bad news
here. My 62 was stolen on
November 3, 1971, and I am sure that it is out there somewhere.
Larry Pearson
**********
Hello Folks,
I feel like I know what I am doing in this 59 restoration but instead of
telling you how hard I have tried to determine if I have a early 59 or a late
59; could you please tell me if there is an easy way to know?
VIN =
J595107364
Thank you
Darrell

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
This car # 7364 was built
May 8, 1959. Total 59 corvette production was 9670 which
means your car was in the last 25% of the cars built for that model year.
This makes it a late car rather than early. I believe there may have been
some small differences between early and late 59's like carpet style and
speaker grill, but I don't have good data on that subject. I would
suggest contacting the NCRS 59 team leader for additional accurate info.
Chip Werstein
**********
I ordered a new fuel pump from paragon and the
fittings are 180 degrees opposite my original pump. Are there different
configurations for other fuel supply systems? I have 1 4bbl. My car is a 61
and engine is a 64 327 but fuel line on frame is in original location I believe.
Dave
From: Larry Pearson, SoCal
Chapter advisor:
Dave: I still have the original
pump from my first 1962, and it is configured exactly like the service
replacement pump you received from Paragon. The original AC catalog number
was 4656, and that number is stamped on the edge of the mounting flange at the
2 o'clock position. The top is marked "AC" in the original mold, and the
aluminum bottom cover is marked "AC" in large letters. The original brass
inlet fitting is a hex shaped 45 degrees, not the 90 degree fitting you show.
This fitting is available as a reproduction. The outlet fitting is a brass 90
degree fitting facing upward, not the straight fitting you show. The original
all steel fuel line to the carburetor had a "dog leg" shape to it to connect
it to the 90 degree fitting. You should be able to obtain a reproduction of
this line from the suppliers. Your car originally came with a Carter WCFB
carburetor with the inlet in front left side. If you are using some other
type carburetor, like Holly, the original style steel line won't work. An AFB
Carter carburetor requires a different shaped fuel line from the pump. The
original AFB carburetors used on the 300 and 340 hp engines had a glass bowl
fuel filter feeding into a threaded inlet on the carburetor, so the gas line
from the fuel pump was very different. The WCFB carburetors had a flared
fitting for the inlet and there was a bronze filter behind the inlet fitting
inside the carburetor.
If you want to modify the new pump
to be configured like your old pump, it is easy to do. Just remove the 10
screws that hold the bottom casting to the top casting and re-orient the
bottom until it matches your old unit. The cover screws are evenly spaced, so
you can do this. When replacing the screws, you must compress the the
actuator arm in a vice until the rubber diaphragm is completely level with the
mounting surface before installing the mounting screws. Tighten all the
screws completely in a cross sequence before removing the pump from the vice.
Larry Pearson
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter advisor: Dave, Paragon sells a
reproduction 4656 pump that is spot on. It is made here in los angeles. They re
cast the orignal parts and even stamp 4656 on the flange. I have purchased
several over the years and never had a problem.
Chip Werstein
**********
Can you please confirm that an original C1 lug wrench has a "0" on it, and
fits a 7/16-20 thread with an external measurement of 3/4"?
Also, do you have any idea where I can get a horizontal metal reinforcement
piece that is riveted to the fiberglass to support the convertible top. This
piece fits right behind the seats. Unfortunately, my ex-restoration person
lost mine!
Thanks for your help.
From: Larry Pearson, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
George: You don't say what
year C1 you have. Are you restoring the car for NCRS judging or for a
driver? If for NCRS, you need to obtain a copy of the judging guide for your
year and follow what they say for the lug wrench. Otherwise, anything that
fits your lug nuts and fits in the trunk will do. Go to an auto salvage yard
for this. Or buy a 4-way combination lug wrench at your local auto parts
store. You will also need a large screwdriver to remove the wheel covers.
Corvette Central sells an "exact" reproduction of the lug wrench, but it is
very expensive.
The horizontal steel
reinforcement piece for the convertible top is not "behind the seats". It is
inside the gas tank area, and it should still be there. Why would anyone
remove it? This reinforcement was there when the body was built, regardless
of weather the car originally came with a convertible top. If it really is
"gone", call Corvette Central or Paragon to see if you can get a used
replacement. This is not a high demand item.
If you are talking about the
left and right vertical reinforcement plates, they are behind the seats and
could have been removed and lost. They were only there if the car came with a
convertible top and were painted the body color. I don't think they are
reproduced, so you will have to find used replacements. Try the above two
sources if you need these.
**********
I am looking to restore the trunk area of my 1961 Corvette. My car is Ermine
White (believed to be the original color from all forensic inspection) with
white coves and red interior and I enjoy driving her regularly. The car is in
95% of stock condition following what I was told was a cosmetic restoration in
the 1980s and still holding up well. At that time, the former owner chose to
have the inside of the trunk and convertible top compartment painted black.
I would like to gradually restore the car to original condition and would
appreciate any information that you can share.
I have the following questions:
-
Paint Color: Am I correct that the interior of the trunk area and spare tire
well are to be painted the same color as the exterior of the car?
-
Spare Tire Well: My car happened to come with one Firestone Bias Ply White
Wall Tire that does not fit into the well without the plywood top ( I do have
the original top) sitting into the depression of the rim of the well. (the
four driving tires have been changed to radials). I suspect that the bias ply
tire is not an original relic but rather a later reproduction that appears to
fat for the height of the well. My question is, did the original tires fit
into the well such that the original plywood cover fits neatly into the rim of
the well?
-
Jack, handle & tire iron: Alas, the car did not come with its original jack,
handle and tire iron and after being frustrated in my search for originals at
various venues, I would like to buy a quality reproduction jack, handle and
tire iron and would like your recommendation on the right source for such
parts.
Thanks again in advance as always for the advice. I truly appreciate being
part of SACC.
Regards,
Joe

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Joe: If you plan to have
your car judged by NCRS, you should obtain a copy of their Judging Guide and
follow the details exactly. There are a lot of nit-picky things they want
to see. So I will assume that you want a correct "driver" car. In answer
to your questions:
1. The entire trunk area
including the area behind the cardboard should be painted Irmine White. The
entire convertible top area should be painted Irmine White, including behind
the seats. I have one 60 and two 62's. The trunk cardboard and trunk mat
should match the interior color.
2. All the wheels,
including the spare, should be painted Irmine white. If you have the
optional 5.5 inch wheels, they should be painted black.
Today's reproduction 6.70x15 bias ply tires are wider than 6.7
inches and won't fit in the tire well. The original 6.70x15 tires fit in
the well perfectly. Both my 62's have original 6.70x15 spare tires, and
they fit in the well perfectly. If you want your reproduction 6/70x15 tire
to fit, let the air out and carry a portable electric tire pump in the car.
What I did on my 60, I bought a 6.40x15 tire for the spare. It fits
perfectly.
3. Corvette Central is my
favorite source for reproduction items. However the reproduction scissors
jack they sell is not considered to be safe to use, and it is very
expensive. It just looks correct. This same jack is in my 60, and when I
got the car, it was literally in pieces. One of my 62's had nothing. I
bought a quality scissors jack from Pep Boys and modified the handle to fit
in the slot in the trunk floor. I got a lug wrench at a salvage yard. This
was 40 years ago.
Larry Pearson
**********
I just put on new rear shock on my 62 Vette because I found the old ones were
bad. The suspension was bottoming out hitting the bumper stops hard. After the
shocks it's better but still bottoms out when I hit dip in the road. Is this
normal for these cars or what do you suggest.
From: Doug Prince,
SoCal Chapter Advisor: Gary if your leaf springs are original then
I surmise that they are worn out and sagging. You will need to have them
removed and taken to a reliable leaf spring rebuilder. Fellow contributor, Chip
Werstein, can give you the original height specifications as these dimensions
are very critical to get it right the first time. Replace all the rubber
bushings and lubricate them in the shackles. Good luck with your project as
many C1 owners have crossed this bridge before and it is not Rocket Science to
make this repair as the hardest part is finding somebody in your area who knows
what they are doing.
**********
I have a 1960 corvette.VIN #00867S106796 should tag be on column or inside
driver door?
Thanks
Jeff
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jeff,
Your vin tag should be spot welded to the steering column.
Chip Werstein
From:
Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:
Jeff,
Only early '60s had the VIN tag screwed to the door. Your's is way
past the date where they were moved to the steering column and
welded. Therefore, yours should be welded to the steering column.
Brad
**********
I have a 1956 corvette. My question is what kind of oil (and how much) do I
put in the oil tube attached to the distributor and also I see oil caps on the
generator. Does it need oil also? Thanks for you time.
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Both your generator and
distributor should be lubricated with a couple drops of engine oil every
1000 miles. This is according to the Corvette shop manual ST 12 which every
C-1 owner should have. It is available from any Corvette parts supplier.
BUT if your distributor and/or generator has been rebuilt ( which is quite
likely after 60+ years ) it will probably have sealed bearings which
require no lubrication. If you were to oil sealed bearings i don't think
it would cause any harm.
Chip Werstein
**********
Fellow members,
I’m going to attempt to reseal
my washer pump. Having had enough experience, I do not want to attempt this
without a exploded drawing of a Trico vacuum pump. The factory manuals Chevrolet
and Corvette supplements Do not touch on this procedure. The service kit I
purchased from C.C. did not have this needed diagram. Would any of you be
willing to share this information with the Corvette world and myself.
Paul from Michigan
1960 2x4 270 hp
From: Doug Prince, SoCal
Chapter Advisor: Capital Auto
Restoration used to rebuild and restore C1 washer pumps, 301-948-9481….very
expensive but they are not easy to do….good luck with this project
From:
Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:
I applaud your desire to do this yourself.
Frankly, I've always relied on professionals for windshield wiper related
rebuilds, specifically SACC member, Tom Maxwell, who rebuilt two windshield
motors and one windshield washer pump for me. Unfortunately, Tom passed away
a few years ago. I believe his son, who worked with Tom, now operates the
business. The contact information I have is: Capitol Auto Restoration
301-948-9481.
Good luck, either way you go.
**********
I bought a car pretty much in pieces .Wondering what the piece was on each end
of the grill .Was it fiberglass or metal was it paint car color or black? Also I
am 6’4 any ideas to get little more room?
Thanks
Jeff

From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Jeff,
For the answer(s) to your first question, you need an 1960 Assembly Manual
(Mid-America sells a good one), a C-1 parts catalog from Paragon Reproductios or
Corvette Central to really see all the parts your car is missing.
On 1958-1962 Corvettes frontal area on either side of the grill opening is one
fiberglass panel that entends from one wheel opening to the other. The intended
function of the recessed areas on both sides is to provide an air inlet to cool
the heavy duty racing brake (called "Big Brake") RPO. Each side has an upper &
lower diecast & chromed eyebrow trim bezel above & below the bumper. Since Big
Brakes are a rare option, most owners paint the recessed area black.
Your second question is tougher.
Although some big guys own, drive & love them, the early Corvettes were designed
for 5' 9" - 165lb people or very limber contortionists to be able to
ingress/egress. Depending on your difficulty here are some options: 15 inch
steering wheel vs stock 17 inch, remove some seat padding, replace steering
column with Ididit tilt column OR just drive it with the top down only.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jeff: The 1961 and 62 seats
were completely redesigned and you get about two inches more room room in both
directions. If you know someone with a 61 or 62, try it out. My brother is
6'-4" and fits in my 62 fairly well and enjoys driving it. The problem is
that the 61-62 seats mount to the floor completely differently than the pre-61
seats do. But you con make it work. Or buy a 61 or 62.
Another possibility is that
your seats are re-upholstered and have too much stuffing. Both the bottom and
back should be concave, not convex. Most upholstery shops way over-stuff the
C-1 seats. I will try to send a photograph in a different email from a Motor
Trend road test showing the seats in a new 1959 Corvette.
Jeff: See the attached file for a photo from Petersen publishing showing
Ray Brock sitting in a new 1959 Corvette. Observe the passenger seat bottom
and the pronounced depression in it. This is a new car with new seats. The
1960 seats are the same, except that the pleats go front to back. If your
seats are overstuffed, you may be able to gain as much as two inches in both
directions.
Larry Pearson

**********
Please help me to clear some confusion I am having on my Trunk Mat. My
question is, does the Trunk Mat go under the Trunk Liner or does it butt to
it???
Thank You
Dennis
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I have an unrestored 1960 with
the original trunk mat. The mat buts up to the cardboard trunk liner. You
have to be able to remove the trunk mat to access the spare tire. If it is
under the cardboard liner you would have to remove the liner to remove the
trunk mat to access the spare tire.
Larry Pearson
**********
I am going to have my 61 T-10 rebuilt and mechanic suggested changing out
course spline tailshaft and yoke for fine. Is this a good idea? Not a hard
driver, worth the $?
From: Doug Prince, SoCal
Chapter Advisor: In my opinion it is not worth the money unless you
were going to start drag racing with drag slicks.
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The 57 through 62 Corvettes
with the T-10 transmission all had a course spline output shaft and came with
a long driveshaft yoke. The long yoke was necessary because the rear axle
movement up and down with the short driveshaft used in these cars caused a lot
of in and out movement of the yoke in the transmission output shaft. A short
yoke, which the midyear Corvettes used, might disingage from the transmission
tail shaft if the car encounters a large bump at speed. Even the long yoke
can disingage from the transmission if the rear axle rebound straps are
missing. The Muncie transmissions came with a fine spline and used a short
yoke because there is no up and down movement of the differential with the
Stingray Corvettes. It is my understanding that the late service replacement
T-10's could be had with a fine spline output. Corvette Central sells a long
yoke with a fine spline so that Muncie transmissions can be installed in the
C1 Corvette. Because of the long driveshaft used in sedans, a long yoke was
not needed.
In response to your question,
it makes absolutely no sense to change to a fine spline output shaft in your
1961 Corvette.
Larry Pearson
**********
I have a 1959 corvette 283 carb
4 speed
I want to take out the
speedometer to have it fixed
Paul
From: Doug Prince, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
Paul,
This is a pretty straight
forward project but is not as easy as may seem to someone who has never done
this before. You will need to completely remove the instrument housing
containing all the gauges, the speedometer housing, the tachometer housing, the
ignition switch, the headlight switch, the wiper transmission cable and the
cigarette lighter. The speedometer and tachometer cables will have to
disconnected, the headlight switch harness, the ignition harness and the oil
pressure line. The main wiring harness connections to the gauges will all have
to be disconnected as well as the instrument housing light bulbs. I suggest
that you remove the steering wheel in order to gain better access to all of the
disconnections of the instrument housing. Mark or write down all of the main
wiring harness to instrument gauges connections for proper reassembly. Patience
is a virtue and good luck with this project.
**********
I bought a 1960 corvette with engine and
transmission removed. Getting ready to install the engine .It appears that the
driver side engine mount frame bracket is higher than the one on the passenger
side? Is this correct or should they be level from one side to the other? Are
they adjustable or should I buy a replacement.Also I thought I would check all
the steering and the 3 arm raises and lowers slightly when turning the wheel.
Car has been sitting for along time so I thought I would replace the bearing and
the seal and thoughts?
Thanks
Jeff
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Jeff,
I've got more questions than answers here and a few red flags.
The two motor bracket mounting surfaces should be approximately level with the
ground.
New brackets are available, but if you bought them, unless one is noticeably
deformed I suspect they will be identical to what you have. The 3rd arm
articulation makes me suspect uncorrected front end accident damage to either
the frame or to the steering/suspension components. Checking the fender opening
to tire height from left to right might give you a clue as to how much
distortion you're dealing with. While you are replacing the 3rd arm bearing &
seal, there are other components that contribute to steering instability. Wheel
bearings, king pins, worn/poorly adjusted steering gear, drag link lube &
adjustment and tie rod ends all need to be checked/lubed/replaced.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Would like to set up fronts to match rears. Any ideas? Thanks, Dave


From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dave,
It's hard to tell from the pictures, but they look like chrome reverse
wheels with 57-62 corvette centers.. The spinner and adapter are
cool.......probably home made.
Chip Werstein
**********
I would like to know if I can lift car at a central point, front or back, and
lift both wheels at the same time. Pumpkin? Thanks, Dave
From
Bill Huffman:
Dave,
I have used a floor jack to raise my C-1s using a center lift point for many
years. I lift the front under the steering front cross member using a 16 inch
long 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 cross-ways to distribute the load.
DO NOT USE THE THIRD ARM BEARING AS A SUPPORT. It is nodular cast iron & WILL
break.
The rear can be lifted using the differential housing. However, here I also use
a short 2 x 4 to distribute the load & not damage the paint.
The floor jack is for lifting only.
Put the jack stands under the car then remove the floor jack to relieve stress
on the car frame & chassis.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
I would like to lift both wheels front or rear safely to place jack stands. I
don't want to twist body if possible. When lifted what is best location to set
stands? Thanks, Dave
From: Doug Prince,
SoCal Chapter Advisor: The strongest and safest place to place your jack
stands would be directly onto the main frame trusses that run front to rear.
Place the front stands just before the frame truss starts to turn inward at the
engine firewall. The rear stands should be placed at where the rear spring
axles met the rear frame truss. The stands should be directly across from each
other. This arrangement will give total support to the body and attached
suspensions parts.
**********
Hello to all,
I have a 1962 corvette and am
thinking about getting the windshield washer pump going again. I have two small
rubber hoses coming out of the firewall up high on the passenger side and also
have the washer fluid tank and pump. I've been looking for a diagram to show me
what parts are missing and how and where they go together.
What I do find is a diagram showing the windshield washer unit over on the
drivers side rather than the passenger side by the battery, but I cannot find a
picture showing where everything bolts up.
I would be grateful if you can point me to a picture showing how the unit goes
together in the chassis on the passenger side. (brackets and where they mount
etc.)
Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks again,
From: Doug
Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
If your 62 Corvette has any preexisting
windshield washer parts and hoses on the passenger side it would indicate that
your Corvette was fuel injected. Al 1958-1962 fuel injected Corvettes had the
windshield washer system installed on the passenger side because with the fuel
injection air cleaner being mounted on the driver’s side it would have made it
too difficult to service the washer bottle tank. Fuel injected Corvettes had a
vacuum reserve tank bolted to a special nut plate on the inner fender as well as
a special aluminum heat shield that was held on the inner fender near the
battery. This shield was held to the inner fender by three screws. Purchase a
1962 Corvette assembly manual from either Paragon or Corvette Central and there
is a chapter on the fuel injection option which gives a very detailed diagram of
how all the windshield washer parts were located. Good luck with your project.
**********
"The 1960 Corvette is the first year that did not feature the VIN tag in the
door jamb."
Not case of My '60, VIN # 100.
My VIN number IS on the door jamb !
John
From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice
President:
You are correct on both accounts! The change of relocating the VIN plate
from the front driver's door frame (with screws) occurred on the 1960 model,
but did not actually happen until after serial number 1406, but before
1563. After which, they were spot welded to the steering column.
So... your #100 1960 has the VIN number in the proper location. I own
#924 which, like yours, the VIN is located on the door frame. If you have
Noland Adam's Restoration Guide, this is referenced on page #255.
From: Chip
Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
In 1960 the vin moved from the door jam to tje steering
column at vin 3000
Chip Werstein
From
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
John,
Having several 1960 Corvette owners in our chapter, in comparing our cars, we
found that the switch in VIN location occurred between
28 Oct
1959 &
28 Dec
1959. The change was between VIN #s 1100 & 1900. Stamping the VIN
# on the engine stamp pad occurred later, in early 1960.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
what GM wheels interchange with a stock 59 corvette wheel 15 / 5? it is said
to be a 49 chevy sedan is this true?
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Original 1959 Corvette 15 X 5 wheels had the dogbone weld slot, not the riveted
wheels that most swap meet vendors try to sell you. Also, after 60 years, most
original rims will have worn, elongated or enlarged lug nut holes that are
downright dangerous. If you have a driver as opposed to a matching numbers
museum piece, it is far easier & less expensive to buy a new 4 wheel set from
Corvette Central than it is to find a complete set of good original wheels. https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/wheels/hubcap-wheel/56-62-15-x-5-new-rim-wheel-welded-set-of-4-641143?returnurl=%2fc1-53-62%2fwheels%2fhubcap-wheel%2f
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The 55 and 56 Chevy wheel is
nearly identical to the stock 56-62 Corvette wheel. They are 15x5, have the
hubcap nubs and are rivited, not welded. Once installed on your car it is
likely that no one will ever know they are not Corvette wheels except an
NCRS judge and he'd have to be laying under the car to tell.
Chip Werstein
**********
I am not an experienced mechanic and have created a monster. I have
totally disassembled my '60 over the past ten years. In that process I
have removed the rear axles several years ago and am finally getting
back into reassembling the car.
For the life of me I cannot find any detailed drawing, including the
"official manuals" that shows how the axles fit into the differential
and what holds them in. I am now 72 and have a hard time remembering
much of anything, so I do not remember how I took them apart.
Can someone help describe the process of reassembling the axles to the
differential?
Also, I have already installed the drive shaft back into the drive
train. Do I need to remove the drive shaft and the front of the
differential to be able to see into the differential to install the axles?
Thank you
Tom
From:
Bill Huffman: Michigan Chapter President:Tom,
Almost any service question regarding your 1960 can be answered by the 1953-1962
Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12. Below is Section 4, Rear Suspension & Driveline.
Section 4, Rear Suspension & Driveline would be of help for you.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Hello:
I am looking for advice on how to rebuild my 1961 Corvette
speedometer. (VIN No. 10867S102739)
The speedometer failed last year and when I removed the
unit I found that a 3/8” piece of the tip of the old speedo cable (red plastic
square shaped piece) had broken off in the back of the connection port. I was
able to remove this and then reinstalled the speedometer with a new cable from
Corvette Central. Unfortunately it appears that there is a bigger issue. The
speedo now moves but erratically and with a distressing ticking noise coming
from the speedometer itself. I am thinking now that the internal issue is what
caused the old cable end to break off in the unit.
I am pretty handy and was wondering if there is any
literature no how to rebuild the speedometer or if not, can you recommend a
reputable rebuilder. Thanks in advance for your help,
Joe
From:
Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:
Joe,
Sounds as if your diagnosis is right on.
I perform a lot of my own maintenance, however when it comes to
instrumentation I leave that to the pros. For this I've had good
experience with "Clocks by Roger" in Chattanooga, TN.
Maybe someone else can direct you to the technical information you need to
rebuild your speedometer, but this is the route I'd pursue.
Brad
From:
Max Brockhouse, SACC President:
I hear what you are
saying. I too, also rebuilt my '58 speedometer and had the same problem.
I finally sent it to Corvette Clocks by Roger and problem was solved. 24
Leisure Lane, Jackson, TN 38305 731/664/6120==731/644/1627fax. Max
Brockhouse, President SACC
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Joe,
Original speedometer cables didn't have plastic molded tips. I made the
mistake of installing an aftermarket one a few years ago. It was too
short, chattered & promply twisted the plastic end off. Your speedo cable
should be 70 inches long with crimped ends on a steel cable and a black
jacket. Try Paragon Reproduction P/N 1868 or Corvette Central P/N SKU
211401.
Make sure the cable is lubed properly & the ends are seated into both the
speedometer head & the transmission driven gear.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Joe: Your Corvette's
speedometer and tachometer are mechanical devices that indicate your car
and your engine speed by a spinning cable that spins a bar magnet inside
a metal cup, called the speed cup, that moves the pointer. The cable
has a square end on it that inserts into a square hole at the back of
the speedometer (or tachometer) housing. The input to the speedometer
mechanism is a steel shaft about two inches long supported by two bronze
(Oilite) bushings that are permanently lubricated. The other end of
this shaft attaches to the bar magnet. Over time the lubricant dries
out and can cause this shaft to bind in the two bushings, causing the
cable to break. Or the bushings can wear out causing the spinning
magnet to come in physical contact with the speed cup and cause a
"clanging" sound when the car is driven at speed. If this is the case
with you, continuing to drive the car can destroy the speed cup, and new
parts are not available to repair it. The speedometer shop will likely
get the needed parts out of a used speedometer. The steel shaft also
has a worm gear cut on it that drives the odometer readout through a
series of gears.
To determine what your
problem is, disconnect the speedometer cable housing from the
speedometer head. There is a 1/8th inch part of the shaft exposed,
Grab it with your finger tips and to try to move it up and down and side
to side. If there is noticeable movement, then the bushings are worn
out and you will have to remove the speedometer and have it rebuilt at a
speedometer shop. This problem normally does not cause binding that
breaks the cable, so it is unlikely to be your problem. Then take the
broken off cable stub and insert into the shaft and try to spin it with
your fingers. If resistance is noted, then the bushings are dry and
need to be re-lubricated. You can do this yourself if you are handy,
and you say you are. While you are at it, check the tachometer the same
way.
To re-lubricate the
shaft, you will have to remove the speedometer from the car. Using a
1/16 inch drill, drill a hole in the top of the die-cast zink housing
about where the threads end. This positions the hole about midway
between the bushings. Then use a hypodermic needle or some type of
pointy oiler to inject a small amount of 30 weight engine oil into the
housing through this hole. Keep injecting until the shaft spins
freely. When the shaft spins freely, you are done with the oiling. If
removing the speedometer from the car is too much for you, you can drill
the hole in the side of the housing in this location and pretty much
achieve the same results. There is not much room to work under the dash
with the speedometer installed.
Check the results by spinning the shaft with a variable speed electric
hand drill. Make sure that the pointer goes up and down smoothly as the
shaft speed is varied. The speedometer is calibrated to indicate 60mph
at 1001 rpm of the shaft speed. The tachometer indicates twice shaft
speed. This is because the cable turns at half engine speed.
If you really feel up to it, remove the speedometer mechanism from the
speedometer housing and oil or grease the odometer shafts and gears and
everything else that moves. Do not remove the die-cast housing
containing the shaft and spinning magnet from the speedometer assembly.
I have used this method to re-lubricate many speedometers and
tachometers, and it always works.
Larry Pearson
**********
Bruce,
On my '54 I'm having trouble finding a spare tire that will fit in the trunk
well and allow the wood cover to full close. Any suggestions? We
have 205/75R15 Coker white walls on the corvette and they are about inch and
half too fat.
Virgil
From:
Bruce Fuhrman,
SACC Secretary:
Hi Virgil,
Yes, your problem is real. I had bought (5) Coker bias-ply (Firestone)
when I first restored my '54 in 2000 to keep it all original. They were
terrible, egg shaped and would not balance.
I had to have them trued which took a lot of rubber off. They only lasted
about 15k miles so I replaced with (4) Diamond-Back radials with W/W
vulcanized on the outside. They are GREAT! Only problem is they are wider
and will not fit un-restricted in the spare. So, I used one of the old Coker
bias-ply as a spare and it just fits with no spare room. My suggestion is to
try and swap with Coker and have them send you a bias-ply 670x15 and use as
a spare. Or, you can live with the bulge in the trunk?
Cheers,
Bruce
**********
Hello:
My 1960 Corvette Grab Bar Bezels, are they Chrome Plated or
are they Stainless Steel?

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dennis
The bezels on the ends of the grab bar are chrome plated.
Chip Werstein
**********
I wonder if I could get some assistance? When I renewed my 2018 membership
(SACC # 3987) I had requested assistance and received a reply to send
it to, Dr. Jack Hallada. I am sending photos of an Ignition shield, that was
in the trunk of my 1960 Corvette, which I purchased in 1968. This shield as
you can see by the photo's is steel, chrome plated with sharp corners. I have
gone thru a lot of manuals and have not been able to match it up? The
correct shape was stamped, rounded corners and I believe made of Stainless
Steel.
One friend, a Retired GM Service manager, though that it may have been
an early proto type, he said he had seen, a lot of hand made items from GM
over the years, on the early corvettes. Then again? It could be a piece
someone made?
I've emailed copies to Paragon Corvette, No one can give me any
information either.
I am in final stages of putting the "Vette" back on the road, As a kid I
beat the heck out of it! But I saved all the old original parts. It will
never be a concourse car, but! "I love to drive it!" and it looks great!
Can anyone identify this Ignition Shield? What years (s). Does it
have any value?
Any assistance would be appreciated!
Clifford

From: Doug Prince,
SoCal Chapter Advisor: This shield appears to be from a 58-61
carbureted Corvette which mounted the ignition coil on the passenger side.
Fuel injected Corvettes mounted the coil on the driver’s side.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Cliff: If this isn't some sort
of a prototype, then someone went to a lot of trouble and expense to create
a top radio shield for the carbureted engines that could have been purchased
at any Chevrolet parts counter. I was able to buy this top shield from my
dealer well into the 70's. This top shield design was used on 1957 through
1962 radio equipped carbureted Corvettes. Fuel injection equipped Corvettes
had a much different looking top shield because of a different coil
location. I don't know what the 1956 top shield looked like, but it was
probably something like this unless it was some kind of carry-over from
1955. The original top shield for these years was made out of three
separate pieces of polished stainless steel that were spot welded together
to form the finished part. Your shield dates back to before 1968 when you
got it with your 1960 Corvette. It appears to be made up of at least five
separate pieces that were welded together and then chrome plated.
The original shields were
normally mounted to the engine with two chrome plated wing bolts in the back
and a chrome plated 1/4-20 hex head bolt on the top. The shield attaches to
spark plug wire support brackets in three different locations. The back
side had two slotted cutouts like the one shown in your photo. on the left
side of your shield. Some shields had a slot on one side and a round hole
on the other side. The one on my 1960 was done this way. The right side of
your shield has a big cutout that would not work with the wing nut, because
it is too large. Finally, there should be an oblong hole on the top surface
for the hex bolt to go. You have no hole there at all. So the way your
shield is configured it is beautiful, but it is not usable as a top radio
shield.
What is it worth? Unless you can
prove that GM made it as a prototype, I don't think that anyone would want
it. Reproductions of the real thing are readily available.
Larry Pearson
********
My name is Dennis DeVito. I am currently in the final
stages of my 1960 Corvette's Restoration Project.
My question is on the proper location of the Jacking
Instructions Decal and the Positraction Decal on the
Sparetire Coverboard.
I also have a Harrison Aluminum Top Tank Radiator, and
would like the Factory Correct location of the
Thermostat Decal's exact location on the which side of
the top of the Radiator.
Please respond.
Thank You
Dennis
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dennis: Original top tank aluminum radiators are
very rare, and I have never seen one with the
paper "CAUTION" sticker in place. On the 1961 and
1962 aluminum radiators that use the separate
aluminum expansion tank, the sticker is on the left
(driver's) side and the Harrison metal tag is on the
right side. The CAUTION sticker on your radiator
should go on the opposite side from the Harrison
tag, probably the left side. The location of this
sticker is not "exact", and there is no
location specification in the factory Assembly
Manual. As a point of interest, this same "CAUTION"
sticker was also used on the 1960 Chevy sedans, but
it was applied to the steel header in front of the
radiator, and not on the radiator.
The
red Positraction paper label goes on the left
(driver's) side of the plywood spare tire cover and
the black jacking instructions go on the right
side. They are glued in place with a yellow rubber
cement type adhesive (like 3M weatherstrip adhesive
in the spray can) that was sprayed on the wood (with
lots of overspray) and then the paper labels were
applied over the adhesive. Both labels are
approximately centered between the edge of the board
and the center metal cover hold down cup, and are
approximately in line with the metal hold down cup.
Nothing precise here.
**********
Hi Bruce,
I have a quick question for you. I am replacing the radiator hoses on
our 1954 Corvette. I'm looking to find out the correct hose clamps. Are
they spring clamps or tower clamps?
Also, what are your thoughts about converting to a 12 volt system?
Thanks,
Virgil
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
Hi again,
I researched your request for hose clamps at home and this is what I
found.
Two different clamps were used on early and late '54's. They are a flat metal
strap about a 1/2" wide. and it is bent outward about 90 degrees. A small
machine bolt fits through the holes to form the clamp. The second clamp is
still a 1/2" but it's center section has been stamped out of and
doubled around to form a center reinforcement. This type is shown on the
attached photo which was taken at Barrett/Jackson in Scottsdale this weekend
of an original '54 un-restored VIN # 1289 (early production). Disregard the
overflow tank small hose clamps which are Corbin spring clamps which were not
used until 1955.
Hope this helps.

Hi Virgil,
The conversion to 12 V is easy, I did it to mine about 20 years ago.
The 6v wire is larger so no problem there. Change the bulbs (all)
including the dash and doors., the clock if working to quartz, and the
starter and generator need to be rewound for 12V and keep the same
housings. The float in the gas tank needs to be changed, the voltage
regulator and most important add a resistor (porcelain) to the ign.
line to the points. Obviously the coil to 12V. The major expense is
the conversion of the radio to 12V. You will need to send to a radio
guy to replace all tubes, I paid $400. I did not replace the horns
since they were over $750 and when I use the horn, close your ears! I
found a 12V DELCO battery that was sealed and glued 3 yellow tops on
the top with the threads cut off.
Cheers,
Bruce Fuhrman
Cheers,
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
Looking for Diagrams/Schematics for the Trunk Latch “fiberglass piece” that
is Bonded to the trunk Floor, with the Latch…
Also other parts like the License plate Lamp/housing, and,, or course a
TRUNK LID….
Any info would be appreciated, AND, who may have some For Sale….
Thank you
From: Larry
Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Sam: It sounds like your
car got rear-ended. You should be able to buy everything you need from
Corvette Central. They have an online catalogue at
www.corvettecentral.com, or you can call them at
800.345.3342. I have a hard copy of their catalog from 2010, and all your
needs seem to be there, and I assume that they still are. Another good
source is Paragon Reproductions, Inc., 800.882.4688,
www.corvette-paragon.com. This is from their 2004
catalog.
Larry Pearson
**********
Looking for help identifying the block drains for cooling system flush
on my 1959 283. Pics attached. Which are the drain plugs - front or
back? Also, any tips on accessing the lower radiator hose which seems
to require removal of the fan cowling.
Thanks!
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Clark: The coolant drain
plugs are the 9/16 inch steel plugs located in the middle of both sides of the
engine block. You need to remove the plugs on both sides of the block and open
the lower radiator drain petcock to completely drain the engine block. I do
not know what the front plugs on your block are for, and do not recall ever
seeing these plugs on any of the small block Chevys that I own. I own the
following original engine Chevys: 1956 265ci, 1960 283ci, 1962 327ci, 1975
350 ci, and 1992 350 ci. Your block does not look like any 283 ci block that
I have ever seen. But if it works, enjoy. Neat looking oil pan! The
original oil pan on your Corvette was a high capacity steel 5 quart pan (6
quart oil change including the filter). Even on the base engines. The
passenger cars had 4 quart oil pans, with a 5 quart oil change.
As far as the lower radiator
hose, you have to remove the upper and lower fan shrouds to get at the front
lower hose clamp. There is an access hole in the right front side of the
lower fan shroud but I have never been able to properly access the front lower
hose clamp through that hole. You can't get to this clamp from under the car
because the frame cross member is in the way. Use a good quality
replacement lower hose and it will last you many years.
**********
Gentlemen:
Does anyone have detailed specifications/dimensions on ’61-’62 seats. I
finally pulled my ’61 from the upholstery shop where they had it for 4
months and it is still not completed. They refurbished my seat frames added
new foam and recovered them. Seats look great but they do not fit
properly. Obviously they are “over-stuffed” for proper seating position and
convertible frame clearance (when top is down). I am fighting with them on
fix but it would be great if I had detailed measurements and clearances.
Any help is much appreciated.
From:
Larry Pearson,, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Gary: There are no
"measurements" published anywhere. The seat assemblies were constructed and
upholstered in a separate facility and delivered to the assembly line ready to
install in the car. No photographs exist showing the upholstery workers
assembling the seats. Al Knoch Interiors has produced a video showing how to
install his seat covers over his seat foam and these videos cost about $100
each. Maybe you could start with this. Did you buy new seat foam from Al
Knoch to install over the refurbished seat frame? Back in 1961 Motor Trend
did a road test on the 1961 Corvette and it shows how the seats looked and
fit when the car was new. The original seat foam was molded out of latex foam
rubber which deteriorates when exposed to air over a period of time. Did your
upholstery shop add modern plastic foam rubber cut from a sheet over the
original latex foam making the seat too wide to fit in the car? The center
pleated insert originally had a distinct depression in it. Most upholstery
shops over-stuff this area making it appear convex rather than concave. But
it should still fit in the car. The seats should be narrow enough that the
seat can be moved back and forth the entire range of the seat track without
"jamming" against the center console. If it jams against the center console,
maybe you could remove the "hog rings" that attach the seat cover to the frame
in that area and remove the excess foam rubber and then reinstall the hog
rings (they can be re-shaped and re used).
You say that the seats "look great". That's a good start.
Larry Pearson
**********
I recently lost the motor in my 58 283 Fuelie (rod thru the oil pan)
after only 450 miles on a rebuild from a machine shop. I will be
replacing it with a GM 350 290hp long block using 462 camel hump
heads to raise the compression and to keep some what of an original
look. My question is since the new blocks do not have a road draft
tube can I get away with using a vented oil breather cap on the oil
fill tube to vent the engine? The Fuel Injection unit should work on
that motor with that cam but I would rather not have to put a pvc or
breather on the valve covers to keep a stock look. What affect will
this have on the motor? I do not want to put a used rebuilt motor in
the car again.
From: Doug Prince, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
Mike,
Your original engine block
had a provision for a road draft tube to draw clean air through the oil filler
cap although only hydraulic cam engines had this type of oil filler cap. Solid
lifter engines did not have an oil filler cap that would breath fresh air into
the crankcase. In order for your replacement engine to vent itself you would
need to add a PCV valve somewhere on one of the valve covers which would require
some modification along with an oil filler cap that would permit fresh air into
the engine. These oil filler breather caps are available from various after
market Corvette parts suppliers. In order to preserve the original look of your
valve covers would require extensive modifications of the replacement engine
block to provide a PCV valve that first appeared in 1961/1962 RPO 242 PCV valve
applications. After market engine blocks that do not have the road draft tube
provision are a crap shoot but can be made to work if you are willing to modify
and add a PCV valve to one of your original valve covers.
**********
I’M LOOKING FOR A REPLACEMENT 6” X 9”SPEAKER THAT WILL FIT
MY 62. THE PROBLEM I’M HAVING IS THAT THE 4 STUDS ON THE
DASH HOLD DOWN ARE NOT LONG ENOUGH TO ACCOMMODATE THE
AFTERMARKET SPEAKERS THAT ARE ABOUT ½” THICK AT THE MOUNTING
FLANGE AND THERE IS NOT ENOUGH LENGTH ON THE 4 STUDS TO GET
THE NUTS ON. I ASSUME THE OEM UNITS WERE CLOSE TO FLUSH THUS
PROVIDING ENOUGH LENGTH TO SECURE THE HOLD DOWN NUTS. I SEE
AFTERMARKET SMALL DUAL SPEAKERS MOUNTED TO A 6” X 9” PLATE
BUT I’M NOT SURE HOW THICK THAT PLATE IS OR IF IT WILL WORK
WITH MY STOCK HOLD DOWN STUD LENGTH. ANY HELP WOULD BE
APPRECIATED.
BILL

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal
Chapter Advisor:
Bill:
Chip Werstein offered some good suggestions, and I have
some additional thoughts.
Do you
have the original speaker? If so, use a razor blade and
trim the thickness of the cardboard seal to match the
thickness of the original speaker cone. The 1/2"
thickness that you report is way too thick. If you have
the original speaker and the cone is torn with no missing
pieces, it can usually be repaired using Elmer's white
glue and toilet paper. Yes, toilet paper. It works
great. If you want it to look black, use a black felt tip
pen to blacken it. Or as chip suggested, look for someone
to re-cone it. Whatever speaker you end up using, the
original transformer must be used or the radio output
transistor will immediately burn out if you connect the
radio output directly to the speaker voice coil. The
radio output transistor is directly connected the
transformer primary coil, which is part of its bias
circuit, and the four ohm resistance of the voice coil is
much too low.
I do not
recommend dual-cone speakers. That only complicates
things from an impedance standpoint and may destroy the
radio output transistor or cause the output to distort.
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bill,
I have installed many speakers in C-1 Corvettes and never experienced this
problem. I would check 3 things.
1. Are the 4 studs on your speaker grill oval broken or somehow too short?
2. Is there excess foam on the dash pad which prevents the oval from going
down as far as it should?
3. Did you slot ( or make oval) the stud holes for the speaker grill oval?
If you didn't, the vinyl on the pad will hold the oval up too high.
Perhaps you could take an original speaker and have it re-coned.
**********
Am rebuilding 1960 and cannot find the castle nut that holds pinion yoke
onto the pinion shaft. Tried buying a 7/8" fine thread nut at machine
shop, but the threads seemed too coarse. Anybody no what the nut size is
(thread count) and where I can get one?
Thanks,
Tom
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Tom: Corvette Central has
this nut under catalog number 582107 and comes with a new washer. It actually
is a locking nut and you are supposed to use a new nut and washer every time
you remove it. The nut is pinched to make it resistant to coming loose.
According to the ST-12 shop manual, page 4-10, the nut is to be torqued to
150-190 foot-pounds. I suggest that you use a large pipe wrench to hold the
"pinion yoke" from turning while torqueing the nut.. Originally they had a
special tool to hold it and this tool is shown on page 4-10. It would be
easiest if you tightened the nut with the differential installed in the rear
axle housing. The pipe wrench can then rest against the garage floor. I
suggest that you install a new pinion seal, because it can leak, and then you
can do the whole job over again.
Larry Pearson.
**********
Hello,
NCRS Member number 63986, not a member of SACC yet.
I have a 1962 Corvette Survivor, 327 CI engine, 250 HP, 4 speed transmission.
Car was running find up to a couple of days ago. Battery charged, fuel in
car, when you crank it, turns over, but nothing happens, will not start.
There is a brown wire loose under the dash, might be from the ignition switch,
however, I have a colostomy and am not able to look under the dash. Going to
get this bag off my side
November 3, 2017.
Everything is the same on car, most likely something simple but??????
Any suggestions or comments welcomed.
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Steve: The 18 gauge
brown wire loose under the dash is most likely the problem. This wire goes
from the lower part of the center connector on the ignition switch and
the other end goes to the ballast resistor under the hood. The brown wire
from the windshield wiper motor also connects to the same lug on the ballast
resistor. The brown wire at the ignition switch locks into the plastic
connector and is retained by a tab that is bent slightly up on the crimped-on
connector. This is one of three wires that go into this connector. Make sure
that the brown wire connector locks into the plastic connector, or this
problem might repeat itself.
Larry Pearson
**********
Hello,
I have a 1959 Corvette with a single Carter 4 barrel
WCFB on the 283. I have the passenger side exhaust
manifold casting # 3750556 that has the hole for the
inner choke tube, but no choke tube. The casting does
not have an exit hole bored through at the base
opposing to top hole. I am confused, I see there is a
lower choke tube that can be purchase, but if I press
it in and attache the upper tube to it, then the
Carter choke would be directly connected to the heat
and pressure of the exhaust gasses - this doesn't seem
correct to me. Am I missing something? Is the choke
tube that is pressed into the manifold open at the
other end in the exhaust allowing the pressurized gas
to flow to the choke body?
Any description or diagrams would help. I've searched
on the internet and read vague discussions, but I am
perplexed by this.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dane: All Chevrolet V-8 engines starting in
1955 with a carburetor had what is known as a heat
stove in the passenger exhaust manifold. The
purpose of the heat stove is to heat up the ambient
air being drawn into the automatic choke housing by
a manifold vacuum passage inside the carburetor.
This heated air causes a bi-metallic coil inside the
choke housing to heat up and twist open the
automatic choke valve inside the carburetor air horn
and, through linkage, turn a fast idle cam on the
base of the carburetor to slow the cold fast idle.
Starting in 1957 the heat stove consists of an
approximately 6-inch stainless steel hollow tube
that is pressed into this exhaust manifold through
holes bored in the top and bottom side of the
manifold at an angle and in perfect alignment. Your
exhaust manifold must have both of these holes.
They never made an exhaust manifold with just the
top hole, as you seem to be telling us. If your
manifold is defective, you will have to buy a
replacement manifold with a good tube in it. Or try
your luck in drilling the lower hole in alignment
with the upper hole. Or plug the holes and use an
after market electric choke housing. The solid axle
fuel injected engines had manifolds without the heat
stove. These manifolds without the heat stove are
very rare and valuable. The cast-in part numbers
are the same for both manifolds.
Sometimes the tube burns through and the tube must
be replaced. You don't want hot exhaust gasses
being drawn into the choke housing. Replacement
tubes are available through Corvette Central. Be
careful if you are drilling out the remains of a
burned out tube that you do not enlarge the holes in
the cast iron manifold or the replacement tube will
not stay in place. Use a pin punch to drive out the
old tube remains. The upper end of heat stove
connects to the carburetor choke housing with a
length of 1/4 brake line and a compression ferrule
and special brass hex nut. The lower end of the
stove tube is open to ambient air. In 1962 a
special lower tube assembly connected into the lower
end and came up and transitioned to a rubber hose
that pushed over a brass tube in the side of
the carburetor air horn, thereby causing filtered
air to enter the choke housing.
Larry Pearson
**********
hi, i have a 62 corvette and the tach only goes up to about 12 to 1500 rpms,
i have checked the cable connections and all seems fine. any thoughts
besides replacing the tach ?
i really do not want to pull out the cluster !! thanks in advance for any
thoughts charles
From:
Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The tachometer in your Corvette operates on a bunch of spinning
magnets that register RPM. Your tachometer is history and needs to be rebuilt
by a reputable rebuilder. On the West Coast many people rely on Valley Vettes,
Mike Poirer in San Diego, 619-461-1952.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I have some additional
thoughts on this. The solid axle tachometer operates just like the solid
axle speedometer, except that it indicates twice shaft speed. A spinning
magnet assembly driven off the tachometer (or speedometer) cable operates
inside an aluminum cup called the speed cup and causes the cup, which attaches
to a shaft that the pointer is on, to turn against a coil spring. The unit is
calibrated by charging or discharging the magnetism in the tips of the
spinning magnet assembly. The problem usually is with wear in the bushings
that support the spinning magnet assembly. Or the problem can be with the
speed cup shaft bushings. Or both. Because of this, you should contact a
local speedometer shop that can repair old mechanical speedometers to get it
rebuilt. Corvette Central offers a repair service for solid axle speedometers
and tachometers, and they can do the repair for you no matter where you live.
It is hard to find parts for these early units and a local shop might not be
able to repair your unit. If you have a local shop rebuild it,
be sure to tell them to
calibrate it to read twice shaft speed!
Larry Pearson
**********
Hi, Can you guys help me with some information on the correct speed nuts for a
set of 58 trunk spears? I have looked almost everywhere but I cant find anyone
that knows. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for you time,.............E McIntosh

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter advisor:
The 58 trunk spears are
retained by PAL nuts, not speed nuts. The PAL nut is a self tapping hex
headed sheet metal formed nut that cuts its own threads on the trunk
spear studs and they have "PAL" stamped on the flange area. They come in
various sizes depending on the size of the stud they are being threaded on. I
think that you need a 1/8th inch size. The inside cavity of these nuts were
filled with grey 3M Strip Caulk to prevent water leakage into the trunk.
Contact Corvette Central to see if they sell them. If not, contact me and I
will send you some at no charge.
Larry Pearson
**********
I AM A NEW MEMBER # 3993 AND HAVE A FEW TECHNICAL QUESTIONS MAYBE SOMEONE CAN
HELP ME WITH.
1)
MY FACTOR HUBCAPS SEAM TO BE TURNING ON THE RIMS AND STARTING TO PINCH
THE AIR STEMS. THE RIMS HAVE 4-BUMP-OUTS TO HOLD THE HUBCAPS BUT THEY STILL
TRY TO ROTATE FOR SOME REASON.
2)
I CURRENTLY HAVE AN OLD AM/FM-CASSETE PLAYER (WONDERBAR IN STORAGE)
BUT THIS RADIO IS SHOT. I AM LOOKING FOR A REPLACEMENT AND THERE SEEM TO BE
MANY OUT THERE. HOWEVER MOST ARE HIGH-TECH WITH ELECTRONIC PRESETS ETC. I
DISCONNECT MY BATTERY EVERY TIME AND DON’T WANT TO DEAL WITH FLASHING LIGHTS
AND HAVING TO RE-SET RADIO STATIONS ETC. DO YOU KNOW OF A UNIT THAT COULD WORK
FOR ME?
THANKS FOR YOUR TIME!
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advsor:
Bill,
Don't know what the problem could be with your
hubcaps..................unless they are reproductions and not originals.
I have heard that repros can fall off.
I have 2 reproduction am-fm stereo wonderbar with radios with inputs. They
work great and keep their settings when the battery is disconnected.
Contact Len Marino 626-358-1466 to purchase one.
**********
Hello,
I have, ready to install, in my (late off the line) 1954 Corvette,
a battery tray with 2 diagonal bars extending out.
The worn out battery tray in the car is the flat type.
How is it best installed?
Are both types of trays acceptable for a '54?
Also, have you found an aceptable tie-down
for an Optima Red Top battery?
Please advise.
Thank you,
Bob
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
Hi Bob,
To my knowledge there was only one type battery tray used in the '54.
The 2 diagonal bars straddle the frame and are attached with bolts to the
frame (see photo), I also included a top view.
I do not have any info on the Optima Red battery installation, but be
creative!
Cheers,


**********
Should my powerglide transmission
on my 1960 Corvette start in "both" neutral and park or in "either" neutral or
park. It presently will only start in park. Thanks, Wayne

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter:
The Performance Verification for C1s says the car starts in both park and
neutral.
**********
I have a 1962. My question is about the tach gauge. There is a low RPM and a
High RPM gauge. Are these tach gauges related to the HP? What determines if a
low or high is correct for my car?
Best regards / Mit freundlichen Grüssen / un saludo /
诚挚问候
Ron
From
Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
RPM red line is directly related to engine horsepower. The
250 and 300 horsepower cars are equipped with a hydraulic camshafts and use the
low RPM red line tachometer. The 340 and 360 horsepower engines had solid
lifter camshafts and came with the high RPM red line tachometer.
**********
I recently saw a C1 vette with cove moldings and inserts like a 61 but the
driver told me it was a 62 vette. Was the trim an option or could it have been
added to the 62 by the owner? Thanks
From:
Brad Bean, SACC Vice President: Stainless cove separation trim was
not available, from the factory on a 62 Corvette. Of course, once it left the
factory, the owner could have done what they wanted...
From:
Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Only added to the car by an
owner as GM did very few COPO cars in the day as only the very high ups in the
corporate ladder could get a one off special Corvette from St. Louis. Maybe the
owner was clueless as to what year he had!
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jeff: The 1962 had a raised
bead instead of stainless steel moldings like 1956-1961 Corvettes had. It
would be very hard to mount the 1961 moldings over this raised bead and have
the result look good. The raised bead cannot be ground smooth without
the certainty of going completely through the fiberglass in the areas of the
raised bead. If this car really was a 1962, I suspect that the front
fiberglass and door fiberglass was replaced with 1961 panels.
Larry Pearson
**********
Trying to install antenna cable that runs inside the rocker , what the best
way to get the cable from the trunk to the dash? Thanks
From:
Bruce Fuhrman. SACC Secretary: The method of
placing the cable is not available in any books I have, however is easy to place
under the carpet and behind the seat.
Bruce Fuhrman
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Lucio: There is a 1953-1955
Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) that is available through NCRS or
the major Corvette parts suppliers, and you should obtain a copy if you have
one of these cars. This publication was prepared by Chevrolet engineering to
instruct the assembly line in how to build the car. This publication is all
drawn by freehand, and there are no page numbers, but I think that you will
find it to be very helpful. The antenna lead was run through the rocker panel
on the passenger side, along with the main wiring harness. Apparently when
the body was being constructed a pull wire was included to assist in the
installation of the main wiring harness and the radio antenna cable. Running
the cable under the carpet would be the easiest approach, but this is not how
the factory did it, as you will see when you get your AIM.
Larry Pearson
**********
My question is I would like to know detail specifications on the 1958
convertible top weather stripping,fastening for it,screw type and size of all
retainers,and procedures for adjusting the top to the body and the windshield
Thanks
From: Larry
Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
For help understanding the
1958 Corvette Convertible top mechanism and installation, you need to refer to
the official Chevrolet Shop Manual for all C1 Corvettes, Corvette Servicing
Guide, Publication ST-12. This publication can be obtained from most of the
Corvette Parts Suppliers, and is a “must have” for C1 owners. The information
you need is found in Section 1, BODY, pages 1-31 through 1-34. It is not
complete, and I do not know any source to go to for all the small details.
These tops are not easy to install and I suggest that you go to an experienced
upholstery shop to have the work done. It is virtually impossible using words
to explain how to install one of these tops. Al Knoch sells videos that teach
you how to install these tops. He also offers a top installation service at
Meets he attends. Corvette Central sells all the weatherstripping and hardware
you will need, and their catalog illustrations will help you figure out what you
need and where it goes.
The original weather
stripping used on the 1956 through 1958 Corvettes was cloth covered with molded
in mounting studs and steel reinforcements, and has been discontinued since
1959. You have to use the 1959 through 1962 style weather stripping and
attaching hardware illustrated in figure 79 on page 1-74. Each of the six
rubber weather strips on the side frames are attached using black-painted steel
retainer strips and #8-32 round-head Phillips screws and special weld nuts as
shown in figure 79. There is also a header weather stripping that installs with
its own metal retainer and special screws and the rear deck bow weather strip,
which is not illustrated. The header and rear deck bow weatherstrips don’t get
installed until after the top fabric is installed to them. The rear deck bow
weather strip attaches with screws and staples. There are also two (left and
right) short weatherstrips that bridge the gap between the top frame and the
rear deck bow. These attach with screws and 3M weatherstrip adhesive, and are
installed after the top fabric is in place.
Before attempting to
install the top frame, every part of it must be painted and properly shaped (not
bent). The frame parts are painted semigloss black and the header is gloss
black. There are tacking strips (also called trim sticks) in the header, rear
window bow and deck lid bow which must be in serviceable condition before the
top fabric can be installed. Tacking strips are petroleum impregnated (to make
them waterproof) heavy cardboard strips that accept staples or tacks to hold the
top fabric to these bows. They usually need replacing or repair. All pivot
points must be lubricated with grease or 30w oil so they move freely.
To install the top frame to
the car body, first install the side weatherstrips to the top frame using the
metal retainers and special weld nuts on the inside, as shown in Figure 79.
Install the top frame to the car body a using the hardware shown in Figure 71
and adjust the frame up and down and back and forth until it fits the side
windows perfectly when the windows are all the way up. The side frames attach
to the front header using slotted holes to assist in making the adjustments.
The door window stops must be properly adjusted so that the side windows go up
the proper amount. Not too high or too low. If you have a hard top, use that
to adjust the window stops so that the side windows go up the proper amount.
The linkage that goes up to the center pivot point on the side frames us used to
raise the pivot point so it follows the shape of the side window frames. That
is all it does. Do not proceed with the top fabric installation until the top
frame fits the side windows as perfectly as possible. Things will only get
worse once the top fabric is installed.
I hope this information
gets you moving in the right direction. Get the Al Knoch video if you want to
attempt to do the top installation yourself.
Larry Pearson
**********
1960 vette, rear leaf spring. I am
replacing both. the front shackle, is that large bolt pressed in, it's threaded
on one end only. how do you get that out of the schackle, hammer??
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advsor:
Charlie,
The head of the shackle bolt is serrated so it won't spin in the bracket when
you tighten the nut. In many cases it is rusted into the bracket. You probably
can remove it with heat but the bracket and bolt my not be reusable. Worst
case scenario.....use a cutting torch to cut the bolt out of the bracket. Both
parts are available new from Paragon or Corvette Central. Note, I suspect it
goes without saying that the spring assemble with front bracket attached must
be removed from the chassis in order to drive the bolt out.
Chip Werstein
**********
Hello SACC Tech
Im not a member,thought I would still ask.
I have a new press molded jig built front end for 62 corvette,I asked the
Corvette Image this a.m they do not drill because not everyone wants them.
The holes for top fender S.S were not drilled,which has not been to hard to
do. But the hard part ! has been the CORVETTE script and emblem above.
Is there a Reliable template out there ? This is difficult to do
straight at correct location. Help, car is in paint shop now.
Thanks
walt
From
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Walt,
This is a common problem when replacing original body panels.
Make your own template using stiff paper to locate the holes on your original
panels, then transfer to the new panel.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
I have a 1958 fuel injected 250 HP corvette, that has been rebuilt from the
ground up. We are having difficulty with the full injection unit. It has been
rebuilt by known specialists (!) , It stars cold easily but when it warm up it
stalls and won’t start.? Where do we start?? Thanks Ken B in Vancouver
From:
Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor: Well join the crowd with FI
cars that won't/don't run in the heat. The problem is todays 10% gasohol
gasoline which boils and then percolates at 40 degrees less than pre gasohol
fuel did. The copper spider lines of FI cars are excellent of transferring
engine heat and causing the fuel to percolate. If under hood engine
temperatures reach or exceed 180 degrees you will consistently have this problem
and there are no known easy cures. Not sure if Canada has gasohol but I am sure
it does as this problem is rampant in the Southwestern United States. Racing
fuel is an option but is crazy expensive and in California is illegal to use on
surface streets and highways. I tell my customers to just "park it" if the
ambient outside temperature exceeds 90 degrees as there is no solution to this
problem.
**********
Hi, I need to know the tan paint color/code for the top bows on my 55
Vette.
I,m closing in on finishing the restoration this is one of the few
item left to do.
Thanks.
Larry
From:
Bruce Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
There are no codes available in any of my books for the '53-'55 metal bows for
the top. I was able to match the color perfectly by selecting several
Beige spray cans from my local hardware store and checking
the lids to the existing bow.
Good luck.
**********
Hello, , Just rebuilt the steering box on my '62 C1. . That was easy
enough with the Joe Calcagno instructions. .
. . Question is, The spring in the drag link suggests it should be
tighter than just zero clearance. . What is the correct "tightness" ? ?
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advsor:
Consult you ST 12 Corvette shop
manual......page 9-3.
"Tighten plugs snugly to remove all end play of ball. Back off plugs 1/4 to
1/2 turn plus amount necessary to insert cotter pin."
Chip Werstein
**********
1962, is the license plate bracket, bumper reinforcement, painted black or
body color? Thanks for your help.. Rear bumper
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Semi gloss black
Chip Werstein
**********
Hi:
I have one
more question that you probably know the answer to. If I have the ignition
on, without the engine running, the ballast resistor gets extremely hot. Hot
enough to melt the insulation on the wires attached to it. Is this normal? I
know that without the points opening and closing, the current through it is
constant but should it get that hot? No caution to not have the ignition on
without the engine running in the owner's manual.
Thanks,
Chuck

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Chuck: If you leave the
ignition on with the engine not running and the points in the distributor
happen to be closed, and you leave the ignition on for some period of tine,
both the ballast resistor and the coil will get very hot, and you will
discharge the battery. This could be damaging to both of them, and you should
avoid doing this. I have not heard of the resistor getting so hot that the
insulation melts on the connecting wires. If you are running some kind of
test and you want to leave the ignition on, "bump" the starter until the
points are open, as evidenced by a low ammeter discharge reading.
If you are using an
original "091" coil (these numbers are embossed on the side of the coil), you
are supposed to use a ballast resistor of 0.5 ohms (marked with a black dot on
the metal bracket). If you are using a service replacement "202" coil, you
should be using a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor (marked with a blue stripe). If
you are using an after market coil, I would play it safe and use a 1.5 ohm
resistor, which should not cause so much heating.
**********
I
can't figure out how the clips go for the chrome on the glove box, 1956
Corvette.
-William

From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor:
The
aluminum trim clips (Part # 14818) for the Glove Box Door are round on two
opposite corners and square on the other two corners
with an interference threaded hole in the middle. It takes four clips. You
insert two clips inside the back channel
of each door stainless trim pieces with the narrow sides parallel to the
edges. Then rotate the clip 90 degrees clockwise
until it is seated under the lip edges of the trim piece. (The top of the trim
strip must be held toward the upward
position and the clip must be rotated clockwise to keep from unseating the
clip when the attaching screw is tightened)
The clips should be located to line up with the holes
in the glove box door. Then attach using a #10-24 screw with a washer head
The 2 Short trim pieces below glove box door are put on by attaching NSS
Clips to
the outside of each side of the
glove box compartment (separator) (with
the friction clip toward the sides) using the 10-24 hinge-mounting bolts
with counter-sunk head. Then put washer & nut on inside of glove box. The
bottom stainless trim pieces can then be slid
onto the clips since they have an open bottom end
The 2 top stainless trim pieces must be snapped onto 2 NSS clips on each side
that are mounted directly to the fiberglass with sheet metal type screws (with
the friction clip toward the sides), These pieces are closed on both ends
making it necessary for you to
snap them onto the clips.
Bill Preston
**********
need
some help locating choke connector rods for my 54. 115-221 is part number in old
tech manuals. also my wiper motor is original and needs rebuilt, is there a kit
to do this, or someone who rebuilds.
Thanks very much,
Mike
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
Hi Mike,
I assume you are referring to the rod that connects the mechanical movement
from the cable to the choke plate at the bottom of the carburetor. These may
be difficult to find. Check
www.vettegal.com
she has a lot of carburetor parts and just have some laying around.
Good luck.
Bruce Fuhrman

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Mike,
Your wiper motor can be restored by Valley Vettes in San Diego.......Mike
Poirier. He does instruments too. I have used him for many years.
619-461-1952.
**********
I need more help?
Again I have Two 1962 Corvette .
One has steering column About 47 inches long.
The other column 45 inches long.
Can you please tell me witch one is correct?
THANK YOU
Sthua
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Sthua,
I just measured a 1957 steering column I have out of the car. Measuring the
mast jacket from the steering box is 49". The shaft extends approx 21/2 " past
the end of the mast jacket. I don't know the actual length of a 58 to 62
column, but I know for certain it is shorter, probably by about 3".
Chip Werstein

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Sthua,
You have two 1962 Corvettes with different length steering columns.
The original one should have the VIN plate resistance welded to the top
surface of the tube just forward of the cowl, under the hood. The VIN #
should also match your vehicle title Vin Number.
I'm guessing that the longer one is in the car with the shifted transmission
and the distorted front motor support bracket.
Wrecked cars can get strange parts.
Your 1962 assembly manual should show the correct GM steering gear asm P/N.
Regards,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
**********
What is the best way to adjust the steering box on a 1959 corvette it has to
much play in steering wheel thanks for any help
New member Richard
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Richard,
The steering gear adjustment is a slotted screw & jam nut on the left side of
the gearbox.
Loosen the jam nut and turn the adjustment screw in or out till you achieve
minimum free play then retighten the jam nut.
In order to make adjustment easier on my C-1s, I drilled a 1/2 inch hole in
the left side inner fender in line with the adjustment screw.
However, a 58 year old steering gear set may well have extremely worn/flatted/brinnelled
gears and may require rebuild.
In addition, there are several other components that affect steering freeplay
which need to be checked.
Loose wheel bearings, loose/worn kingpins, worn/loose drag link, loose third
arm bearing asm & loose tie-rod ends all contribute to freeplay in the
steering wheel.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
**********
Will a 61 speedometer fit a 58
Corvette
From: Chip
Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The 61 speedo will bolt right in to
the 58 but I think numbers on the face and the pointer are slightly different.
Chip Werstein
**********
I have a 62 Corvette, 300 HP with a Carter AFB. My question is about a
sticking choke. The choke opens fine as the car heats up. The problem is
that the choke sticks open. After the engine is cold and I tap the
accelerator, the choke won't slam shut. I always have to take the top off the
air cleaner and push the butterfly closed while I hold open the accelerator.
I've checked everything and it seems to be that the metal piston inside the
choke housing binds in the cylinder. I've tried everything from silicone
spray to emery paper but nothing seems to fix it. I could buy a new choke but
I'd rather fix it and save money.
Thanks,
Chuck
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
I
am experiencing a similar problem on my 62 340 hp car. All parts and linkage
operate freely, but when cold the choke wont close and as a result the fast idle
won't set either. Purely by accident, I left the three screws which hold the
choke cover to the housing somewhat loose and the choke began to work
perfectly. I am now trying to find the right "tightness" for those screws. I may
attempt to put a 2nd gasket between the choke cover and housing. My problem
isn't solved yet, but I think I'm getting close.
**********
I have mufflers and exhaust pipes bought in
early 70’s for my “60” and never used. The pipes have the tags and the
mufflers are still in the boxes. I’m going to put them up for sale but would
like to verify the numbers. I have searched on line and can’t find any listing
for parts this old.
Is there someone I can contact or do you have
this information.
Part Numbers are: 3752558
3752555
3735167
3735164
3815511
3815512 Thanks, Charlie B.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Charlie: The exhaust system
you have was for the base engines (230hp & 245hp) and uses the oval muffler.
Each side of your dual exhaust system was serviced with five separate parts,
listed from the engine to the rear bumper outlets: exhaust pipe, extension
pipe (adapts muffler to the exhaust pipe, about 2' long), oval muffler, tail
pipe, and tail pipe extension (about 19" long and adapts the tail pipe to the
bumper opening). Originally the mufflers were manufactured with the extension
pipe made as part of the muffler, but the mufflers were serviced without this
extension, so a separate part was needed to connect the exhaust pipe to the
muffler. Here is how the part numbers apply:
Exhaust pipe: 3735167 (L.H.),
3735164 (R.H.); Extension pipes: 3815513 (L.H.), 385514 (R.H.); Mufflers:
3815511 (L.H.), 3815512 (R.H.); Tail pipe: 3752555 (L.H.), 3752556 (R.H.);
Tail pipe extension: 3762440 (L.H. & R.H.). The tail pipes and tail pipe
extensions were the same for all engines. Also, if you are using the oval
mufflers with the solid lifter engines, the extension pipes and the oval
mufflers would work on those applications. The exhaust pipes for the solid
lifter engines had a crossover pipe arrangement, but otherwise were the
same shape and diameter as the base engine application.
I can find no reference to
your 3752558 part. Maybe it is 3752556. To complete the exhaust system you
have, you are missing the extension pipes and the tail pipe extension pipes.
The mufflers, without the extensions, were probably also used on the passenger
cars.
Larry Pearson
Charlie: Some additional
information since you are planning to sell these parts. I have a 1972
Chevrolet Corvette parts book, and it gives other applications for your
exhaust parts. The mufflers are listed as the low noise service parts for
all 1955 (V-8) through 1962 Corvettes. This would apply to the high
performance engines also. The exhaust pipes are listed for all 1957-1962
base engine Corvettes. The tail pipes are listed for 1957 (without the
extensions) through 1960 Corvettes (the 1958-1960 Corvettes would need the
extensions, which you don't have).
Larry Pearson
**********
There are two pieces of ss trim on the side of the car, one right behind the
gull wing and one on the door . are they side specific? If so how can I tell
rt from left?
Gil
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
Hi Gil,
They are not side specific. The tapered edge on each strip belongs at the
hinge door opening. This provides clearance when opening the door. If you do
not put the tapered edge here, the door will not open without bending the s/s
strips.
Cheers,
**********
Hi
I have a 1962 Corvette just bought.
I found after I started Driving it, Bad Vibration in drive train.
I put it on a lift and found that some body shimmed the shifter to fit
through floor hole.
They also Shimmed one side of trans Mount , Transmission tail touching X
Frame.
Bought new trans Mount , Installed Mount & took 15 washer out so
shifter bolted up were it should .
Transmission Mount would not bolt in right, so I look into motor
mounting found by shimming up right side 3/4 inch
transmission moved into alignment . So I pulled Rad , Fan , Hoses out of
the way found Engine Tower Motor Mounts
Look uneven R/S tower angled down and lower than L/S tower.
Looks like engine needs to come Forward 1/2 Inch.
Can you help me ? I need the Spec for front frame rails and Engine
Tower Motor Mount?
Any help would be Appreciated
THANK YOU
Sthua
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Stash,
Unfortunately, you might be one of those Corvette lovers who bought somebodys
cobbled together wreck.
If you scroll thru the technical help page, you will find my answer to Anthony
regarding the location of the motor mount bracket location on his '59 frame
rails. The same procedure is applicable to your '62.
(Anthony's question and answer) follows:
We have a 59 frame that the "L" brackets (both top and bottom) that mount the
engine supports bolt to, have been destroyed and we would like to find the
exact location for placement of the new "L" bracket. We have been unable to
this point to find reference material with specifications & measurements. Can
someone help with some direction to acquire these specifications or patterns
that will position the brackets properly.
Eye balling of the location from another built frame has proven difficult in
being precise.
Thank you
Anthony
-----------------------------------
From: Bill Huffman, Michigan
Chapter President:
Tony,
I had the same problem in restoring a 1960 that had been "modified" into a
straight front axle dragster.
I also had no luck in finding correct dimensions for locating the "L"
brackets.
Since the transmission crossmember & trans support were intact, and the
transmission / bell housing / engine block / front motor mount support
bracket are one structural member, my solution was to literally bolt the
components up to the frame.
I used a floor jack to raise the front of the block, with the transmission
support acting as a fulcrum.
With the all the front motor mount components finger tight, the "L" brackets
will pretty much locate themselves..Since my frame was sand blasted, I found
grind marks where the previous brackets were ground off confirming the
location.
Make sure the your components are centered in the frame and the vertical
brackets are perpendicular to the frame horns before clamping the "L"
brackets for welding.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Hi, I would like info on becoming a member. Question: 1962 .
Is there a compression connection in the manifold?
Also, I have a small exhaust leak.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Don: The tube from the
carburetor to the exhaust manifold has a compression fitting under the nut
that threads into the automatic choke cover. The other end simply pushes into
what is called the "choke stove", which is a steel tube pressed into the
exhaust manifold at an angle and is exposed to the hot exhaust gasses which
heats up the air being sucked into the automatic choke assembly via manifold
vacuum present under the choke cover. After years of use, this choke stove
tube can burn through, causing an exhaust leak into the automatic choke
assembly. Service replacement choke stove tubes should be available from
Corvette Central. To install the new tube, you must carefully drill out the
old tube, being careful not to enlarge the holes in the cast iron exhaust
manifold.
Prior to 1962, the lower end
of the choke stove tube was open to the ambient air, and whatever dust and
dirt that might be present in that air. Starting in 1962, a lower tube
assembly having a bracket on it that attaches to a special exhaust manifold
bolt with a short threaded stud formed on the top of it was introduced. This
tube pushes into the lower end of the choke stove tube and goes up to the
vicinity of the rocker arm cover where it ends. A rubber hose pushes on to it
and goes to a short tube located on the side of the carbureter air horn, where
it gets filtered air from the air filter. This choke stove tube is not
present on 1962 (only) fuel injected engines. The 1962 Corvette fuel
injection unit is the first one that has a choke valve on the air meter, and
this automatic choke is heated with a one-year only electrically heated cover
assembly. Starting in 1963, the fuel injection automatic choke assemblies
were again heated via a choke stove in the exhaust manifold. The 1962 right
hand side 2 1/2 inch exhaust manifolds not having the choke stove tube are
extremely rare and valuable.
Larry Pearson
**********
I purchased a 15" Corvette Central steering wheel hub with bell and rivets.
The holes in the steering wheel are smaller than the holes in the hub. And
the hub will not go onto the splines on the steering post. Has anyone else had
this problem with the aftermarket parts? If so, how was the problem
remedied?
Thank you,
Larry
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Larry,
Your first call should be to Corvette Central for technical help with this.
Original wheels are riveted to the hub whereas aftermarket steering wheels,
both 15" & 17", are are bolted together with special screws & nuts that
externally appear similar to originals. All hubs are "keyed" so there is only
one orientation that fits the shaft spline.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Any way to get the side mirror GLASS out of the housing? Flopping around.
Guessing there is some kind of mech. device in there that needs something done
to. Would love to put a Convex in place but so far no luck finding one that's
the 4,1/4 dia.
Barry
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Barry: There is nothing
behind the mirror glass to make it tight. The factory placed the mirror disc
in the housing and then a machine rolled the lip of the housing tight against
it. The only way to get the glass out is to break it. You can tighten it up
by taking a suction cup and pull the mirror disc to one side and then work
clear RTV Silicone sealant into the gap on the other side. When the RTV
cures, the mirror disc will stop rattling. You can replace the original disc
with a convex mirror if you can find a round convex mirror that is larger than
the diameter of the housing and having it cut down by a glass shop to fit in
the housing. Use clear RTV Silicone sealant around the back side of
the perimeter of the mirror disc, push it into the housing, and it will be
secure when the RTV cures. I successfully did this with the original outside
mirror for my 1951 Oldsmobile when the glass broke all on its own. The "fix"
has been in place for over 30 years now.
For your information, the
original glass in your outside mirror is called "Black Glass". On the
original factory mirrors the black surface is on the outside
surface of the mirror disc and it is easily scratched, and the scratches
cannot be removed without damaging the remainder of the black surface. On
some service replacement mirrors, the black surface is on the back side of the
glass. NCRS judges look for this discrepancy. There is a way to check it, if
you are interested.
**********
I have a 62 vette with brake shoes. The front end was completely rebuilt 4
years ago which included brakes and bearings as well.
Yesterday I applied the brakes at a speed of about 40 mph
and suddenly the steering wheel began to shimmy. The shimmy was very noticeable.
Never occurred before. Drove home and parked it. I feel it is unsafe to drive.
Can you give me some advice on this unusual behavior what most likely where to
begin looking.
Many thanks
Darrell
From:
Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor: The brake shoes and or drums have
become glazed or contaminated by oil or grease and erratic braking is causing
the steering wheel to "shimmy". Fixing this problem is not rocket science as
you must examine the brake shoes and drums for these problems. Sometimes just
cleaning and sanding will be enough to correct the problem but complete
replacement may be the only solution.
**********
I have a '61 Corvette. The nuts inside the door that holds
the striker plate has rusted and while trying to get them out
they broke off. How can i get in there and place a new
striker plate nut componenet so I can put the striker plate on
to shut my door? Any help is appreciated.
Harold

From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Harold,
As for as I know, there is only one way to access the
striker nut plate which is located inside the door jam (
you can barely see it after removing the gas tank cover,
but it is not accessable). After removing the rear
tires, determine the aprox location of the nut plate in
relation to the fender well. Then cut an aprox 5" square
hole ( could be round I guess) as neatly as possible in
the fender well. At that point you'll be able to access
the plate. Once replaced you can glass up the hole using
the piece you cut out. Perfect glass work is not
necessary since that area of the fender well is
undercoated. Once the glass work is complete, re
undercoat the area. I have done this several times and
it not as difficult as it may sound.
Chip Werstein
**********
I have a 1960 with a 4 speed Muncie. While pulling the engine for a clean up
and rebuild I decided to pull the tranny out and clean it up as well. While
doing so I noticed that the cross member that the tranny mount is mounted on
is spaced down from the x frame members by about 10 3/8 washers. The cross
member bolts up to the x frame and does have room to be spaced down but just
doesn't seem like something that would be done factory. Before I put it back
together I wanted to reach out and see if others are that way as well.
Thanks
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Dusty: In the first place, the
Muncie transmission did not exist in 1960. I think it was introduced in late
1963 and was used in all the 1964's and later Mid Year Corvettes and sedans.
The 1960 Corvettes with 4-speeds came with iron cased T-10 transmissions with
aluminum tail shafts. How a Muncie transmission installs in a 1960 Corvette
is unknown to me, or Chevrolet for that matter. In 1962, the T-10 became all
aluminum and the rear mount was moved forward, requiring a trapezoid shaped
adaptor plate to make it work with the existing cross member and in place of
the former mounting bracket. They also used two 1/8 inch thick spacer bars
(shims) (one on each side) to slightly lower the rear cross member. Chevrolet
never used washers to space the cross member down. I suggest that you stack
these spacer bars to lower the cross member as needed to make your Muncie
work. Corvette Central sells reproductions of the spacer bars (shims).
According to Corvette Central's catalog, the trapezoidal adaptor plate works
to mount a Muncie in C1 Corvettes, and maybe you have it.
Larry Pearson
From:
Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Larry is completely correct about the
history of the factory transmission mounts prior to 1962. The adaptor and
spacers that he mentions will correctly adapt a Muncie transmission to a C1
Corvette as many others in the hobby have done this conversion. When done you
would think that Duntov and GM thought about of this conversion as it is so
simple to do if you know what goes where. I did it 25 years ago on my 1961.
**********
Hello: I recently acquired a 1962 Corvette and am in process of restoration. I
have been told by the previous owner that the 62 body is mounted on a 1958
frame. However, in replacing the rear axle bearings (outer) I discovered 3
unknown conditions.
1. The axle bearings have a single groove around the perimeter for a single o
ring ?
2. There is no rear axle seal (garlock type) pressed inside the axle housing?
3. There is a small amount of play (slop) when pushing IN and pulling OUT on
the axle shaft when installed and the 4 retainer bolts/plate is torqued in the
housing?
Question? How can I determine the YEAR of manufacter of my housing?
I suspect that someone has installed 1957 (or earlier) axles and bearings in a
1958 axle housing assembly? Is this possible? I understand that the 1957
bearings are more narrow than those used in 1958.
My differential is a NON-POSI
Any help/input would be appreciated.
How do I join your SACC organization?
Thanks in advance
William
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
William,
1. Your axle bearings with one grove are non posi bearings.
2. the o ring is the axle seal. I always put some sealer in the housing
where the bearing seats against the housing just for insurance. The o ring
is sometimes not a totally effective seal.
3. I believe that axles are designed to have a small amount of play.
I have also read that the 56-7 axles and bearings were different from other
years and that posi axles are different lenghts than non posi, but I have
never paid any attention to that. I have changed rear ends in many Corvettes
and early Chevys and never had a problem. If you're worried about it, I
would suggest more research.
I believe 56 to 58 axle housings are all the same. 59-62 had the welded
brackets for traction bars. All 56 thru 61 have a drain plug. 62's do not.
Chip Werstein
**********
1962 corvette, is the cowl vent
screen painted body color, or black?
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Cowl vent screen is painted body color.
I realize that the top of the vent is painted body color, but the underside of
my vent appears to have been painted a flat black. Including the screen. I see
no trace of body color in this area. What is correct, all body color, or black
and body color? Thanks, Dale Mullins

From: Brad Bean, Solid Axle Corvette Club Vice President: During an
earlier repaint, someone may have painted the screen and underside black, so it
would "disappear" when open. Or... bug hits chipped away at the original screen
paint and it was easier/cheeper to take a spray can and paint it black. However,
the correct/original color would have been the same as the car's exterior.
**********
Hi there . My name is Michael . I'm in Australia . I have a c1 corvette . I
Ve completed a frame off restoration on my 61 corvette . I'm stumped with
completing replacement soft top . Try to download Al knocks video on replacing
the canvas roof twice . Already spent 80 US dollars and don't have DVDs , I
would be eternally grateful if someone could help with tech drawings or
knowledge . Thank you
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Michael: Whoever you bought
the top from should have paper instructions with the top telling you how to
install the top fabric. If you have never installed a convertible top before
I suggest that you pay an upholstery shop to do it. If you want to do it
yourself, it would be very helpful if the old top was still on the frame so
you can see how it was installed. Or if you have access to another 61 or 62
Corvette so you can see how the top is installed. The 61 and 62 Corvette top
frames are different from the earlier frames. The rear bow that latches to
the rear deck lid is made of aluminum and the top attaches to it with the
rubber weatherstripping and a plastic bead that is forced inside the
weatherstripping to retain the top fabric to the rear bow. It is virtually
impossible to tell you in words how to install the top fabric on the top
frame. Here are the basic steps you must take to install the top without a
lot of detail:
1. Install the six side
weatherstrips to the top frame using the metal retainers and special weld nuts
on the inside.
2. Install the top frame to
the car body and adjust the frame up and down and back and forth until it fits
the side windows perfectly when the windows are all the way up. The side
frames attach to the front header using slotted holes to assist in making the
adjustments. The window stops must be properly adjusted so that the side
windows go up the proper amount. Not too high or too low. If you have a hard
top, use that to adjust the window stops so that the side windows go up
the proper amount. The linkage that goes up to the center pivot point on the
side frames is used to raise the pivot point so it follows the shape of the
side window frames. That is all it does. Do not proceed until the top frame
fits the side windows as perfectly as possible. Things will only get worse
once the top is installed.
3. Install the top pads to
the bows. The top pads position the bows using flat head screws that secure
the pads to the three front bows. Measure a properly installed top to
determine the spacing of the bows. The bow above the rear window has a
tacking strip and the pad is nailed or stapled to this. Don't attach it until
step 6. The pads attach to the front header with nails or staples into tacking
strips. Don't attach until step 7.
4. Remove the rear bow from
the top frame and install the top to it using the rear deck weatherstrip and a
plastic bead that is forced inside the weatherstrip to retain the top fabric
to the rear bow. Make sure it is accurately centered. Install the two fabric
straps that go on each side of the rear window to the rear bow using the metal
clamps. These clamps go on the inside of the car, not on the outside under
the top fabric. These straps protect the rear window from excess stress that
could tear it.
5. Reinstall the rear bow to
the top frame and clamp it to the deck lid using the two chrome clamps. You
may find it necessary to unlatch the rear bow during the stapling process to
make everything tight. Now you have the top fabric attached to the rear bow
and things get very difficult from this point if you want to avoid wrinkles.
You may have to re-do the job several times to get everything straight and
tight and wrinkle free. Don't cut the top fabric and pads to size until
everything is right. The top must end up being very tight on the frame or it
will "balloon" at speed.
6. The rear window fabric
overlaps the top fabric at the rear window bow, which has a tacking strip for
attaching the top. The order of attachment is: the rear window straps, then
the pads, then the rear window fabric, then the top fabric, and last the
"wire-on" binder (step 10).
7. Nail or staple the pads to
the front header.
8. Roll the top fabric over
the front header and nail it and the small side tabs to the tacking strips
under the header. After everything is right, screw the front header
weatherstrip to the front header using the metal retainer and the oval head
screws.
9. Attach the side flaps to
the top frame verticals using 3M weatherstrip adhesive. The vertical
weatherstrips have to be removed to do this. Install the small corner
weatherstrips that bridge the gap between the top frame and the rear bow
weatherstrip before reinstalling the vertical weatherstrips.
10. Using a silicone sealer,
attach the "wire-on" binder on to the rear window tacking strip using tacks or
staples. It is important that this area be sealed against water leakage to
avoid water wicking onto the cloth backing on the top material, causing water
stains inside the car. Install the chrome ends to the "wire-on" binder after
trimming them to the proper length. Go inside the car and use a pin to locate
the existing mounting holes.
**********
Greetings All - I'm a new owner of a 1962 Corvette which has the
original Wonderbar radio that does not work. I think this is not an
unusual situation, so I hope others may give me the benefit of their
experience on how to remove this radio and advice on getting it
repaired. Thank you in advance for your assistance. Jim
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Jim,
Congratulations on your "new" car.
Both my 1960's had non-functional Wonderbar radios that needed to be repaired.
Removal is relatively low tech after you have reviewed your 1962 Corvette
Assembly Manual
(available from Corvette Central or Mid-America).
You may have to remove the package tray and pass side console-to-kick panel
lower panel get access.
Disconnect the radio power wiring connector( LR), the radio speaker connector
(Top) & antenna cable ( RR).
Then, remove the two radio knob sets & two retainer nuts.
Various cables, wiring, defroster duct & console lower trim may need to be
moved aside or disconnected to allow the radio to drop down & pulled out.
Support the bottom of the radio while you remove the 1/2-20 7/16 head screw
from the radio/support strap on the passenger side.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Good afternoon. Although I am not yet a member of your organization, I would
appreciate your help with an issue I am having in converting from the road draft
tube. I have looked in the Adams restoration book and also found that NCRS
concludes that the correct PVC valve for the 62 via the AIM is 5649561. The
problem is that the part listed is not identified other than the number listed.
A search on that number is that the valve is discontued. There is no history or
superseded number. There is also no CV-xxx identifier. My car is a fairly late
build (12916/14531) and the valve for 63 is cv-590. I would appreciate any
information concerning the correct valve for my car. Thank you in advance. Don
From:
Doug Prince, SOCAL Chapter Advisor: AC Delco no longer services the
CV-590 PV valve. It is available from Paragon Reproduction Parts as their part
number 14824 and is stamped correctly and is black oxide in color like the
originals were. You will also need their part number 4318 which is a road draft
tube adaptor and their part number 542K adaptor bolt and gasket kit. These
parts were all part of RPO 242 California Emissions.

From Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor:
If the issue
is just getting the car converted to a PCV valve system here's the solution:
Get an adapter from Paragon (part #4318 for $75) or salvage from an early
model Chevy (64--66)
that goes where the draft tube went.
You can then use rubber hose from that up to the manifold with a PCV
valve(Part # 8560 for $36) in the hose.
If you need to meet NCRS criteria this is not the answer.
Bill Preston
**********
Hello to everyone
I recently purchased a 1961 Corvette and just realized when I pull the hood
release, the hood passenger side will not pop up. I’ve looked online for
solutions without any success. Does anyone have any suggestions? I think the
barrel lock on the cable slipped and now cannot pull the release arm.
From:
Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:
This seemingly insignificant part and it's failure causes much distress and to
C-1 owners annually. Those who have had this problem (or have heard the
horror stories from those who have), take a pair of pliers and bend a small
"L" in the wire, so if the barrel screw comes loose, the bend will catch the
barrel and still open the hood. But, this is a preventive measure, not a
solution to your current problem. Unfortunately, the solution to your problem
is more tedious and time consuming.
Not reccomended, but most simple... I've heard of some owners, who had a poor
quality hood, and didn't mind damaging it... so, they drilled a hole in the
hood and pushed down on the release with a screwdriver, throughout the hole,
then repaired & painted the hood.
However, a more painless method is to jack up the front end of your car and
place it on sturdy jack stands, allowing you to access the engine bay from
underneath. First, remove the right front wheel and tire. Then remove the
clutch head screws holding the wheel well splash shield and remove the splash
shield. This will give you access to the battery box from underneath. You
must then remove the battery box, disconnect the battery and remove it, by
lowering it through the splash shield opening.
Becauase you will doing this by feel, knowing where screws/bolts are located
is important, so consulting an assembly manual or looking at another '61 will
help.
You should then be able to work your hand up thorough the opening and pull
down on the release. If your arms are not long enough, some sort of long
shaft tool, with a hook or an "L" on the end (such as a upholstery tool) will
help.
Good luck.
**********
We have a 59 frame that the "L" brackets (both top and bottom) that mount the
engine supports bolt to, have been destroyed and we would like to find the exact
location for placement of the new "L" bracket. We have been unable to this point
to find reference material with specifications & measurements. Can someone help
with some direction to acquire these specifications or patterns that will
position the brackets properly.
Eye balling of the location from another built frame has proven difficult in
being precise.
Thank you
Anthony
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Tony,
I had the same problem in restoring a 1960 that had been "modified" into a
straight front axle dragster.
I also had no luck in finding correct dimensions for locating the "L"
brackets.
Since the transmission crossmember & trans support were intact, and the
transmission / bell housing / engine block / front motor mount support bracket
are one structural member, my solution was to literally bolt the components up
to the frame.
I used a floor jack to raise the front of the block, with the transmission
support acting as a fulcrum.
With the all the front motor mount components finger tight, the "L" brackets
will pretty much locate themselves..Since my frame was sand blasted, I found
grind marks where the previous brackets were ground off confirming the
location.
Make sure the your components are centered in the frame and the vertical
brackets are perpendicular to the frame horns
before clamping the "L" brackets for welding.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
I'm not a member yet but I could use your help. I have a '56 that the rear
wiring harness was stripped out. I need to know the path of the new harness
through the body work into the rear. I don't find any appropriate holes.
Ken
1956 Corvette
From:
Max Brockhouse, SACC President: Ken, Order a reproduction factory
assembly manual for your '56 from either Corvette Central or Mid America
Motorworks. It will show you how the wiring harness is routed. They run about
$25.00.
Max
**********
I have a 1962 that had the wrong OS mirror and I'm putting on the Y-50, but
holes don't match. I need to know the
correct placement before
drilling new holes and sending to paint. I would appreciate any help on this
matter.
Thanks
Kevin
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Kevin: Except for the first
few 1953 Corvettes produced, all 53-62 Corvettes came from the factory with
Y-50 mirrors installed on the driver's door. This was not true for Chevrolet
sedans and trucks, which came without mirrors, and the selling dealer would
sell and install one of several mirror designs available if the customer
wanted an outside mirror. Therefore detailed installation information is
available on where to drill the holes on sedans and trucks, but not for
Corvette.
The Corvette Assembly
Instruction Manual (AIM) shows how the factory installed the mirror on page
B28. It says this: "Drill two .219 dia. holes in inner panel to match outer
panel after bonding". So, evidently the outer door skin came pre drilled with
the two mounting holes, and after it was bonded to the inner panel, the
assembly line drilled the two holes through the inner panel. After the car
was painted, the Y-50 mirror got mounted using the mounting bracket and a
paper gasket and two machine screws with a lock washer and nut.
You indicate that you are
having your 62 painted. I recommend that you sand down to bare fiberglass in
the area where the original Y-50 mirror was mounted and you should be able to
locate the original holes that have probably been filled in. Re-drill the
original holes using a .219 inch drill and make sure that they line up with
the mirror mounting bracket before having the car painted.
Larry Pearson
**********
I'm finding conflicting answers to the question, "Is the windshield wiper
mounting plate supposed to be the bare metal finish, or painted semi gloss
black"? I plan to have the car judged so need a NCRS correct response.
Thank you in advance.
Robert
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The wiper transmission plate was installed prior to engine
compartment black out. So it should be semi gloss black. Consult your ncrs
judging manual for conformation.
Chip Werstein
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Robert: The windshield wiper mounting plate was in place
when the under hood blackout painting was done, and therefore the entire plate
including the mounting hardware (the screw heads) got painted with the same
semigloss black paint. The wiper motor was mounted later and has no blackout
paint on it.
Larry Pearson
**********
Hi We have problem with our fuel injection on 1962 won’t run at stop
lights. We have had the fuel injection system rebuilt. We are looking for
someone in California who can really work on this system. We have heard about a
specialist in Hesperia California. I cannot find anything on the web. Do you
know any specialists in fuel injections in California? Any help is
appreciated. Kathy
From:
Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Kathy
Fuel cars hate
today's
gas. I don't drive mine unless it's a cool day. There is no fix for the problem
except 100 plus octane leaded gas. The southern California expert is in Canoga
park .......Doug Prince.......818 425 0679
Chip Werstein
From:
Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Kathy,
Your fuel
injection problem is not unique to anybody in SoCal where our summer
temperatures reach 90 degree or more. The problem is California gas is just
terrible and our summer blend makes everything worse. The fuel injection
“spider lines” are only 40 thousands ID and are made from copper which is an
excellent transfer of heat which causes the gasoline in them to boil and
percolate. Fuel injection cars with ambient under hood temperatures over 180
degrees will not idle or restart after engine shutoff. I have been involved
with rebuilding and restoring fuel injection units for over 35 years and I am
currently on the technical list for the SoCal Chapter of Solid Axle Corvettes
from our beginning. Feel free to call me at 818-425-0679 for any suggestions
that might help you but there is no easy fix for the problem of poor or no idle
at stop lights. Rebuilding of your fuel injection unit will not solve your
problem.

Your brief description of the problem you are having raises
a lot of questions that need answers. It won't run at stop lights. Does this
mean that the engine won't idle? Not cold, not hot, not over 180 degrees, not
ever? With the correct aluminum radiator, 170 degree thermostat, fan clutch,
fan shroud, fan, and timing, the engine should not run over 180 degrees. A hot
engine will cause all the problems with California's gasoline that have been
described by the others. Does it run just fine off idle? The unit has been
rebuilt, but did anyone properly adjust the idle fuel and idle speed screws on
the Air Meter? Was the proper idle speed set? On FI engines it must be set
around 850 rpm. If it was adjusted much below 800 rpm, the engine will die,
because the high pressure pump located at the rear of the Fuel Meter cannot
deliver sufficient fuel pressure for the engine to idle at low engine speeds.
If the pump is badly worn, the idle speed may have to be set higher than
900rpm. There could be problems with clogged passageways in the Air Meter idle
circuit. This happened to me. Is the unit a true 1962 unit, or is it a
collection of parts from various units? The Rochester part numbers for the 1962
Corvette were 7017355 (very early), and 7017360 (most of the 62's). The 1962
unit was the first unit to have a true choke on the air meter, and for that
reason is considered to be, possibly, the best unit of all of them, including
63-65 units. By 1962, Rochester had most of the bugs worked out of their Ramjet
Fuel Injection system. The 1962 Ramjet units usually work very well, even with
the bad gas. Mine does.
To learn more about your fuel injection unit, you need to
read pages 6M-1 through 6M-33 in Chevrolet's official shop manual for the solid
axle Corvettes, Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12. This book is
available as a reprint from all the Corvette parts suppliers. The Fuel
Injection section in 6M deals mostly with your 1962 unit. Compare the pictures
with what you have.
Larry Pearson
**********
how to replace a 1961 corvette speedometer housing. is there a bulkhead under
the dash? I try and it wont come out
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
HB Chevy,
The speedometer housing is attached on the interior area of the Instrument
Cluster by two Phillips head machine screws.
To get access to those, the instrument cluster has to be disassembled from the
dashboard which is held in by 5- 5/16 bolts. The "bulkhead" is the cluster
support bracket which does NOT require removal. Just make sure you have
located all 5 attachment bolts.
The two on the outside (closest to the driver) are hidden under the dash pad.
Keep in mind that you are playing in some expensive/entensive effort territory
if you tear the pad or break the cluster casting.
Use masking tape to tag any wiring you disconnect to remove the cluster
housing.
Take digital pictures BEFORE you tear into this area. Trust me. You WILL
forget exactly how to reassemble.
All this information (and more) is available in the assembly manual for your
car (that you haven't read yet, but will I hope)
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
I'm not a member yet, but will be..I've purchased a 1954 all original
corvette. It runs great but I noticed something. When I start the car the oil
pressure gauge does not want to kick in until I hit the accelerator a little
bit. Almost like the rpms need to hit a certain point for it to work. While
sitting idle after starting it will climb to 30-35 psi and stays that way
while driving. But once the engine is hot and a few miles on it when I come to
a redlight or stop the oil pressure drops to 15-20 psi.
I cannot find anywhere the specs for what it should be. Any help would be most
appreciated. Thank you in advance..
Duke
From:
Bruce Fuhrman,SACC Secretary:
Hi Duke,
Congrats on your new '54. There are 2 different oil pumps used on the 235
engine in '54. Until about May of 1954 they used a 1/2" gear pump. They then
switched to a 3/4" gear to provide more pressure to the rod bearings. Assuming
you have an early VIN (below 3000) you still have the smaller pump, the
pressures you are reading seem about normal for an engine that is 62 yrs. old.
As far as the low pressure at start up it could be several things. The oil
gear pump is rpm sensitive and the pressure should rise with engine rpm. If
the car sits for several days the copper tube to the gage does drain down and
will take some time to refill and reflect pressure on the gage. The gage is
old school and a direct pressure not electric via a pressure diaphragm. There
may be some old sludge in the copper line to the gage and you may want to
remove it and clean it out with solvent and air pressure.
Hope this helps,
Bruce Fuhrman
1954 Corvette
**********
My 59 Corvette has the word ivory written in the trunk could you please tell
me what that means?
Mark
From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice
President: Before these cars were painted, workers wrote the
primary exterior color name inside the trunk, on the fiberglass wall separating
the passenger compartment and trunk with a grease pencil. This writing would
have been painted over, but sometime the outline is still visible (if not
removed during a restoration).
89 Corvettes were painted "Classic Cream" for 1959 and only 5 were painted
"special" colors. Although a layman might mistake the color name, it's doubtful
an assembly workers would have made that error when writing the car's color
name.
This is a long shot, but if written in the afore mentioned manner and
location, it may merit some additional research and documentation. If your car
is one of the 5 "special color" Corvettes and was originally painted "Ivory" at
the St. Louis, assembly plant, you may have a rare car.
From: Chip Werstein,
Southern California Chapter Advisor:
Noland Adams documented this subject
quite well many years ago. Note that during the C-1 years there were 3
different "whites" used. 53-57 was polo white. 58-60 was snowcrest white and
61-62 was ermine white. Starting in 1958 the primary body color was written in
green grease pencil on the right side of the fiberglass trunk divider.
Although I can't recall ever checking a white 59 trunk, I have seen several 60
white cars with the color indicated as ivory............never white. I have
also seen black, turq, maroon,silver,red, and charq. I can assume that all 58-
60 Corvettes painted white will have ivory written in the trunk.
Why did the St. Louis factory call the Corvette color Ivory rather than
white? My guess...........and it is only a guess...........is that there
were other cars and trucks built in St. Louis that may have used different
white paints. Perhaps each "white" was given a nickname so it wouldn't get
accidently used on the wrong vehicle. Ivory my have been a Corvette only
color or maybe stated better, ivory was the only white that was to be used
on a Corvette. With all that said, ivory written in the trunk of your 59
tells us your car was painted snowcrest white at the factory.
Chip Werstein
From:
Max Brockhouse,SACC President: Actually, Ivory is
a 1959 color. I have seen one other Corvette with ivory, a parts car. If
Larry Richter were still with us, he could fill in the blanks. I believe it
was a late production color, changed from Classic Cream. Most likely a
very "low" production number.
**********
I bought my 55 Corvette in the 70's with a non original engine and
the VIN has the V scratched in rather than stamped. I know in those
days a lot of "hand" assembly was going on but in my older years I
started wondering if this was originally a 6 cylinder, are there any
other markers I can look for to establish whether this was
originally a 6 or V8.
Larry
From:
Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
Hi Larry,
The only clues I can offer are as follows;
1. The '54 all had VIN #'s E54S0XXXX
2. The '55 had 2 versions; 6 Cyl was E55S0XXX, The V-8 had a prefix "V" either
stamped or etched in front of the VIN.
3. Other clues, there should be a gold V on each front fender above the
CHEVROLET for the V-8 version.
4. The V-8 engine required a small notch being cut in the right front frame to
accommodate the V-8 fuel pump.
5. There is a VIN # stamped on the top of the frame just below the drivers
seat (left cheek) that is only visible only by cleaning and applying chalk and
wipe off then use a flashlight and mirror. Option, remove body to check VIN #
!!
There were only a limited # of 6 cyl. cars built in 55.
Hope this helps,
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
Hi:
I have the same engine as in your vettes…My is 235 three YH’s In my dirt track
race car.
I have trouble adjusting to get a smooth Idle…
I have a gauge to measure air intake…
Please give me the first settings to start…
Thanks
Ivan
From:
Bruce Furhman, Sacc Secretary:
Hi Ivan,
I have a '54 with the same 3 stock carbs. There is a small balance hole in
the manifold between all 3 that negates me having to balance all separately.
Each carb feeds 2 cylinders. I am able to control the idle by adjusting the
small idle screws on the front of the carbs. Only idle issue I have
experienced is when the carb accelerator pumps made of rubber (about 3/4" in
dia.) have small pin holes which bleed into the carb throttle body and cause a
rich idle. The pin holes are caused by the fuel (MTBE) additive which eat away
at the rubber. If the carb accelerator pumps are over 7 years old they may be
suspect. They can be replaced without removing the carbs from the
manifold. Overhaul kits can be purchased from several sources on the
Internet.
Good luck,
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
Installing a package tray in a 62 corvette:
The tray has been installed incorrectly in my car, I have ordered the 19 piece
install kit but I cannot see where the “l-brackets hook” any help will be
appreciated thanks
Charles
From: Larry
Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Charles: The installation
instructions for all the pieces you have are found in the 1962 Corvette
Assembly Instruction Manual (1962 Corvette AIM), which is available from all
the major Corvette Parts Suppliers. This is a document that the Corvette
designers prepared for the assembly plant to use to assemble the car and has
been reproduced for Corvette restorers to use. The information you need is
found in Section B, sheet 12 "Tray-Instrument Panel". I assume that all the
holes are already drilled in your instrument panel. If not, the job will be
more difficult, because the AIM does not specify where to drill the holes in
the instrument panel where two "L" brackets and three screws along the back of
the tray attach to. The AIM does not have written instructions on how to
install the pieces. The drawing just shows a "blowup" showing all the parts.
None of the installation screws thread directly into the instrument panel
fiberglass. Clip nuts or machine screws and nuts must be used. Two "L"
brackets are riveted to the tray. If yours are not riveted to the tray and no
rivets were supplied, you will have to use machine screws with with lock
washers. These two "L" brackets screw to two other "L" brackets that attach
to the instrument panel on each side of the tray. Of course, the tray must be
painted to match the interior color.
The
Corvette Servicing Guide,
ST-12, is the "official" Chevrolet shop manual for the Solid Axle Corvettes.
It is also available from the Corvette Parts Suppliers as a reprint. The
installation of the Instrument Panel Tray is illustrated in Figure 14 on page
1-7 and a brief instruction is found on page 1-8 of this book.
Larry Pearson
**********
My 61 vette's horn will not blow. When I press on
the horn button it tries to blow and stops. The generator
shows total negative discharge until I remove my hand from
the horn. Any help or suggestions on this matter is greatly
appreciated.
Harold
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Tech Advisor: Harold: You don't say if this is a new
problem that suddenly came up, or if the horns never worked. So I will tell you
how the horns are activated and how to troubleshoot the problem.
Your Corvette originally came with two horns that are mounted on the left and
right side of the area in front of the radiator. These horns consist of a high
note and a low note horn. The horns are marked where the sound comes out with a
"H" for high note and a "L" for low note. The horns are mounted so that their
outlets point toward the grille, not up or not down. Does your car have both
horns? You can see them from outside the car through the grille. If not, you
need to purchase one or both horns. If you have skinny arms and small hands,
reach in with the hood open and determine if the horns are securely attached to
the car fiberglass. If one or both are loosely attached, you need to tighten
the 1/2 inch hex bolts attaching them. The attaching hardware for each horn
consists of a 1/2 inch hex bolt with a 5/16 inch coarse thread, an external star
lock washer (to penetrate the black paint on the horn body and give the horn
body a good ground connection), and a ground lug with a black wire on it. All
this threads into a steel nut plate that is rivited with two aluminum rivets to
the inner fender fiberglass panel on the wheelwell side. If you need to tighten
or loosten these bolts, make sure that they are not rusted in place. Examine
them from the wheelwell side with a flashlight and spray the threads with WD 40
or something like it. These bolts are grade 3 and it is easy to break them off
if you use too much force. Believe me, you do not want to break this bolt
off!!! Corvette Central sells replacement nut plates and attaching rivets, but
it is very difficult to install the rivets with the inner fender in place.
Chevy riveted the nut plate in place on the inner fender before they bonded the
inner fender to the car body.
The horns are activated by a Horn Relay, which is attached to the driver's side
inner fender fiberglass, just behind the radiator header, with two Phillips head
self tapping screws. The original relays had a black painted cover, or a
silvery cadmium plated cover. Either cover version is embossed with the
words"Delco Remy". The Horn Relay has three wires connected to it using slotted
head screws. The terminals are marked "S", "B", and "H" (according to the
wiring diagram). I do not have a horn relay in front of me. The "S" wire is a
20 gauge tan wire and it goes to the horn button inside the car. The "B" wire
is a 12 gauge red wire and goes to the car battery 12 volt supply. The "H" wire
is a 14 gauge black wire and connects to the push on terminals on both horns.
(Remember: the lower the wire size number, the bigger the wire is.) This black
wire applys 12 volts to both horns simultaneously to activate them. When the
horns are activated, the coils inside of them draw lots of current, and that is
why the ammeter shows a severe discharge when the horns are activated. When you
depress the horn button inside the car, it applies a ground to the 20 gauge tan
wire on the Horn Relay, causing the relay coil to energize and apply 12 volts to
the horns. If the horns don't blow, take a dc voltmeter and verify that the "B"
terminal on the relay has 12 volts on it (it always has 12 volts on it, and if
it doesn't, you have to fix it), and the "H" terminal has 12 volts on it when
the relay is activated with the horn button. If the voltage on the "H" terminal
measures less than 12 volts, the contact inside the relay may be corroded and
the relay is defective. You can pry the tabs on the relay cover open and access
the inside of the relay. You may be able to file or sand the contact surfaces
to remove the corrosion and restore the relay to proper operation. If the
activating coil is bad, you may be able to fix it or you will have to replace
the Horn Relay. You can activate the Horn Relay from under the hood by applying
a ground from the engine block (the engine block on our Corvettes is "ground",
not the car's frame) directly to the "S" terminal on the relay using a jumper
wire. If the horns work by applying a ground directly to the relay, but the
horn button inside the car doesn't activate the relay, then the problem is
inside the steering wheel hub or the wiring from the slip ring inside the hub to
the relay via the tan wire to the relay.
If everything checks out ok to this point, then the problem is with the horns or
the wiring going to the horns from the Horn Relay "H" terminal or the ground
wire connected to each horn. Check that both horns have a black ground wire
connected to their mounting bolts and that the bolts are tight. Each horn is
powered with a push on terminal on the end of the horn wire. Make sure that
these connections to the horn terminals are pushed on all the way and are tight.
If everything checks out ok and the horns still don't work, then remove the
wire from one of the horns and see if the other horn works. If it doesn't, then
that horn needs adjusting or rebuilding. Disconnect the second horn and see if
the other horn works. Usually only one horn is defective, and you need to
determine which one it is. These horns have an adjusting screw on them. You
can use a 1/4 inch socket to adjust the screw. This adjusting screw can be used
to optimize the sound, or get the horn working if it doesn't work. You should
not have to turn the adjusting screw more than one turn in either direction to
activate the horn. Turning the screw excessively in a clockwise direction can
damage the insides of the horn. If one or both horns can't be made to work when
mounted to the car, you will have to remove the defective horn(s) from the car.
Once outside the car, try to activate the inoperative horn by connecting it
directly to a 12 volt car battery. Connect the horn mounting bracket to the
negative battery terminal (just push it against the terminal) and use a heavy
duty (at least 14 gauge) jumper from the battery positive to the horn terminal
and see if you can adjust the horn to work. If it still doesn't work, a
rebuilding service is available through Corvette Central to rebuild your horn,
or you can buy a service replacement horn. These horns fail when water gets
into the inner workings of the horn through a defective paper gasket that was
used to seal the top and bottom pieces of the horn. The horn consists of a top
and bottom zinc die casting that is connected with a series of rivets through a
paper gasket. If the gasket fails, rain water gets inside the horn and rusts
the electrical connections. If you like to fix things, you can drill out the
connecting rivets and try to clean up the rusted connections. Re-attach things
using aluminum rivets or screws and nuts with lock washers. Use plenty of RTV
sealant in place of the paper gasket. I've done it! Don't discard an
inoperative original horn. The core is valuable.
Larry Pearson
**********
As My car was featured in the Summer 2015 issue of SACC Magazine I forgot to
remember that My car came with a driver's compartment tonneau cover, ie, a 3
top car.
Does any one else in the club have or know of any such aftermarket
accessory?
One of the previous owners must have had a great sense of style to go to the
expence to show off His car as something Special !
John
From:
Max Brockhouse, SACC President:
This most likely was installed by an upholstery shop. This was very
popular to do to the two setter convertibles in the 60's. Road racing was
becoming of age and it provided an edge against wind resistance in an open
cockpit. Usually, it had a zipper allowing the driver to be out to drive
then it could be zipped shut to keep out the elements. Normally, it had
snaps all the way around so it could be totally removed to allow for your
girlfriend to ride too. Even if you did not road race, it made you look
cool to have one.
I bought my first '57 T-bird in '69 and it had one installed on it when I
purchased it. Be proud you own a piece of car hobby history and how times
change.
Max Brockhouse SACC President E-mail: saccmb@hotmail.com
**********
HI GENTLEMAN , I HAVE A 1959 CORVETTE THAT
CAME WITH THE OPTION HARD TOP ONLY, I NOW HAVE BOUGHT THE
CONVT TOP BOW ASSY. EXAMINATION OF WHERE THE CONVT BOW ASSY WOULD
MOUNT TO THE BODY,'' BEHIND THE SEATS'' I DON'T SEE THE MOUNTING
BOLT HOLES, MY QUESTION IS, AT THE FACTORY BUILD, WERE THE BRACKETS MOLDED
IN THE FIBERGLASS, EVEN IF THE CAR CAME WITH THE HARDTOP ONLY
OPTION ? THANK YOU SAM, ACTON
CA.
From:
Max Brockhouse, SACC President: Purchase your self an
assembly instruction manual for a '59 from either Corvette Central or Mid
America Motor Works (about $25.00). It will show you what metal brackets are
missing that will allow you to mount your soft top. Do you have the rear hold
down clamps on your deck lid? If not, you will need them as well. Hardtops are
held down with bolts.
Max Brockhouse SACC President
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Sam,
Simple question with a comlex answer.
The first thing you must do is get an 1959 Corvette Assembly Manual.
Use it to identify all the various support brackets, mounting brackets,
fasteners, rear deck lid and soft top rear attachment latches that are
required to complete the transition.
Go visit a friend with a '58-'62 convertible and ask to look & take pictures
of his car.
All the parts you need are available in after-market from various Corvette
parts vendors.
In addition, although they are used and may be more expensive, original parts
can still be found.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres. Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
Restoring my 62 corvette I have no pics of the internal parts of the doors
and where they go. Do you have pics of the doors or some kind of print?
Maybe you can show how to reinstall all the door parts with new felt and
rubber. Thanks Bob
From:
Max Brockhouse, SACC President: Purchase one or both
of these book/manual; Noland Adams' THE COMPLETE CORVETTE RESTORATION &
TECHNICAL GUIDE-VOL.1 1953-1962 or a 1962 assembly instruction manual. Nolands'
book is out of print and the assembly manuals can be ordered from mail order
companies such as Corvette Central or Mid-America.
Max Brockhouse SACC President E-mail:
saccmb@hotmail.com
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor: Bob: All the answers to your questions
about anything to do with your 1962 Corvette are to be found in Chevrolet's
official Corvette Service Manual: "Corvette Servicing Guide", publication
#ST-12. This Service Manual is available as a reprint from all the major
Corvette Parts Suppliers. The Doors are covered in Section 1 BODY, pages 1-13
through 1-20. Almost any parts that you need are available from Corvette
Central. More service parts are available today than were available from
Chevrolet when your car was new.
Another source for information on how your 1962 was built can be found in the
1962 CORVETTE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTION MANUAL (AIM). This manual is a reprint of a
publication done by Corvette Engineering and consists of Engineering drawings
showing the St Louis Assembly Plant how to build the car. Information on the
doors is found in Section F: Side Doors, pages B53-B66.
Larry Pearson
**********
Tail lights, brake lights, interior light, instrument lights not working.
The above mentioned lights all worked a few months ago, now not so. The rear
blinkers work, (canceling switch no) and front parking lamps light.
I am targeting the main light switch, but just read about the issues caused by
the turn signal switch.
Due to both brake light out, tail lights out, and insturment and interior lights
out all at the same time, I believe the light switch is culprit. (Fuses all ok)
All help or suggestions appreciated! -Ed
From: Larry
Pearson, Southern California Chapter: Ed: You don't say what year
Corvette you have, and that might affect the recommendations I am making. The
front parking lights and rear tail lights have bulbs with two filiaments in
them. The smaller size filiament is for the running lights that come on when
the headlight switch knob is pulled out to the first click and continue to
operate when the knob is pulled completely out, activating the headlights in
addition to the running lights. The larger filiament in these bulbs are
activated by the turn signal switch. In addition, the brake light switch
activates this larger filiament on the rear lights only. If the turn signal is
activated while applying the brakes, the flasher unit interrupts the brakelight
filiament on one side only. Therefore, if the brake lights don't work in the
tail lights, the problem is either the brake light switch located under the dash
just above the brake pedal arm, or the turn signal switch. If the mechanical
mechanism that returns the turn signal handle to the center position doesnt work
properly, and wiggling it gets the brake lights to work, then the problem is in
this mechanism, and you need to fix it. Or the problem could be in the turn
signal switch itself if the wiggling doesn't get the brake lights working. The
headlight switch is not involved with the brake lights or the turn signal light
function.
The turn signal switch can be taken apart by bending the four tabs up and
carefully pulling it open. There are two sliding contacts, each having a spring
under them that push them up against metal contacts cast into the bakelite
housing. Don't lose the springs or the contacts, and note how the contacts are
oriented. Maybe the contact surfaces are oxadised and cleaning them will fix
the problem. Or the small springs may have overheated and partially collapsed,
resulting in insufficient pressure to push the sliding contacts into a good
connection. Pulling on the springs to stretch them may restore their length and
now things will work. Replace any grease that you remove with a similar type
grease to minimise contact wear. Another possibility is bad solder joints where
the colored wires connect to the switch terminals. If the switch is bad and
cannot be fixed, Corvette Central sells a replacement switch assembly. When
pushing the switch wires into the car connector, use long nose pliers to push
them all the way in until they "click", or, in my experience, they will become
disconnected. Check that these connections are solid by gently pulling on them,
because this might be the source of your problem.
The headlight switch controls the headlights, the parking lights in front, the
running lights in the rear tail lamps, the instrument lights including the clock
and radio, and the courtesy light(s)(these were optional before 1961 and may not
be present in your car). As explained above, pulling out the headlight control
knob should result in the front and rear running lights being activated and the
headlights being activated. Turning this knob fully counterclockwise should
activate the courtesy light(s)(if you have them). Turning this knob clockwise
should increase the brightness of the instrument lights to full bright when
fully clockwise. If the instrument lights brightness function is erratic, then
the variable resistor (rheostat) windings on the front of the headlight switch
need to be polished using fine sandpaper, along with the contacting surface on
the wiper to remove corrosion that forms on these surfaces over time. If the
headlight switch functions don't work properly, the switch needs to be removed
from the instrument housing for repair or replacement. Disconnect the car
battery before attempting to remove the headlight switch. Remove the knob by
pushing it all the way in and then depressing a spring loaded button on the
bottom surface of the switch and then pulling the knob assembly all the way out
of the switch. Depressing the spring loaded button on the bottom of the switch
releases the knob assembly from the switch. With the knob removed from the
switch, unscrew the special retaining nut using long nose pliers applied to the
two notches. Unplug the switch from the wiring harness plug and inspect the
terminals on the top of the switch for evidence of overheating and loosness.
Maybe the big connector was not pushed all the way onto the terminals on top of
the switch. If nothing appears wrong, you can test the switch out of the
instrument cluster and see if now it works. If everything looks fine but the
switch still doesn't work, you can pop it open and see if all the internal
contacts look good. Rebend the internal contacts as needed to make better
contact and clean any corrosion off the contacts. Polish the rheostat windings
top surface and the contacting susrface of the wiper to improve its function.
If the switch still doesn't work, you will probably have to buy a new switch.
Again Corvette Central sells the switch.
**********
Hi
SACC!
Does a real, original NOS front bumper for 1958 have
waves on the metal surface (under the chrome) of the
bumper?I was told it should not have any waves,
only the chrome process can be of poor quality (not show
chrome). A real NOS bumper is suppose to have a
straight, flat surface.
Also, can someone obtain a GM license, make a bumper
and put a GM sticker on the bumper, calling it
NOS?
Aloha,
Eric
Corvette Clubs Hawaii State
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor: Eric. An original "real" 1958-1960 and
1961-1962 front bumper has waves in it at the corner where the bumper turns to
the side of the car. This is because the bumper was constructed in two pieces
and welded together at the corner, resulting in some waves where the welding was
done, even after polishing. Of course, a plating shop can grind all of these
waves out and make the surface perfect. GM could have made the surface perfect
at the time of original manufacture, but this would take more labor and cost
more money. The original plating may also have streaks and roughness in parts
of the bumper, especially on the lower side. It was not show quality. Also, I
have observed that GM service replacement bumpers were not finished as well as
the original production bumpers installed at the time of manufacture of the car.
Service replacement bumpers sold by GM Parts Division were shipped in a
corrugated cardboard box, not shipped bare with a sticker on
them. No GM logos or part numbers were stamped into the metal of original or
GM service replacement bumpers, so, in my opinion, no license from GM would be
needed to reproduce them. These bumpers were discontinued by GM years ago, but
are still being reproduced and sold by the Corvette parts suppliers. I don't
know if the current reproduction bumpers are being manufactured using the
original GM tooling, but the quality is at least as good as the originals. If
you are planning to have NCRS judge your car, consult their Judging Manuals to
see if deductions are being made for "over restoration" for perfect bumpers.
**********
I purchased the car after it had had a frame off restoration and do not know
the history.
When I purchased the car it was shipped directly to Calgary Alberta where it
remained for three years and there were no problems with the paint.
I then had the car shipped to my shop in Corpus Christi where after the first
summer the paint blisters appeared mostly on the front fenders and nose and
grill areas.
The paint was stripped and car was repainted. After the first summer the
paint blisters reappeared but not necessarily in the same spots.
The hood, trunk, rear fenders, rear end never blustered. The blisters on the
doors were minimal.
Corpus is hot in the summer with high humidity, the opposite of Calgary,
Alberty.
Thanks for taking the time to address my paint issues.
Don
From Bill Preston, Red River
Chapter Advisor:
It's
been my experience that paint blisters come from one of three sources:
contaminants embedded in the fiberglass from stripper and other chemicals,
solvent trapped due to not waiting long enough between coats of paint, or
trapped moisture. The only solution is to take the paint back off and thoroughly
clean the fiberglass and let it sit in the 100 degree Texas
sun
for about a week before applying primer, etc. (A body shop bake oven will cure
it too)
If there were fiberglass repairs in the bubbling areas, the Bondo tends to
hold the contaminants more than the fiberglass itself.
**********
There is NO bolt hole in cranks nose
For installing tool
Please advise me to install new balancer
Thank you
Vic
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor: Victor: On the low horsepower (hydraulic
lifter engines), the harmonic balancer is a press fit on the crankshaft nose.
To install the replacement harmonic balancer, carefully orient it on the
crankshaft keyway and hammer it on using a small sledge hammer and a block of
soft metal, i.e. aluminum, to avoid damage to the front face of the new
balancer. If the engine is in the car, there isn't a lot of room to swing the
hammer. Whenever rebuilding a low horsepower engine it is advised to have the
crankshaft drilled and tapped for a bolt to help in installing the balancer as
well as keeping it from working its way off the crankshaft snout during use.
Also, if this is a fresh engine, be sure to install the spacer on the
crankshaft before installing the balancer. The spacer spaces the harmonic
balancer out by the thickness of the front engine mount crossmember so the
generator and water pump belt will be in alignment. Corvette Central
illustrates the
installation of this spacer in their catalog as part number 301120. They also
sell a harmonic balancer bolt kit. I don't recall what the size of the bolt is.
Larry Pearson
**********
Hello,
I am Michael from Germany. I restore my Corvette 1960. As I build a original
engine 283 I am also searching for a correct transmission 4 Speed.
Can you please help me and say to me if this BW T 10
is correct and and I can buy it??? Shure that I need the Hurst 4 Speed Shifter
Kit too. It will be very very very delightful if you can help me!!!!!
Thanks a lot and have a nice day!!! Attached you can see the newest
photo from my engine after painting it 1 week ago.
Best regards
Michael
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Michael,
A Borg-Warner T-10 transmission is correct for your 1960 Corvette. The unit
shown in the e-bay link was built in
Feb
1959 and therefore a little early to be "Correct" for your car
but, if as advertised, would certainly look original.
If your car currently has a 3-speed or no transmission at all, you will need a
complete B-W shifter kit including shifter rods, shift links & clips. A
correct shifter would have the reverse lock-out T-handle.
A Hurst shifter would not be correct for your car but would work OK.
If you go the Hurst route, it still requires the Borg-Warner linkage kit, NOT
a Muncie kit.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
My 62 has a wire coming out of the trunk latch. Did 62 have an option for
electric trunk release?
From: Doug Prince,
SoCal Chapter Advisor: Absolutely not.
(Note from website editor
- Those type of trunk releases are a more
recent innovation.)
**********
Hi, I just completed the restoration of my 59 Corvette and have a
question. The top is
installed and fits the body great. The problem is putting it into the storage
well. It hits on the rear corners and one
side is so bad that the well cover sits up a couple inches. I don't want to
change the top frame adjustments which
will make the frame not fit the side windows. So what should I do? I push and
push the top down,
tried folding the material every way possible and it still sits high in that
corner. Thanks, jack
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
The problem you are having is that the major reproduction top supplier (Al
Knoch) is using a material that is much thicker (at
least twice) than the original material, and that is why it is difficult to
compress the folded top into the top compartment. I still have some scraps
of the original material and it is, literally, paper thin. Al is in a bind
on this. Think about it. If he were to accurately reproduce the original
thin material, then the competition would compare their heavier material
with it and advertise that Al's tops are made of inferior flimsy material,
and Al would lose sales of tops. The only way you could get Al to change
would be for NCRS to deduct originality points when judging the tops that
are too thick. Al would love that because then everyone having their cars
judged would have to buy a new top. He has done this many times in the
past. His first tops had a sewn in rear window with no logo or date code,
the wrong grain and the wrong binding grain. Gradually, one by one, he
fixed these these things and sold a whole lot of tops in the process. I
waited to buy mine until he fixed everything, because I knew what needed
fixing. His current tops look completely correct. I have tried to get
NCRS to fix their judging manuals many times and always got nowhere.
One last point with the reproduction issue, and
that is that the original logo and date code were heat stamped into the rear
window. The last tops I bought from Al, the logo and date stamp were cold
stamped into the window. The rear window plastic has a "memory", and after
a few years, the logo and $50 date stamp completely disappears! He will do
it right if you insist when you order the top. It is virtually impossible
to remove a top fabric, return it to him, and have him do the logo and date
over, and then reinstall the top. I talked to him about this, and he
understands.
Your only solution here is to push the top down
as hard as you can and then slam the lid. It helps to do this on a hot
day. Never fold the top down on a cold wintery day,
no matter what it is made of (except 100% cloth tops). The staples will
pull out of the tacking strips and the top or rear window may tear. The
main interference is with the ends of the header, and there is no adjustment
here. Do not fool with the top frame adjustments. Then nothing will fit
when you raise the top.
Larry Pearson
**********
How do I install seat cushions for a 1960 corvette on their frame. I don't
see any way to attach the seat and back cushions to the frame. The only clip I
see on the frame is I think for the seat back cushion but that clip needs
something else to hold the seat back cushion on. . Are the cushions bolted on
the frame, if so how. Would appreciate any advise, help, comments that would
help me get over this hurdle in my restoration. Thanks.
Tom
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Tom,
Let's start with the basics. The seat backs and bottom cushions are driver or
passenger and are symetrically opposite.
To tell the difference, the outside upper edge of each back is trimmed at an
angle to clear the deck lid and leave room for the trim tab. Each seat back
frame has two integral wire loops that hook over the top of the seat frame.
There are two tabs resistence welded to the bottom of the seat frame that hook
over and retain the lower integral wire loops on the seat sack.
Once the back cushions are installed, the bottom cushions are nested into the
seat frame with the upholstered side toward the door.
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor:
Tom: The seat back frames each have two heavy steel loops at the top that
hook over the top of the seat frame. These should be bent as necessary to
make a tight connection at the top of the frame to minimize rattles. The lower
part of the seat backs have two flat steel tabs, each about one inch wide,
that are bent up by you, the installer, to secure the bottom part of the seat
backs to the seat frame. These steel tabs are made up of soft steel and can
be bent up and down repeatedly without breaking. But on your car if the tabs
are broken off, try securing the bottom of the seat backs to the seat frame
using plastic tie wraps, which can be cut off when you want to remove the seat
backs.
The seat cushions are held in place by gravity. They are not bolted or tabbed
to the seat frame. There is a left and a right seat cushion, however, and it
is easy to get them reversed. The outside (facing the doors) of the bottom
cushions each have an extension down that helps hide the seat frame from view.
Larry Pearson
**********
I need to replace all radiator hoses and there is very little room to get at
the lower radiator hose clamp at the radiator. Do I need to remove the fan
shroud to get at it? If not what is the trick?
Thanks in advance.
Joe

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor:
Although GM did provide an access notch in the lower two piece fan
shroud it is practically impossible to loosen the lower hose and hose clamp with
everything still in place. You will save yourself much time and effort by
removing the upper and lower fan shrouds to accomplish this task. Good luck
with this project.....
**********
put new dash pad in 61corvette but I did not take apart need diagram to help
put lites in speedo and gauges back together thanks
tom
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Tom: If you don't have it, you need to purchase a copy of Chevrolet
publication ST-12, Corvette Servicing Guide. This is the only official
Chevrolet shop manual for the 1953-1962 Corvettes. It should be easily
obtainable from the major Corvette part suppliers. The chassis wiring diagram
for the 1961-62 Corvettes is shown on page 12-14. The instrument lights are
identified by the color of the wires going to the plug-in lamp sockets. The
colors are as follows:
Dark Blue: Right turn signal lamp
Light Green: High beam indicator lamp
Light Blue: Left turn signal lamp
Tan: Hand brake warning lamp. This was sometimes an optional feature.
The lamp bulb is a special flashing type.
Gray: all the same instrument panel lights. Two go to the speedometer
housing; one goes to the oil pressure/ammeter gauge housing; one goes to the
temperature/gasoline gauge housing; one goes to the clock in the center
console; one goes to the tachometer.
Make certain that the main instrument panel ground wire is connected to the
left rear upper rocker arm cover screw. It is a black with white trace
14-gauge wire. On C1 Corvettes the engine block, not the frame, is the ground
source for all the electrical systems on the car. This wire must be there!!!
Remember, on Corvette the body is made of fiberglass and does not conduct
electricity. All lights and electrical devices must get their ground return
from the engine block, which is connected to the battery negative terminal via
a starter mounting bolt. The Corvette electrical systems gets their power
from a 12 Gauge red wire that connects to the center lug on the starter
solenoid, which connects to the car battery positive terminal.
Larry Pearson
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Tom,
First purchase after we buy an old Corvette is (or should be) an Assembly
Manual.
Most Corvette parts vendors, including Corvette America, Mid-America, Corvette
Central & Paragon Reproductions,
will sell you one for your '61. It will contain all the illustrations you
need for this project and more.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
I have the emergency brake light on my 61 vette and it has stopped working. I
have tried the wires and it appears to be something inside. Is there anyone
that repairs these since no one makes them new?
Harold

From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Assuming all the wires and contacts are good:
There's only 3 things that could not be working in your emergency brake
light: the flasher, bulb or switch.
If it's the flasher that's the problem, replace it with a regular turn
signal flasher.
Which would require rewiring where it connects to the wires.
If it's the light itself, you can replace the bulb. If it's the switch
on the emergency
brake handle make sure it's making contact. If not, you should be able
to "adjust" (bend)
the spring to help it make better contact. (The
switch is on the ground side of the circuit)
I had to work on my switch recently,
cleaning it up and "adjusting" it.
I don't know anyone who could rebuild the
light as such.
**********
Good morning-
I have a '61 Corvette with the 315 FI engine. It starts and runs great but
when it gets hot it is really hard to get started again. Normally I have to
let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes to cool off. Then it starts and runs great
again. I changed the coil, thinkin that the oil inside it was overheating but
that hasn't cured it. Could it be the fuel? I keep hearing that I need to
run leaded fuel.
Thanks
Frank

From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor:
Here
are possible solutions we use for the problems caused by using ethanol fuel in
our Rochester Fuel Injector and even in carburetors .
1. We use 100LL aviation fuel available at our local small airport for about
$5 per gallon.
It has no ethanol.
2. We also consult a website
www.pure-gas.com
or use their phone ap
to locate non ethanol
gas when travelling. Some of this is lower octane and we have to add an
octane booster. (there is no good gas available within 50 miles of us)
3. We bring home non-ethanol fuel in gas cans whenever we are in an area
that has it. Non-ethanol fuel can be stored
for longer period of time than ethanol fuel.
4. You can take the ethanol out of the fuel. In a clear container add 10%
water to ethanol fuel, shake well, let it
sit for a few minutes, ethanol will bind to the water and visibly settle
to the bottom. Drain ethanol/water off, which leaves non-ethanol gas with
a lower octane than the original ethanol fuel. Add octane booster. (You
can read complete articles about this on line)
6. We also bought a big expensive 55 gal. barrel of good gas ($10 per
gallon) to have at home until we worked out
these other solutions. Fortunately we haven't had to buy another one.
7. We have used a product called Sea Foam
in each tank of gas used in our carbureted Chevy. Haven't done that with
the FI.
8. Contact your legislator and explain to
him/her that ethanol costs more to produce than gasoline, everyone gets
lower gas mileage out of that stuff and using corn for fuel is causing the
price of food to go up because there is more demand for the corn.
Bill Preston
From;
Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Welcome to the “Club” Frank
as gasohol is the culprit which is 10% ethanol. Ethanol substantially
lowers the boiling point of fuel that you currently purchase at your
favorite gas station. Rochester fuel injection units have very small
copper fuel lines to each nozzle and copper is great conductor of heat.
What is happening with your car is as the underhood temperature rises
the fuel in the spider begins to percolate causing the fuel injection to
become overly rich thus stalling at stop signs and signal lights, very
poor idling and extremely difficult to restart when hot. The fuel
injection plenum becomes super rich from the percolated fuel in the
spider which then fills the plenum with unburned fuel vapors. Fuel
injected cars residing in Southern California and the West Coast in
general all suffer this same problem. The only leaded gas that you can
buy is racing fuel which is extremely expensive and short lived in your
16 gallon gas tank. There is an additive that I have recently become
aware of that greatly reduces the percolation problem. It is
manufactured by Torco Oil Company and is called Accelerator.
Accelerator comes in 32 once cans and mixed 1 can to 10 gallons of 91
octane ethanol fuel raises the octane rating 10 full points to 101 and
also helps with the percolation problem. We are seeing some encouraging
results out here in Southern California where our summertime
temperatures readily exceed 100 degrees. One other “trick” is to
immediately open your hood to let out the hot underhood temperatures
that lead to percolation of your fuel injection system. Give this
product a try and best of luck.
**********
Could you please tell me if I still need the ballast resistor if I replaced
my duel point distributor with a mallery eletronic? Thanks, Dan
From: Doug Prince, SoCal
Chapter Advisor: You do not need to run the factory ballast resistor if
you have gone to the Mallory electronic distributor BUT be sure you are running
12 volts to it from the ignition switch.
**********
How
big of a cheater slick can i put in a stock wheel well of a stock 1962 corvette?
thanks Bill

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Seven inches if the wheel off set is
zero.
**********
I have a 61 vette and just ordered a new light
switch. In looking at my old switch the plastic piece that goes on the switch
which holds all of the wires is broken and very damaged. I desperately need one
of these and have not been able to find one anywhere. Do you have any
suggestions on where I may find one of these?
-Harold
From:
Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:
Ask them if the just the plastic connector for the wiring harness they make is
available.
Lectric Limited makes the complete wiring harness that can be purchased from
most Corvette parts vendors.
Be very careful in removing the wire terminals from the connector.
Each one has an integral retainer tab that is if broken or badly
deformed will make retention in the connector block difficult.
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
**********
From Gary, trying to buy a 1960, could a low vin 100300 have the vin on the
door pillar or were they all on the steering column, also is there any way to
trace back on these 12 digit vins, do you know if someone would have a picture
of the vin frame location or possibly some reference points.
thanks Gary

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Gary
1960 Corvette vin tag was located on the driver door jam until aprox serial #
3000. After that it was spot welded to the steering column in the engine
compartment.
Don't know what you mean by tracing back the vin, but your car is the 300th
1960 built with a build date of 9-16-59.
The vin is stamped twice on the top of the drivers side outside frame rail in
the area aprox below the seat cushion. Using sandpaper, light and mirror you
may be able to read it. Good luck.
Chip Werstein
**********
Does someone have pictures on how the
dash wiring is routed with the clips that hold the wiring harness?
-Athur
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Advisor:
Consult the 1962 assembly manual section 12, sheets 4.00, 6.00 and 12.00. Not
great, but it's the best we have.
Chip Werstein
**********
Hi
I am restoring a
1960 corvette for a friend of mine and was wondering how to remove the 4
tumblers in the glove box lock cylinder? I need to code the key to make new
keys. The guy that owned this car before him matched the ign key to the doors!
The doors,trunk and glove box have the same keys. All of those are keyed wrong
also. The only way I can get the right key code is from the glove box lock.
How do I get the tumblers out of the lock cylinder that seemed to be punched
on both sides of the tumblers inside the lock cylinder? The code on the lock
cylinder is 8591. Went to a dealer and he gave me a no.out of the code book
but not the last no. 55533? Is the last no. a 2 or 3? And do I need only
4no.s or 6? Please help me if you can. Not sure if my friend is a member or
not. Thnks. Gary
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Gary,
I find your question a bit confusing so let me start this way. All C-1
Corvettes had one key which fit the ignition, glove box, doors and trunk. The
lock codes were 4 numbers.
I sounds to me like the glove box and trunk need to be matched to the ignition
and doors. I suggest you send the glove box and trunk locks along with your
ignition key to Jessers Classic Keys 330-376-8181 to see if he can match
everything up for you. You may find the original code on the ignition and door
locks. Might be 8591, might not.
Sorry if I didn't understand your question correctly.
Chip Werstein
**********
My name is George. I am a member of SACC and have been for many
years. I own a
1960 Corvette with a soft top and a hardtop. Recently, I
had a new soft top
installed and now I am having a great deal of
problems having the top lowered
far enough into the rear compartment to
close the top lid! It was always a
tight fit before but now I am nearly
damaging the soft top when I try to close
the lid. Is there a way to get
the soft top LOWER into the rear compartment to
be able to close the lid
easily? I've owned this car for 30 years and there's
always some
adjusting to do to fix a problem. My 1957 Chevy Convertible top
has an
instruction sheet that tells you to fold-in, or pull-out, the top
cover,
BETWEEN top bows, as you lower, then fold over the top on TOP of the
completely lowered top. This procedure compacts the whole top assembly
so
the top will fit completely in the rear compartment. The 1960
Corvette rear
compartment space is crazy-small, compared with the '57
though. With the
latest soft tops, the vinyl material seems a bit more
STIFF and would seem to
cause more difficulty in trying to FOLD-IN to
gain more compactness!
Any
suggestions? I am 'game' to learn some new tricks!!
Thanks for anything you can
offer to help!
George
From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
George,
I would take it back to the installer and have him fix it. If that is not an
option.............
1. remove the seat backs to assess the convertible top frame brackets
2. put the top down
3. loosen the 4 nuts that hold the frame tension arms to the mounting brackets
(the inner brackets)
4. gently push each side of the top down into the well. The tension arm
brackets should move down and to the rear slightly
5. tighten the nuts
6. carefully put the top in the up position making sure it doesn't hit the
deck lid or anything else on the way up.
CAUTION......this adjustment will effect the top frame fit over the side
windows, the header fit at the windshield, the rear bow clearance at the deck
lid when in the up position as well as the stacking height of the top in the
top well. The top frame adjustments should have been completed before the
material was installed on the top frame. It is very difficult if not
impossible to realign a top frame once the material is in place. Sometimes
this fix works, many times it doesn't. Please be aware you may cause more harm
than good.
Chip Werstein
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter advisor:
George: One of my 62's (in 1974) came with the original softop, and it was
still useable, so I used it for many years until it finally tore. When I
folded it down into the top compartment, it practically fell into place and
the lid was easy to close. I replaced it with an inexpensive service
replacement top that I paid $50 for at the Pomona Swap Meet. This top is
harder to fold down into the compartment, but offers little difficulty in
closing the lid. I do my own convertible top installations.
The problem you are having is that the major reproduction top supplier (Al
Knoch) is using a material that is much thicker (at
least twice) than the original material, and that is why it is difficult to
compress the folded top into the top compartment. I still have some scraps
of the original material and it is, literally, paper thin. Al is in a bind
on this. Think about it. If he were to accurately reproduce the original
thin material, then the competition would compare their heavier material
with it and advertise that Al's tops are made of inferior flimsy material,
and Al would lose sales of tops. The only way you could get Al to change
would be for NCRS to deduct originality points when judging the tops that
are too thick. Al would love that because then everyone having their cars
judged would have to buy a new top. He has done this many times in the
past. His first tops had a sewn in rear window with no logo or date code,
the wrong grain and the wrong binding grain. Gradually, one by one, he
fixed these these things and sold a whole lot of tops in the process. I
waited to buy mine until he fixed everything, because I knew what needed
fixing. His current tops look completely correct. I have tried to get
NCRS to fix their judging manuals many times and always got nowhere.
One last point with the reproduction issue, and that is that the original
logo and date code were heat stamped into the rear window. The last tops I
bought from Al, the logo and date stamp were cold stamped into the window.
The rear window plastic has a "memory", and after a few years, the logo and
$50 date stamp completely disappears! He will do it right if you insist
when you order the top. It is virtually impossible to remove a top fabric,
return it to him, and have him do the logo and date over, and then reinstall
the top. I talked to him about this, and he understands.
Your only solution here is to push the top down as hard as you can and then
slam the lid. It helps to do this on a hot day. Never
fold the top down on a cold wintery day, no matter what it is made of
(except 100% cloth tops). The staples will pull out of the tacking strips
and the top or rear window may tear. The main interference is with the ends
of the header, and there is no adjustment here. Do not fool with the top
frame adjustments. Then nothing will fit when you raise the top.
Larry Pearson
**********
Dear Sirs:
I sent in my membership application form and my Money Order in US funds on
February 26th and await my documentation.
My question is: For my 1961 Corvette, what is the correct height from the
ground to the top of the wheel wells in both front and back ?
I want to ensure that the car is riding at the correct height. I look
forward to hearing from you.
Thanks and look forward to my membership.
David
R.

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Section O of the Corvette Servicing
Guide ST-12 gives and excellent overview of the Corvette ride heights. It
can be ordered from Helm, Inc.
**********
Hi
My name is Ken and I will soon have my 62 Corvette
back from restoration. We are getting ready for the paint in just a couple of
days and I need to know:
What color is the under the Hood, Trunk and Convertible
Top Compartment supposed to be painted? I think the hood and trunk are black,
but have no idea about the Convertible top's compartment. Is it Black too or
painted the same color as the car's body. I want my car to look completely
stock and have all as original as I can possibly do. Car was originally and
will be Roman Red. Also, is there a way to trace my cars origin? I was told
this car was originally purchased for James Gardner's (Not James Garner) but a
different famous actor's wife as a gift. I'd like to know if there is anyway
to verify that? Also my car's original motor is gone and the numbers on the
327 in it show it is from 1964. I was also told that the motor had blown and
was replaced under warranty in 1964. This is the only thing that keeps it
from being totally matching numbers. So if there is a way to verify this,
it would help with it's originality as I was told, if I can verify this, it
would still be considered numbers matching.
I certainly appreciate your help and consideration. I
also plan on joining as soon as I officially have this great car on the
road...hopefully by months end.
Best Regards,
Ken
From:
Brad Bean, SACC
Vice President:
Ken,
Congratulations on the near completion of your 1962 Corvette.
Unlike today, in 1962 most new car warranties were for 12 months or 12,000
miles, whichever came first. Therefore, it's possible but unlikely the warranty
covered replacement of a '62 Corvette engine in 1964 (unless the car was not
originally sold/titled until 1963). Sorry, but unless you have documenting
paperwork showing this, matching numbers will be almost impossible to
substantiate.
Regarding the car's former owners... again unless you have documenting paperwork
(copies of the different titles), the car's lineage is almost impossible to
prove. GM does not retain production or sales records this far back. If you do
not have these, the place to start would be to contact the person you purchased
the car from and see if they retained any documentation. If not and the car has
been registered in the same state for some time, you can use the VIN # to apply
for it's history from the state's Department of Transportation, Vehicle
Registration Division. If successful at finding former owner titles, and they
have not moved since ownership, you can attempt to contact them, personally.
Paint is an easier question...
In 1962 the underside of the hood (along with entire engine compartment) were
painted flat black "Duco" lacquer.
Starting with 1961, the Corvette's folding top and trunk compartments were
painted the same as the "primary" exterior body color. In 1960 and before, they
were painted to match the car's interior.
Looking forward to having you join SACC and seeing your completed 1962!
Good Luck!
**********
I HAVE A 61 CORVETTE AND THE CONVERTIBLE TOP IS SAGGING IN
THE MIDLE ON THE LEFT SIDE. The right side is fine and no sagging. I tried
the adjustment on the left side behind the seat and it did not help any.
Suggestions appreciated.
From:
Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor:
The answers I am giving you are illustrated on Figure 72 on page 1-32 of the
official Chevrolet shop manual for all C1 Corvettes, Corvette Servicing
Guide, Publication ST-12. If you don't have this publication, I advise
you to get a copy from any Corvette parts supplier.
The two top side roof rails (front and rear) tie together and pivot with a
large slotted head screw in the middle. The height of this pivot point is
controlled by the Link (Rear Control) as illustrated in Figure 72. To raise
this pivot point to make it straight, loosten the two bolts that hold this
Link to the bracket that attaches to the large vertical steel support
bracket. Unlatch the top header from the windshield frame (both sides).
Raise the top header about 2 inches above the windshield frame. Push the
pivot point up until it is as straight as you want it. While holding the
pivot point straight, tighten the two bolts that hold the Link to its
bracket. Latch the top header to the windshield frame, if you can. If it
won't latch, shightly loosen the two bolts enough so you can latch the top
header to the windshield frame. Go back and forth until you get it right.
Your real problem might be caused by the forward roof rail being bent at the
pivot point. This happens when, due to a lack of lubrication at the point of
the large slotted head pivot screw, the front side rail bends when you try to
lower or raise the top. In extreme cases this forward side rail will actually
break in two. Be careful that this doesn't happen. If it is bent, you may
have to remove it to straighten it or weld it if it breaks. Keep all joints
on your top frame lubricated using 30 W engine oil. Service replacement parts
should be available from Corvette Central.
Larry Pearson
From:
Max Brockhouse, SACC President: Could it be that
your windshield is leaning back too far. If their is a gap between the glass
and rubber weather stripping at the bottom of the windshield, your top will
not fit either.
Max Brockhouse SACC President
**********
Here's the deal. I bought a (formerly) auto car for $500 that had been used
for drag racing and brought it back from the dead.
Years ago I welded the clutch cross shaft support onto the frame in what
thought was the right spot.
I was close.
I have the engine out for it's third rebuild and would like to cut this thing
off and put it in the right place.
You may have guessed I'm a backyard guy, but enthusiastic.
Not much on that old beast is original but 188,000 miles will do that to ya.
Thanks for any help.
P.S. I'm not much of a joiner, but I'll give your ORG a look see.
Max
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor:
maxudog: I assume that you are trying to convert a Powerglide 1960 Corvette
to a 4-speed car and there is nothing there and you are referring to the the
measurement given in the Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM). The
28.06 inch measurement is from "C/L of Gauge Hole" to the 3723607 Bracket Assy
(Frame Bracket). I don't think that anyone alive knows where this Gauge Hole
was. The factory probably used a jig to locate the Frame Bracket, and no one
has that fixture. So you will have to "eyeball" the location of the Bracket
on the frame. It shouldn't be that hard to do. Mount the 3723603 Bracket to
the bellhousing with two bolts as shown. Then mount the 3732881 Cross Shaft
over the ball on this bracket after placing one 3743307 spacer (a thick felt
washer that acts as a seal between the end of the Cross Shaft and the bracket)
over the ball. Then install a second 3743307 spacer over the ball on
the Frame Bracket, insert the ball into the other end of the Cross Shaft and
set the Frame Bracket on the frame. Take a carpenter's square and adjust the
Frame Bracket as necessary fore or aft so that the Cross Shaft is at right
angles to the 3723603 Bracket. The height of the Frame Bracket is not
adjustable. Mark the location on the frame with a crayon and weld the Frame
Bracket in place to the frame.
There is a second much smaller bracket (3723786) that is welded to the frame
and acts as an attachment to the frame for the large 3744159 Over Center
Assist Spring via a 3720152 hook. This spring reduces the foot pressure
needed to depress the clutch pedal when using a three finger Borg & Beck type
pressure plate, which your car came with. If you are using a diaphgram type
pressure plate, this assist spring may not be needed. The 1963 Corvette went
to a diaphgram pressure plate and this assist spring was not used. This
Assist Spring bracket centerline is 5.32 inches back from the Frame Bracket
centerline. Make the measurement and weld the bracket in place as shown in
the AIM illustration.
All parts should be available from Corvette Central.
Larry Pearson
**********
I have a 54 vette and I'm certain the powerglide in it is not the correct
one. After purchasing several books for hundreds of dollars and months of
research I cannot find the definitive answer as to the correct casting number
for a 1954 corvette powerglide. Can you help me with this issue.

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:
Hi Duke,
According to my books and my '54, all 1954 Vette's had a cast iron
Powerglide cases which was the same as the passenger car except for the shift
lever location and the fill pipe length which was much shorter (about 6"). The
casting codes all began with a "C" followed by the mo. (1-12) and the day
(1-31). Ex.- C II9 is January 19, 1954.
The first about 1,100 Powerglide's were P/N 3709676 and the last about 2,300
were P/N3713604.
Hope this helps,
Bruce Fuhrman
**********
Gentlemen,
I am not a member of your organization. However,
I am wondering if it is possible to remove the PowerGlide transmission, 1954
Corvette, without pulling the engine.
That is, do you think a transmission shop could
do this if the car is put up on a lift ??
I know that there is very little clearance for
transmission movement down there.
My fear is that the vehicle's finish might get
damaged if the engine/transmission assembly is pulled as a unit.
I had new seals put in the transmission 15 years
ago when the engine & transmission were out of the car. The car was repainted
at the time and has not been driven much since then.
Thanks very much for any information or guidance
you can provide.
Jim

From: Ken Amrick, SACC Publications Editor:
Are you sure it must be removed? Sometimes repairs can be made without
removing the unit.
Have your shop check it out first because it's a lot of work removing and
installing the unit.
Removing the engine and trans as a unit would be very scary. If all that
weight accidently banged into the fiberglass firewall, you would do expensive
damage.
I've removed and replaced the Powerglide transmission on my '55 without
removing the engine. It's been a few years so I don't remember all the
details, but I think the exhaust pipes will have to be moved out of the way.
I have a '55 and it's a V8. I don't think that makes a difference though. The
back of the engine will have to be supported, but lowered slightly to get
enough clearance. It is a close fit around the X frame, but it will come
out. Ken
**********
Hi,
I’ve got a
1961 Corvette and want to know the correct color for painting the underside of
my hood and trunk lid.
thank you,
Rich
From:
Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:
For the 1961 Corvette, the "hood pannel inside" was to have been painted
"flat black Duco (lacquer)".
Starring with a small number of late '60 Corvettes and all '61 Corvettes...
the entire trunk compartment, as well as underside of trunk lid was painted the
same as the car's primary body color.
This is verified on page 403 of Noland Adams' "The Complete Corvette
Restoration & Technical Guide - Vol. 1; 1953 Through 1962" If you are restoring
a 1961 Corvette, this book is well worth the investment.
Good luck!
Brad Bean
**********
Hello,
I'm a new member! I've been waiting for my 1958 front bumpers to come back from
the plating shop and I've been going thru the re-installation process and
wondering about the bumper grommets. Are the mounting bolts for the bumpers
tightened from the underside and then the rubber grommets punched thru the
bracket window towards the front of the car? Does the smaller outside dimension
of the gasket face the front of the car (to make it easier to push thru and
position)? It seems simple but I've been giving this way too much thought...any
help would be appreciated!
Thanks, Tom
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal, Chapter Advisor:
Tom: The rubber seal that installs in the "bracket window" should be
installed over the bumper bracket and the lip on the seal installed into the
edge of the fiberglass opening. The seal has a slit cut into it top to bottom
and shorter slits cut on the top and bottom to allow it to easily slip over
the bumper bracket. Install the seal first before attempting to install the
bumper bolt through the bumper bracket and into the bumper. Use your fingers
to start the bumper bolt threading into the bumper. Use an end wrench,
preferably one with a ratchening box end, to tighten this bumper bolt. Before
completely tightening this bolt, install the side bolt along with the rubber
pad (goes between the bumper and the fiberglass outside surface), the
steel spacer sleeve (goes over the bolt from the inside of the fender and ends
up sandwiched between the bumper backside and the rear bumper bracket), and
steel "U" shims as necessary. See page 11-5 of the official Chevrolet C1 shop
manual Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12, to see how this
is done. The steel spacer sleeve typically rusts away and must be replaced if
it is gone. You can make your own out of steel water pipe or buy a
replacement from Corvette Central. After both bolts are started, tighten them
up so that the bumper bar is exactly centered between the
fiberglass body extensions above and below it. I advise you to apply
Lubriplate grease on the threads of both bolts before installing them to keep
them from rusting in place.
Larry Pearson
**********
ANY INFO ON THIS SEAT BELT BUCKLE WE TALKED ABOUT A FEW WEEKS AGO? IT'S OFF
A 62--SERIAL # 20867S100540--TO REFRESH--MY QUESTION ,IS THIS BUCKLE WITH THE
ROUND RECESS CUT INTO IT CORRECT BECAUSE ALL THE BUCKLE'S I'AM SEEING DO NOT
HAVE THIS RECESS CUT,THEY ARE FLAT! -IF IT IS CORRECT DOES A DECAL GO IN THAT
RECESS?----THANKS,MIKE
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Mike,
I have never seen a seat belt buckle like the one you have. All 62 Corvettes
used a flat buckle and on early cars like yours ( # 540 ) the buckle would
have been painted interior color. Corvette Central sells very nice
reproduction seat belt assemblies at a reasonable price.
Chip Werstein
**********
Good Evening,
I am switching to 205 or 215 radial tires and would like to
know what alignment specs. I should go by?
Thanks,
Bill
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Bill,
Use the factory alignment specs for your car on both bias ply and radial
tires. I like 215-75-R15 tires on the stock 5" rims. Coker makes wide whites
that size in both BF Goodrich and Coker brand. No major manufacturer makes
that size today except in an SUV tire. I recently replaced the tires on my 62
and ended up buying 205-75-R15 Goodrich TA Radials and turned the letters in.
They were $100 each vs $260 each from Coker. I don't like the size as well
because they are about 1.5 inches shorter than the original 670-15's and makes
my 3.55 gear feel like 4.11's. But they look good.
Chip Werstein
**********
DEAR SIRS, I JUST SENT IN MY MEMBERSHIP FORM AND CHECK LAST WEEK. COULD YOU
TELL ME THE GM PART # THAT IS STAMPED ON THE 1962 REAR SHOCKS, I’ AM
GETTING PART # 3197611- IS THIS CORRECT? THANKS, MIKE
From: Chip Werstein,
SoCal Advisor:
Mike,
Original 1962 standard equipment shocks have a stamped part number and date
code They are painted gloss black and have smooth bodies....not spiral. Fronts
5552976 and rears 555593. An example date code wood be 4 D 62 which indicates
4th week April, 1962.
Chip Werstein
**********
Hi,
My name is Jay and I am in the process redoing the 4 speed shifter on my 1961
Vette. Can you help me find a diagram of the shifter?
Thanks,
From: Larry Pearson,
SoCal Chapter Advisor:
Jay: I looked everywhere and could not find a blow-up illustration showing
exactly how all the parts in the shifter go together. My illustrated
1972 Chevrolet Corvette parts book sold all the pieces that made it up, but
did not show an exploded view of all the pieces and how they go together. It
showed arrows pointing to the pieces in a completely assembled shifter. If
you take yours apart, take digital pictures of the pieces coming out so you
can get them back in the correct order and orientation. There is no need
to take it apart unless you have to. You can lubricate it from to top with
30W engine oil. Nobody services all the pieces that make up the shifter body,
but Corvette Central sells a complete shifter, less rods, for about $400. If
you can find the source of the reproduction shifter, maybe you can buy
individual pieces. The "T" reverse lockout handle assembly with spring is
sold separately by Corvette Central.
Corvette Central services the rods that connect to the transmission shifting
levers and the anti rattle spring that connects a small stud sticking out the
side of the shifter arm to a small bracket secured to the center bolt on the
bottom plate that the ball on the bottom of the shifter rod slides in. One of
the problems with this shifter design is shifter "buzz" caused by driveline
vibrations and slop caused by wear or missing pieces in the shifter assembly.
To minimize this "buzz", make shure everything is tight and all
the anti-rattle d