Technical Help from the Solid Axle Corvette Club

*Note:  It has come to my attention that Chip Werstein has passed away.  When we created this page to help
anyone who has a tech question regarding a solid axle Corvette, Chip was right there from the beginning.  His answers helped
many, many people, whether they were club members or not.  Chip, you will be missed!

To submit a technical question regarding a 1953 to 1962 Corvette, simply email
sacctech@solidaxle.org

*Note: If you are using an Apple iPhone, you will have to hold down on the blue letters. Then a box comes up and you 
will need to select "New Mail Message".  You should be fine then, your email question will go to it's intended mailbox.

*In the subject box you need to put "sacctech/ (your SACC
membership number)".  Example: sacctech/1234
If you are not a member, your question will not be excluded, however, it won't get priority.

Disclaimer:
Our officers enjoy answering questions about your Corvette. Please keep in mind before asking questions that we are not qualified or certified to diagnose problems you may be experiencing with your Corvette. It is recommended that an A.S.E. (Automotive Service Excellence) certified automotive technician diagnose the vehicle for you. This way you get an accurate diagnoses on the problem and an understanding of the parts necessary to remedy the problem.  The experts render opinions.  Remember, the Solid Axle Corvette Club does not endorse any supplier, manufacturer, or place of repair.

Keep in mind that members enjoy a wealth of information via the SACC quarterly magazine, On Solid Ground.  Here are some of the topics contained in the Spring, 2008 issue:

-Insulate Your Solid Axle

-1956 Goodyear Corvette

-Harmonic Balancer Re-Install

-Six Cylinder Corner

-Will We Need NOS Engine Oil for out Old Cars?

-The Willet Run Garage

-The Marketplace - Member Classified

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06/29/2022

Suggestions for Alignment setting?..
Thanks
Larry

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Larry,
The C-1 alignment article was published by Vette Magazine in their June 2002 edition. It was an article by Richard F Newton.
Michigan Chapter has a copy on our website, www.solidaxlecorvettemi.com.  
You may have to get our webmaster's permission on signing in, but that's easy.
The article is a pdf file. https://www.solidaxlecorvettemi.com/_files/ugd/0f0903_dd0ca5b654ea420bbc1d5ff55766753c.pdf
Same alignment works for both bias-ply and radials, but radials give a more stable ride.
I take a copy with me to the alignment shop so the tech will know how.
 
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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06/19/2022

Don





From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Don:  I am assuming that you are referring to the front left and right upper outer grille moldings.  These are chrome plated zinc metal die castings.  Corvette Central sells new replacement moldings.  Each of the four outer grille moldings have three 1/4-20 plated steel mounting studs threaded into them.  They attach to the fiberglass body from inside the fender with 7/16 inch steel hex nuts which thread onto the studs.  These mounting nuts are easily accessible without removing the front wheels if you turn the wheel in. 

It is very possible that your hex nuts are rusted onto the mounting studs, and trying to remove them will either break the mounting studs or cause them to unthread from the moldings.  If the studs break off close to the castings, you will have to drill them out, a very difficult procedure.  New replacement studs can be made from 1/4-20 bolts of an appropriate length by sawing the hex head off.  New 1/4-20 nuts are readily available from hardware stores.  Use 1/4 inch flat and lock washers under the mounting nuts.  Apply grease on the end of the studs before installing the nuts to prevent future rusting.

Larry Pearson

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06/14/2022

I purchased a restomod wonderbar radio for my 1959 corvette. I had a mobile tech come out and install it. Warranty on installation is over. It worked fine for awhile then just recently when I turn off the ignition to lock the radio stays on. The radio company did three bench tests and found nothing wrong with the radio. However, now it won’t turn off. I have to unplug it. Is it in the ignition switch wiring?

-David

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Probably an ignition switch problem.  The radio itself don't know whether you have the car running or not.  As long as it has power (12V) it will stay on, unless turned off manually with the Vol control knob.  The circuit should be a 14Ga. pink wire off the ign sw - to the fuse panel - 14 Ga Yellow, to the radio connector.  The Gas and Temp gauges are fed from the same Ign Sw terminal.  Does the gas gauge drop to 0 when you turn off the ignition?  If so the radio is wired to an incorrect source (12V).  If NOT the ignition switch is faulty.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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06/10/2022

Hi:

Anyone the San Fernando Valley, or L.A do fabulous minor body work and painting?

Joe

Also,  my Electronic Power Assist Steering system has aggravated the cars tendency to wander and reduced its ability to re-center from turns.  I’m told this might be remedied by adding caster to the upper A-arm pivot and installing a second shim.  Can you tell me if adding shims is a time consuming job or a simple one please?

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:  Joe,
The Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12 shows a clear picture of the 3733477 shims, which are the tapered aluminum spacer that sets caster on C-1's.
They are located between the front frame rail and the front suspension crossmember. After 60 years both shims could be deteriorated due to galvanic action if you live near the ocean.

To replace them, the front crossmember assembly must be unbolted from the frame (8 bolts on each rail) and dropped down far enough to clean & paint the affected areas and reassemble with new shims & fasteners. Be careful of the gas & brake lines if you do this.

However, I suspect that the accumulated backlash/looseness in the steering system may be your biggest issue.
You need to check for looseness in the steering gearbox, the two drag link bushings, third arm bearing, tie-rod ends, kingpins & the wheel bearings all of which are simpler fixes before you opt for the major surgery.

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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06/02/2022

I have 61 Corvette and all four hub caps keeps moving. It will move enough that it would bend the valve stems. I rest all four hub caps take the car out for a ride, come home and have to reset hub caps again..

                       I do have the correct rims for the car with four nubs on them. The wheel cover only two delineated spaces on each hub cap. I was told I need four on each hub cap. Please advise……Glenn

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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05/20/2022

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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05/12/2022

New member here # 5130. 1960 model.  I have two assembly manuals. Does anybody or anywhere is there an explanation of the numbers and letters in these books? My Mid America manual pg L71 has a 451247 screw. Is there footnotes for these? Thanks, Jim

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  I have an original Chevrolet parts catalog for 1953 through 1973.  I show no reference to any Chevrolet part number 451247.  If you can describe the application, I can probably identify the screw if that's what you're looking for.

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05/07-2022

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  I put a canvas Al Koch top on my 54 in 2000. I’ve been very pleased with it.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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05/04/2022

Hi... I'm trying to find where and which direction a distributor heat shield goes on my car. As you well know, passenger side
bolted to exhaust manifold.
Any information you may lend will be greatly appreciated.  1959 2X4 Carbs.

Best,
Mike

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  The driver side mounts just like the passenger side - two tabs mounted to the inside bolts of the front and rear exhaust manifold mounting bolts. See photos.

Driver's shielding

Front side mount

Rear shielding

Corvette Central has a good illustration of the shielding and mounting hardware.  Pg95 - mounting brackets are identified as L-Brackets P/N 471125 (4 required)

Ffrom: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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04/08/2022

I am trying to find the location for the stamped numbers on the frames of my 1954 and 1962 Corvettes could you please help!

Chuck

From: Bruce Fuhrman, past Secretary of SACC: 

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03/23/2022

I am working a 59 frame off and am getting bac to body reassembly. Looking over the grill and eyebrow surrounds and the studs used to affix them to the body. Keen, corvette central and zip along with my original have various sizes of studs. The grill surround appears to use 2 inch long studs on the outer most “circumference” but when installed over 1” of stud is exposed. Is this correct?

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

(Discussion continued)

Thank you Jack, I just joined  SACC this afternoon. What im trying to verify is are the studs , 2 inch long correct.  When installed and hardware on they protrude about 1 inch  and appear too long. The Assembly manual shows same part number for all studs. But I have 3 lengths. Here is a picture of the upper grill surround for my 59 with the studs installed. 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Ronald - I have a 58 whose grill surround is original, and the mounting studs are long like those shown in your photo (approx. 2").

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03/08/2022

Hi, I Joined the SACC earlier this year #5112 and I’m looking forward to the club activities.  I just purchased a 1957 270 HP corvette this year.  The car was restored over a period of years finishing in about 2011.  After going through the NCRS judging process that concluded in 2013 the car was mostly stored in a climate controlled room and obtained about 130 miles since the restoration.  The car was started on a regular basis during storage.

I am now experiencing a starter issue.  When trying to start the engine i will get a whining noise from the starter.  The starter is not engaging the flywheel just spinning.  This may happen two, three times in a row and then it does engage and the engine will start.

Does this sound like a solenoid problem or could it be the starter drive that is attached to the solenoid.  My thought is since this starter was rebuilt perhaps 12 to 15 years ago and only 130 miles on it perhaps it is dirty or needs lubrication?  Or is it a typical solenoid fault?

Thanks
Eugene

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  I agree with Verle, however, to get the solenoid to kick in you have to apply 12V to the solenoid terminal marked "S".  This terminal is connected to your ignition switch.  The battery cable attached to the large terminal is always hot.  When the solenoid is energized it connects the Battery cable to the starter and pushes the starter gear (bendix) into the flywheel.  If the starter is spinning then the solenoid is operating.  BUT the solenoid also pushes the bendix gear into the flywheel to roll the engine.  The Bendix gear is a spring loaded and threaded assembly.  Normally the starter gear is on the end of the Bendix assembly (held there by a spring).  When the solenoid is activated the Bendix assembly is pushed into the flywheel, with the gear at it's end, it engages the flywheel.  When the engine starts, the speed of the flywheel is greater than the rotational speed of the starter and the gear is extracted because it is on a threaded shaft that basically unscrews it from the forward position (disengages the flywheel).  Once the starter is rested - a spring pushes the starter gear to the START position (end of the shaft), ready for the next time you need to start the engine. If the spring that normally returns the starter gear is weak or broken the gear does not return to the START position, thus when you engage the starter the gear does not engage the flywheel.  The whole Bendix assembly or the spring itself can be replaced.  I hope this helps - this is not a complicated repair.  Getting the starter off is probably the hardest part of the process.

PS: You can engage the solenoid without suffering the violent torque of the starter by simply applying 12V to the starter terminal (marked "S") without applying 12V to the battery terminal.

Follow-up:

This is a follow up question regarding the starter not engaging the flywheel and just whining.  I pulled the starter and i have it strapped to my bench.  When I put 12 volts to the large top post and ground the starter then put 12 volts to the s terminal the starter gear works fine.  The solenoid shoots out the gear and spins every single time.  It is not
acting like it did when the starter was bolted to the engine.  I looked at the flywheel and all of the ring gears look good.  Could this be due to no load on the starter and not a very robust bench test?  I would hate to crawl back under and install back on the engine and find out it still needs to be rebuilt.

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Eugene - does the drive gear spin freely in one direction and lock up in the other ?  The drive gear is suppose to spin freely in one direction only.  The large hub just behind the gear is a ratchet.  A Bendix assembly (or starter drive assembly) is only about $50 - I might replace it just to see what happens.  Good Luck - John

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Larry Pearson







From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Loose Starter bolts - the bolts would have to be VERY loose to cause the starter to not even try to mesh with the flywheel

Bad Bendix linkage - Possibly.  This, however, is a very simple linkage - i've never seen it fail.  If so check the pivot pin.  if it's missing or not.

Bad Bendix Gear - Probably.  Its a common problem - for the Bendix (not the solenoid) spring to fail.  This will cause the starter gear to "not return" to the start position, thus not engage the flywheel when the starter kicks.

                                    If this is the problem - repeated attempts to start the engine will eventually engage the flywheel because the starter/Bendix shaft is threaded such that a sudden spin of the starter will thrust the gear into the flywheel

Bad flywheel ring gear - Again possibly but not probably.  If the ring gear is bad - repeated attempts will not cause the starter to engage.  You have to bump the engine to a different flywheel position like you describe.

I have attached a photo exposing the Bendix assembly.  Note the spring between the solenoid wishbone yoke and the starter gear.  This is the spring that fails and causes the starter gear to fail to engage the flywheel,  You can also see the thread on the starter drive shaft that causes the gear to retract when spun by the flywheel when the engine starts.

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02/24/2022

*Joining is easy!  On our website simply click on "Online New Member Application". 

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02/08/2022

Looking for a qualified mechanic to service my 54 Corvette. 

I live in downtown Dallas. The car will need to be trailered. 

Contact information. 

Anthony 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  (*Note: Please be aware of the disclaimer above).  DMS Corvette Shop in Garland.  972-494-6900.  I own a 54 and he's the only mechanic I'll allow near it except myself.

PS: highly recommend association with the local chapter of the solid axle club.  Wealth of knowledge and support.

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From: Bruce Fuhrman, Past Club Secretary: 

01/20/2022

Hello, I am trying to figure out if this tach drive unit is a gm part or a repro? If it is a real gm part can you give me an idea of it'svalue?  It cam as extra parts with a 1958 that I bought in 1992. Mike

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  This appears to be a GM unit.  The markings are different than the unit on my 58 but I don't think that is significant.  You can purchase new drive units for approximately $110.00

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12/24/2021

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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12/04/2021

Jack

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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12/1/2021

I have a question about 57 Corvette cross member bolts and some others on the car.    The Frame was painted separate from the cross member, as I understand it, and thus some of the cross members were painted a more shiny color than the frame and was assembled to the frame as it went along.  With that being said how would the bolts have been painted that hold it on to the frame?  Second there are several parts that were assembled to the frame after it was painted like the axle bumpers rear springs just to mention a few.  So were all these bolts painted or not or just some of them and where would I person find a list of what was and wasn’t painted. 

Thanks a lot for your help.

Kermit

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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11/26/2021

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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11/23/2021

I have a 57 I am doing.  Are the bolts that hold the Front Cross Member and several other parts like the motor mounts painted.  I have never seen a none restored car and know that some of the cross members were painted gloss and some weren’t so they were installed after the frame was painted thus my question about the bolts.  Also stuff like the rear spring mounts to the fame and shackle bolts and nuts just things like that because they were installed after the frame was painted I think or were they?  You know upper/lower A arm bushings and things of that nature that was put on after the frame paint.  I am pretty sure the grease zerks were not painted because I am old enough to remember that as I worked in a gas station and greased them.  Got any ideas?

Thanks,

Kermit

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

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10/30/2021

Hello,
>
>
> I have a 62 corvette, 300 hp with a t-10 4 speed trans.  Recently, it started to grind slightly when I shift from 1st to 2nd.  After the car warms up it doesn’t do it.  What do you suggest?  I’m thinking to change the oil to see if that will fix it.  What transmission oil do you recommend?
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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10/25/2021

Attached is a photo of the hubcaps that were on the '54 Corvette that I recently purchased and I know they are not Corvette hubcaps but wondered if anyone can identify the  year, make and model that these were originally used on? I am guessing a 50's vintage Chevrolet?  Thanks for your help, John

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Photos of the first Corvettes off the production line in 53 exhibit a hubcap very close to that in your photo.  They are believed to be that of a 53 Bel Air.  Investigate passenger car (Bel Air) caps around your year.  I have attached an article from "The Real Corvette (pg29)" FYI.

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Where are you located?  I recently purchased 58 Charcoal acrylic lacquer from English Color in Plano, Texas.  They had to import it from their shop in Houston - but they still supplied it.

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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09/21/2

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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09/14/2021

Richard







From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Richard:  You don't say what type of radiator fan you are using.  If you are using a water pump mounted fan, the notched (forward) sway bar should not be a problem.  It would offer more fan clearance than a straight sway bar would.  But if you are using an electric fan mounted on the radiator, then the forward notch would be a problem.  The forward notched sway bar was necessary due to the considerable length of the six cylinder engine.  When the small block V-8 was introduced, the sway bars were made straight, because this engine is much shorter than the six.  It is interesting to note that the better heat rejection of the V-8 (due to the much shorter path from the exhaust valve to the exhaust port with the new V-8 cylinder head design, resulting in less exhaust heat being transferred to the coolant) allowed Chevrolet to use a smaller radiator for the V-8 in sedans.  The V-8 also weighed less then the six, and cost less to manufacture.  In 1955, I am told that it cost Chevrolet about $65 to manufacture a 265 V-8 engine, exclusive of overhead costs.  They should have charged less for the V-8 than the six, but they didn't,

In answer to your question, any 1956-62 sway bar is straight.  They should be easy to acquire.

Larry Pearson

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   Hi, I have a 61 Corvette 283 Engine w/ DUAL Quads 245 HP. What type of gas should I use in this engine.

I have been running a premium fuel w/ Lucas Octane Booster. Can I switch to 87 Octane and run Octane Booster ?

Or is there anything better that you can recommend.

Thanks,

  Glenn

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Glenn,

I'm going to assume you mean you are using unleaded Premium 93 Octane 10% ethanol gasoline with octane booster in your car. 

Around home, I use 100% recreational 90 octane unleaded gasoline in my 1960 230HP 283 that has with same compression ratio as yours and it runs fine.

 

Your car's components were not designed to deal with the corrosive effects of ethanol long term.

On long trips like the recent convention trip, I had to use the Premium 93 gas and filled up on the good stuff when we got home. 

 

However, if if your engine has not had hardened valve seats installed in the stock heads, you probably need to add lead substitute as well. 

 

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC








From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

 Glenn:  I own a 1960 Corvette with the base 230 hp engine, and it is completely original and has never been rebuilt.  This is the exact same engine as the 245 hp engine, except that it has a single 4 barrel carburetor.  Both engines have a 10.5 compression ratio.  I live in California, which has the worst gasoline in the country.  Premium is 91 octane and $5.00+ per gallon.  My 60 runs just fine with the 91 octane gasoline and no octane booster.  Occasionally I add a lead substitute to protect the valve seats, but I don't think that this is necessary for the low performance engines.

If your engine is original or has been rebuilt to original specs and is properly timed, you should have no problem using 91 or better octane pump gasoline.  If it pings when driven hard, retard the timing.  I have a 62 with 11.25 compression and have had no luck with octane boosters.  I have found that 1/2 quart of lead additive per 10 gallons of premium boosts the 91 octane to an acceptable level for this engine.  Lead additive is available on the internet.

Larry Pearson

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  You did not say whether your motor runs in a manner that it needs octane booster.  That is important to the question.  The stock configuration was 9.5 compression with flat top pistons.  The combustion chambers were small on the stock heads and 0.016" head gaskets were used.  Do you know whether the configuration is stock or was the motor rebuilt with 0.030 or thicker composite head gaskets? 

If you are getting pinging during acceleration, have you backed off on the timing?

We need more information and I am inclined to say your motor does not need anything special in the fuel.

With ethanol additive gasoline, I would use 1/2 oz. of ATF per gallon of gasoline.

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08/29/2021

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Probably a fused wire.  Start at the light switch and work your way back.

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08/21/2021

Tech Help,  September 2020 and April 2021 posts to your tech team and review of past posts were a valuable source to remove and install the speedo and tach with newly greased bearings on my 59.

Now I think the fuel pump failed.  Paragon no longer stocks the AC 4656 fuel pump as mentioned on this thread.  It seems it is no longer produced.   Does anyone have a source that still has one. I am leery about purchasing a reconditioned original on EBay.  Anyone have experience with rebuilding these pump?

Eric

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Larry Pearson








From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Also, You can get the car to run for long enough by pouring gas into the area where the metering rods are.  Then start the car and see if there is any flow from the disconnected fuel line.

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08/16/2021

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  The passenger seat on a 54 is not mounted to a frame.  The spring sets (bottom and back) mount directly to the floor and bulkhead of the car itself. I don't know of anywhere the brackets (more like clips) are shown.  If you can't find any references to help you - I can take a photo of mine and send it to you.  Good luck - John

From: Bruce Fuhrman, past club Secretary: 

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07/23/2021

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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07/15/2021

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Michigan Chapter SACC







From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Bruce:  You mention a 1961 service manual.  I have never heard of such a thing, except for the passenger cars.  The Chevrolet Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12 is the only official shop manual that Chevrolet produced for the C1 Corvettes, and it attempts to cover the entire 1953-1962 production run.  It is a "must  have" for all C1 Corvette owners who work on their cars.  If you don't have this manual, it is available as a reprint from all Corvette parts suppliers.  The radio antenna installation is covered on page 13-4. Figure 3.  Although this figure is supposed to apply to all C1 Corvettes, it actually is specifically for the 1961-62 Corvettes, which is exactly what you are looking for.

You don't say where you got this "correct" antenna.  What you have may actually be for a 1956-60 Corvette, which installs through a rounded fender top rather than the rather flat sloped fender top of the 1961-62 Corvettes.  The 1956 through 1960 antenna assembly is slightly longer than the 1961-61 because of the longer height in the trunk compartment, but it might work in your 1961 trunk.  Corvette Central sells the fender top hardware if you have the earlier setup.

I assume that your car originally had a radio installed by the factory and, therefore, that the hole in the fender top is in the correct location so everything in the trunk properly lines up.  All vertical mast antennas need a ground plane to work properly.  On metal car bodies, the car body is the ground plane.  On the Corvette, the frame is used as the ground plane, and this connection is provided by a copper strap that connects the antenna housing  to a bolt accessed through an access cover in the trunk that electrically connects to the frame, as shown in Figure 3.  Also the frame must be grounded to the engine block with the two heavy copper ground straps that connect the frame to the engine mounting bracket shown in Figure 6 on page 13-7.  On Corvettes, the engine block is the ground point for all electrical systems on the car.

Larry Pearson

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07/06/2021

Good Afternoon :

 I acquired a 1954 corvette 10 years ago. The vehicle did not have the original engine or transmission.
After many years of searching. I found an original 54 corvette engine and transmission.  I had the engine and transmission rebuilt.
The question that I am asking is the timing of the engine.  I have the beebee on the flyweight in line with the pointer. The distributor rotor on number 1 cylinder on the cap. When I crank the engine over and check the to see if the distributor rotor in on number 1 again it seems the it is off from the original setting.

Am I doing something wrong.?

Your help would be greatly appreciated

Thank you

Scott

From: Bruce Fuhrman, Past Secretary:  Hi Scott,

 Is the engine running? If not, there is something wrong. Be sure the compression is #1 and not exhaust. Do this by taking the sparkplugs out and checking the compression in #1. It may be the installed the distributor off by a gear?

If running-   I had a '54 and it had the original engine & transmission. During a transmission o'haul they could not locate the proper flywheel (the teeth were worn out) by the starter, so they reversed it! It worked out, BUT, I lost the timing mark! I simply used a Dwell meter to set the points and drove the car till there was no "ping" and used the Dwell meter again when replacing the points. The proper dwell is 40.5-47.5 degrees, and the timing is on the beebee.

Good luck,

Bruce Fuhrman

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  1- Rotate the engine until the timing pointer lines up with the BB or circle on the
flywheel.

2- Adjust the points for proper dwell.  Rotate the distributor until the points are on a high point of the distributor cam.  Adjust the points for a 0.16 gap (establishes an approximate setting)

3- Connect a ohm meter between the points feed to the coil and ground (disconnect from the coil).  When the points are closed the ohm meter should read 0 ohms.  Rotate the distributor until the points just open (ohm meter will jump to MAX ohms).  Lock down the Distributor.
4- Note where the distributor rotor is pointing - it should be pointing to No.1 plug terminal.

5- If you need to adjust the dwell you will have to re-adjust the timing.

Addendum to above answer.....

You are not looking for where the distributor rotor aligns with No.1 - you are looking for where the points break associated with No.1   

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

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06/25/2021

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

From:  Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter  VP: 

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06/22/2021

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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06/18/2021

  Does anyone make king pin kit with needle bearing instead of bushing.

                Also is a good thing to do ?

                Also on differential fill plug leaks ? Install new plug with gasket, someone total me to use copper gasket .

                Please advise.

                Regards,

                Glenn

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Glenn:  I finally got around to see if anyone manufacturers or sells a needle bearing king pin kit, and found nothing.  If it was available, Corvette Central would have it, and they don't.  The bushings will last longer than you will, as long as you grease them.  The factory recommends a 1000 mile interval for greasing all 22 grease fittings on your car's front suspension.  This is unreasonable, and I feel that you can safely go to a 2000 mile interval.  Be sure to grease all four inner fittings on the upper A-arms.  They are hard to see and access, but if you ignore them, the bushings will fail and are very difficult to replace.

The differential fill plug uses a leather gasket.  If you replace it and it still leaks, wrap the plug threads with Teflon tape and that should fix the leak.

Larry Pearson

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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06/17/2021

I am Chris and I have a ’61.  Thank you Verle for your suggestion with my tail light issue.  Still working on it.  My fuel gauge reads beyond full and does not change.  I heard from someone that it might mean the gauge is not grounded.  Any thoughts on how to check out my gauge?  Second question, what additive, if any, should I put in my tank when I fill up.  I have put 93 octane in it so far.  It is the original 283 engine.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

Verle






From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Chris:  On the subject of your tail light problem, the 1961 and 1962 Corvettes had their tail lights located low in the trunk where the sockets could be damaged by trunk items coming in contact with them.  In 1962, light gray plastic protective cones were placed over the four tail light plugs to protect them from damage.  These protective cones are reproduced, and I recommend that you purchase a set for your 1961.  

As to the damage that can occur to the in trunk part of the tail lamp assembly, each connector plugs into the tail light assembly and is retained by two plastic pins molded in to the sides of the plug-in socket.  If one of these gets broken off, the socket plug will become cocked in such a way that one of the two spring loaded contacts may not properly contact one of the bulb contacts.  In the worst case, the spring loaded contact may contact the grounded lamp housing, resulting in a blown fuse.  A broken off pin can be repaired without replacing the plug assembly.  You can drill a hole in the socket where the pin is missing and fabricate a plastic pin out of a plastic rod obtainable from hobby stores and use JB Weld to secure it in place.  Drill the hole slightly smaller than the plastic rod diameter to make a tight fit prior to JB Welding it in place.  You can even use a tooth pick.

The gas tank is grounded with a black 18 gauge wire that connects to the tail light ground wire in the rear wiring harness.  The engine block, not the frame, is the ground source for all electrical system in your car.  If this black ground wire somehow is not there or is an open circuit somewhere in the wiring harness, the proper way to ground the gas tank is to run an 18 gauge or larger wire from one of the sender screws down through the rocker panel area and up to the instrument housing where you should attach it to one of the 1/4 inch screws that attach the instrument housing to the metal structure, which is an excellent ground point.  All the electrical systems, the horns, the lighting, clock, and the instruments (except the radio and wiper motor, which have their own ground wires) connect to the engine block via a 12 gauge black with white stripe wire that connects to the driver's side upper rear rocker arm screw.  This ground wire must be in excellent shape and well connected to the rocker arm cover screw, or nothing in the car will operate properly, if at all.

When you finally get your gas gauge working properly using the original black gas tank ground wire, you will likely note that the gas gauge pointer moves to the right when the brakes are applied.  This is a result of a factory screw-up with the 1961 and 62 Corvettes. When they added the two additional tail lights, they neglected to use a larger ground return wire and stayed with the 18 gauge wire, which is inadequate for all those lights and the gas tank sender.  The resulting electrical imbalance results in the gas tank pointer moving when the brakes are applied.  The only way to fix this is to run a separate ground wire from the gas tank to the instrument housing as described above.

Larry Pearson

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06/06/2021

I am Chris and I just joined the solid axle corvette club.  I recently purchased a 1961 Corvette.  My original program was that the right blinker worked great but when I selected the left blinker, the green arrow on my dash came on but did not blink and the front white left blinker light came on but did not blink.  Same for the left rear lights.  From a blog someone told me that I likely needed to replace my turn signal flasher on my front driver’s side fuse box.  I found out from this blog where that fuse box was located….thank you very much Larry!!!  I bought the replacement flasher, installed it and it solved my blinker and brake light problems which was very helpful, especially in Texas since I have to get the car inspected before I can get my plates (I bought the car from a dealer in Minnesota).  However my new issue is that now the rear, left inside tail light does not come on with the running lights.  I had put a new bulb in it and both filaments look fine.  Any thoughts on my problem?  Thank you for any help.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Check the position of your turn signals.  Make sure it is in the neutral position.  These switches have a bad habit of moving slightly to one side (usually left turn).  It will not be enough to cause the blinker to engage - but it will turn off that tail light.

**********

06/03/2021

Can you tell me where the fuse box is on a 1961 Corvette?  I need to replace the turn signal flasher.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

05/30/2021

54 vette choke knob

Any tricks to removing choke cables and knob from on a 1954 vette? I plan to have the cables replaced. Thanks, Tex





From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  No trick - Loosen cables from the carbs, the knob attaches to the dash with a large nut on the back of the dash, loosen the nut and slide the choke cable assembly out of the carbs, firewall and dash.

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05/30/2021

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Look at the assembly manual for how they are mounted.  For a 1957, it is sheet J2.  The nut plates are installed from the bottom, not in the car.  The floor is flat where the nutplates are located.

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

Note: if you're having trouble locating your seat rails - slide the seat all the say back on the rails, set the seat frame in the car against the rear bulkhead.  
This gives you a full range of adjustment.  Make sure when slid forward the seat (cushion) does not interfere with the transmission hump.   This is adjusted by the side to side location of the seat.

**********

05/27/2021

I’m redoing the front suspension on my 1960 (5034).  My question is should I leave the original inner upper pivot shaft?  
What I have read it is the most important part of the job.  The new cap only goes on a few rotations and bogs down, the 
old caps spin right on.  What I can figure is it is a 3/4 by 11 can’t find a die to clean threads.  Also read where you 
can make the tool to thread new pivot shaft in with old shaft parts but see Paragon part number 10538 is a pivot shaft installer, 
is that for this pivot shaft?  I called their tech line and the guy was what does the catalog say, it doesn’t.  Thanks

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

That installation tool is not useful.  I have one that I did not use.   I used the lower outer shaft as a tool.  The bushing and pivot bolt are the same thread as the upper inner shaft.  Put the bushing on the outer shaft threads, screw the pivot bolt into the bushing until it contacts the end of the shaft and you have a tool to screws the shaft in with.






From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  If the old caps (nuts) thread on with no resistance but the new ones do - the new ones are of the wrong thread.  Don't force them.  Have you purchased a new pivot shaft yet - try the new nuts on the new shaft.  If the new shaft threads are different, they will not install in your original equipment.

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05/01/2021

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

**********

04/25/2012

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

**********

04/14/2021

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Corvette Central and Al Knoch Interiors offer DVDs that show how to do this.  There are also U-Tube videos available, if you search C1 Dashpad Installation

**********

04/08/2021

In September 2020, your officers answered some questions about speedometer cables and bouncing speedometer needles on my 1959.  I also searched your posts for information on removing my speedometer and tachometer.  I have all the wires labeled, bolts removed but can’t figure out how to remove the wiper cable pull knob on the instrument panel.  Please advise.  Thank you.

  Eric

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Addendum from Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

03/29/2021

Was wondering if you could tell me if you can “interchange” channel selector “push buttons” from a 59 to a 62 Corvette Wonderbar radio. I have a 62 radio I need to make look like a 59. I understand the push buttons are made differently. Also, are the “Chrome Face Plates” interchangeable?  Thanks.

 Dennis.

From:  John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Ecklers Corvettes 800-327-4868 sells faceplate/bezel/pushbutton refurbish kits for 58/60 and 61/62 Corvette wonderbar radios.  Contact them to see if they are mechanically interchangeable.  

From Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Dennis,
Wonderbar knobs, push buttons & faceplate are different between 1959 and 1962 radios but functionally are all the same. Kits to convert or restore are commercially available from most Corvette vendors.
The link below is from Corvette Central so you can see what's available.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/radio/radio-rebuild/1959/?count=15
Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

03/27/2021

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: The clutch pedal travel is adjusted by lengthening / shortening the clutch push rod (847) that connects the cross shaft (709) to the clutch wishbone.(489K).  This is accomplished by screwing the push rod clevis (883) up or down the rod.  See attached drawing for reference numbers.  The shaking can be several things.  If it didn't shake before you had the work done, it shouldn't shake now.  If the clutch assembly (Disc and/or pressure plate is out of balance that will cause a shutter, but most replacement parts don't require balancing.  The crankshaft where the pilot shaft of the transmission is stabbed has a brass bearing or bushing.  If this was inadvertently removed and not replaced - you will get a violent shaking at all speeds and gears (common oversight).

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Also from John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Greg - you casually mentioned your clutch would stick when pressed to the floorboard.  This may not have been your major concern, but it is a problem that needs addressing, so here goes.  This can be caused by several things.  See the attached illustration: The return spring (630) on the cross shaft (709) is designed to give resistance to the pedal when you clutch.  As you continue to depress the pedal, this spring crosses the axis of the cross shaft and becomes an assist rather than a resisting force.  This is designed to allow you to relax a little when holding the clutch in at - say - a stop light.  1) If your clutch pressure plate springs are weak they may not overcome the return spring on your cross shaft, however, they would have to be very weak to cause this.  If this is your problem - replacing the clutch should solve this. More likely 2) the clutch return spring (630) attached to your cross shaft (709) is the problem.   Where the spring changes from a resisting force to an assisting force, as you depress the pedal, is adjustable.   The adjustment is made with the bracket (635).  It should never cause the pedal to stick down.  Several things may cause this 1) You have the wrong return spring (630).  This spring should be a 17 coil spring.  2) the return spring (630) attaches to the cross shaft bracket (635) by a link (636) which is about 1" long.  If this link is missing and the return spring (630) is connected directly to the bracket (635) it requires the return spring to be stretched further than it is designed to be, and will significantly increase its tension strength.  When the clutch is depressed to the point the return spring becomes an assist, the increased pull on the spring may become more than the pressure plate springs can overcome, and could cause the clutch to fail to return properly.  Check to verify you have a correct return spring and the attaching link is there.  Good luck - John

**********

03/25/2021

Hello, I recently placed the body onto a new frame. I did not personally remove the connections under the hood. Can you direct me to a schematic showing the connections and grounding straps for the 1962 corvette.

 Regards Mark

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapteer President: 

**********

03/09/2021

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

03/07/2021

I have a 1959 corvette and am trying to install the rear bow weather strip.  The weather strip has 2 sets of two holes at the latch positions, does the latch fit over the weather strip and the screws go thru it or are the holes in the weather strip just access holes to reach the latch screws.  Also is there a trick to getting the weather strip lip to stay on the rear bow so it can be glued or stapled?



From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Order of assembly - top bow - weatherstrip - latch - mounting screws.  See illustration below.

**********

03/04/2021

Hello, I’m restoring a 1960 barn find.  Finally putting the car back together. However, I need some direction on how to install the new dash pad.

I know that I need to cut the dash but not sure how much too cut and where. If there is any help or a source you can point me to I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank You, Bob

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

**********

03/01/2021

61 corvette fi  yes  but  not  on  car ign switch wont  start  car   head lites  dont  work  battery  good  put  no power  to   ign switch and  head lites  found a  wire  in same  harness  with  the  purple  wire  that  goes  to  sol  had  all coating  burnt  off  cant  tell  what  color  that  wire  was  not  sure  where  it   went  but  all wires  are  on  the  ign  switch   

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Bill



















From John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  CAUTION - CAUTION - CAUTION :  Burnt insulation usually means YOU HAVE A SHORT in your wiring.  Electrical shorts and fiberglass Corvettes don't play well together.  Before you go any further - make sure you have a fire extinguisher readily available.  If you don't - Go Get One.  Next thing you need is a volt meter - you don't need an expensive one - just one that will tell you you have 12 volts at test points.  Third - its a good ides to have a helper, operating the ignition switch and testing for voltage in the engine bay or under the dash by yourself is difficult.  I have included a rough layout of the wiring (ignition / lighting circuit) for reference, assuming your car has a stock harness. 

Before you start - loosen the connection to your battery sufficiently - so you can disconnect it immediately if needed.

1) Power comes from the battery - to - the starter solenoid (term B) - to the Ammeter. (SEE DIA FOR WIRE SIZES AND COLORS)

2) From the Ammeter - to - the Ignition Switch..... and..... Lite switch .... Clock, Horn Relay, ACC Fuse, Voltaqge Reg, and Cigarette Lighter Connections  (connections are NOT fused).

3) From the Ignition Sw. - power is returned to the Starter Solenoid (term S) to activate the solenoid and connect the battery to the Starter.

TESTING FOR PROBLEM

1) verify voltage (12V) at the "B" term of the solenoid.  (ignition off)  This is the 6 GA wire off the battery.

2) the Black 12 Ga. wire from that same terminal feeds the Ammeter.  The load side of the Ammeter feeds the Ignition Sw (14 RED) and the Light Sw.(12 / 14 RED) and others.

Since you have noted a burnt wire in your starter harness it is probably the wire running from the solenoid to the ammeter.  This would disconnect power from the ignition and lights.

3) Test for voltage on the Ammeter.  Single wire is feed (probable burnt wire) - multiple wires is load.  Both should have 12V (ignition OFF).

If no voltage - you have verified the main wire from the solenoid to the ammeter is open (burnt).  Note: This is not your problem, however, it is the result of a problem.  Analyze the wire from the burn to the ammeter.  If you don't find an obvious problem - disconnect the battery and run a new wire (12 Ga.) to the ammeter.  It would be a good idea to put a fuse in line with this wire until you have everything working properly. Get a hand full of fuses also. Once the wire is in place - reconnect the battery.  If the temp. wire (fused) to ammeter blows, disconnect all wires from the load side of the ammeter.  Reconnect them one at a time - disconnect battery / connect single load / reconnect battery.   Does one blow your fuse ?  If so that circuit has the short you are looking for.  All these feeds are hot (they do not require the ignition switch to be activated) except the ignition switch feed.  When testing the ignition circuit the "ON" position connects the instruments and radio.  The START position connects the power to the starter solenoid.

Once you have identified what circuit (load) is causing the problem, you simply have to determine if the wire feeding the load is the problem or the load itself.  Good luck.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

02/18/22021

On a 56 Corvette with 2 four carbs, and 1896 heads, Is the generator pulley 3 3/4" or 3 5/8" also are the press marks rectangular or round? my 56 is #1896   Thank You

Wayne

From:  Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

02/18/2021

I have a question about door weatherstrip installation. The reproduction weatherstrip that I recently bought for the doors on my 62 has the plastic pins to insert in the holes of the door....so I would like to know is it necessary to use 3m adhesive when the pins and clips might suffice?  Thank you , Garry

From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President: 

**********

02/09/2021

Hello,

My 1956 air cleaners have a lot of scratches and some dents.  Should I have then restored or just buy replacements?  I don't plan to have the car judged, but I always do like to keep the original equipment if I can.  Expense wise I would just purchase new ones if it was going to be real costly to restore the originals.  If I were going to have them restored, is there anyone that you can recommend to me to do that job?

Also some time ago I asked the question of why my two clutch forks that I had put away to use in my 1956 when I finally got to it, were different.  One with a slotted end and one with an oval hole.  You explained the the slotted one was used in a 1957 through 1962.  I think that you went on to say the the adjustable ball, held on with a clip, are hard to find.  I do have the complete unit and I wonder which style you would recommend that I install.

Thank you,
Michael

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter President: 

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

02/08/2021

Hi,
I recently bought a 62 Corvette the wipers do not work? No hum from the motor cables seems to be in tack how do I tell if it is the transmissions or the motor?
Thankyou
Bob

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Bob,
Welcome to Corvette heaven. I'm guessing you just bought either your first Corvette and or your first C-1.

The tach drive is off your distributor and has nothing to do with your wipers.
If the tachometer is noisy, it's probably your tach cable.
If it's noisy & erratic, it could be either or both of the tachometer or cable.

The electric wiper motor switch is on top of the wiper motor gearbox and is actuated by a pull cable attached to the wiper switch located on lower left of the instrument cluster closest to the steering column.
The problem could be switch cable adjustment or being disconnected, a blown fuse or faulty contact inside the gearbox switch. Use a meter to check for electric current. If you have WS Washers, the coordinator which mounts on the gearbox switch plate could be missing, broken or disconnected. Try buying an original and you'll see why it could be missing.

The wipers don't have "transmissions", they have a mounting Pully-Shaft and are both driven by cables off the wiper motor gearbox.
Buy yourself a 1962 Corvette Assembly Manual and read it before you
accidentally break something that is costly to replace.

Congrats on your new toy,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  First - the wiper motor operation has nothing to do with the wiper transmissions and drive cables.  Don't tear into these unless you have to.  The motor control located in your dash is not electrical - it is connected to the wiper motor via a sleeved cable.  The actual electrical switch that turns the motor on and off and controls its speed is on the motor assembly itself.  1) Make sure you have power to the motor.  The motor feed connects to the ballast resistor in the engine bay on the firewall on the passenger side by the wiper motor.  This is not a fused connection. It feeds directly from the ignition switch. Switch ON = 12V.  With the switch ON you should have 12V at the ballast resistor and wiper motor. 2) Make sure the motor is grounded.  It should be a jumper between the motor mounting plate and the engine valve cover mounting screw.  3) Make sure a twist of the wiper switch on your dash moves the wiper motor actuator slide.  And moves it far enough to activate the motor switch inside the cover plate to which it is attached.  4) If the actuator doesn't move or you are not sure it moves far enough - loosen the clamping screw that holds the cable jacket in place and move the actuator by hand.  If after this you get no motor, you probably have a bad motor.  You can disassemble the motor assembly and remove the cover plate to inspect the switch and speed controls, but I have rarely seen them fail.  Good Luck - John

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02/07/2021

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter President: Barry
The passenger side washer jar was used on 58 thru 62 fuel injected cars and your bracket is unique to fi cars. All others used a diffetent bracket mounted on the drivers side splash pan. The fi washer equipment was moved to the passenger side due to air cleaner interference.
Chip Werstein

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Yes!!

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

02/02/2021

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  I have taken Um-teen doors apart and I have to retrain myself every time.  They are kinda like a Chinese Puzzle.  Just take your time and don't get frustrated.  To take the window out you don't have to remove the front post and door guts, a lot of rebuilders do - it just adds to more loose pieces you have to manipulate.  You roll the window up and down to gain access to all the mounting hardware.  1) With the glass (and frame) loose from the regulator (four small screws hold the glass to the track that runs along the bottom of the window unit) - 2) Lower the regulator down out of the way. 3) Rotate the window assembly slightly toward the rear (front up - back down) and it will come out.  If it binds up - don't force it.  Move or remove what is binding.  With the glass out, the remaining pieces come out fairly easily.  When you're re-assembling it - go slow - pay attention to how it came apart.  The glass and frame go in last.  The door glass frame is notorious for catching on everything.  You will think it won't go back together - inspect the back glass frame - it will undetectably catch on the door braces and not allow you to set the window forward enough, thus the window will not roll up and down when assembled.  Note the operation of the window as it rolls down - it rocks back then down.  Good Luck.  Let me know if you invent any new words, I'll add them to my garage dictionary.   -   -John

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1/17/2021

My name is Leo.  

I inherited my uncles 58 corvette about 1.5 years ago and I’ll be starting restoration. 
 

First thing first. Fiberglass work.  I already had a fiberglass guy look at my car and seems to be on point with the work needed,

(front end needs the most work).  He looked at the top of the front end, fenders and hood. The fiberglass is solid,

but has fibers exposed. 

My question to you concerns the process only for the top of fenders and hood. I was told to sand and reglass using chop Matt sheets.

I was also told to sand and mix resin with half inch chop strand (the half inch chopped fiberglass that comes in plastic bags-looks

like powder) and brush a new layer over the tops of the fenders and hood.  

Then block sand. Is this something that is done? It was suggested because the car sat out for 10-20 years in a field, and even

though the fiberglass is solid, the top is showing fibers. What’s your thought?

Thanks 
Leo

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Leo - if the glass is sound, and it looks like it is, I would just restore the gel coat. This is a spray on process, it doesn't add significant thickness and it will give you a smooth surface to prime and paint. You will still want to lightly sand the gel coat (300 grit or higher) before priming.

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1/5/2021

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

Michigan Chapter SACC 






From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Mike

Bill's explanation is correct but the bushings can still be difficult to press in. To make installation easier i heat the strut rod ends....im in s.cal so just putting them in the sun on a warm day does the job......and put the bushings in the freezer. The rod will expand and the bushing will contract providing a couple thousands extra clearance which will make installation much easier.

Chip Werstein

**********

From: Joe Lemay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Barry

As Joe said, you have the wrong wiper motor. Should be electric. Also the ballast resister is in the wrong location.
Chip Werstein

**********

Barry




From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Barry,

For 1958 thru 1960, the 5500 RPM tach was used on the low HP engine options which were the 230 HP carbureted, 245 HP dual carbureted & 250 HP w/ FI. 

 

The 6500 RPM tach was specified for higher HP options 275 HP dual carb and 290 HP w/ FI. 

 

Good luck with your restoration project,

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

From: John Spencer, Red  River Chapter Advisor: 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Barry

The tach in your photo is from a 60 to 62 low horse car. Normally referred to as a 5300 redline. 58 tach had no color band up to the redline, dots under the numbers and a rev counter. These were used on 230,245 and 250 hp cars.

Chip Werstein

 **********

12/17/2020

Hello,

I purchased from a friend a harmonic balancer with a riveted on pulley,  which is about 6 13/16 inches across and my water pump pulley is 2 3/4 inches high from the inside to the outside of the pulley.  The pulley is 7 1/8 inches across.  I was taken off his 265 cubic inch engine. I began by installing a new crankshaft spacer recently purchased from Corvette Central.  i put some RTV silicone on the inside of the balancer, (recommended by the machine shop that rebuilt my engine), and installed the balancer.  It slid on 1 1/4 inches, the length of the remaining part of the crankshaft sticking out.  My water pump was also recently purchased from Bill Mock.  My water pump pulley has about 1/8 inch of clearance between it and the balancer pulley, looking at it from the front and from the side it looks like the balancer pulley is slightly behind the water pump pulley.  Does that all seem correct?

The next question is in regards to my core support that came with my car, a basket case without a radiator.  When taking the car apart a few years ago, I found that the core support had a hole cut out in the bottom by a torch.  Most likely for a radiator drain cock. Thinking that it was pretty ugly, I took it and a later solid axle core support to a shop and asked them to cut the drain hole from the later one and weld it into the support from my 1956.  Eventually i found a radiator and when i slid the radiator into the core support, I found that the drain is well above the drain hole that I had installed.  Looking on the 1956 assembly manual it looks like the 1956 core support didn't have  a drain hole in the bottom.  Is that correct?  I guess if it is, I will have to fill in the hole that put in the bottom of mine.

Thanks for all of your help now and over the past months.

Happy holidays,
Michael

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

There is a hole in the radiator support on the passenger side.  See the Assembly Manual Section 13, Sheet 3.  There is a nipple, coupling and petcock, that extends the petcock below the core support.

-Joe





From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Michael: The 1956 through 1960 Corvettes used a copper and brass radiator that bolts to the core support used for those years.  The drain cock fitting is located on the front of the passenger side of the bottom tank of the radiator.  You reach through the grille teeth to access this drain cock fitting (if you have fairly skinny arms).  Otherwise, get someone who does, because that is the only way to get to it, unless you remove the hood.  There is no hole in the bottom of the core support for the 1956 through 1960 cars, because the drain cock is not on the bottom of the radiator.

Starting in 1961 an aluminum radiator appeared and the radiator core support was completely redesigned, because the radiator attached to it in a completely different way.  The aluminum radiator mounted to the support with three rubber donuts, two on the bottom and one on top.  A reason for the rubber donuts was to prevent a corrosive galvanic action from forming between the aluminum radiator and the steel radiator support.  Also, this approach made it very easy to remove and replace the radiator.  The drain cock and its extension pipe for this radiator are of all-aluminum construction (to prevent galvanic corrosion) and exits straight down through a flared oval shaped hole on the driver's side of the core support.  The reason for this was because the aluminum radiators were of a cross-flow design and the "tanks" were on both sides, not the bottom and top.  Never use brass fittings on an aluminum radiator.

Larry Pearson

*****************



I have a 1959 corvette that had a differential grease leak into the brake on the right side.  I pulled the axle and found a bearing with 1 o ring and a 1/8 inch spacer.  The bearing called out for the 58 - 62 has 2 o rings and is the same thickness as the old bearing with the 1/8 inch spacer.  However, when installed the bearing with 2 o rings has a slight bit of the bearing that is not seated in the race although I never looked at the positioning on the old bearing prior to pulling the axle.  My 59 has a 57 block so perhaps the rear axle is 57 also as the bearing race measures slightly less than 1”.

So, are the bearings of the 57 interchangeable with the bearings called out for the 58 - 62 and why the spacer on my old bearing.  The 58 - 62 seems to be a better bearing as it is sealed and with double o rings I would think it would give better leak protection.

Jeff

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Jeff,
Just to reiterate what's in your memo, you have a 1959 Corvette with a defective right rear bearing seal leaking axle lube into your brake components, you think the old bearing is incorrect because it is different from the new replacement that you just bought so now you you think you may have a 1957 engine & rear axle.

Before you buy any more parts,
PLEASE go online to get a copy of the GM 1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12,
then invest in a GM 1959 Assembly Manual plus
buy an NCRS 1953-1967 Corvette Specification book, both of which you can buy from most Corvette parts vendors.

With these you need to get acquainted with the part numbers & date codes of what your 61 year old car has & the assembly manual will tell you what part numbers it should have.
 
I suspect a previous owner put in some similar but not necessarily correct parts because they were cheap or easier to get.
Good luck on your quest,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC




From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Jeff:  All 1957 through 1962 Corvettes used the same axles.  Cars with Positraction got roller type rear axle bearings and non Positraction cars got ball bearings.  All 1957 through 1962 Corvettes used the same axle bearings of both types, as applicable.  The service roller type rear axle bearings have not been available for many years.  They are considered to be heavy duty and were also used in taxi cabs.  In addition to the two "O" rings used to seal the bearing outer race to the axle housing, the bearing also has an inner seal, on the outside only, to keep the differential gear oil from leaking onto the brake components but allowing the gear lubricant to lubricate the balls and rollers..  A failure of either seal will result in a leak. Corvette Central sells new replacement  "O" rings.  The bearing seal is not serviceable.  You have to buy a new bearing.  Usually bearing failure results in a leak.

The bearing is supposed to be pressed onto the axle shaft all the way to the flange.  There is no spacer that I am aware of.  Then a retaining ring is pressed onto the axle shaft to assure that the bearing stays in place.  The retaining ring is wider than 1/8 inch.  This retaining ring is not a spacer and must be there or the axle might start moving out of the bearing.

Larry Pearson

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12/14/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Michigan Chapter SACC 









From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:   Heater connections go to 1 )intake - 2) waterpump  -  see attached.  good luck - John

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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12/05/2020

I have a 1961 fuelie. Should this car have the generator with the tach drive or a standard generator
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I have just removed the body off my 1960 corvette.  I have been razor blade stripping the last coat of paint (2^nd coat painted over orig in 1970).  What is the best way to strip the original paint and primer, I have read about many options.

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Some enthusiasts don't recommend this method because unless the surfaces are washed very thoroughly you acn leave behind a chemical residue that will ruin a new paint job.  But with care this can be prevented.  I have attached some photos of the process I have used numerous times.  The color coats (repaints) strip easily but I find teh original factory coats to be a little more stubborn.  I use a chemical stripper (bought from your paint supplier - not home depot).  Put on a good pair of rubber gloves and have a bucket of clear water by your side at all times.  Use a paint brush to apply a liberal coat of stripper - wait - let it do its job.  The  paint will bubble up (you may need a second coat/application of stripper)  Use a plastic bondo spreader (not a metal putty knife or razor blade) to scrape off the stripped paint.  This will almost be a liquid.   Scrape the paint off the spreader into a coffee can or other suitable (throw-away) container.  You may need to repeat this step several times.  When you get down to the last coat (primer) scrub the stripper with steel wool to get to bare glass.  Apply one more coat of stripper and scrub it with a clean steel wool pad - only this time, apply running water to the area while you scrub instead of scraping the stripper.  The last step is the critical one.  Apply plenty of water (from a running hose) while you scrub/clean the stripper off.  This removes the chemical residue that will ruin your following paint job.  The result is a clean glass surface that is not gouged up or damaged.  After the glass dries, a light sand job will prep it for the repainting process.  See photos attached.  Good luck !!

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Stephen,

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11/12/2020

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

John
Contact Pete Lindahl 505.412.2389. He is the lock guy. He my even have nos ign switches. Nice guy,  quality work.  I have used him for years.

Chip Werstein

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11/10/2020

I have a 1962 with a 327 / 340 hp , my garage floor under my tail pipes is full of black soot every time I start her up and it will clear it self after a few minutes.  

Can you help?

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

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11/6/2020

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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11/2/2020

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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10/18/2020

Wondering if someone has an opinion on new black carpet for a 62

-Garry

From: Bill. Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:  

Garry,
Most carpet from Corvette suppliers will be from Al Knoch Interior.
Their stock 1959-1962 black carpet is a black/olive tuxedo carpet intended to be identical to GM original. I'm sure there may be vendors who sell a true black if that's what you want.
It' your car, make yourself happy.
One thing I've learned in 5o + years of owning Corvettes, the next owner will most likely want it in stock condition so they don't need to re-do it.

Hope every mile is a happy memory,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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10/15/2020

From: Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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10/06/2020

My 62 starts and idles great.  When I take off it starts to miss on 1st 2nd and third, not as bad on fourth.   I replaced plug wires, cap and rotor, and rebuilt the carb but nothing is working.
-Adnan

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Adnan:  Make sure that your timing is properly set.  The timing mark on your harmonic balancer (damper) may have shifted due to deterioration of the rubber in its construction.  To verify that the timing mark is correct, you will have to determine the actual top dead center.  You can do this by removing the #1 spark plug and carefully turning to engine over with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to determine when the piston is at the top of travel.  If your balancer is retained by a bolt, you can slowly turn the engine over using a 1/2 inch ratchet.  If not, remove all of the spark plugs and turn the engine over using the fan blades, if it is rigid (no fan clutch).  If none of the above, you will have to turn the engine with a screwdriver on the teeth of the flywheel and with the use of a helper.

Once you have determined top dead center, mark it with a Sharpie on the edge of the balancer is it is different from the factory mark.  Then replace the balancer as soon as you can, because it is defective.

If the timing is correct, try a new coil.  Check the spark plug wires for continuity with an ohm meter and insulation breakdown by looking for sparking in the dark.  If the wires are of the radio suppression type, the resistance should be about 1000 ohms (I think).  Ten thousand ohms or higher is too much.  Check the ballast resistor for continuity with an ohm meter.  It should be between 0.5 ohms and 1.5 ohms.

Larry Pearson

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  
Adnan - Larry is correct to suspect timing, but I would suspect the distributor advance more than a change in the harmonic balancer.  You can check this with a timing light.  Hook up the timing light and watch the timing mark on the timing chain cover and its relation to the mark on the balancer as you goose (highly technical term meaning open rapidly) the throttle.  You should see the timing mark move in relation with the timing chain cover tab.  If it don't you have a vacuum advance problem (usually presented as a faltering of the engine during acceleration) or a mechanical advance problem (more typical of what you're describing).  When you first crack your throttle you should see the timing drop (vacuum advance function) then advance with RPMs (mechanical advance function).  Otherwise it sounds like you've addressed the other suspects.  Good luck - John

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09/29/2020

I have been restoring my ’59 for 30+ years. I’m on the downhill side of this project. But, I’ve run into a problem of how to adjust the door hinges & align the doors. Every source I’ve found only shows the locations of the hinge bolts which control the alignment & some mentions possibly using shims. However, I’ve found no info on what procedure or order to follow. My efforts so far have been less that acceptable.  Can you suggest where I can find such info? Thanks for your time & any guidance or help you might offer.
Lewis

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Lewis:  The procedure is found in the only official GM shop manual for C-1 Corvettes:  Corvette Servicing Guide, Publication ST-12.  Reproductions of this manual are available from all the major Corvette parts supply sources.

The explanation is found on page 1-19, DOOR HINGES and refers to figure 31 on page 1-17.  The door is held to the upper and lower door hinges by three bolts per hinge.  The bolt access holes were originally covered with round black felt covers to keep rain water out of the area behind the door panel.  If you loosen (don't remove) these three upper and lower bolts, the door can be shifted up and down and back and forth to a small degree.  As you adjust the doors as necessary for proper alignment with the body exterior, just tighten one bolt of the three until you have the the door in proper alignment and then tighten the other two bolts.  If the door needs to move outward, you will have to add round steel washers between the hinge and the door.  If the door needs to move inward, you will have to remove any shims that are already in place.  If there are no shims in place, you might have to take your car to an experienced Corvette body shop for help on this.

There are two large Phillips head screws that hold the hinges to the body.  There is no adjustment here, so leave them alone.  Be sure to lubricate the flat friction springs in the body part of the hinge assemblies.  Use Lubriplate light white grease.  There is an upper and lower flat spring in each door hinge.  These are to keep the door fully open with their friction so the door doesn't close on you when you want it to stay open.

After you have the door properly adjusted, be sure to replace the round seals using an adhesive.  If there were no seals, use a couple layers of masking tape over each of the six holes.

Larry Pearson

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

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09/26/2020

I just bought a 1959 corvette that has Fuel Injection emblems on it and I am trying to locate the build information to determine if it was actually built as a fuel injected car.  The original engine is long gone and just getting started with the job of replacing tired parts.

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

Jeff,
The bad news is that there is no data base that contains the information you're looking for regarding 1953-1962 Corvettes.
The paint & engine code plate under the hood wasn't added till 1963 production start.

The good news is that with publications such as the Corvette Black Book, the NCRS 1953-1967 Corvette Specifications Guide and the GM 1959 Assembly Instruction Manual, by comparing your car against the standard configuration of the 4 optional engines, three transmission options, plus the numerous RPO's, the car will tell you what it was.
Just remember, owner modifications over the last 61 years may give you conflicting testimony. You are it's archivist, historian & conservator. Take pictures.

If your car is a fuel injection car with the engine changed, all the various components or their previousmounting located under the hood will be where the AIM required them to be.

Good luck in your investigation
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter

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09/23/2020

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09/21/2020

I installed a Jim Meyer Racing IFS on my 60 and now they are out of business and I need Upper and lower control arm bushings. I was hoping someone in your club might have some info on these.

Signed, Desperate in WI

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

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09/20/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Eric:  Sorry that this response is late. I have 12 cars and have had speedometer problems like you describe many times.  I normally am able to fix the problem myself.  I will tell you how I do it.

The speedometer and tachometer cables must be lubricated with a light weight grease.   Graphite is not a proper lubricant for speedometer cables.  Years ago, the AC division of General Motors sold ST-640 Speedometer Cable Lubricant.  It comes in a metal toothpaste type tube and is white and is very soft.  I recently asked a speedometer repair show what to use, and they said to use a light weight general purpose grease.  Use Lubriplate grease if you can find it.

To lubricate it, pull the cable from the casing and inspect it for damage.  Then use your fingers to apply the grease to the cable as you push it back into the casing.

Now for your other problem.  The squealing is caused by the speedometer or tachometer bearings being dry.  In my experience, you can lubricate these bearings yourself.  Check the bearings for excess wear by turning the shaft end with your fingers and check for up and down movement, indicating excess wear that will require a rebuild.  If there is no evidence of excess wear, drill a small hole, around 1/16", in the top of the casing just at the end of the threads where the cable nut threads on.  There are two bronze bushings that support the speedometer shaft, and this will put you at about the middle between them.  Inject a small amount of oil into this hole.  I use a hypodermic needle.  Use 50 weight engine oil or 90 weight gear oil.  Originally, these bushings were greased, but it is hard to get grease into this hole and to where the bushings are using this method.  Rock the speedometer back and forth to get the oil to the bearings. Spin the shaft with your fingers to make sure it is free.  When in operation, the cable spins at 1000 rpm at 60 mph, so good lubrication is a must.  The tachometer cable spins at half engine speed, because the distributor/generator adapter operates at half engine speed.  If you have a shop rebuild the tachometer, make sure that they calibrate it to read twice shaft speed.

Whenever you hear the speedometer or tachometer make a squealing sound, immediately pull over and disconnect the cable .  This vibration can greatly damage the inner workings of the speedometer in very short order.  It sounds like your speedometer has suffered internal damage and lubrication will not help it.  With the speedometer or tachometer, if you spin the shaft in the correct direction with your fingers and the pointer does not move, you will have to have the unit rebuilt.  You can make a test adapter out of a nail.  Pound the end square with an hammer and use an electric drill to spin the shaft at varying speeds to make sure that the pointer moves smoothly.  If not, you will have to have it rebuilt to fix this.

Corvette Central offers a rebuilding service.  Mechanical speedometers and tachometers with a cable have not been manufactured for many years.  Everything is electronic today, and it is hard to find someone locally who has the parts and knowledge to properly rebuild and calibrate your units.

Larry Pearson

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09/19/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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I am hoping that you would have help/instructions for removing the horn button on a 1962 Corvette.

-Charlie

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

 Charlie,
The horn button is retained inside a split spring steel stamping that also acts as the horn contact by three equally spaced retainer detents under the button face.
Insert a flat tool that won't scratch the steering wheel on both  sides of the button and pry up. It should pop off.

Good luck,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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09/08/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Hi Michael

You have a few different items.  The main case is a 56, but cast in Tonawanda and was never used in a Corvette.  The 3855710 tail was used on 1965 Corvettes.  I do not know about that tail mounting arrangement.  The correct 3 speed will mount to the C1 tailhousing.  I am using a early 3 speed shifter with a later C1 tailhousing.  You should be able to acquire a later C1 tailhousing.  The 1956 3722946 tail may be pricey.

The 3 speed shifters mount to the transmission tail without a bracket.  The shifter is arranged with holes to match the tailhousing.  Check the AIM and you will see that.

The bracket at the bottom of the transmission is different for a Muncie 318 3 speed and a BW T-10.  The height is greater for a BW but the spacing is the same.  That bracket you purchased may be the plate that allows using a Muncie M-20 with a C1 transmission crossmember.  You would need to describe if it is a flat plate with four holes in it.

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09/05/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Fred - I too have a 58 (great choice) and an original scissor jack.  Although my jack is in mint condition - I would never use it.  A scissor jack is a very dangerous tool.  If you need to raise your 58 for any service, use a hydraulic floor jack.  Use the scissor jack for show only.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Fred:  I own a 60 Corvette that I purchased from the original owner.  It had the original jack and it had probably been used only once and it had completely fallen apart.  The original jacks that came with these cars are dangerous to use and are recommended for show judging only.  Even the reproductions of this jack are not recommended to jack up the car, only for NCRS judging.  My 62 came with a far superior jack of a different and better construction.  The aftermarket jack that your car came with is undoubtedly a much better and safer jack to use for everyday driving.   I question that the jack you have is a correct original one because for the threads to strip, it would have been used many times, and that is not possible with the original jacks.

If you are having your car NCRS judged, and if, indeed, your jack and jack handle are correct looking and will pass a visual check, leave it the way it is.  NCRS judging does not check the jack operation, only the look.  You shouldn't be able to see that the internal threads are stripped by looking at the jack.

Larry Pearson

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

 Fred,
Over the years of owning a C-1, I have learned that a good aftermarket scissor jack is:
 1) visually undisguisable from an original if you remove limiter
    tubes over the Acme screw,
 2) they are unsafe to use for anything more than car show browny
    points
 3) most guys carry an small aluminum floor jack for emergencies.

The Acme nut in your aftermarket would most likely fit the original screw but tearing down both jacks to swap parts means reassembling the original and which will still be unsafe to use.

My advise, use the modified aftermarket jack or put the original jack in the spare tire well under the 6.70-15 bias ply spare for show or points. I've never seen an owner asked to actually jack-up the car with it.
Keep a real floor jack for emergencies.

Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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09/02/2020

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08/29/2020

Hello,

    I am building a 327 340hp engine for my ’62 Corvette.  It has a NOM 283 dressed to look like a 300hp 327 engine currently and it originally a 300hp car.

  I figured it would be nice to have a correct, though not #s matching 327 340hp style engine in my car.  Things are progressing pretty well except for the issue with the oil pan.  I sourced a 6qt trap door SHP oil pan w/windage tray; though now my engine builder is stating it won’t clear the ’62 suspension/steering.  Apparently, this pan is actually from a 1963 engine and while it will be fine on the engine itself, it won’t work in the car.

Are the ’62 and earlier SHP pans specific enough that a ’63 and up SHP pan will not fit (IE interfere with the car)?  Do I need to try and find a ’62 and earlier pan?  It took me a long time just to find this one.  Thanks for any help on this!

 Greg

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Greg
62 corvette pans are 5 guart. Engines hold 6 quarts....5 in pan, 1 in filter. All 62 pans are the same 2 step configuration but the 340 and 360 pans have the trap door. They were also used in eariler cars. Dont think 63 pan will work. 62 style pans are out there but getting difficult to find. You could use the 250, 300 hp pan as it looks the same from the outside. Most likely Dave Sokolowski in Calif. Has a few of both styles. He advertises in the ncrs driveline.
Chip Werstein

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08/25/2020

  I  have 61 Corvette with Dual Point Distributor and Dual Quads  I replaced the Dual Point with Pertronix 91183 Ignitor 11 in place of the Dual Points.

                The car start right up. Idle great, but under a load it misfired and shut off while driving it. Called Pertonix they total me that the mechanical advance is

                Not working. Could this be possible. Has anyone install Pertronix in place of dual points?

                Thanks,

                Glenn

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  
Glen
You must use a pertronix coil with their ignition system. Also, the pertronix requires 12 volts to trigger it so if you are using a ballast resister connect the trigger wire to the 12 volt side.
Chip Werstein

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

1. IMPORTANT: Read all instructions before starting installation.
2. DO NOT USE WITH SOLID CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES.
3. The Ignitor II ignition can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 0.45 ohms or greater.
4. All external resistors must be removed to achieve optimum performance from the Ignitor II ignition system.
5. The Ignitor II is compatible as a trigger for most electronic boxes.

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08/24/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  It may need the hood hinges adjusted. Lubrication on the hinges helps.

Verle

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The hood support can stick.

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08/19/2020

I have a 1960 that has been sitting for 42 years.  I just started cleaning and pulling numbers from under the hood items.  I know the VIN plate is suppose to be spot welded to the steering column, stamped and made from stainless steal.  While cleaning the dirt off the VIN plate I noticed it was loose, I pried it up and discovered it was glued on.  I took a magnet to it and it does stick.  Does a magnet stick to the VIN tags for this year vet as true stainless does not.

Thanks

Steve

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Steve:  I own a 1960 and checked the VIN tag last night with a magnet, and it is very much magnetic.  The question is why was your tag glued on?  The car could be stolen, of course.  Or it could have been in a severe accident that required that the steering column be replaced and the tag re-attached to the replacement column.  If the engine is the original one, the VIN number is stamped on the front pad of the block along with with the manufacturing date code and horsepower/transmission code.  The VIN number is also stamped in large characters on the top of the frame under the driver's seat.  Reading this requires that the body be somehow lifted above the frame in this area about one inch so you can read it.  If the frame is badly rusted, this number might not be readable at all.

If you are planning to have this car judged by NCRS, they very thoroughly evaluate this tag and its attachment.  They don't pry on it to verify that it is spot welded on, and you can epoxy it on in such a way that it looks correct.  Also, they make portable spot welders and it might be possible to have this tag properly spot welded in place.  There is an industry that reproduces this tag and apparently it is not exact and can be detected as a replacement.  NCRS will not judge the car if this tag is suspect.  You will be required to have your DMV verify the car's VIN, and this gets very messy.  If you plan to have NCRS judge your car with this re-attached tag, do not discuss anything about this issue with the judges.  Let them figure it out.

Larry Pearson

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08/15/2020

Will a 3^rd member out of a 1962 nova fit in a 1959 corvette?

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  I have never tried it but I believe it is the same as Corvettes and tri five Chevies. Probably a tall gear.

Verle

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Wishbone:  The 1955 through 1964 Chevrolet full size sedans use a differential assembly that will fit your 1959 Corvette.  The 1962 Novas were much smaller than the full size sedans and had a four and six cylinder engine option.  In my opinion, it is highly unlikely that the differential supplied with this car was the same size as that used in the full sized sedans.  The full size sedans came equipped with everything from a larger six cylinder engine to a 409 W motor.

Larry Pearson

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08/14/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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08/06/2020

Before I install my harmonic balancer I wanter to check to make sure that I have the correct one.  My balancer has a casting number of 37680 on the inside of the center section and although it has been painted black, I would assume that the balancer on a 265 cubic inch engine should be painted the red engine color.  So do I have the correct balancer and am I correct in thinking that it should be painted red?  It is a stock 1956, 265 cubic inch.

Thank you for your help.
>
> Michael

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  I looked up that casting number and it does not look like what I think a 56 265 balancer should look like.

Here is a very ugly one:

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The photo below is similar to the typical factory balancer but there are some differences.  The typical one has a 3/8" pulley riveted to the balancer and two threaded holes to remove the balancer from the motor.  See the attachment.  There is no separate part number stamped on the riveted pulley.  This pulley is also used on 1957 corvettes except the 270 and 283 HP motors.  270 uses a riveted 1/2" pulley with the same balancer configuration (rare to find).  283 HP uses a 1/2" pulley bolted to the balancer in three places.  It would look like the photo below.  All balancers with riveted pulleys are painted engine color.  Balancer with bolted pulley is engine color.  The bolted pulley is black.

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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08/03/2020

1958 Corvette.  Parking brake  issues, parked with parking brake off since 1977.  

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07/30/2020

> I would like to purchase a 1956 trunk lid from someone
> Do you know anyone?
>
> Thanks
> Rob

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:  Rob,
This should be real easy.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/body-frame/fiberglass-rear/56-60-trunk-lid-press-moulded-141093?returnurl=%2fc1-53-62%2fbody-frame%2ffiberglass-rear%2f%3fcount%3d27'
Ecklers, Chicago Corvette, Mid-America, et al sell the same parts.

If you're looking for an original, Paragon has one. https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-349779-trunk-lid.aspx

Otherwise, hit the internet and remember- Condition, Condition, Condition. The better it is, the more it costs.
Good luck.
Bill

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07/28/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Book:  The chrome bezel goes on the outside surface.  On the inside surface, the order is:  Gasket, emblem, and backing plate.  There are special self threading winged nuts to hold everything together.  Pre-thread the special winged nuts on the three studs on the bezel to make it easier to install them with the bezel in place.  Corvette Central sells a special tool to tighten these nuts, which you really need.  They do make a PAL self threading nut with a hex head which is a lot easier to use, but it will not pass NCRS judging.

Larry Pearson 

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07/23/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  See illustration.  Shoulder bolt is Paragon Corvette P/N 628K ($10.00).

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Don:  The bushing assembly consists of an outer sleeve that is pressed into the cross shaft with the shoulder directed toward the engine, a rubber insulator, and an inner bushing.  In my experience with my two 62's, the rubber part rapidly disintegrates leaving the inner bushing in direct contact with the outer metal sleeve. This is particularly the case if you are using a high performance Borg & Beck pressure plate which takes lots of pedal pressure to activate.  I have found that it works fine without the rubber part.  It makes me wonder if the original factory part used a more durable rubber compound than the service replacement units.

If this bothers you, I strongly suggest that you purchase a replacement bushing kit from Danchuck, the 55-57 Chevy parts supplier.  Go online to see it.  Their catalog number is #345, and it currently costs $16.95.  The heart of their bushing kit is two identical bushings custom made of Delrin plastic.  These do not press into the cross shaft, they install with one on each side of the cross shaft hole in place of the original pressed in outer sleeve.  Nothing is pressed in, so it is easy to service if it wears out.  You must remove the old outer sleeve to make room for this kit.  I have been using one of these kits for about 25 years in my "beater" 62 and have had no problems with it at all.  Of course it will not pass NCRS judging.

Larry Pearson

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07/22/2020

Hi!
Would like to know the exact measurements for placement of the front badge on my 1960.
Bought the car with 61 emblems.
VIN says it is a 1960.
Getting painted and the painter needs to know the placement to make the hole for the correct emblem.
Thanks! Any help is appreciated.
Cindy

From:  Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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07/19/2020

I recently changed the engine oil and filter on my 1961 Corvette and have noticed a slight oil leakage at the oil filter canister bolt head.   Do you know of a way to eliminate this leakage?  I don’t remember leakage at this location prior to the oil change.  I am fairly certain I have sufficient torque on the bolt and have observed no oil leaking at the cannister to engine interface.  The canister assembly is fairly new (Purchased from Paragon in 2004).   The original canister bolt to canister was not integral (Bolt was not attached to the cannister).  So I replaced it with the Paragon canister assembly.
> Thank you,
> Mike

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Mike,

The original style oil filter cannister can be a leakers delight if not installed properly. The rubber square x-section sealing ring at the top has to be seated flat without twisting or humps plus the cannister needs to be installed straight & perpendicular to the engine block sealing surface. The original detachable cannister bolt should have had a seal under the bolt head flange to keep the oil from leaking out the bottom.
Your integral bolt cannister should have either a seal under the bolt flange or sealing grooves formed on the underside of the bolt flange.
Paragon has very helpful customer service people. Since you are local, why not give them a call at 800-882-4688. I'm sure they would be happy to help you.

Regards,
Bill Huffman, pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
solidaxlecorvettemi.com

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Mike:  The original bolt was held in place with the canister shell with a spring on the inside of the canister.  The bolt did not come out separately from the canister, they are held together.  If the leak is at the bolt head interface with the canister shell, see if you can work some Teflon pipe thread sealer tape between the bolt head and the canister shell.  This very likely will stop the leak.

On the other end, whenever I change the filter cartridge, I remove the aluminum "O" ring retainer to remove the old O-ring at the top end.  It is difficult to remove the old rubber O-ring without doing this.

To make the oil filter change a lot less messy, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the canister and threaded it for a 1/8 pipe plug.  There is enough metal thickness here for the plug to seal and not leak.  I use Teflon tape on the plug threads and never have had a leak.  This allows me to completely drain the old oil out of the canister so when I remove it there is no hot oil running down my arm and onto my driveway.  I only change the filter element every other time I change the oil, and this allows me to easily drain the old oil out of the canister.  Of course this will fail in NCRS judging if the judges see it.

Larry Pearson

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07/17/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  To remove the cross shaft requires releasing the tension on the cross shaft helper spring.  I have always placed a pair of large vicegrip  pliers (or medium pipe wrench) on the cross shaft itself, released the clutch push rod from the cross shaft and allowed the cross shaft to rotate and relax the spring.  Once the spring is removed - disassemble of the cross shaft is an easy task.  take caution here - the cross shaft spring is stout - have a good grip on the cross shaft with your pliers - make sure you can rotate and hold the shaft with the pliers before removing the clutch push rod.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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07/08/2020

From: Verle Randolph, Red River VP:

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07/07/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  My 58 has the VIN stamped on the frame.  It is located under the driver's seat area on the top of the frame.  Depending on how much space you have between the frame and underbody, you can see it with  a light and mirror.

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  I checked my VIN stamp on a 1957.  It is located at midlength of the door.  You will need to loosen all the body bolts (12), and remove the five- left side nuts.  Put a 18" piece of 2X4 on the floor between the frame and rocker panel.  Jack up the body about 1 1/2 inches.  Clean the top of the frame in that area and use a mirror taped to the floor under the frame rail.  With the correct lighting, you should be able to take photos.

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Does the car have the original engine? If so the last 5 digits of the vin will be stamped on the pad along with the engine assembly date.
However, with the tag missing it may have been a theft recovery and the original engine may be long gone.

Chip Werstein .

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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7/01/2020

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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06/24/20

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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06/14/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  

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06/13/2020

I just put a new clutch pressure plate and flywheel in my 62 Vette. I have the transmission about 1 inch from being up to the bell housing and it is hung up. Any help?

From: Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:  The usual problem is misalignment of the clutch plate. If it is not accurately centered on the throw out bearing the input shaft will hold the transmission an inch away.
This is how many transmission ears are broken, someone tries to pull the transmission to the bell housing with the bolts.

Remove the transmission and look through the center of the hole and look at the clutch plate hole and the throw out bearing alignment.

Solution is to remove bell housing, loosen the clutch plate bolts until you can move the clutch plate and center it. The alignment tool that comes with the clutch kit is usually plastic and does not do a good job of centering. It often (usually???) allows the clutch plate to slip down just enough to cause your problem.

If you have an input shaft from any Chevrolet standard transmission they work better. If not, do your best to center the clutch plate with the alignment tool as you tighten the lower two bolts a little. Move the tool in and out. when centered it should move fairly easy. Keep doing this as you tighten bolts around the clutch plate to make sure the tool moves. Also, remove the tool and inspect the alignment visually.

It is a bother but it must be done.

I have bought many very good 4-speeds with broken ears for a cheap price.

Verle

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Lee,
you changed the flywheel. Did you check to make sure the nose bushing fit the transmission input shaft?
1 inch is about the depth of the nose bushing.

If you did and it fit, does the clutch spline fit the input shaft freely or was it sticky/tight?

Is the clutch spline symmetrical relative to the plates?  If not, the new clutch plate could be backward.

Did you use an input shaft installation tool to align the flywheel/bushing/ clutch plate/pressure plate assembly before tightening & torqueing the pressure plate to the flywheel?

Good luck on your installation R & R,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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06/09/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  I have had this problem before on a Solid Axle and another vehicle.
One thing that helped me was to remove the zerk and squirt some lubricating oil in the hole. Jack car up, remove tire, jack stand support. I found better results by squirting oil several times over two or three days.

My theory is the grease  hardens over time, possibly by losing volatile ingredients. The lubricating oil softens the grease making things work better and allowing grease to be added through the zerk.

Only other option I know is to dismantle and redo.

Verle

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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06/08/2020

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From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Even if you open Block Drains (if you have them) you don't completely drain the block.  If you're wanting to remove all the old coolant, you have to flush the block.  This will dilute what coolant is remaining in the block and if you flush it long enough - replace the residual coolant with clear water.  When adding coolant back - simply anticipate the amount of clear water in the block to establish your desired concentration of coolant-to-water.

Note: Heater core will hold 1 Qt. 

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  When filling an empty radiator and block you will have a lot of trapped air. Pour in as much as you can. Leaving the radiator cap off, start the engine and let it run, when the thermostat opens the level will fall. Keep pouring in water/antifreeze until it is full. You may have to top off a few times. After a drive where the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Turn off, let cool down then check the water level, ad as necessary. You need to open the heater control valve so it can drain or fill.

The Corvette Servicing Guide -P 14-9 at bottom, says 16 qt w/o heater, 17 qt with heater.


Verle

From: Chip Werstein, Socal Chapter Advisor:  

Mike,

Verle is .most likely correct in his diagnosis of your problem. I have been aware of potential air lock problems when filling cooling systems for many years but have never experienced it. I drill two 1/8 inch holes  in the thermostat thin metal mounting flange. This prevents the system from being sealed up which allows trapped air to escape thereby preventing air locks. Give it a try.

Chip Werstein

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06/05/2020

My question pertains to 56-57 Corvettes, if the Saginaw transmissions were cast in Saginaw where were they assembled?, St. Louis.    Same with the rear ends casting in Detroit and assembled in St. Louis, or that is what I read somewhere who knows where do you have any info on that one?

Thanks,

Kermit 

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

There was a foundry,  Saginaw Metal Casting Operations Saginaw, Michigan  1919 , where cases were cast and assembly was done in the Saginaw Transmission Saginaw, Michigan.

    Metal casting for power trains. Engine Blocks. Crankshafts

    Manual Transmissions, Originally made the Saginaw 3 and 4-Speed manual transmissions.

The old Saginaw plant was torn down in 2019.

I believe the Corvette plant in St Louis did no major assembly on mechanical parts. Those parts, engines, transmissions, rear ends, etc came ready to be installed. The plant did add accessories to those assemblies.

Verle

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5/31/2020

From: Tom Parsons, Red River Chapter FI expert:  

The number of fresh air ducts (airboxes) built was 50. THERE IS NO SURVIVING GM DRAWINGS OR DOCUMENTATION FOR THEIR CONSTRUCTION, BECAUSE IT GOT DISPOSED OF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Per Ken Kayser. What a shame!!!!!!!!!! Even though 50 airbox ducts were fabricated, only 43 cars were built with an airbox FI pkg. So, where did the other 7 ducts go??? Well SOME of them have been accounted for. One (a 48th car) was factory installed, BUUUUUUUUUUUT, the production order was changed to a 2x4 engine (FI was removed and replaced with 2x4s) and a major portion of the duct was sawed off! (MANY years ago, 70s, it was rumored that car was in Arkansas, I never saw it) That leaves 6 unaccounted ducts. A SACC member (John Neas in Tulsa) has one of the unaccounted for ducts on his 57 FACTORY RPO 579C car. It was delivered to Rosenthal Chevrolet WITHOUT an airbox (and the tach was in the dash). About 2-3wks after delivery to Rosenthal, a complete Airbox pkg was delivered and installed on John’s car. So now that leaves 5 unaccounted for ducts that were fabricated. One of them MAY, repeat, MAY be on my 56. I just do not positively know the actual source of my airbox. I bought it about 30yrs ago from someone--------------AND IT APPEARED TO NEVER HAVE BEEN INSTALLED (NO installation holes were in it).

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5/31/2020

I have a 1962 Corvette 327 340hp 4 speed matching , the car sometimes cuts out while driving, it loses power and powers up again while driving, sometimes it looses power and just quits and will not start until it sits a while and cools down ??

What do I check ?

How do I join your organization ??

John

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  

This could be a number of problems, but from your description - I would suspect the coil.  A defective coil will often fail in one of two modes, or both; 1) the broken coil (wire coil) becomes intermittent - it will quit firing for no reason and then start firing as sudden as it stopped. 2) as it heats up it will fail and cease to fire until it cools down and remakes contact.  This is an easy fix - replace the coil and see if the problem goes away, if not at least you know you've eliminated one possibility.  All the other possibilities are not so easily fixed.  They are probably in the carburetion or fuel delivery.  Things to investigate;  does the stall occur in a turn or at a totally random time. (Left turn is carburetor), when the stall occurs - does it seem to be the lack of fuel (fuel pump, or filter) or does it seem to be flooding (restarts with footfeed floored = carb adjustment).

-John

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5/30/20

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: 
 I don't know of any source for the Door Latch mechanism rivets.  I'm sure you could find rivets that would work from a rivet supplier, but I don't believe the new mechanisms are terribly expensive.  I would replace the whole mechanism.

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5/27/20

Steering,  I have excessive free travel when I turn all the way right or left what would cause this?

Richard

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  This is a curious problem.  The steering box on a C1 is designed to have zero lash (play) at the high point (center position).  As you turn the steering the play between the worm gear and the sector shaft roller increases.  This, however, is not suppose to be excessive.  In a worn steering box it's all but gone; as you tighten the worm gear / sector shaft engagement at the high point  (where the worm gear has its most wear) to eliminate play - you decrease the designed play at the steering's extremes where the worm gear experiences less wear.  Attempting to adjust the play out of the center or high point often yields a binding of the steering at the extremes not excessive play.  I would go through the steering box adjustment procedure and verify the play exists in the steering box.  This procedure can be found in Chevrolet's Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12.  Steering adjustments are found in Section 9, the guide which can be found on-line.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:

I would do a complete inspection of the front suspension and steering.

Excessive play in steering could be any of a number of problems.

A-frame moving, tie rod ends, idler, spindle bushings, steering box....

Verle

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  You need a copy of ST-12 and a scale that will measure a pull force of 0-3 lb.  First be certain the steering wheel is centered using the indicator mark behind the horn button.  Adjust that with the drag link or tie rods.  Adjust your steering box exactly as described in ST-12.  It worked for me.

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05/20/20

I recently purchased a used front sway bar from a 1961 Corvette. I was with the understanding this should have a diameter of 1” but when I measured it the diameter is .805

Would you know the correct diameter ?

Thank you

Joe A

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Vice President:  

From old GM parts manual, .8125 for 1960 to 1962.

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5/13/20

Sir’s,

I have a question;  Where might I find some pictures of the underside/back of the dash on my car.  And BTW I just sent my application for membership in today and was unaware of your existence as a club. 

Thanks in advance and I’m sure with your vast knowledge of several members there is a wealth of information about these cars. 

Kermit

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  If you are planning to have it look as original, 
I have a 1957 that I plan to remove the gauges and replace all the wiring connections as original
My resources are my 1957 AIM electronic file that was put together from several resources.  The
file size is huge so it cannot be sent.  There is one internet site that has them, (http://earlycorvettes.com).
1956-7 Judging Manual, and go to the NCRS Discussion Board.  You can search for photos from 
members who posted there.

Joe

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5/13/20

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

From Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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5/12/20

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

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05/11/20

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Hi Michael:

1956 Corvette engine color is red except possibly the last few weeks of production, which may be Chevy Orange;  Manual transmissions use a cast-iron bellhousing and is painted engine color.  There were several items that were bolted to completed engine and they were painted as an assembly including the water pump, oil pan, balancer, and bell housing.  Items that were not bolted onto the assembly were many times black, such as the road draft tube and generator adjusting brace.

The red color is similar to Ford Tractor Red.

Joe

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05/10/2020

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  

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05/10/2020

From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President:  

Yes remove the emblem. You are fortunate to have that opening for the emblem to give you access

to install the retainer clip. That's the reason they designed that emblem that way. I have a 1957 and

don't have that extra room to work. It's REALLY hard to get that retainer on a 56-57.

Bill Preston

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Dear Solid Axle Corvette Club:

I hope you can help me,  The problem concerns body segment being fitted properly:  Hood adjustment so front of hood is flush with fender on 1960 corvette

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

My 1964 chevrolet master parts book lists  flywheel casting number 3729004 for all 55 thru 62 corvettes as well many other 55 thru 64 passenger cars and trucks. The actual clutch diameter is referred to as 10 or 10.5 inches. There is an 11 inch listed for 55 thru 64 passenger and trucks....cast 3714463 for hd applications, but not for corvettes.. I can not find your flywheel 3789733 listed anywhere.

Chip Werstein

From: Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:  

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Hello, I am finishing up with rebuilding my front suspension which I stopped work on seven years ago. Back when I installed the new king pins, I think that it was the owner of the machine shop that replaced my upper inner bushings in the spring towers, that suggested putting locktite on the outside of the lower king pins bushings to keep them from turning. The more I learn and the more i think about it, I think that this was probably the wrong thing to do. Can anyone tell me whether I did the right thing or wrong thing in putting locktite on those bushings? I know they call them free floating bushings. My second question is how can you tell when an upper control arm is no longer serviceable? My new bushings, when inserted into the outer side without turning in the threads and without the outer shaft in place, will go into the hole leaving a thread or two showing on the outside. They seem to tighten to the prescribed 35 foot pounds when it is assembled with the cross shaft in place. It is just that I have had it apart a few times and possibly by other owners as well. If this one side is in need of being replaced, I would rather do it at this point. I do have another control arm that I could replace it with, but it is pitted and doesn't look so nice as my one that came on the car. Thank you for all of the help.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  Ref:  1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide
         Technical Service Department
         Chevrolet Motor Division

    Installation

"When replacing the kingpin floating bushings it is not necessary to ream them to size as service bushings are machined to finish dimensions.
However, when replacing floating bushings, care should be taken to make sure the oil grooves in the bushings line up with the lubrication fitting hole in the steering knuckle.
These bushings should be free both on the kingpin and in the steering knuckle."

This would suggest that locktite is not appropriate for the bushings.

I am curious why the shop suggested locktite.

 
Verle

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hi, What color is the metal axle positraction tag? Thanks. Steve

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Steve,
It is my belief the circular tag was raw steel....possibly painted over during the blackout process. I always cad plate mine. NCRS has never deducted anything for the plating.
Chip Werstein

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Hi guys , i have a 1957 corvette and i am looking for the correct headlights . it is" a t-3"  triangle in the middle with pebble grain, on the bottom it shows " guide" on the bottom and above that it shows " sealed beam" in small letters. in 1956 it had large words " sealed beam".  can you folks help me locate 2 headlights.  

thank you 

bob  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Having a tough time locating replacement hinge pins for a 1955 Corvette. Any help appreciated.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  Ebay vender for early Corvette parts  partsqueen responded to my message:

"New message from: partsqueen Top Rated Seller(9,765Green Star)
Hi There, I have the door hinge shims and plates and a few door hinge pins and maybe a few bushings and not many"

Her parts store is on ebay.


If you deal with her make sure to clarify what you are getting and what condition.

She often has very hard to find parts.

If the pins don't show on her store, click on a part and send message about the pins.

Verle

*Note:  From: Web Editor:  When you venture on ebay you are never sure who you are dealing with.  They may not have a lot of expertise, plus their idea of quality might not be the same as your idea of quality.  They may send you something that differs from what you asked for.  As Verle said above, make sure you verify the part and condition.

I just found another source for early parts.

http://www.carolsclassiccorvettes.com/

Lloyd Miller, a noted restorer of 53-55 Corvettes said he has had good luck with them.

I have not asked them about hinge pins. 

Another issue, 55 hinges are aluminum. You have to be careful to not break them.

Verle

(Note:  From Web Editor:  The same disclaimer noted above applies.)

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

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Hello,  
>
> I'm hoping that you might be able to help me out or possibly direct in in the right direction for some help.  I am just finishing up with a from suspension rebuild on my 1956 which has a 1957 frame.  This is a car that I have never driven incidentally.  When I got everything back together it was quite obvious that there is something wrong with the right hand side.  That side has extreme negative camber which cannot be adjusted out even with the eccentric pushed all the way out.  The hub lays back at the top about three inches. The top of the brake hub is missing the upper control arm by about a quarter of an inch.  I thought that the steering knuckle might be bent, but on examination I think that it has been replaced with with the wrong part.  It doesn't have a stop on the back side either.  It could have never had one or it could have been broken off.
>
> So here is my problem, I have another steering knuckle from a 1949 Chevrolet and and one from a 1953 Chevrolet.  I have heard that they are the same as Corvette, but I have also heard that the spindle on them comes off at 1 1/2 inches lower.  Therefore they may not be the same as Corvette.  Do you happen to know what the casting number would be for those spindles.  If i knew what the casting numbers were for Corvette, I could try to match it up with one from a passenger car.
>
> Thank you for your time and help.
>
> Best regards,
> Michael

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Cahpter Advisor:  

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

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have the frame on my 56' cleaned/primed    now, what color is closest to the original frame color    bearing in mind i will buy paint at ace   thks  gene  

From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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Looking to find correct positioning of trunk and deck lid weatherstrip on a 1958 Corvette. Been looking for hours but nothing concrete is showing. Thank You Dale

From: Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:  First, adjust the trunk lid to a good fit with the body.

The trunk weather strip was installed to trunk lid inner lip with the seam (ends) located at the bottom center, near the latch mechanism. 56-57 Technical Information Manual.

From personal experience on my 57, if you actually want it to seal you may have to custom fit. That is, verify the weather strip is actually in "good contact" all the way around.
I had to add material to "make the weather strip thicker" on a lower corner. The material I added was a piece of weather strip with the thick edge trimmed off. You would get judging deductions for that. I wanted a good seal because we drive the car.

I suggest you buy the NCRS technical manual for your car. It has lots of details like this.

Verle

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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how many body bolt downs (body to frame) are there

-Sharon

From: Chip Westein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

The answer is 12. 13
  if you count the spare tire hold down bolt.

Chip Werstein

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  According to the GM Manual: 1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide page 1-47:  
   
    The underbody attaches to the frame body mounting brackets at ten locations (fig.103).
    The ten body bolts and washers are installed from the top side of the underbody.

Verle

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I have been spending time getting our 1961 Corvette roadworthy again.  I ended up taking the tach and speedometer out of the car and having a rebuild of them from D&M Restoration in Greenville, SC.  Very happy with their work.

The issue I have now is that the tach is not reading correctly and is reading high through all revs.  My question is about the pulley on the generator.  I have a 3 5/8” diameter pulley on the generator.  I am thinking that the 4” pulley would bring the RPM’s down and make the reading more accurate.

Am I on the right track here?

Rob

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  The mechanical tachs are similar to the speedometer, they can be calibrated internally.
You might talk to D&M about it.

When I had my tach rebuilt I talked to them about calibration and they verified it.

How do you know the tach is not reading correctly? Have you compared it to another (electric) tach?
I would try to verify the tach reading before doing anything.

Changing the pulley size would adversely effect the generator output.

Verle

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter:

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Brad Bean, SACC President:

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From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP and  Advisor:  Does the gauge not move at all? Is there fuel in the tank?

The gauge is hot all the time. It should have 12 V. Check that first.

The "sending unit" is just a variable ground.
Check for 12 V to the sending unit. If the key is on and the battery is good there should be 12 V. If not 12 V, check the wire for damage. Make sure the connection on the Gauge is clean.
Ground the wire where it connects to the sending unit. The gauge should show empty.
The tank must have a good ground to the frame or some other place that is grounded to the battery.




Are you talking about larger diameter wheels or just wider wheels.

I have 15X7 with 215 70 15s. They look good and work good, don't rub. 57 Corvette.

I have no experience with wheels larger than 15"

Verle

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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Howdy, this is Darrell 1959 C1

I am looking for some guidance to the right direction to get the interior done my 59. It has been a complete body off restoration and I am not sure where to start with ordering interior kits, supplies and such. I will need foam for seats, carpet, and anything else needed for a 59.

Can anyone give me a direction or where is the best place to get interion supplies?

From: Brad Bean, SACC president:  

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Hi Darrell

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Craig:  The early FI units (prior to 1958) had an electric solenoid attached to an arm that, when activated by the car's starter circuit, caused full enrichment from the spill valve to assist in starting the car.  The solenoid is only activated while the starter is cranking.  When the starter is released by the ignition key the solenoid is disabled and the FI unit operates in the normal mode without starting enrichment.  The purpose of the micro switch is to disable the solenoid during engine cranking if the engine is flooded by flooring the gas pedal as you would with a carburetor.  This is process is called "unloading".  Evidently your unit is mis-wired so that the starting solenoid is always activated when the car is running or starting, causing a very rich situation when the car is running.  That is why you are having to activate the micro switch with a piece of cardboard to disable the solenoid.  You need to correct your wiring error by connecting the FI unit starting solenoid to the starter solenoid circuit and not the car's 12 volt battery.

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I’m looking for a template or dimensions to position the flags and “fuel Injection" insignia (coves and trunk lid) on my 1957 Corvette.  Do you know where I can find that information?  The mounting holes were eliminated when the car body was restored.  Thanks!
>
> Bill

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Bill,
Before you start drilling new holes, clean the back side of the cove panels down to the clean fiberglass. If it was really a fuelie, the holes filled with bondo are most likely still there.

Re-drill from the back side using as small a drill bit as possible then clean out the original hole with a slightly larger drill bit or small round file from outside the car.

Don't punch it out with a hole punch from the inside because that will blow out a large hole in your paint.

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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I just found your website and have an issue with my 62 Corvette. I
purchased the car in 1975 and have significantly restored it. I have
not, however, done anything to the transmission. It had a Hurst shifter
installed when I bought it. Lately it tends to 'lock-up' on the 2-3
shift and get 'stuck' in 2nd. Crawling  under the car and wiggling the 2
levers from the transmission will usually free it, but I can never tell
which wiggle does the trick. Is this a tranny problem or a Hurst
problem? Any suggestions?

Thanks so much.

--
Fair Winds,
Mark

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Solid Axle Corvette Club:

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Dear Solid Axle Club,

I have a 1957 Corvette with an original Rochester Fuel injection. I bought car In 1995 after a frame off restoration started in 1991.

The fuel injection was restored in that time frame. It basically has been running great since. Last week I noticed a strong gas smell

and noticed a lot of gas pooled on intake manifold. I cleaned up and haven't started since. Does this sound like a unit leak?

I'm taking it to my local rod mechanic Monday just to make sure it's not coming from somewhere else.

Can you recommend someone located near me who can repair or rebuild unit if necessary. I'm located in Temecula Valley.

I'm not a member but know several of your members especially Walden Dahl who has done lots of work on this car. I'm waiting

a return call from him. Also if you know any tech sites that might explain problem.

Thank You

Ron

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Hi Guys, you been a great help in the past and I’m hoping you can give me assistance with my sun visors?

 I purchased a new set of sun visors from Corvette America.  The sun visors have a seam around the entire perimeter where the vinyl meets.  There are no predetermined holes for the mounting rods which must go into the sun visor.  When I called Corvette America for technical help they had no answer and suggested I ask a form.  Can you please help me in how to best create the hole in the sun visor to insert the rod?

 Thanks again for your help,

 RS

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:

Roger,

The assumption by the aftermarket manufacturer & vendors is that you have existing sun visors that you use as a model for fitting your new hardware kit into your new sun visors. They fit exactly the same way.

I would use a blind hole locator punch from my screwdriver set to locate the holes in the visor inner structure & penetrate the vinyl.

I'm certain that Paragon https://www.paragoncorvette.com/ would be more than happy to fit new hardware to your visors if you or a local shop are unable to handle it.

Good luck with your project,

Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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Hello,

 I have 61 Corvette, my question is that my rear license plate does not work. I have power to the socket and the bulb is good.
I have notice that there is no ground to the light. Do I need a ground ? If so how do I wire it. I have looked for diagram on the internet no luck.
 Regards,

                Glenn

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

Glenn,

The license plate light is grounded using the same wiring harness as the rear stop lights.

Check out page 66 of Paragon's C-1 catalog for a picture. https://www.paragoncorvette.com

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

there is no wire coming out of the harness, I need to run ground wire from the light to ?

I have power at the socket

(From Bill Huffman)        All Corvette electrical equipment (lights, gauges,tank sending unit, radio, battery, WS wiper, etc.) are grounded to the frame / chassis.
Somehow the ground lead has broken or been cut. So open the rear light harness cable covering (tape), find the ground wire (use a meter to verify continuity to the chassis), splice in an extension wire and connect the ground to the lamp housing. Consult your local Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone for help.

Or buy a new rear light wiring harness (Corvette Central P/N 661325).

Or buy a new rear light wiring harness  (Paragon P/N 5319).

BTW- Get yourself a 1961 Corvette assembly manual CC or Paragon or Mid-America.

It answers most, if not all, your questions about your '61.

Good luck,

Bill Huffman                      

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From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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Good morning:
Would we have a diagram of wiring generator/regulator and distributor with tach drive gen on 1961 corvette?

Harold

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Greetings!
I’ve recently installed a power rack and pinion steering system in my ’62 Corvette. I removed the serial number tag from the original column after taking a picture of it in position. I contacted our county’s Ohio State Highway Patrol office, and the Sgt there is willing to work with me on properly documenting the repositioning of the s/n tag to the driver’s door post.

I’m curious if you have any photos of 1959 and earlier C1s with the tag location on the door post, so I can duplicate the position as closely as possible. The local Sgt actually suggested positioning the tag on the door post, as opposed to the cowl near the steering column, saying he has seen many early Corvettes with them there. He was not aware of the ’62 tag being located on the column.

Once I have a photo of a door post-mounted tag, I need to take the car to the local Post, where they will write me a letter explaining why the tag is not in its original position.  Ant help will be appreciated.

Regards,
Dave

From: Joe LeMay, Socal Chapter Advisor:  This is an NCRS article that relates to California, but should be a good guide for use in any state.

VIN Verification

Joe LeMay (55193)

(Although the process applies to any car, it was specifically for my 1957)

There are some words and phrases that we in NCRS really like.  They are things like: typical, appears to be factory applied materials, casting date within 6 months of production date, Top Flight, Duntov.

There are other words and phrases that we in NCRS do not like.  Not typical, wrong, incorrect, “not lacquer,” and the worst one- counterfeit.  Counterfeit can really get you in trouble.

You so proudly show up with your car for a judging meet for flight judging, sportsman, or just to be there.  Someone looked at your VIN tag with an opinion “this is not the VIN tag that was issued and installed at the factory.  St. Louis did not use that one.”  You are informed that your VIN tag is not the typical factory VIN tag.  It is a counterfeit. 

The part of the Judging Reference Manual that applies to the VIN tag reads:

“The car must have the correct attached Chevrolet factory Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) plate or an attached valid state-approved replacement ID plate that matches title and/or registration.  ….. Any car appearing without identification as described shall be ineligible for any NCRS judging.”

So what needs to happen now?  It is really simple.  There are two options. 
1. Just show your car with a bad VIN tag to the California Highway Patrol.  They will look at it.  Then they take your car away and you never get it back.  That is it.  Never to be seen again.  Only the pictures remain.  Judged again?  You just want to drive it again!
2. Keep the car.  Send a letter to the NCRS.  Tell them they will never see your car again.  You are through.

No those are the wrong approaches.  You have a VIN tag that looks like this (photo).  Looks good, right?  It is the tag that came with the car, right?  You bought it that way.  You have a CA title.  The registration is current and you legitimately drive the car on the street.

The process with this counterfeit mess is much simpler and you will not lose your car.  The resolution is clearly stated in the JRM.  You need to get your VIN verified with a state-approved replacement ID plate.  The process can sound scary.  The reality is something different.  Here is what you do in California.

During the assembly process in the St. Louis plant, the VIN number was stamped on the frame.  On a C1, the VIN number is stamped twice on the frame.  The frame stamps are on the top side of the frame right below the driver seat, about half way along the door.  Then during body drop, the corresponding VIN tag was attached to the body. 

Although there is a VIN tag attached to the body, the true VIN number for the car is associated with the number stamped on the frame.  During restoration or collision repair, if the body or frame is changed, the VIN tag that matches the frame stamp is to be used.

If the body is replaced, the VIN tag that matches the frame must be installed on the replacement body.  Nothing changes.  If however the frame is replaced, the VIN tag that matches that frame must be used.  Your VIN has changed.  You need a clean title for that replacement frame to be installed.  Your car will now have a new VIN, new title, and new registration.

You will not be able to see the VIN on the frame with the body firmly bolted to the frame.  How do you see the frame stamp and get a photo of the frame stamp?  You may need this information if you want to be certain this old car that changed hands so often is what your paperwork says it is.

Here is the process to see the frame stamp and get a photo of it.  Unloosen all the nuts for the body bolts a few turns.  There are two at the radiator support, four on each side under the body (8 total), and the two in the rear in the fender wells.  Now, remove the four nuts under the body on the left side.  Place a 2x4 wooden block on the body floor just outboard the frame.  This is where the outer seat bolts are located.  Ensure the block is long enough to support the weight of the body without cracking the floor.  Jack up the body an inch, creating space between the body and the frame.  The body will move.  Just do not go too far.

Now find the VIN frame stamp.  It should be about in the midpoint of the door.  You may need to clean the top of the frame to remove dirt, etc.  Use a mirror placed and held against the body.  Reflect a light onto the frame.  You should see both VIN stamps.  They are only a couple of inches apart.

Take a few photos of both VINs stamped on the frame.  I taped a mirror to the body to hold it in place.  It could take some experimenting with the angle and intensity of the light and the camera to be used.  The camera needs to be able to focus very close to the object.  I had more success with an iPhone 5S than a digital camera.  I may not have had a macro setting on the camera?

So now what do you need to do?  Gather all the information you may have on the car.  It could be the current title, and any past titles that you have as a record.  You have your registration, license and insurance card.  You have a photo of your VIN tag, and the photos of the VIN frame stamps. 

Make copies of all this information.  You will be submitting the copies.  I did not have any of this information returned to me, so do not provide original documents.  Call your local CHP to make an appointment to have your VIN verified.  They do this all the time and it is not some crazy request.  You will most likely meet others at the CHP office doing the same thing.  When I was there, a guy had inherited his mother’s car from Georgia, it had been repaired and the VIN tag was missing.

Go to the CHP office for your scheduled appointment.  They will take all your paperwork, and take your car behind a fenced area to complete the process.  They will drill two holes for the rivets to attach their replacement ID plate to your door frame.  Their ID plate number will match the VIN tag and the current title.  They will also provide you with a copy of an Application for Vehicle Assigned Identification Number Plate.  That is their record of the replacement ID plate.

I requested they not mount their replacement ID plate to the space where the original VIN tag was located.  They added theirs below the original area.  I did not want to lose the original look of the VIN tag.  A potential new owner may want to see that tag.  The entire process took an hour and was very easy to do.  Here is the final product.

One more thing; If you are going to have your car judged (which is why I went through this exercise), remove your ‘counterfeit’ VIN tag before it is presented for judging.  NCRS does not want to see that non-original on the judging field, but the replacement ID plate meets all of their requirements.

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Need help! Would like to get information on the alignment and how to DIY recover the cloth top on my 58 if anyone has DVDs or step by step  instructions I would appreciate it very much there doesn't seem to be anyone in my area that knows how at a reasonable price so once again I get to do it myself thanks!

From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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I have a 1960 FI and it has windshield washer system. I am in need of a wiring schematic ( rubber hoses)  for the 60Vet. 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:      

Ron,   

Page 73 of Paragon Reproductions C-1 catalogue shows the fuel injection windshield washer set-up. However, it appears to be a smaller copy of a drawing contained in the GM 1960 Corvette Assembly Manual which is really what you need to get. It's available from any of your favorite Corvette parts vendors.

Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President

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I have a 1960 with a reproduction steering wheel. I need a high quality Red replacement or a place that can repair the original which has cracked at the spokes.

 Can you help?

 Tom

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Tom:

If it is top flight or Duntov material, Richard Dunham is your guy. He is an NCRS Judge & SACC Member from Michigan who restores original steering wheels. It's not cheap...he offered to upgrade my '60 wheel last year for $1000.
 

If your car is similar to mine, a really nice driver I've owned for 51 years and don't plan on selling , Corvette Central or Paragon and a half dozen others sell quality reproduction wheel kits for less than $500.
 

 Regards,
 

Bill Huffman, Pres.
 

Michigan Chapter SACC

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Hello,

 I have a question about my 1960 roadster.  When the convertible roof is folded and the rear deck closed, the fit is terrible.  The rear deck sits about an inch above the rest of the car!  I’ve attempted to adjust the roof with no luck.  If you can provide any help with respect to getting a better fit I’d very much appreciate it.

 My apologies for the email signature…a guy has to work!!

 Rog

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President:  

I recommend changing to an LED assembly, not just changing the bulb. The assemblies are much brighter than the bulbs alone. One source for an acceptable unit is Corvette Central part #492138. A word of caution: If you're changing the front parking lights to LED, as well, you will need an LED flasher or equalizer. If you leave your front parking lights with the original type incandescent bulbs, you won't have to change the flasher. (The LEDs pull so much less current that the existing flasher won't function without a fake load on it)

Bill Preston

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Hi Folks !

Love my ’62 but frustrated with the audibles when rough road causes both doors to rattle.  Think I could repair/replace cause but would appreciate knowing beforehand what parts are usually at fault and what is required to effect repairs to make it nice and tight again.  Any words, books, articles, videos would be helpful.

Thank-you,

Gary

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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1962 fuelie of 340 hp,was my dad's car,6500 rpm tech and finned brake drum. how can I tell if was f.i. or carburetor car.brother in law stored it on dirt floor pole barn last 15years.has 350 and 4 speed, in#20867S102053.any information would be great. thanks p.s. Brother in law wants to buy high tech chassis and motor, power steering, and disc brakes ,I want to keep original frame and finned drum brakes.

From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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Will the Wonderbar radio from 1958 and 1959 corvette will fit a 1960 corvette? What is the value of a totally restored radio?

Thanks

Jeff

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

Jeff,

The wonderbar radios will fit the same but the knobs were sometimes different from one year to the next.

Both my wonderbar radios (and my clocks) were repaired be Corvette Clocks by Roger in Jackson, TN http://www.corvetteclocks.com/   I would call him regarding current value & repair.

From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President:  The 2 top stainless trim pieces above the glove box door on a 56 must be snapped onto  2 NSS clips on each side that are mounted directly to the fiberglass with sheet metal type screws  (with the friction clip toward the sides), These trim pieces are closed on both ends making it necessary for you to snap them onto both the clips from the inside toward the outside. I use masking tape on the paint that will be exposed once the trim is in place. Don't put the tape under where the trim piece will be because you can't get it out once the trim piece is on.

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From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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Can a guy remove the engine without removing 4 speed gearbox?  Thanks,  Dave. 4053

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Can a guy remove the engine without removing 4 speed gearbox?  Thanks,  Dave. 4053

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Can you tell me the correct length of the drive shaft for a 1960 corvette? I have an auto transmission and looks like a lot of the transmission shaft still showing.
Thanks 
Jeff

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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My 62 vette tach cable broke, I believe this to be the original cable, this is a 340 hp 4 speed with a distributor driven tach I measured it at 41.5 inches, all the replacements are 32 inches?

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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What happens if you don't use the lower clean air tube to the carburetor?  My car seems to run fine without it.

For many years, I’ve had trouble with the choking sticking in the open position.  Just wondering if this could be the cause.  Just had the carb rebuilt.  It’s super clean but the choke still sticks.  I’ve heard that the choke housing sometimes warps for some reason.  Maybe it gets too hot.

Chuck

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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I need to replace the trunk lock on my corvette.i am having a problem attaching the retainer clip. Do I need to remove the trunk emblem to get better access to the lock?
-Jim

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Jim,
It is not necessary to remove the emblem to reset the trunk lock...But it certainly makes it easier to see what you're doing.
However, replacement parts can be "similar to" as opposed to being "identical to" the OEM part.
It may be possible for a locksmith to rebuild your original lock rather than replace it.
Make sure the replacement is "identical to" the original lock, dry fit the retainer to both new & old outside the car to check fits. If the trunk lid lock area has been repaired, that may explain why the fit is difficult and may have to be adjusted.

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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The folks that rebuilt my Carter carburetor say adamantly that with new oxygenated fuels the fuel pressure should not exceed 3 PSI.  They recommend a holly in line regulator.   Also timing set at 30 degrees at 3000 rpm.  Any thoughts?  Thanks again, Dave.   4053.

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

Dave,

Speaking for myself only, every older Corvette brake system I have had to rebuild, wheel & master cylinders were full of rusty sludge and steel lines were rusty/rusted through. All have been replaced with new or rebuilt cylinders or callipers, SS brake lines and silicone based fluid.

Having owned the same cars for many years (one since 1968), other than pads or shoes, I have had no brake issues since switching to the silicone based fluid.

The only down-side is that dot 3 fluid is more readily available. I keep two bottles in the garage.

Regards,

Bill Huffman, Pres,

Michigan Chapter SACC

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor:  

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Bill
The clips are installed in the stainless moldings first and then the assembly is mounted to the convertible deck lid.

There is a good illistration in the 1961 assembly manual in section E sheet 4.
 

Chip Werstein  

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I have a 1960 corvette with dual 4 barrel cards and an automatic transmission .Did this model have a transmission  oil cooler in the radiator? My radiator is not set up and I do not have any lines

Thanks for your help

Jeff

From: Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer:

Due to the horsepower to weight ratio of early Corvettes they did not use a transmission cooler so the transmission itself has 2 brass plugs installed blocking the passages where lines would connect. 

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I have owned my 1962 corvette (# matching) for almost 9 years and I’m going to have the second gear synchronizer replaced. My question is that I dropped the rear driveshaft from the differential, but the front slip yoke isn’t budging. I sprayed penetrating oil on it but hasn’t come lose yet. Has anyone have any ideas? I don’t want to damage my T10.

Thanks
Kevin

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter advisor:  For some reason, GM decided in model year 1962, to add a ¼ inch spacer between the transmission mount and the tail shaft.  I surmise that GM wanted to cut down on the drive shaft angle for some reason but you must install this special spacer if you want to add a Muncie for speed transmission. All 62 C1s had this special spacer. I worked on a 56 C1 years ago and I pulled the motor and transmission and could not get the drive shaft splines/yoke splines to line up when I went to reinstall the drive shaft in the transmission.  56 C1s had a metal protection plate in the transmission tunnel and this was my problem in getting the yoke and output shaft splines to line up.  Lowering the transmission a little bit solved the problem and everything went together and worked just fine.  Maybe try lowing the transmission at the transmission mount will allow the yoke to come out easily…..give it a try before beating on the transmission drive shaft as you will have to remove the transmission mount to remove the transmission in the first place.  Good luck with this problem.

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter advisor:

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I have a 59 corvette that is supposed to be original but the engine ID stamp is SAW903. I am stumped! My understanding is it should start with “F” or “T”. Casting # is 3794226 D2463 on the block, and the intake casting# is3746829  C69. I am a new member and could use your help.
Thx,
Lou

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Louis,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but....an engine with the engine suffix SA and a casting date of D2463 is most likely a 250 HP 327 from a 1963 Chevy B body Passenger car w/ automatic & A/C. Casting date was April 24, 1963.
Your casting number should be 3756519 and a cast date at least two-three weeks prior to your car's build date.
The intake manifold is the cast iron for the 283 cu-in 230 HP w/4-barrel Carter WCFB carb.   The cast is March 6, 1959 & may be original depending on your vehicle build date. Build dates are calculated fairly acurately in the NCRS Corvette Birth-order book from the VIN number.
You might get lucky & find the car build date on the distributor tag on the vertical shaft just below the distributor cap, if it is actually the original distributor. The 230 HP distributor P/N was 1110946."
A Corvette 230 HP/ 283 cu-in from 1959 MY would have a stamped code of Prefix letter "F", (month A-L because letter I was not used for Sept), day (1-31), year (8 or 9), application Suffix letters "CQ".

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

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To prevent  front wheel bearing early damage what is the dimension of offset that one should be looking for?  Would it be zero and how are these measurements described?  Thanks, Dave.  4053.

From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I'm restoring a 1962 corvette and have a paint question. Center section to the under body fiberglass is supposed to be un-painted, there is an extreme amount of grease from the driveshaft,
I'm concerned that the grease may have stained the fiberglass. How does this impact the judging if i can't get the stain removed. Also any ideas on how to remove the stain.
your help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Rick