Technical Help from the Solid Axle Corvette Club

To submit a technical question regarding a 1953 to 1962 Corvette, simply email
sacctech@solidaxle.org

*Note: If you are using an Apple iPhone, you will have to hold down on the blue letters. Then a box comes up and you 
will need to select "New Mail Message".  You should be fine then, your email question will go to it's intended mailbox.

*In the subject box you need to put "sacctech/ (your SACC
membership number)".  Example: sacctech/1234
If you are not a member, your question will not be excluded, however, it won't get priority.

Disclaimer:
Our officers enjoy answering questions about your Corvette. Please keep in mind before asking questions that we are not qualified or certified to diagnose problems you may be experiencing with your Corvette. It is recommended that an A.S.E. (Automotive Service Excellence) certified automotive technician diagnose the vehicle for you. This way you get an accurate diagnoses on the problem and an understanding of the parts necessary to remedy the problem.  The experts render opinions.  Remember, the Solid Axle Corvette Club does not endorse any supplier, manufacturer, or place of repair.

Keep in mind that members enjoy a wealth of information via the SACC quarterly magazine, On Solid Ground.  Here are some of the topics contained in the Spring, 2008 issue:

-Insulate Your Solid Axle

-1956 Goodyear Corvette

-Harmonic Balancer Re-Install

-Six Cylinder Corner

-Will We Need NOS Engine Oil for out Old Cars?

-The Willet Run Garage

-The Marketplace - Member Classified

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08/03/2020

1958 Corvette.  Parking brake  issues, parked with parking brake off since 1977.  

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07/30/2020

> I would like to purchase a 1956 trunk lid from someone
> Do you know anyone?
>
> Thanks
> Rob

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter Advisor:  Rob,
This should be real easy.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/body-frame/fiberglass-rear/56-60-trunk-lid-press-moulded-141093?returnurl=%2fc1-53-62%2fbody-frame%2ffiberglass-rear%2f%3fcount%3d27'
Ecklers, Chicago Corvette, Mid-America, et al sell the same parts.

If you're looking for an original, Paragon has one. https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-349779-trunk-lid.aspx

Otherwise, hit the internet and remember- Condition, Condition, Condition. The better it is, the more it costs.
Good luck.
Bill

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07/28/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Book:  The chrome bezel goes on the outside surface.  On the inside surface, the order is:  Gasket, emblem, and backing plate.  There are special self threading winged nuts to hold everything together.  Pre-thread the special winged nuts on the three studs on the bezel to make it easier to install them with the bezel in place.  Corvette Central sells a special tool to tighten these nuts, which you really need.  They do make a PAL self threading nut with a hex head which is a lot easier to use, but it will not pass NCRS judging.

Larry Pearson 

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07/23/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  See illustration.  Shoulder bolt is Paragon Corvette P/N 628K ($10.00).

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Don:  The bushing assembly consists of an outer sleeve that is pressed into the cross shaft with the shoulder directed toward the engine, a rubber insulator, and an inner bushing.  In my experience with my two 62's, the rubber part rapidly disintegrates leaving the inner bushing in direct contact with the outer metal sleeve. This is particularly the case if you are using a high performance Borg & Beck pressure plate which takes lots of pedal pressure to activate.  I have found that it works fine without the rubber part.  It makes me wonder if the original factory part used a more durable rubber compound than the service replacement units.

If this bothers you, I strongly suggest that you purchase a replacement bushing kit from Danchuck, the 55-57 Chevy parts supplier.  Go online to see it.  Their catalog number is #345, and it currently costs $16.95.  The heart of their bushing kit is two identical bushings custom made of Delrin plastic.  These do not press into the cross shaft, they install with one on each side of the cross shaft hole in place of the original pressed in outer sleeve.  Nothing is pressed in, so it is easy to service if it wears out.  You must remove the old outer sleeve to make room for this kit.  I have been using one of these kits for about 25 years in my "beater" 62 and have had no problems with it at all.  Of course it will not pass NCRS judging.

Larry Pearson

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07/22/2020

Hi!
Would like to know the exact measurements for placement of the front badge on my 1960.
Bought the car with 61 emblems.
VIN says it is a 1960.
Getting painted and the painter needs to know the placement to make the hole for the correct emblem.
Thanks! Any help is appreciated.
Cindy

From:  Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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07/19/2020

I recently changed the engine oil and filter on my 1961 Corvette and have noticed a slight oil leakage at the oil filter canister bolt head.   Do you know of a way to eliminate this leakage?  I don’t remember leakage at this location prior to the oil change.  I am fairly certain I have sufficient torque on the bolt and have observed no oil leaking at the cannister to engine interface.  The canister assembly is fairly new (Purchased from Paragon in 2004).   The original canister bolt to canister was not integral (Bolt was not attached to the cannister).  So I replaced it with the Paragon canister assembly.
> Thank you,
> Mike

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Mike,

The original style oil filter cannister can be a leakers delight if not installed properly. The rubber square x-section sealing ring at the top has to be seated flat without twisting or humps plus the cannister needs to be installed straight & perpendicular to the engine block sealing surface. The original detachable cannister bolt should have had a seal under the bolt head flange to keep the oil from leaking out the bottom.
Your integral bolt cannister should have either a seal under the bolt flange or sealing grooves formed on the underside of the bolt flange.
Paragon has very helpful customer service people. Since you are local, why not give them a call at 800-882-4688. I'm sure they would be happy to help you.

Regards,
Bill Huffman, pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC
solidaxlecorvettemi.com

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Mike:  The original bolt was held in place with the canister shell with a spring on the inside of the canister.  The bolt did not come out separately from the canister, they are held together.  If the leak is at the bolt head interface with the canister shell, see if you can work some Teflon pipe thread sealer tape between the bolt head and the canister shell.  This very likely will stop the leak.

On the other end, whenever I change the filter cartridge, I remove the aluminum "O" ring retainer to remove the old O-ring at the top end.  It is difficult to remove the old rubber O-ring without doing this.

To make the oil filter change a lot less messy, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the canister and threaded it for a 1/8 pipe plug.  There is enough metal thickness here for the plug to seal and not leak.  I use Teflon tape on the plug threads and never have had a leak.  This allows me to completely drain the old oil out of the canister so when I remove it there is no hot oil running down my arm and onto my driveway.  I only change the filter element every other time I change the oil, and this allows me to easily drain the old oil out of the canister.  Of course this will fail in NCRS judging if the judges see it.

Larry Pearson

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07/17/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  To remove the cross shaft requires releasing the tension on the cross shaft helper spring.  I have always placed a pair of large vicegrip  pliers (or medium pipe wrench) on the cross shaft itself, released the clutch push rod from the cross shaft and allowed the cross shaft to rotate and relax the spring.  Once the spring is removed - disassemble of the cross shaft is an easy task.  take caution here - the cross shaft spring is stout - have a good grip on the cross shaft with your pliers - make sure you can rotate and hold the shaft with the pliers before removing the clutch push rod.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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07/08/2020

From: Verle Randolph, Red River VP:

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07/07/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  My 58 has the VIN stamped on the frame.  It is located under the driver's seat area on the top of the frame.  Depending on how much space you have between the frame and underbody, you can see it with  a light and mirror.

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  I checked my VIN stamp on a 1957.  It is located at midlength of the door.  You will need to loosen all the body bolts (12), and remove the five- left side nuts.  Put a 18" piece of 2X4 on the floor between the frame and rocker panel.  Jack up the body about 1 1/2 inches.  Clean the top of the frame in that area and use a mirror taped to the floor under the frame rail.  With the correct lighting, you should be able to take photos.

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Does the car have the original engine? If so the last 5 digits of the vin will be stamped on the pad along with the engine assembly date.
However, with the tag missing it may have been a theft recovery and the original engine may be long gone.

Chip Werstein .

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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7/01/2020

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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06/24/20

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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06/14/2020

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  

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06/13/2020

I just put a new clutch pressure plate and flywheel in my 62 Vette. I have the transmission about 1 inch from being up to the bell housing and it is hung up. Any help?

From: Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:  The usual problem is misalignment of the clutch plate. If it is not accurately centered on the throw out bearing the input shaft will hold the transmission an inch away.
This is how many transmission ears are broken, someone tries to pull the transmission to the bell housing with the bolts.

Remove the transmission and look through the center of the hole and look at the clutch plate hole and the throw out bearing alignment.

Solution is to remove bell housing, loosen the clutch plate bolts until you can move the clutch plate and center it. The alignment tool that comes with the clutch kit is usually plastic and does not do a good job of centering. It often (usually???) allows the clutch plate to slip down just enough to cause your problem.

If you have an input shaft from any Chevrolet standard transmission they work better. If not, do your best to center the clutch plate with the alignment tool as you tighten the lower two bolts a little. Move the tool in and out. when centered it should move fairly easy. Keep doing this as you tighten bolts around the clutch plate to make sure the tool moves. Also, remove the tool and inspect the alignment visually.

It is a bother but it must be done.

I have bought many very good 4-speeds with broken ears for a cheap price.

Verle

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Lee,
you changed the flywheel. Did you check to make sure the nose bushing fit the transmission input shaft?
1 inch is about the depth of the nose bushing.

If you did and it fit, does the clutch spline fit the input shaft freely or was it sticky/tight?

Is the clutch spline symmetrical relative to the plates?  If not, the new clutch plate could be backward.

Did you use an input shaft installation tool to align the flywheel/bushing/ clutch plate/pressure plate assembly before tightening & torqueing the pressure plate to the flywheel?

Good luck on your installation R & R,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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06/09/2020

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  I have had this problem before on a Solid Axle and another vehicle.
One thing that helped me was to remove the zerk and squirt some lubricating oil in the hole. Jack car up, remove tire, jack stand support. I found better results by squirting oil several times over two or three days.

My theory is the grease  hardens over time, possibly by losing volatile ingredients. The lubricating oil softens the grease making things work better and allowing grease to be added through the zerk.

Only other option I know is to dismantle and redo.

Verle

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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06/08/2020

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From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  Even if you open Block Drains (if you have them) you don't completely drain the block.  If you're wanting to remove all the old coolant, you have to flush the block.  This will dilute what coolant is remaining in the block and if you flush it long enough - replace the residual coolant with clear water.  When adding coolant back - simply anticipate the amount of clear water in the block to establish your desired concentration of coolant-to-water.

Note: Heater core will hold 1 Qt. 

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  When filling an empty radiator and block you will have a lot of trapped air. Pour in as much as you can. Leaving the radiator cap off, start the engine and let it run, when the thermostat opens the level will fall. Keep pouring in water/antifreeze until it is full. You may have to top off a few times. After a drive where the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Turn off, let cool down then check the water level, ad as necessary. You need to open the heater control valve so it can drain or fill.

The Corvette Servicing Guide -P 14-9 at bottom, says 16 qt w/o heater, 17 qt with heater.


Verle

From: Chip Werstein, Socal Chapter Advisor:  

Mike,

Verle is .most likely correct in his diagnosis of your problem. I have been aware of potential air lock problems when filling cooling systems for many years but have never experienced it. I drill two 1/8 inch holes  in the thermostat thin metal mounting flange. This prevents the system from being sealed up which allows trapped air to escape thereby preventing air locks. Give it a try.

Chip Werstein

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06/05/2020

My question pertains to 56-57 Corvettes, if the Saginaw transmissions were cast in Saginaw where were they assembled?, St. Louis.    Same with the rear ends casting in Detroit and assembled in St. Louis, or that is what I read somewhere who knows where do you have any info on that one?

Thanks,

Kermit 

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

There was a foundry,  Saginaw Metal Casting Operations Saginaw, Michigan  1919 , where cases were cast and assembly was done in the Saginaw Transmission Saginaw, Michigan.

    Metal casting for power trains. Engine Blocks. Crankshafts

    Manual Transmissions, Originally made the Saginaw 3 and 4-Speed manual transmissions.

The old Saginaw plant was torn down in 2019.

I believe the Corvette plant in St Louis did no major assembly on mechanical parts. Those parts, engines, transmissions, rear ends, etc came ready to be installed. The plant did add accessories to those assemblies.

Verle

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5/31/2020

From: Tom Parsons, Red River Chapter FI expert:  

The number of fresh air ducts (airboxes) built was 50. THERE IS NO SURVIVING GM DRAWINGS OR DOCUMENTATION FOR THEIR CONSTRUCTION, BECAUSE IT GOT DISPOSED OF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Per Ken Kayser. What a shame!!!!!!!!!! Even though 50 airbox ducts were fabricated, only 43 cars were built with an airbox FI pkg. So, where did the other 7 ducts go??? Well SOME of them have been accounted for. One (a 48th car) was factory installed, BUUUUUUUUUUUT, the production order was changed to a 2x4 engine (FI was removed and replaced with 2x4s) and a major portion of the duct was sawed off! (MANY years ago, 70s, it was rumored that car was in Arkansas, I never saw it) That leaves 6 unaccounted ducts. A SACC member (John Neas in Tulsa) has one of the unaccounted for ducts on his 57 FACTORY RPO 579C car. It was delivered to Rosenthal Chevrolet WITHOUT an airbox (and the tach was in the dash). About 2-3wks after delivery to Rosenthal, a complete Airbox pkg was delivered and installed on John’s car. So now that leaves 5 unaccounted for ducts that were fabricated. One of them MAY, repeat, MAY be on my 56. I just do not positively know the actual source of my airbox. I bought it about 30yrs ago from someone--------------AND IT APPEARED TO NEVER HAVE BEEN INSTALLED (NO installation holes were in it).

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5/31/2020

I have a 1962 Corvette 327 340hp 4 speed matching , the car sometimes cuts out while driving, it loses power and powers up again while driving, sometimes it looses power and just quits and will not start until it sits a while and cools down ??

What do I check ?

How do I join your organization ??

John

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  

This could be a number of problems, but from your description - I would suspect the coil.  A defective coil will often fail in one of two modes, or both; 1) the broken coil (wire coil) becomes intermittent - it will quit firing for no reason and then start firing as sudden as it stopped. 2) as it heats up it will fail and cease to fire until it cools down and remakes contact.  This is an easy fix - replace the coil and see if the problem goes away, if not at least you know you've eliminated one possibility.  All the other possibilities are not so easily fixed.  They are probably in the carburetion or fuel delivery.  Things to investigate;  does the stall occur in a turn or at a totally random time. (Left turn is carburetor), when the stall occurs - does it seem to be the lack of fuel (fuel pump, or filter) or does it seem to be flooding (restarts with footfeed floored = carb adjustment).

-John

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5/30/20

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor: 
 I don't know of any source for the Door Latch mechanism rivets.  I'm sure you could find rivets that would work from a rivet supplier, but I don't believe the new mechanisms are terribly expensive.  I would replace the whole mechanism.

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5/27/20

Steering,  I have excessive free travel when I turn all the way right or left what would cause this?

Richard

From: John Spencer, Red River Chapter Advisor:  This is a curious problem.  The steering box on a C1 is designed to have zero lash (play) at the high point (center position).  As you turn the steering the play between the worm gear and the sector shaft roller increases.  This, however, is not suppose to be excessive.  In a worn steering box it's all but gone; as you tighten the worm gear / sector shaft engagement at the high point  (where the worm gear has its most wear) to eliminate play - you decrease the designed play at the steering's extremes where the worm gear experiences less wear.  Attempting to adjust the play out of the center or high point often yields a binding of the steering at the extremes not excessive play.  I would go through the steering box adjustment procedure and verify the play exists in the steering box.  This procedure can be found in Chevrolet's Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12.  Steering adjustments are found in Section 9, the guide which can be found on-line.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:

I would do a complete inspection of the front suspension and steering.

Excessive play in steering could be any of a number of problems.

A-frame moving, tie rod ends, idler, spindle bushings, steering box....

Verle

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  You need a copy of ST-12 and a scale that will measure a pull force of 0-3 lb.  First be certain the steering wheel is centered using the indicator mark behind the horn button.  Adjust that with the drag link or tie rods.  Adjust your steering box exactly as described in ST-12.  It worked for me.

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05/20/20

I recently purchased a used front sway bar from a 1961 Corvette. I was with the understanding this should have a diameter of 1” but when I measured it the diameter is .805

Would you know the correct diameter ?

Thank you

Joe A

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter Vice President:  

From old GM parts manual, .8125 for 1960 to 1962.

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5/13/20

Sir’s,

I have a question;  Where might I find some pictures of the underside/back of the dash on my car.  And BTW I just sent my application for membership in today and was unaware of your existence as a club. 

Thanks in advance and I’m sure with your vast knowledge of several members there is a wealth of information about these cars. 

Kermit

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  If you are planning to have it look as original, 
I have a 1957 that I plan to remove the gauges and replace all the wiring connections as original
My resources are my 1957 AIM electronic file that was put together from several resources.  The
file size is huge so it cannot be sent.  There is one internet site that has them, (http://earlycorvettes.com).
1956-7 Judging Manual, and go to the NCRS Discussion Board.  You can search for photos from 
members who posted there.

Joe

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5/13/20

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  

From Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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5/12/20

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

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05/11/20

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Hi Michael:

1956 Corvette engine color is red except possibly the last few weeks of production, which may be Chevy Orange;  Manual transmissions use a cast-iron bellhousing and is painted engine color.  There were several items that were bolted to completed engine and they were painted as an assembly including the water pump, oil pan, balancer, and bell housing.  Items that were not bolted onto the assembly were many times black, such as the road draft tube and generator adjusting brace.

The red color is similar to Ford Tractor Red.

Joe

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05/10/2020

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  

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05/10/2020

From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President:  

Yes remove the emblem. You are fortunate to have that opening for the emblem to give you access

to install the retainer clip. That's the reason they designed that emblem that way. I have a 1957 and

don't have that extra room to work. It's REALLY hard to get that retainer on a 56-57.

Bill Preston

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Dear Solid Axle Corvette Club:

I hope you can help me,  The problem concerns body segment being fitted properly:  Hood adjustment so front of hood is flush with fender on 1960 corvette

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

My 1964 chevrolet master parts book lists  flywheel casting number 3729004 for all 55 thru 62 corvettes as well many other 55 thru 64 passenger cars and trucks. The actual clutch diameter is referred to as 10 or 10.5 inches. There is an 11 inch listed for 55 thru 64 passenger and trucks....cast 3714463 for hd applications, but not for corvettes.. I can not find your flywheel 3789733 listed anywhere.

Chip Werstein

From: Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:  

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Hello, I am finishing up with rebuilding my front suspension which I stopped work on seven years ago. Back when I installed the new king pins, I think that it was the owner of the machine shop that replaced my upper inner bushings in the spring towers, that suggested putting locktite on the outside of the lower king pins bushings to keep them from turning. The more I learn and the more i think about it, I think that this was probably the wrong thing to do. Can anyone tell me whether I did the right thing or wrong thing in putting locktite on those bushings? I know they call them free floating bushings. My second question is how can you tell when an upper control arm is no longer serviceable? My new bushings, when inserted into the outer side without turning in the threads and without the outer shaft in place, will go into the hole leaving a thread or two showing on the outside. They seem to tighten to the prescribed 35 foot pounds when it is assembled with the cross shaft in place. It is just that I have had it apart a few times and possibly by other owners as well. If this one side is in need of being replaced, I would rather do it at this point. I do have another control arm that I could replace it with, but it is pitted and doesn't look so nice as my one that came on the car. Thank you for all of the help.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  Ref:  1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide
         Technical Service Department
         Chevrolet Motor Division

    Installation

"When replacing the kingpin floating bushings it is not necessary to ream them to size as service bushings are machined to finish dimensions.
However, when replacing floating bushings, care should be taken to make sure the oil grooves in the bushings line up with the lubrication fitting hole in the steering knuckle.
These bushings should be free both on the kingpin and in the steering knuckle."

This would suggest that locktite is not appropriate for the bushings.

I am curious why the shop suggested locktite.

 
Verle

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hi, What color is the metal axle positraction tag? Thanks. Steve

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Steve,
It is my belief the circular tag was raw steel....possibly painted over during the blackout process. I always cad plate mine. NCRS has never deducted anything for the plating.
Chip Werstein

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Hi guys , i have a 1957 corvette and i am looking for the correct headlights . it is" a t-3"  triangle in the middle with pebble grain, on the bottom it shows " guide" on the bottom and above that it shows " sealed beam" in small letters. in 1956 it had large words " sealed beam".  can you folks help me locate 2 headlights.  

thank you 

bob  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Having a tough time locating replacement hinge pins for a 1955 Corvette. Any help appreciated.

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  Ebay vender for early Corvette parts  partsqueen responded to my message:

"New message from: partsqueen Top Rated Seller(9,765Green Star)
Hi There, I have the door hinge shims and plates and a few door hinge pins and maybe a few bushings and not many"

Her parts store is on ebay.


If you deal with her make sure to clarify what you are getting and what condition.

She often has very hard to find parts.

If the pins don't show on her store, click on a part and send message about the pins.

Verle

*Note:  From: Web Editor:  When you venture on ebay you are never sure who you are dealing with.  They may not have a lot of expertise, plus their idea of quality might not be the same as your idea of quality.  They may send you something that differs from what you asked for.  As Verle said above, make sure you verify the part and condition.

I just found another source for early parts.

http://www.carolsclassiccorvettes.com/

Lloyd Miller, a noted restorer of 53-55 Corvettes said he has had good luck with them.

I have not asked them about hinge pins. 

Another issue, 55 hinges are aluminum. You have to be careful to not break them.

Verle

(Note:  From Web Editor:  The same disclaimer noted above applies.)

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

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Hello,  
>
> I'm hoping that you might be able to help me out or possibly direct in in the right direction for some help.  I am just finishing up with a from suspension rebuild on my 1956 which has a 1957 frame.  This is a car that I have never driven incidentally.  When I got everything back together it was quite obvious that there is something wrong with the right hand side.  That side has extreme negative camber which cannot be adjusted out even with the eccentric pushed all the way out.  The hub lays back at the top about three inches. The top of the brake hub is missing the upper control arm by about a quarter of an inch.  I thought that the steering knuckle might be bent, but on examination I think that it has been replaced with with the wrong part.  It doesn't have a stop on the back side either.  It could have never had one or it could have been broken off.
>
> So here is my problem, I have another steering knuckle from a 1949 Chevrolet and and one from a 1953 Chevrolet.  I have heard that they are the same as Corvette, but I have also heard that the spindle on them comes off at 1 1/2 inches lower.  Therefore they may not be the same as Corvette.  Do you happen to know what the casting number would be for those spindles.  If i knew what the casting numbers were for Corvette, I could try to match it up with one from a passenger car.
>
> Thank you for your time and help.
>
> Best regards,
> Michael

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Cahpter Advisor:  

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

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have the frame on my 56' cleaned/primed    now, what color is closest to the original frame color    bearing in mind i will buy paint at ace   thks  gene  

From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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Looking to find correct positioning of trunk and deck lid weatherstrip on a 1958 Corvette. Been looking for hours but nothing concrete is showing. Thank You Dale

From: Verle Randolph, Red River chapter VP:  First, adjust the trunk lid to a good fit with the body.

The trunk weather strip was installed to trunk lid inner lip with the seam (ends) located at the bottom center, near the latch mechanism. 56-57 Technical Information Manual.

From personal experience on my 57, if you actually want it to seal you may have to custom fit. That is, verify the weather strip is actually in "good contact" all the way around.
I had to add material to "make the weather strip thicker" on a lower corner. The material I added was a piece of weather strip with the thick edge trimmed off. You would get judging deductions for that. I wanted a good seal because we drive the car.

I suggest you buy the NCRS technical manual for your car. It has lots of details like this.

Verle

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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how many body bolt downs (body to frame) are there

-Sharon

From: Chip Westein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

The answer is 12. 13
  if you count the spare tire hold down bolt.

Chip Werstein

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  According to the GM Manual: 1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide page 1-47:  
   
    The underbody attaches to the frame body mounting brackets at ten locations (fig.103).
    The ten body bolts and washers are installed from the top side of the underbody.

Verle

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I have been spending time getting our 1961 Corvette roadworthy again.  I ended up taking the tach and speedometer out of the car and having a rebuild of them from D&M Restoration in Greenville, SC.  Very happy with their work.

The issue I have now is that the tach is not reading correctly and is reading high through all revs.  My question is about the pulley on the generator.  I have a 3 5/8” diameter pulley on the generator.  I am thinking that the 4” pulley would bring the RPM’s down and make the reading more accurate.

Am I on the right track here?

Rob

From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP:  The mechanical tachs are similar to the speedometer, they can be calibrated internally.
You might talk to D&M about it.

When I had my tach rebuilt I talked to them about calibration and they verified it.

How do you know the tach is not reading correctly? Have you compared it to another (electric) tach?
I would try to verify the tach reading before doing anything.

Changing the pulley size would adversely effect the generator output.

Verle

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter:

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Brad Bean, SACC President:

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From: Verle Randolph, Red River Chapter VP and  Advisor:  Does the gauge not move at all? Is there fuel in the tank?

The gauge is hot all the time. It should have 12 V. Check that first.

The "sending unit" is just a variable ground.
Check for 12 V to the sending unit. If the key is on and the battery is good there should be 12 V. If not 12 V, check the wire for damage. Make sure the connection on the Gauge is clean.
Ground the wire where it connects to the sending unit. The gauge should show empty.
The tank must have a good ground to the frame or some other place that is grounded to the battery.




Are you talking about larger diameter wheels or just wider wheels.

I have 15X7 with 215 70 15s. They look good and work good, don't rub. 57 Corvette.

I have no experience with wheels larger than 15"

Verle

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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Howdy, this is Darrell 1959 C1

I am looking for some guidance to the right direction to get the interior done my 59. It has been a complete body off restoration and I am not sure where to start with ordering interior kits, supplies and such. I will need foam for seats, carpet, and anything else needed for a 59.

Can anyone give me a direction or where is the best place to get interion supplies?

From: Brad Bean, SACC president:  

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Hi Darrell

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Craig:  The early FI units (prior to 1958) had an electric solenoid attached to an arm that, when activated by the car's starter circuit, caused full enrichment from the spill valve to assist in starting the car.  The solenoid is only activated while the starter is cranking.  When the starter is released by the ignition key the solenoid is disabled and the FI unit operates in the normal mode without starting enrichment.  The purpose of the micro switch is to disable the solenoid during engine cranking if the engine is flooded by flooring the gas pedal as you would with a carburetor.  This is process is called "unloading".  Evidently your unit is mis-wired so that the starting solenoid is always activated when the car is running or starting, causing a very rich situation when the car is running.  That is why you are having to activate the micro switch with a piece of cardboard to disable the solenoid.  You need to correct your wiring error by connecting the FI unit starting solenoid to the starter solenoid circuit and not the car's 12 volt battery.

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I’m looking for a template or dimensions to position the flags and “fuel Injection" insignia (coves and trunk lid) on my 1957 Corvette.  Do you know where I can find that information?  The mounting holes were eliminated when the car body was restored.  Thanks!
>
> Bill

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Bill,
Before you start drilling new holes, clean the back side of the cove panels down to the clean fiberglass. If it was really a fuelie, the holes filled with bondo are most likely still there.

Re-drill from the back side using as small a drill bit as possible then clean out the original hole with a slightly larger drill bit or small round file from outside the car.

Don't punch it out with a hole punch from the inside because that will blow out a large hole in your paint.

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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I just found your website and have an issue with my 62 Corvette. I
purchased the car in 1975 and have significantly restored it. I have
not, however, done anything to the transmission. It had a Hurst shifter
installed when I bought it. Lately it tends to 'lock-up' on the 2-3
shift and get 'stuck' in 2nd. Crawling  under the car and wiggling the 2
levers from the transmission will usually free it, but I can never tell
which wiggle does the trick. Is this a tranny problem or a Hurst
problem? Any suggestions?

Thanks so much.

--
Fair Winds,
Mark

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Solid Axle Corvette Club:

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Dear Solid Axle Club,

I have a 1957 Corvette with an original Rochester Fuel injection. I bought car In 1995 after a frame off restoration started in 1991.

The fuel injection was restored in that time frame. It basically has been running great since. Last week I noticed a strong gas smell

and noticed a lot of gas pooled on intake manifold. I cleaned up and haven't started since. Does this sound like a unit leak?

I'm taking it to my local rod mechanic Monday just to make sure it's not coming from somewhere else.

Can you recommend someone located near me who can repair or rebuild unit if necessary. I'm located in Temecula Valley.

I'm not a member but know several of your members especially Walden Dahl who has done lots of work on this car. I'm waiting

a return call from him. Also if you know any tech sites that might explain problem.

Thank You

Ron

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Hi Guys, you been a great help in the past and I’m hoping you can give me assistance with my sun visors?

 I purchased a new set of sun visors from Corvette America.  The sun visors have a seam around the entire perimeter where the vinyl meets.  There are no predetermined holes for the mounting rods which must go into the sun visor.  When I called Corvette America for technical help they had no answer and suggested I ask a form.  Can you please help me in how to best create the hole in the sun visor to insert the rod?

 Thanks again for your help,

 RS

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:

Roger,

The assumption by the aftermarket manufacturer & vendors is that you have existing sun visors that you use as a model for fitting your new hardware kit into your new sun visors. They fit exactly the same way.

I would use a blind hole locator punch from my screwdriver set to locate the holes in the visor inner structure & penetrate the vinyl.

I'm certain that Paragon https://www.paragoncorvette.com/ would be more than happy to fit new hardware to your visors if you or a local shop are unable to handle it.

Good luck with your project,

Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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Hello,

 I have 61 Corvette, my question is that my rear license plate does not work. I have power to the socket and the bulb is good.
I have notice that there is no ground to the light. Do I need a ground ? If so how do I wire it. I have looked for diagram on the internet no luck.
 Regards,

                Glenn

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

Glenn,

The license plate light is grounded using the same wiring harness as the rear stop lights.

Check out page 66 of Paragon's C-1 catalog for a picture. https://www.paragoncorvette.com

Bill Huffman, Pres.

Michigan Chapter SACC

there is no wire coming out of the harness, I need to run ground wire from the light to ?

I have power at the socket

(From Bill Huffman)        All Corvette electrical equipment (lights, gauges,tank sending unit, radio, battery, WS wiper, etc.) are grounded to the frame / chassis.
Somehow the ground lead has broken or been cut. So open the rear light harness cable covering (tape), find the ground wire (use a meter to verify continuity to the chassis), splice in an extension wire and connect the ground to the lamp housing. Consult your local Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone for help.

Or buy a new rear light wiring harness (Corvette Central P/N 661325).

Or buy a new rear light wiring harness  (Paragon P/N 5319).

BTW- Get yourself a 1961 Corvette assembly manual CC or Paragon or Mid-America.

It answers most, if not all, your questions about your '61.

Good luck,

Bill Huffman                      

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From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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Good morning:
Would we have a diagram of wiring generator/regulator and distributor with tach drive gen on 1961 corvette?

Harold

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Greetings!
I’ve recently installed a power rack and pinion steering system in my ’62 Corvette. I removed the serial number tag from the original column after taking a picture of it in position. I contacted our county’s Ohio State Highway Patrol office, and the Sgt there is willing to work with me on properly documenting the repositioning of the s/n tag to the driver’s door post.

I’m curious if you have any photos of 1959 and earlier C1s with the tag location on the door post, so I can duplicate the position as closely as possible. The local Sgt actually suggested positioning the tag on the door post, as opposed to the cowl near the steering column, saying he has seen many early Corvettes with them there. He was not aware of the ’62 tag being located on the column.

Once I have a photo of a door post-mounted tag, I need to take the car to the local Post, where they will write me a letter explaining why the tag is not in its original position.  Ant help will be appreciated.

Regards,
Dave

From: Joe LeMay, Socal Chapter Advisor:  This is an NCRS article that relates to California, but should be a good guide for use in any state.

VIN Verification

Joe LeMay (55193)

(Although the process applies to any car, it was specifically for my 1957)

There are some words and phrases that we in NCRS really like.  They are things like: typical, appears to be factory applied materials, casting date within 6 months of production date, Top Flight, Duntov.

There are other words and phrases that we in NCRS do not like.  Not typical, wrong, incorrect, “not lacquer,” and the worst one- counterfeit.  Counterfeit can really get you in trouble.

You so proudly show up with your car for a judging meet for flight judging, sportsman, or just to be there.  Someone looked at your VIN tag with an opinion “this is not the VIN tag that was issued and installed at the factory.  St. Louis did not use that one.”  You are informed that your VIN tag is not the typical factory VIN tag.  It is a counterfeit. 

The part of the Judging Reference Manual that applies to the VIN tag reads:

“The car must have the correct attached Chevrolet factory Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) plate or an attached valid state-approved replacement ID plate that matches title and/or registration.  ….. Any car appearing without identification as described shall be ineligible for any NCRS judging.”

So what needs to happen now?  It is really simple.  There are two options. 
1. Just show your car with a bad VIN tag to the California Highway Patrol.  They will look at it.  Then they take your car away and you never get it back.  That is it.  Never to be seen again.  Only the pictures remain.  Judged again?  You just want to drive it again!
2. Keep the car.  Send a letter to the NCRS.  Tell them they will never see your car again.  You are through.

No those are the wrong approaches.  You have a VIN tag that looks like this (photo).  Looks good, right?  It is the tag that came with the car, right?  You bought it that way.  You have a CA title.  The registration is current and you legitimately drive the car on the street.

The process with this counterfeit mess is much simpler and you will not lose your car.  The resolution is clearly stated in the JRM.  You need to get your VIN verified with a state-approved replacement ID plate.  The process can sound scary.  The reality is something different.  Here is what you do in California.

During the assembly process in the St. Louis plant, the VIN number was stamped on the frame.  On a C1, the VIN number is stamped twice on the frame.  The frame stamps are on the top side of the frame right below the driver seat, about half way along the door.  Then during body drop, the corresponding VIN tag was attached to the body. 

Although there is a VIN tag attached to the body, the true VIN number for the car is associated with the number stamped on the frame.  During restoration or collision repair, if the body or frame is changed, the VIN tag that matches the frame stamp is to be used.

If the body is replaced, the VIN tag that matches the frame must be installed on the replacement body.  Nothing changes.  If however the frame is replaced, the VIN tag that matches that frame must be used.  Your VIN has changed.  You need a clean title for that replacement frame to be installed.  Your car will now have a new VIN, new title, and new registration.

You will not be able to see the VIN on the frame with the body firmly bolted to the frame.  How do you see the frame stamp and get a photo of the frame stamp?  You may need this information if you want to be certain this old car that changed hands so often is what your paperwork says it is.

Here is the process to see the frame stamp and get a photo of it.  Unloosen all the nuts for the body bolts a few turns.  There are two at the radiator support, four on each side under the body (8 total), and the two in the rear in the fender wells.  Now, remove the four nuts under the body on the left side.  Place a 2x4 wooden block on the body floor just outboard the frame.  This is where the outer seat bolts are located.  Ensure the block is long enough to support the weight of the body without cracking the floor.  Jack up the body an inch, creating space between the body and the frame.  The body will move.  Just do not go too far.

Now find the VIN frame stamp.  It should be about in the midpoint of the door.  You may need to clean the top of the frame to remove dirt, etc.  Use a mirror placed and held against the body.  Reflect a light onto the frame.  You should see both VIN stamps.  They are only a couple of inches apart.

Take a few photos of both VINs stamped on the frame.  I taped a mirror to the body to hold it in place.  It could take some experimenting with the angle and intensity of the light and the camera to be used.  The camera needs to be able to focus very close to the object.  I had more success with an iPhone 5S than a digital camera.  I may not have had a macro setting on the camera?

So now what do you need to do?  Gather all the information you may have on the car.  It could be the current title, and any past titles that you have as a record.  You have your registration, license and insurance card.  You have a photo of your VIN tag, and the photos of the VIN frame stamps. 

Make copies of all this information.  You will be submitting the copies.  I did not have any of this information returned to me, so do not provide original documents.  Call your local CHP to make an appointment to have your VIN verified.  They do this all the time and it is not some crazy request.  You will most likely meet others at the CHP office doing the same thing.  When I was there, a guy had inherited his mother’s car from Georgia, it had been repaired and the VIN tag was missing.

Go to the CHP office for your scheduled appointment.  They will take all your paperwork, and take your car behind a fenced area to complete the process.  They will drill two holes for the rivets to attach their replacement ID plate to your door frame.  Their ID plate number will match the VIN tag and the current title.  They will also provide you with a copy of an Application for Vehicle Assigned Identification Number Plate.  That is their record of the replacement ID plate.

I requested they not mount their replacement ID plate to the space where the original VIN tag was located.  They added theirs below the original area.  I did not want to lose the original look of the VIN tag.  A potential new owner may want to see that tag.  The entire process took an hour and was very easy to do.  Here is the final product.

One more thing; If you are going to have your car judged (which is why I went through this exercise), remove your ‘counterfeit’ VIN tag before it is presented for judging.  NCRS does not want to see that non-original on the judging field, but the replacement ID plate meets all of their requirements.

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Need help! Would like to get information on the alignment and how to DIY recover the cloth top on my 58 if anyone has DVDs or step by step  instructions I would appreciate it very much there doesn't seem to be anyone in my area that knows how at a reasonable price so once again I get to do it myself thanks!

From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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I have a 1960 FI and it has windshield washer system. I am in need of a wiring schematic ( rubber hoses)  for the 60Vet. 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:      

Ron,   

Page 73 of Paragon Reproductions C-1 catalogue shows the fuel injection windshield washer set-up. However, it appears to be a smaller copy of a drawing contained in the GM 1960 Corvette Assembly Manual which is really what you need to get. It's available from any of your favorite Corvette parts vendors.

Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President

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I have a 1960 with a reproduction steering wheel. I need a high quality Red replacement or a place that can repair the original which has cracked at the spokes.

 Can you help?

 Tom

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Tom:

If it is top flight or Duntov material, Richard Dunham is your guy. He is an NCRS Judge & SACC Member from Michigan who restores original steering wheels. It's not cheap...he offered to upgrade my '60 wheel last year for $1000.
 

If your car is similar to mine, a really nice driver I've owned for 51 years and don't plan on selling , Corvette Central or Paragon and a half dozen others sell quality reproduction wheel kits for less than $500.
 

 Regards,
 

Bill Huffman, Pres.
 

Michigan Chapter SACC

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Hello,

 I have a question about my 1960 roadster.  When the convertible roof is folded and the rear deck closed, the fit is terrible.  The rear deck sits about an inch above the rest of the car!  I’ve attempted to adjust the roof with no luck.  If you can provide any help with respect to getting a better fit I’d very much appreciate it.

 My apologies for the email signature…a guy has to work!!

 Rog

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President:  

I recommend changing to an LED assembly, not just changing the bulb. The assemblies are much brighter than the bulbs alone. One source for an acceptable unit is Corvette Central part #492138. A word of caution: If you're changing the front parking lights to LED, as well, you will need an LED flasher or equalizer. If you leave your front parking lights with the original type incandescent bulbs, you won't have to change the flasher. (The LEDs pull so much less current that the existing flasher won't function without a fake load on it)

Bill Preston

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Hi Folks !

Love my ’62 but frustrated with the audibles when rough road causes both doors to rattle.  Think I could repair/replace cause but would appreciate knowing beforehand what parts are usually at fault and what is required to effect repairs to make it nice and tight again.  Any words, books, articles, videos would be helpful.

Thank-you,

Gary

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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1962 fuelie of 340 hp,was my dad's car,6500 rpm tech and finned brake drum. how can I tell if was f.i. or carburetor car.brother in law stored it on dirt floor pole barn last 15years.has 350 and 4 speed, in#20867S102053.any information would be great. thanks p.s. Brother in law wants to buy high tech chassis and motor, power steering, and disc brakes ,I want to keep original frame and finned drum brakes.

From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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Will the Wonderbar radio from 1958 and 1959 corvette will fit a 1960 corvette? What is the value of a totally restored radio?

Thanks

Jeff

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

Jeff,

The wonderbar radios will fit the same but the knobs were sometimes different from one year to the next.

Both my wonderbar radios (and my clocks) were repaired be Corvette Clocks by Roger in Jackson, TN http://www.corvetteclocks.com/   I would call him regarding current value & repair.

From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter President:  The 2 top stainless trim pieces above the glove box door on a 56 must be snapped onto  2 NSS clips on each side that are mounted directly to the fiberglass with sheet metal type screws  (with the friction clip toward the sides), These trim pieces are closed on both ends making it necessary for you to snap them onto both the clips from the inside toward the outside. I use masking tape on the paint that will be exposed once the trim is in place. Don't put the tape under where the trim piece will be because you can't get it out once the trim piece is on.

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From: Brad Bean, SACC President:  

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Can a guy remove the engine without removing 4 speed gearbox?  Thanks,  Dave. 4053

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Can a guy remove the engine without removing 4 speed gearbox?  Thanks,  Dave. 4053

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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Can you tell me the correct length of the drive shaft for a 1960 corvette? I have an auto transmission and looks like a lot of the transmission shaft still showing.
Thanks 
Jeff

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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My 62 vette tach cable broke, I believe this to be the original cable, this is a 340 hp 4 speed with a distributor driven tach I measured it at 41.5 inches, all the replacements are 32 inches?

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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What happens if you don't use the lower clean air tube to the carburetor?  My car seems to run fine without it.

For many years, I’ve had trouble with the choking sticking in the open position.  Just wondering if this could be the cause.  Just had the carb rebuilt.  It’s super clean but the choke still sticks.  I’ve heard that the choke housing sometimes warps for some reason.  Maybe it gets too hot.

Chuck

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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I need to replace the trunk lock on my corvette.i am having a problem attaching the retainer clip. Do I need to remove the trunk emblem to get better access to the lock?
-Jim

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Jim,
It is not necessary to remove the emblem to reset the trunk lock...But it certainly makes it easier to see what you're doing.
However, replacement parts can be "similar to" as opposed to being "identical to" the OEM part.
It may be possible for a locksmith to rebuild your original lock rather than replace it.
Make sure the replacement is "identical to" the original lock, dry fit the retainer to both new & old outside the car to check fits. If the trunk lid lock area has been repaired, that may explain why the fit is difficult and may have to be adjusted.

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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The folks that rebuilt my Carter carburetor say adamantly that with new oxygenated fuels the fuel pressure should not exceed 3 PSI.  They recommend a holly in line regulator.   Also timing set at 30 degrees at 3000 rpm.  Any thoughts?  Thanks again, Dave.   4053.

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary:  

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  

Dave,

Speaking for myself only, every older Corvette brake system I have had to rebuild, wheel & master cylinders were full of rusty sludge and steel lines were rusty/rusted through. All have been replaced with new or rebuilt cylinders or callipers, SS brake lines and silicone based fluid.

Having owned the same cars for many years (one since 1968), other than pads or shoes, I have had no brake issues since switching to the silicone based fluid.

The only down-side is that dot 3 fluid is more readily available. I keep two bottles in the garage.

Regards,

Bill Huffman, Pres,

Michigan Chapter SACC

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor:  

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

Bill
The clips are installed in the stainless moldings first and then the assembly is mounted to the convertible deck lid.

There is a good illistration in the 1961 assembly manual in section E sheet 4.
 

Chip Werstein  

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I have a 1960 corvette with dual 4 barrel cards and an automatic transmission .Did this model have a transmission  oil cooler in the radiator? My radiator is not set up and I do not have any lines

Thanks for your help

Jeff

From: Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer:

Due to the horsepower to weight ratio of early Corvettes they did not use a transmission cooler so the transmission itself has 2 brass plugs installed blocking the passages where lines would connect. 

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I have owned my 1962 corvette (# matching) for almost 9 years and I’m going to have the second gear synchronizer replaced. My question is that I dropped the rear driveshaft from the differential, but the front slip yoke isn’t budging. I sprayed penetrating oil on it but hasn’t come lose yet. Has anyone have any ideas? I don’t want to damage my T10.

Thanks
Kevin

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter advisor:  For some reason, GM decided in model year 1962, to add a ¼ inch spacer between the transmission mount and the tail shaft.  I surmise that GM wanted to cut down on the drive shaft angle for some reason but you must install this special spacer if you want to add a Muncie for speed transmission. All 62 C1s had this special spacer. I worked on a 56 C1 years ago and I pulled the motor and transmission and could not get the drive shaft splines/yoke splines to line up when I went to reinstall the drive shaft in the transmission.  56 C1s had a metal protection plate in the transmission tunnel and this was my problem in getting the yoke and output shaft splines to line up.  Lowering the transmission a little bit solved the problem and everything went together and worked just fine.  Maybe try lowing the transmission at the transmission mount will allow the yoke to come out easily…..give it a try before beating on the transmission drive shaft as you will have to remove the transmission mount to remove the transmission in the first place.  Good luck with this problem.

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter advisor:

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I have a 59 corvette that is supposed to be original but the engine ID stamp is SAW903. I am stumped! My understanding is it should start with “F” or “T”. Casting # is 3794226 D2463 on the block, and the intake casting# is3746829  C69. I am a new member and could use your help.
Thx,
Lou

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President:  Louis,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but....an engine with the engine suffix SA and a casting date of D2463 is most likely a 250 HP 327 from a 1963 Chevy B body Passenger car w/ automatic & A/C. Casting date was April 24, 1963.
Your casting number should be 3756519 and a cast date at least two-three weeks prior to your car's build date.
The intake manifold is the cast iron for the 283 cu-in 230 HP w/4-barrel Carter WCFB carb.   The cast is March 6, 1959 & may be original depending on your vehicle build date. Build dates are calculated fairly acurately in the NCRS Corvette Birth-order book from the VIN number.
You might get lucky & find the car build date on the distributor tag on the vertical shaft just below the distributor cap, if it is actually the original distributor. The 230 HP distributor P/N was 1110946."
A Corvette 230 HP/ 283 cu-in from 1959 MY would have a stamped code of Prefix letter "F", (month A-L because letter I was not used for Sept), day (1-31), year (8 or 9), application Suffix letters "CQ".

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

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To prevent  front wheel bearing early damage what is the dimension of offset that one should be looking for?  Would it be zero and how are these measurements described?  Thanks, Dave.  4053.

From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I'm restoring a 1962 corvette and have a paint question. Center section to the under body fiberglass is supposed to be un-painted, there is an extreme amount of grease from the driveshaft,
I'm concerned that the grease may have stained the fiberglass. How does this impact the judging if i can't get the stain removed. Also any ideas on how to remove the stain.
your help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Rick

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Rick,
 

Your question could probably best be answered in the NCRS Judging Guide for 1962 Corvettes as to whether or not the NCRS judges deduct points for grease on the bottom side of the transmission/ drive shaft.

Kind of like asking if your homeowners association can make you sell your home if your lawn has dandelions----you have to read the rule book.

However, removing the grease/stain is a different issue. Clean the underside the same as you would the engine compartment: scrape off the grease & dirt sludge with a plastic putty knife, spray on a foaming engine cleanser such as Gunk, let it work, soft bristle brush the area and rinse with a garden hose. Repeat process until you're satisfied.

Find a hoist, wear a disposable hooded poncho & have fun.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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Were the factory installed hood hinges bare metal or painted black on a 57 corvette?
>
> Doug

From: Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer:  Hood hinges, latches, and locks were all installed prior to paint and blackout process. They were cad plated and also exhibited some amount of rust inhibitor spray so even though they were sprayed black during blackout process the paint did rub off very easily.

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Hi Guys,

I had Crager G/T wheels on my 61 in the 70's and would like to put a set back on. I was going to get the American Racing Torg Thrust D wheels, 15x6 VN105D. I was going to order them from CARiD in New Jersey, but they told me they wouldn't fit my car. They couldn't tell me why when asked. Has anybody used these wheels, they are similar to the ones on the 57 on the inner cover the Winter 2018 issue. Thank you for your time.

Mike

From: Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer: 

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Hello,

I am a new member of a few months, can’t find my membership #.

 I have a 1959 that I am restoring as original and at present working on the steering. I am stumped on a simple item. The seal around the hole in the inner fire wall. Most suppliers offer 2 types of seals, a soft and a hard. Does this car take both or one or the other?

 Thanks, sorry to bother you for such a minor thing.

 Darrell

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Darrell,

The steering column outer plate & steering column outer seal are forward of the firewall. The steering column inner seal & steering column inner grommet are in the cabin behind the firewall. All 4 parts plus the attaching screws are required to seal around the steering column. Look on page 28 of Paragon Reproductions C-1 catalog for picture of the assembly.  

Good luck with your project,
 

Bill Huffman, Pres.
 

Michigan Chapter SACC

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I'm looking at a 1961 corvette with 1459 original miles. White with silver coves and red interior. This is my first attempt at buying a vet of this year and I'm not sure what is good and bad. The car was repainted but was never sanded out. All numbers match. The rubber on the door seals look new but the glue job was sloppy. The dealer said all bushings were replaced but there isn't any documentation of this. The interior is very good except for a seam on the drivers seat coming apart. Some of the chrome has pits but looks like it was chromed over the pits. There is some slop in the steering wheel just not sure if it's more than an inch. There was surface rust on the Jack and handle in the trunk so I'm not sure if the trunk leaked or just moisture. The convertible top is new but it doesn't seal tight against the trunk. I'm not sure what they fit like when they were new.  All that being said its a 283  4b and they want $57.200 for it. I'm not a mechanic but can do some things so I realize a professional may be needed.  Do you think this is a good deal and what is critical to look for? This car was never titled and had 1 owner
>>>>
>>>> Mike

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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When installing new drag link innards and tightening screw plugs on each end are these plugs fully tightened when you can slide cotter pin through holes while aligned with slot in plug?  4053 didn't pay attention when he disassembled drag link.  I  don't think that the plugs will tighten to the point cotter pin could be installed over face of plug regardless of slot position.   Thanks for being there.  DAVE. 
 

From:  Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Dave,
The best exploded view of the C-1 drag link assembly that I have found to answer your question is on page 29 of the Paragon Reproduction C-1 parts catalog.

The short spring & spacer are installed in the short end of the link that connects to the third arm. The 2 longer springs & spacers are installed in the longer end that connects to the steering gear pitman arm.

Make sure that the four bearing surface cups are fully seated to the third arm or pitman arm studs so there is full contact between the bearing surfaces an the studs spherical surfaces. Mis-alignment of one of the bearing surfaces  may account for why your rebuild won't assemble properly.

Good luck with your project,

Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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4053 is surprised to realize that all power systems in car are fed by a #12 gage wire with starter exception.  Without any current protection on this conductor how often have these wires burned up?  Does anyone know what the total current draw can reach with all systems operating?  Thanks, Dave.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  In all due respect I would highly recommend that you DO NOT purchase this 1962 Corvette unless you are absolutely stealing it. If the frame is that rusted out then so will all of the front and rear suspension parts as well as the rear leaf springs and sway bars.  You will have to do a basically complete  “body off” restoration which is extremely time consuming and very expensive if you have to sublet all the work out.  Buying a C1 or any Corvette in this condition is asking for a lot of trouble.

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I have a 56 corvette with a Muncie transmission that was incorrect for the year. I had the powerglide that came with the car rebuild. Turns out it is a passenger car powerglide with the corvette tailhousing. My question is do I have to use cooling lines or can I run it without the cooling lines to look correct because I know the corvette powerglides were air cooled. I appreciate your input.

Melody

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President Emeritus: No, your PG would be air cooled.

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I have a 1962, 327 cu in, 340hp 4 speed.  This is not a judgeable car but one that is often driven so performance and reliability are more important then originality.  I haven't done a tune-up in many years.  With new technological advances I'd like to know what spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, points, rotor and condenser I should use?  Is Pertronix recommended?  Also, is there a preferred supplier?

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:    Your Corvette with the 340 horsepower option came from the factory with dual ignition points, condenser and dual window distributor cap.  The spark plug wires were the radio suppression type so not to interfere with the radio, if so equipped.  This is all “old school” and is not advisable for a car that is not judged and is a driver. I have installed many Pertonixs products in my client’s cars.  Their latest drop in electronic modules are exceptional easy to install with no air gaps required.  They provide a very hot spark with multiple sparks and an adjustable rev limiter.  Now none of this is at all necessary with a driver installation but worth the price in my opinion.  You should install their recommended hotter coil as well.  Once you install these parts you will never have to do it again.  The Pertronixs part number for their electronic module  is PNX-71181 and their recommended coil part number is PNX-40011.  These parts are readily available from Summit Racing, phone number 800-230-3030.  Original AC spark plugs are no longer available and I use Autolite 85s. I use Standard Ignition parts for the rotor and distributor cap…the rotor is DR-311T and cap is DR-429  Your Corvette came with a dual window cap for adjusting the points which you will no longer need to do.  Corvette Central offers a very superior replacement spark plug wire set with a life time warranty and cut to fit, their number 301161, phone number 800-345-4122. It is not rocket science to install these ignition products and once completed you will never have to do it again. 

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Terry,
 

Almost any part is replaceable.

The trick is either having the correct nomenclature to find it in the various catalogs OR have a good picture of what you're looking for. Try the attached pictures from Paragon Reproductions catalog to see if you find it. There are lots more pics where these came from. 

Good luck in your search.
 

Bill Huffman, Pres.
 

Michigan Chapter SACC

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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SS

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The correct cab for you 62 340hp Corvette is a Carter AFB 3269S. They were used on 62 300 and 340HP engines with manual trans. I believe they were also used on 62 passenger cars with the 300 Hp 327 and manual transmission. Note that they also had a stamped date under the part #. Example......H 61 which indicates August 1961. This is the date on my 62 340HP Corvette which was built October 30, 1961.

I am not aware of any published torque spec for lug nuts. My feeling has always been REALLY TIGHT.
Chip Werstein

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  If you have an adjustable torque wrench 60 foot pounds should be more than enough.  Use increments starting at 20 foot pounds and increase to 40 and then 60 foot pounds using a “star” pattern from one lug nut to another so that each lug nut is tightened in three increments.

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I have a 1960 corvette with the auto transmission .Does anyone know where I can buy a new or used neutral switch assembly,I  need all the assembly? Or is there a conversion  aftermarket kit out there? I had the transmission completely rebuilt but missing these parts.

Thanks

Jeff

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Jeff,
Look for Corvette Central P/N 591055.
Regards,
Bill Huffman, Pres
Michigan Chapter SACC

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Please let me know the dimensions on a 1960 original front sway bar from center of eye to center of eye. Mine is a 13/16 bar and measures 34 ½” wanting to know if that is correct.

Thanks

Jeff

From: Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer:   Jeff, you have the correct sway bar. 

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Where can I find instructions for removing and reinstalling the radiator in my 1957 Corvette?  Thanks!

From: Michael Capozzio, Ohio Restorer:  Ron, the ST-12 service manual is a great source for for this but owning a ‘57 myself and doing C1 restoration for a living I can give you the quick breakdown. Drain radiator (of course). Remove top hose. Remove fan belt (to aid in removal of upper fan shroud). Removal of hood is not necessary but helps. You can simply remove the hood support and use a stick or similar item to prop open further then normal. Remove the bolts holding fan shroud to support. Remove shroud. Lower radiator hose clamp is tricky. It may or may not be necessary to unbolt and move the lower fan shroud shielding out of the way to get to the lower hose clamp. Remove the two front hood alignment blocks that are just above radiator tank. Now, there should be (not always as they are often not replaced) two lower radiator bolts that are accessible in the wheel house area behind the front tire. Once they are removed radiator should be able to be slid strait up. Best to have two people doing this to evenly lift it. Reinstall in reverse order. If the two lower bolts were missing replace them. They really are often missing. This is always a great time to replace thermostat too. At least a 180 degree. No 160. System needs the pressure build to properly cool. Hope this helps.
 

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From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor: 

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From:  Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter President: 

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Hi

 I have a 1957 Corvette in Venetian Red with a Beige interior. I was wondering what is the correct color of the trunk matt, red or black?

 Thanks, Bob  

From:  Michael Capozzio, Restorer in Ohio:  Normally the 56-57 trunk mat is red for red colored interior and black for beige colored interior. 

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I have a '59 Vette and the fuel gauge pegs to the right when the key is in the start position. I have confirmed that the ground is connected to the back of the gauge; where do I go from here? Is my sending unit toast? 
 

From: Michael Capozzio, Restorer in Ohio:  The back of the fuel gauge has 2 wires. The pink is 12 volts power. The brown is ground with variable resistance coming from the sending unit. Disconnect the brown from the fuel gauge and see if it goes to “E” with key on. Also, using a multimeter set to ohms check the resistance of the brown wire. It should go from basically 0 ohms empty tank to about 30 ohms full tank. Always best to pull sending unit from tank and check resistance as you move float. If you decide to replace sending unit be careful as cheaper units do not have correct resistance to make gauge read properly. Best solution is to rebuild original sending unit. If it checks out okay and you decide to rebuild gauge there are several reputable rebuilders out there. 

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Keith

I had a similar situation with one of my cars. Turns out the transmission had locked it self in 2 gears.  I put the shifter in neutral and got under the car to check the position of the 3 levers on the trans. Reverse and 1-2 levers were in neutral. 3-4 lever was slightly engaged in 3rd. I moved it a very small distance and it clicked into neutral. Problem solved but i dont know what caused it in the first place.

Chip Werstein

From: Michael Capozzio, Ohio:  Try manually putting shift arms in transmission into neutral. If it’s stuck in gear it will go into reverse but will bind and not move. If the arms won’t go into reverse it may have a broken shift fork. 

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Hello !

Previous member has a question about making a strong repair to the
chrome door post on a '62.  Previous owner was using the post as a
handle to close the door and has resulted in a week post attachment. 
What is the best way to reattach the post so that it will become an
integral part of the door again.  We won't be using the post as a
handle, but there is considerable mechanical advantage acting on the
attachment point.

Thanks,

Gary
 

From:  Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Corvette central offers door post repair. The tabs  are broken because the windshield was not shimmed properly at the rear of the post. Consult aim for more info.
Chip Werstein

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From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I ordered a new fuel pump from paragon and the fittings are 180 degrees opposite my original pump.  Are there different configurations for other fuel supply systems?  I have 1 4bbl.  My car is a 61 and engine is a 64 327 but fuel line on frame is in original location I believe.

Dave

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter advisor: 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter advisor:  Dave, Paragon sells a reproduction 4656 pump that is spot on. It is made here in los angeles. They re cast the orignal parts and even stamp 4656 on the flange. I have purchased several over the years and never had a problem.
Chip Werstein

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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1. Paint Color:  Am I correct that the interior of the trunk area and spare tire well are to be painted the same color as the exterior of the car?
2. Spare Tire Well:  My car happened to come with one Firestone Bias Ply White Wall Tire that does not fit into the well without the plywood top ( I do have the original top) sitting into the depression of the rim of the well.  (the four driving tires have been changed to radials).  I suspect that the bias ply tire is not an original relic but rather a later reproduction that appears to fat for the height of the well.  My question is, did the original tires fit into the well such that the original plywood cover fits neatly into the rim of the well? 
3. Jack, handle & tire iron:  Alas, the car did not come with its original jack, handle and tire iron and after being frustrated in my search for originals at various venues, I would like to buy a quality reproduction jack, handle and tire iron and would like your recommendation on the right source for such parts.

 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

Joe:  If you plan to have your car judged by NCRS, you should obtain a copy of their Judging Guide and follow the details exactly.  There are a lot of nit-picky things they want to see.  So I will assume that you want a correct "driver" car.  In answer to your questions:

 

1.  The entire trunk area including the area behind the cardboard should be painted Irmine White.  The entire convertible top area should be painted Irmine White, including behind the seats.  I have one 60 and two 62's.  The trunk cardboard and trunk mat should match the interior color.

 

2.  All the wheels, including the spare, should be painted Irmine white.  If you have the optional 5.5 inch wheels, they should be painted black.  Today's reproduction 6.70x15 bias ply tires are wider than 6.7 inches and won't fit in the tire well.  The original 6.70x15 tires fit in the well perfectly.  Both my 62's have original 6.70x15 spare tires, and they fit in the well perfectly.  If you want your reproduction 6/70x15 tire to fit, let the air out and carry a portable electric tire pump in the car.  What I did on my 60, I bought a 6.40x15 tire for the spare.  It fits perfectly.

 

3.  Corvette Central is my favorite source for reproduction items.  However the reproduction scissors jack they sell is not considered to be safe to use, and it is very expensive.  It just looks correct.  This same jack is in my 60, and when I got the car, it was literally in pieces.  One of my 62's had nothing.  I bought a quality scissors jack from Pep Boys and modified the handle to fit in the slot in the trunk floor.  I got a lug wrench at a salvage yard.  This was 40 years ago.

 

Larry Pearson

 

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I just put on new rear shock on my 62 Vette because I found the old ones were bad. The suspension was bottoming out hitting the bumper stops hard.  After the shocks it's better but still bottoms out when I hit dip in the road.  Is this normal for these cars or what do you suggest.

From:  Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Gary if your leaf springs are original then I surmise that they are worn out and sagging.  You will need to have them removed and taken to a reliable leaf spring rebuilder.  Fellow contributor, Chip Werstein, can give you the original height specifications as these dimensions are very critical to get it right the first time. Replace all the rubber bushings and lubricate them in the shackles.  Good luck with your project as many C1 owners have crossed this bridge before and it is not Rocket Science to make this repair as the hardest part is finding somebody in your area who knows what they are doing.

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I have a 1956 corvette. My question is what kind of oil (and how much) do I put in the oil tube attached to the distributor and also I see oil caps on the generator. Does it need oil also? Thanks for you time.
 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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Fellow members, 

 I’m going to attempt to reseal my washer pump.  Having had enough experience, I do not want to attempt this without a exploded drawing of a Trico vacuum pump. The factory manuals Chevrolet and Corvette supplements Do not touch on this procedure.  The service kit I purchased from  C.C. did not have this needed diagram. Would any of you be willing to share this information with the Corvette world and myself.  

Paul from Michigan
1960 2x4 270 hp

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Capital Auto Restoration used to rebuild and restore C1 washer pumps, 301-948-9481….very expensive but they are not easy to do….good luck with this project

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President: 

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I bought a car pretty much in pieces .Wondering what the piece was on each end of the grill .Was it fiberglass or metal was it paint car color or black? Also I am 6’4 any ideas to get little more room?

Thanks

Jeff

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Jeff,
 

For the answer(s) to your first question, you need an 1960 Assembly Manual (Mid-America sells a good one), a C-1 parts catalog from Paragon Reproductios or Corvette Central to really see all the parts your car is missing.

On 1958-1962 Corvettes frontal area on either side of the grill opening is one fiberglass panel that entends from one wheel opening to the other. The intended function of the recessed areas on both sides is to provide an air inlet to cool the heavy duty racing brake (called "Big Brake") RPO.  Each side has an upper & lower diecast & chromed eyebrow trim bezel above & below the bumper. Since Big Brakes are a rare option, most owners paint the recessed area black.
 

Your second question is tougher.

Although some big guys own, drive & love them, the early Corvettes were designed for 5' 9" - 165lb people or very limber contortionists to be able to ingress/egress.    Depending on your difficulty here are some options: 15 inch steering wheel vs stock 17 inch, remove some seat padding, replace steering column with Ididit tilt column OR just drive it with the top down only.
 

Good luck with your project,
 

Bill Huffman, Pres.
 

Michigan Chapter SACC

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  In my opinion it is not worth the money unless you were going to start drag racing with drag slicks.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

**********

I have a 1959 corvette 283 carb 4 speed

I want to take out the speedometer to have it fixed

Paul
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

Paul,

This is a pretty straight forward project but is not as easy as may seem to someone who has never done this before. You will need to completely remove the instrument housing containing all the gauges, the speedometer housing, the tachometer housing, the ignition switch, the headlight switch, the wiper transmission cable and the cigarette lighter.  The speedometer and tachometer cables will have to disconnected, the headlight switch harness, the ignition harness and the oil pressure line.  The main wiring harness connections to the gauges will all have to be disconnected as well as the instrument housing light bulbs.  I suggest that you remove the steering wheel in order to gain better access to all of the disconnections of the instrument housing.  Mark or write down all of the main wiring harness to instrument gauges connections for proper reassembly.  Patience is a virtue and good luck with this project.

**********

I bought a 1960 corvette with engine and transmission removed. Getting ready to install the engine .It appears that the driver side engine mount frame bracket is higher than the one on the passenger side? Is this correct or should they be level from one side to the other? Are they adjustable or should I buy a replacement.Also I thought I would check all the steering and the 3 arm raises and lowers slightly when turning the wheel. Car has been sitting for along time so I thought I would replace the bearing and the seal and thoughts?

Thanks

Jeff

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Jeff,
 

I've got more questions than answers here and a few red flags.
 

The two motor bracket mounting surfaces should be approximately level with the ground.

New brackets are available, but if you bought them, unless one is noticeably deformed I suspect they will be identical to what you have. The 3rd arm articulation makes me suspect uncorrected front end accident damage to either the frame or to the steering/suspension components. Checking the fender opening to tire height from left to right might give you a clue as to how much distortion you're dealing with. While you are replacing the 3rd arm bearing & seal, there are other components that contribute to steering instability. Wheel bearings, king pins, worn/poorly adjusted steering gear, drag link lube & adjustment and tie rod ends all need to be checked/lubed/replaced.

Good luck with your project,
 

Bill Huffman, Pres.
 

Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

Would like to set up fronts to match rears.  Any ideas?  Thanks, Dave
 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I would like to know if I can lift car at a central point, front or back, and lift both wheels at the same time.   Pumpkin?  Thanks,  Dave

From Bill Huffman: 

Dave,
 

I have used a floor jack to raise my C-1s using a center lift point for many years.  I lift the front under the steering front cross member using a 16 inch long 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 cross-ways to distribute the load.

DO NOT USE THE THIRD ARM BEARING AS A SUPPORT. It is nodular cast iron & WILL break.

The rear can be lifted using the differential housing. However, here I also use a short 2 x 4 to distribute the load & not damage the paint.

The floor jack is for lifting only.

Put the jack stands under the car then remove the floor jack to relieve stress on the car frame & chassis.

Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

**********

I would like to lift both wheels front or rear safely to place jack stands.  I don't want to twist body if possible. When lifted what is best location to set stands?  Thanks, Dave
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The strongest and safest place to place your jack stands would be directly onto the main frame trusses that run front to rear.  Place the front stands just before the frame truss starts to turn inward at the engine firewall.  The rear stands should be placed at where the rear spring axles met the rear frame truss.  The stands should be directly across from each other. This arrangement will give total support to the body and attached suspensions parts.

**********

Hello to all,

I have a 1962 corvette and am thinking about getting the windshield washer pump going again.  I have two small rubber hoses coming out of the firewall up high on the passenger side and also have the washer fluid tank and pump.  I've been looking for a diagram to show me what parts are missing and how and where they go together.

What I do find is a diagram showing the windshield washer unit over on the drivers side rather than the passenger side by the battery, but I cannot find a picture showing where everything bolts up.

I would be grateful if you can point me to a picture showing how the unit goes together in the chassis on the passenger side.  (brackets and where they mount etc.)

Any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks again,
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  If your 62 Corvette has any preexisting windshield washer parts and hoses on the passenger side it would indicate that your Corvette was fuel injected.  Al 1958-1962 fuel injected Corvettes had the windshield washer system installed on the passenger side because with the fuel injection air cleaner being mounted on the driver’s side it would have made it too difficult to service the washer bottle tank. Fuel injected Corvettes had a vacuum reserve tank bolted to a special nut plate on the inner fender as well as a special aluminum heat shield that was held on the inner fender near the battery.  This shield was held to the inner fender by three screws.  Purchase a 1962  Corvette assembly manual from either Paragon or Corvette Central and there is a chapter on the fuel injection option which gives a very detailed diagram of how all the windshield washer parts were located.  Good luck with your project.

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From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President: 

From Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

John,
 

Having several 1960 Corvette owners in our chapter, in comparing our cars, we found that the switch in VIN location occurred between 28 Oct 1959 & 28 Dec 1959. The change was between VIN #s 1100 & 1900. Stamping the VIN # on the engine stamp pad occurred later, in early 1960.
 

Bill Huffman, Pres.
 

Michigan Chapter SACC

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what GM wheels interchange with a stock 59 corvette wheel 15 / 5?  it is said to be a 49 chevy sedan is this true?

From:  Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

Original 1959 Corvette 15 X 5 wheels had the dogbone weld slot, not the riveted wheels that most swap meet vendors try to sell you. Also, after 60 years, most original rims will have worn, elongated or enlarged lug nut holes that are downright dangerous. If you have a driver as opposed to a matching numbers museum piece, it is far easier & less expensive to buy a new 4 wheel set from Corvette Central than it is to find a complete set of good original wheels.  https://www.corvettecentral.com/c1-53-62/wheels/hubcap-wheel/56-62-15-x-5-new-rim-wheel-welded-set-of-4-641143?returnurl=%2fc1-53-62%2fwheels%2fhubcap-wheel%2f 
 

Good luck with your project,
 

Bill Huffman, Pres.
 

Michigan Chapter SACC

From Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I am not an experienced mechanic and have created a monster.  I have
 totally disassembled my '60 over the past ten years.  In that process I
 have removed the rear axles several years ago and am finally getting
back into reassembling the car.

 For the life of me I cannot find any detailed drawing, including the
 "official manuals" that shows how the axles fit into the differential
 and what holds them in.  I am now 72 and have a hard time remembering
 much of anything, so I do not remember how I took them apart.
 
 Can someone help describe the process of reassembling the axles to the
 differential?

 Also, I have already installed the drive shaft back into the drive
 train.  Do I need to remove the drive shaft and the front of the
 differential to be able to see into the differential to install the axles?

 Thank you
 
 Tom

From: Bill Huffman: Michigan Chapter President:Tom,

Almost any service question regarding your 1960 can be answered by the 1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12. Below is Section 4, Rear Suspension & Driveline.  Section 4, Rear Suspension & Driveline would be of help for you.

Good luck with your project,
Bill Huffman, Pres.
Michigan Chapter SACC

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Hello:

I am looking for advice on how to rebuild my 1961 Corvette speedometer.  (VIN No. 10867S102739)

 The speedometer failed last year and when I removed the unit I found that a 3/8” piece of the tip of the old speedo cable (red plastic square shaped piece) had broken off in the back of the connection port.  I was able to remove this and then reinstalled the speedometer with a new cable from Corvette Central.  Unfortunately it appears that there is a bigger issue.  The speedo now moves but erratically and with a distressing ticking noise coming from the speedometer itself.  I am thinking now that the internal issue is what caused the old cable end to break off in the unit. 

 I am pretty handy and was wondering if there is any literature no how to rebuild the speedometer or if not, can you recommend a reputable rebuilder.  Thanks in advance for your help,

 Joe

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President: 

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

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********

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Hi Bruce,

I have a quick question for you. I am replacing the radiator hoses on
our 1954 Corvette. I'm looking to find out the correct hose clamps. Are
they spring clamps or tower clamps?

Also, what are your thoughts about converting to a 12 volt system?


Thanks,

Virgil

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

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From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Sam:  It sounds like your car got rear-ended.  You should be able to buy everything you need from Corvette Central.  They have an online catalogue at www.corvettecentral.com, or you can call them at 800.345.3342.  I have a hard copy of their catalog from 2010, and all your needs seem to be there, and I assume that they still are.  Another good source is Paragon Reproductions, Inc., 800.882.4688, www.corvette-paragon.com.  This is from their 2004 catalog.

 

Larry Pearson

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Looking for help identifying the block drains for cooling system flush
on my 1959 283.  Pics attached.  Which are the drain plugs - front or
back?  Also, any tips on accessing the lower radiator hose which seems
to require removal of the fan cowling.

Thanks!

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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From: Larry Pearson,, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Mike,

Your original engine block had a provision for a road draft tube to draw clean air through the oil filler cap although only hydraulic cam engines had this type of oil filler cap. Solid lifter engines did not have an oil filler cap that would breath fresh air into the crankcase.  In order for your replacement engine to vent itself you would need to add a PCV valve somewhere on one of the valve covers which would require some modification along with an oil filler cap that would permit fresh air into the engine.  These oil filler breather caps are available from various after market Corvette parts suppliers. In order to preserve the original look of your valve covers would require extensive modifications of the replacement engine block to provide a PCV valve that first appeared in 1961/1962 RPO 242 PCV valve applications. After market engine blocks that do not have the road draft tube provision are a crap shoot but can be made to work if you are willing to modify and add a PCV valve to one of your original valve covers.

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

Am rebuilding 1960 and cannot find the castle nut that holds pinion yoke
onto the pinion shaft.  Tried buying a 7/8" fine thread nut at machine
shop, but the threads seemed too coarse. Anybody no what the nut size is
(thread count) and where I can get one?

Thanks,

Tom

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

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hi,   i have a 62 corvette and the tach only goes up to about 12 to 1500 rpms, i have checked the cable connections and all seems fine.     any thoughts besides replacing the tach  ?
i really do not want to pull out the cluster  !!       thanks in advance for any thoughts            charles
 

From:  Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  The tachometer in your Corvette operates on a bunch of spinning magnets that register RPM.  Your tachometer is history and needs to be rebuilt by a reputable rebuilder.  On the West Coast many people rely on Valley Vettes, Mike Poirer in San Diego, 619-461-1952.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter advisor: 

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advsor: 

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Should my powerglide transmission on my 1960 Corvette start in "both" neutral and park or in "either" neutral or park. It presently will only start in park. Thanks, Wayne

From: Joe LeMay, SoCal Chapter: 

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I have a 1962. My question is about the tach gauge. There is a low RPM and a High RPM gauge. Are these tach gauges related to the HP? What determines if a low or high is correct for my car?

Best regards / Mit freundlichen Grüssen / un saludo / 诚挚问候

Ron

From Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

RPM red line is directly related to engine horsepower.  The 250 and 300 horsepower cars are equipped with a hydraulic camshafts and use the low RPM red line tachometer.  The 340 and 360 horsepower engines had solid lifter camshafts and came with the high RPM red line tachometer.

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I recently saw a C1 vette with cove moldings and inserts like a 61 but the driver told me it was a 62 vette. Was the trim an option or could it have been added to the 62 by the owner? Thanks

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:  Stainless cove separation trim was not available, from the factory on a 62 Corvette.  Of course, once it left the factory, the owner could have done what they wanted...

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Only added to the car by an owner as GM did very few COPO cars in the day as only the very high ups in the corporate ladder could get a one off special Corvette from St. Louis. Maybe the owner was clueless as to what year he had!

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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Trying to install antenna cable that runs inside the rocker , what the best way to get the cable from the trunk to the dash? Thanks
 

From: Bruce Fuhrman. SACC Secretary:  The method of placing the cable is not available in any books I have, however is easy to place under the carpet and behind the seat.
Bruce Fuhrman

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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My question is I would like to know detail specifications on the 1958 convertible top weather stripping,fastening for it,screw type and size of all retainers,and procedures for adjusting the top to the body and the windshield Thanks

From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

For help understanding the 1958 Corvette Convertible top mechanism and installation, you need to refer to the official Chevrolet Shop Manual for all C1 Corvettes, Corvette Servicing Guide, Publication ST-12.  This publication can be obtained from most of the Corvette Parts Suppliers, and is a “must have” for C1 owners.  The information you need is found in Section 1, BODY, pages 1-31 through 1-34.  It is not complete, and I do not know any source to go to for all the small details.  These tops are not easy to install and I suggest that you go to an experienced upholstery shop to have the work done.  It is virtually impossible using words to explain how to install one of these tops.  Al Knoch sells videos that teach you how to install these tops.  He also offers a top installation service at Meets he attends.  Corvette Central sells all the weatherstripping and hardware you will need, and their catalog illustrations will help you figure out what you need and where it goes.

The original weather stripping used on the 1956 through 1958 Corvettes was cloth covered with molded in mounting studs and steel reinforcements, and has been discontinued since 1959.  You have to use the 1959 through 1962 style weather stripping and attaching hardware illustrated in figure 79 on page 1-74.  Each of the six rubber weather strips on the side frames are attached using black-painted steel retainer strips and #8-32 round-head Phillips screws and special weld nuts as shown in figure 79.  There is also a header weather stripping that installs with its own metal retainer and special screws and the rear deck bow weather strip, which is not illustrated.  The header and rear deck bow weatherstrips don’t get installed until after the top fabric is installed to them.  The rear deck bow weather strip attaches with screws and staples.  There are also two (left and right) short weatherstrips that bridge the gap between the top frame and the rear deck bow.  These attach with screws and 3M weatherstrip adhesive, and are installed after the top fabric is in place.

Before attempting to install the top frame, every part of it must be painted and properly shaped (not bent).  The frame parts are painted semigloss black and the header is gloss black.  There are tacking strips (also called trim sticks) in the header, rear window bow and deck lid bow which must be in serviceable condition before the top fabric can be installed.  Tacking strips are petroleum impregnated (to make them waterproof) heavy cardboard strips that accept staples or tacks to hold the top fabric to these bows.  They usually need replacing or repair.  All pivot points must be lubricated with grease or 30w oil so they move freely.

To install the top frame to the car body, first install the side weatherstrips to the top frame using the metal retainers and special weld nuts on the inside, as shown in Figure 79.  Install the top frame to the car body a using the hardware shown in Figure 71 and adjust the frame up and down and back and forth until it fits the side windows perfectly when the windows are all the way up.  The side frames attach to the front header using slotted holes to assist in making the adjustments.  The door window stops must be properly adjusted so that the side windows go up the proper amount.  Not too high or too low.  If you have a hard top, use that to adjust the window stops so that the side windows go up the proper amount.  The linkage that goes up to the center pivot point on the side frames us used to raise the pivot point so it follows the shape of the side window frames.  That is all it does.  Do not proceed with the top fabric installation until the top frame fits the side windows as perfectly as possible.  Things will only get worse once the top fabric is installed.

I hope this information gets you moving in the right direction.  Get the Al Knoch video if you want to attempt to do the top installation yourself.

Larry Pearson

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1960 vette, rear leaf spring. I am replacing both. the front shackle, is that large bolt pressed in, it's threaded on one end only. how do you get that out of the schackle, hammer??

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advsor: 

Charlie,

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Hello SACC Tech

        Im not a member,thought I would still ask.

I have a new press molded jig built front end for 62 corvette,I asked the Corvette Image this a.m  they do not drill because not everyone wants them.

The holes for top fender S.S were not drilled,which has not been to hard to do.  But the hard part ! has been the CORVETTE script and emblem above.

 Is there a Reliable template out there ?  This is difficult to do straight at correct location.  Help, car is in paint shop now.

Thanks

walt
 

From Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

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I have a 1958 fuel injected 250 HP corvette, that has been rebuilt from the ground up. We are having difficulty with the full injection unit. It has been rebuilt by known specialists (!) , It stars cold easily but when it warm up it stalls and won’t start.? Where do we start?? Thanks Ken B in Vancouver
 

From:  Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Well join the crowd with FI cars that won't/don't run in the heat.  The problem is todays 10% gasohol gasoline which boils and then percolates at 40 degrees less than pre gasohol fuel did.  The copper spider lines of FI cars are excellent of transferring engine heat and causing the fuel to percolate.  If under hood engine temperatures reach or exceed 180 degrees you will consistently have this problem and there are no known easy cures. Not sure if Canada has gasohol but I am sure it does as this problem is rampant in the Southwestern United States.  Racing fuel is an option but is crazy expensive and in California is illegal to use on surface streets and highways.  I tell my customers to just "park it" if the ambient outside temperature exceeds 90 degrees as there is no solution to this problem.

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From:  Bruce Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advsor: 

Consult you ST 12 Corvette shop manual......page 9-3.

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1962, is the license plate bracket, bumper reinforcement, painted black or body color? Thanks for your help.. Rear bumper 

From:  Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Semi gloss black

Chip Werstein

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I can't figure out how the clips go for the chrome on the glove box, 1956 Corvette.
-William

From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

The aluminum trim clips (Part # 14818) for the Glove Box Door are round on two opposite corners and square on the other two corners

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need some help locating choke connector rods for my 54. 115-221 is part number in old tech manuals. also my wiper motor is original and needs rebuilt, is there a kit to do this, or someone who rebuilds.

Thanks very much,

Mike

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

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I need more help?

Again I have Two 1962 Corvette .

One has steering column About 47 inches long.

The other column 45 inches long.

Can you please tell me witch one is correct?

THANK YOU

Sthua

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Sthua,

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What is the best way to adjust the steering box on a 1959 corvette it has to much play in steering wheel thanks for any help
 New member Richard

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

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Will a 61 speedometer fit a 58 Corvette

From:  Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

The 61 speedo will bolt right in to the 58 but I think numbers on the face and the pointer are slightly different. 

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

I am experiencing a similar problem on my 62 340 hp car. All parts and linkage operate freely, but when cold the choke wont close and as a result the fast idle won't set either. Purely by accident, I left the three screws which hold the choke cover to the housing somewhat loose and the choke  began to work perfectly. I am now trying to find the right "tightness" for those screws. I may attempt to put a 2nd gasket between the choke cover and housing. My problem isn't solved yet, but I think I'm getting close. 

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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Gil
 

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

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Hi
I have a 1962 Corvette just bought.
I found after I started Driving it, Bad Vibration in drive train.
I put it on a lift and found that some body shimmed the shifter to fit
through floor hole.
They also Shimmed one side of trans Mount , Transmission tail touching X
Frame.
Bought new trans Mount , Installed Mount & took 15 washer out so
shifter  bolted up were it should .
Transmission Mount would not bolt in right, so I look into motor
mounting found by shimming up right side 3/4 inch
transmission moved into alignment . So I pulled Rad , Fan , Hoses out of
the way found Engine Tower Motor Mounts
Look uneven  R/S tower angled down and lower than L/S tower.
Looks like engine needs to come Forward 1/2 Inch.
Can you help me ? I need the Spec for front frame rails  and Engine
Tower Motor Mount?
Any help would be Appreciated
THANK YOU
Sthua

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

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Hi, I would like info on becoming a member.  Question:  1962 .  Is there a compression connection in the manifold?
Also, I have a small exhaust leak. 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

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Any way to get the side mirror GLASS out of the housing? Flopping around. Guessing there is some kind of mech. device in there that needs something done to. Would love to put a Convex in place but so far no luck finding one that's the 4,1/4 dia.

Barry

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I have a 62 vette with brake shoes. The front end was completely rebuilt 4 years ago which included brakes and bearings as well. Yesterday I applied the brakes at a speed of about 40 mph and suddenly the steering wheel began to shimmy. The shimmy was very noticeable. Never occurred before. Drove home and parked it. I feel it is unsafe to drive.
Can you give me some advice on this unusual behavior what most likely where to begin looking.

Many thanks
Darrell
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Advisor:  The brake shoes and or drums have become glazed or contaminated by oil or grease and erratic braking is causing the steering wheel to "shimmy".  Fixing this problem is not rocket science as you must examine the brake shoes and drums for these problems.  Sometimes just cleaning and sanding will be enough to correct the problem but complete replacement may be the only solution.

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Larry is completely correct about the history of the factory transmission mounts prior to 1962.  The adaptor and spacers that he mentions will correctly adapt a Muncie transmission to a C1 Corvette as many others in the hobby have done this conversion.  When done you would think that Duntov and GM thought about of this conversion as it is so simple to do if you know what goes where.  I did it 25 years ago on my 1961.

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From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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1962 corvette, is the cowl vent screen painted body color, or black? 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 
Cowl vent screen is painted body color.

I realize that the top of the vent is painted body color, but the underside of my vent appears to have been painted a flat black. Including the screen. I see no trace of body color in this area. What is correct, all body color, or black and body color? Thanks, Dale Mullins 
 

From: Brad Bean, Solid Axle Corvette Club Vice President:  During an earlier repaint, someone may have painted the screen and underside black, so it would "disappear" when open. Or... bug hits chipped away at the original screen paint and it was easier/cheeper to take a spray can and paint it black. However, the correct/original color would have been the same as the car's exterior.

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Hi there . My name is Michael . I'm in Australia . I have a c1 corvette . I Ve completed a frame off restoration on my 61 corvette . I'm stumped with completing replacement  soft top . Try to download Al knocks video on replacing the canvas roof twice . Already spent 80 US dollars and don't have DVDs , I would be eternally grateful if someone could help with tech drawings or knowledge . Thank you
 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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Greetings All - I'm a new owner of a 1962 Corvette which has the
original Wonderbar radio that does not work.  I think this is not an
unusual situation, so I hope others may give me the benefit of their
experience on how to remove this radio and advice on getting it
repaired.  Thank you in advance for your assistance.  Jim

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

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Good afternoon. Although I am not yet a member of your organization, I would appreciate your help with an issue I am having in converting from the road draft tube. I have looked in the Adams restoration book and also found that NCRS concludes that the correct PVC valve for the 62 via the AIM is 5649561. The problem is that the part listed is not identified other than the number listed. A search on that number is that the valve is discontued. There is no history or superseded number. There is also no CV-xxx identifier. My car is a fairly late build (12916/14531) and the valve for 63 is cv-590. I would appreciate any information concerning the correct valve for my car. Thank you in advance.  Don

From: Doug Prince, SOCAL Chapter Advisor:  AC Delco no longer services the CV-590 PV valve.  It is available from Paragon Reproduction Parts as their part number 14824 and is stamped correctly and is black oxide in color like the originals were. You will also need their part number 4318 which is a road draft tube adaptor and their part number 542K adaptor bolt and gasket kit.  These parts were all part of RPO 242 California Emissions.
 

From Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

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Hello to everyone

I recently purchased a 1961 Corvette and just realized when I pull the hood release, the hood passenger side will not pop up. I’ve looked online for solutions without any success. Does anyone have any suggestions? I think the barrel lock on the cable slipped and now cannot pull the release arm.
 

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President: 

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We have a 59 frame that the "L" brackets (both top and bottom) that mount the engine supports bolt to, have been destroyed and we would like to find the exact location for placement of the new "L" bracket. We have been unable to this point to find reference material with specifications & measurements. Can someone help with some direction to acquire these specifications or patterns that will position the brackets properly.

Eye balling of the location from another built frame has proven difficult in being precise.
Thank you

Anthony
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

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I'm not a member yet but I could use your help. I have a '56 that  the rear wiring harness was stripped out. I need to know the path of the new harness through the body work into the rear. I don't find any appropriate holes.

Ken

1956 Corvette
 

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Ken, Order a reproduction factory assembly manual for your '56 from either Corvette Central or Mid America Motorworks.  It will show you how the wiring harness is routed.  They run about $25.00.  

Max

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From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

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I'm finding conflicting answers to the question, "Is the windshield wiper mounting plate supposed to be the bare metal finish, or painted semi gloss black"? I plan to have the car judged so need a NCRS correct response.
Thank you in advance.
Robert
 

From:  Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

The wiper transmission plate was installed prior to engine compartment black out. So it should be semi gloss black. Consult your ncrs judging manual for conformation.

Chip Werstein

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Robert:  The windshield wiper mounting plate was in place when the under hood blackout painting was done, and therefore the entire plate including the mounting hardware (the screw heads) got painted with the same semigloss black paint.  The wiper motor was mounted later and has no blackout paint on it.

Larry Pearson

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Hi  We have problem with our fuel injection on 1962  won’t run at stop lights.  We have had the fuel injection system rebuilt.  We are looking for someone in California who can really work on this system.  We have heard about a specialist in Hesperia California.  I cannot find anything on the web.  Do you know any specialists in fuel injections in California?  Any help is appreciated.  Kathy

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Kathy

Fuel cars hate today's gas. I don't drive mine unless it's a cool day. There is no fix for the problem except 100 plus octane leaded gas. The southern California expert is in Canoga park .......Doug Prince.......818 425 0679

Chip Werstein

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

Kathy,

Your fuel injection problem is not unique to anybody in SoCal where our summer temperatures reach 90 degree or more.  The problem is California gas is just terrible and  our summer blend makes everything worse. The fuel injection “spider lines” are only 40 thousands ID and are made from copper which is an excellent transfer of heat which causes the gasoline in them to boil and percolate.  Fuel injection cars with ambient under hood temperatures over 180 degrees will not idle or restart after engine shutoff.  I have been involved with rebuilding and restoring fuel injection units for over 35 years and I am currently on the technical list for the SoCal Chapter of Solid Axle Corvettes from our beginning.  Feel free to call me at 818-425-0679 for any suggestions that might help you but there is no easy fix for the problem of poor or no idle at stop lights. Rebuilding of your fuel injection unit will not solve your problem.

Your brief description of the problem you are having raises a lot of questions that need answers.  It won't run at stop lights.  Does this mean that the engine won't idle?  Not cold, not hot, not over 180 degrees, not ever?  With the correct aluminum radiator, 170 degree thermostat, fan clutch, fan shroud, fan, and timing, the engine should not run over 180 degrees.  A hot engine will cause all the problems with California's gasoline that have been described by the others.  Does it run just fine off idle?  The unit has been rebuilt, but did anyone properly adjust the idle fuel and idle speed screws on the Air Meter?  Was the proper idle speed set?  On FI engines it must be set around 850 rpm.  If it was adjusted much  below 800 rpm, the engine will die, because the high pressure pump located at the rear of the Fuel Meter cannot deliver sufficient fuel pressure for the engine to idle at low engine speeds.  If the pump is badly worn, the idle speed may have to be set higher than 900rpm.  There could be problems with clogged passageways in the Air Meter idle circuit. This happened to me.  Is the unit a true 1962 unit, or is it a collection of parts from various units?  The Rochester part numbers for the 1962 Corvette were 7017355 (very early), and 7017360 (most of the 62's).  The 1962 unit was the first unit to have a true choke on the air meter, and for that reason is considered to be, possibly, the best unit of all of them, including 63-65 units.  By 1962, Rochester had most of the bugs worked out of their Ramjet Fuel Injection system.  The 1962 Ramjet units usually work very well, even with the bad gas.  Mine does.

 To learn more about your fuel injection unit, you need to read pages 6M-1 through 6M-33 in Chevrolet's official shop manual for the solid axle Corvettes, Corvette Servicing Guide, publication ST-12.  This book is available as a reprint from all the Corvette parts suppliers.  The Fuel Injection section in 6M deals mostly with your 1962 unit.  Compare the pictures with what you have.

Larry Pearson

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how to replace a 1961 corvette speedometer housing. is there a bulkhead under the dash? I try  and it wont come out
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

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From: Bruce Fuhrman,SACC Secretary: 

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My 59 Corvette has the word ivory written in the trunk could you please tell me what that means?
Mark
 

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President:  Before these cars were painted, workers wrote the primary exterior color name inside the trunk, on the fiberglass wall separating the passenger compartment and trunk with a grease pencil.  This writing would have been painted over, but sometime the outline is still visible (if not removed during a restoration).  

89 Corvettes were painted "Classic Cream" for 1959 and only 5 were painted "special" colors. Although a layman might mistake the color name, it's doubtful an assembly workers would have made that error when writing the car's color name.

This is a long shot, but if written in the afore mentioned manner and location, it may merit some additional research and documentation.  If your car is one of the 5 "special color" Corvettes and was originally painted "Ivory" at the St. Louis, assembly plant, you may have a rare car.

From: Chip Werstein, Southern California Chapter Advisor: 

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From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

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From: Bruce Furhman, Sacc Secretary:

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Installing a package tray in a 62 corvette:

The tray has been installed incorrectly in my car, I have ordered the 19 piece install kit but I cannot see where the  “l-brackets hook” any help will be appreciated              thanks

Charles
 

From:  Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:   Charles:  The installation instructions for all the pieces you have are found in the 1962 Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual (1962 Corvette AIM), which is available from all the major Corvette Parts Suppliers.  This is a document that the Corvette designers prepared for the assembly plant to use to assemble the car and has been reproduced for Corvette restorers to use.  The information you need is found in Section B, sheet 12 "Tray-Instrument Panel".  I assume that all the holes are already drilled in your instrument panel.  If not, the job will be more difficult, because the AIM does not specify where to drill the holes in the instrument panel where two "L" brackets and three screws along the back of the tray attach to.  The AIM does not have written instructions on how to install the pieces.  The drawing just shows a "blowup" showing all the parts.  None of the installation screws thread directly into the instrument panel fiberglass.  Clip nuts or machine screws and nuts must be used.  Two "L" brackets are riveted to the tray.  If yours are not riveted to the tray and no rivets were supplied, you will have to use machine screws with with lock washers.  These two "L" brackets screw to two other "L" brackets that attach to the instrument panel on each side of the tray.  Of course, the tray must be painted to match the interior color.

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My 61 vette's horn will not blow. When I press on
 the horn button it tries to blow and stops. The generator
 shows total negative discharge until I remove my hand from
 the horn. Any help or suggestions on this matter is greatly
 appreciated.

Harold

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Tech Advisor:  Harold:  You don't say if this is a new problem that suddenly came up, or if the horns never worked.  So I will tell you how the horns are activated and how to troubleshoot the problem.

Your Corvette originally came with two horns that are mounted on the left and right side of the area in front of the radiator.  These horns consist of a high note and a low note horn.  The horns are marked where the sound comes out with a "H" for high note and a "L" for low note. The horns are mounted so that their outlets point toward the grille, not up or not down.   Does your car have both horns? You can see them from outside the car through the grille.   If not, you need to purchase one or both horns.  If you have skinny arms and small hands, reach in with the hood open and determine if the horns are securely attached to the car fiberglass.  If one or both are loosely attached, you need to tighten the 1/2 inch hex bolts attaching them.  The attaching hardware for each horn consists of a 1/2 inch hex bolt with a 5/16 inch coarse thread, an external star lock washer (to penetrate the black paint on the horn body and give the horn body a good ground connection), and a ground lug with a black wire on it.  All this threads into a steel nut plate that is rivited with two aluminum rivets to the inner fender fiberglass panel on the wheelwell side.  If you need to tighten or loosten these bolts, make sure that they are not rusted in place.  Examine them from the wheelwell side with a flashlight and spray the threads with WD 40 or something like it.  These bolts are grade 3 and it is easy to break them off if you use too much force.  Believe me, you do not want to break this bolt off!!!  Corvette Central sells replacement nut plates and attaching rivets, but it is very difficult to install the rivets with the inner fender in place.  Chevy riveted the nut plate in place on the inner fender before they bonded the inner fender to the car body.

The horns are activated by a Horn Relay, which is attached to the driver's side inner fender fiberglass, just behind the radiator header, with two Phillips head self tapping screws.  The original relays had a black painted cover, or a silvery cadmium plated cover.  Either cover version is embossed with the words"Delco Remy".  The Horn Relay has three wires connected to it using slotted head screws.  The terminals are marked "S", "B", and "H" (according to the wiring diagram).  I do not have a horn relay in front of me.  The "S" wire is a 20 gauge tan wire and it goes to the horn button inside the car.  The "B" wire is a 12 gauge red wire and goes to the car battery 12 volt supply.  The "H" wire is a 14 gauge black wire and connects to the push on terminals on both horns. (Remember:  the lower the wire size number, the bigger the wire is.)  This black wire applys 12 volts to both horns simultaneously to activate them.  When the horns are activated, the coils inside of them draw lots of current, and that is why the ammeter shows a severe discharge when the horns are activated.  When you depress the horn button inside the car, it applies a ground to the 20 gauge tan wire on the Horn Relay, causing the relay coil to energize and apply 12 volts to the horns.  If the horns don't blow, take a dc voltmeter and verify that the "B" terminal on the relay has 12 volts on it (it always has 12 volts on it, and if it doesn't, you have to fix it), and the "H" terminal has 12 volts on it when the relay is activated with the horn button.  If the voltage on the "H" terminal measures less than 12 volts, the contact inside the relay may be corroded and the relay is defective.  You can pry the tabs on the relay cover open and access the inside of the relay.  You may be able to file or sand the contact surfaces to remove the corrosion and restore the relay to proper operation.  If the activating coil is bad, you may be able to fix it or you will have to replace the Horn Relay.  You can activate the Horn Relay from under the hood by applying a ground from the engine block (the engine block on our Corvettes is "ground", not the car's frame) directly to the "S" terminal on the relay using a jumper wire.  If the horns work by applying a ground directly to the relay, but the horn button inside the car doesn't activate the relay, then the problem is inside the steering wheel hub or the wiring from the slip ring inside the hub to the relay via the tan wire to the relay.

If everything checks out ok to this point, then the problem is with the horns or the wiring going to the horns from the Horn Relay "H" terminal or the ground wire connected to each horn.  Check that both horns have a black ground wire connected to their mounting bolts and that the bolts are tight.  Each horn is powered with a push on terminal on the end of the horn wire.  Make sure that these connections to the horn terminals are pushed on all the way and are tight.  If everything checks out ok and the horns still don't work, then remove the wire from one of the horns and see if the other horn works.  If it doesn't, then that horn needs adjusting or rebuilding.  Disconnect the second horn and see if the other horn works.  Usually only one horn is defective, and you need to determine which one it is.  These horns have an adjusting screw on them.  You can use a 1/4 inch socket to adjust the screw.  This adjusting screw can be used to optimize the sound, or get the horn working if it doesn't work.  You should not have to turn the adjusting screw more than one turn in either direction to activate the horn.  Turning the screw excessively in a clockwise direction can damage the insides of the horn.  If one or both horns can't be made to work when mounted to the car, you will have to remove the defective horn(s) from the car.  Once outside the car, try to activate the inoperative horn by connecting it directly to a 12 volt car battery.  Connect the horn mounting bracket to the negative battery terminal (just push it against the terminal) and use a heavy duty (at least 14 gauge) jumper from the battery positive  to the horn terminal and see if you can adjust the horn to work.  If it still doesn't work, a rebuilding service is available through Corvette Central to rebuild your horn, or you can buy a service replacement horn.  These horns fail when water gets into the inner workings of the horn through a defective paper gasket that was used to seal the top and bottom pieces of the horn.  The horn consists of a top and bottom zinc die casting that is connected with a series of rivets through a paper gasket.  If the gasket fails, rain water gets inside the horn and rusts the electrical connections.  If you like to fix things, you can drill out the connecting rivets and try to clean up the rusted connections.  Re-attach things using aluminum rivets or screws and nuts with lock washers.  Use plenty of RTV sealant in place of the paper gasket.  I've done it!  Don't discard an inoperative original horn.  The core is valuable.

Larry Pearson

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HI GENTLEMAN , I HAVE A 1959 CORVETTE THAT
CAME WITH  THE OPTION HARD TOP ONLY, I NOW HAVE  BOUGHT  THE
CONVT  TOP BOW ASSY.  EXAMINATION OF WHERE THE CONVT BOW ASSY WOULD
MOUNT TO THE BODY,'' BEHIND THE  SEATS'' I DON'T SEE  THE MOUNTING
 BOLT HOLES, MY QUESTION IS, AT THE FACTORY BUILD, WERE THE BRACKETS MOLDED
IN THE FIBERGLASS, EVEN IF THE CAR CAME WITH THE HARDTOP ONLY
OPTION ?   THANK YOU  SAM, ACTON
CA.

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Purchase your self an assembly instruction manual for a '59 from either Corvette Central or Mid America Motor Works (about $25.00).  It will show you what metal brackets are missing that will allow you to mount your soft top.  Do you have the rear hold down clamps on your deck lid?  If not, you will need them as well.  Hardtops are held down with bolts.

Max Brockhouse SACC President

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

**********

Restoring my 62 corvette I have no pics of the internal parts of the doors
and where they go. Do you have pics of the doors or some kind of print?
Maybe you can show how to reinstall all the door parts with new felt and
rubber. Thanks Bob   
 

From: Max Brockhouse, SACC President:  Purchase one or both of these book/manual; Noland Adams' THE COMPLETE CORVETTE RESTORATION & TECHNICAL GUIDE-VOL.1 1953-1962 or a 1962 assembly instruction manual.  Nolands' book is out of print and the assembly manuals can be ordered from mail order companies such as Corvette Central or Mid-America.

Max Brockhouse SACC President E-mail: saccmb@hotmail.com

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Bob:  All the answers to your questions about anything to do with your 1962 Corvette are to be found in Chevrolet's official Corvette Service Manual:  "Corvette Servicing Guide", publication #ST-12.  This Service Manual is available as a reprint from all the major Corvette Parts Suppliers.  The Doors are covered in Section 1 BODY, pages 1-13 through 1-20.  Almost any parts that you need are available from Corvette Central.  More service parts are available today than were available from Chevrolet when your car was new.

Another source for information on how your 1962 was built can be found in the 1962 CORVETTE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTION MANUAL (AIM).  This manual is a reprint of a publication done by Corvette Engineering and consists of Engineering drawings showing the St Louis Assembly Plant how to build the car.  Information on the doors is found in Section F:  Side Doors, pages B53-B66.  

Larry Pearson

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Tail lights, brake lights, interior light, instrument lights not working.
The above mentioned lights all worked a few months ago, now not so. The rear blinkers work, (canceling switch no) and front parking lamps light.
I am targeting the main light switch, but just read about the issues caused by the turn signal switch.
Due to both brake light out, tail lights out, and insturment and interior lights out all at the same time, I believe the  light switch is culprit. (Fuses all ok)
All help or suggestions appreciated!  -Ed

From: Larry Pearson, Southern California Chapter:  Ed:  You don't say what year Corvette you have, and that might affect the recommendations I am making.  The front parking lights and rear tail lights have bulbs with two filiaments in them.  The smaller size filiament is for the running lights that come on when the headlight switch knob is pulled out to the first click and continue to operate when the knob is pulled completely out, activating the headlights in addition to the running lights.  The larger filiament in these bulbs are activated by the turn signal switch.  In addition, the brake light switch activates this larger filiament on the rear lights only.  If the turn signal is activated while applying the brakes, the flasher unit interrupts the brakelight filiament on one side only.  Therefore, if the brake lights don't work in the tail lights, the problem is either the brake light switch located under the dash just above the brake pedal arm, or the turn signal switch.  If the mechanical mechanism that returns the turn signal handle to the center position doesnt work properly, and wiggling it gets the brake lights to work, then the problem is in this mechanism, and you need to fix it.  Or the problem could be in the turn signal switch itself if the wiggling doesn't get the brake lights working.  The headlight switch is not involved with the brake lights or the turn signal light function.  

The turn signal switch can be taken apart by bending the four tabs up and carefully pulling it open.  There are two sliding contacts, each having a spring under them that push them up against metal contacts cast into the bakelite housing.  Don't lose the springs or the contacts, and note how the contacts are oriented.  Maybe the contact surfaces are oxadised and cleaning them will fix the problem.  Or the small springs may have overheated and partially collapsed, resulting in insufficient pressure to push the sliding contacts into a good connection.  Pulling on the springs to stretch them may restore their length and now things will work.  Replace any grease that you remove with a similar type grease to minimise contact wear.  Another possibility is bad solder joints where the colored wires connect to the switch terminals.  If the switch is bad and cannot be fixed, Corvette Central sells a replacement switch assembly.  When pushing the switch wires into the car connector, use long nose pliers to push them all the way in until they "click", or, in my experience, they will become disconnected.  Check that these connections are solid by gently pulling on them, because this might be the source of your problem.

The headlight switch controls the headlights, the parking lights in front, the running lights in the rear tail lamps, the instrument lights including the clock and radio, and the courtesy light(s)(these were optional before 1961 and may not be present in your car).  As explained above, pulling out the headlight control knob should result in the front and rear running lights being activated and the headlights being activated.  Turning this knob fully counterclockwise should activate the courtesy light(s)(if you have them).  Turning this knob clockwise should increase the brightness of the instrument lights to full bright when fully clockwise.  If the instrument lights brightness function is erratic, then the variable resistor (rheostat) windings on the front of the headlight switch need to be polished using fine sandpaper, along with the contacting surface on the wiper to remove corrosion that forms on these surfaces over time.  If the headlight switch functions don't work properly, the switch needs to be removed from the instrument housing for repair or replacement.  Disconnect the car battery before attempting to remove the headlight switch.  Remove the knob by pushing it all the way in and then depressing a spring loaded button on the bottom surface of the switch and then pulling the knob assembly all the way out of the switch.  Depressing the spring loaded button on the bottom of the switch releases the knob assembly from the switch.  With the knob removed from the switch, unscrew the special retaining nut using long nose pliers applied to the two notches.  Unplug the switch from the wiring harness plug and inspect the terminals on the top of the switch for evidence of overheating and loosness.  Maybe the big connector was not pushed all the way onto the terminals on top of the switch.  If nothing appears wrong, you can test the switch out of the instrument cluster and see if now it works.  If everything looks fine but the switch still doesn't work, you can pop it open and see if all the internal contacts look good.  Rebend the internal contacts as needed to make better contact and clean any corrosion off the contacts.  Polish the rheostat windings top surface and the contacting susrface of the wiper to improve its function.  If the switch still doesn't work, you will probably have to buy a new switch.  Again Corvette Central sells the switch.

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Hi
 SACC!
 Does a real, original NOS front bumper for 1958 have
 waves on the metal surface (under the chrome) of the
 bumper?I was told it should not have any waves,
 only the chrome process can be of poor quality (not show
 chrome).  A real NOS bumper is suppose to have a
 straight, flat surface.
 Also, can someone obtain a GM license, make a bumper
 and put a GM sticker on the bumper, calling it
 NOS?
 Aloha,
 Eric
 Corvette Clubs Hawaii State

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Eric.  An original "real" 1958-1960 and 1961-1962 front bumper has waves in it at the corner where the bumper turns to the side of the car.  This is because the bumper was constructed in two pieces and welded together at the corner, resulting in some waves where the welding was done, even after polishing.  Of course, a plating shop can grind all of these waves out and make the surface perfect.  GM could have made the surface perfect at the time of original manufacture, but this would take more labor and cost more money.  The original plating may also have streaks and roughness in parts of the bumper, especially on the lower side. It was not show quality.  Also, I have observed that GM service replacement bumpers were not finished as well as the original production bumpers installed at the time of manufacture of the car.  Service replacement bumpers sold by GM Parts Division were shipped in a corrugated cardboard box, not shipped bare with a sticker on
 them.  No GM logos or part numbers were stamped into the metal of original or GM service replacement bumpers, so, in my opinion, no license from GM would be needed to reproduce them.  These bumpers were discontinued by GM years ago, but are still being reproduced and sold by the Corvette parts suppliers.  I don't know if the current reproduction bumpers are being manufactured using the original GM tooling, but the quality is at least as good as the originals.  If you are planning to have NCRS judge your car, consult their Judging Manuals to see if deductions are being made for "over restoration"  for perfect bumpers.

**********

From Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

It's been my experience that paint blisters come from one of three sources: contaminants embedded in the fiberglass from stripper and other chemicals, solvent trapped due to not waiting long enough between coats of paint, or trapped moisture. The only solution is to take the paint back off and thoroughly clean the fiberglass and let it sit in the 100 degree Texas sun for about a week before applying primer, etc. (A body shop bake oven will cure it too)

**********

There is NO bolt hole in cranks nose
For installing tool
Please advise me to install new balancer
Thank you
Vic
 

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Victor:  On the low horsepower (hydraulic lifter engines), the harmonic balancer is a press fit on the crankshaft nose.  To install the replacement harmonic balancer, carefully orient it on the crankshaft keyway and hammer it on using a small sledge hammer and a block of soft metal, i.e. aluminum, to avoid damage to the front face of the new balancer.  If the engine is in the car, there isn't a lot of room to swing the hammer.  Whenever rebuilding a low horsepower engine it is advised to have the crankshaft drilled and tapped for a bolt to help in installing the balancer as well as keeping it from working its way off the crankshaft snout during use.  Also, if this is a fresh engine, be sure to install the spacer on the crankshaft before installing the balancer.  The spacer spaces the harmonic balancer out by the thickness of the front engine mount crossmember so the  generator and water pump belt will be in alignment.  Corvette Central illustrates the
 installation of this spacer in their catalog as part number 301120.  They also sell a harmonic balancer bolt kit.  I don't recall what the size of the bolt is.

Larry Pearson

**********

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

**********

From:  Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Absolutely not.

(Note from website editor - Those type of trunk releases are a more
recent innovation.)

**********

Hi, I just completed the restoration of  my 59 Corvette and have  a question. The top is
 installed and fits the body great. The problem is putting it into the storage well. It hits on the rear corners and one
 side is so bad that the well cover sits up a couple inches. I don't want to change the top frame adjustments which
 will make the frame not fit the side windows. So what should I do? I  push and push the top down,
 tried folding the material every way possible and it still sits high in that corner. Thanks, jack  

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

**********

How do I install seat cushions for a 1960 corvette on their frame. I don't see any way to attach the seat and back cushions to the frame. The only clip I see on the frame is I think for the seat back cushion but that clip needs something else to hold the seat back cushion on. . Are the cushions bolted on the frame, if so how. Would appreciate any advise, help, comments that would help me get over this hurdle in my restoration. Thanks.

Tom
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

**********

I need to replace all radiator hoses and there is very little room to get at the lower radiator hose clamp at the radiator. Do I need to remove the fan shroud to get at it? If not what is the trick?

Thanks in advance.

Joe

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor:  Although GM did provide an access notch in the lower two piece fan shroud it is practically impossible to loosen the lower hose and hose clamp with everything still in place.  You will save yourself much time and effort by removing the upper and lower fan shrouds to accomplish this task.  Good luck with this project.....

**********

put new  dash pad in 61corvette but I did not take  apart  need  diagram to help  put lites  in speedo  and  gauges back together   thanks 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

**********

I have the emergency brake light on my 61 vette and it has stopped working.  I have tried the wires and it appears to be something inside.  Is there anyone that repairs these since no one makes them new?

Harold

 

 
From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

Assuming all the wires and contacts are good:

There's only 3 things that could not be working in your emergency brake light: the flasher, bulb or switch.
 

If it's the flasher that's the problem, replace it with a regular turn signal flasher.

Which would require rewiring where it connects to the wires.
 

If it's the light itself, you can replace the bulb. If it's the switch on the emergency

brake handle make sure it's making contact. If not, you should be able to "adjust" (bend)

the spring to help it make better contact. (The switch is on the ground side of the circuit)

 

I had to work on my switch recently, cleaning it up and "adjusting" it.

I don't know anyone who could rebuild the light as such.

Bill Preston

 

**********

From: Bill Preston, Red River Chapter Advisor: 

Here are possible solutions we use for the problems caused by using ethanol fuel in our Rochester Fuel Injector and even in carburetors .

**********

Could you please tell me if I still need the ballast resistor if I replaced my duel point distributor with a mallery  eletronic?      Thanks,  Dan
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  You do not need to run the factory ballast resistor if you have gone to the Mallory electronic distributor BUT be sure you are running 12 volts to it from the ignition switch.

**********

How big of a cheater slick can i put in a stock wheel well of a stock 1962 corvette? thanks Bill

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Seven inches if the wheel off set is zero.

**********

I have a 61 vette and just ordered a new light switch.  In looking at my old switch the plastic piece that goes on the switch which holds all of the wires is broken and very damaged.  I desperately need one of these and have not been able to find one anywhere.  Do you have any suggestions on where I may find one of these?
-Harold
 

From: Bill Huffman, Michigan Chapter President: 

**********

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

Does someone have pictures on how the dash wiring is routed with the clips that hold the wiring harness?

-Athur

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor: 

**********

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

My name is George. I am a member of SACC and have been for many 
years. I own a
1960 Corvette with a soft top and a hardtop. Recently, I 
had a new soft top
installed and now I am having a great deal of 
problems having the top lowered
far enough into the rear compartment to 
close the top lid! It was always a
tight fit before but now I am nearly 
damaging the soft top when I try to close
the lid. Is there a way to get 
the soft top LOWER into the rear compartment to
be able to close the lid 
easily? I've owned this car for 30 years and there's
always some 
adjusting to do to fix a problem. My 1957 Chevy Convertible top
has an 
instruction sheet that tells you to fold-in, or pull-out, the top
cover, 
BETWEEN top bows, as you lower, then fold over the top on TOP of the

completely lowered top. This procedure compacts the whole top assembly 
so
the top will fit completely in the rear compartment. The 1960 
Corvette rear
compartment space is crazy-small, compared with the '57 
though. With the
latest soft tops, the vinyl material seems a bit more 
STIFF and would seem to
cause more difficulty in trying to FOLD-IN to 
gain more compactness!
Any
suggestions? I am 'game' to learn some new tricks!!
Thanks for anything you can
offer to help!
George

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  

**********

Dear Sirs:

 I sent in my membership application form and my Money Order in US funds on February 26^th and await my documentation.

 My question is: For my 1961 Corvette, what is the correct height from the ground to the top of the wheel wells in both front and back ?

 I want to ensure that the car is riding at the correct height.  I look forward to hearing from you.

Thanks and look forward to my membership.

 David R.
 

From: Doug Prince, SoCal Chapter Advisor:  Section O of the Corvette Servicing Guide ST-12 gives and excellent overview of the Corvette ride heights.  It can be ordered from Helm, Inc.

**********

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President: 

Ken,

Congratulations on the near completion of your 1962 Corvette.

Unlike today, in 1962 most new car warranties were for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever came first.  Therefore, it's possible but unlikely the warranty covered replacement of a '62 Corvette engine in 1964 (unless the car was not originally sold/titled until 1963).  Sorry, but unless you have documenting paperwork showing this, matching numbers will be almost impossible to substantiate.

Regarding the car's former owners... again unless you have documenting paperwork (copies of the different titles), the car's lineage is almost impossible to prove.  GM does not retain production or sales records this far back.  If you do not have these, the place to start would be to contact the person you purchased the car from and see if they retained any documentation.  If not and the car has been registered in the same state for some time, you can use the VIN # to apply for it's history from the state's Department of Transportation, Vehicle Registration Division.  If successful at finding former owner titles, and they have not moved since ownership, you can attempt to contact them, personally.

Paint is an easier question...

In 1962 the underside of the hood (along with entire engine compartment) were painted flat black "Duco" lacquer.

Starting with 1961, the Corvette's folding top and trunk compartments were painted the same as the "primary" exterior body color.  In 1960 and before, they were painted to match the car's interior.

Looking forward to having you join SACC and seeing your completed 1962!

Good Luck!

**********

I HAVE A 61 CORVETTE AND THE CONVERTIBLE TOP IS SAGGING IN THE MIDLE ON THE LEFT SIDE.   The right side is fine and no sagging.   I tried the adjustment on the left side behind the seat and it did not help any.   Suggestions appreciated.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor: 

**********

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Technical Advisor: 

**********

I have a 54 vette and I'm certain the powerglide in it is not the correct one. After purchasing several books for hundreds of dollars and months of research I cannot find the definitive answer as to the correct casting number for a 1954 corvette powerglide. Can you help me with this issue.

From: Bruce Fuhrman, SACC Secretary: 

**********

From: Ken Amrick, SACC Publications Editor:

**********

Hi,

 I’ve got a 1961 Corvette and want to know the correct color for painting the underside of my hood and trunk lid.

 thank you,

 Rich

From: Brad Bean, SACC Vice President: 

For the 1961 Corvette, the "hood pannel inside" was to have been painted "flat black Duco (lacquer)". 

 Starring with a small number of late '60 Corvettes and all '61 Corvettes... the entire trunk compartment, as well as underside of trunk lid was painted the same as the car's primary body color.

 This is verified on page 403 of Noland Adams' "The Complete Corvette Restoration & Technical Guide - Vol. 1; 1953 Through 1962"  If you are restoring a 1961 Corvette, this book is well worth the investment.

 Good luck!

 Brad Bean

**********

Hello,

I'm a new member! I've been waiting for my 1958 front bumpers to come back from the plating shop and I've been going thru the re-installation process and wondering about the bumper grommets. Are the mounting bolts for the bumpers tightened from the underside and then the rubber grommets punched thru the bracket window towards the front of the car? Does the smaller outside dimension of the gasket face the front of the car (to make it easier to push thru and position)? It seems simple but I've been giving this way too much thought...any help would be appreciated!

Thanks, Tom

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal, Chapter Advisor: 

**********

ANY INFO ON THIS SEAT BELT BUCKLE WE TALKED ABOUT A FEW WEEKS AGO?  IT'S OFF A 62--SERIAL # 20867S100540--TO REFRESH--MY QUESTION ,IS THIS BUCKLE WITH THE ROUND RECESS CUT INTO IT CORRECT BECAUSE ALL THE BUCKLE'S I'AM SEEING DO NOT HAVE THIS RECESS CUT,THEY ARE FLAT! -IF IT IS CORRECT  DOES A DECAL GO IN THAT RECESS?----THANKS,MIKE

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

Good Evening,

I am switching to 205 or 215 radial tires and would like to know what alignment specs. I should go by?

Thanks,

Bill

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor:

**********

DEAR SIRS, I JUST SENT IN MY MEMBERSHIP FORM AND CHECK LAST WEEK. COULD YOU TELL ME THE GM PART # THAT IS STAMPED ON THE 1962 REAR SHOCKS,  I’ AM GETTING PART # 3197611- IS THIS CORRECT? THANKS, MIKE
 

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Advisor: 

**********

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

Good Morning,

The rebound strap is missing on my 1961 corvette.  I am totally renovating this car.  What are the advantages of the rebound strap?  Also where can I find a diagram to properly reinstall this strap?  Thank you for your assistance.

Dave

From Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

Hello, I’m not a member but hope that you will answer my question.  I have a 59 corvette and understand that a fused wire should be added in at least one area, to the black 12 gauge wire at the solenoid.  If so, should the fused wire be 14 gauge?

 Is fused wire recommended at any other spots and are there other electrical  changes recommended to protect the wiring and car?

 Thanks

 Jerry

 P. S. looked through all of the questions on the website and was surprised that this topic was not mentioned or maybe I missed it.

From: Larry Pearson, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

I need to replace the hub bolts on My c-1, #100 rear hub.

GM part catalog, Group 5.12,  shows two numbers.
  53-60 (1st design) # 3829376
  60-65 (2nd design) # 3980406
Would the dimensions matter with stock wheels ?


         JOHN

From: Chip Werstein, SoCal Chapter Advisor: 

**********

**********

Changing rear shocks on a 1961 corvette. how do i find access to the upper shock mount nut to remove it? thanks for any info.

Dom

From: Chip Werstein, Socal Chapter Advisor: